GPT22 - Cochamó

Resupply Towns at Start, Finish and off Route

Resupply en Route

The regular hiking routes crosses in the first part a hiking area that has grown in popularity in recent years. The large majority of visitors starts at the diversion from the main road (P22-4.3) or the trail head (P22-10.4) and walks only to the camp site La Junta (P22-20.8) from where they make day hikes into the surrounding area. The increased flux of hikers forced the operators of the camp site to establish a reservation system but the high demand during the peak season makes it difficult to reserve a spot on camp site between mid-December and mid-March on short notice. The operators of the camp site state that they may deny access to the trail if no reservation for the camp site was made in advance. I have asked the operator of the camp site if long-distance hikers without a reservation will be denied access to the trail even if they arrive early enough on the trail head to walk past the camp site La Junta to camp on one of the meadows or at the refuge several kilometers past La Junta. I did not get any answer. You should read to this subject: http://www.cochamo.com/reservationscamping/

This restriction substantially complicates a southbound traverse on the regular hiking route. A southbound traverse of this section also complicates arranging the 3 boat transfers over the Río Puelo (twice) and Río Traidor (once). Therefore I suggest hiking most of this section northbound even if walking generally in southbound direction. To flip the 120 km from Balseo Primer Corral (P22-119.9) to Cochamó (P22-0.0) you need to take twice the bus-ferry-bus combination between Cochamó and Primer Corral.

There is at least one daily bus-ferry-bus connection from Puerto Montt to Primer Corral. The bus leaves Puerto Montt in the morning (07:45 main bus terminal) and travels via Puerto Varas, Ensenada, Ralun (P21-67.1), Cochamó (P22-0.0) and the village Río Puelo to Lago Tagua Tagua. You can take this bus either on section GPT21 in Ralun (to avoid 15 km of road walking from Ralun to Cochamó), at the start of section GPT22 in Cochamó or in Puerto Montt after resupplying and resting in this larger town. For the bus schedule best ask any of the settlers along the route or see: http://www.cochamo.com/bus/

Should you start in Puerto Montt purchase your bus ticket in advance at the main bus terminal since this bus sells out quickly during the main tourist season.

At the terminal station you can board a ferry to cross Lago Tagua Tagua and take the minibus that travels the road from Lago Tagua Tagua via Llanda Grande to the settlement Primer Corral. Make sure to leave this minibus before the terminal station at the boat transfer point Balseo Primer Corral (P22-119.9). If arriving with this minibus at Balseo Primer Corral you are more likely to get immediately a lift over Río Puelo to start your hike of section GPT22 at the left bank of Río Puelo (P22-119.6).

Just before the Río Traidor at the Hospedaje Nancy (near P22-96.2, Radio Call Name: Base Traidor) you may ask the settlers Doña Nancy and Don Chindo how to best get over Río Traidor (either with their motor boat or with a neighbors paddle boat). The third and last river crossing you may arrange with the settlers Paulina and Jovino (P22-85.6, Radio Call Name: La Junta). Alternatively you may ask before the settler Ricardo Garado (P22-91.4, Radio Call Name: Cerro Mesa) if he gets you over Río Puelo on a cable car.

Most settlers along the Río Puelo have a radio to communicate amongst them. So you may ask most settlers in advance if they are at home to verify if a river crossing can be arranged. And please, don’t expect these river crossings for free but ask for the price in advance and pay without bargaining. You can avoid this 3 boat transfers only by taking the less attractive optional road short cut via Llanada Grande (to the right of Río Puelo) instead of walking on the recommen¬ded regular hiking route (to the left of Río Puelo). If taking this road short cut you miss one of the highlights of the GPT that gets you in contact and conversation with these settlers.

After the third river crossing you will be left near the settlers home of Señora Oco (P22-84.0, Radio Call Name: El Maiten) from where you can follow scenic trails to Cochamó (P22-0.0) at the starting point of section GPT22. Several settlers live along this route.

You should spend your last night BEFORE reaching the camp site La Junta (P22-20.8) i.e. at the refuge (P22-30.6) or at one of the two nice meadows before (P22-25.7 or P22-24.3) where you may pitch your tent for one night.

You may asked any of the settlers along the route if they sell some basic homemade supplies like bread, eggs and vegetables and if you are lucky may even purchase some luxury items like meat and beer. In particular if you camp near a settlers home or pay for accommodation fresh bread may be prepared for the next morning.

Once back in Cochamó take the same bus-ferry-bus combination to get the point where you flipped the hiking direction and continue southbound. The remaining part of section GPT22 can be hiking in any direction without comparable restrictions.

If hiking this section in southbound direction I strongly recommend to make a reservation for the camp site La Junta in advance. Once you reach the home of Señora Oco (near P22-84.0, Radio Call Name: El Maiten) ask her if she can arrange a river crossing with one of the settler nearby. When you reach the settlers home of Ricardo Garado (P22-91.4, Radio Call Name: Cerro Mesa) ask how to best cross Río Traidor. He may call by radio Hospedaje Nancy (near P22-96.2, Radio Call Name: Base Traidor) that is located closer to Río Traidor. When you reach Balseo Primer Corral (P22-119.9) ask the settlers nearby when you may get lift over Río Puelo.

Regular Hiking Route

Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route

Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route (2019)

Comments to Regular Hiking Route

Regular Packrafting Route

Elevation Profile of Regular Packrafting Route

Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route (2019)

Comments to Regular Packrafting Route