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* '''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):

* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''</span>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

Overview

Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions

Season 2025/26

Season 2024/25

• 2025-MAR-31 to 2025-APR-5 / 7 days (5 days to Cerro Castillo) / Hiking / SOBO / OH 44-03 (EXP) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel

As we generally avoid crowded places where nature is commodified, we decided to skip Torres del Paine on our journey through Patagonia. This also saved us the hassle of dealing with the ferry over Lago Argentina and crossing the green border.

We chose variant 44-03, slightly adjusted it, and walked the remaining parts quickly along roads. We don’t regret this choice at all. The 44-03 variant between El Calafate and Cerro Castillo amazed us with its wilderness, encounters with local gauchos, and the raw beauty of the mountains and Patagonian steppe.

The main change we made compared to the route in the trackfiles was that we didn’t go from El Calafate via RP10, but via RP15 and then via a minor road, which is marked in OSM layers along the Centinela River. We found this route more reasonable due to the elevation and, more importantly, the reliable access to water along most of the way.

The second change was at the highest point of the route. We avoided the summit as marked in the TF and took a saddle at (-50.65588, -72.27388) instead due to snow and strong winds. However, we’re not sure if this is a generally good option—the descent on the other side was extremely steep.

The final change was at km 71.7, where we left the Rio Las Vizcachas valley earlier than planned to shorten the route and avoid wind-blown snow.

We mostly followed the TF after that, and upon reaching Cerro Castillo, we rushed via Route 9N to Puerto Natales due to a delay we had in Villa O’Higgins.

Border crossing was smooth—if no tourist bus is present, it’s quick.

• CHALLENGES

The first challenge was crossing the Centinela River. It was murky but only slightly above knee height during our crossing.

The first two river crossings are at: -50.47200, -72.40006 -50.47809, -72.38751

Then come five more fords, but all are avoidable with effort:

Two can be bypassed along the riverba when you reach the puesto at -50.55323, -72.25775.

Two others can be avoided at -50.56936, -72.26458, though some scrambling over rocks is needed.

The final ford at -50.59246, -72.27959 could be crossed by hopping over rocks.

Our greatest challenge was the snow and cold. We were there in early April during a cold front. Over 30 cm of snow fell, and in some ridge sections, snow reached up to our thighs. Nighttime temperatures dropped to -15°C. The mentioned puestos helped a lot, and we were prepared thanks to weather forecasts. Still, caution is essential.

Another challenge was managing water, which is unpredictable in the steppe. Some lakes are salty or dried up.

• BIVOUACKING

The first night we camped at -50.42271, -72.43058

At -50.47185, -72.39981 there’s a decent puesto. It’s small and has broken windows, but the interior is relatively clean.

When joining OH 44-03, there are two marked puestas. The first one [47.4/896] is a proper puesto, which we used on the second night and were really grateful for (the temperature was below zero, snowing, and very windy). It’s neat and clean without any signs of mouse activity.

The second one [47.7/913] is actually the home of Don Mario Diaz. He’s an 82-year-old gaucho who’s hard of hearing and blind in one eye. He pointed us to the other puesto and advised us that even though it’s locked with a chain, the chain can be unhooked and you can get inside.

We also newly discovered puesto La Piedra by a tributary of Rio Las Vizcachas at -50.72380, -72.19719. It’s really nice and helped us a lot.

The rest of the nights we camped in the steppe, where there are endless flat spots and the only trick is to time it well with water.

• WATER

The first water after leaving El Calafate was a small stream at -50.44387, -72.41996

Then, thanks to the Centinela and Rio Las Vizcachas rivers, there was no problem with water.

After crossing the mountains, there’s water at the following places: -50.85809, -72.16942 – small water stream -50.93075, -72.21313 – small water stream -51.01736, -72.21337 – Rio Vizcachas, the last major water source for a long stretch -51.2170090, -72.2210654 – small ditch in the middle of a meadow -51.35682, -72.43546 – first water after Cerro Castillo on road 9N -51.44878, -72.48552 – another creek crossed by the road

There’s no water at: -50.90985, -72.22708 – Laguna del Portugues is salty, and most other lakes in the steppe had already dried up during this time of year -51.25408, -72.22857 – Rio Don Guillermo had no water this time of year

• RESUPPLY

In El Calafate, we stocked up at La Anónima. There are many other stores and outdoor shops with gas canisters.

In Cerro Castillo, we recommend the minimarket El Pionero after the roundabout. Limited selection but has essentials including gas—cheaper than the souvenir shop near customs.

In Puerto Natales we resupplied in Unimarc.

• SETTLERS

-50.48683, -72.37275 – inhabited house with solar panels, didn’t meet anyone

-50.55323, -72.25775 – actively used puesto belonging to a next house

-50.55834, -72.25602 – small house with a kind owner who offered us a place to sleep (sadly forgot his name)

[47.7/913] – home of Don Mario Diaz (see bivouacking)

Season 2023/24

• From 11/12/2023 to 13/12/2023 // 3 days // hiking // NOBO // RR // Quentin Clavel

I passed the border, then continue in swamps, an other river to pass,if you go NOBO, better to take the track on the left of the river (you'll see on your GPS you have both possibilities) so you don't have to cross it later on.

Then follow the track (mix of wild animal track and old traces of car track at the end) lead you to the gravel road who go along the Lago roca.

Then, I follow this gravel to El Calafate. I wish I could walk on the way to puerta banderas, then discover the area between estancia Cristina and estancia helsingfors. But the NP didn't allow me to go threw this wild area by myself. They're very strict on the fact that you should be at least 3 to go there. So if you are lucky enough to find travel buddies to go there with you, you can make the request by email to : Mesadeentradaspnlg@apn.gob.ar or/and to Informespnlg@apn.gob.ar

• Frank 3 days part of RR then roadwalk to Calafate

I hitched from Calafate along Ruta 15 gravel road to junction X44 shown on track file then walked up to the frontier in one easy day. The route goes in CC for about 400 metres, then you go in along a drainage ditch to join an old jeep track. After a few KM the jeep track fades into cow trails but there are a lot of cows so the trails are in good condition. Then you go CC for a bit but it´s in meadows so easy walking. Flat areas near the river are boggy. When I reached the point where RR crosses the river it was running high so I went upstream 3KM on the near bank & crossed there, it was narrow & thigh deep. All other stream crossings I jumped.

2 huts at the Argentinian puesto. The good one was locked & the other one was good for cooking but not for sleeping. Good camping outside. The Chilean puesto is about 1KM from the frontier & is in good condition. It has a bed & a stove. I camped at the Argentinian puesto & returned easily to the road next day. When I reached the river I crossed it immediately - I was able to jump it at a narrow point. I stayed a little above the river on bluffs which are a bit drier than flat spots by the river. At the road I continued for about 8KM to junction X44A then hitched to Calafate.

I got the bus to Lago Roca, he dropped me at junction X44A & I walked back the 31KM Calafate in one day. You can walk on trails by the roadside for part of the route. No facilities open along the road.

Season 2022/23

• SoBo/ January 2023 / Participant: Tobias Schorcht/ 3 Days/Method: Hiking

The cheapest Bustransfer from El Calafate to Puerto Bandera which I found was 7000 APS and is provided by Tolkeyen Patagonia. From Puerto Bandera I walked straight towards the border. Cross country aside brazo rico was easy. Took me a while to find a ford through the little creek which flows into the fjord. Jan might add the ford to the new Trackfiles. After hitting the border between Chile and Argentina, I walked back through the Peninsula de Magellanes, from where I hitchhiked back to Calafate. Few people there, easy trail, saw a skunk.

Season 2021/22

Season 2020/21

Season 2019/20

Season 2018/19

Season 2017/18

Season 2016/17

Resupply and Accommodation

Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns

Resupply and Accommodation along the Route

Transport to and from Route

December 2023 info: In high season i.e. from around 1st December there is a bus on Friday, Saturday & Sunday at 8:45AM from Calafate bus terminal to Lago Roca along Ruta 15. Cost 12,000 pesos one way or about 13 euro. The driver will drop you at junction X44 shown on the track file from where you can walk up to the Chilean frontier. The bus returns from Lago Roca to Calafate on the same days at 6PM.

Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues

Frank December 2023 info:

Near the frontier I met an Argentinian guide leading a tour group on horseback. He told me I needed a permit to be there & he would report my presence to the park guards. Anyway I went in & out via farmland & only the last 6KM is in the park. There is a fence running across the valley at the park boundary but no signs to indicate you are in the park. No park guards present so it´s not an issue. However if you come in on the alternative route from Laguna Roca you will need to pay the park fee & may need a permit.

Links to other Resources

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