Cambios

*'''2025-03-22 to 2025-03-26 / 4.5 days hiking / SOBO / OH 05 + OH 01C + OH 01B + OH 01 + RR + RR GPT 5 + OH GPT 5 H + RR / MiaimZelt''' Now a permit is needed to hike in the Descabezado area. I wrote Tamara Galdames (+56987397559) to apply for this permit. I had to print a form, fill it out and send her pictures of it together with my passport. The permit costs 25k per person. Tell her that you need to make the transferencia with "Caja Vecina". She will give you the information. Then you go to a shop with "Caja Vecina" sign, show them her message and pay 25k cash. They will make the transferencia for you and give you a piece of paper. Send a picture of it to Tamara.  Day 1: Took the 7:15am bus from Talca to Vilches Alto. Bought the entrance for Reseva National Altos de Lircay online and showed Conaf it and gave them the paper from Tamara (the one i filled out). Could start hiking without issues. Lot's of dayhikers at this weekend. Took OH 01C and was alone for the rest of the day. Trail was in good condition, but less obvious than the trails in the Reserva. It's marked with cairns. Found a great camp with flowing water here: -35.513935, -70.910756 Day 2: Hiked CC to the MR of OH 01. Continued to the RR and hiked to Laguna Animas. Met friendly Arrieros together with lots of cattle. Hiked RR of GPT 5 to have a look at Laguna Mondaca. Very steep downhill, but easy with the soft sand. Magic moment when 10 condors circled above me in the sky. Skipped detour to Laguna Mondaca, because the hot springs were calling. GPT OH 05H was tricky and dangerous. The flat part leads through a very large boulderfield, not difficult but tiring + slow. Ford {06} [24.6+1.5/1590] was knee high and had a strong current. Later a big stone i was stepping fell down together with me. Hurt my elbow. Met two germans, they told me the beginning of the trail to Termas Azufre is eroded and now very difficult. I tried to follow the suggestion of GPT track, but it was very difficult and dangerous. The lower part of the mountain is indeed very eroded. Climbed a very steep mountainside with loose ground and also loose rocks to get to the trail. Can't recommend this, i slipped in the beginning. When i reached the trail, it was ok. Enjoyable evening in the hot springs, but not so good night with ground heating.  Day 3: Trail was in mostly in good conditions, only the beginning was not always easy to follow. Ford {06} [29.4/2190] was knee high. Ford {06} [32.5/2565] was low, but not dry. Views from Pass {06} [33.8/2695] (El Estadio) and while hiking down were incredible! Easy hiking until Hot Spring {06} [45.6/1881] (Banos del Blanquillo, lukewarm, only 20 C). Had time left and did a detour to Laguna Blanquillo. Was not really worth it, because at 5pm the Laguna had no sun. Spend the night together with a guided group with local arriero at Baños Blanquillo. They spoiled me with tasty dinner, was a very good evening. Their Guide Barbara speaks english very well, knows everything in Maule region, she even found a new yet unknown flower! If someone is interested in guided tours (options depending on the clients) in Maule region she can help you: +56992599639.  Day 4: Easy hiking 'til Laguna Caracol. Hiked CC to the crater lake next to Laguna Caracol: incredible! Camp {06} [56.3/2034] is sooo beautiful! Also had a look at Laguna Turbia and in Cráter Los Quillayes. The ascent to Pass {06} [59.3/2518] (Hornitos) was very exhausting with the afternoon heat, but great views! Dark clouds and thunder came, hurried down until Camp {06} [62.2/1999]. Only few drops of rain, i liked this place to camp and enjoyed the stars. Water flowing next to the spot. Was my favorite day according to the views. Day 5: Easy hiking 'til the MR. Ford {06} [63.4/1909] was rock hopping. Appletree before Los Cipreses. At Gate {06} [78.9/865] (Central Hidroelectrica Isla) i had to explain where i came from and whether i registered with Carabinieros (no). Got a hitch until a bus stop near Armerillo, where i took a bus to Talca. Can recommend Hostel 1760 - relaxed place to stay! Summary: GPT 6 is absolutely stunning. Most tiring was the sand: had tons of it in my shoes although wearing gaiters.   *'''2025-03-24 to 2025-03-28 / 4,5 days / SOBO / RR, Option 2, 3 (Descabezado), 6a, 6D (Cumbre Descabezado) / Thijmen Scholten''' As for the permit I met mister Victor and he was not happy to meet me without permit. So if you want to take the RR route apply for a permit (described by Thomas)! If you don't want to, take the high mountain route (variant 2 and 3). Even though you are still on his terrain, you will probably avoid him this way. Going SOBO CONAF will ask for this permit so you have to say you just go to EL Bolson (buy a ticket online?) or you have to sneak past (like Volker explained).  - First day I hitched from Molina to Parque Ingles , I did not have any ticket or permit but luckely it was Monday which meant CONAF was closed and I could just walk trough the gate on the trail.  - I met the guard of El Bolson campsite and he was cool with me passing by, even though the park was closed. I wanted to pay him the entrance fee but he wouldn't accept it. - Camped after the pass at water point 22.0. water point 17.8 before the pass is also a good campspot.  - Look out after the pass on option 02H that you do not decent too much. I had to climb 200m up again  - Continued to the high mountain route (02H). There is no water here so fill up at the indicated ford. It's muddy glacial water so if you want to have clear water you have to fill up before the pas. Camped at camp without water.  - It would have been nice to have some gaiters and sunglasses  - Summit Descabezado. Take route 03 don't follow the track perfectly but walk on the rocky ridge that's the easiest way to get up.  - I wanted to climb Vulcan Azul on the same day but when I got to the start of the climb it looked like it was a sandy accent. So I returned packed my tent and went down. Afterwards when I saw the summit from a distance next day I regretted it. I went down to RR and camped at Laguna del Caracol.  - Next day option 06A which is nice if you have enough time.  - Look out that you take the right las Hornitos pass and not the one before, I had to climb up again -_-. - Camped at Laguna los hornos and next morning down and got a ride from the workers to Talca.  *'''2025-03-19 to 2025-03-23 / 5 days / NOBO / RR +OH06 / Chloe and Mathieu We took the bus from talca to los alamos at 3pm.We stayed at the hotel la rivera. Nice place for 35,000 pesos per night with breakfast for 2 people.You need to ask tamara for permission to cross her father's land (+56987397559) . She'll ask you to fill in a form and you'll have to pay 25,000 pesos per person, but she authorizes a minimum of 2 people.You also need to fill in the Google form to cross the nobo hydroelectric plant in los alamos, and to get permission from the carabineros at la mina.Day 1:We started from Los Alamos and went through the hydroectrical central. We went up to the laguna Los Hornitos and camped at camp 62.2. Very exhausting to walk in the sand.  Day 2:We went up to the pass 59.3 and walked option 6. Camped close to Hot spring 45.6 (not warm). Day 3 : went up to the Azufre Hot spring, you walk all day long in the sand, a bit exhausting. We camped down the two hot bath and the ground was very warm. We didn’t sleep very well because of that.Day 4 : walked RR up to camp El Bolson, not difficult  Day 5 : we ended up at Parque Ingles and took the bus at 5PM up to El Radal (we were on sunday). *'''2025-03-18 to 2025-03-23 / 5.5 days / NOBO / Option 3 (Cumbre Descabezado) + OH-CC-A {06-02H} + RR / Tim & Tobias''' We did a relaxed hike through this beautiful section. Got the permission to enter NOBO (Los Cypreces) from natali.veloso@enel.com within 3 days. Visit the carabineros in Colorado, they printed and stamped the form and we hitched to the entry.  Day 1: Went up to Camp {06} [62.2/1999] at 11 a.m from the security guard, where we had to fill in another form. Struggled a bit on the way up because Río Cipreces is dried out and we had little water. Last source is Bridge {06} [72.4/1018] (NOBO). Day 2: To avoid Don Victor, we took Option 3 and camped beside a little Glaciar at -35.60736 -70.78212, close to Camp NO Water {06-03} [5.9/2542]. Filtert the water from the Glaciar. Great spot. Day 3: Took Option 3 to get up to the top of the volcano. Loose sand, difficult but stunning day. Decided to stay another day at the camp beside Glaciar. We highly recommend to take this option to get up to the summit because it is much faster than OH-CC-A {06-03A}. Thank you Adrian for the advice! Day 4: Went OH-CC-A {06-02H} and RR to hot spring Azure, where we camped. It stinks a bit during the night, but the hot springs have perfect temperatures. Day 5: Short day on RR to laguna las animas. Enjoyed the hot springs in the morning, took some fotos with condors.  Day 6: Went down to Parque Ingles without difficulties. *'''2025-MAR-10 to 2025-MAR-15 / 6,5 days / Hiking / Alex, Andrey, Anton / GPT06 NOBO (Option7, Option2, Option8: a new traverse of the Calabozos volcano), GPT05 SOBO (RR)'''This traverse from Laguna Maule to Reserva Nacional Radal Siete Tazas offers a memorable—and surprisingly straightforward—journey from south to north. Although not technically difficult, the route presents extended stretches of deep sand and volcanic ash that demand physical endurance.Key Considerations:There are numerous sections without a defined trail; navigation relies on waypoint guidance.Glaciers lie concealed beneath sand in several locations—refer to waypoint comments for exact coordinates and cautionary notes.Reliable water sources are found throughout the route.Early‑season fords can be hazardous; plan crossings carefully and monitor snowmelt levels.Our newly established Calabozos volcano traverse direction from the southern approach is strongly advised. The northern slopes feature steep, deep‑sand sections that are more strenuous when tackled uphill.Mondaca Valley bears signs indicating private property. During our traverse, valley guards granted passage without issue, but this should not be assumed as guaranteed access. Exiting via Mondaca Valley tends to be easier than entering.The track and more photos at Wikiloc:https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/sand-traverse-laguna-maule-to-reserva-nacional-radal-siete-tazas-205862875 *'''2025-02-09 to 2025-02-14 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1 (Altos de Lircay) 01, RR / Eric and Jakob''' Route: To avoid Camp Bolson and CONAF we started by taking the Option 1 (Altos de Lircay) 01, which is really beautiful but we recommend taking more water than usual when coming across some water spots since most of the rivers are dry. After completing the Option we continued on the main route until the end. Travel: We started from Parque Ingles. Got there by taking a train from Santiago to Curico. After that we took a bus to Molina and another one driving to Parque Ingles. Worked without any complications. Did cost all together around 50 euros for the two of us.  Permissions: As mentioned by other people it is really hard to contact Don Victor. We wrote him a text message but we didn’t get an answer. We talked with Don Victor and got to know a really kind and respectful man, who simply tries to keep his land less crowded and free of trash. As Thomas describes in his section log, permits are available through his daughter. The number is provided by Thomas. Therefore it is necessary that every hiker who is trying to hike GPT06 is doing their utmost to get the permission from Don Victors daughter in order to respect his land and his priorities. If you are not able to get a permission the best and only option is to skip this section and continue with a different one. Since we didn’t have an official permit we tried to avoid CONAF as recommended which worked out fine for us by taking an alternative route in the beginning to avoid Camp Bolson. Not getting the CONAF permission and trying to avoid them was a mistake we aren’t proud of and wouldn’t do again. We don’t recommend doing it this way. The experience can be enjoyed way more when getting every permission necessary before starting with the hike.  Resupply: There is no way to resupply on the trail. After the trail there is the possibility in Los Alamos to resupply in a small shop which got everything a hiker needs. We were also offered an apartment for one night in Los Alamos. It included a kitchen, a bath and two sleeping dorms for 46 euros per night. The name of the owner is Samuel. Attractiveness: 5/5Difficulty: 3/5 * ''' 2025-FEB-15 to 2025-FEB-17 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin ''' Combined sections 5 and 6.Joined section 6 at the hot springs [27.4/1986]. Got there around 7 pm. And there were two Chilean guys sitting in a hot pool so I joined. It was good to finally meet someone.  I took the lower camping spot and the ground was a bit warm, so the night wasn’t cold.  Next day, I went up to the pass. The soft sand makes the climb hard. The way down to the refugio was easier, but still not easy. No sign of Don Victor. The Chileans entered via Parque Inglés and didn’t know about him at all.  The landscape is out of this world and amazing, but the suck factor on the sand is high for me. I got to camp at km 56.3. Beautiful place for camping. But very cold night. I left the water bottle in the tent vestibule and there was a good amount of ice in it in the morning.  The last climb was an again challenging for me. Also because I got a cold and I was cold, so I didn’t sleep much.  Then the way down is more sand. I wanted to get it over with, so I was going fast, around 2000 vertical m/hour. When I got to the gravel road, I had sand everywhere. I do have light gaiters, but they just couldn’t keep up.  Then it was just a few hours in the heat on the road. I got to the small shop after the bridge over Rio Maule. Got ice cream and coke for 3500 or so.  Then I washed in the river and tried to hitch hike to Talca. I stayed there from 17:15 to 18:00, but no luck. Not many cars to begin with. So I got to Hostal La Rivera as somebody suggested. Single room with breakfast was 25 USD and together with pasta for dinner and beer it was 35 USD or 36000 pesos. Paid by debit card. I will take the 7 am bus from Medano to Talca. Should be here on the main road around 7:20.  * ''' 2025-02-10 to 2025-02-13 / 3,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 5 (vilches alto), option 3 (Descabezado Grande), RR / Thomas ''' As right-of-way issues increased recently, and parque ingles CONAF seemed to be more and more intransigent, I chose to take my chances on Vilches Alto entry (which is easily reached by direct bus from Talca).I arrived on sunday morning but the park was closed with wildfire red alert. I waited there the opening on next morning. Walking at the park entrance, I was lucky and met Sebastian, Anete y Tono which was started the Condor Circuit. A week ago, they contacted Don Victor daughter, Tamara, which gave a permit to cross the property. Rangers verified carefuly the permit to let them go. I take my chance then and contact Tamara to ask the same permit.  >> There is usefull information to planify GPT6 with serenity :  - From this year, Don Victor's family exiges a permit to enter the property in order to limit the area crowd and waste associated - Permits are given by Tamara Galdames, Don Victor daughter : +56987397559 - She asks for passport picture and a bank transfer of 25,000 per persona to make the permit - She told me that she only give permit to 3 people or more - CONAF rangers (at least at Vilches) verify very carefully the Tamarla autorization - Don Victor checks also every hiker/horse rider he can see at this period (at least between laguna Caracole and Refugio Blanquillo) So I was very lucky to met Sebastian & co and I told her I can walk with them, and she said OK. A ranger directly called Tamarly after to make sure I'm not tcheating. Day 1 : Vilches Alto > Valle Venado camping No difficulties, a lot of shadow during the ascent, good views from the valle venado mirador. The camping is fine (shower) but without spectacular view.  Day 2 : Valle Venado > Camp without water {06-03} [5,9] Path to Blanquillo refuge is well marked (also a lot of horse poop). Only difficulty : a water canal crossing at the end of the Blanquillo lake (water until my hips with 1m77), but without any flow. I met Don Victor at Blanquillo refuge which verified my permit (I show him my WhatsApp conversation with Tamara and it was fine). Then he was pretty warm with me and show me water source. The beginning of Descabezado ascent is well marked equally. At Camp without water [3,3], it becomes easy CC to the second camp [5,9].Amazing moon landscape there !! Day 3 : Descabezado ascent > Laguna de los Hornos by the RRStart at 6:40, summit at 9:20, only 35min to get back to the camp. Wonderfull sunlights on the moonfield and area volcanos. The way up is demanding, but without any difficulty issue (I followed option 3). The only water source near of the trail is the glaciar crater at this time. I returned to Blanquillo refuge to get water and met Don Victor and his guests again. They asked me about the volcan and we tchated about previous visitor incivilities and how they want to limit affluence in there. Then I followed RR SOBO without any issue during the rest of the day until Laguna de los Hornos where I camped. Very scenic and variated views, I definitively recomand this part of RR ! Near los Hornos, I met a group with guid, horses and montain bike which has been kindly returned by Don Victor the day before at the laguna Caracole because they don't have the permit (and potentially because Victor doesn't like the idea of bikes on the montain...). Day 4 morning : Laguna Los Hornos > Los CipresesThe Volcan los Hornitos ascent and tour worth the extra mile. Easy sandy descent to the minor road and half hitchhike the minor road. * ''' 2025-02-05 to 2025-02-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking /SOBO / RR/ Emilie ''' Day 1: departed from Molina at 9:30 with the bus. Arrived at the trail (parque ingles) and had purchased a day pass for the park. Seeing my big backpack the guards asked me where I was planning to sleep, I said laguna the las animas and they said I couldn’t go there without proper authorization. I then asked if I could simply change my plans and sleep at el bolson (campsite inside the park) and they said it was full for the next 2 days. I was really disappointed and asked where I could find some wifi to look at other passes/trails I could do, they sent me 3kms down at the Conaf office of Radal Sieste Tazas. I walked about 300m and saw the gate and decided to try my luck and jump it to bypass them. It worked although I was really stressed and surely enough I ran into a guard on a motorcycle checking the entry permits. I showed him the day pass but Conaf is supposed to give a registration card which I did not have. He asked me how I came in and I had to explain that I jumped the gate. He was ready to send me back (VHF radio in hand and all) but I asked him if I could try to explain myself which I did, showed him my planned route, explained that I knew abt don victor etc, I told him I would be out of the park by nightfall. He agreed to let me pass but it was a close one. You should definitely buy a pass for el bolson campsite, even if you don’t camp there, you look suspicious with your backpack. Went all the way to laguna las animas and camped there.  Day 2: started my day with an encounter with wild horses! They ran towards me, there were about 15 of them! Saw them running down a hill up until 2m of me, they were curious and friendly. It’s was surreal. Camped at S (35.508517° O 70.751605°) on an empty pasture that was not wet.  Day 3: woke up to that empty pasture being filled with cows! One was trying to snatch my bag which woke me up. They were curious and friendly aswell. Hiked until the Refugio camped right next to it (S 35.594815° O 70.825999°) there were other Chileans aswell. All super friendly! Day 4: my feet were extremely blistered after day 3. I initially wanted to hike up the volcano but decided for an afternoon at the beach instead to rest my feet; hiked about 8km until Laguna del Caracol where I spent the afternoon, reading swimming and cooking, it was great.  Day 5: it was a big day, I hiked all the way to water at [73.5/1014] camped right next to it on the shore of the river (S 35.775444° O 70.802768°). Initially wanted to camp at Laguna de los Hornos but the lake seemed pretty eutrophized (? Not sure if it’s the right word) and I did not want to drink it, even filtered. Since it’s downhill from there, it wasn’t too too long.  Day 6: hiked the remaining few Kms and hitchhiked to Talca. If ever you need accomodation here Hostel 1760 is like a peaceful haven; 30 000cpl and there’s a pool and the rooms are around an interior garden with a fountain. Exactly what I needed.  The takeaway is to definitely not underestimate the terrain, it is rough on your feet, the sand and dust will stick to your face and lips which made me feel thirsty all the way, I always started the day with 2,5L of water which isn’t necessary since there are a lot of streams but I was still always glad to not have to ration my drinking. The river crossing for me was knee high, not sure if I crossed at the wrong place, the water was lower or if I’m especially tall;) did not meet don victor.  *'''2Fev2025 - 6fev2025 / hiking SOBO / RR - OH2A-2-2H - OH3A-3 - RR / 5 days / Clara''' Parque Ingles : I did the same as Volker (see below) to enter the park cause I couldn't buy a ticket for the park the day before. But I was afraid and I think it would have been bad if I encountered a park ranger. Hopefully I didn't and they didn't ask for park reservation at El Bolson Camping. When I said that I won't come back by this path but go further he didn't say anything (only the owner). Camp at laguna las animas. Very nice camp spot and lake to swim. No shade. Some stonewall to pitch the tent and protect a bit from the wind. Ford 29.4 : not so easy, up to mid thighs (1.57) but fast flowing in the begining of afternoon. Then it's a loooong way up in soft volcanic sand, very physical. Lot's of water all the way up till ford 32.5. Then there are also still some smaller water flowing around begining of OH2H and the place I camped. Camp here -35,54404, -70,75932 : I found a good wind protected spot (for the NNO wind, less for the NNE of the night end but hopefully it decreased) and I made an almost flat spot there. There is multiple little streams with good water flowing just around that spot. Up to the pass on 2H was easier that I thought but walking down (or more traverse) on the other side was way more harder. Very steep ups and downs in some canyons in soft sand or sometimes big but no stable rocks, snow covered by sand. Last and only water for now after the pass of 2H is at the ford. Took me almost 4h to get to OH3A. I took an OSM path before 3A to gain few meters, a trail is well visible when you arrive from 2H. Around 2900m I went CC to joined OH3A and I found on the way, few meters left to the 3A tracks, some footsteps going up on either big stable rocks or not so soft sand until around 3300m, looks easier than exactly on tracks for the ascent ! Then it's physical soft sand. Went with very small backpack and took me a bit more than 3h to the summit. Descent way much faster. Descending at Don Victor refuge, I met a group of chileans. They offered me harina tostada and food (maybe when they see my terrible face after this exhausting day), and we ended up sharing dinner, fried fishes and evening there. If I understood well, they told me that since this year, Don Victor make people pay (25k?!) to camp at his place (or just pass through?), not the locals but the tourists. But since he was not here I didn't need to care about this. They learned me their fishing technic the day after at Laguna del Caracol and I had 2!! (They had 10kg in half day). Magic encounters with theses so generous and nice persons. Camp at 62.2 (just a bit upper than the waypoint) is nice. Nothing special to add for the last day except not much workers going down the MR even on week days.  * '''2024-Dec01-20 to 2024-01-22 / 2.5 days / Hiking /SOBO / RR, option 2 & 2H, option 3 & 3A (Ascended Descabezado), Variants G / Elijah & Michael ''' Plenty of available water from the pass to Descabezado (option 2), however no water available on the climb up. Almost no water around Descabezado, but was able to locate small flow from a snow field. No water available south of Descabezado until end of option 3. Descabezado climb took approx 4.5 hours, 1 hour descent. Incredibly draining due to soft ground and fall-line trail. Shop at bridge after Los Cipreses had snacks and accomodation but not appropriate for resupply.  Hostal La Rivera in Los Alamos offered great accommodation for 50,000 CLP per night (including desayuno). Hostal able to provide lunches and dinner. Almarcen in Los Alamos looked like it had good options but was closed in afternoon (4pm) and morning (10am) and no one was around. Minimarket in La Mina had limited options, possible but difficult resupply. Minimarket in El Medano had slightly better options, but still limited resupply. * '''25-01-13- 25-01-18/ 5,5 days / SOBO/ RR-OH2A-OH2H-OH3-OH3A-OH4-OH3-RR / Volker / Flowers on the moon… Just a magic section / Parque Ingles - Volcan Descabezado Grande - Volcan Azul - Laguna del Caracol - La Mina''' Day 1: Bus from Molina, terminal rural, to Parque Ingles at 8.20. Started there at 10.30 . Avoided Conaf: The bus carried a group for the camping in P.I. and stopped 200m after the Conaf. Instead of going back to register (or taking the MR of OH1) I turned left before the bridge and walked on a path along Rio Claro, a fence to my left. After 500m an open gate allows you to go left and enter a huge camping (nobody there). At the very end of the camping the fence is down, once out, I walked CC to join the RR. Minimum three dozens of young Chileans on their way to El Bolson, when I arrived, still nobody there except the owner, who asked me to register. I told him, I go to Laguna Las Animas - all fine. Camped at the Laguna, short day. Day 2: 30 min after the Laguna another, smaller lake with camp spots. At the pass I made the short detour for Cerro Las Animas (nice view back on the Laguna) then along volcanic slopes with a lot of various flowers to the hot spring (no bassin, just a hot swamp, go for Fango). For various reasons I changed my original plan to continue on Option 2b direction V. Descabezado Chico, one reason was the (non indicated) ford, which looked very dangerous, at least for a solo hiker. So I continued on RR, quite swampy, the trail dissappears in wet meadows. If you know you want to continue on the RR - better don‘t go down to the river and the hot ‚spring‘, but cut this CC without elevation loss. Lots of cows on the way to the pass. Many small rivers, which all feed Estero El Volcan, therefore the two fords on the RR are way easier. I took Option 2A, then Option 2 and then Option 2H and camped not far from the start of 2H.  Day 3: On 2H CC to the pass and then down to the start of Option 3a for the V. Descabezado. Ford easy. At S 35.592096° W 70.786105° don‘t go down into the canyon as indicated, but bypass it left by going a bit upwards. Started with a small backpack on option 3a for the summit at noon, arrived at 2.30. At 3400m ff. easy rock climbing some 20 meters left of the indicated route - less physical and more fun than on the gravel/sand. Almost no wind on the summit, just wonderful, highly recommend it! Very quick down to the backpack, while resting there for 15min 6 condors in the air, circling very low directly over me. Breathtaking minutes. Then continued until camp at 06-03: 5,9. The indicated spot is protected, as there was close to no wind, I climbed the next dune with an extraordinary view to the west (sunset!) and camped there.  Day 4: Volcan Azul - What a great summit! You might think, Descabezado is the highest, why climb another volcano, which is so close? Nothing could be more wrong. They are completely different and V. Azul beats Descabezado in nearly every sense: the landscape, the views (on Laguna La Invernada), the geology. You even can climb the finger at the summit (only the last two meters are technical, there’s a fixed rope, use it, if you trust it, I didn’t). But V. Azul is also way more demanding and you should have a good head for heights for the ascent on the ridge. Very important: when on the ridge, always look, if there are other hikers above or below you: I was alone, but when going down, I several times caused very dangerous falling rocks. All in all the whole way up and down is not difficult, just very steep. But the gravel is very different from Descabezado. This is felt mainly when going down. In large parts you can‘t ski or hop down as on Descabezado. Either the sort of gravel doesn‘t allow it, or the underground (hidden rocks, e.g.). So you have to walk very carefully (it makes no difference if you follow the track files or an OSM route). This slows you down very much and partly is as physical as going up. I started at 6.30 a.m. and it took me 7,5 hours to go up and down (sure, you can camp closer to the ascent, but as I wanted to take option 2H and then option 3 to join the RR at the hot springs, I didn‘t want to walk back with my big backpack). Water: At noon running on the east side of the glacier in the crater, took also snow). Back from the summit I walked the mentioned CC options (however stayed lower to the left and even found a path there, sometimes marked with cairns). When approaching the junction with the RR I saw a lot of horses and people at the refuge. Don Victor had guests. I decided not to bypass them, but to show up and explain, what I am doing here. Good decision! I was offered bread and wine, we chatten, nevertheless I was asked, if I had a permission (could honestly answer, that asking for it is why I came here). Before I left Don Victor and I took a joint selfie… He is not at all a bad guy, he just wants you to show, that you respect his property rights. I also took water there, which allowed me to camp on the magic plateau, that follows on the RR, instead of going down to the indicated camp at 48,1.  Day 5; A short day, very easy on RR to camp at 62,2. Just enjoyed the landscape and the lagunas. After the pass at 59,3 on the way down I went CC left of the RR, crossed 5 brooks to join variant C. In this part a multitude of flowers, at least a dozen different species in all colours: an integral and unforgettable part of this volcano section. Day 6: Very short day, Down to the MR, then an 8km walk to La Mina. The last 2 km I got a ride from a local, who also drove me to the shops on the PR. The changing nature makes the MR walking more interesting, than one might think. You come from a lunar landscape and some hours later almond trees and ripe mirabels! For NOBO hikers: Chilean day-hikers parked their car at the end of the MR. So it should be possible to get a permit from Entel for the entry by car (Uber or arrangement with a local).  * '''2025-Jan-13 to 2025-Jan-18 / 5,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Chris & Jule''' TLDR: no problems with snow, dusty & exhausting gravel/ashes, absolutely stunning views all along, Don Victor was busy. We had an issue with our GPSMAP67 (updated the firmware just prior departure), resulted in weird frozen mode with full backlight brightness in three occasions which drained half the battery. Due to this (despite backups) I was a bit paranoid, so the GPS remained mostly off and we followed footsteps & paths. This worked very well, only one time followed a valley too long. The paths are very obvious, it was easy to navigate.  Water: in all marked locations and many more. Usually every 1-2hrs we passed some stream. We had expected much worse and were a bit overprepared in the beginning. The ashes take water easily, but also give it as easy. Rivercrossings: one, hip-high, quite some current but managable. we crossed where the OSM path crosses the river. Besides, dry feet all along. Snow: some snowfields, one at the descend towards laguna las animas had to be crossed, all others were avoided.  Due the GPS turned off we were very surprised as we suddenly stood infront of Don Victors refugio. We waved and yelled hola, there were about 5-ish tents, so we thought he may have opened a camping space recently. As we wanted to go a bit further, we continued. He either didnt see us, or wasnt too happy - none from the refugio waved back. One person standing at the tents waved back though. Next morning we met Volker who had gone to Don Victor and had a good chat and a drink with him. He had visitors, therefore was too busy to care for us. Later that day a group from the refugio passed on horses, everyone just friendly hola-ed back to us. We met some chilean hiker that had tried to obtain all permits for a certain hike, CONAF told them, that since a few days Don Victor does not allow anyone anymore. Going back to Talca: we heard busses leave at 7am, 1pm, 3pm, 7pm (at least on saturdays). We ended up hitchhiking as we didnt want to want for 2hrs. It took us maybe 10min (maybe fourth car) to squeeze into a ride with wonderful chileans returning from bathing in some hotsprings.  * '''2025-Jan-03 to 2025-Jan-10 / 7,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Farah & Jan''' We started our GPT journey with this section and were amazed by the beauty and diversity of the landscape. Challenges were the rocky and sandy terrain, sometimes dangerous paths and the hot summer sun. Sometimes the path disappeared and we lost it, but with a GPS device it was easy to notice and get back on track. Dangerous snow bridge at (S 34°31.4980’ W 070°44.8453’).  River crossings were no problem, one was hip high (we’re 1,75 m and 1,83 m), all the other ones knee high or less. Didn’t meet Don Victor. Definitely follow Jan Dudeck’s recommendation and use gaitors. We didn’t as we opted for hiking boots instead of low trekking shoes and kept on collecting enough sand and gravel in our boots to build a children’s playground. Day 1 We took the bus from Molina to Parque Inglés and hiked to El Bolsón on the first day, where we camped. Only had tickets for one day for the Parque Nacional Siete Tazas and weren’t sure if we technically would’ve needed one for two days, but the official let us camp there nonetheless after checking our tickets. Day 2 Hiked to Laguna de las Ánimas where we met Sean & Neele on their way NOBO and had a nice quick chat with them. At the end of the ascent out of Valley del Indio, right below the pass, there was an icey snowfield, which we traversed using crampons - it would’ve been possible without but felt safer with them. We camped at Laguna de las Animas, which was beautiful. Day 3 From Laguna de las Ánimas we continued over the pass at [19.4/2547] after which we encountered some sketchy paths along steep gravel slopes: At some parts the path had slipped downhill and if doing one wrong step, we would’ve too. Take care at this part of the section! Camped near the Hot Spring del Azufre. Day 4 We weren’t sure if we could drink the water near the hot spring because it all stank like sulfide so we hiked uphill a bit before refilling our water. There, we also encountered the only bigger river crossing at [29.4/2190] - hip high and a bit of a current but still doable at the right spot. Higher up that valley (S 34°31.4980’ W 070°44.8453’) we found a pretty dangerous snow bridge over a creek and decided to walk/climb around it which was also a bit dangerous as it took us over very loose rocks right next to an at least 20 m drop but way more controllable than the snow bridge next to it. We left the valley behind us and camped at a beautiful spot right next to a river and with a wonderful view of the surrounding rocks and mountains (S 35°31.9714’ W 070°47.4839’). Day 5 Descended the valley, met two French hikers who did the Condor Circuit and had a quick chat with them, passed Descabezado Grande and the Refugio at [45.5/1887] but didn’t meet Don Victor. We camped at the Water/Camp at [48.1/1837] - what a beautiful little oasis! Day 6 Hiked past the Laguna del Caracol and originally wanted to reach the camp at [62.2/1999]. However on the ascent to the pass at [59.3/2518], Farah’s knee started to hurt and the pain got worse, so we decided to take some rest and camped in a small depression right next to a snow field roughly 100 hm below the pass. Despite the exposed location there was almost no wind and we got to enjoy a breathtaking view on the two Descabezados and the valley at their feet. Day 7 Farahs knee got better, we ascended the remaining roughly 100 hm to the pass and from there descended to the water at [73.5/1014] We camped on the shore of the Rio Cipreses nearby. Day 8 In the morning we woke up by the sound of people: Some local fishers from San Clemente walked past our tent, we wished them buenos días and had a friendly chat with them. Later that morning, they gifted us three freshly caught trouts which we happily ate right on spot. We then descended the remaining 6 km to the bus stop at {06-E} [0.5/862], where we wanted to catch an afternoon bus to Talca that we found on the bus services Facebook page. However, the bus didn’t come and we learned from the owner of the shop at {06-E} [0.5/856] that the buses only leave once a day at 7 am. He sold us Coca Cola, chips and chocolate bars and rented us a room (without private bathroom but access to his own bathroom) for 30.000 CLP and we spent the night there. The 7 am bus didn’t come either so we hitchhiked to a bus stop west of San Clemente and took a bus to Talca there.   * '''2025-Dec-31 to 2025-Janv-6 / 5.6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 3 (Descabezado) / Peggy & Dorotà'''Magnificent, grandiose, and isolated section. Difficulty: dryness, sandy and volcanic rocky terrain, sometimes tiring. No water issues, but be sure to drink plenty. First part, each on our own. I (Peggy) started the GPT with this section from El Bolson. I chose to take an Uber to get to the entrance of the Siete Tazas park (30k CLP). I had bought the park ticket online beforehand but it wasn't the right one. I should have purchased a ticket specifically for the El Bolson trail. However, the park ranger was accommodating. On my driver's advice, I paid 7k CLP for the El Bolson camping to enter the park but didn't spend the night there. I was given a document that I had to hand over on my way down. I followed this advice for convenience, although maybe it wouldn't have been an issue if I had just explained where I was going? I didn't encounter Don Victor throughout the section, though I had sent him a message he didn't see. Upon arriving at Laguna de las Animas, I met Dorota, and we decided to do this section together. There was little snow, with a few rare snowfields that were easily passable or avoidable, except for a large section where it helped us cross a river. Indeed, after the Termas de Azufre, at the ford at kilometer 29.4, finding the river too strong in the morning, we followed the right bank of the river until we found snow covering the river. After leaving the dangerous start behind us, we crossed the snow where it was thick and could walk on it for a while before crossing to the other side. No problems with the other fords. A bit past the refuge at the foot of Descabezado Grande (km 45.5), there are good bivouac spots (S 35°35.7470’ W 070°49.5695’). We climbed Descabezado Grande from this refuge, starting early in the morning. We made a big mistake by forgetting to take water! It seems we both had a moment of "temporary unconsciousness"! We also thought we would find water from the snow higher up, which we did, but only in the form of snow. We managed to collect what we could by putting the snow in our bottles to melt a bit. There was also a bit of water flowing from a snowfield but only in the last part. So, make sure to think about water! Moreover, it’s better to sleep on the volcanic plateau to get closer to the summit, avoiding the 2000m elevation gain all at once (that was actually our initial plan…) with water! Especially later in the season when the snow has melted. The 2000m elevation gain with little water was difficult, especially moving from 3000m to 4000m with some altitude sickness. Nevertheless, it was a good learning experience for both of us. Once at the top, we could appreciate the magnificent view of the snowy crater of Descabezado and the surrounding scenery. The climb is not technical but can be long if started from the bottom and strenuous. But it’s definitely worth it! It took me (Peggy) two days to realize that by keeping my pants on, I no longer suffered from sand and stones in my high-top shoes! And yet, I wasn’t suffering from altitude-induced brain fog! ;) In summary, a magnificent, wild, grandiose, and isolated section. Perfect to start with!   '''2024-Dec-30 to 2025-Jan-5 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option 6 + option 3 (Descabezado) / Sean & Neele'''