26
ediciones
Cambios
→Season 2025/26
==Season 2025/26==
* ''' GPT14 | 2026-01-25 to 2026-01-28 I 3 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Variant C - RR - Variant E + H + G + F - Option 1 (Cumbre Sollipulli) - RR | Michaela '''
Day 1
I started late in the morning from Icalma. The trail marked as “overgrown” was actually fine. The path was always visible, just a bit bushy in some parts.
I took Variant C and arrived early afternoon at the Lake, Camp {14-C} [0.9/1535]. I think the lake is called Laguna Olga (?). I decided to camp there. The place is very beautiful and perfect for swimming. The water was surprisingly warm.
Day 2
The morning mood at the lagoon was magical. The warm water made the lake steam.
There are several gates on the way, most of them were open. One gate was locked here: -38.889264, -71.450457. I could crawl under the fence about 200 m to the left.
The bridge at Estero Huechelepun is broken. There was also a pickup truck down in the ditch. Location: -38.899539, -71.470488. I climbed down on the right side, pushed through the bushes, and climbed up again on the other side further down.
My plan was to have an easy day and sleep at Camping Carilafquen. I arrived around 13:30. I opened the gate and knocked at the house, but nobody was there. I had lunch at the picnic tables and waited, but no one showed up.
So I left and continued via Variant F, skipping the CONAF checkpoint.
I walked to Lodge Nevados de Sollipulli. They have a café and a hostel. A shared room costs 30,000. I had a drink and used the WiFi.
I decided to camp nearby here: -38.923355, -71.489118. Flat and hidden from the road. Water is about 200 m away: -38.924705, -71.489552.
Day 3
From my camp I followed an OSM trail to climb Sollipulli from the north to avoid CONAF. After some time, the trail joined the normal route (Option 1).
The hike to the summit was easy. I met only two other groups. The views were amazing.
I descended on the east side, nice cross-country hiking. No cars on the small road, so no hitchhiking.
I camped next to the river here: -39.03728, -71.469809.
Day 4
After about 4 km of walking, I reached Section 15, Option 1.
Attractiveness: 5/5, Difficulty: 3/5
''' GPT14/2025-12-27 to 2025-12-28/ 2 days/ SOBO/RR/Denis and Robert '''
Good resupply option in Icalma. During weekend it was a bit busy till kilometer 6. The trail section at 8,9 km is heavily overgrown all the way, trail is mostly visible, but not always. It slowed us down, but is durable. On the trail there are many closed gates we had to jumped over. Camp close to Cascada Chufquen was closed due to private event so we slept a bit above Parking on the trail to Sollipulli.
We didn’t need to buy anything so went straight for section 15.
Attractiveness 2/5
Difficulty 2/5
*'''2025-08-25: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''
- Option 1 (Cumbre Sollipulli): The ascent to the summit of Volcano Sollipulli is the highlight of this section. With good weather this opportunity should not be skipped. The most established route to the summit is the northern ascent that starts at the Conaf park ranger station.
To avoid returning on the same route and to minimize road walking, the track files suggest a descent from the summit on the eastern slope of the vulcano. This route has been recorded several times but is somewhat more demanding then the northern ascent.
Natalie, Tomas and Celio have investigated a much more demanding route along the eastern rim of Volcano Sollipulli that connects to the southern descent. This route includes some scrambling and should only be attempted in good stable weather by experienced hikers that feel comfortable in steep exposed terrain with small bits of climbing.
==Season 2024/25==
* ''' 2025-Feb-05 to 2025-Feb-10 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, 14-01 (Sollipulli Summit), 14-C / Farah & Jan '''
Combined GPT14 and 15 and took 6,5 hiking days in total including the Sollipulli Summit ascent.
Highlights: Araucaria forests, Piñones
Challenges: Overgrown trails
Started in the afternoon at Laguna Chica de Icalma and camped at a small laguna some hundred meters off the RR at (S 38°52.007' W 71°22.804'). The section indicated in the manual as potentially overgrown, was indeed overgrown. Had to fight our way through vegetation and regretted that we didn’t bring a machete.
The creek at camp [22.4/1158] had dried out, so we took the 14-C detour to the lake {14-C} [0.9/1535] to fill our water bladders.
Found an araucaria tree with a low hanging ripe piña that we harvested and later peeled and cooked - sabroso!
Locked gate at S 38°53.3561’ W 71°27.0191’, that we had to climb over.
Camped at S 38°53,4797’ W 71°27.8106’ next to the river.
The next day we climbed another locked gate at S 38°53.6540’ W 71°29.4936’. Hiked only half a day, took the afternoon off and camped at S 38°54.5929’ W 71°29.9113’, at a small camp ground for 10 luca per night for two ppl and one tent.
Ascended to the Nevados de Sollipulli summit the next morning on the CONAF path (14-1), which was easy to walk. A properly maintained hiking path in the beginning and volcanic gravel further up. Then enjoyed another relaxed afternoon at the camp ground.
Next day we continued to the camp at [46.9/1091]. Easy road walking on a private road, between a forest and a beautiful river bed with little traffic (only a few 4WDs).
The next day we bought some food at the Mini Shop at [57.8/856], which had a way better selection than the shops in Reigolil center. Would’ve fully resupplied there, if we had known that already. Continued to the bridge at [59.8/835] and spent some relaxing hours next to and in the river. The fast food restaurant in Reigolil was closed, so no restaurant food for us. Resupplied at the shop at [60.0/838] with a very limited choice of foods and continued onto GPT15.
* '''2025-02-08 to 2025-02-10 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RH+Var A+RR+OH01 volcano+RR/ Dorota Szparaga'''
Day 1: At 3 p.m. from Icalma, I took variant OH1 till km.17.9 of RR. It was Saturday and "feria" en ICalma, so there were a lot of cars on OH1. In ICalma, I bought coffee y sopapillas de piñones. There were fodder tracks and many shops there. Without cars, this option is not so bad because you can admire the lake. I joined RR crossing the fence. Then the trail went through a very calm and beautiful forest. Some fences, but easy to cross. Then I took Var C to camp at the lake.
Day 2: a little crazy. I started very early to reach the point of the park ranger before 11 a.m. taking RR. Some fences, sometimes I needed to pass under them. There was nobody in "puestos". Part between km 30.9/29.6 and 31.9/30.9 of 1 km is something like a technical road to the installation managing water from the river. The last part I passed by a big pipe. I was not sure it was safe. I arrived 5 minutes before 11. Guardaparques was very polite and took care of my backpack. After me, two guys passed by the entrance without a problem. But I think that it is better to be there before 11. There is no possibility of camping near the entrance to the trail on Vulcan. Then I took the variant OH1 to Vulcan. The trail was very easy and touristy. The last part from 2000 height there was snow, but the trail is on the left side. The views were amazing. Then I came back the same route. The guardaparques has a camp on var H, point -38.90999,-71.49837 for 10000 clp. It is about 1.5 km before the park and there are good signs to this place. It is a very nice place close to the river: bathrooms, picnic tables, and a place to charge phones. Also, there was a net - Entel.
Day 3:
Very easy and climatic trail to Ragolil. The rivers are calm and not deep. There is camping before Ragolil "Rayem mapu" at point -39.08640, -71.46810. Before the village Reigolil I met "micro" . The driver stopped to take me to his house - he has "hospedaje" for 15000 beds plus a little dinner ( Lodging (59.2+0.3/843). Very hot water was really nice. In front of their house was a shop. The other one is near the bus, but there were only sweets things to eat. There was also a bar with papas and completos.
* '''2025-02-02 to 2025-02-05 / 4 days / NOBO / Huerquehue - Sollipulli traverse / Celio, Amalia '''
We did the huerquehue sollipulli traverse as suggested by Tomas and Natalie report.
First of all thanks to them for this option!
It's a very beautiful traverse but demanding on the south to north summit traverse of the sollipulli.
Huerquehue :
From Pucón there is 3 buses going to the entrance of the park (8:30am 12am and 16:30pm). There is 3 also living the park (around 1h later than the previous). Pucon was crowded and we decided to stay at the beginning of the trail at camping Olga (amazing place, no wifi and electricity btw, 9000$ each). When you get to the park entrance they will ask you your reservation at the camping and then ask you what's your trail plan and check your reservation for the park.
There we just said that we planned to do the lagos loop, since the traverse is not authorized anymore. We had reserved the entrance in advance for the next day ( careful on monday the park is closed...).
The next day we started early and went by the control "nido de aguila" by 9am and no one was there so we kept going. Once in laguna Huerquehue it's easy to follow the trail going down the other side (blues dots, overgrown a bit). You get to the old camping place reñahue and met with the trail going to termas rio blanco that's well maintained. We stayed at eco termas rio blanco, 15000$ each, amazing therms!
Next day we followed the dirt road (you pass an old lumber exploitation) until 39.105063° S 71.545074° W. There is a sign saying laguna isolde, there start the trail. Note that you will come over several gates on the dirt road but we asked 2 persons and it's supposedly not a problem. At laguna isolde if you want to reach the shore, seek for the middle west shore, there is a trail following a dry rocky river bed that take you to the shore and a fire place. People camp there.
After that the trail go down to the gravel road, that you follow 2km on the east until you find the start of the lago cochor trail (there is a sign for it).
Going up lago cochor is a very nice trail well maintained and beautiful. Lago cochor is a perfect place to camp and we were not alone! 5 other tent.
Sollipulli traverse :
Next day we started the sollipulli traverse. There is a visible trail until you get out of the forest then it's less visible until the summit.
At the beginning to avoid the small detour just after lago cochor we shortcut in the forest staying on the ridge (savimg a few meter and elevation) 39.037476° S 71.553153° W.
After the south summit start the Tomás and Natalie suggestion track for the traverse.
Careful!
It's getting more demanding from this point, more alpine terrain and at the beggining there is a small downclimbimg (going Nobo) to do on a 4m wall. I guess it's was not there when Tomás did it earlier in the season with more snow. It's here 38.999587° S 71.520148° W.
This is where we find out to be the easiest. I guess someone can try higher up on the snow but it's quite steep and on the map is shown as a Glaciar, even if I doubt there is still crevasses...
After that it's walking mostly on moraine ground and volcanic rocks. I recommend to take the lower option of Tomás and especially here, 38.994149° S 71.499742° W, as the more higher option is exposed on a steep snow slope where a fall could "hurt" you.
Also be careful to strictly follow is track here 38.978334° S 71.491617° W, since on the west or east it's a cliff. The way down is steep but on loose rock where you can "ski" down. If you want to avoid it you have to go way more east than the semi transparent blue track of Tomás. Around here I'll say 38.978328° S 71.487167° W.
After this it get easier and we camp at the blue lake just down southeast of the north summit. Next day we joined the option 1 and went down the north face to the park ranger then the gravel road and hitchhiked to melipeuco.
This traverse is probably a lot more scenic than the RR but it's demanding and require skills on alpine terrain especially later in the season when there is less snow and with that downclimbimg involved.
* '''2025-01-17 to 2025-01-18 / 2 days / NOBO / RR / Tobias '''
First night I camped next to Río Machín (-39.03706, -71.46988), 2 km before “Police” {14} [49.3/1000]. There was no police. But at the next Puesto {14} [48.4/1078] the owner wrote down my name. Did not need to pay there. Went up the pass and took option 1 for getting up to Vulcan Sollipulli. Easy trail, amazing place up there!! Then I went down where the conaf trail starts. Rangers did not put any attention on me. I went to hot springs (-38.89384, -71.49345), because I thought about staying there. The owner showed me the place, full of algas and the water is cold, so I continued. Stayed at Camp {14} [22.4/1158] after 38 km of walking. Next day I continued 17 km to laguna chica de Icalma, where I continue packrafting in some days with Mara. For the overgrown part I recommend long trousers. Beautiful section, no bad surprises.
* ''' 2025-JAN-02 > 03 / 1,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / 14-A > RR / Pierre-Marie '''
Etape : GPT14+GPT15+GPT16+GPT17+GPT18+GPT19
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 2/5
| Difficulté : 0/5
| Danger : aucun
Bus Bio-Bio pour Lonquimay le 01 à 11h30, puis bus le 02 à 14h pour Cruzaco, puis auto-stop jusqu'au point X {14-A} [6.8/1319] (compliqué de sortir du GPT...). La rando est top et la piste en parfait etat. Je voulais relier les pistes 14-01 et 14-01B en traversant le cratère du volcan, mais le gardien du parc m'a dit que c'etait impossible. Je suis donc passé par la vallée. Pas de pont au km 33,5 mais facile a traverser. Après le col au km 42, la rando n'est plus interessante. C'est de la gravel road jusqu'a la fin.
*'''2024-DEC-29 to 2024-DEC-31 / 2 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''
This is a relatively easy stage with one challenging BB section; the rest is mostly along MR.
We departed from Villa Icalma in the afternoon, carrying food supplies for two days. The first night we stayed at a campsite {13} [35.2/1172], where we paid 10,000 CLP for one tent. The locals warned us about the risk of forest fires and asked us not to light any fires.
At coordinates (-38.8421396, -71.3628436), there is a log bridge to cross the stream. The following TL section is heavily overgrown and littered with fallen trees. Progress was slower here, but the path was still navigable. At the end of this overgrown part, we took a detour to a small, picturesque lake (-38.8676092, -71.3797418), where we refilled our water supplies. There were also a few picnic tables.
At coordinates (-38.8892305, -71.4503356), we encountered a locked gate that we had to climb over. At Lodge Nevados de Sollipulli [33.4/1188], basic food supplies are available for purchase. However, the nearby bridge [33.8/1188], marked in the track files, was missing, so we had to ford the river.
The remainder of the stage held no further surprises.
* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''December 17–26 2024 / 10 days/ Packrafting / SOBO / New option combining Huella Andina and nearby lakes from Icalma/Villa Pehuenia to Paso Mamuil Mamal (road from Pucón to Argentina) GPT14 RP?, GPT15-RP???'''</span>
TL;DR: If you like people suffering, skip to days 7–9.
(Note: putting everything here, even though this technically spans two sections - there is no possibility to legally cross borders back to GPT15.)
Summary: This is a new, scenic and varied route made for packrafters but can be done by hikers as well. As compared to the Chilean side (GPT14/15), it has very minimal road walking and we highly recommend it if you don’t mind missing Sollipulli. It begins near the Argentinian border near Icalma and Villa Pehuenia. It then utilizes the Huella Andina (HA) for most parts and ends in the Lanin national Park near the Pucon border, via crossing a mighty dense 5km bushwhack and sailing across Lago Tromen. The end is the crux, it took us 3days to cover 5km, and although we do not deem it “safe” due to the susceptibility to injury with no way of rescue, it is worth the battle. For hikers there is a lot of terrain worth exploring on the south side of Lago Quillen that would connect you back to the main road, and or end at Lago Quillen. We are really happy this worked out because it then connects flawlessly to our Lanin traverse created in 2023/2024, that is if you can manage food. Please don’t let the bushwhack throw you off, for the most part the going was easy.
Had this not been our first section of the year, loaded with a packraft and food for ten days it could have been done much faster. And the bushwhack should only take 2 days, not 3. I will refer to the KMZ file downloadable from wikiexplora article about HA. At this time of the year, we practically never carried water, it was everywhere, it would likely be different at the end of summer. We never met any park rangers, so we do not know if any permits or payments are needed. In Villa Pehuenia, we were told by the tourist information office that HA is only open from Lago Ñorquinco, and indeed it is only marked from there, but the two previous sections exist as trails or roads and did not present with any obstacles. It is probable they are just not maintained as they are not in any National Park. While hiking we only met one daypacker and one group of MTBikers.
Day 0 - Crossing from Icalma to Villa Pehuenia - 4 km.
In Icalma, we asked a local working in a garden whether there was a taxi in Icalma and he offered to drive us to the border for 5 thousand CLP, which we accepted. It was a big help since the border was closing at ~7pm (it may have been 6pm but we only had an hour or so for BOTH crossings). At the border, we were informed that Argentina requires a boat certificate of disinfection by a Chilian officer, but the Argentinians did not ask for it (for details, see this discussion: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1956717948167415/). We didn't get a hitch between the border controls, but soon after in Argentina the first car took us to Villa Pehuenia. Villa Pehuenia is a tourist town, with no exchange office but seemingly every shop was willing to change US dollars for Argentinian pesos, ask around to get a decent rate. Shops were open until 21. Resupply is well possible, this being Argentina the food is great, but depending on the inflation food is much cheaper in Chile (the Argentinian border controls did not check our bags stuffed with food at all). There is a dedicated shop for vegetables and fruits here: -38.88139, -71.18762. Paid 10 thousand to sleep at a run-down but functional Complejo Lagrimitas. Phone Claro internet decent.
Day 1 - Villa Pehuenia to Moquehue ‐ 15 km.
Our first independent packrafting trip meant that we fiddled several hours with packing and loading the boat, so we started at 11 AM. Lake was calm and we reached a beach here: -38.91476, -71.27327 around 14:00. The "puesto" marked in OSM sounds more like a settler, dogs and chickens heard. While we ate, whitecap waves developed and when we got back to paddling, we more or less stayed in the same spot, so we opted for hiking the rest of the way. The trail to Moquehue is easy but scenic, so we did not regret it. It is a trail, not a road, OSM has it wrong (will be fixed in the summer) until the last 1 km or so. In Moquehue, we managed to buy bread and nuts, resupply possible, but we had most of our food already. Claro internet (last before end of trip). We followed HA for one km and slept a few hundred metres beyond the town here: -38.95579, -71.32329 (no water).
Day 2 - Moquehue to ridge above the next valley - 13 km.
We followed HA until just before Filo Cerro Plomo. Appart from first 2 km, it is a 4x4 road (sad) through a beautiful forest (happy). Sidetrip to viewpoint here -38.96209, -71.32286 worth the ten minutes it takes. There is a ridge above the HA that should be accessible through OSM path starting here -38.95090, -71.31670 (mapped based on Strava, so might be CC). It would be an alternative option but looked easy and beautiful, probably preferable in good weather. There are also alternative paths around -38.97080, -71.32003 which are mapped based on Strava. Could be an artifact of a race or one single mad person doing the same round over and over, but it should get you to the ridge as well.
Anyway, on HA, the trackfiles are a bit wrong for an important turn off -39.00634, -71.30802. At that point you will see two trails, leave the road and go up. We met some bikers here, only people we met for the next two days. Path up is not visible, but the forest is open and you go basically straight up. When you reach low lying beech shrubbery, the path reapers and takes you to the saddle. Down below, at the turn off, there is a creek if you follow the main road for a little bit, you may want to fill up on water. From the saddle we opted to follow the ridge NE from HA. It is spectacular and while steep, no hands are needed to advance. With a packraft and 10 days of food it was slow. We slept near a seasonal lake around -39.03013, -71.28361, very beautiful.
Day 3 - Ridge above the next valley to Lago Ñorquinco - 15 km.
We followed the ridge for 2km and then discovered a recently maintained trail down to the valley here: -39.05003, -71.28180. We took it. It took us down through beech shrubbery to here -39.05142, -71.28621. Then it kind of petered out but the forest was open enough for us to easily reach the HA in the valley. The HA is quite a wide path that must have been made with a digger some time back, but it is not used by cars up to -39.08562, -71.30652. We originally wanted to stay on the ridge longer and go down from here: -39.08760, -71.29079, but we were very much unsure it would work, so considering the wind and grey weather we were in, this new found trail down was a blessing.
We followed the HA to Ruta Provincial 11, but it might be advisable to cut to the NW corner of the lake from here: -39.11217, -71.30914 to avoid roadwalking and a detour. There seems to be a path on satellite in the suitable direction and the landscape is reasonably open. Arroyo Nompehuen must be forded anyway (knee deep on main road).
We put our packraft in here -39.12056, -71.31909. It is a campsite where noone was in attendance, otherwise day-access is about 4 thousand pesos per person, so you might want to reach the lake farther. There are showers and toilets and a trashbin at this camp though. It was a bit windy (from West) and rain was coming, so despite the small size of the lake and low fetch, whitecap waves developed. Their direction was suitable for us and we crossed the lake along the southern shore to find a very wind sheltered camp next to a creek behind a bush here: -39.12056, -71.31909.
Day 4 - Lago Ñorquinco - to Arroyo Calfiquiera - 19 km.
The next day we paddled to -39.14420, -71.29466 and joined HA from there. According to OSM, the lake can be hiked around from both directions. West side seems preferable. HA starts to be marked here. It is actually mostly a very old eroded road made with a digger probably decades back. It has overwhelmingly the characteristics of a trail. Cascada Coloco is very pretty. Once you reach the pass, where there is a puesto and cows, the trail turns into a road that is very rarely used, it seemed. Vivac Pampa de Castro would probably give you shelter in rain and is open enough for hanta virus not to be a worry.
We reached Arroyo Calfiquiera which we planned to paddle here: -39.22814, -71.27044 (before that it is a wild stream). The creek is overgrown just after that, luckily there were two locals living there who were fishing and helped us carry our fully loaded packraft to -39.22933, -71.26945. After that there was one more narrow and almost overgrown section (-39.23189, -71.26735), so you might want to put in just after that (follow the 4x4 tracks visible on satellite). From then on, apart from two low lying bridges, no portages were needed (we shortly walked our boat once or twice through some narrow braided passages). We camped at -39.23857, -71.25184 just before a class 1 rapid (that turned out to be the biggest on the river). Tomáš left his scissors from his Victorinox card there, you might find them at the edge of grass.
Day 5 - Arroyo Calfiquiera to Vivac Malalco Chico - 18 km.
In the morning, the rapid turned out to be dangerous only for one's knees. The bridges are here: -39.24453, -71.24944 and -39.24874, -71.21634. There is a creek with fresh water flowing in at -39.24601 -71. 21842. With all the packing and unpacking, it is for sure quicker to walk on HA (which leaves the road for a trail in the valley for at least a part of its length). However, packrafting is recommended as part of the arroyo flows through an Aracauria forest and all along you get nice views of surrounding mountains. It is also good practice for beginners, we thought, being beginners ourselves. Down at the lake, we ferried across an American who said she would climb a mountain north of the lake nearby using a trail disclosed by a local.
We did not packraft across the lake and instead got out at the picnic area at the west end of the lake (small stream for drinking but walk up a bit bcs there is an outhouse near the stream). After lunch made a shortcut to the ridge.
After about 500 metres along the lake on the road, we turned right uphill and soon found a trail used by horses recently here: -39.25142, -71.19640. It was easy to follow and joined HA here -39.25310, -71.18395. It would be great if somebody could investigate where in the valley (presumably further up) it originates. There are a few puestos high up on this side so more trails are expected. The HA itself then crosses a very attractive (old volcanic) plateau. It is probably (one of) the nicest part of the HA that we have seen so far (out of a half)(Nat still thinks near Ache Niyeu was the best HA section). We camped at a valley designated by the KMZ files as a bivauc and it is a good camping spot, but do not expect any facilities or people.
Natalie devised an idea where you would CC from here: -39.25687, -71.23304 onto the ridge, traverse Cerro Rucachoroi and join HA here: -39.31090, -71.20943. It all looked like well passable CC, but we never got a good view of the peak itself and are unsure if it can be sidehilled or crossed. Some of the sub-peaks obstructing the view were rather vertical, but ridges that we saw were passable. Up for an exploration.
Day 6 - Vivac Malalco Chico to Lago Quillèn - 21 km.
Going down is straightforward. However, there are some fighting of fallen branches. About 200 metres of altitude above the valley, you hit a creek that you will cross several times downstream. After crossing Arroyo Malalco (which looks great for packrafting, but do your research), a local from Comunidad Laf Lefiman offered us a cabaña with Starlink internet for 60 thousand,but it was too early so we went on. When we reached the lake, we saw a family with a paddleboard and kayaks that we saw the previous day at Lago Rucachoroi. Park rangers were nowhere to be seen. It was quite windy and waves looked big, so we used our packraft to cross the outlet from the lake and walked along the beach to join MR that runs along the southern side of the lake until -39.43088, -71.2848, where we camped. We met a group of people fishing there but they soon left.
Day 7 - Lago Quillèn to Somewhere in bamboo - 13 km.
We started early (aiming for sunrise) and paddled on lake Quillèn to reach old buildings here: -39.42796, -71.42474. They were a (probably recentishly) abandoned border police station, as far as we could tell. The lake had some waves already in the morning but they were quite manageable and it took us about 4 hours to paddle the 13 km or so. Along the way, there would be places to camp, especially on the beach here: -39.42164, -71.36282 where there is fresh water. After the police station, we got onto a beach here: -39.43593, -71.41508. We cleared a place for a tent and entry into the forest, we did not check for water but satellite says there is a creek outlet about 50 m NW from there. Then the "fun" part started, at about 15:00. Natalie's many many warnings about the forest looking impenetrable turned out to be true. It is an ancient Chilean beech (Roble/Coigue) forest with a completely native understory of many shrubs but mainly just walls of bamboo. In the grand scheme of things, if we had stuck to the creek bed we would have made the crossing in two (long) days. But because we left the creekbed several times, this 5km crossing took us 3 days.
At the beginning, while we were not yet on a steep slope, we were moving at a healthy speed of maybe 400m an hour. We found a creek here: -39.43977, -71.41793 that allowed us to walk without obstruction for about 15m. It was turning into a canyon, which we did not like, so we continued to the east of it. Little did we know how foolish that was! In the beginning, as it got steeper, we would sometimes find an area full of flat dead woody bambo that would allow us to jump about twenty metres before fighting the green bamboo again. As we progressed (at a speed of maybe 250m per hour), we noticed we were on a side of a steep canyon made by erosion from water running down the slope. Details of the satellite map revealed that we were two such ravines removed from the main creek. We crossed one over a log, that was maybe 10 m long and was maybe 6 m high above the lowest point of the canyon. It was getting dark so we cleared a somewhat even spot for a camp (sorry forest). After six hours and some zigzagging caused by the canyons, we were about 1 km from where we started. Survey without a backpack suggested we might be able to rejoin the main canyon the next day which was about 100 m far (and thirty metres below).
Day 8 - Somewhere in bamboo to dried creekbed - 1 km.
New survey in the morning made us go backdown as the main canyon's wall seemed like a landslide and almost vertical. We started to follow down a ravine between us and the main creek, hoping it would join it. After three hours, 400 m of distance and two failed surveys in the direction of the main canyon, we finally managed to make a crossing. A rule for heavy duty bushbashing seems to be: always follow the water (Nat doesn’t agree because she says that’s how many accidents happen on the Pacific Northwest. But in this forest the water is a better option). The water way is not exactly quicker, but psychologically being able to see more than 5 metres in advance and not having to constantly fight branches from one's face is a tremendous benefit. It also helps with orientation and hopefully provides a possible passage. We of course set a turn-back time by which we would turn back if we did not reach the pass. However, I (Tomáš) am not the most responsible at times and convinced us both that we forgo the turn around time because we still had food for three more somewhat fasting days. So onwards we went.
We started to go up the creek at a speed of about 200 metres an hour, so after about 5-6 hours, we managed to get under the place where we slept... We agreed that we could have probably gone down there, saving us 5 hours of a detour, the canyon walls being steep, but in some places having enough bamboo to provide good (but never truly certain) holds. At about -39.44779, -71.41624, there was a confluence of two canyons, and we decided to go through a rather open, steep and slope to the right . After about 100m, we traversed back left to the main creek. It was now six in the evening. Still hoping to reach the pass (hey, just 500m of distance!) and facing somewhat overgrown waterfall in the main ravine roughly -39.45067, -71.41624. We again opted to go right but this time it was more of a scramble due to steepness. Above this scramble we reached a beech-bush combined with bamboo understory, slowing us down to maybe 50 m an hour (Bamboo intertwined with concrete like twister sticks is the worst combination). After an hour or so, we found a ravine that we partially followed and traversed back to the main creek. It still had some waterfalls that turned out to be scalable and after 100 m (our speed returning to a solid 250 m per hour), it turned dry. It now being 9 PM, we built a camp inside of the creekbed. Looking back, especially the second diversion was a mistake and we should have stayed in the canyon (the waterfall was probably scalable with passing backpacks and such). The variety of plant and insect species that live in and around the creekbed was amazing. Luckily very little tabanos or other obnoxious insects, which was true for all these 5 km.
Day 9 - Dried creekbed to somewhere in bamboo II - 3 km.
In the morning, Tomáš went exploring and found the other side of the pass much preferable, so around ten, we set off to continue. After an easy 40-minute 300m traverse to the pass, the character of the valley changed a lot and walking became easier, a nice Christmas present:).The almost open beech forest and a relatively regular creekbed (with water) enabled us to reach -39.45964, -71.41716 in a superb speed of almost 600m/hour. From there, we followed the river through a dense old and amazing canopy. At about 400 m/ hour, we eventually got to a 20 m cascading (not vertical) waterfall here: -39.47088, -71.41775. To its left, we managed to cut a path with our machete, passing each other our backpacks on the not-entirely vertical somewhat crumbly climb-down. Unfortunately we do not think our holds will last long as we scaled it down in mainly mud and fragile rock (rope or bamboo bashing walkaround should do). Afterwards, our speed again decreased to about 200 m an hour, overcoming many logjams and much smaller waterfalls. We camped around -39.47449, -71.41901. Natalie somehow left her insoles there. All the scrambling we have done both up and down were manageable (T4 to T5 on SAC scale), though a rope of 10 or 15 m or so would have been at certain moments quite useful. We used our leashes, straps and carabineers for lowering our backpacks.
Day 10 - Somewhere in bamboo II to Paso Mamuil Mamal - 17 km.
In the morning, we took three hours mostly following the creek or bashing bamboo alongside it to reach the shore (yay!), where Tomáš somehow left his beloved trusty headphones: -39.48276, -71.42544. Should you find them, give them a decent burial. We inflated our packraft and paddled across Lago Tromen (which offers tremendous views) in about 2,5 hours to outlet of Rio Malleo, meeting people again after several days. Rio Malleo has probably too much of a drop to be packrafted safely but looks tempting to Tomáš. After a long lunch, eating the last meal we had, we crossed the river and walked along the OSM trail to the National Park office near the border. Nobody paid attention to us there, so we walked to the Argentinian border control, from which we got a hitch all the way to Pucon, seeing Clara hitchhiking around the end of the Villarica Traverse. Pucon did not have Tomáš's favourite icecream like last year and in general did not feel as good as previous years (cherries were perfect though). We were very glad and maybe somehow euphoric we made it .
Overall, the forest was incredible. However, if we broke a limb or worse, we doubt help would come, so only do this if you are prepared for self-evacuation or face the consequences. We are however convinced that with good navigation, and staying mainly in the creek, it could take two long days to do the BB traverse, one for going up the pass and one down. The BB has difficulty 7 in GPT terms. If one chooses to go NOBO it might suck extra with the extra weight…
* '''17Dec2024 - 20dec2024 / hiking SOBO / RR from ~km30 - OH1 A/R (cumbre sollipulli) - RR - GPT15 OH1 / 4 days / Clara'''
Hitchhike from Icalma to Tracura and then Huechelepun (took me half day with multiple cars and still few km of road walking, not much cars)
OH1 (cumbre sollipulli by north side) : no one of conaf at park 31. It's written that they don't allow people to go up after 11am so may be a problem if they're here (maybe more during full turism season).
Very easy trail for 7km and 1000d+, steep and snow at the top but easy going slow. Really nice full snow cratere on the top !! Descent by same path cause low clouds comming (except took 1a short cut that is good).
Ruta de Baquedanos (RR) is easy dirt road walking. Camp spots with water almost everywhere (maybe less between 40 and 46). Not many nice views all along.
Then RR until GPT15 opt1 (a bit after settlment 51.7).
Sleep in hospedaje Veronica that is lower on 15-OH-1a. (15k for bed + private bathroom with cold water + breakfast). She and her husband are really nice. She used to have a cafeteria and sell honey, charcuterias and other products that she did. For now she has family issues so she only keep the hospedaje but she told me that she's thinking to reopen it in january or february.
* '''2024-dec-05 to 2024-dec-08 / 3.5 Days (1 day rest due to bad weather) / Hiking / SOBO / RR - D / Karin'''
I took the RR through the overgrown part. It was managable, but for some parts I had to look closly on the GPS not to loose track. There were lots of fallen trees/branches blocking the way. With the vegetation growing, I think it will become more difficult to get through.
Camp spot at km17.9 was very wet and swompy, due to the rain. But, I guess that it would be good on nice days.
On that kind of plateau (alt. 1500m) was still a bit of snow, but nothing to worry about.
Camp on km22.4 looked nice (lots of curious cows). After this camp, about 1km, was a locked gate, which was not so easy to climb.
As it was raining heavily (stronger than perdicted), I took var D in order to find a refuge. After a few km, I found cabañas (Santa Victoria) where I could stay for two nights ever that it is still off season. Very nice people working there.
At the park ranger km31.8, as I didn't see anybody so I just walked through.
The bridge at the Laguna (km33.5) was not there, but the river was easy to ford, so as well for the fords all the way up to the pass km41.5. The water was never higher than mid-calf/knee.
I camped at camp km46.9. Very nice and large spot.
The Ruta del Baqueano seems to be a high used biking or off road driving track. I meet a lot of cars and bikes.
As I did GPT 13-15 in one, I did not stop neither in Icalma nor in Reigolil, so I cannot say if there is enough for resupply.
* '''2024 nov 13 / 1 Day/ Hiking / SOBO/ hitchhiked to huechelepun + RR till reigolil/ Allie '''