29
ediciones
Cambios
→Season 2025/26
==Season 2025/26==
'''GPT05-06/ 2026-01-03 to 2026-01-12/ 11 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ GPT05 Options 1, 2, RR; GPT06 Options 9B, 9A, 9, 3B, 3, RR, 6F/ Greg and Simon Carter'''
[As this hike was continuous this post includes GPT05 notes. GPT06 started around Day 7]
Overall This was my favourite GPT trek to date. Spectacular mountain vistas, lagunas, rivers, streams and springs, waterfalls, glaciers, hot springs, challenging navigation and terrain, volcanoes, wild horses, arrieros, and condors.
A big shout out to Alexey Abramov for providing the track file of his “Desolation Traverse: Los Queñes - Rio Colorado - Descabezado plateau - Central Los Cipreses” (available on WikiLoc), which was super helpful in navigating through difficult cross-country terrain.
Attraction: 5/5 Difficulty: 5/5
Day 1 Caught a bus from Curicó to Los Queñes for CLP 2,500pp. (The bus leaves at 0730, 1130, 1300, 1630, 1830 Mon-Fri; 0730, 1130 and 1630 on Sat, Sun and public holidays)
Arriving early Mon there was little chance of a hitch so we (reluctantly) paid CLP 40,000 for a ride up to the start of Option 1.
Wonderful mountain and lake views on the hike up the road and valley to camp.
The Refuge {05-01} [8.9/2599] (El Planchon Base Camp) was locked but had good camping spots, running water from a hose, and a covered outdoor area with an open fire place (and wood) and enough room to pitch a small tent undercover in bad weather.
Camped at {05-01} [13.2+0.2/2623], which had amazing views but was very exposed and dusty with high gusting wind.
Day 2 Ascended Volcán Planchon on Option 2, which was quite challenging with steep loose scree, and ridge walking close to big drop-offs with a strong cross-wind. 2hrs up. 1.5hrs down on an alternative route to the west of Option 2, which seemed safer, provided some enjoyable scree skiing on soft sand, and joined up with the E/W OSM trail at the foot of the Volcán, to return to the intersection of Options 1 and 2.
Spectacular views of and from the Volcán. Well worth the effort.
Note there was no water until Camp {05-01} [27.8/1670]. However there was plenty of water at this camp, which has a man-made irrigation ditch that channels water close to camp.
Day 3 Joined the RR and forded the Rio Claro at -35.20436, -70.66298, where as Bailey pointed out, there is a clear water stream entering the Rio Claro. The ford was easy, at half calf height.
After the ford there was some enjoyable ridge hiking, with spectacular big mountain views.
Camped at -35.24513, -70.66722, beside a bunch of small bushes, which provided good shelter from northerly winds coming up the valley. Good flowing water in the nearby stream.
Day 4 Very scenic views from pass [41.0/2354] and during the subsequent descent and ascent. Then really spectacular 270 degree views from pass [48.7/2362].
Sketchy very steep technical descent to camp at Rio Negro, with the trail partially washed away in some sections.
Camped by Rio Negro. Camp sites are limited: only for a 2 person and 1 person tent.
Day 5 Easy ford of the Rio Negro in the morning, as the water level dropped substantially overnight. However it was also fordable late afternoon the previous day.
Steep technical descent down from Cuesta La Hormiga, through the Bottleneck.
Then slow going crossing through numerous boulder fields, heading upriver.
Note there is a steep descent down a washout extending towards the Rio Colorado, commencing at the large cairn at -35.34364, -70.64654. The last few metres are a bit tricky to get down from the boulders - head downstream/ west to find the easiest path down to the river flats.
Enjoyed a nice swim in an eddy immediately downstream of the bridge over the Rio Colorado at -35.34734, -70.64363.
The trail becomes easier after the bridge, as it becomes a well travelled cattle trail.
There is a good flowing stream at -35.37310, -70.57358 just before the hot spring at [64.7/2027] (Las Yeguas), also just after, at -35.37194, -70.57043.
Enjoyed a wonderful hot spring and camp at Las Yeguas. There is cold water flowing into the hot spring from a pipe which is probably ok if filtered. We met the family from the nearby puesto who dropped in to use the hot spring. They were friendly and didn’t mind us camping.
Note that in the morning the hot spring was warm, so it’s best to use it in the afternoon, or divert the cold water pipe flowing into the spring the night before.
Day 6 Continued on the RR. The ford of the Rio Valle Grande at [68.1/2057] was easy, at half calf height.
Enjoyed the awesome hot spring at [70.3/2135] (Termas Pellejo), then forded the Rio Colorado a little downstream, at knee height.
Continued the RR, ascending with views of incredible volcanic landscapes, then descended to camp in a gully with a small spring at -35.42381, -70.55906.
Day 7 Hiked up to GPT06 Option 9/ 9A junction, with stunning desolate volcanic terrain along the way, especially the valley of Rio San Pedro (easy ford at [83.0/2340], ankle height).
Lake {05} [80.4/2499] has plenty of water, and there is a good flowing stream before you get there, at -35.41984, -70.59138.
Late in the day climbed Descabezado Chico - no snow but very steep with sand and small loose rock that is fairly well consolidated (ie doesn’t move much when stepped on). Spectacular views from the summit.
Day 8 Continued on GPT06 Option 9. Another day of spectacular big mountain scenery.
Plenty of water in Rio Barroso.
Pass {05-08} [5.2+6.2/3033] has a steep ice field across it including a section of sideways sloping steep ice covering 20m of the trail (viewed in the direction of the trail it was lower to higher, left to right), where micro-spikes were required. I cut steps with the micro-spikes as I crossed. This was a solid but scary traverse where a slip/slide would have been fatal. Alternatively you can bypass the ice by walking above it on very loose rock, which is not recommended.
Camped at -35.54428, -70.75478, below the trail junction of Options 3B and 9, where there are some good camping sites beside the Estero El Volcan, which had a good flow.
Day 9 Traversed Descabezado Grande on GPT06 Option 3B. Spectacular scenery but slow progress on complex volcanic terrain, requiring hours of contouring, ascending and descending.
Luckily Pass {06-3B} [2.7/3124] had no snow or ice.
Ford {06-3B} [5.8/2847] had very little flow with small pools of clean water.
The Quebrada El Descabezado had no water.
Camped at -35.64057, -70.78693.
Day 10 Hiked Option 3 to the RR. Really spectacular views traversing to Pass {06} [59.5/2518] (Hornitos).
On descent from the pass there was a good flowing stream at -35.70283, -70.82520, and at Camp {06} [62.3/1999].
No ford was required at Ford {06} [63.6/1909], as the river is not flowing. Laguna de los Hornitos has a fair amount of water, but it is getting low with algae around the sides.
Climbed Volcan Los Hornitos and walked around the rim - really superb views.
Hiked down to the road. Rio Cipreses was dry in its upper reaches, as the Laguna La Invernada has been dammed for hydro. Dry camped at -35.75345, -70.78590. There is a gate on the road to the Laguna, but it could be passed if you need water. The next water is further away, down the road, at Water {06} [73.7/1014], where there is a good flowing stream.
Day 11 Hiked out to Los Cipreses. The Shop was open at {06-F} [0.5/855]. Hitched easily from the bus stop at {06-F} [0.6/862] to Talca.
*'''GPT06 I 2016-02-02 to 2025-02-07 I 5,5 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: option 6 - 6B - 2 | Chris & Lotte '''
Parque Ingles & El Bolson are, contrary to Conaf Website, not closed! That post from march 2025 is outdated.
We wanted to confirm the exploratory option 6 along Rio Claro and then an unnamed river up to Laguna Caracol towards La Mina but had to change plans and "escape the green hell" (more on that in the facebook group) towards Los Venados via Option 6B.
Option 6: we followed the MR which after a landslide becomes a well-maintained trail. At some point it diverts up the mountain, but asking an arriero (name may have been Otto), he opened one of the gates and told us, thats probably the way we are looking for. The gate was quite strongly marked with no entrado and that it belongs to a David. The trail deteriorated quickly after the last puesto in the woods, but could be followed at times. After the last puesto on the riverbank the trail ends in front of a cliff. Going up or around did not seem feasible, but the ford was quite simple. The OSM-trail on the other side can be taken therefore instead, which is well-maintained until the Puesto of Roberto. After that there is a nice camp spot. We recommend trying this way.
Fording to get back to the trail was tricky. We searched long until we found a feasible ford and had to abort one try at anlther location. This ford was quite strong and still high and may have been possible due to the draught. In a wetter year it should be carefully assessed.
The 70m to the trailhead were a initiation to what was about to come. We battled through. Out of nowhere the trail appeared. Overgrown, but mostly visible.
At times it gets lost in forrests, where fierce battles took place. After reaching the riverbed again, the trail got nicer, at times even marked by stones.
One more overgrown valley could be avoided by climbing onto the lava on the left and catch up with the trail a few kms up.
We had only gotten 10-13km/day at this point, so food got an issue, but we were also tired of smashing though bushes and walls of blackberries, so we decided to abort at the next wall of blackberries, encapsuled in high cliffs. Here climbing the lava might be an option, otherwise a machete and some time is required.
Option 6B: easy going, trail all the way, quite scenic. SOBO there is a gate that can be passed saying "no entrance". Ford: 35.615397, 070.909105
Option 2: easy walking, the pass was nice, otherwise not too scenic. The Laguna Alta is crowded on the weekend. We were able to pay the entrance fee when exiting the park and explaining our situation. 6kCLP each in cash-only. All staff very nice and helpful!
Coodinates of Interest 6&6B (Nobo/east-north-west bound)
End of MR 35.692056, 071.048245; Camp 35.689332, 071.043194; area with a few campsites 35.681897, 071.030202; Puesto 35.684230, 071.017300; 35.682135, 071.008739; 35.682060, 071.006455; gate 35.683450, 071.007873; BB 35.679659, 071.005362; Puesto 35.672221, 070.997246; Gate 35.670586, 070995164; Ford 35.669007, 070.992150; Camp 35.668473, 070.992253; Camp 35.661482, 070.985981; Camp 35.646977, 070.970698; Start CC to riverbed 35.645439, 070.966141; Puesto of Roberto 35.643597, 070.965053; Camp 35.636929, 070.953033; Ford 35.640028, 070.957016; Water 35.642229, 070.952051; Camp 35.641998, 070.951236; Water 35.634136, 070.938527; Camp 35.634136, 070.937086; Water 35.633527, 070.936134; Trail to overgrown 35.633168, 070.933813; Camp without water 35.629287, 070.918162; Trail overgrown and cliff 35.628943, 070.913303; Camp 35.627790, 070.914403
*'''GPT06 2026-1-30 to 2026-02-02 /4 days / hiking / SOBO / Route: RR Parque Inglés to Los Alamos / Hermann '''
Had contacted and paid Tamara, Don Victor’s daughter but hadn’t received anything back from her. Bus to Parque Ingles from Molina at 8:30. Needed authorization to cross through park and out the other end, easily given. Lots of traffic to El Bolsón, 12km, then nobody. Camped at Laguna las Animas, beautiful.
2nd day, Thunderstorm in afternoon approaching Pass {06} [34.0/2695], emergency camped at -35.51872, -70.74771. Nice spot, plenty of water around.
3rd day, Fantastic views crossing Pass. Passed Puesto of Don Victor, didn’t meet him, saw 3 Arrieros in the distance, who saw me too. Camped at {06} [48.3/183].
4th day, fantastic views passing Laguna del Caracol, and then from the pass thereafter. Gave up plan to camp at Laguna de los Hornos, due to high winds and dust, met 3 young Chilenos who gave me a lift down the dirt road to Los Alamos and further to San Clemente, from which I took a bus to Talca, for rest day.
Attraction : 5/5, Difficulty: 4.5/5 (due to sun, no shade, sand, and dust)
*'''GPT06 I 2015-12-19 to 2025-12-23 I 5 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: option 2 - 1C - 1B - 1 - RR - | Michaela '''
- I did this section again together with Kathrin and Matthias.
- We started at the last bus stop after Vilches Alto.
- We paid the CLP 8,900 entrance fee for Altos de Lircay National Reserve online and got a permit from Tamara for CLP 25,000 each.
- On the second day, we hiked only until noon and camped at Laguna de las Ánimas because the weather forecast was not really good.
- We did not bathe at Termas de Azufre because there was little water and many algae.
- All river crossings were easy.
- We didn't meet Don Victor, his Puesto was locked.
- Almost no snow left.
- All in all an amazing section, not too difficult.
- We arrived on Christmas Eve in Los Álamos and slept at the resupply shop (single room 20.000, double room 30.000). Not much stuff for resupply, so I went the next morning again to Talca.
1. Camp: -35.514331, -70.910841 nice place next to a stream under big trees
2. Camp: -35.484955, -70.848414 at Laguna de las Ánimas
3. Camp: -35.505165, -70.757095 beautiful spot next to some streams
4. Camp: -35.610598, -70.837609 also good spot next to water
Difficulty: 3/5 Attractiveness: 5/5
2025-12-13 to 2025-12-16 / 4 Days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 2 + Option 1C + Option 1D + RR / Martin Ankel
My first GPT experience, and what a start!
I started from Altos Vilches, since the Bolson trail and Bolson Camp is closed until further notice and it is unclear whether CONAF will allow you to enter using Option 01 — I emailed with CONAF asking for an indication on opening date and whether I was allowed to hike on the road (Option 01) and connect to the RR after Camp Bolson, their answers were less than helpful to say the least.
Regarding permits. I contacted Tamara well in advance. She is slow to reply, but once she gets going she is very helpful and accommodating. Notice that many of the more strict requirements (minimum 3 persons, certified guide, etc.) is CONAFS doing and not Tamara’s. She does not really care, her and her father just want to know who accesses their lands as littering has become problematic. In other words, obtaining permission is mostly a CONAF issue. If you are a bit persuasive, in a good way, it seems Tamara might just overrule CONAF as she did in my case. Paying Tamara 25 000 CLP using Caja Vecina was straightforward. I did it at the bank office.
Day 01
I took the 7:15 bus from Talca to Alto Vilches and hiked to the ticket booth. There I was immediately stopped by no less than six CONAF rangers asking to see my permission from Tamara — my big pack is a dead give away — which I gladly showed them. What followed was a long discussion among the rangers. A few seemed quite annoyed that Tamara had given permission to a solo hiker and tried calling here several times, to no avail. The others seemed more relaxed with a “let the man hike” mindset.
After about half an hour, and after an inspection of my kitchen, I’m allowed to continue given that I don’t end through Parque Ingles as the Bolson trail is closed, and that I do not camp inside the reserve. I also have to notify CONAF once I exit.
I started hiking Option 02 through the reserve and connected with Option 01C. As I hike Option 01C the weather takes a turn for the worse with thick clouds (20 meter visibility) and rain. I feel a storm is brewing and decide to bunker in early. Up to the pass {06-01C} there are plenty of good campsites and water sources.
Day 02
I awake to thick fog and decide to wait a few hours to see if conditions improve. After a couple of hours the rain stops and I decide to get going. The visibility is still low and it is hard to follow the trail in these conditions, I rely heavily on my GPS. Between pass {06-01V} there seems to be no campsites or good water sources until you reach the [-35.51293, -70.91191] marker. I want to add the caveat that I hiked in low visibility.
Trying to keep some distance from Camp Bolson in case someone is there, I take option 1D. The route is overgrown in a few places, some bushwhacking is necessary. As I connect to the RR the weather is improving, the sun is slowly chipping away at the clouds.
I continue hiking to [35.505166, 70.757863°] where I find a relatively flat and dry patch of grass, with many nearby streams of water, among all the volcanic sand.
Day 03:
I woke up to perfect weather, sunny and clear skies. Absolutely extraordinary views.
Around pass {06} [34 / 2695] there is some kilometers of snow left, but nothing troublesome.
Continuing with the amazing hiking, it is not long until I pass Don Victor’s Puesto. He does not seem to be there yet, adding to that belief, I did not see any cattle during my entire 4 days of hiking. To be honest, I’m somewhat jealous over his little bachelor’s lodge. I kinda want one myself, in the same location of course.
I camp at Laguna La Turbia ([35.675735, 70.845147°]). Beautiful campsite, and warm water, if you do not mind building some rock towers to keep the tent pitched in the sand.
Day 04:
Last day in this magnificent environment. I make my way to the hydroelectric dam, where I meet the first person I have seen since leaving the Lircay Altos reserve. I’m allowed to continue to Los Alamos without escort.
In Los Alamos I visited the shop at the resupply marker. Limited resupply, but they have cheese, butter and eggs. You know the basic staples ;). They also have accommodations. I paid 10 000 CLP for the night for one room. I think they also have a restaurant, but I did not verify this.
Amazing start to my GPT adventure. I will embark on GPT07 tomorrow. Hopefully by hitchhiking to Laguna del Maule.
All water sources are reliable. At this time of year there was water everywhere. All fording was very easy. If you are light on your feet you can probably make it without dipping your feet in the water.
'''GPT06/2025-12-3 to 2025-12-5/2 days/SOBO/RR/variant C/variant F/ Denis and Robert '''
We joined the section 6 at the end of GPT05 variant 5 at the hot springs. At the highest altitude (above 2600) there is still some snow, it was a bit slower because of uneven surface of the snow.
We didn’t meet Don Victor, and we took the detour but, puesto looked pretty empty, I guess he is not there yet.
We slept in Los Alamos Hostel La Riviera and bought some food in small shop in Los almanos (It is cheaper to buy food in Los Alamos compare to groceries next to the paved road)Definitely recommend to stay at this hostel they offer dinner as well for 10$ and breakfast were included in the price of room (40$ for room for 2 people). And food was delicious.
But not very happy with lunch in Cordillera restaurant.
Rest of the resupply we sent from Curico to Termas de Mediano, but it didn’t work well, because it couldn’t be delivered there by post office. So friend from Termas had to go to San Clemente to pick it up.
Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 6/5
*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''
- New GPT06 Option 6 (Entrada San Carlos): The right-of-way conflicts and entry restrictions made me look for other options. This new option provides a possible alternative entry route that is reasonable well visible on satellite images but so far not verified and recorded. Access by bus should be relatively easy as the trail head is lower down in the valley where bus frequency is higher. I suggest a northbound investigation somewhen in December to more easily return if the access at San Carlos is denied. the first mandatory river crossing is rather high up in sedimented areas where fording should not be utterly difficult. It's probably also a quite attractive route.
- GPT06 Option 3 (Cumbre Descabezado Grande): This group of high routes include tracks that avoid getting close to the puesto of Don Victor where permit requirements apply. Especially hikers that consider climbing to the summit of Descabezado Grande may simply stay in an altitude between 2500 m and 3100 m to avoid contact with Don Victor. Remaining snow early in the season may make these high routes difficult and unsafe before January.
- Eastern routes of GPT05 and GPT06: A demanding but very attractive option is combining GPT05 and GPT06 in one long hike. Combining both sections and taking the remote optional routes east of Descabezado Grande avoids all right-of-way conflicts but the terrain is demanding and the river crossings on section GPT05 must not be underestimated. to avoid the river crossings of GPT05 someone may hike these eastern routes of GPT06 Options 7 to 13 in northbound direction and exit on the Regular Route of GPT06 at Parque Ingles.
- New GPT05 Option 9 (Rio Colorado Bajo): The upper Rio Colorado provides large pastures where countless cows and horses feet each summer. It is not entirely clear to me on which routes these animals are driven up to their pastures at the beginning of the season. The new Option 9 (Rio Colorado Bajo) documents two suspected routes. Older satellite images show two bridges that were destroyed somewhen in 2023 and it remains unclear to me which of these bridges were rebuild. Fording these large rivers seams not feasible especially early in the season. Anyway, in season 2024/2025 lots of animals were up in the valley so I suspect that at least one of these two bridges was rebuild. It would be brilliant if someone asks local residents which bridges were rebuild and investigates these routes. Once verified, one of the two routes might become the new Regular Route of GPT06 that avoids the entry restrictions of the National Parks (Parque Ingles, Vilches Alto). Also, walking up the valley of Rio Colorado is very attractive and two hot springs add to pleasure of this route. Note that this option of GPT05 avoids the often demanding crossing of Rio Negro and the steep ascent or descent Cuesta Las Hormigas.
==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025-03-22 to 2025-03-26 / 4.5 days hiking / SOBO / OH 05 + OH 01C + OH 01B + OH 01 + RR + RR GPT 5 + OH GPT 5 H + RR / MiaimZelt'''
Now a permit is needed to hike in the Descabezado area. I wrote Tamara Galdames (+56987397559) to apply for this permit. I had to print a form, fill it out and send her pictures of it together with my passport. The permit costs 25k per person. Tell her that you need to make the transferencia with "Caja Vecina". She will give you the information. Then you go to a shop with "Caja Vecina" sign, show them her message and pay 25k cash. They will make the transferencia for you and give you a piece of paper. Send a picture of it to Tamara.
Day 1: Took the 7:15am bus from Talca to Vilches Alto. Bought the entrance for Reseva National Altos de Lircay online and showed Conaf it and gave them the paper from Tamara (the one i filled out). Could start hiking without issues. Lot's of dayhikers at this weekend. Took OH 01C and was alone for the rest of the day. Trail was in good condition, but less obvious than the trails in the Reserva. It's marked with cairns. Found a great camp with flowing water here: -35.513935, -70.910756
Day 2: Hiked CC to the MR of OH 01. Continued to the RR and hiked to Laguna Animas. Met friendly Arrieros together with lots of cattle. Hiked RR of GPT 5 to have a look at Laguna Mondaca. Very steep downhill, but easy with the soft sand. Magic moment when 10 condors circled above me in the sky. Skipped detour to Laguna Mondaca, because the hot springs were calling. GPT OH 05H was tricky and dangerous. The flat part leads through a very large boulderfield, not difficult but tiring + slow. Ford {06} [24.6+1.5/1590] was knee high and had a strong current. Later a big stone i was stepping fell down together with me. Hurt my elbow. Met two germans, they told me the beginning of the trail to Termas Azufre is eroded and now very difficult. I tried to follow the suggestion of GPT track, but it was very difficult and dangerous. The lower part of the mountain is indeed very eroded. Climbed a very steep mountainside with loose ground and also loose rocks to get to the trail. Can't recommend this, i slipped in the beginning. When i reached the trail, it was ok. Enjoyable evening in the hot springs, but not so good night with ground heating.
Day 3: Trail was in mostly in good conditions, only the beginning was not always easy to follow.
Ford {06} [29.4/2190] was knee high. Ford {06} [32.5/2565] was low, but not dry. Views from
Pass {06} [33.8/2695] (El Estadio) and while hiking down were incredible! Easy hiking until
Hot Spring {06} [45.6/1881] (Banos del Blanquillo, lukewarm, only 20 C). Had time left and did a detour to Laguna Blanquillo. Was not really worth it, because at 5pm the Laguna had no sun. Spend the night together with a guided group with local arriero at Baños Blanquillo. They spoiled me with tasty dinner, was a very good evening. Their Guide Barbara speaks english very well, knows everything in Maule region, she even found a new yet unknown flower! If someone is interested in guided tours (options depending on the clients) in Maule region she can help you: +56992599639.
Day 4: Easy hiking 'til Laguna Caracol. Hiked CC to the crater lake next to Laguna Caracol: incredible! Camp {06} [56.3/2034] is sooo beautiful! Also had a look at Laguna Turbia and in Cráter Los Quillayes. The ascent to Pass {06} [59.3/2518] (Hornitos) was very exhausting with the afternoon heat, but great views! Dark clouds and thunder came, hurried down until Camp {06} [62.2/1999]. Only few drops of rain, i liked this place to camp and enjoyed the stars. Water flowing next to the spot. Was my favorite day according to the views.
Day 5: Easy hiking 'til the MR. Ford {06} [63.4/1909] was rock hopping. Appletree before Los Cipreses. At
Gate {06} [78.9/865] (Central Hidroelectrica Isla) i had to explain where i came from and whether i registered with Carabinieros (no). Got a hitch until a bus stop near Armerillo, where i took a bus to Talca. Can recommend Hostel 1760 - relaxed place to stay!
Summary: GPT 6 is absolutely stunning. Most tiring was the sand: had tons of it in my shoes although wearing gaiters.
*'''2025-03-24 to 2025-03-28 / 4,5 days / SOBO / RR, Option 2, 3 (Descabezado), 6a, 6D (Cumbre Descabezado) / Thijmen Scholten'''
As for the permit I met mister Victor and he was not happy to meet me without permit. So if you want to take the RR route apply for a permit (described by Thomas)! If you don't want to, take the high mountain route (variant 2 and 3). Even though you are still on his terrain, you will probably avoid him this way. Going SOBO CONAF will ask for this permit so you have to say you just go to EL Bolson (buy a ticket online?) or you have to sneak past (like Volker explained).
- First day I hitched from Molina to Parque Ingles , I did not have any ticket or permit but luckely it was Monday which meant CONAF was closed and I could just walk trough the gate on the trail.
- I met the guard of El Bolson campsite and he was cool with me passing by, even though the park was closed. I wanted to pay him the entrance fee but he wouldn't accept it.
- Camped after the pass at water point 22.0. water point 17.8 before the pass is also a good campspot.
- Look out after the pass on option 02H that you do not decent too much. I had to climb 200m up again
- Continued to the high mountain route (02H). There is no water here so fill up at the indicated ford. It's muddy glacial water so if you want to have clear water you have to fill up before the pas. Camped at camp without water.
- It would have been nice to have some gaiters and sunglasses
- Summit Descabezado. Take route 03 don't follow the track perfectly but walk on the rocky ridge that's the easiest way to get up.
- I wanted to climb Vulcan Azul on the same day but when I got to the start of the climb it looked like it was a sandy accent. So I returned packed my tent and went down. Afterwards when I saw the summit from a distance next day I regretted it. I went down to RR and camped at Laguna del Caracol.
- Next day option 06A which is nice if you have enough time.
- Look out that you take the right las Hornitos pass and not the one before, I had to climb up again -_-.
- Camped at Laguna los hornos and next morning down and got a ride from the workers to Talca.
*'''2025-03-19 to 2025-03-23 / 5 days / NOBO / RR +OH06 / Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from talca to los alamos at 3pm.
We stayed at the hotel la rivera. Nice place for 35,000 pesos per night with breakfast for 2 people.
You need to ask tamara for permission to cross her father's land (+56987397559) . She'll ask you to fill in a form and you'll have to pay 25,000 pesos per person, but she authorizes a minimum of 2 people.
You also need to fill in the Google form to cross the nobo hydroelectric plant in los alamos, and to get permission from the carabineros at la mina.
Day 1:
We started from Los Alamos and went through the hydroectrical central. We went up to the laguna Los Hornitos and camped at camp 62.2. Very exhausting to walk in the sand.
Day 2:
We went up to the pass 59.3 and walked option 6. Camped close to Hot spring 45.6 (not warm).
Day 3 : went up to the Azufre Hot spring, you walk all day long in the sand, a bit exhausting. We camped down the two hot bath and the ground was very warm. We didn’t sleep very well because of that.
Day 4 : walked RR up to camp El Bolson, not difficult
Day 5 : we ended up at Parque Ingles and took the bus at 5PM up to El Radal (we were on sunday).
*'''2025-03-18 to 2025-03-23 / 5.5 days / NOBO / Option 3 (Cumbre Descabezado) + OH-CC-A {06-02H} + RR / Tim & Tobias'''
We did a relaxed hike through this beautiful section. Got the permission to enter NOBO (Los Cypreces) from natali.veloso@enel.com within 3 days. Visit the carabineros in Colorado, they printed and stamped the form and we hitched to the entry.
Day 1: Went up to Camp {06} [62.2/1999] at 11 a.m from the security guard, where we had to fill in another form. Struggled a bit on the way up because Río Cipreces is dried out and we had little water. Last source is Bridge {06} [72.4/1018] (NOBO).
Day 2: To avoid Don Victor, we took Option 3 and camped beside a little Glaciar at -35.60736 -70.78212, close to Camp NO Water {06-03} [5.9/2542]. Filtert the water from the Glaciar. Great spot.
Day 3: Took Option 3 to get up to the top of the volcano. Loose sand, difficult but stunning day. Decided to stay another day at the camp beside Glaciar. We highly recommend to take this option to get up to the summit because it is much faster than OH-CC-A {06-03A}. Thank you Adrian for the advice!
Day 4: Went OH-CC-A {06-02H} and RR to hot spring Azure, where we camped. It stinks a bit during the night, but the hot springs have perfect temperatures.
Day 5: Short day on RR to laguna las animas. Enjoyed the hot springs in the morning, took some fotos with condors.
Day 6: Went down to Parque Ingles without difficulties.
*'''2025-MAR-10 to 2025-MAR-15 / 6,5 days / Hiking / Alex, Andrey, Anton / GPT06 NOBO (Option7, Option2, Option8: a new traverse of the Calabozos volcano), GPT05 SOBO (RR)'''
This traverse from Laguna Maule to Reserva Nacional Radal Siete Tazas offers a memorable—and surprisingly straightforward—journey from south to north. Although not technically difficult, the route presents extended stretches of deep sand and volcanic ash that demand physical endurance.
Key Considerations:
There are numerous sections without a defined trail; navigation relies on waypoint guidance.
Glaciers lie concealed beneath sand in several locations—refer to waypoint comments for exact coordinates and cautionary notes.
Reliable water sources are found throughout the route.
Early‑season fords can be hazardous; plan crossings carefully and monitor snowmelt levels.
Our newly established Calabozos volcano traverse direction from the southern approach is strongly advised. The northern slopes feature steep, deep‑sand sections that are more strenuous when tackled uphill.
Mondaca Valley bears signs indicating private property. During our traverse, valley guards granted passage without issue, but this should not be assumed as guaranteed access. Exiting via Mondaca Valley tends to be easier than entering.
The track and more photos at Wikiloc:
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/sand-traverse-laguna-maule-to-reserva-nacional-radal-siete-tazas-205862875
*'''2025-02-09 to 2025-02-14 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1 (Altos de Lircay) 01, RR / Eric and Jakob'''
Route:
To avoid Camp Bolson and CONAF we started by taking the Option 1 (Altos de Lircay) 01, which is really beautiful but we recommend taking more water than usual when coming across some water spots since most of the rivers are dry. After completing the Option we continued on the main route until the end.
Travel:
We started from Parque Ingles. Got there by taking a train from Santiago to Curico. After that we took a bus to Molina and another one driving to Parque Ingles. Worked without any complications. Did cost all together around 50 euros for the two of us.
Permissions:
As mentioned by other people it is really hard to contact Don Victor. We wrote him a text message but we didn’t get an answer. We talked with Don Victor and got to know a really kind and respectful man, who simply tries to keep his land less crowded and free of trash. As Thomas describes in his section log, permits are available through his daughter. The number is provided by Thomas. Therefore it is necessary that every hiker who is trying to hike GPT06 is doing their utmost to get the permission from Don Victors daughter in order to respect his land and his priorities. If you are not able to get a permission the best and only option is to skip this section and continue with a different one.
Since we didn’t have an official permit we tried to avoid CONAF as recommended which worked out fine for us by taking an alternative route in the beginning to avoid Camp Bolson. Not getting the CONAF permission and trying to avoid them was a mistake we aren’t proud of and wouldn’t do again. We don’t recommend doing it this way. The experience can be enjoyed way more when getting every permission necessary before starting with the hike.
Resupply:
There is no way to resupply on the trail. After the trail there is the possibility in Los Alamos to resupply in a small shop which got everything a hiker needs. We were also offered an apartment for one night in Los Alamos. It included a kitchen, a bath and two sleeping dorms for 46 euros per night. The name of the owner is Samuel.
Attractiveness: 5/5
Difficulty: 3/5
* ''' 2025-FEB-15 to 2025-FEB-17 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin '''
Combined sections 5 and 6.
Joined section 6 at the hot springs [27.4/1986]. Got there around 7 pm. And there were two Chilean guys sitting in a hot pool so I joined. It was good to finally meet someone.
I took the lower camping spot and the ground was a bit warm, so the night wasn’t cold.
Next day, I went up to the pass. The soft sand makes the climb hard. The way down to the refugio was easier, but still not easy. No sign of Don Victor. The Chileans entered via Parque Inglés and didn’t know about him at all.
The landscape is out of this world and amazing, but the suck factor on the sand is high for me. I got to camp at km 56.3. Beautiful place for camping. But very cold night. I left the water bottle in the tent vestibule and there was a good amount of ice in it in the morning.
The last climb was an again challenging for me. Also because I got a cold and I was cold, so I didn’t sleep much.
Then the way down is more sand. I wanted to get it over with, so I was going fast, around 2000 vertical m/hour. When I got to the gravel road, I had sand everywhere. I do have light gaiters, but they just couldn’t keep up.
Then it was just a few hours in the heat on the road. I got to the small shop after the bridge over Rio Maule. Got ice cream and coke for 3500 or so.
Then I washed in the river and tried to hitch hike to Talca. I stayed there from 17:15 to 18:00, but no luck. Not many cars to begin with. So I got to Hostal La Rivera as somebody suggested. Single room with breakfast was 25 USD and together with pasta for dinner and beer it was 35 USD or 36000 pesos. Paid by debit card. I will take the 7 am bus from Medano to Talca. Should be here on the main road around 7:20.
* ''' 2025-02-10 to 2025-02-13 / 3,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 5 (vilches alto), option 3 (Descabezado Grande), RR / Thomas '''
As right-of-way issues increased recently, and parque ingles CONAF seemed to be more and more intransigent, I chose to take my chances on Vilches Alto entry (which is easily reached by direct bus from Talca).
I arrived on sunday morning but the park was closed with wildfire red alert. I waited there the opening on next morning.
Walking at the park entrance, I was lucky and met Sebastian, Anete y Tono which was started the Condor Circuit. A week ago, they contacted Don Victor daughter, Tamara, which gave a permit to cross the property. Rangers verified carefuly the permit to let them go. I take my chance then and contact Tamara to ask the same permit.
>> There is usefull information to planify GPT6 with serenity :
- From this year, Don Victor's family exiges a permit to enter the property in order to limit the area crowd and waste associated
- Permits are given by Tamara Galdames, Don Victor daughter : +56987397559
- She asks for passport picture and a bank transfer of 25,000 per persona to make the permit
- She told me that she only give permit to 3 people or more
- CONAF rangers (at least at Vilches) verify very carefully the Tamarla autorization
- Don Victor checks also every hiker/horse rider he can see at this period (at least between laguna Caracole and Refugio Blanquillo)
So I was very lucky to met Sebastian & co and I told her I can walk with them, and she said OK. A ranger directly called Tamarly after to make sure I'm not tcheating.
Day 1 : Vilches Alto > Valle Venado camping
No difficulties, a lot of shadow during the ascent, good views from the valle venado mirador. The camping is fine (shower) but without spectacular view.
Day 2 : Valle Venado > Camp without water {06-03} [5,9]
Path to Blanquillo refuge is well marked (also a lot of horse poop). Only difficulty : a water canal crossing at the end of the Blanquillo lake (water until my hips with 1m77), but without any flow.
I met Don Victor at Blanquillo refuge which verified my permit (I show him my WhatsApp conversation with Tamara and it was fine). Then he was pretty warm with me and show me water source.
The beginning of Descabezado ascent is well marked equally. At Camp without water [3,3], it becomes easy CC to the second camp [5,9].
Amazing moon landscape there !!
Day 3 : Descabezado ascent > Laguna de los Hornos by the RR
Start at 6:40, summit at 9:20, only 35min to get back to the camp. Wonderfull sunlights on the moonfield and area volcanos. The way up is demanding, but without any difficulty issue (I followed option 3). The only water source near of the trail is the glaciar crater at this time.
I returned to Blanquillo refuge to get water and met Don Victor and his guests again. They asked me about the volcan and we tchated about previous visitor incivilities and how they want to limit affluence in there.
Then I followed RR SOBO without any issue during the rest of the day until Laguna de los Hornos where I camped. Very scenic and variated views, I definitively recomand this part of RR !
Near los Hornos, I met a group with guid, horses and montain bike which has been kindly returned by Don Victor the day before at the laguna Caracole because they don't have the permit (and potentially because Victor doesn't like the idea of bikes on the montain...).
Day 4 morning : Laguna Los Hornos > Los Cipreses
The Volcan los Hornitos ascent and tour worth the extra mile. Easy sandy descent to the minor road and half hitchhike the minor road.
* ''' 2025-02-05 to 2025-02-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking /SOBO / RR/ Emilie '''
Day 1: departed from Molina at 9:30 with the bus. Arrived at the trail (parque ingles) and had purchased a day pass for the park. Seeing my big backpack the guards asked me where I was planning to sleep, I said laguna the las animas and they said I couldn’t go there without proper authorization. I then asked if I could simply change my plans and sleep at el bolson (campsite inside the park) and they said it was full for the next 2 days. I was really disappointed and asked where I could find some wifi to look at other passes/trails I could do, they sent me 3kms down at the Conaf office of Radal Sieste Tazas. I walked about 300m and saw the gate and decided to try my luck and jump it to bypass them. It worked although I was really stressed and surely enough I ran into a guard on a motorcycle checking the entry permits. I showed him the day pass but Conaf is supposed to give a registration card which I did not have. He asked me how I came in and I had to explain that I jumped the gate. He was ready to send me back (VHF radio in hand and all) but I asked him if I could try to explain myself which I did, showed him my planned route, explained that I knew abt don victor etc, I told him I would be out of the park by nightfall. He agreed to let me pass but it was a close one. You should definitely buy a pass for el bolson campsite, even if you don’t camp there, you look suspicious with your backpack. Went all the way to laguna las animas and camped there.
Day 2: started my day with an encounter with wild horses! They ran towards me, there were about 15 of them! Saw them running down a hill up until 2m of me, they were curious and friendly. It’s was surreal. Camped at S (35.508517° O 70.751605°) on an empty pasture that was not wet.
Day 3: woke up to that empty pasture being filled with cows! One was trying to snatch my bag which woke me up. They were curious and friendly aswell. Hiked until the Refugio camped right next to it (S 35.594815° O 70.825999°) there were other Chileans aswell. All super friendly!
Day 4: my feet were extremely blistered after day 3. I initially wanted to hike up the volcano but decided for an afternoon at the beach instead to rest my feet; hiked about 8km until Laguna del Caracol where I spent the afternoon, reading swimming and cooking, it was great.
Day 5: it was a big day, I hiked all the way to water at [73.5/1014] camped right next to it on the shore of the river (S 35.775444° O 70.802768°). Initially wanted to camp at Laguna de los Hornos but the lake seemed pretty eutrophized (? Not sure if it’s the right word) and I did not want to drink it, even filtered. Since it’s downhill from there, it wasn’t too too long.
Day 6: hiked the remaining few Kms and hitchhiked to Talca. If ever you need accomodation here Hostel 1760 is like a peaceful haven; 30 000cpl and there’s a pool and the rooms are around an interior garden with a fountain. Exactly what I needed.
The takeaway is to definitely not underestimate the terrain, it is rough on your feet, the sand and dust will stick to your face and lips which made me feel thirsty all the way, I always started the day with 2,5L of water which isn’t necessary since there are a lot of streams but I was still always glad to not have to ration my drinking. The river crossing for me was knee high, not sure if I crossed at the wrong place, the water was lower or if I’m especially tall;) did not meet don victor.
*'''2Fev2025 - 6fev2025 / hiking SOBO / RR - OH2A-2-2H - OH3A-3 - RR / 5 days / Clara'''
Parque Ingles : I did the same as Volker (see below) to enter the park cause I couldn't buy a ticket for the park the day before. But I was afraid and I think it would have been bad if I encountered a park ranger. Hopefully I didn't and they didn't ask for park reservation at El Bolson Camping. When I said that I won't come back by this path but go further he didn't say anything (only the owner).
Camp at laguna las animas. Very nice camp spot and lake to swim. No shade. Some stonewall to pitch the tent and protect a bit from the wind.
Ford 29.4 : not so easy, up to mid thighs (1.57) but fast flowing in the begining of afternoon. Then it's a loooong way up in soft volcanic sand, very physical. Lot's of water all the way up till ford 32.5. Then there are also still some smaller water flowing around begining of OH2H and the place I camped.
Camp here -35,54404, -70,75932 : I found a good wind protected spot (for the NNO wind, less for the NNE of the night end but hopefully it decreased) and I made an almost flat spot there. There is multiple little streams with good water flowing just around that spot.
Up to the pass on 2H was easier that I thought but walking down (or more traverse) on the other side was way more harder. Very steep ups and downs in some canyons in soft sand or sometimes big but no stable rocks, snow covered by sand. Last and only water for now after the pass of 2H is at the ford. Took me almost 4h to get to OH3A.
I took an OSM path before 3A to gain few meters, a trail is well visible when you arrive from 2H. Around 2900m I went CC to joined OH3A and I found on the way, few meters left to the 3A tracks, some footsteps going up on either big stable rocks or not so soft sand until around 3300m, looks easier than exactly on tracks for the ascent ! Then it's physical soft sand. Went with very small backpack and took me a bit more than 3h to the summit. Descent way much faster.
Descending at Don Victor refuge, I met a group of chileans. They offered me harina tostada and food (maybe when they see my terrible face after this exhausting day), and we ended up sharing dinner, fried fishes and evening there. If I understood well, they told me that since this year, Don Victor make people pay (25k?!) to camp at his place (or just pass through?), not the locals but the tourists. But since he was not here I didn't need to care about this.
They learned me their fishing technic the day after at Laguna del Caracol and I had 2!! (They had 10kg in half day). Magic encounters with theses so generous and nice persons. Camp at 62.2 (just a bit upper than the waypoint) is nice.
Nothing special to add for the last day except not much workers going down the MR even on week days.
* ''' 2024-01-20 to 2024-01-22 / 2.5 days / Hiking /SOBO / RR, option 2 & 2H, option 3 & 3A (Ascended Descabezado), Variants G / Elijah & Michael '''
'''2024-Dec-30 to 20242025-Jan-5 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option 6 + option 3 (Descabezado) / Sean & Neele'''
Tldr: beautiful section! No problems with snow. Didn't meet Don Victor. Water at all waypoints plus more due to snow.
==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==
* 02-2025 / Clara :
Los alamos : Hostal la Riviera 25k/n con desayuno. Possible to have lunch and dinner also (9500).
El colorado is a good for full resupply. Several bus per days to and from Talca. 1 per day to and from El medano
* 2023 / Michael and Kasia