9
ediciones
Cambios
→Season 2025/26: Added track log
==Season 2025/26==
* '''GPT38 / 2026-02-03 to 2026-02-07 / 5 days / SOBO / Anti Clockwise / Hiking / Variant A, RR, Opt 01, RR, Variant A / Alex and Aoife''’
Glacier Chico, Carmela Peninsula.
Attractiveness: 5/5
Difficulty: 1/5
Beautiful views of Chico Glacier and O'Higgins Glacier if you get to make it to Peninsula Carmela.
Day 1:
Distance: 21km
Time: 1040-1930
Water: Numerous water spots
Left Maria and Ricardos with fresh bread in our bags and belly's at around 10.15am on variant A to the RR. We also Left a food bag with them which was no worries at all.
Went and spoke to the Gendarmarie at the Chilean border control. Where they asked us a few questions, similar to a trip intention form some National Parks have.
- Contact details
- Emergency contact
- Route planned
- How many days of food
- Took our photos
It was all completed with a smile and friendly manner. They asked us to come by when we finished our hike and we then set off.
Route:
Very enjoyable, easy walking, we stopped for lunch at ( -48.828432, -72.794089) where there was a stream.
After lunch the terrain was very open and undulating, numerous animal trails. Had to constantly check GPS as it was easy to go off. Although technically it wasn't hard, we Found the constant checking of trails slow.
Saw farmer from a distance at:
Settler [19.1/282 Cerro.Colorado abandoned)
Not abandoned, when we got near. We called out. Owner never came out. We carried on walking.
Camp:
(-48.86614,-72.89986) incredible views, relatively sheltered , ground not fully flat. Numerous good water sources before and after camp.
Another optional camp site at (-48.87116,-72.90549) bit further away from farmer, stream near by.
Day 2:
Distance: 8.5km
Time: 0730-1100
Water: Streams near camp at start and near abandoned (not so abandoned) settler.
Route:
We got up earlyish with the intention of getting to the river to catch Don Lucho.
Not far in we were again being mislead on animal trails and finding the correct trail finding slow so it took us longer than expected.
Once we got within eye site of:
Settler {38} [27.1/261] (Estancia Ventisquiero Chico, abandoned ?)
Which is not abandoned. It is owned by Don Lucho, but he doesn't live there, a few guys working for him were living there at the time.
We stopped for a break and some water from the stream there. A man on a horse appeared, we told him our intention to go visit Carmela Peninsula and to try catch Don Lucho. Lucky for us, We were talking to the man himself! He advised us he would be back and take us over in the afternoon (Tarde, which as we have learnt is considered all the way upto darkness)
We hung out relaxed around that area all day, at around 2130 we figured either we got the message or wrong or he wasn't coming back.
Camp:
We pitched our tent next to his horse yards at around (-48.91389, -72.96153). At about 2215 Don lucho appeared on Horse back with two other men and around 10 dogs and a couple of cows They had caught and Brought back. Everyone looked tired, he said It was fine For us to camp there and to meet him at the river (-48.90912, -72.98027) opposite his house at 0800.
Day 3:
Distance: 8.9km
Time: 0730- 1100
Water: stream at Don Luchos and at campsite.
Route:
We walked on option 1 the 1.5km to the river. At 0750 Don Lucho appeared by his Row Boat on the other side. He paddled over and picked us up and took us onto Peninsula Carmela. His place is quite an Oasis there, he lead us over to the trail head.
We explained we were going to camp up there and come down the following day which he told us he will take us over in the afternoon. He asked for 20k CLP total.
Easy walking on a clearly defined track, slightly steep for short intervals.
It was a windy day so once we were up top we were getting gusts of around 60-70kmph straight from the southern ice field so the temperature was ‘invigorating’. Views of Glacier O'higgins were spectacular.
Camp:
Camp {38} [32.0/744
-48.92009, -73.05421
Beautifully sheltered camp site with a nice stream running through it. Due to cold and windy weather, we were happy to use this as a rest day and just park up for the remainder of the day.
Sunset and sunrise views at -48.91952, -73.05376 2 min walk from camp.
Day 4:
Distance: 13.8km
Time: 1030-1430
Water: No issues, plenty around.
Route:
Walked The leisurely 3.5km to:
Viewpoint {38} [35.5/874]
-48.92954, -73.09554
Incredible views. Probably The best we have seen on the few sections we have done of the GPT so far.
Descended back down To Don luchos where we waited out of the wind and read a book. He appeared at around 1930 looking tired saying he will take us over tomorrow morning at 0800 and to camp at his.
Camp:
Don Lucho took us to a little fenced off section, by his house had a pipe from the stream for water, nice grass, wasn't completely sheltered but wasn't too bad.
Day 5:
Distance: 25.5km
Time: 0800 - 1600
Water: Plenty
Route:
Don Lucho rowed us back Over at 0800, we said our goodbyes and continued on option 1 to RR back over the pass to Candelario Mancilla. Saw our final views of Chico Glacier as we were ascending to the valley be the pass.
The walking was easy on a very prominent track. Took our shoes off at 2 fords, nothing to mention there. The walking is quick once on the MR back to Candalario.
We actually passed 3 other people that day in two party's none of whom were GPTers who were going to try and visit Carmela. Which kind of took us by surprise.
We went back past the Gendarmarie. We signed their form to say we were back and safe and they asked us to complete the Salvoconducto form that night so we could leave for Argentina the next day.
Camp:
We went back to stay at Ricardo and Marias. They had received a food delivery that day and had beers for Sale at 2k CLP from memory as well as more fresh baked bread and eggs.
'''2026-Jan-16 to 2026-Jan-18 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Kole'''
Route (includes part of GPT39):
El Chalten > Lago del Desierto > Border Posts > RR through Valley/Pass > (Failed) Attempt at Don Lucho Crossing to Peninsula Carmela > Mirador Glacier Chico Piedra Grande > Candelario Mancilla
Day 0:
After having completed GPT39 with Emily and returning to town, I started off for GPT38 road walking from El Chalten around 17:00. This was probably late in the day for anyone to be heading to Lago del Desierto, so was unlucky getting a hitch all the way, and with some wind and rain decided to pitch near the GPT39 Valle Eléctrico trailhead: -49.22676, -72.94118
Day 1:
Quickly got a hitch in the morning to Lago del Desierto. Heading north on the trail along the lake was nice, many birds along the way in the forest. Both sides of the border crossing went quickly, but the Argentine officer made sure that I headed straight to the Chilean post the same day. The walk between the two posts is straightforward. I camped at Ricardo’s campground 1km past the Chilean border post. Eggs and pan for sale. Great views of Lago O’Higgins and Peninsula Florida.
Day 2:
In the morning I stopped by the Chilean border post to fill out a form outlining my plans to visit Peninsula Carmela. I told them I was hoping to cross the channel with Don Lucho but they did not seem to notify him. The Valley/Pass along the RR was a nice hike, but a bit boggy at the top, and easy to lose the trail on the west side while descending. I arrived at 16:00 across the channel from Don Luchos. I called out and was answered by his dogs, someone briefly walked around the corner, saw me and then turned back around out of sight. Figuring he was busy, I camped out and waited for the next 4 hours intermittently hollering without trying to be too desperate or bothersome. At 20:00 I accepted defeat and walked back to pitch at Settler {38} [27.1/261]. This was a great peaceful and sheltered place to camp: flat, tall grass, many trees.
Day 3:
Went for another attempt at Don Lucho’s, arriving around 7:45. I called out and again saw someone but they made no movements to the channel and walked out of sight. Determining that they weren’t available for a channel crossing, I hiked to the mirador of Glacier Chico instead, Viewpoint {38} [32.2/484] (Piedra Grande). The trail up to the viewpoint was easy to lose and a bit overgrown but not too challenging in good weather. Overall it was worth it and great views. I hiked back to Candelario Mancilla on the same RR through the Valley/Pass. Arrived back at the Chilean border post to close out the expedition form, then camped again at Ricardos. Could connect to WiFi and purchase a ferry ticket to Villa O’Higgins for the next day. Ferry ended up being delayed another day due to wind.
Ferry WhatsApp: +56966278836
''' 2026-Jan-10 to 2026-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, A, D, E / Emily'''
Beautiful section and well worth the detour - great views of glaciers, easy walking, and no one around. I did an out-and-back on the RR to the first marked viewpoint for Glaciar Chico. Unfortunately I had to cut my route short due to not being able to catch Don Luis, a short weather window, and a need for gear repairs. If you’ve time, I think it would be well worthwhile to spend longer on this section. Attractiveness - 4/5. Difficulty - 1/5.
Camps
Night 1: -48.94216, -72.96680. (As suggested by Michael and Kasia in 2024/25 season). Good spot, but quite a bit of animal excrement around.
Night 2: Ricardo’s at Candelario Mancilla (Settler {38-A} [0.5/310]). 10.000 CLP p/n.
* I signed in with the Carabineros prior to leaving - very quick process.
* Trail is mostly clear and easy to follow. There are some small parts of overgrown trail, particularly on the descent from the pass, however these can easily be avoided by taking Variants E and D.
* Trail is well-marked with red paint/yellow reflective stickers along the Glaciar Chico trail.
* Viewpoint 32.2/484 (Piedra Grande) is worth the backtrack and beautiful at sunset. There is a small, flat-looking spot here that would be a nice camp in perfect weather (no protection, likely prone to flooding, dry camp).
* I started along Option 1 for Peninsula La Carmela and arrived at the Don Luis’ in the early morning (around 7am). After trying and failing to get his attention for a while, I cut my losses and started back. I didn’t hear any dogs, so assumed he was not home. Although I informed the Carabineros I would be taking that route, I’d suggest explicitly asking them to radio the gaucho beforehand.
* For Ford 6.8/556, look for a rock shelf heading downstream on a diagonal (starts on the eastern bank around -48.90159, -72.77769). While the ford is easy at the waypoint, fording along here is below the knee (165cm).
* Signed back in with the Carabineros around 5pm. I asked if I could start to the border that evening (i.e camp in Chile, and arrive in Argentina the next morning) but they said it was too late. I camped at Ricardo’s for wifi and my salvoconducto, but the Carabineros noted I could also camp near their horses.
* Immigration was quick the next day; 15 minutes in Chile, 5 in Argentina. Both were very friendly. I continued on to GPT39 and was able to hitch from the southern end of Lago del Desierto.
<big>'''GPT38/ 2025-12-15 to 2025-12-16/ 1 day/ Hiking/ NOBO/ RR/ Greg Carter'''</big>
Note: this hike was a continuation from GPT39 (see separate log), and just a transit section for me to get to Candelario Mancilla.
Attraction: 1
Difficulty: 1
After hiking to the northern end of Lago del Desierto, I had my passport stamped by a friendly gendarme and continued onto GPT38. It is 22km to Candelario Mancillo, the first 7km (to the border with Chile) is slow going, in forest with a lot of up and down, mud and fallen branches. The last 15km (in Chile) was easy, being entirely on a well-maintained secondary road. In Candelario Mancillo my passport was stamped by a friendly carabinero, after he took approx 20min to do some online checks.
I then walked about 1km S-E, along the coastal road, to get to the campground Camping Estancia Santa Teresita (-48.87812, -72.73993). There is a friendly manager called Ricardo. Cost CLP10,000/night per tent. Free StarLink wifi! Freshly baked pan. No cervezas when I was there.
*'''GPT 38 / 2025-11-21 to 2025-11-23 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / RR, Opt 1 Peninsula La Carmela, RR / Bailey'''
Day 1
Woke up at the Argentinan border. The border opened at 8:30 am. We received our exit stamp and continued to the Chilean border. Had lunch by the river and bridge after the airstrip.
We were greeted with a coffee, cigarettes, dogs and friendly carabineros at the Chile border control. We received our entry stamp, they didn't check our bags.
We told the carabineros about our plan to visit Mirador O'Higgins glacier. They took our photos, asked if we had enough food, if we had a satellite device, and made us sign a document. We left after 5:30 pm. They seemed a bit reluctant to let us leave this late.
We were told they had a radio to communicate with the gaucho, and said they will give him a heads up we were on our way.
We arrived at 8:00 pm, we camped in the forest at S48.889469° W72.816748°. there were a few good flat spots here and sheltered, with a water source.
Day 2
We started hiking by sunrise. The pass was incredibly beautiful with the morning light. There's plenty of bog up here.
The river fords were okay. Only knee deep for me. After the first ford we encountered the only snow on the trail.
On the descent you get an incredible view of glacier Chico. I found a morel mushroom before the marked campsite. Towards the end of the descent, we lost the trail with many animal trails.
When we arrived at the river, we yelled out a few times to the gaucho. First the dogs responded and started barking, and shortly he appeared. It cost us 20,000 CLP for two people both ways. We let him know what time we were returning by roughly.
We left our bags in the forest after the gauchos farm. We continued to Mirador O'Higgins glacier. The trail was pretty good in the forest. We cleared deadfall on the way up. The view of O'Higgins glacier was incredible. The weather started to change on us so we decided to turn around earlier than planned.
The gaucho took us back to the other side. We camped at camp [20.8/693]. Plenty of branches have fallen around here and it was still pretty windy here.
Day 3
Made our way back to the Chilean border. Notified the carabineros that we have returned. Camped at Ricardo's. Starlink available, cold shower, toilet, a shed to sleep inside and eat. He sells beers. You can also charge your phone here. Incredibly beautiful spot
Notified the ferry early that we needed a ride to O'Higgins via WhatsApp. Number +56 9 6627 8836
==Season 2024/25==
All tracks are also on Strava and general contact for questions: https://linktr.ee/RundW
*'''2025-01-01 to 2025-01-04 / 4 days / Hiking & Packrafting / NOBO / Hiking: Option 1, RR, Option 3B, Option 3A, Packrafting: RP Lago Chico, Hiking: Option 14 / Manon, Robin, Lucie, Thomas'''
Day 1: