Cambios

 * <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''3.03.26-5.03.26 / 3 days / From Villa O'higgings to Lago del Desierto / SOBO / Pierre et Clotilde" </span> After the ferry crossing from Villa O'Higgins (with the company Turismo Las Ruedas +56966278836, but apparently there are others), the boat drops you off in Candelario Mancilla, where Ricardo and Mari Luisa's campsite is located. You can leave your belongings there while you're trekking. Day 1 : From their campsite, we went to see the border guards, as you need to inform them about the trek you'll be doing. They're not bothersome; it's more of a security measure. They take photos of you. Don't mention your packrafts if you plan to use them, as they might not be very accommodating about that. Then we did the loop, passing through the peninsula and keeping Lake O'Higgins on our right. There aren't any major difficulties, but a GPS is necessary and mandatory because the trail isn't always clear, and wildlife creates new paths. The views of the mountains, the lake, and the first Tempanos are fantastic. You'll be alone; the trail is very quiet. For our first campsite, we slept at -48.86302, -72.897725, which turns out to be a spot used by the settler Don Lucho, though it's not always in use. You can sleep here with your tent or under the shelter to the left of the house. Day 2: The next day, we went to this point -48.917816, -72.96385, where we inflated our packrafts for a round trip (about 16 km) on Lake Chico to get closer to the glacier. Be careful of icebergs that can capsize and icefalls from the glacier. The conditions were ideal for paddling: bright sunshine and no wind. Alternatively, there's a trail to the left.We slept on the same beach as the launch point. Day 3 : For the return to Candelario Mancilla, we took the classic route that crosses a beautiful plateau and descends along the river, crossing a few streams, until we reached the gravel road and the Gendarmerie post. You need to return to inform them that you've completed your trek.We slept in one of Ricardo's cabins (30 000 pesos para dos) and ate a delicious hot meal prepared by Mari Luisa. They offer several products : eggs, pasta, arroz, fideos, lentejas, sal, azucar, tortilla, carne vegetal, avena, polenta, atun,papel hygienico, galletas, cervezas, chocolate.  They have Starlink, like everywhere else, so it's easy to do the Salvoconducto (a type of mobile phone service).Ricardo can also take you to the Argentinian border for 10,000 pesos per person. From the border, it's a 5 km walk to the Carabineros post, and Lago del Desierto, where we paddled, offers an incredible view of Fitz Roy on a clear day. On the other side of the lake, you can hitchhike to El Chaltén or take a rather expensive tourist bus. ''' GPT 37 + 38 | 1/16-1/23 | 7 Days | Western Traverse + RR Counterclockwise | SOBO | Graham + Gabe ''' Section 37 - 5 daysPicked up at Bahia Pescado Section 38 - 2 DaysSection 37 was beautiful, challenging at times, but quite a nice desolate section. Mild weather, got some nice views. Laguna Verde is beautiful.Trail is actually in quite decent shape, perhaps section 36 lowered my expectations. However, if you don’t lose the trail, did you ever even have it?The Puesto at Bahia Once Hermanos is not abandoned, but was not currently occupied.Waited at Bahia Pescado for boat, the company could receive my messages but not vice versa, so I used third party to communicate with them via whatsapp — shoutout Ally.Section 38 we started with the pass with the plan of doing out and back to Don Luchos. Pass is quite chill. Don Lucho was not home, so decided to take loop along lake back. Got pounded by freezing rain, but 2 hours later it was one of the most beautiful day we have had in the south. Got to Ricardo’s late that night, was gifted Cazuela to warm our souls. Lovely people who are actually related to Roberto (the kind Arriero on section 33!) * '''2026-03-02 / 1 day / hiking / SOBO / Isabelle & Sander'''Because of time we walked in one long day 34 km from the camping at settler ricardo at the ferry from Ohiggins to camping Lago del desierto (expensive at 30k ARP, like 20 euros, pp and not very nice, but includes a hike to glacier huemul if you’d like). There’s a nice spot halfway the lago del desierto (on osm) but with a brand new sign prohibiting camping so we continued and left the space to the huemules.Border crossing just takes few minutes per person so was going fast, contradicting some reports below. Met many nice cyclists. We enjoyed this bordercrossing, but don’t expect anything like the fun Carabineros at paso Vuriloche. * <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''2026-02-24 to 2026-02-28 / 5 Days / Packrafting & Hiking / SOBO then NOBO (anticlockwise "lying P)) / RP / Antoine,Dani, Michel & Lisa'''</span> General notes: - If you leave food at the camping (Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]), make sure it's mouse protected. We came back to a few holes in our bags... - You can buy food at the Camping (very good home made bread - we bought 40 héhé, meat (you should notify them in advance since it's frozen), pasta, tomato sauce, oil, eggs, sometimes even beer and wine). And the prices are fair. They have small cabins for 30k and a nice hot shower. Here's the contact for reaching out: Mari Luisa Candelario: mariluisa78(at)hotmail dot com. / 0056 974461661. - If you want a transport by car to the argentinian border, contact Mari Luisa beforehand, for us it was 10k per person.  - The carabineros want you to fill out this expedition form if you go to the peninsula. They weren't happy when they learned that we went there without notifying them. - The views on this section are amazing and it's well worth the detour, even without packraft. The best views were from slightly uphill of Camp (38} (20.8/693] (S48.906071° W72.934563°), from slightly downhill of the pass on the peninsula (about -48.91524, -73.03481), from the Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] and of course from the packraft on Lago Chico. - Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874] is a good campsite as well, at least in calm conditions and offers amazing views of Lago and Glaciar O'Higgins. The rumbling of the calving glacier can be heard constantly. There are some large boulders that would provide shelter from westerly winds as well. Plenty of water there.  - Don Lucho (actually his son david) asked us for 20k per person for accessing his private property (the peninsula), although we ferried ourselves over the river in our packraft. We asked him if he could do a group price and he went down to 10k per person. We thought it was okay to pay something for the maintenance of the trails (they are actually really very good). If you did the loop in the other direction you might not have to pay anything.  - Doing this loop in the opposite direction (counter clockwise) would be the saver option and at least on the Lago Chico also more scenic. Because you might get stuck at Glaciar Chico in bad weather conditions. The rest is probably more scenic in clockwise direction like we did. - Options C and D (coming down from the pass towards the peninsula) are better than RR (much less overgrown), in our opinion they should become RR. Access to option C when coming down from the pass is a bit overgrown, but then turns into a good trail. - The steep downhill after Pass {38} [40.4/1225] (starting at -48.98290, -73.08804) was fine to do even in wet conditions. - The Refuge (38} [47.0/397] (Refugio Militar Valle Piramide) was open and a very good place to wait in high winds. There seems to be a solar power setup that's disconnected but that could work if you plugged everything in. - We did the loop in 5 rather relaxed (i.e. not too long) days. - Generally speaking trails are surprisingly good on this section, especially on the peninsula thanks to the settlers Don Lucho and his son. - Additional water points: S48.927130° W73.081616°, S48.959326° W73.114626°, S48.961134° W73.111681°, at and east of Pass {38} [40.4/1225]. * '''GPT38 / 2026-02-03 to 2026-02-07 / 5 days / SOBO / Anti Clockwise / Hiking / Variant A, RR, Opt 01, RR, Variant A / Alex and Aoife''’ Glacier Chico, Carmela Peninsula. Attractiveness: 5/5Difficulty: 1/5 Beautiful views of Chico Glacier and O'Higgins Glacier if you get to make it to Peninsula Carmela. Day 1: Distance: 21kmTime: 1040-1930Water: Numerous water spots Left Maria and Ricardos with fresh bread in our bags and belly's at around 10.15am on variant A to the RR. We also Left a food bag with them which was no worries at all. Went and spoke to the Gendarmarie at the Chilean border control. Where they asked us a few questions, similar to a trip intention form some National Parks have. - Contact details- Emergency contact- Route planned- How many days of food - Took our photos It was all completed with a smile and friendly manner. They asked us to come by when we finished our hike and we then set off. Route: Very enjoyable, easy walking, we stopped for lunch at ( -48.828432, -72.794089) where there was a stream.  After lunch the terrain was very open and undulating, numerous animal trails. Had to constantly check GPS as it was easy to go off. Although technically it wasn't hard, we Found the constant checking of trails slow. Saw farmer from a distance at:Settler [19.1/282 Cerro.Colorado abandoned) Not abandoned, when we got near. We called out. Owner never came out. We carried on walking.  Camp:(-48.86614,-72.89986) incredible views, relatively sheltered , ground not fully flat. Numerous good water sources before and after camp. Another optional camp site at (-48.87116,-72.90549) bit further away from farmer, stream near by. Day 2: Distance: 8.5kmTime: 0730-1100Water: Streams near camp at start and near abandoned (not so abandoned) settler. Route: We got up earlyish with the intention of getting to the river to catch Don Lucho. Not far in we were again being mislead on animal trails and finding the correct trail finding slow so it took us longer than expected.  Once we got within eye site of:Settler {38} [27.1/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?) Which is not abandoned. It is owned by Don Lucho, but he doesn't live there, a few guys working for him were living there at the time. We stopped for a break and some water from the stream there. A man on a horse appeared, we told him our intention to go visit Carmela Peninsula and to try catch Don Lucho. Lucky for us, We were talking to the man himself! He advised us he would be back and take us over in the afternoon (Tarde, which as we have learnt is considered all the way upto darkness) We hung out relaxed around that area all day, at around 2130 we figured either we got the message or wrong or he wasn't coming back. Camp: We pitched our tent next to his horse yards at around (-48.91389, -72.96153). At about 2215 Don lucho appeared on Horse back with two other men and around 10 dogs and a couple of cows They had caught and Brought back. Everyone looked tired, he said It was fine For us to camp there and to meet him at the river (-48.90912, -72.98027) opposite his house at 0800. Day 3:  Distance: 8.9kmTime: 0730- 1100Water: stream at Don Luchos and at campsite. Route:We walked on option 1 the 1.5km to the river. At 0750 Don Lucho appeared by his Row Boat on the other side. He paddled over and picked us up and took us onto Peninsula Carmela. His place is quite an Oasis there, he lead us over to the trail head. We explained we were going to camp up there and come down the following day which he told us he will take us over in the afternoon. He asked for 20k CLP total. Easy walking on a clearly defined track, slightly steep for short intervals. It was a windy day so once we were up top we were getting gusts of around 60-70kmph straight from the southern ice field so the temperature was ‘invigorating’. Views of Glacier O'higgins were spectacular.  Camp: Camp {38} [32.0/744-48.92009, -73.05421 Beautifully sheltered camp site with a nice stream running through it. Due to cold and windy weather, we were happy to use this as a rest day and just park up for the remainder of the day. Sunset and sunrise views at -48.91952, -73.05376 2 min walk from camp. Day 4: Distance: 13.8kmTime: 1030-1430Water: No issues, plenty around. Route: Walked The leisurely 3.5km to: Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874]-48.92954, -73.09554 Incredible views. Probably The best we have seen on the few sections we have done of the GPT so far. Descended back down To Don luchos where we waited out of the wind and read a book. He appeared at around 1930 looking tired saying he will take us over tomorrow morning at 0800 and to camp at his.  Camp: Don Lucho took us to a little fenced off section, by his house had a pipe from the stream for water, nice grass, wasn't completely sheltered but wasn't too bad. Day 5:  Distance: 25.5kmTime: 0800 - 1600Water: Plenty  Route: Don Lucho rowed us back Over at 0800, we said our goodbyes and continued on option 1 to RR back over the pass to Candelario Mancilla. Saw our final views of Chico Glacier as we were ascending to the valley be the pass.The walking was easy on a very prominent track. Took our shoes off at 2 fords, nothing to mention there. The walking is quick once on the MR back to Candalario. We actually passed 3 other people that day in two party's none of whom were GPTers who were going to try and visit Carmela. Which kind of took us by surprise.  We went back past the Gendarmarie. We signed their form to say we were back and safe and they asked us to complete the Salvoconducto form that night so we could leave for Argentina the next day.  Camp: We went back to stay at Ricardo and Marias. They had received a food delivery that day and had beers for Sale at 2k CLP from memory as well as more fresh baked bread and eggs.  '''2026-Jan-16 to 2026-Jan-18 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Kole''' Route (includes part of GPT39):  El Chalten > Lago del Desierto > Border Posts > RR through Valley/Pass > (Failed) Attempt at Don Lucho Crossing to Peninsula Carmela > Mirador Glacier Chico Piedra Grande > Candelario Mancilla  Day 0:  After having completed GPT39 with Emily and returning to town, I started off for GPT38 road walking from El Chalten around 17:00. This was probably late in the day for anyone to be heading to Lago del Desierto, so was unlucky getting a hitch all the way, and with some wind and rain decided to pitch near the GPT39 Valle Eléctrico trailhead: -49.22676, -72.94118 Day 1: Quickly got a hitch in the morning to Lago del Desierto. Heading north on the trail along the lake was nice, many birds along the way in the forest. Both sides of the border crossing went quickly, but the Argentine officer made sure that I headed straight to the Chilean post the same day. The walk between the two posts is straightforward. I camped at Ricardo’s campground 1km past the Chilean border post. Eggs and pan for sale. Great views of Lago O’Higgins and Peninsula Florida. Day 2: In the morning I stopped by the Chilean border post to fill out a form outlining my plans to visit Peninsula Carmela. I told them I was hoping to cross the channel with Don Lucho but they did not seem to notify him. The Valley/Pass along the RR was a nice hike, but a bit boggy at the top, and easy to lose the trail on the west side while descending. I arrived at 16:00 across the channel from Don Luchos. I called out and was answered by his dogs, someone briefly walked around the corner, saw me and then turned back around out of sight. Figuring he was busy, I camped out and waited for the next 4 hours intermittently hollering without trying to be too desperate or bothersome. At 20:00 I accepted defeat and walked back to pitch at Settler {38} [27.1/261]. This was a great peaceful and sheltered place to camp: flat, tall grass, many trees. Day 3: Went for another attempt at Don Lucho’s, arriving around 7:45. I called out and again saw someone but they made no movements to the channel and walked out of sight. Determining that they weren’t available for a channel crossing, I hiked to the mirador of Glacier Chico instead, Viewpoint {38} [32.2/484] (Piedra Grande). The trail up to the viewpoint was easy to lose and a bit overgrown but not too challenging in good weather. Overall it was worth it and great views. I hiked back to Candelario Mancilla on the same RR through the Valley/Pass. Arrived back at the Chilean border post to close out the expedition form, then camped again at Ricardos. Could connect to WiFi and purchase a ferry ticket to Villa O’Higgins for the next day. Ferry ended up being delayed another day due to wind. Ferry WhatsApp: ‪+56966278836‬  ''' 2026-Jan-10 to 2026-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, A, D, E / Emily''' Beautiful section and well worth the detour - great views of glaciers, easy walking, and no one around. I did an out-and-back on the RR to the first marked viewpoint for Glaciar Chico. Unfortunately I had to cut my route short due to not being able to catch Don Luis, a short weather window, and a need for gear repairs. If you’ve time, I think it would be well worthwhile to spend longer on this section. Attractiveness - 4/5. Difficulty - 1/5.

* Immigration was quick the next day; 15 minutes in Chile, 5 in Argentina. Both were very friendly. * I continued on to GPT39 and was able to hitch from the southern end of Lago del Desierto.