35
ediciones
Cambios
→Season 2025/26
Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:
<!-- IF YOU COPY FROM THIS EDITING VIEW, YOU NEED TO USE THIS TEMPLATE (* TRANSFORMS INTO BULLET, ''' MAKE IT BOLD):*''' Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting </span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''--><nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>
=Overview=
==Season 2025/26==
''' GPT30/2026-02-06 to 2026-02-09/3,5 days/ SOBO/RR-Variant E/Denis, Robert '''
==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025-FEB-20 to 2025-FEB-23 / 3,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH (var. A, 01) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''
This is an easy section, mostly following a primary route (PR), but it was complicated by Variant 01. This variant crosses a military area that is not accessible, which caused us significant issues. More details below.
We started the section at the Carretera Austral at its intersection with road X-510. In El Gato, due to rain, strong wind and limited time, we decided to follow Variant A and 01. From waypoint X {30H-01} [36.9/621], we turned onto Variant 01, which leads through pastures, the ground was waterlogged at some places. The route here is mostly CC, occasionally following cattle trails and sometimes MR.
Regimiento Las Bandurrias is actually a military zone where entry is strictly prohibited! Although there were no fences, gates, or warning signs, we were detained and taken to a police cell in Coyhaique. Avoid this area at all costs.
CHALLENGES:
Climbing over fences
Waterlogged terrain
Military area restrictions
BIVOUACING:
For a peaceful night's sleep, we had to climb over fences and find shelter among trees. We camped at:
-45.009962, -72.132111
-45.158074, -71.860542
-45.3576230, -71.8754410
WATER:
Water was generally plentiful, except after leaving the PR at a point X {30H-01} [36.9/621], where finding water on the cattle pastures became more difficult. The Ford {30H-01} [60.8/641] was completely dry.
RESUPPLY:
Near Mina El Toqui [km 22.7]: A small shop with basic supplies, good for emergency resupply.
El Gato [km 45.5]: A well-stocked minimarket.
Nireguao: Several stores, but half of them were closed on Saturday afternoon, including the only two restaurants.
* ''' 2025-FEV-08 > 11 / 3 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 30-E > RR > 30-F > RR / Pierre-Marie '''
Etape : GPT27+GPT28+<strike>GPT29</strike>+GPT30
| Meteo : petite pluie et vent, soleil
| Eau : difficile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 3/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : gravel road, cross country en forêt
Je suis arrivé à Villa Manihuales à 16h j'ai fait quelques courses puis j'ai repris la marche à 17h. Je voulais faire de l'auto-stop mais il y a très peu de voiture (~2/h) sur la route X-423 qui longe le Rio Ñireguao. L'auto-stop n'a pas fonctionné, j'ai marché les 14 premiers km et me suis arrêté pour camper. Le lendemain (dimanche matin) je savais que l'auto-stop ne fonctionnerait pas alors j'ai marché jusqu'au point (45.145727° S 71.905759° W) et j'ai coupé dans la prairie jusqu'au point (45.168342° S 71.879589° W) sur le GPT. Petite pluie l'après-midi. Déjà sur le GPT28 j'ai trouvé que les cartes en libre accès était peu fiable (il manque des chemins, des rivières, des lacs...) et ça se confirme sur ce GPT30. Nouvelle journée avec petite pluie mais il a beaucoup plu la nuit et le niveau des rivières a monté. Vers le km 72, le sentier est difficile à suivre et disparait 300m à l'ouest de la trace GPS. Ensuite j'ai grimpé en hors piste en suivant les endroits avec le moins de végétation. Je n'ai jamais fait de bush-bashing sur cette montée car la végétation ne dépasse pas les mollets. Ensuite on arrive sur la crête. Ca a vraiment été dur car il y avait énormément de vent et il neigeait une neige très dur. Je n'ai pas eu de belle vue et je suis redescendu rapidement pour fuir le vent glacial du sommet. On retrouve rapidement le sentier dans les bois, un peu boueux à cause de la pluie. Dans la vallée je suis passé par la 30-E car sur le RR il y a plein de clôtures et de chiens, et je déteste sauter des clôtures juste devant des maisons. J'ai eu du mal à trouver de l'eau. Au km 103 il y a un pont.
La suite est simple jusqu'au km 123 ou ça se complique d'un coup. Il faut suivre la clôture qui longe la réserve nationale de Coyhaique. Il y a presque toujours un côté sans végétation, il faut juste sauter la clôture. J'ai suivi la 30-F car suivre la clôture ne m'interessait pas vraiment. Le seul problème c'est qu'à la sortie du parc on m'a posé des questions et on m'a demandé si j'avais payé. J'ai répondu que j'avais longé la clôture et que je n'étais pas passé dans le parc. FEV-12: Repos Coyhaique.
==Season 2023/24==
* '''From 2024-01-27 to 2024-01-30 // 4 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT2 // Quentin Clavel'''
I left Coyhaique with the intention to go explore the reserva nacional. They let me know that it was impossible to just pass threw and don't make the loop. You have to check out when you leave the reserva.
After long negociations with Orlando the guardaparque explaining my roadw and tell them I will send them a message with my GPS when I left the parc, they finally let me go. 8,500 CLP the entrance.
I've been to cerro cinchao, then bush bash straight after it to join the carretera austral, and take the little path who finally go to the RR. I recommend to continue the loop to the end of Variant F, then take the RR.
I recommend to take the Variant E (following the carretera austral for 1 km) instead of going CC because there's few houses there, people look at you strangely (even if they salute you back with their hands) as you're passing threw fences, dealling with cows, bulls and barking dogs.
After that, an ultimate gate to pass, in front of a house, where they give me the permission, to reach the top of the pass. (Take water before the carretera austral, as I haven't seen rivers when I passed threw just very small streams, but better to take at the bottom of each side of the pass).
People were very nice on this section, settler Leo especially, KM55,7, very kind and sympathic man !
Rio was not hard to pass at this time of the year.
There's a minimarket at El gato but close when I pass threw (too early on the morning)..
There's a micro market after the mine (near the KM22/23) , on the right side of the road, with a sign supermarket, it's directly inside the house of the woman. Very nice, not a lot of stuff, but good to know in case of emergency.
Then from El gato it's 40 km of a gravel road, followed by 5 km on the heavy carretera austral to finish this section.
This last part is definitely less attractive compare to all the section that I really liked, surrounding are still nice, with mountains and Rios, but you're on big gravel or asphalte road, and that make it less interesting.
==Season 2022/23==
*'''30-Mar-2023 Hiking / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''
We decided to go with more optional trails here, because of the weather forecast, and also because it is mostly road walking anyway. After a night spent close to the bus stop at the end of section 29, we continued on the Carretera until approx. km 5, where RR turns right to X-421, but we decided to continue around Lago Aguirre Cerda to Villa Manihuales. This part took us 1 day, but we were in the town quite early, so we could have a nice dinner (2-3 restaurants open, we went to the burger place), buy everything we needed and find a camp. We stayed for 10k CLP in Dona Ruth camp, where you have hot water, electricity, and a common refugio for cooking. From there we continued to the junction of X-500 and Route 7 and in the late afternoon connected back to the RR at km 88. No problem with passing around the settlements. We spent the night at km 93.7, by a small lake. The rest of the trail is again straightforward, even though we lost the track around km 115, and this made us take an unnecessary detour. It was because we followed some minor road in the forest, so keep an eye on the GPS there. Because of all the road walking, we found this section not so attractive, but especially the last part before Coyhaique had some nice views.
Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka
*'''27 Nov 2022 Frank'''
Rio Nireguao near El Gato was not fordable in late November - chest deep & running fast. It was easily fordable & only knee deep in late January. Rio Nireguao is the only serious ford on GPT30. All other rivers had bridges or were easily fordable. It is highly advisable to attempt the ford SOBO only. It's a 10 minute walk from the road. If you are unable to cross it NOBO you will have to backtrack for 1 or 2 days.
The only trail currently open is a loop walk to Laguna Verde, not on the GPT. I asked if I could walk NOBO to exit the park at Rio Baguales. "No, closed" To avoid complications I walked around the park on the road. I got the bus to Rio Baguales & walked to Coyhaique, 13KM downhill. Any bus to Villa Ortega can drop you there. There is a carabinero post at Rio Baguales, I'm not sure if they would let you walk through it to enter the Reserva SOBO. Road is busy & parts are very dusty, not a nice walk, you could bus around it to start at Rio Baguales.
* GPT30H'''23 Nov 2022 4 days RR mostly SOBO Frank'''
==Season 2017/18=Resupply and Accommodation=
==Season 2016/17Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==
*Bring supplies from Coyhaique. You can top up at a small shop in El Gato.
There's a micro market after the mine (near the KM22/23) , on the right side of the road, with a sign supermarket, it's directly inside the house of the woman. Very nice, not a lot of stuff, but good to know in case of emergency.
==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==
=Transport to and from Route=
*2023 info: There are buses from Coyhaique bus terminal to El Gato on Monday, Wednesday & Friday at 5AM & 4PM & on Sunday at noon & 4PM. The bus goes via Villa Ortega & Nirehuao & gets to El Gato in about 2 hours. They stop in El Gato for anything between 30 minutes & 1.5 hours before returning to Coyhaique.
There are occasional buses from Coyhaique to Villa Ortega & (less frequently) to Emperador Guillermo on Ruta 7.
=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=
*27 Nov 2022 Frank
Retired Section Article [[GPT30H - Coyhaique]]