26
ediciones
Cambios
→Season 2025/26
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=
*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''
- Sadly, in March 2025 the hiker Tim Atkinson disappeared while hiking GPT12 in northbound direction. Several searches were conducted in April and May 2025 but Tim was not found. He was last seen near Kilometer 63 (-38.393870°, -71.022360°) hiking northbound (towards Kilometer 0). See also the Facebook post to Tim's disappearance.
Since none of the searches could locate Tim, an accident while hiking along the Regular Route seams less likely now. Possibly, Tim suffered a health issue while resting or camping in a more hidden location a bit off the trail. Therefore, all hikers that walk GPT12 are asked to keep their eyes open and scan for possible hidden camp sites a bit off the trail. Should someone spot a lone collapsed tent or other traces of Tim, then please record the precise location by GPS and report your observations to the Carabineros (Chilean Police) and Jose Herrera (+56998252577) who coordinated the search earlier in 2025.
- Regular Route: I rerouted the regular route between Kilometer 61 and 70 due to right-of-way conflicts in the upper valley Mitrauquen. This change bypasses several puestos where some hikers had been treated unpleasantly. I also rerouted the southern terminus near Liucura to avoid several new fences and gates. Now the final 2 km are on a minor road and a primary road.
- GPT12 Option 3D and 3E (Meseta de Malonehue): It would be useful when an experienced hiker investigates this connection that is not fully visible on satellite images. The Puesto {12-03D} [7.0/1789] makes it very likely that a trail in the forest connects this puesto with the road down in the valley but the forest hides this route on satellite images. If this route is good to walk and people along the route are not bothered by hikers then I consider rerouting the Regular Route once again to completely bypass the upper valley Mitrauquen.
==Season 2025/26==
* ''' GPT12 | 2026-01-17 to 2026-01-19 I 2 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Option 2 / 2a | Michaela '''
Day 1: I connected GPT11 with GPT12 via Option 1. I started GPT12 around 2 pm, after lunch at Pelehue Hot Spring. I did not bathe there; the water was milky, muddy, and only lukewarm, but the surroundings were very beautiful. At Baños Coyucos, there were many people with tents and horses (unfortunately, I arrived on a Saturday), so I decided to skip them. I camped here: -38.190587, -71.052715. The spot was not very flat, but it was somewhat hidden and next to water.
Day 2: I realized I did not have enough food to complete the section, so I decided to go to Lonquimay tomorrow via Option 2. I camped here: -38.354168, -71.16396, a very nice grassy spot next to the river.
Day 3: I crossed the river to follow Option 2a, then headed to Lolén to get a lift to Lonquimay from the main road. I was lucky: about 3 km before the main road, a bus to Lonquimay passed and I could hop on (around 13:20). In Lonquimay I stayed at a very nice place: Hostal Patagonia Norte 25.000 CLP per night including breakfast.
At the bus terminal in Lonquimay the gave me this information:
Busses to Licura: daily (not sure about weekends) at 15:00
Busses to Icalma: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 12:00 and 15:00
Attraction: 5/5, Difficulty: 3,5/5
'''GPT12,11,10/ 2026 Jan 8-12/ NOBO / Options 5G & 2 (12), 4 & 2B (12), 1C, 1, 2, 2A (10) / 5 days/ hiking / Bailey & Illiana'''
Important information
See my last entry for right of way issues for option 2A GPT10
Information for ferry on option 5G out of Lonquimay;
We were told by Fernando (operator)
- operates Monday to Friday 8:30 am -5:30 pm
- operates 8 am -10 am Saturday 4 pm -6 pm
- Doesn't run Sunday
- Government paid, Free
- Fernando typically takes lunch around 1 pm for an hour
- Fernando says you cross without the boat it's waist deep
Day 1
Option 5G - hitch to ferry out of Lonquimay
We took option 2 to connect to RR.
Camp 1 [33.9/1281] Launga Mariñanqui. Beautiful place, plenty of flat ground and sheltered, water from the lake. Meet a group of tourists on a horse riding trip
Day 2
Stopped at hot springs Banos Coyucos, pretty nice set up. Campground looks good here
Summited Cero Dedos via option 4 (Cumbre Cero Dedos). We were considering our options here but storm clouds were rolling in. Hiked down via option 2B hot springs, great set up. Connected back to RR and camped at hot springs on variant D with cow poo
Day 3
Continued along RR, connect to GPT10 via option 1C
Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] very friendly
Camp with water, beautiful river nearby -37.99719, -71.1396
Day 4
As mentioned before, last water is at -37.97455, -71.13867
Next water is at -37.90611, -71.12002
Met a gaucho looking for lost goats (20)
Camped at Hot Spring {10-01} [15.1/1812] (Pucon Mahuida). Found some flatish spots, water wasn't that clear from glacier (clear stream close to the road), exposed
Day 5
Continued along GPT10 option 1
Found water along the way up
-37.871021, -71.202049 there's a glacier fed lake that has some nice camping spots
Summited Copahue via GPT10 option 2 (Cumbre Copahue)
Confirmed good water source at -37.83722, -71.20762
Continued on GPT10 2A and 1A to trapa trapa
We got picked up by two electricians on the road. They took us to a local house who feeds them breakfast every morning. They were so lovely, we paid 20,000 CLP per person for a bed inside, dinner and breakfast
https://maps.app.goo.gl/X4PX5hCK6UBuSucC8
Their numbers are
Jose Pedro & Celina Dina +56 984176548
'''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-08 / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin Ankel'''
A general comment about section 12 is that it includes a lot of cross country hiking. Even when the track files say trail, it is often overgrown or barely visible. A demanding section to be sure, but one of the better ones.
I highly recommend a stop at Los Cuyucos (km 20). The hot spring was amazing. Note that there are two hot springs; one where the marker is, which is not very nice, and one much closer to the camp down by the stream. The second one is very nice and they have built a roof over it. Additionally, the campsite offers shade so it is possible to pitch the tent early without turning it into a sauna.
Leaving Los Cuyucos, there is an unmarked Puesto at S 38.208504° V 71.079601° with potential aggressive cows. Instead of running away from me they came towards me, and the big bull that was a bit further away started charging against me. It stopped when I started running seemingly content with exerting its dominance, demonstrating who is the boss. You just wait till I return with my red cape and sword.
At Lake Marinanqui, the northern side is filled with cows and their feces. The southern side, however, is perfectly still. Good place to take a bath I believe (I did not at the time).
Camp [51.6/1293] was a bit soggy and wet so I went down to Camp 12-E instead.
Regarding the mark “Water ? [54.3/1930] there were a few small pools left contaminated with bird feces. Much of the following lakes were also largely dried out, but there was some good water left.
Puestos [67.2/1822] and [75.3/1549] are destroyed. There is one unmarked puesto at S 38.461189° V 70.989133°.
Camp at [77/1750] was ok, but not great. The lake, Laguna Escondida, is slightly difficult to access, but the water is clear and reasonably warm. A bath is recommended.
At Puesto [78.5/1774] there were four extremely aggressive dogs that followed me for a long time, making several lunges at me, closing their mouths only 10-20 centimeters away from my legs. The inconsiderate owner saw the whole thing and made no attempt in recalling his attack dogs.
In Liucra I highly recommend staying at Hospedaje Normita (check google maps), a private room with two beds and bathroom for 15 000 CLP. The bus departs towards Victoria at 7:10, and if I understood correctly 16:00 every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. I changed buses in Lonquimay to go to Temuco from where I took another bus to Pucon. The whole journey took about 8 hours.
''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''
We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).
Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5
*''' 2025.15.12 to 2025.17.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt. 2 / Kris and Stiina'''
We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an ankle injury we had to change our plans and finish this section in Lonquimay via option 2.
(Continued from Section 11)
In the afternoon of day 3 we joined the GPT 12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637 and started ascending right away on the steep trail towards Cerro Dedos.
Camp Without Water {11} [32.5+0.7/1706] was actually a really nice spot by an abandoned puesto and I believe the water could be found in the gully to the west. Because when we crossed it higher up there was a small stream flowing in it.
On the first part of the ascent the weather did seem to be improving and we thought we had made the right call to continue the day and to go high up again. However the higher we got the more we realized it was actually a mistake and we should have called it a day and camped already by lunch lower down in the valley, oh well, hindsight 20/20.
The slivers of clear sky had disappeared and it was fully overcast and the very cold wind was blasting us once again. From around 2000m elevation it was again miserable and very cold. Which was a real shame because the surrounding area was just stunningly beautiful, but because of our mistake we couldn’t take time to fully enjoy it.
The Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue) was actually a nice area with smoking ground some sheltered campsites made from stone walls and a one really nice looking pool with an old showel next to it to excavate it deeper.
Would be an epic campsite in good weather!
But for us the cold wind was so intense that we didn’t linger around for too long. And only after the termas the really cold part of the ascent started, we were wearing all of the clothes that we had while walking uphill quickly and we were still cold, the wind was numbingly cold.
And it was a long 4km gradual ascent which would have been a delight in good weather.
We had some views below the cloud level which was roughly at 2400m but it was way too intense cold to enjoy any of them, we just kept moving to not freeze to death.
The last km before the pass -38.14220, -71.02670 got to borderline extreme the wind was so strong it was pushing us around like ragdolls and the cold was unbearable. The only other time we had wind so strong on the trail was in Patagonia on GPT40 Paso Huemul but even then it wasn’t nearly as cold as it was now.
Anyway, getting over the pass and starting the descent was a relief, since the wind was coming from the west most of it stayed on the other side of the pass.
Our goal was to get to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos) but when we already got to the Camp {12} [17.0/1794] we were pretty tired and decided to settle there for the night which was another mistake. Even though the forecast didn’t promise freezing temperatures at night it did drop below 0C and our tent and all surroundings got covered in frost at night, and it was very damp and cold location, we had a rough night.
Day 4 - Finally the sun and the warmth was back, hallelujah! We enjoyed a slow morning partially because it was just nice and warm that we hadn’t experienced what felt like in a while and partially because we were just mentally and physically, really tired.
Luckily it seemed like an easy and straightforward day terrain wise, which it was.
Because of the 3 cold days we had eaten more of our food than we should’ve which meant we would have to ration it to make it last until Liucura what for now was still the goal.
Termas/Baños Coyucos - was a really nice campsite with tables and fireplace and even a dry toilet that unfortunately was locked. The termas needed some work though, the hot water coming from the mountain was mixing with the cold river. The barrier separating the two had seemingly eroded and needed to be restored. There was also some sort of a wooden roof over the shallow pool, so potentially even good in rain.
Almost for the whole day yesterday and still today we saw footprints of two people going in the opposite direction which we could only assume were two other GPT hikers? We figured out that we had probably missed them by a few hours while having lunch on GPT 10 before joining the GPT11 since they probably took the RR there not the 1C.
Also it had been 3 days since we last saw another person but just before lunch we met an ariero going up the valley and a bit later we met 3 Chilean hikers coming from an overnight camp by Laguna Mariñanqui.
All the fords on Rio Pulul were very easy. Tabanos had returned but not with the same force they had before the cold spell was upon the area.
After the lunch Stiina’s ankle had started to show some signs of discomfort, initially we thought it’s just the shoe that needs adjustment but by the time we got to X {12} [44.9/1048] it was clear that the next two days to get to Liucura would be very tough with the ankle pain that she had developed. Additionally to that our food situation wasn’t looking great, if it was only for the food we would have continued but it was also the ankle. So for once probably a smart decision was made to not continue all the way to Liucura and to make an exit on Option 2 to Lonquimay. We would sleep on it and see if there were any improvements the following day.
We forded Rio Rahue -38.34630, -71.15760 which was an easy, shallow ford with a pleasant water temperature.
We camped here: -38.34625, -71.15846 under some tall araucarias.
Day 5 - Stiina’s ankle was still painful so we continued with our Plan B - Option 2 to Lonquimay. An easy walk past quite a few groups of our favorite animal the bloody cow. No scary encounters but we were followed by a few to make sure we leave.
About a km before the raft crossing of Rio BioBio a car of official Chilean Ministry of Agriculture workers were passing and offered us a ride to Lonquimay, perfect, what a luck!
What they did was, they stopped by the last house before the raft -38.40919, -71.24454 and summoned a guy who would operate the raft and take us all across. Not sure how that would work coming from the other direction. And I would say the river did look crossable a bit downstream from the raft. We didn’t really talk to any of the workers or the guy because we were sitting outside in the back of a truck.
We got to Lonquimay for lunch and after that took a bus to Temuco for some rest and recovery time. Next we are off to attempt sections 16-22.
For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures
''' Dec 09th 2025 – Dec 14th 2025/ 5.5 days / NOBO / Lonquimay 5G, Option 2, Option 3, RR / Matt&Linda '''
We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa.
''' Important info ''': we tried to take the ferry Balsa Rahue on option 2 on a Tuesday going NOBO. We waited from 12:30pm – 3:30pm and no one arrived to operate the ferry. We asked at the homestead on the other side of the river once we hh/hiked our way around. We were told that “the sign needs to be updated, it is operating from 8:30 to 11 am, more or less.”
Day 1: we started at 8am just outside of Lonquimay and went into town for breakfast and to wait out a heavy rain storm. No Cafés/restaurants were open but we found a panadería La Cava that sold fresh delicious bread and let us sit down in their restaurant. Also access to outlets and bathrooms. HH on Option 5G to Option 2. As mentioned, waited for a several hours to no avail. HH back to Lonquimay on the same route and then further to Lolén with the intention to hike Option 4. Our driver was a local and he advised us to go up Option 2, though. Talked to the settlers here (S 38°24.709, W 71°14.202) who gave us the information about the ferry and offered us a place for the night. When we said we wanted to hike on a little bit more he let us pass through his land to connect faster to Option 2. Many good spots to camp by the river, camped here: S 38°24.546, W 71°12.965.
Day 2: we decided to take Option 3 to the Lagunas Mellizas. Absolutely beautiful, highly recommend! First bit off the MR is a bit tricky, the GPS track follows a fence on the left side which is a bit overgrown, no serious BB but we cut up our legs a bit. There is a homestead here: S 38°25.160, W71°10.987 that the GPS track avoids. After that, the trail becomes easier. Met a kind arriero higher up. More water along the trail than the GPS track indicates. Camped right at the Lagunas here: S 38°22.530, W 71°06.954
Day 3: we continued on Option 3. We think it would be possible to cross on that little land bridge that separates the lagunas if you want to avoid going down and up again to circle the lagunas. We haven’t explored it ourselves but it looks like there are animal tracks going through. We saw the path from here: S 38°22.190, W71° 06.489. The CC Section of Option 3 is beautiful. Going NOBO we advise to stay low here (S 38°21.494, W 71° 05.124) to pass the little lake right on the ridge and then pass on to the left side of the small ridge to reconnect with the RR. The CC section on the RR down into the valley was not enjoyable but the path through the valley was very beautiful! By accidentally passing Ford 12 [45.4/1039] we found a small bridge out of wood planks here (S 38° 20.911, W 71° 09.381). Slept at the Puesto 12-D [0.6/1073] which was closed.
Day 4: straight forward day, all puestos along the way were closed. Followed the RR to the Banos Coyucos at 12 [20.5/1613] and camped at the indicated campsite there. Fords were no problem. Highly recommend staying at the southern end of Laguna Marinanqui if you wanted to stay there, passed a couple of beautiful spots there to pitch a tent. We saw some tourists on horses leaving the hot springs, the campsite there is rather well set up. But the outhouse was locked. I wonder how busy it gets or if you have to pay? There was no one around when we arrived in the rain. The water wasn’t super clean but still great to soak in after a long, wet and cold day!
Day 5: the sky cleared up during the morning and we decided to continue on to the hot spring Banos de Pelehue 11-02B [1.2/2113]. The CC section was pretty easy, there was a visible pass to follow. We had to battle with a lot of wind on the passes though. Because of that we decided against hiking up Cerro Dedos. The views were amazing and seeing the fumaroles was stunning! Luckily, previous hikers had built stone circles as shelters from the wind here: S 38° 07.312, W 71° 03.544. Thank you so much!!! There were 3 of them; 2 big enough to fit a 2p-tent comfortably and maybe a small 3p-tent. 1 looked like it would only fit a 1p-tent. The water was incredibly hot but as indicated on the GPS they are “poorly maintained”. For us that looked like this: we could see constructions out of stone that were intended to form baths but they had filled up with silt. There was a shovel and we worked on digging out the silt for quite a while but to no avail. The water wouldn’t clear up for us. However, still a stunning place with incredible views!
Day 6: we continued on the RR on GPT 12 down into the valley and hopped right onto the RR of GPT 11 without going into Ránquil.
Difficulty: 3/5
Attractiveness 5/5
==Season 2024/25==
*''' 2025-03-31 to 2025-04-6 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Lonquimay 05G, 02, 03, 03C, RR, varA, 01 / Peggy
I started in Lonquimay by taking a microbus that leaves from the bus terminal at 1:30 pm and dropped me off at the junction (km15.5), then I continued on section 02 to take the ferry. It doesn’t operate on weekends. I arrived around 2:15 pm, and a man had me cross 30 minutes later. He showed up to cross himself with others in his car. I don’t know if he’s the official operator.
I stopped early and camped between the RR and section 03 (I forgot to note the exact point). There is a stream running through, and if you go up it a bit you can find good spots.
Day 2, I took section 03. Water at 38.411909, 071.190373W. Easy climb through the forest to the plateau. I chose to go along the small ridge between the GPX track on the right and a track visible on Locus on the left (OSM), to the Lagunas Mezillas where I filled up on water not knowing if I’d find more lower down. With the cold, I don’t sleep next to a lake. Also, it was windy and even more was forecast for the evening. So I went down to the plateau just below and found a good spot sheltered from the wind among the Araucarias. I was also able to make a fire (I don’t have gas, I started with a wood stove but for the past few weeks I’ve been making campfires for cooking and warmth. Sometimes in the morning too). I ended up finding water (38.372273S, 071.122479W).
Day 3, I went down via 03C, which is easy if you stick to the trail. Not being sure about 03C (steep and lots of bamboo), I first chose 03A but quickly switched to the right. The descent goes well mixing BB and CC, less steep and more open than 03C, except for the end with lots of shrubs. I followed cow paths and had to crawl for a few meters at one point! But it worked out!
I eventually stopped at the puesto km37.7, which is in poor condition but gave me shelter from the rain. Here I got weak internet signal via Entel. Water nearby but needs filtering (between RR and the puesto). Lots of space to camp (I chose a spot sheltered in the grove to minimize cold. Temperatures below freezing).
Day 4, I took the RR via the Mariñanqui lagoon. Between the water point at km37.4 and the ford at km36.6, there’s a short steep and slippery section. To avoid it, you can go higher where there are already horse and cow tracks. At the lagoon, I tried to avoid the marshes by skirting around the right side at the end of the lagoon. There’s a trail, but it becomes more and more uncertain and I ended up crossing the marsh anyway. Beautiful forest crossing, easy fords but very cold water in April. In the evening, I reached the Baños Coyucos. I found the water lukewarm but nice for a basic wash. There is a place to camp, but I preferred to cross the stream at the baños and set up a bit further away on the other side. Gorgeous view of the valley. I set up behind bamboo as the wind was already strong and was forecast to increase during the night (I check the wind with my Garmin to know the speed and direction to set up my tent properly, especially when a cold night is coming – I’ve had my tent damaged by wind before). Bad surprise that evening: I had forgotten my tent stakes at the previous camp… Fortunately, I was surrounded by bamboo which worked perfectly for the night (and thankfully I had pitched my tent well because the wind was indeed strong that night).
Day 5, back to the puesto km37.7 where I had left my stakes… Same route as the day before, but with more wind! However, I was facing the right direction to charge my solar battery on my pack.
Day 6, same path as the two previous days except that I chose to take variant A, which avoids the Mariñanqui lagoon and goes through the upper part. It seems to be preferred by arrieros as it is well marked by horses (and cows). The view is beautiful over the mountains, especially in the second part. Water at (38.272804S, 071.111205W). A bit after that, the trail goes up a bit along a small stream (a bit tricky). Then here (38.244753S, 071.082081W) there’s a small river to cross (so water), and a small puesto that can be used in case of problem or bad weather. Here, I again met two arrieros I had seen two days earlier. Very friendly. Arrived back on the RR, in the valley of the puestos, I followed section 01 aiming to buy food at one of the puestos but they were all already closed… Luckily, I found someone and managed to get food at the last one (which doesn’t appear on the map, to the right of the ford km22.1). Thanks to Jaime. I slept above the ford.
Day 7, on the way to the Baños de Pelehue, I met a kind Chilean hiking couple (only the second time in 3 months). Then the Cerros Dedos (see section 11).
At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. They usually require several hours to cook (at this time of year, as they are already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire, so in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling. A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.
*''' 2025-03-01 to 2025-03-05 / 5 days (combined GPT 12 + 11)/ Hiking / NOBO /OH 02 + RR/ Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Temuco to Lonquimay then we hitchhiked up to the camping Lolen (nice camping 8000p per person). We had to start from there because the ferry of option 2 is not working on weekends.
Day 1: we walked along the Ruta R 893 to join the option 2 after the Rio Biobio crossing. We continued on the gravel road of the OH02 until we join RR at km 44.9. There is a ford not mentioned just before but easy to cross.
The route in the valley of puesto [37.7+0.2/1367] is not always easy to follow so we kept looking at the GPS.
Camped at Laguna Mariñanqui.
Day 2 : we walked along the lake. Then we struggled to find our way in the wetlands at the north of the lake. Better to stick to the track on the GPS. Then we crossed 6 times the rio, no difficulties. Scenic gorges after. Many puestos wirh dogs in the valleys but we met noone.
We checked the hot spring at 20.5, not really hot so we didn’t go in. We slept at camp 17.0, nice area, many cows.
Day 3: we hiked until pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], no difficult but very windy. Then we went down to the Pelehue Hot spring. Really nice to take a bath, really worth it!
We walked up to the " Hot Spring ?{11} [32.0/1428]" where we camped. There is a hot spring, à bit dirty but nice anyway. Rhere is an other hotspring at S 38° 07.328', W 071° 05.140' but not possible to camp.
Day 4: we climbed the pass and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route.
We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].
Day 5 : went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.
'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"
Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)
One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.
Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect
We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.
We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.
Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)
'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''
Day 1 March 2nd
The first two days were actually on GPT12 GPT11 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!
The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.