41
ediciones
Cambios
sin resumen de edición
==Season 2025/26==
'''2026-Feb-5 to 2026-Feb-8 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-2A, RR, Variants C and F, OH-4, OH-4C / Emily'''
I combined GPT8 and 9, from Termas de Chillan to Trapa Trapa. I joined GPT9 at ~29.2km (intersection with 08-04) at midday of Day 4 (4.5 days total).
Highlights were Los Peucos termas and Option 4, particularly the ridge and final 10km coming into GPT9. Challenges included occasional BB to avoid agitated cows. Attractiveness - 4/5, Difficulty, 2/5.
Camps
Night 1: Los Peucos (64.2/1191).
Night 2: -37.216593, -71.304660. Flat, gravel (lumpy), no protection. Great view. Water at lake or stream 150m along RR.
Night 3: -37.375702, -71.254774. Flat, sandy, no protection. Water available at previous river (~800m before).
* Several campsites on OH-2A just after ford 08-2A (1.6/2097) (rock hop) and following unmarked ford of Rio Diguillin (quite hot). These are on gravel, but away from the herd of cows that were hanging around the camp at 42.6/2087.
* No issues with fords. Ford at 48.7/1334 was only crotch height for entry (165cm), and after a couple steps became shallower, below the knee.
* Highly recommend stopping or camping at Los Peucos. I camped next to a small sheltered hut with a table, benches, fire pit and metal grill. Termas were great and clean. Site was as described in previous 25/26 reports; closed, no ranger/fee, but seemingly okay to camp. Only one other group of equestrian tourists there.
* I found Kris and Stinna’s report below really helpful for OH-4 - thank you! The lake level for Laguna del Laja is now a lot lower; I was able to skirt the coast for the entirety of the first 12.5km, and was able to cross at Option 4C where marked and without fording. If you fancy a swim, I recommend jumping in within the first 10km of Option 4; thereafter the water is murkier/looked less inviting.
Transport: I caught the bus to Terma de Chillan as per the schedule posted by Volker below, 3.900clp. The final stop (-36.91088, -71.42120), is 2km from the OH-2A trailhead. I was fortunate to stay for free at the staff accomm of a girl I met on the bus - accomm is otherwise very expensive and I couldn’t see any good stealth camp spots.
* '''GPT08 | 2026-01-04 to 2026-01-09 I 5,5 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Variant F - RR - Variant G - RR | Michaela '''
Day 1:
I hitchhiked from San Fabián and was very lucky. Some people took me to the waypoint where the trail to Salto Las Minas starts. I started after midday with the hike and crossed Río Ñuble about 1.5 km upstream from the RR ford (-36.843437, -71.236798). The crossing was easy, water up to knee height.
I completely avoided bushbashing by crossing Estero El Quebrado at -36.856431, -71.275622, where there is a trail. I returned to the RR at -36.858428, -71.279562, as suggested by Martin (thanks!).
Camp: -36.865234, -71.290436. Dusty place, water about 150 m away.
Day 2:
The hot spring [40.6/2173] was excellent. I had lunch there and took a long bath. Crossing Río Diguillín was easy, but water reached waist height. There are probably better crossing points.
Camp: -36.963371, -71.397603, next to the river.
Day 3:
I hiked to Termas Los Peucos and arrived around midday. Two groups of men with horses were there. They told me the place has been abandoned for some time, but camping and using the hot pools is no problem. Later they left, and I had the whole place to myself.
Camped at the Los Peucos campsite.
Day 4:
All river crossings were easy. The worst part was the horseflies. From midday until evening, they were constantly around me.
Camp: -37.15623, -71.319804, grassy spot, many horseflies.
Day 5:
I had a very nice lunch break and swim at Laguna El Roble. When I reached the mountain pass, I noticed a thunderstorm approaching from behind. I was on the ridge with no option to descend quickly. I waited about two hours under bushes for protection until the storm passed.
Camp: -37.233919, -71.402365. Nice grassy spot, water a bit away.
Day 6:
I hiked down to Central El Toro and had lunch at Río Polcura. After that, I followed a long minor road to the point Bus {08-J} [2.9/734], from where I hitchhiked to Antuco.
Accommodation: Cabañas Puelche
'''2025-12-23 to 2025-12-26 / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 04 and 04a / Martin Ankel'''
Day 01
Hitchhiked from San Fabian to Los Sauce, after 3 hours of waiting and many false alarms (people only going a few kilometers outside of San Fabian) I struck gold. Joseph and Mattias stopped, they where going to the Saltos Las Minas waterfal and drove me all the way, thereby I could avoid horsefly highway and some unnecessary road walking.
There is a new gate here [ 36.819694, 71.253476] that clearly says private property, no passing allowed. Luckily, I’m a good climber.
Fording at {08} [23.8 / 950] was waist deep (I’m 180 cm), not overly rapid and footing was good. Easy if you know how to ford properly. You can also probably find better places to ford.
The bush bashing at the ~28 km is mostly not bush bashing, largely there is a good trail, and the small section that actually is bush bashing can easily be avoided as there runs a trail on the opposite side of the river, I forded here [36.856910, 71.276356] but you should ford about 100 meters downstream or so, just follow the trail. I then walked the trail on the other side of the river, forded again here [36.858428, 71.279562], again follow the trail, and connected back to the regular route. I recommend rerouting the route for next year based on my GPS recording.
The hot spring (or hot river) at [40.6/2173] was absolutely amazing. Make sure to stop there.
Additionally there is a new bridge built over Rio Nuble a bit upstream at [36.744770, 71.249650] if you do not want to ford, follow the minor road.
Day 02
Walked to Camping Los Peucos, not open yet, but there was a car there, the sprinkler and some lights where on. I called out but no one answered. I did not risk bathing in the hot springs as it clearly said it was prohibited.
I continued walking. From the [-37.06515, -71.40995] marker the route should be redesignated as trail, there are remnants of a road but completely overgrown and clearly not used anymore. Redesignate to [-37.06886, -71.39601] from there I took variant F. Highly recommend var F, nice animal trail to follow and the ford was easy.
From the trailhead {08} [80.2/1248] the trail is starting to become very overgrown all the way up to the pass. Still easy to follow though as there never is any alternatives. I camped at Camp {08} [87.4 / 1514]. It is flat and ok ground to pitch poles in, but very dusty and your tent will become dirty.
Day 03
Connected to Option 4 running east of Lake Laja. Nice options scenic wise, but absolutely swarming with horseflies. I killed hundreds of those godforsaken creatures. Until starting the climb you mostly walk on stone fields close to the shoreline.
Starting the climb there runs an animal track you can follow. Do not be fooled believing that the high elevation will save you from the horseflies, because it won’t.
Having made the climb I walked a bit on the ridge to see the views before turning back to Option 04a as I was out of water. Option 04a is a nice trail, very easy to walk. You will start to see traces of car tracks after a while and at [37.323878, 71.223060] you are in no doubt walking on a minor road (redesignate the track files) which runs clearly until [-37.40963, -71.27578] at which it comes more diffuse.
In the evening I suffered severe full leg cramp in both legs and crawled my way to [37.367707, 71.250348] where I made my worst tent pitch ever, prayed a silent prayer for a still night and went to sleep. Not the best campsite but there is water nearby.
Two Puestos not in the track files [37.329803, 71.222082] and [37.363379, 71.247417] along option 04a.
Day 04
Awoke feeling like shit, I’m in no doubt very sick. I laid in the tent until it became too hot, at which my only option was to continue hiking. Hiked with little pace and grace the rest of Option 04 and continued on GPT09. I eventually started feeling slightly better and continued onto GPT 10, and most likely further but that has not happened yet.
'''GPT08/2025-12-12 to 2025-12-17/ 5,5 days/ SOBO/RR/ Denis and Robert '''
After two nights in San Fabian in Cabañas Nativa we hitchhiked to El Inglés because the bus goes there once a day at 18:00 (not sure if weekends), it took us 3,5 hours. Shop there has some basic food. Then we hiked to Rio Ñuble, the ford was not the easiest but possible one by one, we slept close to river. Bush at 28,7 was a bit challenging but not too long, we had foggy weather that day, didn’t see more than 20 meters ahead. That day we hiked close to Vulcan Chillán but didn’t see anything because of fog and clouds. Hot river after pass is amazing.
He had breakfast at Camping Los Peucos, it is still close no one there but we didn’t sleep there just chilled in Thermas. The view at the ridge after Laguna El Roble is great, would be worth to camp there, there are some spots for camp. Last night we slept at kilometer 120 next to the road in the bushes, until this moment we didn’t see anyone from power plant. Because we didn’t wanna come to Abanico too late. In the morning on the last day we didn’t have an issue to get to Abanico. Nice resupply shops there.
Attractiveness 5/5 (even we didn’t see Vulcan Chillán)
Difficulty 3/5
*''' 2025.04.12 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt 2A + RR + Var F + Var G + Opt 4 (Ruta Este) / Kris and Stiina '''
We connected the GPT08 and 09 via Option 4 (Ruta Este) recommended by Jan. Termas de Chillán to Trapa Trapa total 5.5 days. 4 days for GPT08 and 1.5 days for GPT 09.
Day 1 - Option 2A from Termas de Chillán. We started in Santiago taking 8:00 bus to Chillán and after 7h of bus rides we got to the start of the trail a bit after 16:00.
You have to go to a different bus station for the rural buses, bus schedule posted by Volker in earlier comments.
As it was already getting late we didn’t go down to fumaroles and took the higher trail unmarked as a variant but is on the map. A few easy snow patches on the way up. There is also and unmarked ford of Rio Diguillin around here (-36.90740, -71.37185) however we crossed it a bit higher up, late in the afternoon the water was really murky and fast flowing but just below the knee, easy, we are 184cm and 175cm. After that we took the trail that is on the map but is also not marked as a variant and follows the river which is not named but starts from the pass higher up. We forded it here (-36.91003, -71.36669) and camped pretty much right after it on a flat spot. The marked Camp {08} [42.6/2087] was nice looking from a distance but was actually on a wet ground. Great views of the Volcán Chillán Viejo, calm night.
Day 2 - Since many people recommended to visit Camping Los Peucos that was our goal for the day. The first “Ford {08} [47.7/1390]” of Rio Diguillín on RR was easier, the river was clear now and the water level was just below the knee. The second “Ford {08} [48.7/1334]” was a bit more challenging and the water was about waist deep. We managed to cross it individually. Tabanos (horseflies) wanted to introduce themselves relentlessly and pretty much became the theme of this section. Regardless of how many you “get rid off” same amount appears a few minutes later, like some sort of dark magic.
Camping Los Peucos was unfortunately still closed but there were other equestrian tourists camping there and no signs forbidding it, so we camped there anyway. The termas were really nice though the big one in the middle was way too hot to even stand in it. Luckily there were plenty of others to choose from, we really enjoyed a relaxing evening soaking ourselves in the termas.
Day 3 - Easy first half of the day mostly walking along the minor dirt roads. Fords on Rio Los Peucos very easy, shin deep. We took the Variant F and it was easy to follow and seemed well trodden the unmarked ford of Rio Polcura at (-37.06842, -71.39166) was really wide and just above ankle deep but very very cold, pain inducing.
After that the Variant F rejoins an even better traveled minor road. Two carabinieros cars passed us one stopped and asked how we are doing and where we are headed. They said if we need anything there is a police post just up the road, perhaps they meant this one “Police ? {08-H} [7.0/1357]”, however we didn’t plan taking the Variant H.
We also met 4 arieros on horses going the other way.
And we also took the Variant G staying on the minor road, I think the views were better from the road higher up rather than going trough the bushy valley.
The junction at “Trailhead {08} [80.8/1248]” is easy to miss if you are not paying attention.
The trail seemed barely traveled and for us this was the most difficult part of the section GPT 08. From: “Trailhead {08} [80.8/1248]” until about “Water {08} [83.2/1599]” - very steep, very hot, very thorny and overgrown - death by 1000 cuts type of trail (we were dressed inappropriately- shorts and shirts) and a lot of relentless tabanos trying to get a juicy sweaty piece of you at any cost. The water at 83.2 was a better lunch spot than the one before. Towards the “Pass {08} [84.5/1744]” once the trail entered more into forest it improved but there were a quite a few fallen trees, over the trail. It felt like if noone will maintain this trail it might disappear in the future. The trail improved going down from the pass.
A nice open valley with the first glimpses of Laguna Laja, however many cows in the valley some with young calves and there were a few bulls aswell. They weren’t agressive but very cautious and protective and we had to keep a safe distance to not provoke them.
We camped at (-37.19790, -71.31353) in the riverbed, pretty much the beginning of Option 4 (Ruta Este). Very windy evening but then the wind died and the night was completely still. We thought we avoided the cows.
Day 4 - We were woken up by about 10 cows “snorting” about 10m from our tent, not the most comfortable of the situations but it also was not our first rodeo, at least it wasn’t a one ton bull standing 2m away. We just stood our ground (kept lying in the tent) and waited for the cows to chill out which they did and eventually they moved onwards with their day and so did we.
We picked up the minor road that didn’t last for too long but we found what would have probably been a better campsite, not exactly at the coordinates but somewhere in this area (-37.21556, -71.30563). There was also some sort of abandoned small building across the road.
The minor road descended into the lake and for more or less the reminder of the coastal walk we stayed right on the coast as much as possible as there the ground was more solid underneath and we could still walk pretty fast. The lake had a lot of “terraces” on the side where the water had been at some point and sometimes to avoid obstacles or the path right on the coast disappeared we walked on those but they were soft beneath the foot and made the walking a bit more difficult. There were a few bluffs to go over but those were easy. Most of the lake side walk though CC was pretty easy and it did get a bit dull at some point.
Another potential campsite on the lake shore that we saw, approx. in this area: (-37.23748, -71.28333).
We also saw a few fishermen boats on the lake that later passed us at the distance and didn’t seem interested in us. They had their camp set up in Bahia El Colorado right before the “Ford {08-04} [12.5/1379] (Estero Colorado)” by the time we got there, we could see they were all fishing higher up the river so we didn’t talk to them.
Approximately the last km until the ford the coastal path disappears and the going gets a bit harder on a scree slope but it was because we stayed a bit too low. Higher up there was some sort of a minor road again, that came back out of the water but because the beginning of it looked a bit overgrown we didn’t take it. Later though it seemed better and we joined it but should have done it earlier.
The ford itself was fast flowing but shallow and easy.
A bit after that the day was getting hot so we took a dip in the lake and the temperature of the lake surprisingly was warmer than expected, but still invigorating.
After that we continued CC along the coast not following the gpx even though I can now see on the satellite that there was some sort of a trail higher up. We went along the coast almost all the way to the Estero Rucos and then turned up the valley towards the “Ford {08-04} [15.9/1397] (Estero los Rucos)” I don’t think that doing it this way was much slower. We forded the river a few times already lower down looking for the best way up the valley, the fords were very easy.
We had a lunch in the bushes near the ford and I believe it’s possible to find a campsite there aswell. The tabanos around here were vicious and they pretty much accompanied us all the way along the ridge walk that followed.
After that came a steep and very hot climb up to the ridge, there appeared some sort of a trail around here (-37.25442, -71.23348) but then we lost it and just aimed straight up for the trail that we could see higher up. Once we got to it it led us all the way to the ridge, though in some places we deviated from it to avoid some bushes.
The trail continued to where the Option 4A joins the Option 4 and went down in the valley. But we wanted to stay on the ridge and it was a very easy CC along the ridge with some really amazing views of Volcán Antuco, Sierra Velluda and the Laguna Laja.
There was also a very good Movistar signal here (-37.30267, -71.24928).
It got a bit harder going when the ground turned more soft under the foot walking on the loose pumice. It was challenging going up but very fun, fast and easy going down. Once we were approaching the pass (-37.36012, -71.25679) we could see trails reappearing crossing the pass and it was a well traveled path down to Estero los Timones. The moment the trail descended into the valley there was a 4x4 track going up the valley and continuing along the Option 4. We forded the little estero around here (-37.36871, -71.25077) and set the camp up right there on the slightly elevated ground on the river bed. It was nice and flat but sandy and a bit exposed to the wind. The wind luckily once again died down for the night and after a mega day I believe I had one of the best nights sleep ever.
Day 5 - In the morning we picked up the 4x4 track we saw yesterday and followed it hoping that the Option 4C would be possible to save us some unnecessary km. The option 4C was under the lake but a bit further we could see a possible crossing. We deviated from the Option 4 at around here:(-37.38999, -71.25340) to shortcut across and saved extra 5km of walking. There was a small ford in the middle of the crossing (-37.39198, -71.25376).
After that we picked up again the 4x4 track that roughly matched the Option 4.
We didn’t miss out on the opportunity to have another dip in the lake with view of the Volcán Antuco across, it was very refreshing and water felt a degree colder than yesterday in Bahia El Colorado.
After that started the loose sand section for about 10 km even though there was still a 4x4 track the ground beneath it wasn’t compacted and walking took some extra effort. Here we mostly followed what for us looked the best, not the track or the gpx. The 4x4 track went off the main Option 4 around where the Option 4D is drawn.
There were a few minor fords along the way. At the ford around here (-37.47633, -71.26346) we had lunch with some shade a bit higher up this side valley.
Our map showed that there is a trail coming down from this valley and after the lunch we picked it up just before the GPT 08 - Option 4 joins the GPT09 RR. We didn’t see any actual trail joining from the GPT09 RR.
This is where for us the GPT08 ended and GPT09 started. (Continued in section 09 log)
Option 4 - difficulty 4/5 attraction 5/5
Since most of it is CC with just occasional track or trail resemblances a lot of it on loose sand and some places steep, it gets 4/5. It wasn’t as difficult as some of the sections we have done. The views and lake swims were definitely worth it.
Section GPT08 in general - Muchos tabanos, more water than marked, good walking, great views.
For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures
*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''
- I re-route the Regular Route of GPT08 due to the right-of-way conflict at Mallin el Toro near the southern terminus of GPT08 (about 4 km north of road between Abanico and Laguna Las Lajas). The Regular Route now descents when hiking southbound to Rio Polcura and the hydro-power station El Toro. When going southbound exiting the hydro-power station El Toro is normally not an issue. When workers see you at the road you might be escorted out of the area (free car ride but connecting-footstep-hikers might cry when being driven out). Anyway, northbound hikers will need to make arrangements to be permitted entering the area going north. See the post from Manon and Robin from season 2024/2025.
- New GPT08 Option 6 (Cerro Gaston): One option to avoid the right of way conflict is this new exploration route. Satellite images suggest a vague trail or animal track up to the ridge starting either at the normally dry outlet of Laguna de las Lajas or somewhat higher up on the road after the first locked gate. Experienced hikers that don't mind scrambling in steep exposed terrain might investigate this exploration route but should turn back if this unverified draft route is unsafe.
- GPT09 and GPT08: Southbound and northbound hikers may also opt for the remote routes east of Laguna de las Lajas (GPT08 Option 4 (Ruta Este)). This is particular useful when combining GPT09 and GP08. When staring on GPT08 going northbound, hikers might first follow the regular route of GPT09 going southbound (around volcano Antuco) and then turn north on the remote eastern side of Laguna de las Lajas.
- Updated GPT08 Option 5 (Costa Las Lajas): Southbound hikers with enough food left may also follow the coast of Laguna de Las Lajas and ascent to the ridge on one of the 3 suggested routes. Note that route 05D is only traversable when the lake level is somewhat low (see Important Information Point GPT08-5D that provides a water level mark for decision taking). These detours promise to be quite scenic and remote combining lake access with walking high up on the ridge and avoiding the right-of-way conflict when descending on the current regular route to Rio Polcura.
- Northbound Start at Termas de Chillan: An other option for northbound hikers to avoid the right of way conflict at Mallin el Toro is starting at the Termas de Chillan halfway into section GPT08.
- Packrafting is also an option to travel along the lake shore or to cross the lake to hike on the eastern side. In this area, early mornings and late evenings are normally calm but in the afternoon wind can get dangerously strong.
==Season 2024/25==
* ''' GPT 08 - NOBO - right of way issue Mallin del Toro / Robin and Manon / Published on Facebook 2025-03-12 '''
With Manon Petit we walked GPT08 NOBO from Antuco. We had some kind of escape game in Antuco to find a solution to the right of way issue at Mallin del Toro. We were not super keen to try the ridge route from Célio Lebailly or Tobias Schorcht, as it trespassed the first gate and looked nasty from below. We talked to a local guide Jorge from Cardinal Adventure (+56 9 5848 1699, can rent material for Antuco), our host Fanny at refugio Antumapu (+56 9 9404 4771 very welcoming and nice, super cheap) and our friends Pablo and Rachel encountered in a hitchhike a few days before. All were aware of the events and did their possible to help out as it impacts tourism in Antuco. Here's what we can tell :
- there has been a serious events in December. Cyclists were confronted by the arriero and friends about some damage done apparently, then molested and their bikes were retained/robbed. Turns out one of the guy was the son of a Los Angeles judge, and there is a case open in court about the events. From there the access has been denied to anyone. We talked with Enrique Marisol the arriero (+56 9 6285 2347). Here is his answer : "Hola buenas tardes Desgraciadamente está restringido el tránsito por el interior del predio solo se permite el ingreso a los residentes,tenemos el lugar ocupado por animales en pastoreo ojalá entienda que no está permitido el paso por el interior Desgraciadamente los mismos turista han provocado en nosotros la molestia actuando de mala fe como rompiendo cercas .derribando nuestros portones dejando que nuestros animales se escapen a predios aledaños ocasionando gastos humanos logísticos y pérdida de algunos animales"
- Our friends finally found out who the dueña is, she is of a family nicknamed here "pichimosca" (small flies), known in Antuco for not being friendly and causing problems. She is the one forbidding access.
- the Antuco municipality is actively trying to resolve the situation
- Carabineros have no hold on this and advise to avoid the area
- Once the persons heard the name of the dueña, they all advised to avoid the area and not having problems with this family. The arriero Enrique is not well appreciated neither, and as far as we understood, he took part in molesting the cyclists.
Concerning options to avoid Mallin del toro
- the Rayenco central in option 6 is a private ground an permit is required to trespass. It is granted if prior permit from one of the two owners of the Campos higher up the Polcura valle.
- the two administrators are Engelbert Egger (+56 9 9239 2826) in fonde del Ciervo on the right bank. Working for an Austrian company of forestal management; and Juan Carlos Navarrete (+56 9 8514 3202) on the left bank.
- we got autorisation from Engelbert, who even picked us up in Antuco and dropped us in fonde del Ciervo. Nice guy, curious about what we're doing. Doesn't want this to be a touristic route, but seemed OK to grant permits to GPT hikers.
- he warned us about troubles with Juan Carlos. Turns out this is the same dueña as Mallin del Toro. The option 6 passes by his puesto and then veraneras before joining the ridge. Since Engelbert dropped us 14km upstream from the bridge, we crossed the Polcura there (not feasible earlier in the season I guess), backtracked on the left bank, and took an OSM route from S 37° 13.017', W 071° 25.823' to the ridge a little before the puesto. Didn't meet Juan Carlos. We joined the RR at S 37° 14.024', W 071° 23.514'.
- the local guide Jorge told us about another solution: bypass with a zodiac on the lake. Héctor Burgos (+56 9 4944 4909) has one and is willing to offer his services. Contact him beforehand as he works in the mines and needs to plan he mentioned 110 kCLP for the transfer.
- another solution is getting up the Polcura valle directly to Los Peucos. This is way shorter, and trail all the way on both banks. You'd miss the ridge, and the trouble !
Hope this is clear enough, lots of info, I'll put that in the wiki. Overall the Mallin del Toro situation should be taken seriously
*'''2025-03-27 to 2025-03-31 / 4.5 days hiking / SOBO / OH 02 + RR + OH E + OH G + OH H + own route around Puesto/ MiaimZelt'''
Day 1: Came from Talca and took the 2pm bus from Terminal Merced to Termas de Chillán. Arrived at 4:30pm and was the last one in the bus. Had to walk 1.5km on the road to reach OH 02. The trail to Pass {08-02} [2.8/2371] was easy, but very steep. No fun, i was stressed a lot because of time pressure, had only 3 hours of daylight left. Hurried down through the incredible Valle Aguas Calientes - what a pity! First hot spring was already occupied with tents. Could have camped near a hot river, but maybe not easy to reach the hot river in the dark. Therefore i continued until Camp {08} [40.4/2150]. Don't recommend this place, the evening and night was super windy, although it was less windy at the pass! Didn't dare to leave the tent to take a bath and didn't fall asleep before 3am.
Day 2: Prepared everything and took a bath in the morning. So good!! RR was wet and sometimes not visible in the valley. Improved soon. Ford {08} [47.4/1390] was below knee and fast flowing. Ford {08} [48.4/1334] was mid tigh (i'm 1.73) and fast flowing. At Puesto {08} [49.6/1423] i saw 2 simple huts: one was locked. Ford {08} [50.5/1305] was possible dry feet. Ford {08} [64.1/1164] was also possible dry feet. Went to Camping Los Peucos and met 2 guys from Conaf. They told me the Camping is now officially closed due to problems with administration. Arrived late and was allowed to stay, very nice gardaparques. I hope they reopen soon, this place is awesome.
Day 3: Short day due to weather forcast: 35l rain and 80km/h winds in the evening and night. All 4 fords at the MR were easy and low, but Ford {08} [71.3/1089] was very long. At least 5 apple trees at OH E! Sendero Los Ratones is nice, but some fallen trees. Searched for a camspot near the pass in the lenga forest. Stayed here on a not really flat place:
-37.128033, -71.3195. Indeed tons of rain after 8pm.
Day 4: Started late at 10am, when rain stopped. Again some fallen trees. Soon i found better and bigger places to camp in the forest, the altitude-lines didn't let me expect this. No more dust! Trail until Laguna Roble was nice and beautiful. Below Laguna Roble i found a rabbit caught in a wire loop. I freed the poor animal, 100m further i saw a dead rabbit in another wire loop. Both campspots at Laguna Roble are nice and well protected in case if bad weather.
Was lucky to climb to Pass {08} [100.6/2035] (El Encanto) on a cool day. Great views from the ridge! Also nice trail. After X {08} [105.4/1934] 200m CC. Camp {08} [106.6/1938] isn't flat. Followed the wrong trail and continued CC at the same altitude until i reached the RR again. Took OH G to get to Laguna Hermosa. Easy CC. Didn’t like the camp at the beach, not good in case of unstable weather. Stayed here: -37.27434, -71.383359 a bit further up. 100m below there is a well sheltered spot between bushes. Started snowing after i pitched the tent. Very cold night.
Day 5: Sunny day, but cold and some snow at the mountains. The following km at the ridge were a bit difficult due to snow and ice. Snow covered the trail and made it difficult to follow. Fortunately i saw animal footprints - wild animals appriciate our trails! Took OH H, there is a nice trail. The beginning of the descent was very steep and still frozen. Improved in the forest. Met two Arrieros with horses and 4 aggressive dogs. Wanted to sneak around Puesto {08} [120.6/1513] to avoid right-of-way issue. First try was a fail - the vegetation was way too dense. Here -37.347131, -71.391773 i could follow an animal trail, which leads to a big meadow. Hiked on the meadow to the MR. Only downside: i was visible from the house, nothing happened. I guess: it's possible to sneak in NoBo when walking early or late when it's dark. Nice trail near Estero El Toro. Walked on the PR and got a very friendly hitch with a chilean couple to Los Ángeles.
*''' 2025-03-14 to 2025-03-16 /3 days / HIKING/ NOBO / OH 02 + RR /Chloe and Mathieu
We tried to to take the OH06 to avoid the right of way issue but when you go Nobo you have to go through the hydroelectrical central. For that you have to go there with one of the landowner located after the central. So we followed the advice of Robin and Manon and contacted Engelbert Egger (+56992392826). He's very Kind but he wasn't in Abanico at this time so he gave us the number of an other man wo has a puesto after the central. He wasn't available as well so we decided to start from Termas de Chillan to avoid this part.
Day 1 : we started from Termas de Chillan and took the OH 02. We went up to the pass, easy trail. We went down to the agua caliente valley, very beautifull and almost all rivers are hot. There is one amazing just after the camp [37.3/2157] where you can bath.
We slept at camp 40.3 where the hot spring is so nice as well.
Day 2: we went up to the pass 39.1 quite sandy but the ascent is short. When we went down we lost the RR because we followed a more obvious trace so keep looking at the GPS. We
reached RR again and followed the route until pass 33.2. Then we went down to the valley of estero Quebrado. At camp 29.5 we lost the track and ended in bamboo fight, so stay to the right side of the estero and it will be fine.
We reached Rio Ñuble and crossed it preatty easily at the exact point on Locus because rivers are lower at this time of the year. We camped here S 36° 48.882', W 071° 15.278' but the camp 20.3 is fine also. The other places are protected by fences and big signs are saying that camping is prohibited.
Day 3: we walked all the way to Puente Engles and found a lift to go to San Fabian de Alico. We slept at the Jahuel camping (15min from center and 8000p/p) nice restaurant : Zambie I Canuta.
Took the bus next morning at 6:20AM to Chillan.
*'''2025-02-23 to 2025-03-02 / 8 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Eric and Jakob'''
Route:
We sticked to the main route the whole time. !!!We had problems at the end of the main Route. Its best to use Option 6 (Rayenco) to avoid right of ways issue.!!!
Travel:
At this section our trip ended that’s why we hitchhiked to Antuco and even though it was Sunday we were able to buy a ticket for a nightbus directly from Antuco to Santiago. The bus left at 22:15 and arrived at 05:30 the following day costing the two of us 54 euros.
Permissions:
In the beginning is a gate a little bit before the marked gate at kilometre 22.8. The gate has signes on it stating that everything is private property and nobody is allowed to enter. The land is owned by a really nice man called Juan. His phone number is +56973133339. He is carrying his phone all the time so just give him a call before entering. He was really friendly to us and gave us immediate permission to cross his territory.
When entering Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja don’t worry about getting a permission to continue hiking. We went to the Park Ranger at km 63.9 and he told us that no permission is needed to cross the national park.
!!!The landowner at km 120.6 doesn’t let any hiker pass! No matter whether hiking SOBO or NOBO. There is also no way to get a permission. That’s why we highly recommend taking the Option 6 (Rayenco) to avoid these problems. He is a really straightforward person who makes you turn around no matter of how much water or food you still have left.!!!
Resupply:
No shops on the whole trail.
Attractiveness: 4-5/5
Difficulty: 4/5
*'''GPT 08 / 2025-02-13 to 2025-02-07/ 7 days / NOBO / Mara & Tobias*'''
short: Avoided the right of way conflict at Puesto {08} [121.6/1513] by taking the ridge (difficulty 6). Water {08} [107.7/1951] is almost dried out. Aggressive cows in the valley close to Camp {08} [89.4/1449].
Day 1: startet at Gate {08} [126.2/1339] at 12:30 and met Enrico there, who told us to not pass. After chatting a bit with him he told us to wait 20 minutes, until he left with the car and go for the ridge. So we entered after a while, went up the road and found water at -37.35773, -71.38068. From the satellite images variant A (photo) looked ok, but in real live seemed to be a bad idea. So we went for variant B, which took us 3 hours. Very steep, loose rocks, one part with climbing (difficulty 2). With the food for 7 days in the backpack not a joy 😂. While we were climbing up, we saw 3 cars passing the road. So be aware when you sneak in. Camped at laguna los Cóndores. Perfect Spot!
Day 2: walked to Camp {08} [107.6/1938]. The marked spot should be shifted up to 37.24611 -71.39138 the shoulder right before (NOBO). Met Adrian, Julian and Valentin there who camped SOBO and camped beside us. Had nice conversations. Adrian warned us about the aggressive cows next day.
Day 3: Went to Camp {08} [88.1/1514] and met Clara on the way. Cows close to Camp {08} [89.4/1449] showed an aggressive behaviour. Maybe it was the herd who were hunting the boys the day before. We had to do a 20 minutes detour up the valley to keep distance.
Day 4: Went to camping Los Peucos and enjoyed the hot water.
Day 5-7: walked to Puente Inglés without difficulties. Crossed Río Nuble with dry feet on horseback’s. 2 Arrieros (Guillermo and Renato) took us on the other side. Water was not deep either.
*'''10Fev2025 - 17fec2025 / hiking SOBO / RR - OH1+new - varE - G - H - I - J / 7.5 days (with one half day at termas) / Clara'''
Left the bus to Puente El Ingles here -36,67295, -71,29201 before los sauces (as Tomáš and Natalie said), easy road to the river and dry feet crossing.
Lots of workers there, I was luckey to get a ride to El Roble after few hot MR walking km.
Carabineros are nice, just want you to register and check out you have a good gps + satellite.
Fords :
- Rio ñuble: at 10am deep and flowing fast, I didn't feel it (1.57m, alone and i'm not used to fords). I knew it would probably be like this so I took OH1 and went back RR (thanks a lot Peggy and Dorota!!). Ford at the indicated place on OH1 is easy, water to knee flowing slow at noon.
-Rio diguillin : 47.4 was easy (fast flowing but around knee). 48.4 harder (water to crotch, flowing fast), I did it few meters upper to tracks (exactly here : -36,93565, -71,40355)
Navigation :
- to avoid ford of rio ñuble : OH1 is easy with 2 nice camp spots (-36,85676, -71,22440 and -36,86615, -71,21507) and lot of streams flowing. Trail in the other direction is mainly in good conditions but sometimes disappear + cow paths make you going in bushes and loosing time (so if it can helps, this is 4 positions that I marked with my gps when I went back on the good trail just after loosing myself :
S36.852906° O071.228763° /
S36.850995° O071.230381° /
S36.844944° O071.235431° /
S36.839085° O071.245746°)
Maybe (probably), there are other easy spots earlier to ford Rio ñuble and take the trail at the opposite side, especially when it gets close to the river, but I didn't explore it at all.
And back on the other side of Rio ñuble... 3h30 later !! But I was very happy with it as it worked and was very easy.
-I found not so much bamboo fight, maybe it have been cleared by all the people passing. I avoided one taking the good trail on the other side of the river around camp 29.5. 2 additional fords but very easy. (Cross river here S36.856564° O071.75578°, and then here S36.858440° O071.279470° to go back on RR)
- CC part on the ridge after km113 is more demanding in terms of navigation and terrain. Some cairns helping (but once leed me in wrong and exposed direction). I ended up on varH without noticing but it felt good as there was less wind than directly on the ridge and a good trail.
- I had still lot's of food so I took the ridge slow and went for the lakes (thank's to Sergio advise, and food!). Var G for laguna hermosa is easy CC, 20 min down. The lake is a beautiful ++ spot to camp (or lunch/swim), I found it way nicer than Laguna El Roble ! No water flowing upper to the lake at this time but water from the lake is perfectly clear and fresh.
Var I looked nicer than RR for this steep going down.
Then var J : good trails to go to laguna El Toro and to the viewpoint of laguna los condores. Not sure if you really can go down at this one and didn't look like there is place to camp.
Camp :
- Planned to camp at Camp 20.3 but the place was not nice and no water so went to next spot not marked here -36,81470, -71,25463. (Camp 21.6 is not good too, there is a fence and private property)
- -36,85684, -71,27580. A bit before camp 29.5.
- termas 40 : very nice spot. Incredible termas !!
- camping Los Peucos : nothing to add about termas and camping. Sergio is amazing and very generous. The day after he had to do some stuff with trashes and he proposed me to come with him by car. He took me to the viewpoint of salto del blanquillo on OH3 that was nice and then left me around beginig of VarE
- camp 87.1 : nice fresh water flowing just down to the spot.
- camp 102.3 : there is actually a thin water just down, sufficient to cook and drink. The spot has an amazing view. Flat spot perfect for tent exactly here -37,21391, -71,37187. Not totally wind protected so better watch before how it's gonna be for the night !
- laguna El Toro : is not as perfect as laguna hermosa (and water is not as fresh and clear, maybe better to take water from the little stream on the path going down to the lake) but it's still a nice place to camp. Frozed in the night.
Water : 27.5 is not really good (more muddy and stagnant water). Other markers are good.
No snow.
Right of way issues :
- at puesto 120 : 5 very agressive dogs running and barking on me when I arrived. As others, the guy told me it's a private property and doesn't let people go since this season (because of trashes and fires). He was not angry and had to let me pass in this way but precise me that he won't let anyone in the opposite. Need to find an alternative way if you really want to go NOBO here, and don't approch the puesto.
- cows around km88 where not aggressive with me but not friendly type neither.
I can advise camping parque Antuco. Nice and calm place with shade and swimming pool. Homemade empanadas. Camp10k with electricity and perfect hot showers. Bernabe the owner is really nice and know about the GPT. Had really good talks with him !
* '''2025-JAN-29 to 2025-Feb-2 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 1 / Elijah & Michael
Rio Nuble remains a challenging crossing with water coming waist high at 174 cm. Trail is overgrown with Bamboo Grass up to the second pass, however improves thereafter.
Both the undeveloped termas after the second pass, as well as Los Peucos are highly recommended. Camping & rustic cabanas available at Los Puecos; as noted, Sergio is warm, welcoming, and generous with his available supplies.
El Puesto {08} [120.6/1513] informed us that we were trespassing on private property and allowed us to pass on the stipulation that we never return.
Antuco Base Camp sells hot coffee, cookies, chocolate, and at lunch, pizza. Light traffic on road to Antuco (Sunday).
(Option 1: Michael split from RR to hike this option. Second marked puesto busy & welcoming. No water available after basin before ridge walk, until Laguna el Lobo. Good views, comparable to Traversia Polcura.)
'''2024-01-16 to 2014-01-26 / 1day+10days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH 1+new trail / Dorota+Peggy till los Puecos, after that Dorota'''
Very demanding stage because of Rio Nuble
1Day: I walked alone and have idea to cross the river Nuble at km 22.0 km (-36.82021, -71.25381) at first gate. Then followed river, and after puesto I found trail. My idea was destroyed for next river and also on the other side I did not see possibility to continúe. So I backtrack to camping El Ingles and joined Peggy.
Day2: We could not crossed safely Nuble. Night at km 21.6
Day3: We continued option 08-01. It was possiblity of storm so we went to puesto (08-01)[8.0/1136]. We spent here night and learned how to made sopapillas and bread. Patricia y Juan gave us a lot of food. Juan explain us that exist path on other side of river (reffering to option1) which leads to termas.
Day4: We risked to follow his innstruction and we reached the track RR. So if you would like to do this option: take variant 01, cross the river Nuble at about km 6.5 (-36.86712,-71.21317). And then not followed option 1. Instead turn right and followed path on the other side. You need to make some adicional kilometers, but it was worth of it.
Day5: we reached termas. There was nice spot with two places for tent.(-36.90435, -71.35763)
Day6: volcano Chillan using variant Natalie-Tomas. Till 2500 m nice visible path. Then sometimies. There were snowfields, only one with spikes. We met pair from Germany.
Day7: We spend a lot of time for find good place for passing river Daulagin. We have crossed 100 m down stream. I have 1.64 cm, peggy 1.60 cm. Cuarrent very strong, water to hips. I reached camping los Puecos.
Day7: Rest day at Puecos. Night at "quincho" house with place for fire. Price 15.000 clp. Ranger Sergio gave us a lot of food, breakfast and dinner. Also gas and food. He didnot like money adicional. Hot springs excepcional.
Day9: I followed trail alone. Between 82.9 and 84.2 a lot tress and sometimes trail is not visible. Night at km 88.4.
Day 10: views from the ridge were amazing. Between km 110.2 and 113.1 the trail very often is not visible. I camped at km 111. Water from snow.
Day11: There were not water till km 117. Meeting with Rodrigo at his puesto were not so bad. At the beginnig I started to apologize that I am on his territory. Night at camping Antuco in luxury cabana for 4 personas. Price 30000 clp. Owner in the evening took me to Abanico to restaurant and buying some food. Very nice place.
'''2025-Jan-20 to 2025-Jan-27 / 7 days + 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR from thermas de Chillán, Option 08-D + volcano Chillán / Chris & Julia
There is an ATM (Fee: 5500)at the town square southend of town which even gives some smaller notes.
Bus to Los Angeles
*Camping Parque Antuco :
10k for camping. Cabañas also. Nice calm place, swimming pool, shade. Electricity and hot showers. Homemade empanadas. Bernabe the owner is really kind and know about the GPT. His number +56 9 9507 2559.
*Puente Ingles
Great Venezuelan restaurant Canela Passion.
Bus to San Carlos
*San Fabian - Fev 2025 (Clara) :
- Very good resupply possible in the supermarket Los Alvis.
- Accomodation : cabaña nativa : very nice cabanas clean, big confortable bed, climatisation, kitchen, pools, jacuzzi. 35k for a 2 persons cabaña (for 1 person). Just in front when you go out, there is a place where you can buy very good tortillas de rescoldo and pan amasado. Lots of restaurants.
==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==
* 20222025 -Feb-502 : there are direct buses from Chillan to San Fabian. Then San Fabian to Puente Ingles Bus . Buses at 2 pm and 6 p.m. in front of the carabineros including Sundays and Holidays.
*Puente Ingles to San Fabián
=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=
* At the puesto (120,6/1513), the owner does not want us to pass through his land (as of 02/02/2025). He clearly stated that it is private property. It might now be preferable to take a detour through BB, passing well to the right beforehand and rejoining the path well after his house (which was under construction with many tents around it at that time)? (Peggy)
=Links to other Resources=