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==Season 2025/26==
''' GPT 37 + 38 | 1/16-1/23 | 7 Days | Western Traverse + RR Counterclockwise | SOBO | Graham + Gabe '''
Section 37 - 5 days
Picked up at Bahia Pescado
Section 38 - 2 Days
Section 37 was beautiful, challenging at times, but quite a nice desolate section. Mild weather, got some nice views. Laguna Verde is beautiful.
Trail is actually in quite decent shape, perhaps section 36 lowered my expectations. However, if you don’t lose the trail, did you ever even have it?
The Puesto at Bahia Once Hermanos is not abandoned, but was not currently occupied.
Waited at Bahia Pescado for boat, the company could receive my messages but not vice versa, so I used third party to communicate with them via whatsapp — shoutout Ally.
Section 38 we started with the pass with the plan of doing out and back to Don Luchos. Pass is quite chill. Don Lucho was not home, so decided to take loop along lake back. Got pounded by freezing rain, but 2 hours later it was one of the most beautiful day we have had in the south.
Got to Ricardo’s late that night, was gifted Cazuela to warm our souls. Lovely people who are actually related to Roberto (the kind Arriero on section 33!)
* '''2026-03-01 / 0,5 day / ferry / SOBO / Isabelle & Sander'''
Unfortunately had to skip the peninsula because of time. Just wanted to share that it’s probably best to book with Turismo Ruedas. The other companies do glacier tours and are happy to take you if they go anyhow, so we booked with Amigo Paragon because it was going on a Saturday but they canceled the afternoon before. Ruedas was fully booked for two trips so the next opportunity was ten days later. Luckily ruedas was rescheduled because of bad weather from Monday to Sunday and some people canceled and we could take their seats. Then the ferry was full again.
After the ferry hiked in two days to El Chalten (GPT38 and 39) to do the Vuelta Huemul (40).
* '''2026-02-18 to 2026-02-24 / 6 Days + 1 zero day / Hiking / SOBO / partial RR (O'Higgins to Bahía Pescado) / Michel & Lisa'''
General notes:
- There was no water at Camp {37H} [36.9/776], you have to bushwhack 170m towards the stream.
- Ferry to Candelario Mancilla: Ruedas de la Patagonia lets you cancel your reservation up to 2 days in advance of departure and reimburses the full price of the ticket. So it may be a good idea to book ahead if you know you're going to want to take the ferry around a certain date.
- Ruedas de la Patagonia can pick you up at Bahia Pescado without problems, it's the same price though. They'll also bring a packet for you if you want (e.g. food supplies or a packraft that's not of much use on the peninsula) at no extra cost.
- If you want to communicate with ruedas using an InReach, you'll have to use the MapShare feature as somehow their text responses don't seem to go through (i.e. they can receive your InReach message but if they reply to the text they get, they'll never arrive on the InReach, no clue why - at least that was the case for us and probably why Alex and Aoife never got a response from them)
- Hang your food, there are mice in some camp spots.
- The wind here doesn't seem to follow clear day/night cycles (i.e. calm nights and mornings, windy afternoons). We basically just always had wind and strong gusts. So if you're considering packrafting on the lake or crossing to Candelaria Mancilla you really need the right conditions.
Day 1
- We started late as we still had to do some groceries and drop off stuff at the ferry company
- Took a taxi to the end of the road (20'000 CLP)
- Hike through the forest is easy and trail well visible
- Up the pass was very windy and therefore cold, we were slightly hypothermic when we arrived up there. The path is pretty steep in parts.
- Continued to Camp {37H} [18.3/637], where there are lots of perfect, flat spots.
- The wind kept blowing through the night and gusts seemed very strong. We were worried about trees falling (potentially on our heads) and therefore didn't sleep well at all
Day 2
- We started kinda late after a very windy night that had us worried about trees falling onto our heads (there are many fallen trees around)
- Put on dry suits when we hit boggy section and kept them on through the fords and about 15 min into the trail along the lake which made progress much faster and convenient. It's actually surprisingly nice to walk in dry suits if it's rather cold.
- Walk along Laguna Verde was very beautiful, if windy. In the beginning we walked on trail, then switched back to the shore where it was easy going. It seemed we didn't have too high water levels, else it might have been more tedious with a more flooded shore
- Continued towards the west up the valley. We would've had to ford one more time here [-48.64486, -72.64465] but managed to circumvent that by doing some pretty tedious and boggy bushwhacking on the shore, getting our feet wet in the process. So you may be better off to just ford the river here.
- There is one more ford here [-48.64179, -72.67764] that you have to do, at least with the water levels we had. You might be able to hop across this one in fall when there's less water.
- All in all a beautiful day thanks to the landscape, even if we had intermittent rain. The last stretch up the valley was tough, especially the bushwhack and the last ford (not because it's difficult, just because it came unexpectedly and we were both already pretty tired).
- We wanted to camp at Camp (37H} [36.9/776] but there's no water there (it seems that a river dried up or changed course). So we bushwhacked 170m north to the stream where we found a nice campspot for bad weather camping (sheltered, next to the river, pretty flat) here: [-48.63968, -72.68518]. Generally I would recommend people to camp further down in the valley though because it's more open terrain so you get views of the landscape, here the forest is too dense to see anything.
Day 3
- Hiked up to the pass in a mix of clouds, sun and rain. There are some boggy sections where we got our feet a bit wet. The stream has to be crossed multiple times, not just at the two ford markers. Kind of annoying but the landscape makes up for it.
- After the pass it's a lot less soggy.
- When we hit the CC stretch (RR-CC-A {37H} [53.9/41.1+1.7]) we went a bit further down the hill and found a nice trail that helped a lot. At first it's slightly down hill from the track file and then it joins it. It disappears after about half way.
- We continued to Camp {37H} [62.2/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) where there's good wind shelter and pretty flat spots.
- Hang your food here. We forgot and had chewing marks in some of our food bags in the morning.
Day 4
- Very scenic hike today along the coast in less overcast and rainy conditions than all the days before - nice! Still very windy though, big waves and white foam on the lake.
- Looking at the lake we were glad we didn't bring the packraft to cross the lake, it wouldn't have been feasible in these conditions, at least not in our open 2 person packraft and with our risk tolerance.
- We camped at Camp (37H} [64.1/377] where there's a wind sheltered spot in the trees for I'd say 2-3 tents. In windy conditions this is a good campsite. If you have nice, calm weather I'd go somewhere else since here you don't really see anything.
- It's worth it to continue on the path for 5 - 10 min to get beautiful views of the mountains.
Day 5
- We continued along the trail and made it to Bahía Pescado (Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael)), where we searched for a spot to put our tent. The settlers were not there, so there was no starlink. It was difficult for us to find a wind sheltered spot for our tent, the wind seemed to change directions all the time and was rather strong. We chose to camp next to the hay stack which was okay
- Camp {37H} (66.5/343] (Vista Fitzroy) does have very nice views but other than that nothing special, not very sheltered, we took a long lunch break there and enjoyed the incredible views of Fitz Roy and Lago O'Higgins
- The views from Pass {37H} [68.1/492] are amazing as well
Day 6
- Due to high winds, the ferry that was supposed to pick us up from Bahia pescado couldn't leave that day and so we had to wait out another day in high winds which made it not very enjoyable. We wished that the settlers had been there, that would've probably made for a much nicer experience.
Day 7
- We got picked up by the ferry (Ruedas de la Patagonia) in Bahía Pescado at 9:45, 1h 45 later than they told us, and brought to Candelario Mancilla
* '''GPT37H / 2026-01-30 to 2026-02-01 / 3 Days + boat ride following morning / Western Traverse /SOBO / Hiking /RR, G, RR, H / Alex and Aoife.'''
Attractiveness: 5/5
Difficulty: 3/5
Florida Peninsula. Overall, beautiful section which does feel quite remote. And very novel to be picked up on the southern end via the Boat.
Pre organising required as we wanted the boat to meet us at Bahia pescado and take us to Candelario Mancilla.
Due to our time constraints and the boats only operating on Monday, Thursday, Saturday (weather permitting) we did this Western Traverse in 3 days. We managed but it was too much. I think 4 or maybe even 5 days would provide A much more leisurely pace where you can stop and enjoy your surrounds a bit more.
We arrived late into Villa O'Higgins the night before and went straight to the Ruedas ferry office and met with Sebastian. We organised the Monday boat would pick us up at Bahia Pescado at 9am and bring us to Candelario Mancilla . He also agreed to bring our foodbag for section 38 & 39.
Camped at Camping Tierra Paraiso. 8k pp. Nice enough place, grass to pitch on and was quiet at the time.
As we were in a rush we didn't quite think through establishing a communication system well. So I'll mention what we did and how I would do it better.
It seems generally hikers and Ruedas assume at Bahia Pescado that Starlink can be used at:
Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael)
-48.825720, -72.700350
to contact Ruedas and confirm they are there to be picked up etc. This idea doesn't work when Misael and Nicole aren't home.
So the morning we started the hike I sent a whatsapp message to Seb explaining that I am going to send a test message on my Garmin Inreach to him and if he could reply to confirm he got it.
I didn't hear back so messaged him on whatsapp from on top of a hill a few kms into the hike to put my mind at Ease and assured him we would be there on the Monday even if we don't have internet reception to confirm this. He also confirmed he got the inreach Message. So I said I would contact him on that when we arrive.
I never got a response back from Seb on my Inreach, Im guessing that maybe due to Chilean phone plans only providing data and minutes which only seem to work to contact other phones with the same service provider.
So I think talking about the Inreach and doing a test message in Person and just being clear about that process would be something I would recommend.
The two supermarkets in town were relatively stocked for dry goods , don't expect much in terms of fresh produce.
Day1: 30/01/26
We got a hitch from the edge of town the 7km to Puerto Bahamondes. Apparently there is a bus from Villa O'Higgins tourism office - we had someone mention this to us but can not confirm.
Distance: 23km
Time: 1015- 2000
Water:
Water along the way even on the pass.
Route:
Walked the 750m of minor road to where the TL starts. Followed Emily's track notes, following the animal tracks along the river. We were there after sunny weather so was less boggy but you could see it could be very boggy in parts. Trail was easy to walk on and follow managed to keep dry and shoes on with some creative route finding until ford [19.7/607].
Due to warm weather there was lots of ice melt so massive flooded section over the trail so avoided this.
Took shoes off once we reached Laguna Verde and walked in the shallows until the other side of ford [24.9/542]. Track became a little bit harder to follow from then until camp. Basically you would be in the trees until it got thick and then you would be rock hopping on the shoreline until back unto the trees. Lots of trees down and water level of Lake higher then RR shows on GPS in some sections.
Camp:
We were tired and decided to camp at (-48.63257, -72.60775) space for 1 tent, sheltered, flat and access to lake for drinking.
Day2: 31/01/2026
Diatance: 24km
Time: 0830-2000
Water: Lots of water along the way.
Route:
Easy start along nice trail. At ford [30.56/ 575] water was just above knee ( we are 170cm tall) . Had to take shoes off a few times. Lovely views the whole way up the ascent to the pass. We had great weather. Views from the pass to the West are amazing... well worth it. Some boggy sections , but not too bad.
Route was relatively easy to find until the cross country section at ( -48.64337, -72.73005). We followed animal trails in general direction until around ( -48.648055, -72.736618) where the track started to contour and then gradually climb, the path was well trodden so we followed for a bit, but then decided we had gotten too far off route so descended down to RR , we regretted this decision as we had to push through knee high spikey bushes for the remainder of that section.
Would recommend to continue following prominent animal tracks from around above waypoint and stay high until roughly above the waypoint:
‘Trailhead [55.6/344]’ (-48.65420, -72.74617)
and descend on the animal tracks of your choosing. Trail was then easy to follow and relatively quick until the final CC section, the descent to camp, we found the landscape intuitive enough to read and get down easily.
Camp:
[62.2/262] ( Arrollo De Rrumbe) , there was a couple of streams close by before you get to the final CC section, otherwise water At the lake. Well sheltered, beautiful views across the lake. Nice sunset and sunrise.
Day 3: 1/ 2/26
Distance: 22km
Time: 0700-1800
Water: At fords and streams along the way.
Route:
Followed the RR until variant G ( as per Emilys recomendation, Thanks). We crossed a Ford [ 64.0/375], mid calf. Started raining after lunch and wind picked up. After the pass on descent down to Bahia Pescado lost the trail a few times. Followed RR to variant H and then took Variant H to the way point settler [4.5/264] ( Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael) . No one was home, except the chickens. At the time, it was hard to find a sheltered spot, pitched next to a big bundle of hay qnd camped there. No streams located in that area, drank from the lake. Messaged Ruedas from Inreach, no response back.
Camp:
Within 50m of
Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael)
-48.82551, -72.70026
Next morning:
Picked up by Ferry that was 2 hours late ( we were getting nervous) . Boat pulled into the headland at around (-48.826254, -72.699904) where it pulled up we had to embark from a rock pulling ourselves up onto the boat from a handrail. Several passengers on board were definitely curious as to how/why/where we had been. Took about 20-30 mins to Candelario Mancilla. We stayed at Maria and Ricardos in a cosy little cabin (15k pp) , 10k pp to camp. Access to Starlink, hot shower, and at the time fresh bread and eggs. Definitely recommend the fresh bread and eggs.
'''2026-Jan-21 to 2026-Jan-25 / 5 days / Hiking / CCW / RR / Kole'''
An amazing adventure, but not without its challenges. The beach walking portions and sunset at Laguna Verde were memorable highlights. It was very immersive with not seeing anyone else during the trek.
Attractiveness: 5/5
Difficulty: 5/5
Camps:
Night 1: Camp [105.1/549] — a great flat and relatively sheltered camp spot on Laguna Verde, I didn’t find it excessively buggy
Night 2: Camp [62.2/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) — another great spot right off a rocky beach on Lago O’Higgins, there are several flat and somewhat sheltered spots. Note that the waypoint is mislabeled, the camp is actually around km 49.0
Night 3: Camp [76.0/464] — no views, small spot, but greatly protected
Night 4: Camp [97.3/262] — plenty of flat and sheltered spaces in and around a forested coral
Challenges:
Some very overgrown (and rather thorny) trail in many parts. The trail also at times becomes difficult to follow amongst the rouge cow paths, keeping a diligent eye on GPS is required. Expect a constant personal escort of horse flies on windless days. Many fords and bogs made for wet feet the entire trek. I experienced relatively tame weather, but do expect this segment to be much more difficult in poor conditions.
Fords:
Ford {37H} [69.8/255] at Bahia Pescado was waist deep (~100cm) but easily passable with a minimal current.
Ford {37H} [90.1/263] (Rio Aro) and Ford {37H} [97.0/255] (Rio San Martin) were closer to 80cm high but with strong currents required careful footing.
I found Ford [96.6/255] to be entirely impassable at the time of my trek. The path requires wading across a bay, but the tide was up to my pack. I had to turn back and take variant Q along the boggy shore.
* ''' 2026-Jan-16 to 2026-Jan-18 / 3 Days / Hiking / 01, 08, 01 RR / Mor '''
General remarks:
Default state is wet feet as the mountain feels like one big swamp.
Trail finding is definitely the most challenging part of it.
Day 1: villa O'Higgins -> Camp {37H} [19.7/388]
Walking on Opt 1, trail finding is largest challenge after passing the puesto.
Tried to go into Opt 2 and Opt 2A but as I was about 750m into Opt 2 a sudden hail shower turned me back as I didn't want to walk on the exposed ridge of Opt 2A in strong winds and showers.
Day 2: Camp {37H} [19.7/388] -> Camp {37H-08} [4.6/337] (Bad Weather Option) -> Camp {37H} [19.7/388]
*Option 8*: until where camps are marked (around 4.6 km) it is walkable on a decent trail which does require more BB/CC than Opt1 but is okay. Exploration part seemed undoable or highly demanding. No apparent trail that goes up the ridge. Abundance of rock fall and overall poor quality rock. Very very steep and exposed face. Wind is a big factor especially as the trail faces West and most winds comes from W-NW meaning they hit you directly. I turned around after a few hundred metres as I figured it didn't worth the risk of exploring it alone.
It forced me to trace back to Opt 1 and miss the part of Laguna Verde. In the end, due to lack of food, motivation and overall low physical feeling I cut the journey short leaving room for the next time.
Day 3: Camp {37H} [19.7/388] -> Villa O'Higgins.
Easy stroll on decent trails back to VOH.
* ''' 2026-Jan-5 to 2026-Jan-14 / 10 Days / Hiking / RR, 01, A, RR, 03, RR / Massa and Jacicek '''
Day 1
We started walking at villa O’Higgin's and took option 1 to laguna negra. The path up to Laguna is nice and there is a lot of viewpoints. After the ford there is a gate and it can be opened from the right side. The puesto appeared to be empty, but there were a pair of water shoes before the ford. We camped at camp km 12.3.
Day 2
The path on the right side of the lake was in worse condition than the day before. And you need to pay attention to the GPS to stay on the path. Water was available at multiple places along the path. We stayed at camp km 18.7.
Day 3
We continued along the option 01. The initial horse trail is certainly nice. The cross-country section up the hill was rather challenging, but there was almost no bb. From the pass 23.9, the path is nice again. We camped at -48.53519, -72.69804.
Day 4
We found opt A to be traversable without issue, follow the edge of the dense forest, The path was even cleared at certain spots. The pass is really beautiful. Camped at [-48.55710, -72.64674].
Day 5
A lot of CC through wet marches. At the edge of the Lago (Ford 24.9) we would recommend to go through lake water further, as there is deep bog and large fallen tree just in path. Several dozen meters further is much nicer path. Camp km 105.1.
Day 6
Due to bad weather forecast for counter clock wise traverse we went in the direction of Bahia Aros. Ford at 96.6 was almost waist deep,, but narrow. We haven’t managed to find a path around through the shallow water (muddy after about half way). Settlers at puesto 90.5, they were friendly and told us that we can stay at refugio at Bahia Aros (where we camped). Ford at Rio Aros was rather strong and waist deep in the evening.
Day 7
Opt 3 starts with animal trail tracks. Some are better than others, and at places there are many new ones. The flatter valley section is boggy, but there are plenty places to pitch a tent, even wind protected. We camped [-48.71497, -72.67569], which wasn’t really flat however.
Day 8
Path 03 down to puesto La Pampa is nice and maintained with beautiful view of the Lago. The CC section 41.1 +1.7 was demanding for us. We stayed at camp 40.2, we found water there as described by Michael and Kasia.
Day 9
A lot of rain today, with many fords due to that rain. Camped at camp 114.5.
Day 10
Track back to villa O’higgins.
'''2026-Jan-04 to 2026-Jan-08 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Full 8 Circuit, anti-clockwise; RR, G / Emily'''
An incredible section - one of my favourites. I really enjoyed the full circuit and its diversity of trail and landscapes - would highly recommend! If you’re short on time, I’d suggest the western traverse, or an inverted ‘Q’ (i.e. a side trip to Cañadon los Patos rather than to Bahia San Martin) for the best views and trail.
Attractiveness - 5/5
Difficulty - 4/5
Camps
* Day 1 - Ford/Camp [18.3/637]. Plenty of space. Lots of bugs.
* Day 2 - -48.701918, -72.755100, (beach before Camp 62.2/262, where the CC ends). Space for 1 tent, flat but sloped, very hard ground. I wouldn’t recommend this spot and would suggest continuing to the marked camp. I only stopped here after arriving at the first beach and misreading the map. Note, this camp is around 48.5km - not 62.2.
* Day 3 - -48.834730, -72.625340 (hill above Camp 76.4/449). No water, lumpy and zero protection, but beautiful views.
* Day 4 - -48.677538, -72.589635 (approx. 101.3km). Very small spot. No water but a small stream shortly beforehand. I would only recommend in a pinch; Camps 97.5/320 and 105.1/549 looked a lot more comfortable. There were a couple of spots before in the forest that would’ve been more suitable if you’re looking to camp between the two marked spots.
The write up in the manual gives a great overview of the section. I found conditions to be more/less the same, with the biggest challenges being wayfinding and overgrown trail. Some points of note
* I started from Villa O’Higgins at midday on a Sunday; no luck with hitches. On return (Thursday, 5pm), there were plenty of cars near the Fin de la Carretera sign at Bahia Bahamondes, and I got a hitch shortly thereafter.
* After the bridge at 8.3/282 there’s a trail that cuts straight up to the RR around -48.519166, -72.597222, avoiding the unnecessary descent.
* Watch for the RR turnoff at the intersection for Option 1 - very easy to miss and continue on to the option.
* The RR requires some BB where it diverges from Variant G. G is instead relatively clear and easy to follow.
* There are lots of misleading animal trails, though with a bit of creative CC you can usually find your way back to the RR. The exception to this was after Water 49.9/252; watch for the trail going up. I continued along a well-defined animal trail, and when trying to cut across hit some steep scrambles and impenetrable BB. Best to backtrack if you find yourself in a similar situation.
* Trail on the eastern traverse was at times overgrown, requiring some CC/BB in thorny bush. For the most part, the path remained visible. These overgrown sections became very wet after light rain, making for some pretty miserable and cold walking.
* After a week of sun, I had no issues with fords. I crossed Rio Aro [90.1/263] around 3.30pm, starting below the waypoint and walking on a diagonal up. This kept me in shallows to my knee, with the exception of the last 2m to my mid-upper thigh (165cm). I crossed Rio San Martin [97.0/255] at the waypoint; mid-upper thigh. Both fords had strong currents, but weren’t particularly difficult.
<big>'''2025-12-20 to 2025-12-22/ 3 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ RR, Option 2, Option 2A, Option 1/ Greg Carter'''</big>
=Transport to and from Route=
February 2026:
- Ferry to Candelario Mancilla: Ruedas de la Patagonia lets you cancel your reservation up to 2 days in advance of departure and reimburses the full price of the ticket. So it may be a good idea to book ahead if you know you're going to want to take the ferry around a certain date.
- Ruedas de la Patagonia can pick you up at Bahia Pescado without problems, it's the same price though. They'll also bring a packet for you if you want (e.g. food supplies or a packraft that's not of much use on the peninsula) at no extra cost.
- If you want to communicate with ruedas using an InReach, you'll have to use the MapShare feature as somehow their text responses don't seem to go through (i.e. they can receive your InReach message but if they reply to the text they get, they'll never arrive on the InReach, no clue why - at least that was the case for us and probably why Alex and Aoife never got a response from them)
- ferry cost 60k CLP per person, booking online it seems to be 70k CLP
February 2025: