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→Season 2025/26
==Season 2025/26==
Overall This was my favourite GPT trek to date. Spectacular mountain vistas, lagunas, rivers, streams and springs, waterfalls, glaciers, hot springs, challenging navigation and terrain, volcanoes, wild horses, arrieros, and condors.
A big shout out to Alexey Abramov for providing the track file of his “Desolation Traverse: Los Queñes - Rio Colorado - Descabezado plateau - Central Los Cipreses” (available on WikiLoc), which was super helpful in navigating through difficult cross-country terrain.
Attraction: 5/5 Difficulty: 5/5
Day 1 Caught a bus from Curicó to Los Queñes for CLP 2,500pp. (The bus leaves at 0730, 1130, 1300, 1630, 1830 Mon-Fri; 0730, 1130 and 1630 on Sat, Sun and public holidays)
Arriving early Mon there was little chance of a hitch so we (reluctantly) paid CLP 40,000 for a ride up to the start of Option 1.
Wonderful mountain and lake views on the hike up the road and valley to camp.
The Refuge {05-01} [8.9/2599] (El Planchon Base Camp) was locked but had good camping spots, running water from a hose, and a covered outdoor area with an open fire place (and wood) and enough room to pitch a small tent undercover in bad weather.
Camped at {05-01} [13.2+0.2/2623], which had amazing views but was very exposed and dusty with high gusting wind.
Day 2 Ascended Volcán Planchon on Option 2, which was quite challenging with steep loose scree, and ridge walking close to big drop-offs with a strong cross-wind. 2hrs up. 1.5hrs down on an alternative route to the west of Option 2, which seemed safer, provided some enjoyable scree skiing on soft sand, and joined up with the E/W OSM trail at the foot of the Volcán, to return to the intersection of Options 1 and 2.
Spectacular views of and from the Volcán. Well worth the effort.
Note there was no water until Camp {05-01} [27.8/1670]. However there was plenty of water at this camp, which has a man-made irrigation ditch that channels water close to camp.
Day 3 Joined the RR and forded the Rio Claro at -35.20436, -70.66298, where as Bailey pointed out, there is a clear water stream entering the Rio Claro. The ford was easy, at half calf height.
After the ford there was some enjoyable ridge hiking, with spectacular big mountain views.
Camped at -35.24513, -70.66722, beside a bunch of small bushes, which provided good shelter from northerly winds coming up the valley. Good flowing water in the nearby stream.
Day 4 Very scenic views from pass [41.0/2354] and during the subsequent descent and ascent. Then really spectacular 270 degree views from pass [48.7/2362].
Sketchy very steep technical descent to camp at Rio Negro, with the trail partially washed away in some sections.
Camped by Rio Negro. Camp sites are limited: only for a 2 person and 1 person tent.
Day 5 Easy ford of the Rio Negro in the morning, as the water level dropped substantially overnight. However it was also fordable late afternoon the previous day.
Steep technical descent down from Cuesta La Hormiga, through the Bottleneck.
Then slow going crossing through numerous boulder fields, heading upriver.
Note there is a steep descent down a washout extending towards the Rio Colorado, commencing at the large cairn at -35.34364, -70.64654. The last few metres are a bit tricky to get down from the boulders - head downstream/ west to find the easiest path down to the river flats.
Enjoyed a nice swim in an eddy immediately downstream of the bridge over the Rio Colorado at -35.34734, -70.64363.
The trail becomes easier after the bridge, as it becomes a well travelled cattle trail.
There is a good flowing stream at -35.37310, -70.57358 just before the hot spring at [64.7/2027] (Las Yeguas), also just after, at -35.37194, -70.57043.
Enjoyed a wonderful hot spring and camp at Las Yeguas. There is cold water flowing into the hot spring from a pipe which is probably ok if filtered. We met the family from the nearby puesto who dropped in to use the hot spring. They were friendly and didn’t mind us camping.
Note that in the morning the hot spring was warm, so it’s best to use it in the afternoon, or divert the cold water pipe flowing into the spring the night before.
Day 6 Continued on the RR. The ford of the Rio Valle Grande at [68.1/2057] was easy, at half calf height.
Enjoyed the awesome hot spring at [70.3/2135] (Termas Pellejo), then forded the Rio Colorado a little downstream, at knee height.
Continued the RR, ascending with views of incredible volcanic landscapes, then descended to camp in a gully with a small spring at -35.42381, -70.55906.
Day 7 Hiked up to GPT06 Option 9/ 9A junction, with stunning desolate volcanic terrain along the way, especially the valley of Rio San Pedro (easy ford at [83.0/2340], ankle height).
Lake {05} [80.4/2499] has plenty of water, and there is a good flowing stream before you get there, at -35.41984, -70.59138.
Late in the day climbed Descabezado Chico - no snow but very steep with sand and small loose rock that is fairly well consolidated (ie doesn’t move much when stepped on). Spectacular views from the summit.
Day 8 Continued on GPT06 Option 9. Another day of spectacular big mountain scenery.
Plenty of water in Rio Barroso.
Pass {05-08} [5.2+6.2/3033] has a steep ice field across it including a section of sideways sloping steep ice covering 20m of the trail (viewed in the direction of the trail it was lower to higher, left to right), where micro-spikes were required. I cut steps with the micro-spikes as I crossed. This was a solid but scary traverse where a slip/slide would have been fatal. Alternatively you can bypass the ice by walking above it on very loose rock, which is not recommended.
Camped at -35.54428, -70.75478, below the trail junction of Options 3B and 9, where there are some good camping sites beside the Estero El Volcan, which had a good flow.
Day 9 Traversed Descabezado Grande on GPT06 Option 3B. Spectacular scenery but slow progress on complex volcanic terrain, requiring hours of contouring, ascending and descending.
Luckily Pass {06-3B} [2.7/3124] had no snow or ice.
Ford {06-3B} [5.8/2847] had very little flow with small pools of clean water.
The Quebrada El Descabezado had no water.
Camped at -35.64057, -70.78693.
Day 10 Hiked Option 3 to the RR. Really spectacular views traversing to Pass {06} [59.5/2518] (Hornitos).
On descent from the pass there was a good flowing stream at -35.70283, -70.82520, and at Camp {06} [62.3/1999].
No ford was required at Ford {06} [63.6/1909], as the river is not flowing. Laguna de los Hornitos has a fair amount of water, but it is getting low with algae around the sides.
Climbed Volcan Los Hornitos and walked around the rim - really superb views.
Hiked down to the road. Rio Cipreses was dry in its upper reaches, as the Laguna La Invernada has been dammed for hydro. Dry camped at -35.75345, -70.78590. There is a gate on the road to the Laguna, but it could be passed if you need water. The next water is further away, down the road, at Water {06} [73.7/1014], where there is a good flowing stream.
Day 11 Hiked out to Los Cipreses. The Shop was open at {06-F} [0.5/855]. Hitched easily from the bus stop at {06-F} [0.6/862] to Talca.
*'''GPT06 I 2016-02-02 to 2025-02-07 I 5,5 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: option 6 - 6B - 2 | Chris & Lotte '''
Parque Ingles & El Bolson are, contrary to Conaf Website, not closed! That post from march 2025 is outdated.
We wanted to confirm the exploratory option 6 along Rio Claro and then an unnamed river up to Laguna Caracol towards La Mina but had to change plans and "escape the green hell" (more on that in the facebook group) towards Los Venados via Option 6B.
Option 6: we followed the MR which after a landslide becomes a well-maintained trail. At some point it diverts up the mountain, but asking an arriero (name may have been Otto), he opened one of the gates and told us, thats probably the way we are looking for. The gate was quite strongly marked with no entrado and that it belongs to a David. The trail deteriorated quickly after the last puesto in the woods, but could be followed at times. After the last puesto on the riverbank the trail ends in front of a cliff. Going up or around did not seem feasible, but the ford was quite simple. The OSM-trail on the other side can be taken therefore instead, which is well-maintained until the Puesto of Roberto. After that there is a nice camp spot. We recommend trying this way.
Fording to get back to the trail was tricky. We searched long until we found a feasible ford and had to abort one try at anlther location. This ford was quite strong and still high and may have been possible due to the draught. In a wetter year it should be carefully assessed.
The 70m to the trailhead were a initiation to what was about to come. We battled through. Out of nowhere the trail appeared. Overgrown, but mostly visible.
At times it gets lost in forrests, where fierce battles took place. After reaching the riverbed again, the trail got nicer, at times even marked by stones.
One more overgrown valley could be avoided by climbing onto the lava on the left and catch up with the trail a few kms up.
We had only gotten 10-13km/day at this point, so food got an issue, but we were also tired of smashing though bushes and walls of blackberries, so we decided to abort at the next wall of blackberries, encapsuled in high cliffs. Here climbing the lava might be an option, otherwise a machete and some time is required.
Option 6B: easy going, trail all the way, quite scenic. SOBO there is a gate that can be passed saying "no entrance". Ford: 35.615397, 070.909105
Option 2: easy walking, the pass was nice, otherwise not too scenic. The Laguna Alta is crowded on the weekend. We were able to pay the entrance fee when exiting the park and explaining our situation. 6kCLP each in cash-only. All staff very nice and helpful!
Coodinates of Interest 6&6B (Nobo/east-north-west bound)
End of MR 35.692056, 071.048245; Camp 35.689332, 071.043194; area with a few campsites 35.681897, 071.030202; Puesto 35.684230, 071.017300; 35.682135, 071.008739; 35.682060, 071.006455; gate 35.683450, 071.007873; BB 35.679659, 071.005362; Puesto 35.672221, 070.997246; Gate 35.670586, 070995164; Ford 35.669007, 070.992150; Camp 35.668473, 070.992253; Camp 35.661482, 070.985981; Camp 35.646977, 070.970698; Start CC to riverbed 35.645439, 070.966141; Puesto of Roberto 35.643597, 070.965053; Camp 35.636929, 070.953033; Ford 35.640028, 070.957016; Water 35.642229, 070.952051; Camp 35.641998, 070.951236; Water 35.634136, 070.938527; Camp 35.634136, 070.937086; Water 35.633527, 070.936134; Trail to overgrown 35.633168, 070.933813; Camp without water 35.629287, 070.918162; Trail overgrown and cliff 35.628943, 070.913303; Camp 35.627790, 070.914403
*'''GPT06 2026-1-30 to 2026-02-02 /4 days / hiking / SOBO / Route: RR Parque Inglés to Los Alamos / Hermann '''
Had contacted and paid Tamara, Don Victor’s daughter but hadn’t received anything back from her. Bus to Parque Ingles from Molina at 8:30. Needed authorization to cross through park and out the other end, easily given. Lots of traffic to El Bolsón, 12km, then nobody. Camped at Laguna las Animas, beautiful.
2nd day, Thunderstorm in afternoon approaching Pass {06} [34.0/2695], emergency camped at -35.51872, -70.74771. Nice spot, plenty of water around.
3rd day, Fantastic views crossing Pass. Passed Puesto of Don Victor, didn’t meet him, saw 3 Arrieros in the distance, who saw me too. Camped at {06} [48.3/183].
4th day, fantastic views passing Laguna del Caracol, and then from the pass thereafter. Gave up plan to camp at Laguna de los Hornos, due to high winds and dust, met 3 young Chilenos who gave me a lift down the dirt road to Los Alamos and further to San Clemente, from which I took a bus to Talca, for rest day.
Attraction : 5/5, Difficulty: 4.5/5 (due to sun, no shade, sand, and dust)
*'''GPT06 I 2015-12-19 to 2025-12-23 I 5 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: option 2 - 1C - 1B - 1 - RR - | Michaela '''
- I did this section again together with Kathrin and Matthias.
- We started at the last bus stop after Vilches Alto.
- We paid the CLP 8,900 entrance fee for Altos de Lircay National Reserve online and got a permit from Tamara for CLP 25,000 each.
- On the second day, we hiked only until noon and camped at Laguna de las Ánimas because the weather forecast was not really good.
- We did not bathe at Termas de Azufre because there was little water and many algae.
- All river crossings were easy.
- We didn't meet Don Victor, his Puesto was locked.
- Almost no snow left.
- All in all an amazing section, not too difficult.
- We arrived on Christmas Eve in Los Álamos and slept at the resupply shop (single room 20.000, double room 30.000). Not much stuff for resupply, so I went the next morning again to Talca.
1. Camp: -35.514331, -70.910841 nice place next to a stream under big trees
2. Camp: -35.484955, -70.848414 at Laguna de las Ánimas
3. Camp: -35.505165, -70.757095 beautiful spot next to some streams
4. Camp: -35.610598, -70.837609 also good spot next to water
Difficulty: 3/5 Attractiveness: 5/5
2025-12-13 to 2025-12-16 / 4 Days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 2 + Option 1C + Option 1D + RR / Martin Ankel
My first GPT experience, and what a start!
I started from Altos Vilches, since the Bolson trail and Bolson Camp is closed until further notice and it is unclear whether CONAF will allow you to enter using Option 01 — I emailed with CONAF asking for an indication on opening date and whether I was allowed to hike on the road (Option 01) and connect to the RR after Camp Bolson, their answers were less than helpful to say the least.
Regarding permits. I contacted Tamara well in advance. She is slow to reply, but once she gets going she is very helpful and accommodating. Notice that many of the more strict requirements (minimum 3 persons, certified guide, etc.) is CONAFS doing and not Tamara’s. She does not really care, her and her father just want to know who accesses their lands as littering has become problematic. In other words, obtaining permission is mostly a CONAF issue. If you are a bit persuasive, in a good way, it seems Tamara might just overrule CONAF as she did in my case. Paying Tamara 25 000 CLP using Caja Vecina was straightforward. I did it at the bank office.
Day 01
I took the 7:15 bus from Talca to Alto Vilches and hiked to the ticket booth. There I was immediately stopped by no less than six CONAF rangers asking to see my permission from Tamara — my big pack is a dead give away — which I gladly showed them. What followed was a long discussion among the rangers. A few seemed quite annoyed that Tamara had given permission to a solo hiker and tried calling here several times, to no avail. The others seemed more relaxed with a “let the man hike” mindset.
After about half an hour, and after an inspection of my kitchen, I’m allowed to continue given that I don’t end through Parque Ingles as the Bolson trail is closed, and that I do not camp inside the reserve. I also have to notify CONAF once I exit.
I started hiking Option 02 through the reserve and connected with Option 01C. As I hike Option 01C the weather takes a turn for the worse with thick clouds (20 meter visibility) and rain. I feel a storm is brewing and decide to bunker in early. Up to the pass {06-01C} there are plenty of good campsites and water sources.
Day 02
I awake to thick fog and decide to wait a few hours to see if conditions improve. After a couple of hours the rain stops and I decide to get going. The visibility is still low and it is hard to follow the trail in these conditions, I rely heavily on my GPS. Between pass {06-01V} there seems to be no campsites or good water sources until you reach the [-35.51293, -70.91191] marker. I want to add the caveat that I hiked in low visibility.
Trying to keep some distance from Camp Bolson in case someone is there, I take option 1D. The route is overgrown in a few places, some bushwhacking is necessary. As I connect to the RR the weather is improving, the sun is slowly chipping away at the clouds.
I continue hiking to [35.505166, 70.757863°] where I find a relatively flat and dry patch of grass, with many nearby streams of water, among all the volcanic sand.
Day 03:
I woke up to perfect weather, sunny and clear skies. Absolutely extraordinary views.
Around pass {06} [34 / 2695] there is some kilometers of snow left, but nothing troublesome.
Continuing with the amazing hiking, it is not long until I pass Don Victor’s Puesto. He does not seem to be there yet, adding to that belief, I did not see any cattle during my entire 4 days of hiking. To be honest, I’m somewhat jealous over his little bachelor’s lodge. I kinda want one myself, in the same location of course.
I camp at Laguna La Turbia ([35.675735, 70.845147°]). Beautiful campsite, and warm water, if you do not mind building some rock towers to keep the tent pitched in the sand.
Day 04:
Last day in this magnificent environment. I make my way to the hydroelectric dam, where I meet the first person I have seen since leaving the Lircay Altos reserve. I’m allowed to continue to Los Alamos without escort.
In Los Alamos I visited the shop at the resupply marker. Limited resupply, but they have cheese, butter and eggs. You know the basic staples ;). They also have accommodations. I paid 10 000 CLP for the night for one room. I think they also have a restaurant, but I did not verify this.
Amazing start to my GPT adventure. I will embark on GPT07 tomorrow. Hopefully by hitchhiking to Laguna del Maule.
All water sources are reliable. At this time of year there was water everywhere. All fording was very easy. If you are light on your feet you can probably make it without dipping your feet in the water.
'''GPT06/2025-12-3 to 2025-12-5/2 days/SOBO/RR/variant C/variant F/ Denis and Robert '''
We joined the section 6 at the end of GPT05 variant 5 at the hot springs. At the highest altitude (above 2600) there is still some snow, it was a bit slower because of uneven surface of the snow.
We didn’t meet Don Victor, and we took the detour but, puesto looked pretty empty, I guess he is not there yet.
We slept in Los Alamos Hostel La Riviera and bought some food in small shop in Los almanos (It is cheaper to buy food in Los Alamos compare to groceries next to the paved road)Definitely recommend to stay at this hostel they offer dinner as well for 10$ and breakfast were included in the price of room (40$ for room for 2 people). And food was delicious.
But not very happy with lunch in Cordillera restaurant.
Rest of the resupply we sent from Curico to Termas de Mediano, but it didn’t work well, because it couldn’t be delivered there by post office. So friend from Termas had to go to San Clemente to pick it up.
Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 6/5
*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''
- New GPT06 Option 6 (Entrada San Carlos): The right-of-way conflicts and entry restrictions made me look for other options. This new option provides a possible alternative entry route that is reasonable well visible on satellite images but so far not verified and recorded. Access by bus should be relatively easy as the trail head is lower down in the valley where bus frequency is higher. I suggest a northbound investigation somewhen in December to more easily return if the access at San Carlos is denied. the first mandatory river crossing is rather high up in sedimented areas where fording should not be utterly difficult. It's probably also a quite attractive route.
- GPT06 Option 3 (Cumbre Descabezado Grande): This group of high routes include tracks that avoid getting close to the puesto of Don Victor where permit requirements apply. Especially hikers that consider climbing to the summit of Descabezado Grande may simply stay in an altitude between 2500 m and 3100 m to avoid contact with Don Victor. Remaining snow early in the season may make these high routes difficult and unsafe before January.
- Eastern routes of GPT05 and GPT06: A demanding but very attractive option is combining GPT05 and GPT06 in one long hike. Combining both sections and taking the remote optional routes east of Descabezado Grande avoids all right-of-way conflicts but the terrain is demanding and the river crossings on section GPT05 must not be underestimated. to avoid the river crossings of GPT05 someone may hike these eastern routes of GPT06 Options 7 to 13 in northbound direction and exit on the Regular Route of GPT06 at Parque Ingles.
- New GPT05 Option 9 (Rio Colorado Bajo): The upper Rio Colorado provides large pastures where countless cows and horses feet each summer. It is not entirely clear to me on which routes these animals are driven up to their pastures at the beginning of the season. The new Option 9 (Rio Colorado Bajo) documents two suspected routes. Older satellite images show two bridges that were destroyed somewhen in 2023 and it remains unclear to me which of these bridges were rebuild. Fording these large rivers seams not feasible especially early in the season. Anyway, in season 2024/2025 lots of animals were up in the valley so I suspect that at least one of these two bridges was rebuild. It would be brilliant if someone asks local residents which bridges were rebuild and investigates these routes. Once verified, one of the two routes might become the new Regular Route of GPT06 that avoids the entry restrictions of the National Parks (Parque Ingles, Vilches Alto). Also, walking up the valley of Rio Colorado is very attractive and two hot springs add to pleasure of this route. Note that this option of GPT05 avoids the often demanding crossing of Rio Negro and the steep ascent or descent Cuesta Las Hormigas.
==Season 2024/25==