6
ediciones
Cambios
→Season 2024/25
==Season 2025/26==
'''2026-01-25 to 2026-01-29 / 3 days + 1 zero / Hiking / SOBO / Option 2, RR, Option 1, RR, Option 4, RR / Chris & Lotte'''
Stunning section, my favorite so far in terms of attractiveness to km ratio.
About Option 2: since I met Erwin last year already, I early on contacted him and told him we'd come by and stay for a night with them. This time Don Hector and Nery were at their house as well. They are truly lovely people, we shared a lot.of laughs and Don Hector gave us a big tour around the property and showed us, where they used to wash their clothes in the river 50 years ago.
They charge 5kCLP pp for passing. They didnt want more money for staying the night with them, we paid 15k anyways, as I paid it last year as well and it seems like a fair price for camping, water, hot shower.
Enrique (mentioned by Greg) does not seem to have the best reputation in the valley, one calling him a scammer. It might be a neighborhood feud, I couldn't tell for sure.
The path (RR-MR) is managed and maintained by the municipality. its strange, that both entrys to it are crossing private property.
Last year, the gates on Variant D werent locked as well. This time we didnt check.
Another point to mention is: two times loose dogs charged at us. The first time one and he only hopped the fence after we had passed his propeety, so he didnt charge us. The second time three very aggressive dogs charged at us, even before we were halfway of their property. the brown one was actively trying to attack us. We fenced them off with our poles, didnt let them circle us and fought our way past them. No owner in sight, noone reacted to our "hola"s. Be prepared.
Water is a struggle. Couldnt confirm the water sources indicated by others, but found one spring at 40.562851, 072.142571 which I didnt encounter last year. It seems simply not reliable. There is very very little snow left. Some rivers were dry, that were flourishing last year. Hot spring had visibly lower water level than usual and defenitly hotter than last year and smelled a bit like piss for some reason.
The river at 40.592226, 072.135329 should be marked in my opinion though. It seems quite resilient to draught.
Climbing the summit was easer than anticipated. It took us less than 2hrs up, 50min down. "Official" estimate is 2:30hrs up. Its not as gravel-ly as other volcanos and we defenitly recommend to take on this extra effort.
If you want to make the bus at 7:30am a suitable campspot with water somewhat closeby is at 40.624894, 072.149846 (near water 75.4).
The refugio was crowded (not even the weekend). We were 12 people, therefore we stayed in our tent. The others didnt bring tents as they intended only to stay the night and summit the next morning.
'''2026-01-24 to 2026-01-27 / 3.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Basti, Isi, Maija, Steff'''
We did Puyehue NOBO in-and-out to the geysers with a detour to the hotsprings due to missing knowledge about alternative routes and to leave our luggage at Santiago's.
Day 1: We took a bus from Puerto Montt to Entre Lagos and easily got a hitch to the intersection to Hotel Puyehue/Aguas Calientes. We did not get a hitch from there in one hour waiting, but got an offer from the resident in the first house after the intersection to drive us for 20.000$. We started hiking relatively late (16:00) and climbed the fence of Santiago's property and payed 15.000$ pp for the right to use the path. The restaurant is closed, but the campsite could be used for 5.000$ pp. We slept the first night at Refugio El Caulle after a steep but not too difficult ascent. No problems/encounters with mice inside the hut (saw one outside though) and no other people (Saturday night). Very basic plank beds without mattresses, but relatively tidy.
Day 2: We found sufficient water in multiple spots along RR -40.60257, 72.13280 (W1), -40.59183, -72.13529 (W2), -40.56460, -72.14192 (W3), -40.56294, -72.14272 (W4), but afterwards none anymore this day. W1 had more and cleaner water in the morning than W2, but more sediments in the evening on day 3. W4 was superior to W3 and marked by a red canister slightly up the river bed before vanishing underground. We climbed up to the crater from -40.57792, -72.13386 which was short but steep. We made camp at -40.49311, -72.15954 close to the geyser but up the slopes without finding water close by. Due to the humidity of the geyser, we had wet and a little icy tents in the morning.
Day 3: We did the hotsprings -40.46725, -72.20692, some 3kms after the end of the path in OSM, return and found great water at -40.48677, -72.17843 with a stream in the whole valley. We walked back on RR. We slept at -40.60240, -72.13383 which was nicely flat with water closeby (W1, lots of sediments in the evening). Nice star sky. In the night, the wind picked up and it got very dusty though.
Day 4: We climbed up to the crater again, this time the path from the refugio visible on OSM. Easier but more elevation. By the time we came back to the refugio at around 11/12, there were 3 people for the night. Hiked down to the street again and continued to the camping in Anticura for food. Nice restaurant and cheap camping, no store with nice waterfalls close by (possibility so swim).
We really enjoyed the hike! Gaitors would have been nice, the loose volcanic rocks are really tough on shoes and socks. We took the small (and only) early morning bus back to Osorno, around 7:30, stopping both in Anticura and at Santiago's.
'''2026-01-21 to 2026-01-23/ 3 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Option 2, RR, Variant D, Variant E, RR, Option 4, RR/ Greg Carter'''
Overall
Incredible volcanic terrain and vistas!
Attraction: 5
Difficulty: 3
Access on Variant D
I contacted (full name) Enrique Fernando Nuñez (+56 9 8817 1134) on WhatsApp to arrange access on Variant D. He asked me to come to his house in Riñinahue so he could give me a key, and said the access cost is CLP 10,000 per person. Unfortunately he lives almost 2km from the start of Option 2, here: -40.32940, -72.22500. I walked to his house, had a nice chat and found out that he manages the forest in the vicinity of the black gate (-40.42611, -72.11122) on Variant D. He showed me a video of where he hides the key for the gate. However when I arrived there the gate was not locked!
I suggest that if you want to arrange access you ask Enrique to meet you in Riñinahue town when you arrive, to avoid the hassle of a 4km round trip to his house.
Day 1
I hitched easily a few times, up to the new bridge under construction [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue). The RR from there is a tedious walk up a MR. On the way I found a spring flowing across the road: -40.39866, -72.09008. There is also a bridge with a flowing stream: -40.40579, -72.10656, and good flowing water in a gully: -40.40810, -72.11114.
At the intersection of the RR and Variant D I saw that the gate across the RR was locked, so considering that I had arranged access, I turned right up variant D. See the note above for access through the black gate. Not far beyond this is another gate, which was also open.
Needing water and curious about the availability of water I turned onto Variant E. I found a little stream at -40.42948, -72.11325.
I then rejoined the RR.
Day 2
This day was far more enjoyable and interesting, especially once above the treeline, with geysers, numerous lava fields, ridge walking and mountain views (despite low cloud for most of the day).
I encountered no water until the good flowing spring (previously noted) at -40.56313, -72.14318.
The next water encountered was at -40.59196, -72.13544, a good flowing stream.
I camped close to the next water [71.9/ 1610], where there is a large flat circular area: -40.60241, -72.13381. This is a good base camp for the summit climb.
Day 3
This day started with clear blue sky and no wind, perfect for the summit. The caldera was stunning, as were the 360 degree views to all the other peaks and volcanoes in the region. For me this bumped the attraction up to 5/5 from 4/5.
The walk out was easy but involved a lot of steep downhill sections. When I passed Santiago’s place I said I had paid Enrique, and was not asked for money. There is cellular coverage around Santiago’s place.
At the main road I hitched to the Chile/ Argentina border, intending to get to Bariloche. To my surprise the border officials wouldn’t let me through on foot unless I had arranged transport with someone with a vehicle. Only then could I get an exit stamp. I found a ride by hanging out in the car park and approaching people who looked the most likely to help.
''' GPT19/ 2026-1-5 to 2026-1-7/3 days/ SOBO/RR/Denis, Robert '''
The road from Lake Maihue is pretty easy going only thing is ford of river Hueinahue, it is wide but narrow no problem. After ford I would try to stay next to the river and go down stream and join the road lower instead of following trail. We had to jumped over two fences and go through some bush, but possible. Last water around 50 km.
Before the gate we first called Erwin +56 9 7306 4535 but he redirected us to Sra Nery Raddatz +56 9 9776 9352. After asking for permission he said that if we are not afraid of dogs we can jump over the fence and go up. We didn’t need to pay anything. The trail is bit overgrown after fence.
Next small stream we found here (-40.56274, -72.14291) and then proper water source at 71 km.
We hitchhiked to Entre Lagos from. Anticura it went pretty smooth busy traffic.
Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5
*''' 2025.28.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Var. D + H / Kris, Stiina and Bailey'''
We connected sections 19, 20 and 21 from Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue) to Port {21} [29.4/204] (El Callao) - 5 walking days in total.
Day 1 - We got a late 4pm lift with a friend to Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue), as mentioned earlier it is now a big construction site, seemed like a construction of a new bridge.
Two angry dogs and a cow with two calves right at the gate before Hector’s place where the RR continues. Even though dogs made a lot of noise nobody came out and we didn’t want to open and go through the gate because of the dogs and the cornered cow with the calves. So we turned to variant D and there was the new, black, freshly painted gate. The gaps between the babed wire on the side were generous enough so that we could get through without climbing the gate. 100m further there was another gate, older looking with signs prohibiting entrance and there being surveillance cameras. There was a phone nr to call but no phone signal, but there also was a gap between fence posts that one could squeeze through which we did.
Our initial plan was to rejoin the RR via variant E but we needed water and saw some potential water on satellite and also marked as water on the osm so we continued along variant D it also seemed to be joining back the RR later on and the distance was more or less the same.
And we found a big stream in a ravine with a road passing over it but the stream was 15m down in a canyon impossible to get to, however 30m further on: -40.43197, -72.11723 there was a very very small flowing stream that we managed to get water from.
As we walked on a car came towards us and stopped, a slightly agitated guy stepped out and immediately asked us how did we had managed to get through the gates. When we explained the situation he said it will cost us 10k CLP pp to go through here, since we were kind of trespassing and were caught we said we will pay no problem after which he softened up and became a lot friendlier. He is the owner of the land Enrique Nuñez and his phone nr is +56 988 171 134. He said that it is not a problem for people to pass through his property as long as they let him know and pay I guess - he put up the gate so that people with cars couldn’t pass. Also the road going through has been recently “maintained” and a 4x4 could get up it so he said if you come with a car he can also let you through. Afterwards he told us that we can camp wherever we want and told us about the wildlife cameras on the property that he has managed to capture different animals on, such as pumas and wild hogs. He also mentioned the termas and that there is a water somewhere nearby them, but we weren’t exactly sure where the thermas were, except for the coordinates provided by Peggy. He also said something about building or there being a refugio somewhere.
We camped here -40.44411, -72.12758 by some old storage shed with lots of empty motor oil containers inside. You can hear a stream nearby but we couldn’t find a way to get to it it’s still down in a canyon.
Day 2 - In the morning we wanted to find some more water for the day without going back to where we found it yesterday. Again I could see on the satellite image that there should be some further up along the variant D which there was here -40.44985, -72.11917 there is also a gully with water 100m before but with a bit more downclimbing over the logs.
The confusing part was this junction that isn’t mentioned along the variant D -40.44735, -72.12289. The main MR follows the OSM trail up to where there are the supposed termas, however the variant D traverses back to RR along a lesser traveled path. Since the potential water gullies that we saw on the sat were along the variant D we followed it instead of going up the road.
Once we rejoined the RR about 5km later there is another trail junction here -40.48121, -72.13715 where the OSM trail from variant D joins the RR. At the junction the OSM trail is marked with big blue markers on the trees and I would say if I was going NOBO that’s the trail I would take instead of the RR. I think the variants should be updated here and someone should double confirm about the exact location of the termas and whether there is drinking water nearby. According to Enrique the water is somewhere down on the right side.
The junction is where the two questionable water points are, Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] and the one a bit further but since we had enough and the waypoints were off trail somewhere we didn’t go to investigate.
The geyser/fumarole area you could smell from a distance, very cool area though as mentioned before don’t go too close the ground is kind of soft.
Overall the high volcanic plateau was very beautiful, especially the dark contrasting lava fields. And the walking was a bit tough going with a lot of small runnels and gullies carved by water that needed to be crossed, slanted ground, slippery because of small rocks on top of a packed soil making the ball bearing effect.
There was a snowmelt puddle here -40.50745, -72.17575 with enough snow around to keep it for at least a month a legit water point, also there was a possible campsite nearby.
The best water source that we found all day was here: -40.56294, -72.14272 it seemed like a spring since it was very cold and coming directly from the ground, not from a snowmelt above because there wasn’t any snow above.
After that travering the west side of Volcán Puyehue, pretty much every gully had water, but all of them were very silty in the late afternoon due to the snowmelt above.
When we got to Water {19} [71.9/1610] the water was also full of sediment. Bailey still went for the summit of Puyehue while me and Stiina felt a bit tired and took the variant H and descended to the Refugio El Caulle, which is where we all camped for the night. No water in the ditch below the refugio but there was a very small stream in a gully below the trail about 600m before the refugio.
The refugio itself was decent, not too much trash in or around, in bad weather definitely a good place for an overnight. Dry toilet about 100m from the refugio down towards the gully, the toilet was also pretty clean.
Day 3 - Though the morning was sunny clouds started rolling in while we were getting ready. Bailey already took off around 7:00 in the morning because he had a bus to catch from Entre Lagos to Bariloche in the evening, we just said goodbye and kept snoozing.
For my morning knees the trail felt pretty steep going down at first but once they warmed up it got better, good trail overall and the water was where it’s marked.
A woman came out from El Caulle asked about our plans we told her that we are heading to Anticura and also that we already paid on the other side of volcano to Enrique, she said all good and we could pass without paying anything. We saw Tia Olivia’s place, there was a sign about bread and empanadas but we didn’t go there, we went straight to the restaurant which is at the end of variant B (section 20). We got there by 11 and the restaurant was still closed. The chef inside said they need to still prep some food and they will open in half an hour so we waited because we wanted to have lunch there.
Nice place, the young waitress working there had only her third day on the job and was quite overwhelmed and appeared a bit clueless about everything and everything understandably took her very long time especially once other people started arriving so we spent there a lot more time than we intended, I hope she is a quick learner. (Only mentioning it in case you plan to stop there for a quick lunch, to take into account that it might take a bit longer).
Overall it seemed like a popular place for all the car tourists passing by coming to and from Bariloche. The road had very decent traffic and I think getting a hitch should be relatively easy going either way. Quite a few big trucks though so the road walk wasn’t the nicest.
After the lunch we went back to the junction and across the road started the section 20 via variant A.
(Continued in Section 20)
For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures
* ''2025-12-15 to 2025-12-18 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (Variant D), OH4 (up and down), OH1 / Nimrod + Shai + Shmuel + Shay''
15/12
Restaurante El Caulle → Refugio El Caulle
We paid 15000 CLP per person at Santiago hut.
The initial section of the ascent was muddy and relatively flat. The final section was steeper and slippery due to heavy rain.
Several water sources were available along the way; water was collected as there was none at the refuge.
Dense fog developed near the top.
Reached the refuge, which was littered with trash.
Overnight stay at the refuge.
Distance: 8.46 km
Elevation gain: 1,077 m
Elevation loss: 35 m
16/12
Refugio El Caulle → 40.5285946°S, 72.1719636°W
Morning ascent to the summit over snow-covered volcanic terrain, with steeper slopes near the top.
At the crater, conditions included snow and strong winds with limited visibility. Decided against doing 4B option.
The descent was rapid, including sliding on snow in sections.
Continued hiking through cloud cover with multiple ascents and descents over snowfields, some with deep post-holing.
Observed colorful geothermal features and geysers.
Strong winds and cloud cover persisted at higher elevations, limiting views.
Camped near a river despite potential risk.
Distance: 18 km
Elevation gain: 1,688 m
Elevation loss: 1,515 m
17/12
40.5285946°S, 72.1719636°W → 40.4629860°S, 72.1160620°W
Started the day with rain. Wet conditions throughout, including steep ascents and descents on a faint, rarely used trail.
Water availability was limited until reaching the river.
Reached hot springs in rainy conditions and stopped for an extended rest.
Continued toward geothermal fields with notable geysers, then descended into forested terrain.
The campsite was established on the trail due to lack of better options, water availability remained limited.
Distance: 24.8 km
Elevation gain: 1,037 m
Elevation loss: 1,616 m
18/12
40.4629860°S, 72.1160620°W → 40.3861952°S, 72.0805632°W
Freshly painted black gate about 100 meters from where Variant D and RR meet, after debating we decided to cross it. and when back a bit to hector house, talked with Erwin and filled some water.
Got a ride from the main road.
Distance: 13 km
Elevation gain: 184 m
Elevation loss: 858 m
* '''2025-12-16 to 2025-12-19 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR OH4a (turned around) OH1 OH2 / Isabelle and Sander'''
Impressive Puyehue vulcano! Made long days to squeeze trip in between bad weather but still had a lot of rain and wind on day 2. All indicated water points had water. Paid 15.000 each to a young woman who called Santiago when we showed up at the lodge at the start of the RR. We came by bus from Osorno and the bus driver helped to directly transfer to a bus to anticura so that was very smooth. At the end we walked option 2 until Pocura, hitchhiking no luck, when a bus showed up around 14h45 all the way to Rio Bueno.
Two important additions to what has been said before:
1. OH4a over the crater rim. We did it nobo with our backpacks, some steep parts but fine and quite some recent snow. Clouds and wind came in at the end of the day so we only saw the crater for some magical minutes. When reaching the northern part where the tracks go down again we bumped into quite steep snow/icefield. With strong wind and clouds we had very bad visibility and couldn’t see an alternative route. Would be a very bad place to fall so we turned around and were back at the RR after 20 o’clock and very tired. Actually on satellite images you can see the build up of snow at that point. Can imagine the size can fluctuate lots depending on weather.
2. When arriving at hectors place on our third day we followed the last km the gravel road of 19D but a large brand new locked gate with lots of barbed wire has been erected. Calling Erwin’s number as below wasn’t working neither we had enough internet for WhatsApp. Barking dogs but no one answered our ‘hola!’s. We climbed back to the RR and on the way took some water at a little stream around -40.43132, -72.11323. When following the RR to hectors house it seemed no one was there. The dogs came loudly barking, still no one came and the only way to calm the dogs was to keep walking further and we slipped through a locked gate with barbed wire and the dogs left. We continued a few km and a nice person at the next house advised us a camping spot on a communal space after a gate which you can open around -40.40713, -72.10952 and there should be clean water. We actually didn’t camp there because he underestimated it at 200 meters, but after 800 meters still didn’t see a gate and we found many other nice spots. Next day we found out it was just 100 meters further haha. Theres a beautiful river there as well!
We actually met Nimrod and friends on their way down to hectors place. Maybe they met someone who could explain the new gate?
* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''2025-11-30 to 2025-12-04 / 4.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Options 01 and 04A, Variant H / Antoine Bocquier '''</span>
A section full of various landscapes, from Valdivian jungle to tall-tree forest, volcanic hills, lava fields, (amazing) hot spring, volcano climb & crater. Pretty happy for my first GPT section, even with mixed weather (the clouds have some charm down here).
Attractivity: 5
(Mostly the volcanic area and variety of environments)
Difficulty: 3
(Long section road, long ascent, loose rocks on inclined sections, water)
Water: overall not too tricky to find for now, even on the volcanic plateau I could find some every hour at the bottom of melting snow packs.
Snow: the trail was snow-free, just a few passages when ascending/"skiing" down the crater rim
Day 1 (11km)
Bus from Futrono (13.15, ~3k CLP), I stoped at Puerto Maqueo (few km south after Puerto Maihue). Started packrafting around 16.00, about 2hrs with light tailwind. Beautiful views.
Climbed up on the road and found a big clearing on the side (around -40.34426, -72.00433) as the night fell, in front of the cow fields. Flat and nice view.
Day 2 (30km)
In the morning the neighbours came by to check and were nice & welcoming after chatting.
Long ascent on the gravel road with a too heavily loaded backpack... I hitchhiked on 3km with some workers going to the bridge on Rio Nilahue. The landscape gets better in the next valley, I saw Nero and Hector on the road, and reached their house where Erwin opened the gate. He recorded my details in a register and asked for 5k CLP for using their trail (I don't think this was the case before). I also refilled water at the house. Navigation is easy but a bit overgrown (I cleared a bit my sticks). The forest gets much more interesting higher up, huge and scattered trees.
I didn't check the recorded water (?) spots but found ponds in a small canyon at -40.48596, -72.14169 (I wouldn't rely on it later in the season). Very good camping spots at the end of the tree line.
Day 3 (11km)
Short day going to the hot spring on option 1. Combined with a nice and varied route, I'd say it's a must! The green valley with its river is surprising after the barren land (including an exciting geothermal area). The hot spring was such as treat after the rainy misty day!
Day 4 (20km)
Hot spring to Puyehue crater top (01-RR-04A). Best day, mostly sunny with insane views and funny up-down maze. It felt a bit like Iceland and Lappland in places. I stayed a bit more east than 01, staying high up and following ridges down to the new lava field (black). The sun is quite burning up there, even with sunscreen. Reached the bottom of the volcano, refilled water at melting snowpack and decided to climb it and tent on top (04 option / summit), despite the clouds, as the weather in the morning may clear up. Steep 400m elevation climb, strenuous when the ground is super loose with small gravel... The rocky section is faster to climb at some point. I found a flat ground 15m from the summit, slightly protected by rocks, with moderate winds.
Day 5 (17km)
Still in the clouds in the morning... But on my way down on the ridge, it opened up for some seconds and the view was magical with sun spots flowing across the huge crater filled with snow. Worth the climb and patience! I went down a bit earlier than the track (not ascending again around ~2100m) and it was ok to catch up the track. Variant H, perfect, less elevation.
All the way down to Anticura, I stayed at Lodging $$$ (camping 18k CLP, nice cabanas 70k CLP (same price for 1 or 2, can accommodate up to 6). Restaurant was good and not too expensive (14-18k CLP for fish or meat main).
* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''2025-11-19 to 2025-11-22 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Options D and E / Daniel.s'''</span>
Coming from GPT 18 I did all my food shopping in Curriñe and put in on a calm Lago Maihue at S 40° 15.151', W 072° 00.692'.
I crossed the lake to paddle the western shoreline and camped at S 40° 19.810', W 072° 00.785'. There was a storm forecast for the night and I found a disused MR just behind the beach to "fasten down the hatches". It also connects by foot to the RP hiking section.
Day 2 I prepared for a long and tedious road hike, but got a lift to Bridge, Gate {19} [15.6/319] (Locked Gate Fundo Carren, Rio Chilcoco) very soon, and only 2 minutes later another lift all the way to Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue).
ATTENTION!!! THE ROAD SECTION BETWEEN THE TWO POINTS IS ONE BIG CONSTRUCTION SITE FOR THE NEXT 3 YEARS! So camping at Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue) like some did before is impossible as of now.
Since I arrived early I started hiking uphill said hello to Hector (he did not open the path through his land yet) and hiked all the way to Water ? {19} [53.7/1344] where I camped.
!!! BOTH WATER SOURCES CARRY VERY LITTLE WATER ALREADY AND ALL SNOW IS GONE UNTIL YOU REACH THE TREELINE!!!
DAY 3 I hiked across the plateau, very little snow (trail as in GPS is virtually snow free) except for the section along the crater, which was still mostly covered. After Pass {19} [69.9/1764] there's very little snow again. The last water before the refugio is as indicated. I continued from the refugio down to fill my water at Water {19} [76.1/844] and camped shortly after on the first flat spot I found.
Day 4 it took only one hour to reach the main road at Lican and I was lucky enough that 10 minutes later the bus to entre Lagos passed by (2k clp, weekdays ~7:30, Saturday and Sunday ~9:00 am)
* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''2025-01-18 to 2025-01-120 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''</span>.
- To get to llifen from Puerto fuey will take half a day at least.
- Lake Maihue was calm even though I started at 11
- Road walking after the lake is boring may better hitchike.
- Near the bridge over the river Nilahue is good camping and fishing spot.
- There is another campspot with water from river halfway up to Neri and hector
- The gate from Neri house was closed but you can yell or call Erwin bustos : +56973064535. He lives with them now
- First part from Neri's house is overgrown after that you enter a beautiful old growth forest with huge trees
- Hot springs are nice! Plus is usefull for water. If you are tired: around ,4 km before the hot springs you can camp with water . So you don't have to Cary your backpack to the hot springs .
* Geysers are beautiful just watch out where you step and the vulcanic landscape is beautiful
* Water sources differ per month. The orange ones (the not sure ones) were dry but I found other water sources. And there was still plenty of snow 19th of January.
* You need a good hat and long sleeves against the sun. I covered my whole body but I burned my hands badly.
* The refugio has no water so fill up before if you plan to camp there
- You can summit the Vulcano next morning without your gear.
- Second water source on the way down did not have water
- If you want to skip section 20 you have to hitchike. There is only a bus in the morning
==Season 2024/25==
31-MAR-2025 to 06-APR-2025 / 7 days / hiking / NOBO / RR, Variant B / Ben, Stephanie
Route from Licán to Rupameica Bajo on Lago Maihue and then to Caicayén across the spectacular Volcán Puyehue, lava flows, geysers
Several people have cabanas on offer in Caicayen; just walk the highway and you will see the signs
* '''2025-03-10 to 2025-03-16 / 6 Days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + 2A / Tim + Magdalena'''
In an effort to do GPT19 without all the road walking we ascended from the south on the RR and chose option 2A to descend to Parque Futangue Sector Riñinahue. TLDR: DO NOT DO THIS, check Natalie+Tomás reports for much better alternatives with little roadwalking.
It's arduous, monotonous, VERY slow climbing over multiple km's of boulder field with crumbling, loose rocks. We both had a few very close calls with rocks crumbling away under us, moss sliding off the boulders and even huge boulders tipping away under our feet. We expected the 6km (as the crow flies) to take us maybe 5 hours of walking. We actually needed around 15 hours over two days. (Our speed was 200-500 Meter/hour according to our GPS) Luckily we had just enough food. You might think surely there's some parts with gravel or sand making for faster walking? But no, absolutely not. All water, sand and gravel is disappearing between the boulders. The water resurfaces for a while at 1040m of elevation, but then the basin is immediately covered by 2-3m high bushes. In the dry parts, we had to make some long detours to get water.
Once on the MR in Futangue there's a very well fenced off bridge at S 40.41942°, W 072.25140°. The fence is meant to keep guests inside the main area of the park, only guided tours go further.
We climbed over the 3m high fence. It would be impossible to get your backpack over alone and if they lock it a bit more tightly it would be completely impossible. I don't think the river in the canyon below is fordable.
The option to descend to Futangue will be removed in future GPT track files as I understand it.
Much more enjoyable and safer connections to the west of Puyehue are possible, as described by Natalie + Tomás. We also met a guided group on horses going over a pass to the west, probably the same way as them.
*'''' 2025-03-13 to 2025-03-16 / 4 days / Hiking/ NOBO / RR, 02A, 02C, 01 / Peggy
Having already completed this section in SOBO some time ago, I will just point out a few important things.
At Lican, it is possible to eat at señora Olivia’s place (on the main road, house with a sign saying “pan amasado, empanada, hospedaje”) and to stay overnight for 20k.
At the start of the trail, Santiago asked me for 10k (for the maintenance of the path leading to the refuge and for the refuge itself) and my personal information (name, surname, and passport number). He also asked me to send him a message via WhatsApp once I had reached the other side.
I camped a little above the water source at km 71.8. Incredible view of Tronador and the Antillanca, Casablanca, Puntiagudo, and Osorno volcanoes. Best avoided in case of wind (be careful, the wind can pick up during the night…).
I found water here (40.562969S, 072.142607W), but it wasn’t there less than a month before (rain and snow from the past week).
I highly recommend option 02A along the ridges. It is magnificent, with exceptional views. No navigation issues, even though everything is in BB and almost without footprints (this option is rarely taken). Some steep climbs and/or descents at the beginning and end. I would recommend doing it in SOBO for the views, as you walk towards the volcano, but in NOBO, as I did, it also works as long as you stop often and turn around!
For the hot springs, the exact point is here: 40.46720S, 72.13322W. Often crowded on weekends (people arriving on horseback). A bit dirty near the springs 😢 (empty alcohol bottles). But the pool is worth it!
On the way back down to the RR, before reaching Neri and Hector’s place (km 45.4), I found water here (40.435404S, 072.114426W) and here (40.434905S, 072.114245W). I camped nearby, hidden in the forest.
The entire section through the forest is very beautiful, enchanting.
I was preparing to descend to join section 18 via the RR, hoping to hitch a ride. But seeing many trucks coming down from the other side, I finally asked one of them for a ride and made my way down with several trucks/cars and some walking until Llifen, then Maihue. Not sure it was the best option.
*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-21 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR +OH 02 / chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Osorno to termas de Puyehue at 3PM. From there we hitchhiked to the camping Catrue (18000 for one tent).
Day 1 : we walked along the road until the Santiago's property where we had to pay 15000 per person. Then we started walking in the valdivian forest, until the refugio where there wasn’t water. We met Sophie and Gaspar and decided to walk together. Water at every points indicated on Locus because there was patchs of snow. We camped closed to the water point S 40° 34.596', W 072° 08.064'
We decided to climb the volcano and we didn’t follow exactly the OH 04A but we prefered to take the steepless route on the right. Amazing wiew at the top, no difficulty to climb.
Day 2 : we followed the RR, and no water until the Hector and Neri's property so you have to be careful and carry lot of water. We slept there and for 5000 per personn we could have water and use, a hot shower and use his stove to cook.
Day 3 : RR and option 02 up to Rininahue. Gravel road then paved road, quite boring. There we hitchhiked up to Futrono where we took a bus to Valdivia. Bus every hours.
*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-22 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH D / Dorota'''
Day 1: I took a bus at 2 p.m. in Llifen to Rupumeica Bajo. The first day I started at 4 p.m so it was short. I spent the night at about km 24 of RR near the river (-40.35916, -71.98513). After camp 31.4, there is no possibility to put up a tent. There was a bus at 8.30 going down from Rupumeica.
Day 2: It was a little boring, but I decided not to hitchhike. I put up a tent at km 1.5 of variant D but without water. At the beginning of variant D, there is a gate where there is information about cámaras.
Day 3: I continued variant D and at km 3.5 of variant D, where you have three options, I continued straight. It was a really good way through the forest. At point -40.47719, I found something like a refugio and inside were bottles with water. I was lucky because at point 53.5 and 53.7 there was no water. Night at the plateau at km 68 with water from snow. A little windy but not too much.
Day 4: The water was bad, so unfortunately I did not climb the volcano. I reached point 81.4 km at 1 p.m so a day was very short.
*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / 02, RR, D, 01, 04A, 04B / Peggy
I wanted to start with the 02A, but upon arriving, I realized I was entering the Futangue park (15k entrance fee) where I was not allowed to camp or go any further. Maybe I should have lied, but with a tortoise-like backpack, it felt complicated to say I was just out for a day hike!
So, I took the 02, which is a PR (public route) up to Venados.
Until the D variant, there are 3 water points: 40.237656S, 072.051233W (hole in a pipe), 40.239298S, 072.054975W (both are close to each other), and 40.244853S, 072.066878W with the possibility of camping (check if the water is easily accessible?).
On the 01, up to the hot springs, there’s water at a spot used as a campsite with access to the river and a campfire (40.239298S, 072.106674W).
The hot springs, as mentioned before, are located about 500m before the point on the map. There should be several spots. I personally found a source of boiling water and lay down in the warm river, alternating between the scalding hot and lukewarm, surrounded by plants, flowers, and bumblebees! :)
The 01 that continues from the hot springs along the ridge is definitely worth it. I really liked it.
Throughout this section, navigation is very straightforward, even in BB (bush bashing).
I had planned to climb the Peyehue volcano and do a crater loop the next day, but with the weather forecast predicting bad conditions, I decided to take the 04A with my big backpack to avoid having to go back down. It was an intense climb, tortoise-style! But the splendid view of the crater made the difficult ascent worth it. I descended a bit before the track of the 04A descent, cutting across to the RR.
There’s water at the point marked on the map at km 71.8, and it’s possible to camp there, though the ground is very soft and wet. I preferred to head to the El Caulle refuge, where I met an Israeli and an Englishwoman. It’s a sheltered place with lots of wood around for a fire, either outside or inside in the stove. There are also dry toilets. For water, it might be a good idea to bring some from the last water point in SOBO at km 71.8, but there’s also a small "estero" behind the dry toilets, down in the ravine (be careful on the descent and ascent!).
The next day, I woke up early to climb the volcano via the 04B, but about 200m from the crater, I had to give up due to the intense wind.
The weather turned to rain and strong winds, so I stayed another night at the refuge with my new friends.
Then, having caught a cold from my adventure on the volcano in the wind and a "walk" down to get water at km 71.8 (!) I stayed alone for another day and night, which gave me the chance to see and understand the sign on one of the windows: "estero" with an arrow, and I went to that water source!
'''2025-Feb-05 to 2025-Feb-10 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1 & 2 / Chris & Diana
'''
Wikiexplora deleted our log, as two were editing the same section parallel which it cant handle. Therefore a bit more streamlined next try...
Bus via Lago Ranco to Riñanahue. Schedule: facebook.com/profile.php?id=100087840261554
Camped at lovely calm site for 7kCLP pp
maps.app.goo.gl/b1rKAqLmmXtf6gQm8, +56 9 7511 3562
There is a super nice supermarked with most one could wish for incl. local cheese.
Bus to Pichico at approx 12:00 (apparently started in Rio Bueno?).
Otherwise Uber Riñinahue:
+56920616903
+56973752096
+56998506088
Started our hike at los vernados, tried to avoid hectors property but due to lack of water had to return. Everyone super lovely & nice. Shower & camping for 15kCLP total. The dogs arent dangerous (two young ones chained, one old one Pelao just barks and can barely walk). All of em cuties once you are unlocked as an amigo by Erwin.
Erwin: +56973064535
Hectors son hector parra raddatz: +56 9 9390 0644
Avoiding could be: camp at last good spot at [S 40.408118 W 072.111271] with water. Take option that crosses back to RR, mid way you cross another stream, thats the last for a while.
Didnt check both water ? Marks.
First water after that is [S 40.491149 W 072.157324] shortly before the crossing to the hotsprings (fed by snowfield).
In between at [S 40.487550 W 072.148084] 4 condors and an eagle chilling. Many feathers there suggest they like chilling there, so approaching this spot carefully could yield nice pictures.
At hot spring there is on the right hand side of the valley close to/in the riverbed 3 holes with cold freshwater.
Entel coverage at the highest "peak" before descending to the plateau and the final traverse along the volcan, where option [03d] splits off, therefore at marking gpt19-03d end.
Until first water ? mark at the volcano there is only occasionally some driplets from snowfields. Second water ? Mark didnt yield water for us.
After the "final" water mark before the refugio there is one more stream, a bit closer. At the refugio itself we didnt see water, chilenos said there is some a bit up, inside the "valley"-ish crevasse. We didnt check.
On descend first water mark had water, second didnt. In the valley there is some again.
The camping ground at the end of the trail looks really good, might be nice for a night.
Hitchhiking a bit difficult because cars are plenty and fast but managed after half an hour straight to Osorno.
Wonderful diverse section with many great highlights but requires a bit water planning and carrying liters over long distances. 10/10 recommend!
Volcano warnings: sernageomin.cl
Forrest fire warnings: conaf.cl/incendios/situacion-actual-y-pronostico-de-incendios/
* '''2025-02-02 to 2025-02-05 / 3 days / Packrafting & Hiking / SOBO / RP, RR, Option D, Option E, RR , Option 1, RR, Option 4 (Puyehue ascent), RR / Lucie and Thomas '''
Transportation:
On Sunday we took the bus at 1:15pm from Futrono to Rupumeica (only other bus at 8pm). No bus on Sunday to Rininahue.
Week days:
Futrono-Rupumeica at 1:15pm, 4:45pm, 5:45pm, 7pm y Futrono-Rininahue at 12:30pm, 4:10pm, 6:30pm.
Saturday:
Futrono-Rupumeica: 1:15pm, 4:45pm, 5:45pm.
Futrono-Rininahue: 12:30pm.
Afternoon day 1:
From Rupumeica bajo, a boat was supposed to leave at 3:45pm to Carran (Melipue on OSM) or 3:10pm from Maqueo but we didn't see it. We had planned anyway to packraft lago Maihue following the second part of RP which we did as weather conditions were great. We went into the water at -40,31745, -71,99077 (beach) until Carran.
Hiked following the RP until it meets RR at the road. During this part, we were kindly reminded that the area was private by the owner (the path itself seemed okay).
Hitchhicked until bridge over Nilahue where we filled up water. Important: Nilahue is the last water until the volcanic plateau at this period.
Camped at -40,40128, -72,09428 (hidden from the road but no view and no water).
Day 2:
RR with option D & E to avoid the barrier and dogs. Entering the park we found this phone contact: +56 963659730 but didn't get any answer. Didn't see anyone.
First water of the day at -40,49031, -72,16550 (small, melting snow). The second and proper one (river) started at -40,48767, -72,17619.
Continued on RR until taking option 1 to the hot springs which are definitely worth the extra miles !
Day 3:
We followed the east part of option 1 (very scenic) until reaching RR which we followed until Puyehue summit ascent. We slept next to Refugio El Caulle which does not have water indeed. Water can be found at -40,61123 -72,14355 (~40min back and forth from the refuge) if you forget to fill before like us.
Wonderfull views all along the day !
Day 4 morning :
Way down to 215 following RR, where we did not managed to hitchhike (if you need a taxi you can call Juvenal from Entre Lagos +56 931078640)
'''2025-Jan-24 to 2025-Jan-27 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1 / Nimrod & Tamar
'''
Snow - a few patches but was doable for us without spikes.
Water -
-water? [53.7/1344] was a small dirty pond. A few hundred meters after this waypoint there is currently a lot of water from snow melt.
-on the way to hot spring on option 01 there is currently a lot of water.
-after the hot spring in option 1, last water was at (-40.54266, -72.16335). Next water currently at (-40.59190, -72.13565).
Random Cool things along the way-
-Chaura berries- were flourishing! Delicious!! Different taste for each bush
-condor- saw one up close before the pass near the volcan. he sat on the ground also! Such a huge creature! Maybe has a nest there.
-geyser- look for the waves in the water forming from boiling.
Transportation:
We skipped from the end of section 10. Took a few buses: Gulalli-Los Angeles-Valdivia-Futrono-Rupameica Bajo.
Valdivia to Futrono there is a bus approx once an hour.
From Futrono to Rupameica Bajo we took a bus at 16:40.
The final stop is at waypoint X [13.3/144].
We camped on the beach at approx ( -40.31745, -71.99078). We were alone on the beach although it was weekend.
In details:
1st day:
The MR was nice and at parts was not maintained and was more like a trail until approx km 18. After that it becomes a maintained road and for us boring.
We hitchhiked with the first vehicle we saw and he took us to (-40.38622, -72.08066).
We hiked to refuge [45.4/537] and camped there. We paid 5000 clp each and wrote our details.
Neri kindly offered to use their shower.
2nd day:
The trail head from the refuge is overgrown and we used the GPS to find and follow the first 100 meters. Later it becomes better but the whole trail is an overgrown MR, which made it a beautiful hike. There were a few fallen trees which blocked the trail but it wasn't hard to find the trail around them.
We checked both water points at km 53. There were small dirty ponds and we collected water from [53.7/1334]. We regretted doing it because a few hundred meters later there are tons of small streams from melting snow, staring at ( -40.48990, -72.15184).
Geyser at ( -40.49555, -72.16049) was really nice.
We took option 01 to the hot springs. The CC/TL was clear and easy.
The hot RIVER starts 500 meters before the waypoint. We checked the waypoint but the water was less warm then upstream, so we camped upstream and had warm night bath.
The temperature was perfect for us.
3rd day:
We took another bath in the morning and started hiking late.
There was rain forecast so we stopped early and camped at (-40.325713',-072.097432'). There was a small water stream from melting snow.
There was also another "geyser" on a hill close to where we camped.
The night was horrible! It was very windy and the sand didn't hold the tent pegs. Our tent almost broke from the wind in the middle of the night so we had to put big rocks on the pegs. Finally the wind died and we and our tent survived :)
4th day:
Woke up to a cloudy day so we understood we are not going to climb the volcano.
We connected back to the RR.
On the RR there were sometimes poles marking the trail but there was no trail to follow. There were some snow patches on the route that slowed us down but were not hard to cross.
There was only snow but no water at water waypoints at km 68.6 and 69.2.
We collected water at (-40.59190, -72.13565).
There was water at the waypoint at 71.8 as well. Approximately after this waypoint there are patches of grass which make the trail more visible and easy to hike.
We finished late so we decided to stay in Lican. Cabaña for 2 cost us 40000 clp. We had a burger for 2500 CLP.
Took a bus in the morning to Osorno at 7:30- the host helped us with calling the bus in advance so it will know to stop (there's only one bus a day).
The whole area is magical! As if witches live under the ground and boil thier potions, while above the souls of ice roam between the lava fields.
* ''' 2025-JAN-11 > 13 / 3 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 19-01 > 19-02C > 19-02A > RR > 19-04A > 19-04B > 19-04 > RR / Pierre-Marie '''
JAN-14>JAN-15 : Repos Osorno
J'ai commandé sur Amazon un filtre pour ma gourde, des pointes pour mes bâtons et des chaussures (taille 47) car introuvable en magasin. J'ai écrit l'adresse de la poste comme étant mon adresse. Mes 3 colis sont en dépôt 5 jours ouvrés dans une agence Chilexpress dans le centre ville. J'ai bien tout reçu.
*'''2025-JAN-12 to 2025-JAN-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. 03 + 03-A) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''
The stage begins mostly along a road, which had relatively heavy traffic on Sunday evening. Around Lake Maihue, there is a fence, but there are gaps with paths leading to the beach. Swimming in the lake was very pleasant. The water was warmer than we expected.
On the first evening, we camped at the ford over Rio Hueinahue [10.9/116] at coordinates -40.31647, -71.97186. There is a nice abandoned campsite here with a dry toilet, tables, and several fire pits. The ford [10.9/116] we crossed in the morning is long, but the current isn’t strong, and the water isn’t deep. After the ford, we didn’t follow the trackfiles but instead took the trail directly west (there’s a marked path in OpenStreetMap data), which turned out to be easy and without any issues, except for a gate at the connection to the road.
We considered taking Variant C but decided to stay on the RR and didn’t regret it. Passing through wild forests along a deeply cut path forming tunnels with leafy ceilings was worth the extra elevation gain. The rest of the route to Los Venados (km 39) is uneventful, and the trail moves quickly.
At kilometer 39.1, we chose Variant 03. Along the way, there are several gates, some for cattle but primarily marking the boundary of the private nature reserve Centrafuerte. The most prominent gate is at coordinates -40.39993, -72.08501, and it should be there a phone number to call for access to the reserve. We missed the number, climbed over the gate, and met the reserve staff later. The entry fee is 12,000 CLP per person, and entry is limited to 20 people per day. We had no issues with the limit, but in peak summer (February), it’s said to fill up quickly.
The trail is comfortable and well-maintained. It passes through a dead forest where all the trees dried out due to the 2011 eruption and the subsequent pyroclastic flow. The MR doesn’t follow the track files toward the end and ends at coordinates -40.510827, -72.118630, where there’s a shelter with tables, seating, toilets, and an information board with a satellite map of the area. Close to this spot are the hot springs (-40.510952, -72.123191)—bathing is directly in the stream, with a very pleasant water temperature. There’s also a simple shelter for changing clothes.
From the hot springs, we continued along the ridge between streams, and after a slightly wild and steep climb, we joined OH 03-A, which we followed to the connection with the RR.
The first flowing water after crossing the volcanic plain was at coordinates -40.59190, -72.13565.
The Refugio [73.8/1378] is in good condition—clean and well-maintained, with a stream running below it.
The final descent passes through beautiful Valdivian rainforests.
From the end of the stage, we hitchhiked to resupply in Entre Lagos. At the edge of the town, there’s a large supermarket called Iguazu. Hitchhiking required patience, but in the end, it wasn’t a problem.
* '''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-0 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO/ Completely new option, RR / Natalie & Tomáš'''
Nats Notes: Ridge of 02A & Rim circuit
Although very happy to have reached the final summit, my happiness strangely turned a little sad. As I marveled at the landscape that has become my friend over the last three years, I realized this was probably the last time I would see it at this magnitude. So much time has been spent with Tomáš investigating and executing ways up and down these mountains, it seems crazy that I may never look upon them again. So, that was a weird thought but overall it was very beautiful. I waited over an hour on top, I thought Tomáš was planning on going to this peak but when I found out he was on the other peak I made my way down to the cute camping spot at the Refugio, stopping to drink some water from a creek along the way (likely not running in the morning). The way down from the regular summit is easy and there is basically a path that sees regular traffic. I would recommend taking this way if you do not like climbing steep slopes, rather than the other alternatives.
==Season 2022/23==
* '''2023-Feb-04 to 2023-Feb-07 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena''' Great section, after a lot of forrest trails it was nice to see again something totally different and quite similiar to the landscape of GPT06. We were a little irresponsible with the water so better plan carefully. The beginning around the lake is just road walking with quite a lot of traffic, depending on the weekday, but its better to avoid it, we didn’t feel always safe with more cars passing by. There should be ferry that goes on the other side of the lake. Good restaurant at around km 2-3, the one with empanadas to go in the house above the restaurant (reealy good). We camped behind a gate at km 5.7, below one of the miradors. At Hueinahue we went down to the beach we have seen from the road, hoping to buy some food, but nothing was there except of crowds of people. We crossed the river to get back on the road, but it would have been better to return back really. MR continues for the next almost 30km, but its quite nice walking through forrest and around settlements. Food truck with empanadas and some drinks at km 23 was a nice surprise, but might be there only in summer. Great place to camp by laguna at km 31, but its shores are all muddy. Bridge at km 37 is the last reliable source of water so keep it in mind! When we got to the start of option 03, there was only locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Because of that we went with 03, and after 2 locked gates joined the CC variant and back on the RR. There is probably some tiny stream at the CC part but not easily accessible. The way up on the RR already was relatively easy with a few fallen trees that you can always walk around. We were hoping to find some water at km 53.5 or the one next to it but it was all dry already, just like many creeks that we have seen over the treeline. This became a problem for us, and the first water we found was at the big plateau you have to descent to in order to continue to the lava field and further. We didnt turn left at the beginning but continued straight to a few snowfields that are still big enough and on a hot day we could gather water from the snowmelt. From that point its about half a day to the next water (close to the start of descent down to the refugio and valley) so again good to take as much as you can. We didn’t have to pay anything at the end of the section as someone told us, this might be the case only in NOBO direction, or it was because we went there later in the evening. We camped on a yard of family living across the road for 5k CLP, they sell some basic food and its possible to have a shower there as well. Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask. Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka * '''2023-JANFEB-10 - 2023-JANFEB-13 / 3 days / hiking / RR + volcan summit + termas - round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''
I wanted to precise one thing that I haven't understand : Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).
Day 4 - Back to Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m A long day, even longer under the rain but doable. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.
* '''2023-JAN Feb-04 to 2023-Feb-07 / Frank 3.5 days / Option OH-001 crossing Rio CorrigueHiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena''': this section barely exists as large parts have been taken back by bamboo. It is now a severe & sustained bamboo bash requiring huge effort to crawl, break & climb through at about 1 kilometre per hour. Try RR or other options instead.
* '''2023-JAN-28 - 2023-JAN-30 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''
The path down from the Refugio is in good conditions. From Licán we got a ride directly to Puerto Montt.
* '''2023-Jan-05 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank'''
I came from GPT18. Before Lago Maihue there are a couple of small shops & a restaurant. As you go around Lago Maihue on the road there are a lot of $ campsites, then the road climbs high above the lake before dropping to Rio Hueinahue. I forded the river easily & went down to Camping Rupimeca at the lake, about 1KM off route. Good cheap campsite, no electricity but they will charge your phone at the house. Next day I continued to Hector & Neri's house but they weren't around. I went in on the alternative route which goes right on a road just before Hector & Niri's place. It's marked private with two locked gates but there was no one there. Stream near the road but difficult to access - running in a gully & blocked by vegetation. After several attempts I was able to access the stream higher up & camped nearby. Just before the alternative route rejoins the RR from Hector & Niri's house there is a stream, if you drop down right a few hundred metres from RR onto the alternative route here you can get water. The water sources marked near the treeline were tiny stagnant pools & they are a bit off trail. However, in early January there was plenty of water above treeline from snowmelt. Did the spectacular traverse in one long day. The snowfields could be traversed or avoided fairly easily. Fill up with water before you descend to the hut. There was no water at the hut & on the trail out to the road the marked water sources were only tiny trickles. Carry a few litres of water up to the hut if you are NOBO. There was no one at the entrance & I hitched out to Entre Lagos.
* '''6 to 8 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT19 RR SOBO / via GPT19-02 / 2.5 days
Route: Riñinahue - Los Venados - Refugio El Caulle - summit of Volcán Puyehue - Anticura'''
I loved seeing the drastic change in landscape and ecosystems on this section, from the life-filled rainforest to the stark desert-like altiplano.
From Panguipulli, I took the first bus to Los Lagos, which left at 8:40 a.m. There was no bus from Los Lagos to Futrono, so I hitchhiked instead. Then from Futrono I took a bus to Llifen, then hitched the rest of the way to Riñinahue. I wanted to start this section from Riñinahue (Option 2) in order to shave off some of the road walking on the Regular Route. I was lucky and caught a ride all the way to the bridge at km 37.3 over Río Nilahue. Getting to the trail took most of the day. I began to hike south on the regular route around 5 p.m.
I met Neri and Hector, very kind people. At first Hector was apprehensive about letting me hike onward because I was alone. But after explaining how far I'd walked and showing him my GPS and SPOT device, he agreed to let me through the park. I wrote down my name and contact info in the book/registry he keeps with Neri. I dry camped about a kilometer beyond their house.
After Hector and Neri's place, the path stops being MR and becomes TR through the lush Valdivian rainforest. Trail is in good condition. There are a few blowdowns, but they are relatively easy to go around, climb over, or crawl under.
The "water ?" waypoint north of the trail before the treeline is just a few shallow pools of stagnant water. It was cold and clear though, so I collected 2 litres for the upcoming Puyehue plateau. I didn't investigate the other "water ?" to the south. I definetly didn't have to carry that much, because I soon discovered the plateau still has many snow patches, and so there are lots of little snowmelt trickles pretty regularly. This may no longer be the case in a few weeks though.
The altiplano is desolate and beautiful, very reminiscent of Section 6. I found there was a decent path and footprints to follow up until the junction at km 56.1. There are impressive azufreras there! Afterwards it's all cross-country. I had no navigation issues. I found the terrain got more physically demanding the closer I got to the volcano, and climbing in and out of steep-walled dry arroyos was tiring.
The "water ?" at 68.6 km was flowing nicely. The next "water ?" at 69.2 km was non-accessible, because the ravine where it is located is currently covered by a giant snowfield. You'd have to go down quite a bit to get to where the water trickles out. There will be water there a long time, I'd say.
The "pass" waypoint was confusing to me, because I saw nothing there that looked like a pass. It's just a long traverse on the mountainside. About a kilometer south of this "pass" though, a trail reappears and it lasts all the way to the refugio El Caulle.
The weather was looking a bit unsettled, cloudy and windy, and I didn't know if it would rain or not, so I did a long day and camped at the refugio (the volcanic flank is quite exposed). I collected lots of water at the waypoint at km 71.8, so I didn't check to see if the spring below the refugio was running or not.
Early the next morning, the weather looked good, so I left most of my gear at camp and climbed Puyehue following Option 4. There are cairns most of the way up, and other footsteps/tracks to follow. It gets a bit steep in some places, but nothing too crazy. Poles definitely helped and having a light backpack too. The 800-m climb is definitely worth it! Amazing to see the surrounding mountains and valley clouds in the early morning light. Like Quetrupillan, the crater of Puyehue is filled with snow and ice. The climb from the refugio to the summit took me 1h45 min, including a short water/breakfast break on the way up. Downhill was easier and less sketchy than I expected, and that took an hour.
From El Caulle down to the road is a clear path, sometimes steep, down through the forest. The two water sources there were pretty much dry, just a bit of stagnant and muddy water. It has been very dry this past month, almost no rain. I crossed the gates at Santiago's house at the end, I didn't see anyone and no one charged me entry for the park. I hitched easily to Entre Lagos and will be skipping down to GPT22.
==Season 2021/22==
* '''Feb 2020 / Matthieu / RR + ascent of the summit + OH to the Hot Springs, Northbound'''
Great section, amazing views, no technical difficulties with the trails and cross country..
- '''Water supply''' : NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west.All the west flank of the volcano is full of little stream coming from the snow. On this part no difficulties. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow. There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river).Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after. - '''Optionnal roads''' : For the ascent of the volcano, I personnaly , on advice of Santiago, let my tent along the river "Water 145", souther from the waypoint. There are some flat places nice for the tent. From here you can go straight to the top, no technical difficulties. For the Hot springs (nice experience, but the valley is full of tabaño at this season, so prefer arriving at the sunset to enjoy the water after !) : To go to the valley, I took a path that was on the touristic map but not on the GPT tracks. AFter the dry lake just before div 126 I followed the RR tracks up the hill, going east, and after I quitted the trqcks to go down directly to a little canyon, seeming to be a dry river. Really interessant path, and really easy, all flat in the canyon.It goes directly north and join the OH-TL-1901#001, making a triangle with the GPS tracks. There is a couple of hours walking after, in a nice green valley (plenty of water) until the hot springs. To enjoy the hot springs, I would recommend not to go (as I did) to the waypoint that will drive you in the closed canyon. The rocks in water are full of foam, and the feeling is really not good. I found a good place to camp and bath going back the next day, with traces of camping. About 300m before the waypoint hot springs, Just after the OH track makes a sort of right angle, the river take a shape of sharp angle and there is sand in the found of the river to sit and enjoy without slipping (GPS point of this site :S40°28.036' / W072°12.519'). To go back I followed the OH tracks until the RR, passing by the Geysers. - '''Rivercrossing''' : one, the Rio Hueinahue. The GPS tracks are a good place to cross, going there the rocks before a rapid The river is very large thow, and the rocks slippery. When I passed I had maximum water a little bit above the knees. It is easier to see the good path in the river arriving southbound, because the road is up the river,but it is not so clear going northbound, If you are not confident with rivers, there are bridges up the road, not very far. Better not take useless risks. - '''Ressupply locations''' : Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue. * '''2020-Feb-19 / Martina & Ivo / Regular route southbound (start: km 37, end: Anticura)''' 2.5 days. Actually we wanted to hike from Riñinahue, so we took a random Bus in Osorno (09:20) to Río Bueno, where there was a connecting Bus to Lago Ranco, where there was another connecting Bus to Riñinahue, and this one continued - to our astonishment - to the bridge over Río Nilahue, where the optional route meets the regular route. We found water in the forest at both waypoints "water?", but we went after a period of heavy rain. The "water?" before the pass is still flowing and there is a lot of snow left to keep it flowing. The section was unexpectedly physically demanding but extremely beautiful! In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy... * '''10-02-2020 / Ty/ RR SOBO/ 3 Days'''I got lucky and got a ride all the way up to Los Venados. I went around Hectors house and camped up before tree line. There’s a bit of water still up there, just a few strong trickles though. I thought they would stay running for a while. Then for day 2 I went to the refuge, with a slight detour to the rim of the volcano. Definitely recommend. The “water?“ at RR-CC-A@19-68.0+3.7 seemed to have plenty in it at the time as well. At the rim a cloud came in and made navigation pretty tricky, but easily managed. Nice refuge with campsites outside. Spring still running. Tables and everything! Overall, an amazing section. From the end I hitched up to Antillanca optional Start for the next section. * '''16-01-2020 / Arnaud Debilly / Southbound 4 / full days''' We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there.To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo. We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.Then the road ends and starts the path to cross the pass to rupumeica alto. Then you follow the minor road until los Venados. The road is blocked by barriers that we crossed easily. At los Venados the path is clearly private and is along the house of Hector. We met him and his wife and they easily let us go through.We overcarried water because we feared the lack of drinkable water. Until almost the treeline, you can hear little rivers not too far from the path. We also drunk melted snow at the top so we had enough.Later in the season, it might be drier (I assume, those little rivers come from the snow melting). The last real rio is just before los venados.After the forest, the volcanic terrain is very easy to walk in and the landscapes are wonderful. We saw many smokes from the volcanic activity but seemed not dangerous. Check the status of the volcano before to go (www.sernageomin.cl).Following the track, it is easy to go between the lava field.Campsites are absolutely great, with an amazing view on the vulcano.We felt an earthquake (5,2) that has been localized near san martin de los andes in Argentinia but it made nothing dangerous with the volcano, luckily.We have had a perfect blue sky without wind during the 2 days on top, it could not have been better.The refugio El Caulle, at the start of the downhill can be a good protection for a bad weather. We found a little spring, to resupply water in the dry rio just under the refugio.On the volcanic terrain, a bad weather changes everything and it must be really difficult and unpleasant to finish this section with rain, snow or wind and without the view.It was for us the most wonderful section we have had until today. * '''January 2020 / The Puyehue Traverse - GPT19''' Okay. This is my first conditions report. I walked the Puyehue Traverse with my parents over the last week. It is basically the last part of GPT19, starting on the rd to Héctor y Neri's (Los Venados)(phone beforehand to secure permission : +569 81868927). Let me know if I should structure it differently in the future. Getting to the Los Venados from OsornoWe caught the bus first to Rio Blanco, another to Largo Ranco. We then lucked out that the Riñinahue bus happened to be passing through! I think this is only once a day and goes all the way to the turn off to Cruce Pichico (3.8km from the turnoff to Los Venados). Again we were lucky and managed to hitch a ride (with two anthropologists!). A car past telling us they (Héctor and Neri) weren't home so we took the bypass - not sure if this is private or not? We made camp by some water for the night. Up into the parkThere is more water available if you're willing to walk off the main track. Numerous times I heard water off to the sides. The first water close to the track was after you pass the national park sign where marked in the section pts. Then above the treeline there are better sources available from the snow melt (better and more numerous later in the day). From the geothermal site we side tripped into the valley for a day and came back along the ridge to the SW. The valley has a lot of streams and some great camp spots. You could even do a shortish 2hr detour to camp in the treeline here. We took some slight variations to the optional hiking route. Passing the recent lava flowRejoining the RR at a lake we followed the wall around camping a night part way along. (met four French ppl hiking the GPT here). There is snow, but no really good water sources until you get to the points marked at the base of Volcán Puyehue (first one here -40.59224, -72.13547). Climbing the volcanoIn short. We didn't. We woke to rain and retreated to the refugio. We spent the day cleaning it. So much rubbish! Carried a load down but there is a lot more if anyone feels like it. It snowed overnight. There was snow down to the refugio at 1400m but only persisted to maybe 1600m. We couldn't see the top of the volcano and in the afternoon, with food running low, decided to bail. The hut has a dunny. Getting back into OsornoAfter waiting three hours for a bus we ended up hitching a ride in una camión. He told us we would have been waiting a long time. Maybe one bus a day. Not really sure. But getting there early is a good idea. Coming down you could camp where the rd starts if you want to save money on lodging. We then caught a bus back into Osorno. * '''24-Jan-2020 Tom & Maddie''' Regular route SOBO starting from 37km, 1 day and nero. Incredible section! We had no particular issues. It is possible to collect some water along the traverse after Hector and Neri’s property, however no reliable water sources are available until after the pass. There are some small streams flowing from the snow at the top so finding water is not impossible. We carried 3L per person and it was the right amount of water, including a side trip to the summit not on a track listed in the files. I would recommend doing the whole traverse in one day due to the limited water and the exposed nature of the area. Good weather is preferable, not just for the amazing views but also for safety reasons. The refuge at the other end of the pass is quite nice and a good place to spend the night.
=Resupply and Accommodation=
==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==
*2025 / Antoine
Futrono: several supermarkets, most open on Sundays. But they didn't have screw-type gas canisters. I was lucky to find one at Ferretería O'Higgins Futrono +56 9 6122 5722 (opened just for me, nice guy)
Anticura accomodation:Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]).
Camping (18k CLP, rudimentary, basic showers/WC) and cabanas (with kitchenette, up to 6, 70k CLP onsite (2025)).
Restaurant is nice. About 14-18k CLP for meat/fish main.
*2025 / Peggy
Cabañas en Entre Lagos: Contact Janet (+56963133356)
*2023 / Anna & Christopher
I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !
There's a possibility to eat at the restaurant if of the lodge/cabanas/camping, KM0,00 of the section (Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]). Nice food, good atmosphere. About 14-18k CLP for meat/fish main.They also have camping (18k CLP, rudimentary, basic showers/WC) and cabanas (with kitchenette, up to 6, 70k CLP onsite (2025)).
End of the section is easy to find camping / small mini market and even restaurant/food truck (in between Maqueo and Puerto Maihue (if you go further in Curriñe, there's bigger minimarket, easier o resupply there).
=Transport to and from Route=
* 2025 / Antoine B
Night bus Santiago to Futrono (22.20 - ~11.00, 20k CLP), then bus towards Rupumeica (not sure where it ends) at 13.15 (Sunday), ~ 3k CLP
* 2025 / Peggy
If you don't want to do the Gpt20, you can contact Janet to organize a ride to Las Gaviotas (+56963133356) she has also cabañas in Entre Lagos
*2024 / Matthias de Austria
*You have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago.
* (2025-12-01) Erwin asked 5k CLP to use the RR trail at Neri & Hector's house (they were not present and from other reports it seems like they didn't ask for that fee).
=Links to other Resources=