Cambios

TL;DR: If you like people suffering, skip to day 7–9 days 7–9. 

Summary: This is a new and quite , scenic and varied mostly-not-on-road routemade for packrafters but can be done by hikers as well. In our opinion, it is a superior alternative As compared to a lot of roadwalking on the RR Chilean side (GPT14-/15 and a possible candidate for extending RP (including a river flowing through Aracaurias), which are to be found along all it has very minimal road walking and we highly recommend it if you don’t mind missing Sollipulli. It begins near the trail)Argentinian border near Icalma and Villa Pehuenia. The last bushbashing It then utilizes the Huella Andina (BBHA) part, while offering an experience for most parts and ends in the Lanin national Park near the Pucon border, via crossing a pristine mighty dense 5km bushwhack and untouched forest, sailing across Lago Tromen. The end is extremely demanding the crux, it took us 3days to cover 5km, and although we do not exactly safe deem it “safe” due to its remoteness and bone breaking/puncture hazards. The forest was an experience for us like the susceptibility to injury with no other so far after six months way of rescue, it is worth the battle. For hikers there is a lot of terrain worth exploring on the GPT in totalsouth side of Lago Quillen that would connect you back to the main road, and or end at Lago Quillen. The 5km BB took us 3 days. HoweverWe are really happy this worked out because it then connects flawlessly to our Lanin traverse created in 2023/2024, before that final section, this route is suitable if you can manage food. Please don’t let the bushwhack throw you off, for hikers as it follows the Huella Andina ("HA")most part the going was easy. Had this not been our first section of the year, loaded with some modifications (and using a packraft)and food for ten days it could have been done much faster. And the bushwhack should only take 2 days, not 3. I will refer to the KMZ file downloadable from wikiexplora article about HA. This At this time of the year, we practically never carried water, it was everywhere. It , it would likely be probably different at the end of summer. We never met any park rangers, so we do not know if any permits or payments are needed. In Villa Pehuenia, we were told by the tourist information office that HA is only open from Lago Ñorquinco, and indeed it is only marked from there, but the two previous sections exist as trails or roads and to our knowledge are open for hikingdid not present with any obstacles. Probably It is probable they are just not maintained as they are not in any National Park. Outside of the lakes, While hiking we only met no other overnight hikers and only one daypacker and one group of MTBikers.  Day 0 - Crossing from Icalma to Villa Pehuenia - 4 kmIn Icalma, we asked a local working in a garden whether there was a taxi in Icalma and he offered to drive us to the border for 5 thousand CLP, which we accepted. It was a big help since the border was closing at ~7pm (it may have been 6pm but we only had an hour or so for both crossings). At the border, we were informed that Argentina requires a boat certificate of desinfection by a Chilian officer, but the Argentinians did not ask for it (for details, see this discussion: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1956717948167415/). We didn't get a hitch between the border controls, but soon after in Argentina the first car took us to Villa Pehuenia. Villa Pehuenia is a tourist town, with no exchange office but seemingly every shop was willing to change US dollars for Argentinian pesos, ask around to get a decent rate. Shops were open until 21. Ressuply is well possible, this being Argentina, but food is now probably cheaper (though of course worse) in Chile (the Argentinian border controls did not check our bags stuffed with food at all). There is a dedicated shop for vegetables and fruits here: -38.88139, -71.18762. Paid 10 thousand to sleep at a run-down but functional ‎Complejo Lagrimitas. Phone Claro internet decent. Day 1 - Villa Pehuenia to Moquehue ‐ 15 kmOur first independent packrafting trip meant that we fiddled several hours with packing and loading the boat, so we started at 11 AM. Lake was calm and we reached a beach here: -38.91476, -71.27327 around 14:00. The "puesto" marked in OSM sounds more like a settler, dogs and chickens heard. While we ate, whitecap waves against our direction developed and when paddling, we more or less stood on the ground, so we opted for hiking the rest of the way. The trail to Moquehue is easy but scenic, so we did not regret it. It is a trail, not a road, OSM has it wrong (will be fixed in the summer) until the last 1 km or so. In Moquehue, we managed to buy bread and nuts, ressuply possible, but we had most of our food already. Claro internet (last before end of trip). We followed HA for one km and slept a few hundred metres beyond the town here: -38.95579, -71.32329 (no water).  Day 2 - Moquehue to ridge above the next valley - 13 km.We followed HA until just before Filo Cerro Plomo. Appart from first 2 km, it is a 4x4 road (sad) through a beautiful forrest (happy). Sidetrip to viewpoint here -38.96209, -71.32286 worth the ten minutes it takes. The ridge above the HA that should be accessible through OSM path starting here -38.95090, -71.31670 (mapped based on Strava, so might be CC) looked like easy and beautiful walking and is probably preferrable in good weather. Paths around -38.97080, -71.32003 are also mapped based on Strava, might be an artifact of a race or one single mad person doing the same round over and over and might be more CC than trails, but should get you to the ridge too. Anyway, on HA, the trackfiles are a bit wrong, around -39.00634, -71.30802, you will see two trail marks, so leave the road and go up. Met some people with bikes here, only people we met for the next two days. Path is not visible, but forrest is open and you go basically straight up. When reaching low lying beech shrubbery, path reappers that leads you up to the saddle. There is a creek shortly after this turn off (just before the trail marks) you can fill up on water. There is also a cairn at this creek and if you wish to walk the creek bed I think it might be possible as well. From the saddle we opted to follow the ridge NE from HA. It is spectacular and while steep, no hands are needed to advance. It is a bit slowgoing though, especially with a packraft and 10 days of food. We slept near a seasonal lake around -39.03013, -71.28361, very beautiful.

Day 3 0 - Ridge above the next valley Crossing from Icalma to Lago Ñorquinco Villa Pehuenia - 15 4 km.We followed the ridge for two km In Icalma, we asked a local working in a garden whether there was a taxi in Icalma and then discovered a recently maintained trail down he offered to drive us to the valley here: -39.05003border for 5 thousand CLP, -71which we accepted.28180. We took It was a big help since the border was closing at ~7pm (itmay have been 6pm but we only had an hour or so for BOTH crossings). It took us down through beech shrubbery to here -39.05142At the border, -71.28621. Then it kind we were informed that Argentina requires a boat certificate of petered out disinfection by a Chilian officer, but the forest was open enough Argentinians did not ask for us to easily reach it (for details, see this discussion: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1956717948167415/). We didn't get a hitch between the HA border controls, but soon after in Argentina the valleyfirst car took us to Villa Pehuenia. The HA Villa Pehuenia is quite a wide path that must have been made tourist town, with a digger some time back, no exchange office but it is not used by cars up seemingly every shop was willing to -39.08562change US dollars for Argentinian pesos, -71.30652. We originally wanted ask around to stay on the ridge longer and go down from here: -39get a decent rate.08760, -71.29079Shops were open until 21. That Resupply is open terrain and looking from below, it looked well possible, but not wholly certain. However, we would advise to join the ridge straight from Moquehue as suggested previously and get down by this trail we discovered. We followed being Argentina the HA to Ruta Provincial 11food is great, but it might be advisable to cut to depending on the NW corner of inflation food is much cheaper in Chile (the lake from here: -39.11217, -71.30914 to avoid roadwalking and a detour: Arroyo Nompehuen must be forded anyway and while cold, does Argentinian border controls did not have too much water (knee deepcheck our bags stuffed with food at all) and there seems to be . There is a path on satellite in the suitable direction dedicated shop for vegetables and the landscape is reasonably open. We put our packraft in fruits here : -3938.1205688139, -71.3190918762. It is a campsite where noone was in attendance, otherwise day-access is about 4 Paid 10 thousand pesos per person, so you might want to reach the lake farther, should be possible, use OSM and satellite map. There are showers and toilets and trashbin though. It was sleep at a bit windy (from West) and rain was coming, so despite the small size of the lake and low fetch, whitecap waves developed. Their direction was suitable for us and we crossed the lake along the southern shore to find a very wind sheltered camp next to a creek behind a bush here: run-39.12056, -71down but functional ‎Complejo Lagrimitas.31909Phone Claro internet decent. 

Day 4 - Lago Ñorquinco 1 - Villa Pehuenia to Arroyo Calfiquiera - 19 Moquehue ‐ 15 km.The next day Our first independent packrafting trip meant that we padled to fiddled several hours with packing and loading the boat, so we started at 11 AM. Lake was calm and we reached a beach here: -3938.1442091476, -71.29466 and joined HA from there. According to OSM, the lake can be hiked 27327 around from both directions14:00. West side seems preferable. HA starts to be The "puesto" marked here. It is actually mostly in OSM sounds more like a very old eroded road made with a digger probably decades backsettler, dogs and chickens heard. It has overwhelmingly the characteristics of a trail. Cascada Coloco is very pretty. Once you reach the passWhile we ate, where there is a puesto whitecap waves developed and cowswhen we got back to paddling, we more or less stayed in the same spot, so we opted for hiking the rest of the way. The trail turns into a road that to Moquehue is very rarely usedeasy but scenic, so we did not regret it seemed. Vivac Pampa de Castro would probably give you shelter in rain and It is open enough for hanta virus a trail, not to be a worry. We reached Arroyo Calfiquiera here: -39.22814road, -71.27044 (before that OSM has it is a wild streamwrong (will be fixed in the summer)until the last 1 km or so. HoweverIn Moquehue, the creek is overgrown just after that, luckily there were two locals living there who were fishing and helped us carry our fully loaded packraft we managed to -39.22933, -71.26945. There was one more narrow buy bread and almost overgrown section shortly after (-39.23189nuts, -71.26735)resupply possible, so you might want to put in just after that (follow the 4x4 tracks visible on satellite)but we had most of our food already. From then on, apart from two low lying bridges, no portages were needed Claro internet (we shortly walked our boat once or twice through some narrow braided passageslast before end of trip). We camped at followed HA for one km and slept a few hundred metres beyond the town here: -3938.2385795579, -71.25184 just before a class 1 rapid 32329 (that turned out to be the biggest on the riverno water). Tomáš left his scissors from his Victorinox card there, you might find them at the edge of grass. 

Day 5 2 - Arroyo Calfiquiera Moquehue to Vivac Malalco Chico ridge above the next valley - 18 13 km. In the morningWe followed HA until just before Filo Cerro Plomo. Appart from first 2 km, the rapid turned out to be dangerous only for one's kneesit is a 4x4 road (sad) through a beautiful forest (happy). The bridges are Sidetrip to viewpoint here: -3938.2445396209, -71.24944 and 32286 worth the ten minutes it takes. There is a ridge above the HA that should be accessible through OSM path starting here -3938.2487495090, -71.2163431670 (mapped based on Strava, so might be CC). There is a creek with fresh water flowing It would be an alternative option but looked easy and beautiful, probably preferable in at good weather. There are also alternative paths around -3938.24601 97080, -71. 2184232003 which are mapped based on Strava. With all Could be an artifact of a race or one single mad person doing the packing same round over and unpackingover, but it is for sure quicker should get you to walk the ridge as well.Anyway, on HA (which leaves , the road for trackfiles are a trail in the valley bit wrong for at least a part of its length)an important turn off -39. However00634, packrafting is recommended as part of -71.30802. At that point you will see two trails, leave the arroyo flows through an aracauria forrest road and all along you get nice views of surrounding mountainsgo up. It is also good practice for beginnersWe met some bikers here, only people we thought, being beginners ourselvesmet for the next two days. Down at the lakePath up is not visible, we ferried across an American who said she would climb a mountain north of but the lake nearby using a trail disclosed by a localforest is open and you go basically straight up. We did not packraft across When you reach low lying beech shrubbery, the lake path reapers and instead got out at takes you to the picnic area saddle. Down below, at the west end of the lake (small stream but walk up a bit bcs turn off, there is an outhouse in a creek if you follow the stream) and then after lunch made main road for a shortcut little bit, you may want to the ridgefill up on water. After about 500 metres along From the lake on the road, saddle we turned right uphill and soon found a trail used by horses recently here: -39.25142, -71.19640. It was easy opted to follow and joined the ridge NE from HA here -39.25310It is spectacular and while steep, -71.18395. It would be great if somebody could investigate where in the valley (presumably further up) it originates. There no hands are a few puestos high up on this side so more trails are expectedneeded to advance. The HA itself then crosses With a very attractive (old volcanic) plateau. It is probably (one packraft and 10 days of) the nicest part of the HA that we have seen so far (out of a half)food it was slow. We camped at slept near a valley designated by the KMZ files as a bivauc and it is a good camping spotseasonal lake around -39.03013, but do not expect any facilities or people-71.28361, very beautiful.

Natalie devised an idea where you would CC from Day 3 - Ridge above the next valley to Lago Ñorquinco - 15 km. We followed the ridge for 2km and then discovered a recently maintained trail down to the valley here: -39.2568705003, -71.23304 onto 28180. We took it. It took us down through beech shrubbery to here -39.05142, -71.28621. Then it kind of petered out but the ridgeforest was open enough for us to easily reach the HA in the valley. The HA is quite a wide path that must have been made with a digger some time back, traverse Cerro Rucachoroi but it is not used by cars up to -39.08562, -71.30652. We originally wanted to stay on the ridge longer and join HA go down from here: -39.3109008760, -71.20943. It all looked like well passable CC29079, but we never got a good view of were very much unsure it would work, so considering the peak itself wind and are unsure if grey weather we were in, this new found trail down was a blessing. We followed the HA to Ruta Provincial 11, but it can might be sidehilled or crossed. Some advisable to cut to the NW corner of the sublake from here: -peaks obstructing 39.11217, -71.30914 to avoid roadwalking and a detour. There seems to be a path on satellite in the view were rather verticalsuitable direction and the landscape is reasonably open. Arroyo Nompehuen must be forded anyway (knee deep on main road). We put our packraft in here -39.12056, but ridges that -71.31909. It is a campsite where noone was in attendance, otherwise day-access is about 4 thousand pesos per person, so you might want to reach the lake farther. There are showers and toilets and a trashbin at this camp though. It was a bit windy (from West) and rain was coming, so despite the small size of the lake and low fetch, whitecap waves developed. Their direction was suitable for us and we saw were passablecrossed the lake along the southern shore to find a very wind sheltered camp next to a creek behind a bush here: -39.12056, -71.31909. 

Day 6 4 - Vivac Malalco Chico to Lago Quillèn  Lago Ñorquinco - 21 to Arroyo Calfiquiera - 19 km.Going down is straightforwardThe next day we paddled to -39. However14420, -71.29466 and joined HA from there are some fallen branches. About 200 metres According to OSM, the lake can be hiked around from both directions. West side seems preferable. HA starts to be marked here. It is actually mostly a very old eroded road made with a digger probably decades back. It has overwhelmingly the characteristics of altitude above a trail. Cascada Coloco is very pretty. Once you reach the valleypass, you hit where there is a creek puesto and cows, the trail turns into a road that is very rarely used, it seemed. Vivac Pampa de Castro would probably give you will cross several times downstreamshelter in rain and is open enough for hanta virus not to be a worry. After crossing We reached Arroyo Malalco (Calfiquiera which looks great for packrafting, but do your research), a local from Comunidad Laf Lefiman offered us a cabaña with Starlink internet for 60 thousand,but it was too early so we went onplanned to paddle here: -39. When we reached the lake22814, we saw a family with a paddleboard and kayaks -71.27044 (before that we saw the previous day at Lago Rucachoroiit is a wild stream). Park rangers The creek is overgrown just after that, luckily there were nowhere two locals living there who were fishing and helped us carry our fully loaded packraft to be seen-39. It 22933, -71.26945. After that there was quite windy one more narrow and waves looked bigalmost overgrown section (-39.23189, -71.26735), so we used our packraft you might want to cross put in just after that (follow the outlet 4x4 tracks visible on satellite). From then on, apart from the lake and two low lying bridges, no portages were needed (we shortly walked along the beach to join MR that runs along the southern side of the lake until our boat once or twice through some narrow braided passages). We camped at -39.4308823857, -71.2848, where we camped. We met 25184 just before a group of people fishing there but they soon class 1 rapid (that turned out to be the biggest on the river). Tomáš lefthis scissors from his Victorinox card there, you might find them at the edge of grass. 

Day 7 5 - Lago Quillèn Arroyo Calfiquiera to Somewhere in bamboo  Vivac Malalco Chico - 13 18 km.We started early (aiming for sunrise In the morning, we managed the rapid turned out to be in the boat 45 minutes after it) and paddled on lake Quillèn to reach old buildings dangerous only for one's knees. The bridges are here: -39.4279624453, -71.4247424944 and -39. They were 24874, -71.21634. There is a creek with fresh water flowing in at -39.24601 -71. 21842. With all the packing and unpacking, it is for sure quicker to walk on HA (probably recentishlywhich leaves the road for a trail in the valley for at least a part of its length) abandoned border police station. However, packrafting is recommended as far as part of the arroyo flows through an Aracauria forest and all along you get nice views of surrounding mountains. It is also good practice for beginners, we could tellthought, being beginners ourselves. The Down at the lake had some waves already in , we ferried across an American who said she would climb a mountain north of the morning but they were quite managable lake nearby using a trail disclosed by a local. We did not packraft across the lake and it took us about 4 hours to paddle instead got out at the 13 km or so. Along picnic area at the way, west end of the lake (small stream for drinking but walk up a bit bcs there would be places is an outhouse near the stream). After lunch made a shortcut to camp, especially the ridge. After about 500 metres along the lake on the beach road, we turned right uphill and soon found a trail used by horses recently here: -39.4216425142, -71.36282 where there is fresh water19640. After the police station, we got onto a beach It was easy to follow and joined HA here: -39.4359325310, -71.4150818395. It would be great if somebody could investigate where in the valley (presumably further up) it originates. There are a few puestos high up on this side so more trails are expected. The HA itself then crosses a very attractive (old volcanic) plateau. It is probably (one of) the nicest part of the HA that we have seen so far (out of a half)(Nat still thinks near Ache Niyeu was the best HA section). We cleared camped at a place for valley designated by the KMZ files as a tent bivauc and entry into the forest, did not check for water but satellite says there it is a creek outlet about 50 m NW good camping spot, but do not expect any facilities or people.Natalie devised an idea where you would CC from therehere: -39. Then 25687, -71.23304 onto the "fun" part startedridge, at about 15traverse Cerro Rucachoroi and join HA here:00-39. Natalie's many many warnings about the forest looking impenetrable turned out to be true31090, -71.20943. It is an ancient Chilean beech (Roble/Coigue) forest with all looked like well passable CC, but we never got a completely native understory good view of many shrubs but mainly just walls of bamboo. In the grand scheme peak itself and are unsure if it can be sidehilled or crossed. Some of thingsthe sub-peaks obstructing the view were rather vertical, if but ridges that we had stuck to the creek bed we would have made the crossing in two (long) dayssaw were passable. But because we left the creekbed several times, this 5km crossing took us 3 daysUp for an exploration.

At the beginningDay 6 - Vivac Malalco Chico to Lago Quillèn - 21 km. Going down is straightforward. However, while we were not yet on a steep slope, we were moving at a healthy speed there are some fighting of maybe 400m an hourfallen branches. We found About 200 metres of altitude above the valley, you hit a creek here: -39that you will cross several times downstream.43977After crossing Arroyo Malalco (which looks great for packrafting, -71.41793 that allowed but do your research), a local from Comunidad Laf Lefiman offered us to walk without obstruction a cabaña with Starlink internet for about 15m. It 60 thousand,but it was turning into a canyon, which we did not like, too early so we continued to the east of itwent on. Little did When we know how foolish that was! In reached the beginning, as it got steeperlake, we would sometimes find an area full of flat dead woody bambo saw a family with a paddleboard and kayaks that would allow us to jump about twenty metres before fighting we saw the green bamboo againprevious day at Lago Rucachoroi. As we progressed (at a speed of maybe 250m per hour)Park rangers were nowhere to be seen. It was quite windy and waves looked big, so we noticed we were on a side of a steep canyon made by erosion used our packraft to cross the outlet from water running down the slope. Details of lake and walked along the satellite map revealed beach to join MR that we were two such ravines removed from runs along the main creek. We crossed one over a log, that was maybe 10 m long and was maybe 6 m high above the lowest point southern side of the canyonlake until -39. It was getting dark so we cleared a somewhat even spot for a camp (sorry forest)43088, -71. After six hours and some zigzagging caused by the canyons2848, we were about 1 km from where we startedcamped. Survey without We met a backpack (which makes moving around about three times easier) suggested we might be able to rejoin the main canyon the next day which was about 100 m far (and thirty metres below)group of people fishing there but they soon left. 

Day 8 7 - Lago Quillèn to Somewhere in bamboo to dried creekbed - 1 13 km.New survey We started early (aiming for sunrise) and paddled on lake Quillèn to reach old buildings here: -39.42796, -71.42474. They were a (probably recentishly) abandoned border police station, as far as we could tell. The lake had some waves already in the morning made but they were quite manageable and it took us go backdown as about 4 hours to paddle the main canyon's wall seemed like a landslide and almost vertical13 km or so. We started to follow down a ravine between us and Along the main creekway, hoping it there would join itbe places to camp, especially on the beach here: -39. After three hours42164, 400 m of distance and two failed surveys in -71.36282 where there is fresh water. After the direction of the main canyonpolice station, we finally manged to make got onto a crossing. A rule for heavy duty bushbashing seems to bebeach here: always follow the water-39. It is not exactly quicker43593, but psychologically being able to see more than 5 metres in advance -71.41508. We cleared a place for a tent and entry into the forest, we did not having to constantly put branches check for water but satellite says there is a creek outlet about 50 m NW from onethere. Then the "fun" part started, at about 15:00. Natalie's face is a tremendeous benefitmany many warnings about the forest looking impenetrable turned out to be true. It also helps is an ancient Chilean beech (Roble/Coigue) forest with orientation and hopefully provides a possible passagecompletely native understory of many shrubs but mainly just walls of bamboo. We In the grand scheme of course set a turn-back time by which we would turn back things, if we did not reach had stuck to the pass, but (Tomáš not being creek bed we would have made the responsible onecrossing in two (long), days. But because we failed to heed it after deciding we actually still had food for three more somewhat fasting left the creekbed several times, this 5km crossing took us 3 days. We started to go up At the creek beginning, while we were not yet on a steep slope, we were moving at a healthy speed of about 200 metres maybe 400m an hour, so after about 5-6 hours, we managed to get under the place where we slept. We agreed that we could have probably gone down there, saving us 5 hours of found a detour, the canyon walls being steep, but in some places having enough bamboo to provide good (but never truly certain) holds. At about creek here: -39.4477943977, -71.41624, there 41793 that allowed us to walk without obstruction for about 15m. It was turning into a confluence of two canyonscanyon, and which we decided to go through a steep dry vegetation-wise more or less open slope to the right . After about 100mdid not like, so we traversed back left continued to the main creekeast of it. It Little did we know how foolish that was now six in the evening. Still hoping to reach the pass (hey, just 500m of distance!) and facing somewhat overgrown waterfall in In the main ravine roughly -39.45067beginning, -71.41624as it got steeper, we would sometimes find an area full of flat dead woody bambo that would allow us to jump about twenty metres before fighting the green bamboo again opted to go right, onto an even steeper slope. Somehow with the help of trees growing there, As we reached progressed (at a beech-bush combined with bamboo understory, slowing us down to speed of maybe 50 m an 250m per hour. After an hour or so), we found noticed we were on a ravine side of a steep canyon made by erosion from water running down the slope. Details of the satellite map revealed that we partially followed and traversed back to were two such ravines removed from the main creek. It still had some waterfalls We crossed one over a log, that turned out to be scalable was maybe 10 m long and after 100 was maybe 6 m (our speed returning to a solid 250 m per hour), it turned dryhigh above the lowest point of the canyon. It now being 9 PM, was getting dark so we built cleared a somewhat even spot for a camp inside of the creekbed(sorry forest). Looking back, especially After six hours and some zigzagging caused by the second diversion was canyons, we were about 1 km from where we started. Survey without a mistake and backpack suggested we should have stayed in might be able to rejoin the main canyon (the waterfall next day which was probably scalable with passing backpacks about 100 m far (and suchthirty metres below). The variety of plant and insect species that live in and around the creekbed was amazing. Luckily very little tabanos or other obnoxious insects, which was true for all these 5 km. 

Day 9 8 - Dried creekbed to somewhere Somewhere in bamboo II to dried creekbed - 3 1 km.In New survey in the morningmade us go backdown as the main canyon's wall seemed like a landslide and almost vertical. We started to follow down a ravine between us and the main creek, Tomáš went exploring hoping it would join it. After three hours, 400 m of distance and found two failed surveys in the other side direction of the pass much preferable, so around tenmain canyon, we set off finally managed to continuemake a crossing. After an easy 40-minute 300m traverse A rule for heavy duty bushbashing seems to be: always follow the pass water (Lanin looks impressive even through Nat doesn’t agree because she says that’s how many accidents happen on the trees), Pacific Northwest. But in this forest the character of the valley changed water is a lotbetter option). Almost open beech forrest The water way is not exactly quicker, but psychologically being able to see more than 5 metres in advance and relatively regular creekbed (not having to constantly fight branches from one's face is a tremendous benefit. It also helps with orientation and hopefully provides a creekpossible passage. We of course set a turn-back time by which we would turn back if we did not reach the pass. However, I (Tomáš) enabled am not the most responsible at times and convinced us both that we forgo the turn around time because we still had food for three more somewhat fasting days. So onwards we went.We started to reach go up the creek at a speed of about 200 metres an hour, so after about 5-6 hours, we managed to get under the place where we slept... We agreed that we could have probably gone down there, saving us 5 hours of a detour, the canyon walls being steep, but in some places having enough bamboo to provide good (but never truly certain) holds. At about -39.4596444779, -71.41716 in 41624, there was a superb speed confluence of almost 600m/hour. From theretwo canyons, and we followed the river decided to go through a dense old rather open, steep and amazing canopyslope to the right . At After about 400 m/ hour100m, we eventually got traversed back left to a 20 m cascading the main creek. It was now six in the evening. Still hoping to reach the pass (not verticalhey, just 500m of distance!) and facing somewhat overgrown waterfall here: in the main ravine roughly -39.4708845067, -71.4177541624. To its left, we managed We again opted to cut go right but this time it was more of a path scramble due to steepness. Above this scramble we reached a beech-bush combined with our machetebamboo understory, passing each other our backpacks on the not-entirely vertical somewhat crumbly climb-slowing us downto maybe 50 m an hour (Bamboo intertwined with concrete like twister sticks is the worst combination). Unfortunately After an hour or so, we do not think our holds will last long as found a ravine that we scaled it down in mainly mud partially followed and fragile rock (rope or bamboo bushing walkaround should do)traversed back to the main creek. Afterwards, It still had some waterfalls that turned out to be scalable and after 100 m (our speed again decreased returning to about 200 a solid 250 m an per hour), overcoming many logjams and much smaller waterfallsit turned dry. We camped around -39.47449It now being 9 PM, -71.41901we built a camp inside of the creekbed. Natalie somehow left her insoles there. All Looking back, especially the scrambling second diversion was a mistake and we should have done both up and down were mangeable stayed in the canyon (T4 to T5 on SAC scalethe waterfall was probably scalable with passing backpacks and such), though a rope . The variety of 10 plant and insect species that live in and around the creekbed was amazing. Luckily very little tabanos or 15 m or so would have been at certian moments quite usefulother obnoxious insects, which was true for all these 5 km. 

Day 10 9 - Somewhere Dried creekbed to somewhere in bamboo II to Paso Mamuil Mamal - 17 3 km.In the morning, we took three hours mostly following Tomáš went exploring and found the creek or bashing bamboo alongisde it other side of the pass much preferable, so around ten, we set off to continue. After an easy 40-minute 300m traverse to reach the shore (yay!)pass, where Tomáš somehow left his beloved trusty headphonesthe character of the valley changed a lot and walking became easier, a nice Christmas present: ).The almost open beech forest and a relatively regular creekbed (with water) enabled us to reach -39.4827645964, -71.4254441716 in a superb speed of almost 600m/hour. Should you find themFrom there, give them we followed the river through a decent burial. We inflated our packraft dense old and paddled across Lago Tromen (which offers tremendeous views) in amazing canopy. At about 2400 m/ hour,5 hours we eventually got to outlet of Rio Malleoa 20 m cascading (not vertical) waterfall here: -39.47088, meeting people again after several days-71. Rio Malleo has probably too much of a drop to be packrafted safely but lookes tempting to Tomáš41775. After To its left, we managed to cut a long lunchpath with our machete, eating passing each other our backpacks on the last of not-entirely vertical somewhat crumbly climb-down. Unfortunately we do not think our holds will last food, long as we crossed the river scaled it down in mainly mud and walked along the OSM trail to the National Park office near the borderfragile rock (rope or bamboo bashing walkaround should do). Nobody paid attention to us thereAfterwards, so we walked our speed again decreased to the Argentinian border controlabout 200 m an hour, from which we got a hitch all the way to Pucon, seeing Clara hitchhiking overcoming many logjams and much smaller waterfalls. We camped around the end of the Villarica Traverse-39. Pucon did not 47449, -71.41901. Natalie somehow left her insoles there. All the scrambling we have Tomáš's favourite icecream like last year done both up and in general did not feel as good as previous years (cherries down were perfect thoughmanageable (T4 to T5 on SAC scale), though a rope of 10 or 15 m or so would have been at certain moments quite useful. We were very glad used our leashes, straps and maybe somehow euphoric we made it carabineers for lowering our backpacks. 

Day 10 - Somewhere in bamboo II to Paso Mamuil Mamal - 17 km.In the morning, we took three hours mostly following the creek or bashing bamboo alongside it to reach the shore (yay!), where Tomáš somehow left his beloved trusty headphones: -39.48276, -71.42544. Should you find them, give them a decent burial. We inflated our packraft and paddled across Lago Tromen (which offers tremendous views) in about 2,5 hours to outlet of Rio Malleo, meeting people again after several days. Rio Malleo has probably too much of a drop to be packrafted safely but looks tempting to Tomáš. After a long lunch, eating the last meal we had, we crossed the river and walked along the OSM trail to the National Park office near the border. Nobody paid attention to us there, so we walked to the Argentinian border control, from which we got a hitch all the way to Pucon, seeing Clara hitchhiking around the end of the Villarica Traverse. Pucon did not have Tomáš's favourite icecream like last year and in general did not feel as good as previous years (cherries were perfect though). We were very glad and maybe somehow euphoric we made it . Overall, the forest was incredible. However, if we broke a limb or worse, we doubt help would come, so only do this if you are prepared for self-evacuation or face the consequences. We are however convinced that with good navigation, and staying mainly in the creek, it could take two long days to do the BB traverse, one for going up the pass and one down. The BB has difficulty 7 in GPT terms.If one chooses to go NOBO it might suck extra with the extra weight…