26
ediciones
Cambios
→Season 2025/26
'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''
Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:
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=== Connecting to Section 12 ===
[[Archivo:GPT 11 to 12.jpg|450px|right|Connections between GPT11 and GPT12]]
November 2024 [Tomáš]: There are a number of different ways to connect Sections 11 and 12. However, none of them have been proven to be faster than descending along the The regular route to the valley at 1400m is proven and regaining the elevation along the regular routeworks. There are a few optional routes that promise to be more direct Will alone and with less elevation gain, but as Tomáš and Natalie together found independently of April 2024each other almost identical traverse, based on that they liked [it is included in their suggestions in the trip reports below2024 Track files]. it is pure CC and the terain is not the easiest, but they appear to be very difficult and take longer than the regular routethink it is quite doable. There is one route option which appears to be unexplored, GPT11-04(and possibly 11-03). Please edit the pages of this text on both sections 11 and 12 if you have any updates.
=== Optional Routes ===
A popular and scenic option on GPT12 is to go via the ridge near Cerro Dedos, GPT11-02 and GPT11-02B (it is somewhat confusingly part of Section 11). This ridge hike can be extended by walking up to Cerro Dedos, via GPT11-04, where Condors may be spotted. In bad weather, avoid the ridge.
=== Piñones ===
Along this section are many opportunities to harvest piñones (in the right season), which can extend your hiking food supply. This can be a particularily useful resource if hiking in NOBO direction: bring enough food for GPT12, and supplement your diet with piñones to extend your supplies to last for GPT11 and onward. Be sure to bring lots of gas, since piñones need to be boiled for roughly 20 minutes.
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=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=
*'''2025-08-09: Track file update 2025 and investigation suggestions of Jan Dudeck'''
- Sadly, in March 2025 the hiker Tim Atkinson disappeared while hiking GPT12 in northbound direction. Several searches were conducted in April and May 2025 but Tim was not found. He was last seen near Kilometer 63 (-38.393870°, -71.022360°) hiking northbound (towards Kilometer 0). See also the Facebook post to Tim's disappearance.
Since none of the searches could locate Tim, an accident while hiking along the Regular Route seams less likely now. Possibly, Tim suffered a health issue while resting or camping in a more hidden location a bit off the trail. Therefore, all hikers that walk GPT12 are asked to keep their eyes open and scan for possible hidden camp sites a bit off the trail. Should someone spot a lone collapsed tent or other traces of Tim, then please record the precise location by GPS and report your observations to the Carabineros (Chilean Police) and Jose Herrera (+56998252577) who coordinated the search earlier in 2025.
- Regular Route: I rerouted the regular route between Kilometer 61 and 70 due to right-of-way conflicts in the upper valley Mitrauquen. This change bypasses several puestos where some hikers had been treated unpleasantly. I also rerouted the southern terminus near Liucura to avoid several new fences and gates. Now the final 2 km are on a minor road and a primary road.
- GPT12 Option 3D and 3E (Meseta de Malonehue): It would be useful when an experienced hiker investigates this connection that is not fully visible on satellite images. The Puesto {12-03D} [7.0/1789] makes it very likely that a trail in the forest connects this puesto with the road down in the valley but the forest hides this route on satellite images. If this route is good to walk and people along the route are not bothered by hikers then I consider rerouting the Regular Route once again to completely bypass the upper valley Mitrauquen.
==Season 2025/26==
* ''' GPT12 | 2026-01-17 to 2026-01-19 I 2 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Option 2 / 2a | Michaela '''
Day 1: I connected GPT11 with GPT12 via Option 1. I started GPT12 around 2 pm, after lunch at Pelehue Hot Spring. I did not bathe there; the water was milky, muddy, and only lukewarm, but the surroundings were very beautiful. At Baños Coyucos, there were many people with tents and horses (unfortunately, I arrived on a Saturday), so I decided to skip them. I camped here: -38.190587, -71.052715. The spot was not very flat, but it was somewhat hidden and next to water.
Day 2: I realized I did not have enough food to complete the section, so I decided to go to Lonquimay tomorrow via Option 2. I camped here: -38.354168, -71.16396, a very nice grassy spot next to the river.
Day 3: I crossed the river to follow Option 2a, then headed to Lolén to get a lift to Lonquimay from the main road. I was lucky: about 3 km before the main road, a bus to Lonquimay passed and I could hop on (around 13:20). In Lonquimay I stayed at a very nice place: Hostal Patagonia Norte 25.000 CLP per night including breakfast.
At the bus terminal in Lonquimay the gave me this information:
Busses to Licura: daily (not sure about weekends) at 15:00
Busses to Icalma: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 12:00 and 15:00
Attraction: 5/5, Difficulty: 3,5/5
'''GPT12,11,10/ 2026 Jan 8-12/ NOBO / Options 5G & 2 (12), 4 & 2B (12), 1C, 1, 2, 2A (10) / 5 days/ hiking / Bailey & Illiana'''
Important information
See my last entry for right of way issues for option 2A GPT10
Information for ferry on option 5G out of Lonquimay;
We were told by Fernando (operator)
- operates Monday to Friday 8:30 am -5:30 pm
- operates 8 am -10 am Saturday 4 pm -6 pm
- Doesn't run Sunday
- Government paid, Free
- Fernando typically takes lunch around 1 pm for an hour
- Fernando says you cross without the boat it's waist deep
Day 1
Option 5G - hitch to ferry out of Lonquimay
We took option 2 to connect to RR.
Camp 1 [33.9/1281] Launga Mariñanqui. Beautiful place, plenty of flat ground and sheltered, water from the lake. Meet a group of tourists on a horse riding trip
Day 2
Stopped at hot springs Banos Coyucos, pretty nice set up. Campground looks good here
Summited Cero Dedos via option 4 (Cumbre Cero Dedos). We were considering our options here but storm clouds were rolling in. Hiked down via option 2B hot springs, great set up. Connected back to RR and camped at hot springs on variant D with cow poo
Day 3
Continued along RR, connect to GPT10 via option 1C
Puesto {10-01C} [23.3/1260] very friendly
Camp with water, beautiful river nearby -37.99719, -71.1396
Day 4
As mentioned before, last water is at -37.97455, -71.13867
Next water is at -37.90611, -71.12002
Met a gaucho looking for lost goats (20)
Camped at Hot Spring {10-01} [15.1/1812] (Pucon Mahuida). Found some flatish spots, water wasn't that clear from glacier (clear stream close to the road), exposed
Day 5
Continued along GPT10 option 1
Found water along the way up
-37.871021, -71.202049 there's a glacier fed lake that has some nice camping spots
Summited Copahue via GPT10 option 2 (Cumbre Copahue)
Confirmed good water source at -37.83722, -71.20762
Continued on GPT10 2A and 1A to trapa trapa
We got picked up by two electricians on the road. They took us to a local house who feeds them breakfast every morning. They were so lovely, we paid 20,000 CLP per person for a bed inside, dinner and breakfast
https://maps.app.goo.gl/X4PX5hCK6UBuSucC8
Their numbers are
Jose Pedro & Celina Dina +56 984176548
'''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-08 / 3.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin Ankel'''
A general comment about section 12 is that it includes a lot of cross country hiking. Even when the track files say trail, it is often overgrown or barely visible. A demanding section to be sure, but one of the better ones.
I highly recommend a stop at Los Cuyucos (km 20). The hot spring was amazing. Note that there are two hot springs; one where the marker is, which is not very nice, and one much closer to the camp down by the stream. The second one is very nice and they have built a roof over it. Additionally, the campsite offers shade so it is possible to pitch the tent early without turning it into a sauna.
Leaving Los Cuyucos, there is an unmarked Puesto at S 38.208504° V 71.079601° with potential aggressive cows. Instead of running away from me they came towards me, and the big bull that was a bit further away started charging against me. It stopped when I started running seemingly content with exerting its dominance, demonstrating who is the boss. You just wait till I return with my red cape and sword.
At Lake Marinanqui, the northern side is filled with cows and their feces. The southern side, however, is perfectly still. Good place to take a bath I believe (I did not at the time).
Camp [51.6/1293] was a bit soggy and wet so I went down to Camp 12-E instead.
Regarding the mark “Water ? [54.3/1930] there were a few small pools left contaminated with bird feces. Much of the following lakes were also largely dried out, but there was some good water left.
Puestos [67.2/1822] and [75.3/1549] are destroyed. There is one unmarked puesto at S 38.461189° V 70.989133°.
Camp at [77/1750] was ok, but not great. The lake, Laguna Escondida, is slightly difficult to access, but the water is clear and reasonably warm. A bath is recommended.
At Puesto [78.5/1774] there were four extremely aggressive dogs that followed me for a long time, making several lunges at me, closing their mouths only 10-20 centimeters away from my legs. The inconsiderate owner saw the whole thing and made no attempt in recalling his attack dogs.
In Liucra I highly recommend staying at Hospedaje Normita (check google maps), a private room with two beds and bathroom for 15 000 CLP. The bus departs towards Victoria at 7:10, and if I understood correctly 16:00 every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. I changed buses in Lonquimay to go to Temuco from where I took another bus to Pucon. The whole journey took about 8 hours.
''' GPT11-12/2025-12-21 to 2025-12-25/4 days/SOBO/GPT11-RR/option 1/ GPT12-RR/Denis and Robert '''
We combined sections 11 and 12. In Guallalí we bought some food and had a lunch in Rominas place. Good resupply spot for next two sections. We had pretty windy weather and we connect 11 and 12 option 1. It wasn’t difficult, but no trail most of the time and loose terrain. We slept at Baños Coyucas, 34 degrees water, nice spot to camp. Before Liucura we needed to jump over few fences but we didn’t meet anyone. We stayed one night in Cabañas Garcia for 40 000 pesos for Cabaña for two people. We asked to wash our clothes and they were happy to do it for us, as well small shop straight next to the cabañas (same owner).
Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5
*''' 2025.15.12 to 2025.17.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt. 2 / Kris and Stiina'''
We combined sections 10, 11 and 12 via some options. Butalelbún to Lonquimay. 5 days in total. 2 days for the Section 10. 1 day for Section 11 and 2 days for Section 12. Originally we planned to hike all the way to Liucura but due to an ankle injury we had to change our plans and finish this section in Lonquimay via option 2.
(Continued from Section 11)
In the afternoon of day 3 we joined the GPT 12 RR around here -38.13160, -71.08637 and started ascending right away on the steep trail towards Cerro Dedos.
Camp Without Water {11} [32.5+0.7/1706] was actually a really nice spot by an abandoned puesto and I believe the water could be found in the gully to the west. Because when we crossed it higher up there was a small stream flowing in it.
On the first part of the ascent the weather did seem to be improving and we thought we had made the right call to continue the day and to go high up again. However the higher we got the more we realized it was actually a mistake and we should have called it a day and camped already by lunch lower down in the valley, oh well, hindsight 20/20.
The slivers of clear sky had disappeared and it was fully overcast and the very cold wind was blasting us once again. From around 2000m elevation it was again miserable and very cold. Which was a real shame because the surrounding area was just stunningly beautiful, but because of our mistake we couldn’t take time to fully enjoy it.
The Hot Spring {11-02B} [1.2/2113] (Banos de Pelehue) was actually a nice area with smoking ground some sheltered campsites made from stone walls and a one really nice looking pool with an old showel next to it to excavate it deeper.
Would be an epic campsite in good weather!
But for us the cold wind was so intense that we didn’t linger around for too long. And only after the termas the really cold part of the ascent started, we were wearing all of the clothes that we had while walking uphill quickly and we were still cold, the wind was numbingly cold.
And it was a long 4km gradual ascent which would have been a delight in good weather.
We had some views below the cloud level which was roughly at 2400m but it was way too intense cold to enjoy any of them, we just kept moving to not freeze to death.
The last km before the pass -38.14220, -71.02670 got to borderline extreme the wind was so strong it was pushing us around like ragdolls and the cold was unbearable. The only other time we had wind so strong on the trail was in Patagonia on GPT40 Paso Huemul but even then it wasn’t nearly as cold as it was now.
Anyway, getting over the pass and starting the descent was a relief, since the wind was coming from the west most of it stayed on the other side of the pass.
Our goal was to get to Camp {12} [20.4/1625] (Banos Coyucos) but when we already got to the Camp {12} [17.0/1794] we were pretty tired and decided to settle there for the night which was another mistake. Even though the forecast didn’t promise freezing temperatures at night it did drop below 0C and our tent and all surroundings got covered in frost at night, and it was very damp and cold location, we had a rough night.
Day 4 - Finally the sun and the warmth was back, hallelujah! We enjoyed a slow morning partially because it was just nice and warm that we hadn’t experienced what felt like in a while and partially because we were just mentally and physically, really tired.
Luckily it seemed like an easy and straightforward day terrain wise, which it was.
Because of the 3 cold days we had eaten more of our food than we should’ve which meant we would have to ration it to make it last until Liucura what for now was still the goal.
Termas/Baños Coyucos - was a really nice campsite with tables and fireplace and even a dry toilet that unfortunately was locked. The termas needed some work though, the hot water coming from the mountain was mixing with the cold river. The barrier separating the two had seemingly eroded and needed to be restored. There was also some sort of a wooden roof over the shallow pool, so potentially even good in rain.
Almost for the whole day yesterday and still today we saw footprints of two people going in the opposite direction which we could only assume were two other GPT hikers? We figured out that we had probably missed them by a few hours while having lunch on GPT 10 before joining the GPT11 since they probably took the RR there not the 1C.
Also it had been 3 days since we last saw another person but just before lunch we met an ariero going up the valley and a bit later we met 3 Chilean hikers coming from an overnight camp by Laguna Mariñanqui.
All the fords on Rio Pulul were very easy. Tabanos had returned but not with the same force they had before the cold spell was upon the area.
After the lunch Stiina’s ankle had started to show some signs of discomfort, initially we thought it’s just the shoe that needs adjustment but by the time we got to X {12} [44.9/1048] it was clear that the next two days to get to Liucura would be very tough with the ankle pain that she had developed. Additionally to that our food situation wasn’t looking great, if it was only for the food we would have continued but it was also the ankle. So for once probably a smart decision was made to not continue all the way to Liucura and to make an exit on Option 2 to Lonquimay. We would sleep on it and see if there were any improvements the following day.
We forded Rio Rahue -38.34630, -71.15760 which was an easy, shallow ford with a pleasant water temperature.
We camped here: -38.34625, -71.15846 under some tall araucarias.
Day 5 - Stiina’s ankle was still painful so we continued with our Plan B - Option 2 to Lonquimay. An easy walk past quite a few groups of our favorite animal the bloody cow. No scary encounters but we were followed by a few to make sure we leave.
About a km before the raft crossing of Rio BioBio a car of official Chilean Ministry of Agriculture workers were passing and offered us a ride to Lonquimay, perfect, what a luck!
What they did was, they stopped by the last house before the raft -38.40919, -71.24454 and summoned a guy who would operate the raft and take us all across. Not sure how that would work coming from the other direction. And I would say the river did look crossable a bit downstream from the raft. We didn’t really talk to any of the workers or the guy because we were sitting outside in the back of a truck.
We got to Lonquimay for lunch and after that took a bus to Temuco for some rest and recovery time. Next we are off to attempt sections 16-22.
For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures
''' Dec 09th 2025 – Dec 14th 2025/ 5.5 days / NOBO / Lonquimay 5G, Option 2, Option 3, RR / Matt&Linda '''
We combined GPT 12 - 09 going NOBO with resupplying in Guallalí and Trapa Trapa.
''' Important info ''': we tried to take the ferry Balsa Rahue on option 2 on a Tuesday going NOBO. We waited from 12:30pm – 3:30pm and no one arrived to operate the ferry. We asked at the homestead on the other side of the river once we hh/hiked our way around. We were told that “the sign needs to be updated, it is operating from 8:30 to 11 am, more or less.”
Day 1: we started at 8am just outside of Lonquimay and went into town for breakfast and to wait out a heavy rain storm. No Cafés/restaurants were open but we found a panadería La Cava that sold fresh delicious bread and let us sit down in their restaurant. Also access to outlets and bathrooms. HH on Option 5G to Option 2. As mentioned, waited for a several hours to no avail. HH back to Lonquimay on the same route and then further to Lolén with the intention to hike Option 4. Our driver was a local and he advised us to go up Option 2, though. Talked to the settlers here (S 38°24.709, W 71°14.202) who gave us the information about the ferry and offered us a place for the night. When we said we wanted to hike on a little bit more he let us pass through his land to connect faster to Option 2. Many good spots to camp by the river, camped here: S 38°24.546, W 71°12.965.
Day 2: we decided to take Option 3 to the Lagunas Mellizas. Absolutely beautiful, highly recommend! First bit off the MR is a bit tricky, the GPS track follows a fence on the left side which is a bit overgrown, no serious BB but we cut up our legs a bit. There is a homestead here: S 38°25.160, W71°10.987 that the GPS track avoids. After that, the trail becomes easier. Met a kind arriero higher up. More water along the trail than the GPS track indicates. Camped right at the Lagunas here: S 38°22.530, W 71°06.954
Day 3: we continued on Option 3. We think it would be possible to cross on that little land bridge that separates the lagunas if you want to avoid going down and up again to circle the lagunas. We haven’t explored it ourselves but it looks like there are animal tracks going through. We saw the path from here: S 38°22.190, W71° 06.489. The CC Section of Option 3 is beautiful. Going NOBO we advise to stay low here (S 38°21.494, W 71° 05.124) to pass the little lake right on the ridge and then pass on to the left side of the small ridge to reconnect with the RR. The CC section on the RR down into the valley was not enjoyable but the path through the valley was very beautiful! By accidentally passing Ford 12 [45.4/1039] we found a small bridge out of wood planks here (S 38° 20.911, W 71° 09.381). Slept at the Puesto 12-D [0.6/1073] which was closed.
Day 4: straight forward day, all puestos along the way were closed. Followed the RR to the Banos Coyucos at 12 [20.5/1613] and camped at the indicated campsite there. Fords were no problem. Highly recommend staying at the southern end of Laguna Marinanqui if you wanted to stay there, passed a couple of beautiful spots there to pitch a tent. We saw some tourists on horses leaving the hot springs, the campsite there is rather well set up. But the outhouse was locked. I wonder how busy it gets or if you have to pay? There was no one around when we arrived in the rain. The water wasn’t super clean but still great to soak in after a long, wet and cold day!
Day 5: the sky cleared up during the morning and we decided to continue on to the hot spring Banos de Pelehue 11-02B [1.2/2113]. The CC section was pretty easy, there was a visible pass to follow. We had to battle with a lot of wind on the passes though. Because of that we decided against hiking up Cerro Dedos. The views were amazing and seeing the fumaroles was stunning! Luckily, previous hikers had built stone circles as shelters from the wind here: S 38° 07.312, W 71° 03.544. Thank you so much!!! There were 3 of them; 2 big enough to fit a 2p-tent comfortably and maybe a small 3p-tent. 1 looked like it would only fit a 1p-tent. The water was incredibly hot but as indicated on the GPS they are “poorly maintained”. For us that looked like this: we could see constructions out of stone that were intended to form baths but they had filled up with silt. There was a shovel and we worked on digging out the silt for quite a while but to no avail. The water wouldn’t clear up for us. However, still a stunning place with incredible views!
Day 6: we continued on the RR on GPT 12 down into the valley and hopped right onto the RR of GPT 11 without going into Ránquil.
Difficulty: 3/5
Attractiveness 5/5
==Season 2024/25==
*''' 2025-03-31 to 2025-04-6 / 6.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Lonquimay 05G, 02, 03, 03C, RR, varA, 01 / Peggy
I started in Lonquimay by taking a microbus that leaves from the bus terminal at 1:30 pm and dropped me off at the junction (km15.5), then I continued on section 02 to take the ferry. It doesn’t operate on weekends. I arrived around 2:15 pm, and a man had me cross 30 minutes later. He showed up to cross himself with others in his car. I don’t know if he’s the official operator.
I stopped early and camped between the RR and section 03 (I forgot to note the exact point). There is a stream running through, and if you go up it a bit you can find good spots.
Day 2, I took section 03. Water at 38.411909, 071.190373W. Easy climb through the forest to the plateau. I chose to go along the small ridge between the GPX track on the right and a track visible on Locus on the left (OSM), to the Lagunas Mezillas where I filled up on water not knowing if I’d find more lower down. With the cold, I don’t sleep next to a lake. Also, it was windy and even more was forecast for the evening. So I went down to the plateau just below and found a good spot sheltered from the wind among the Araucarias. I was also able to make a fire (I don’t have gas, I started with a wood stove but for the past few weeks I’ve been making campfires for cooking and warmth. Sometimes in the morning too). I ended up finding water (38.372273S, 071.122479W).
Day 3, I went down via 03C, which is easy if you stick to the trail. Not being sure about 03C (steep and lots of bamboo), I first chose 03A but quickly switched to the right. The descent goes well mixing BB and CC, less steep and more open than 03C, except for the end with lots of shrubs. I followed cow paths and had to crawl for a few meters at one point! But it worked out!
I eventually stopped at the puesto km37.7, which is in poor condition but gave me shelter from the rain. Here I got weak internet signal via Entel. Water nearby but needs filtering (between RR and the puesto). Lots of space to camp (I chose a spot sheltered in the grove to minimize cold. Temperatures below freezing).
Day 4, I took the RR via the Mariñanqui lagoon. Between the water point at km37.4 and the ford at km36.6, there’s a short steep and slippery section. To avoid it, you can go higher where there are already horse and cow tracks. At the lagoon, I tried to avoid the marshes by skirting around the right side at the end of the lagoon. There’s a trail, but it becomes more and more uncertain and I ended up crossing the marsh anyway. Beautiful forest crossing, easy fords but very cold water in April. In the evening, I reached the Baños Coyucos. I found the water lukewarm but nice for a basic wash. There is a place to camp, but I preferred to cross the stream at the baños and set up a bit further away on the other side. Gorgeous view of the valley. I set up behind bamboo as the wind was already strong and was forecast to increase during the night (I check the wind with my Garmin to know the speed and direction to set up my tent properly, especially when a cold night is coming – I’ve had my tent damaged by wind before). Bad surprise that evening: I had forgotten my tent stakes at the previous camp… Fortunately, I was surrounded by bamboo which worked perfectly for the night (and thankfully I had pitched my tent well because the wind was indeed strong that night).
Day 5, back to the puesto km37.7 where I had left my stakes… Same route as the day before, but with more wind! However, I was facing the right direction to charge my solar battery on my pack.
Day 6, same path as the two previous days except that I chose to take variant A, which avoids the Mariñanqui lagoon and goes through the upper part. It seems to be preferred by arrieros as it is well marked by horses (and cows). The view is beautiful over the mountains, especially in the second part. Water at (38.272804S, 071.111205W). A bit after that, the trail goes up a bit along a small stream (a bit tricky). Then here (38.244753S, 071.082081W) there’s a small river to cross (so water), and a small puesto that can be used in case of problem or bad weather. Here, I again met two arrieros I had seen two days earlier. Very friendly. Arrived back on the RR, in the valley of the puestos, I followed section 01 aiming to buy food at one of the puestos but they were all already closed… Luckily, I found someone and managed to get food at the last one (which doesn’t appear on the map, to the right of the ford km22.1). Thanks to Jaime. I slept above the ford.
Day 7, on the way to the Baños de Pelehue, I met a kind Chilean hiking couple (only the second time in 3 months). Then the Cerros Dedos (see section 11).
At this time of year, there are lots of piñones on the ground. I cook them on the fire in water in two rounds. They usually require several hours to cook (at this time of year, as they are already hard). So I experimented and found that two rounds of cooking works. I cook on the fire, so in the evening and in the morning if I make a fire, or on two consecutive evenings. The shell should open, at least most of them. Each time 30–40 min or more after it starts boiling. A technique shared by an arriero to make them cook faster (a Mapuche technique I was told): roast them a bit before putting them into boiling water. I haven’t noticed a difference yet, but I don’t have enough experience.
*''' 2025-03-01 to 2025-03-05 / 5 days (combined GPT 12 + 11)/ Hiking / NOBO /OH 02 + RR/ Chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Temuco to Lonquimay then we hitchhiked up to the camping Lolen (nice camping 8000p per person). We had to start from there because the ferry of option 2 is not working on weekends.
Day 1: we walked along the Ruta R 893 to join the option 2 after the Rio Biobio crossing. We continued on the gravel road of the OH02 until we join RR at km 44.9. There is a ford not mentioned just before but easy to cross.
The route in the valley of puesto [37.7+0.2/1367] is not always easy to follow so we kept looking at the GPS.
Camped at Laguna Mariñanqui.
Day 2 : we walked along the lake. Then we struggled to find our way in the wetlands at the north of the lake. Better to stick to the track on the GPS. Then we crossed 6 times the rio, no difficulties. Scenic gorges after. Many puestos wirh dogs in the valleys but we met noone.
We checked the hot spring at 20.5, not really hot so we didn’t go in. We slept at camp 17.0, nice area, many cows.
Day 3: we hiked until pass {11-04} [5.4/2385], no difficult but very windy. Then we went down to the Pelehue Hot spring. Really nice to take a bath, really worth it!
We walked up to the " Hot Spring ?{11} [32.0/1428]" where we camped. There is a hot spring, à bit dirty but nice anyway. Rhere is an other hotspring at S 38° 07.328', W 071° 05.140' but not possible to camp.
Day 4: we climbed the pass and for that we stayed in the bed river all along of the CC part. A bit long but not difficult when you stick to this route.
We went down to the Camp {11} [20.6/1317].
Day 5 : went straight to Guallalli and slept at Rominàs house. Took the bus next day to Los Àngeles at 5:30PM.
'''2025-02-20 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, / Adrien, Julien et Valentin"
Bus from Lonquimay to Liucura at 7:30 pm on Wednesday
We slept in the barn of Cabana Garcias for 5000 pesos (mention that you have a tent)
One hour after the pass with the famous big Araucaria at the first descent you will encounter a puesto with a meadow and a fence. Instead of crossing it, go along the barrier to the end, the magnificent cliffs overlooked by the araucaria on the right. Then cross the bush until you find the RR. Very easy and very beautiful. It allows you to avoid the mean dogs on the other side of the meadow.
Lots of araucaria seeds on the ground even though they were probably the last ones. 30 minutes to 1 hour of cooking. oil and salt and it's perfect
We had an argument with an Arriero who asked us for money to pass, well after Maximilliano, 6 kilometers before the Marinanqui lake but by telling him that we had authorization from the carabineros (which was not true) and from two other Gauchos we met beforehand, he ended up letting us pass.
We didn't do the last part of the cerro dedo because of pain of one of us and we cut to Ranquil from the terms, easy to Hitchhike the weekend. but the last part is apparently not to be missed.
Hitchhiking to Lonquimay (only the weekend cause of the Termas)
'''2025-02-14 to 2025-02-17 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR, Var H, Cerro Dedos ascent / Manon, Robin and Thomas'''
Resume :
- spectacular views concentrated in Cerro Dedos area and we really appreciated the section only from laguna Marinanqui
- before laguna Marinanqui : views from pass 57,2 and araucarias are great but dogs, dust and valley floor long path are a little bit tiring > If you don't need GPT 13 thru-hike connection, we highly recommand to consider option 2 or 4 to shorten south part of the section.
- tabanos situation is currently resolved
Day 1 afternoon : Liucura 104,3 > Water 87,6
Started at 15:30, we took variants P and S at the beginning to avoid barbed wire climbing (still one). We took water at puesto around 94,5 and we camped at the first water point (dusty and without sunset).
Day 2 : Water 87,6 > Pass 57,2
Doggy puesto day ! We took option H to avoid aggressive dogs which seem to be on the RR, but we had some anyway (without incident). Highlight of the day : we harvested and cooked our first pinones ! We camped at -38,360985 -71,054676 near great sunset views on Volcanos.
Day 3 : Pass 57,2 > Banos Cuyucos 20,5
Long day to reach hot spring aperitif and dinner, following RR. Laguna Marinanqui and following gorges are very scenic, banos cuyucos are great for 3 people.
Day 4 : Banos Cuyucos 20,5 > Cerro Dedos ascent > Banos de Pelehue (11-02B [1.2/2113])
Pleasure day with stunning views without long distance. The Pelehue hotsprings are really nice : 180° view, sunset, water temperature control (!), fumaroles,...
We continued with GPT 11 RR next morning, with the desire to to follow Natalie and Tomas new connection to section 10 close to argentina border (GPT 11 option 6 + GPT 10 option 3).
'''2025-02-12 to 2025-02-17 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1+RR+Option 2a / Chris & Diana'''
We had arranged with Maximiliano and Ana a pickup late at 9pm from Lonquimay, stayed at their house and were driven to the bus/police station the next morning. They offered 50kCLP for both drives, night in tent, some dinner & breakfast, 70kCLP if we wanted to stay indoor. We accepted tent option but after a fun & long dinner & tea, they invited us to the cabana nontheless. They are a super lovely couple, we had a lot of fun together :)
They operate a shop with everything a hiker needs (food, gas, even some clothes, but not too suitable but might be nice in emergencies) for fair prices.
A bit more info in Lonquimay:
Levanderia lonquimay
+56971265059
Histal Villa portales 32kCLP for 2 persons in a double bed (shared bedroom of 3 spots, cold water only)
Uber lonquimay
+56965791711,
+56982471202,
+56941761164,
+56974846335
Sweet little town, nice supermarkets, restaurants, even some small local giftshops at the main square/park.
Bus towards trail from lonquimay: monday, wednesday, friday at 05:30 and 15:00
From trail to lonquimay (via ranquil): monday, wednesday, friday 06:00/06:30, 16:00
Disclaimer: check our route, we only hiked 40% of the RR, therefore only valid for that bit!
Option 01: mostly rather boring MR/track, little descent into the valley. Easy and quick hike though.
RR:
Fords: all easy, last hour to the lake is full of fords we werent able to cross dry feet. Nothing above knee, no significant current.
Water: plenty along the way.
Snow: none.
Hotsprings: surprisingly they werent mentioned often in here. They are fairly nice, there are two, the one under the araucaria tree is the hotter and nicer one, fresh water better taken upstream of the other "first" one. The hotspring is populated a lot on the weekends, friday had a few dayhikers, the nights we enjoyed alone. People in the valley were super nice, explaining us a better way through the swamp.
Laguna mariñanqui was amazing to camp and bath in as well, lots of parrots swarming the skies and lots of piñones around adding a feast!
Option 02a:
Camped at S 38.364003 W 071.166101. Seemed like last obvious spot before Track & Puestos start. Some appletrees along the way.
We hitchhiked most of option 2 out to Lonquimay, it might be possible to Uber (see above) along here for NOBO folks who wanna cut it a bit short without missing the hotsprings and the pretty pass. We think we didnt see any bus houses/indication of public transport.
Track until approx S 38.382561 W 071.172255 (easy with 4x4, normal car might be a bit difficult)
MR until Ferry 12-02 [13.5], easy with normal car. Rather boring to walk.
Summary: nice and easy walk, not crazy scenic, but some pretty views in between. Piñones made it very special, they just started to fall from the sky, enhanced our couscous alot! More than any could gather.
Partly pretty dusty. Since its mostly along rivers, we always were able to get a bath.
* '''2025-02-03 to 2025-02-07 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01+RR+Var H+RR+VarN+VarP / Dorota Szparaga'''
Day 1: I arrived from Lonquimay by micro at 5 p.m. and started from OH 1. Night at pass 4.6/1499.
Day 2: Day of fords but fortunately easy for my 1.64 height.
In valley after pass a lot of cows, goats. Two dogs but only barking.
Ford 7.5 - in exact point water above knee. I went a few meters upstream where water is lower.
Ford 28.7 till calf.
Fords Rio Pulul from 31.3 to 33.6 max to knee, but there were more than points in track.
Ford 35.4 dry feet.
Ford 36.6 dry feet.
Ford 41.5 dry feet.
Ford 45.5 above knee, current a bit strong.
Camp at 47.5.
Day 3 :
Ascent from 52 to 53 was very exhausting.
Camp at 57 before pass. Beautiful spot but strong wind. Water from lake.
Day 4:
Passes 57.2 and 57.4 free of snow. Part between 59 and 60 moody. I have met arrieros at camp 59.5 km. From km 62.4/62.9 I took varH and came back at km 68 of RR . In the next valley I have met a group of Mapuches. They were very reserved. I said hello and asked for the trail and said what I am doing here. Before puesto de Maxymiliano Lagos (71.4) the path is almost free of fallen trees after a tornado in November. I have bought fresh "tortilla" et Maksymiliano "puesto". Camp at Laguna Escondida at 76.2. I think that a better camp is on the other side.
Day 5:
At km 88 of RR I took varN than P till Liucura. Mostly MR. A lot of gates between puestos. At km 4.0/1314 settler (12-P) I advise taking the road not the track. I have met here one dog and need to cross under gates. After only some gates. In Liucura night at Hospedaje Normita. Very comfortable cabana for 20.000 clp. A lot of shops. I advise at point -38.64533,-71.08847. They have gas, chargers, cables and a lot of food.
* ''' 2025-JAN-11 to 2025-JAN-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 12H / Alex '''
Cerro Los Dedos offers the best views along this section. Many puestos along the route were occupied, often with numerous dogs.Be prepared for swampy areas throughout the section. I recommend adopting Option 12H as the regular route due to its advantages.
At Camp {12-H} [1.5/1520], I arrived around 7 PM but found it unsuitable due to its location opposite a house and visibility from the road.
I continued up the steep climb and discovered a short side trail to the left after 20 minutes. This led to an untouched forest with sheltered campsites just 70 meters from fresh running water.
This is the best campsite in the entire section: no tabanos , no mosquitoes.
I have attached a GPX file for this new campsite here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1G_nxx9NlRwpGVU_mvsp5RAYcwNFEy9tL/view?usp=sharing
The final 2 kilometers of Section 12 should be updated. The regular route trespasses through 3–4 private properties with barbed wire.
I followed RR-TL-V {12} [100.0/100.4+2.2] directly to the highway instead.
* ''' 2024-DEC-26 > 29 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR (option est au Laguna Mariñanqui) + passage flan est a la fin / Pierre-Marie '''
Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : hors piste sur pente raide, glissement de terrain, foret détruite
A 2100m a la premiere montée, ce ne sont pas des sources chaudes mais des sources de gaz qui font bouillir ce qui se trouve autour.
Par contre au point (38.190017° S 71.036036° W) il y a une source chaude que les locaux ont amenagée en piscine (l'eau est ferrugineuse). Les arrieros m'en ont parlé donc elle est accessible a tout le monde.
Dans la vallée du Cerro Rahue la piste n'est vraiment pas facile a suivre mais grâce a la trace GPS on la retrouve toujours. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement, et sur le plateau a 2000m, c'est envahi de moustiques.
La montée en hors piste n'est pas une cinécure, vraiment dommage qu'il n'y ai pas de sentier car elle est dangereuse par mauvais temps. Premiere et seule journée nuageuse. La descente sous le Cerro Codihue se fait bien mais attention: 1) un gros éboulement a recouvert le sentier, et de la neige se trouve sous les roches. Ca forme des ponts qui sont tres dangereux. 2) une tornade a balayé la forêt. Elle est impossible a traverser mais facile a contourner en longeant le torrent.
Juste apres la foret, Maximiliano Lagos m'a très bien reçu malgré mon faible niveau d'espagnol.
Juste après le Laguna Escondida, Sonia Ramirez m'a bien accueilli également, j'ai pu assister a une capture de chevaux (pour castration).
A Liucura j'ai pu acheter un peu de nourriture mais le magasin n'a quasiment rien.
* ''' 24-12-15 - 24-12-19 / 4,5 days / SOBO / OH01, RR, OH-H\L\M\K / Volker '''
The Tabano section (first part only)
All water markers reliable - and many other spots, fords mostly easy
Day 1: Back in Ranquil after resupply in Lonquimay. The very friendly women from the Local Crafts Centre organised me a driver for 30k, which was really fair for a 1,5h ride. Started at 3 p.m., short walk on OH01 (well, I missed the hot spring on RR) over a pass, then down into the very beautiful valley. Camped after the ford OH1, 7,5, which was less easy than it seemed. The water is very deep, where it runs slowly, you have to cross the river there, where the stream is strong.
Day 2: An extraordinary beautiful valley, but… a terrible Tabano situation. Not 3-4 surrounded me as sometimes on previous sections, but 10-15 at all times. Worst at the northern bank of Laguna Marinanqui. Swimming? Forget it. All those, who are into survival, will find a rich meal. Haute Cuisine: the Tabanos attacking you, while you are focused on one of the several fords (all easy). All others think twice, before taking a photo and ending up with 5 of them on each of your hand . My moskito head net was an essential gear, but I wished I had brought a beekeeper’s suit. And who wants to hike a day long veiled like a woman under Taliban rule? Camp at 17,0 completely „polluted“, I continued 1 km to the „pass“, where I found a dusty mini-spot (great view, however).
Day 3: Tabano situation unchanched during the whole CC upwards. I walked at an altitude of 2100 on snowfields, surrounded by ten of them. Tried hard to have a look for the really scenic landscape. After the pass it got immediately better. It was like a water shed. What a relief! CC down easy, the following „trail“, however, was no trail, but a swamp (all indicated camp spots under water), and now I had to stick closely to the track file, otherwise I would have ended up in BB. After the swamp-trail, CC in the forest, the former trail is mostly invisible and blocked by broken trees. Got better with the MR (which is a TL). Down in the very beautiful valley, everything changed: No tabanos at all, no aggressive dogs or humans (waypoints), but a wonderful indicated camp spot at 1,5 of OH-H.
Day 4: No tabanos, not a single one! Very quick on OH-H to the pass, short parts overgrown, the „CC“ down along Rio Pehuenco on RR has mostly a good trail, only short tricky sections with snow and mud in the gullies. Three aggressive dogs running in my direction at the puesto at 71,4. . Show them, who is the master! When I started to shout at them and move in their direction, their self-confidence imploded. Laguna Escondida very beautiful, marked camp spot at 76,2 under water.
Very, very scenic up to the next pass and down to Laguna Verde. The marked camp spot on the north bank under water, too. Camped at the south bank close to a small puesto.
Day 5: From Laguna Verde options L, M, K, highly recommended, very scenic on the plateau. Water running from a pipe close to the two houses where RR leaves the MR (OH -T) for the ridge. On the ridge again very scenic, CC easy (partly trail), but stick to the track files, otherwise BB is on the menu. Very windy in the last part. Had to climb 4 fences with barbed wire on the last 2 km to Liucura (can probably be avoided by taking OH-S to join OH-P), where I arrived at 3 p.m. (several lodges, nice hut in Calle Nueva Dos on the right side (20k), Bus to Victoria at 7 a.m. , but not on every day of the week.
* '''11Dec2024 - 15dec2024 / hiking SOBO / option 1 - RR - varE - RR - var H - RR - var L - RR / 5 days / Clara'''
Really nice landscapes all along with mountains, volcanoes on the passes. Araucaria forests. Lakes that are nice and good spots to eat/camp.
Camp : south of laguna mariñanqui 35.5. Meet a couple of GPT hikers there, good evening even if there were lots of tamaños and mosquitoes.
varE (around51) camp at end : nice with good water. Mosquitoes. Looks more comfortable than the one note at 51.6 on RR.
VarH camp 1.5 : not much place for a tent in dry area but was ok.
83km VarL : end of laguna verde. Nice dry spot. Mosquitoes. (Could rejoin RR directly here the next day)
Fords : between 31 and 34. All went good, not much than mid thighs (I'm 1,57), low current (hot and dry during the last week).
45 : mid thighs with little current at midday
Option 1 : nice and easy way up.
Navigation :
Laguna mariñanqui : var C and even some parts of RR are just under water or muddy +++. To lenght the est side of the lake I took some nice paths (there are many) that are higher up and avoid putting feet in the lake and mud between (around the middle, don't see at the beginnig and end of the lake).
After varE path became less clear and it's more demanding to not loose it in high herbs but could follow one almost alle the time.
CC around km53 : easy to find the route. Physical. Need to be carefull in soft sand because rocks and even the grass can detached and fall.
Passes around 57 : not much snow, easy to cross and navigate. Entel coverage a bit before 1st pass (57-57.4) if need a little weather forecast point.
Descending from the pass is steep but easy with little patches of snow.
When CC finish around 58 : very muddy trail. Navigation a bit harder when you enter the forest and then the route is easy.
VarH to avoid the dog : after the camp, steep clim but trail easy to follow. Only a bit before puesto 3.1, about 0.5km path get less clear with a bit BB. Need more GPS.
Pass at 68 : easy, not much snow. Rejoin RR by varJ cause then varH was going BB.
All CC until Liucura are horse (or goat) paths most of the time, easy to follow and when there is doubt, the tracks or OSM path bring to good path to go on.
At the really end there are 3 or 4 fences to cross that I found difficult and really not made for crossing here. Maybe it's a bit better with varS but still 2 to cross. Or maybe it's better to go directly straight down to the road and not turning left when descending on the dirt road but I didn't try.
Water : plenty except at the end. I think last on RR is water 87,6. Maybe it's possible if needed to ask some in the houses around 94 before going up to the ridge cause after there is none for sure.
* '''2024-Dec-08 to 2024-Dec-13 / 6 days / Hiking NOBO / RR + variant H / Sean & Neele'''
Water present at all markers and plenty more due to snow melt
We took variant H to avoid the aggressive dogs, was a little overgrown and lots of different trails to choose from but was fine.
Pass at 57.4km - snow present from around 1,850m and upwards but you can avoid most of it. The plateau also has snow but again is mostly avoidable. Entel signal on the pass.
Camp 54.5 - horseflies started.
We camped at 51.6km the ground is pretty wet at the moment so wasn't great. We would have continued to 47.5km in hindsight as the trail is decent so it wouldn't take long.
Ford 45.4km crossed at 11 am about thigh deep (1.61m tall) no problem at all.
Water 41.4km - Entel signal.
Camped at the southern end of Lake Mariñanqui where we met Clara :) it was very beautiful, some horseflies though. Would not recommend northern end of the lake at this time.
Tried to take variant C but it was too deep so went around on RR.
Fords 33.6km - 31.4km we did these in the morning and were surprised how deep they were. The water is quite calm though so was all fine.
Hotsprings 20.5km lower one is a nice temperature easily big enough to sit in. Worth a look. The 1st one wasn't as warm.
High section between 15km and 9km. Snow patches present above 1850m ish. Was all either avoidable or manageable. Staying close to the RR worked well. This strech was very very beautiful and should t be missed.
Hot spring 11-02B warm not hot but very nice views
Hot spring 11-01C buried under snow.
Continued on to 11.
==Season 2023/24==
*'''2024-abril-7 to 2024-ab-11 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Option 5 - option 2 - RR / Juliet and Martin '''
We combined this section with section 11.
Morning ascent. The view is incredible but it's extremely windy. When we passed, there were many gusts of wind, which complicated our walk. But the view is still breathtaking! There's little water on this "plateau". We made our way back down to Ranquil. When we got there, there was nothing but the bus stop. We didn't meet anyone.
*'''2024-Mar-20 to 2024-Mar-24 / 4 days ? / SOBO / RR/ Tobi + Fangwen'''
Combined with Sections 10/11. Not much to add, except that there's almost everyday a low-ish hanging arucaria tree en route (late-season)
This was enough food for 2 people for approx. one full day
* '''2024-03-14 to 2024-03-16 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // beginning of VAR A + VAR F + RR // Quentin Clavel'''
Stunning section with great views and amazing rocks formation. The geology on this section really surprised me on some parts ! A lot of CC, and ups and downs threw pass, then going along valley then passing a new pass and cc a new valley etc..
Then I've been straight to GPT11, without going to Ranquil
*'''2024-Mar-13 to 2024-Mar-16 / 3 days / SOBO / RR C 02A 02 (11-05G)/ Matthias de Austria'''
Plenty of water, no snowfields, no Tabanos or Moskitos, all fordings very easy except Rio BioBio. The ferry on option 02 does not run on weekends, so I forded the river around 200m upstream. It is a long ford, but not very hard. Water around kneedeep (i am 187cm, 100kg) and 1-2m in the middle had a bit strong current, but not difficult. The ford is probably not possible earlier in the seasion, also they had a drought for months...
Northern parts of GPT12 are quite nice. Option 02 is long and boring with lots of road walking. Shortly west of the ferry it is a big asphalt street, but very little traffic. Took awhile to get a ride to Lonquimay.
*'''2024-Mar 2nd to Mar 13th / 12 days / Hiking / SOBO / GPT11 Var F, RR, Var Q, Var P / Michael and Kasia'''
TL:DR a really beautiful and varied section. The RR up to the plateau is challenging but not terrible; we liked Laguna Escondida for camping; the ridge at the end is not a good option if the winds are strong.
Day 1 March 2nd
The first two days were actually on GPT12 GPT11 Var F which we used to connect into GPT12. In Lonquimay a guy working for CONAF as a driver taking firefighters to and from Troyo offered us a ride. What luck! He was very friendly and pointed things out during the drive. He left us at the crossroads of the road to Troyo and Ranquil and even gave us a bottle of water and a bottle of Gatorade. A big thanks to him!
The road to Ranquil had many, many water points along the way. It's crazy how much water is in that area. It is a dirt road and dusty, but few cars came by, so it wasn't too bad. There is barbed wire fencing along much of the road. There were some helicopters running water in the distance to fight the fires. We arrived at Ranquil and found a place to camp at (-38.24902, -71.23244) just over the bridge. Then we went to the minimarket run by Maximiliano and Anna’s shop. They were incredibly kind people. They offered for us to camp on their property, offered to let us take a shower and wash clothes. They are definitely people to stop in and say hello to. They have gas now. 3.000 for refill canisters, 7.000 for 230g stove tanks and 9.000 for 460g stove tanks. They also had canned fish, powdered soups, mate, Nescafé, cold drinks, and Anna made us delicious pan amasado in her wood fired clay oven.
We Arrived in Liucura around 19:00. We stayed at Normita, going rate 15.000 pp, private room, private bath, hot water, and a small kitchen area. Norma is very nice. There are a few shops in town. The big shop closes around 19:30. They have a decent selection and the best prices generally. Donde Carlitos minimarket near aduana had gas recharges for 2600 each. They also have a decent selection of things for resupply and are reasonably priced. Across the street from the big shop there is a woman that sells bread, look for the signs in the window. She is open till around 19:00.
*'''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH11-02B + OH11-02 + OH12-C + OH12-N / Joscha'''
I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.
Water at km 87.7 is the last water SOBO. There is a barbed wire fence around km 102.2. There is no easy way to climb over it. Therefore I continued in south western direction until the Ruta 181.
*'''2024-Feb-05 to 2024-Feb-10 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Liucura - Section 11 on RR / RR / Alex & Christophe'''
We really think this section is nice NOBO as it gets more and more interesting as you walk on it.
Another thing to mention was that, because we didn't really know if we wanted to choose an option to connect section 11, we took option 4 until Pass {11-04} [5.4/2385]. The view there it just magnificent and there was some condors flying just over our head. I would really recommend taking this small detour, especially if going NOBO as the path is quite easy. (Maybe more demanding SOBO).
*'''2024 Jan 22 to 2024 Jan 27 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH11-02B+OH11-02 / Hannes'''
Start in Ranquil/Pelehue at Carabineros late afternoon, camped below ascent to the baños Pelehue. Reccomend the ascent in the early morning, as always much easier to climb before the heat comes in. Actually I figured out only fumaroles and no real baños up there, but I didn't look very carefully, wanted to head on. Took detour over OH11-02B and 02 along the ridge, which I reccomend strongly! Amazing views from this border-ridge and some interesting rock formations along there. Went down to the next valley and to baños Coyucos, loved this place, for me best termas so far. Even a nice camp place there. But it was still early afternoon, so I went on and camped at -38.203837 -71.077937. Next day I went to Laguna Marinanqui, nice lake, access to water muddy at north shore, south shore better to go in. Went on along this long next valley on a west slope trail, super hot! Camped at km 47,5, loved this place, flat area with special rock hill, mosquito zone, they take over when tábanos finish the day. Third day I went up the pass, super views all over from there! Down to the next valley, had to stick accurately to the GPS, as the TL is easy to loose where the bushes start and then you end up in some swampy zones, as it happens to me a few times. Lot of water around there. Crossed the valley, went up the other side. Passed puesto around km 64, no life there, no dogs. Seems abandoned this season, as I am not the first this year to pass by without seeing anybody. Walked on to the next pass, afternoon, again super hot, west-slope. Camped soon after the pass at -38.429390 -71.001130. 4th day I met Maximiliano in the early morning, little small talk, then I went on. Seems a nice guy. Went on to the two lagunas, wanted to do OH 12K, but looking to the access of the ridge I thought it can not be done, at least not with a heavy backpack...so I went on RR. Took water at km 87,6, no more running water till km 92. Nice views from the plateau to the southern volcanoes! Goats and horses up there. Camped at -38.578315 -W71.038569, around km 92, last water on RR till around Liucura! Next day over the ridge enjoying very much the views! Descending to Liucura on RR you have to cross around three to four barbed wire fences.
Overall the most tábanos I ever had on a GPT section, but GPT12 still one of my favourite sections so far!
*'''2024-01-13/22 / 7 + 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (sections 12 & 11) / Coline'''
I hiked GPT12 and 11 in a raw, so to reach the Pelehue hotsprings instead of going to Troyo for resupplying. This ten-days trail was really a great experience ! Sometimes terrifying, but not dangerous – as said in another post.
As for the resupplying, I don't know about Troyo, but the only shop in Guallalí is very small (no bottle of gas or tobacco for sure). The woman who manages it is very nice though : she indicated me that a bus (with more food) would pass at 8 p.m, she invited me to charge my bateries at her place, let me have a nap, while she prepared me a delicious dish ! I had nice time with the younger kid, and even spend the night there at the end.
*'''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-11 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {12-01} - RR - {12-C} - RR - {12-H} - RR - {12-N} - {12-P} / Lilian'''
I connected GPT11 and GPT12, so i start at {12-01}.
Also 1 restaurant, 1 cafe and 4 shops nearby, i think you can have a full resupply here.
* '''2023 12-27 to 2024 1-03 / 7 short days and one hour/ hiking / mainly RR / Sobo / Edwin'''
Took the easy option from Ranquil to baños de Coyuco by Oh-12-01. The baños are really nice. After that the regular route until Laguna Verde after which a suspect knee made me stick to trails and minor roads. An enjoyable trek! Some snow at higher altitudes.
If you want to skip section 13... The bus to Icalma passes through Liucura around 12:30 - 13:00 Monday/Wednesday/Friday
* '''2023 17 - 20 dec / 4 days / hiking / option 12-04, H, RR / SOBO / Frans'''
Started on a Sunday and it wasn't clear to me if the ferry (12-02G) would be up and running. No one in Lonquimay could guarantee me this. Because of Sunday and also because this day Chileans had to vote for the constitution. So I decided to walk the 181 and join the GPT12 on 12-04End. Nice walk, plenty of traffic to hitchhike, although I decided to walk. The minimarket at camping Lolén (100m before 12-04End) was closed, Sunday or voting? Was there around 11am. It looked up and running and not abonded or something. Just a closed sign. First house after the bridge sold eggs and honey, I bought some honey from Luis, super friendly guy. The walk was nice after that, although the road was fenced on both sides until km 16-ish. No campsites or minimarkets. I ended up campung at 12-03End, pretty long stretch so next time I would definitely hitchhike the 181.
All combined, really nice section especially the final part. Water not a problem, until you go up the plateau and ridge.
* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Jens (together with Nolwenn and Yannick)'''
To get to Liucura, take a bus from the Rural Terminal in Temuco to Lonquimay (departure 10 am) and from there another bus (3 pm).
It had snowed overnight and so we decided not to make the crossing over the pass on RR, but to take the alternative route to the start of Section 11.
* '''2023-Nov-28 to 2023-Dec -02 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant P + variant Q + variant H + option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn '''
- Water : all markers are good and even more water present
- Overall : beautiful section, still a lot of snow from 1700m
* '''2023-Nov-23 to 2023-Nov-27 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / Regular Route and Option 3 to return to Lonquimay / Ana & William'''
We just finished part of 12 and overall it is a lovely hike though we might potentially be a bit too early in the season depending on your risk threshold.
==Season 2022/23==
* '''2023-Jan / Martin&Helena'''
On regular route (SOBO) after puesto at 62.9, there is another puesto after approx 1km. It’s situated right on the road, soon after start of CC and before Gpt12-G End and it’s guarded by 4 or 5 agressive dogs. It was impossible to go around, so we were continuing with our trekking poles in front of us but dogs started to attack us and in the end I was bitten by one of them. The owner was there too but basically did nothing and dogs were absolutely out of her control.
* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''
Arrived in Liucura late in the 28th Feb afternoon by hitchhiking our way from Lonquimay. There is also a bus that leaves at 7:30 PM. We shared our plans with the carabineros and asked for a place to pitch and he sent us near the river, after the truck "parking" (-38.64806, -71.08856 - really nixe and private spot). There are 3 shops in Liucura with supplies and we even had a nice diner for 6k each at the Hospedaje.
On a side note, on most of the section, you will walk on well marked trails that are easy to follow. It contains multiple extremely scenics moments, at least one highlight per day (several for the last one). Definitely worth it to hike! There are no more tabanos at this period of the year, but indeed many wasps !
*'''2023-Feb-12 to 2023-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Natalie+Tomàš'''
Combined 10+11+12 , continued mid-day from 11.
Started mid-day at Banos de Pelehue, Tomáš explored the banos, there was a pool that had some cold water flowing to it, which is diverted, so the temperature should be nicely warm. However, it resulted in smelly hands for two days despite soap. The first hot springs waypoint is wrong but the location is very scenic. We continued to Banos Coyucos for the night and luckily arrived just before a storm hit.
The Banos Coyucos were not "great". The first one with the A-frame roof is not that warm, more like stale bathwater, but the second further down with only a partial roof is much better. We spent the stormy night in the second one , so more heat would have been nice , but I am sure it's a good temperature for day time bathing.
Day2
Day3
Fast and lovely trail to camp51.6. After then and up the steep grass hill it is CC. I wouldn't rely on the GPX here as it i is basically just straight up. The last water source before the hill 52.2 makes a nice rest. Just to clarify once again, there is no water at the first plateau; camp54.5. However, the water at the small lakes on the main plateau did not look awful, just goose poo around.
Up and over the main/last pass is straightforward but the other side is still boggy. The first camp was not good but if you walked up the bog directly on top of it there was a source of clean water. We slept at the second camp; 59.5, which felt the best of all three, there was water, a little muddy but the third camp looked dry.
Day4.
You can make a small short cut on a wide "road-trail" just before the RR turns off from the main trail towards puesto 61.8[Nov 2024: included in our suggestions]. Crossing the bottom valley here is still very boggy. The lady at puesto 62.9 was very welcoming, offering food/chocolate/coffee. She had some angry dogs but they behaved well once she called them. The next puesto up from her had the dogs that bit a past GPT hiker. They were indeed the aggressive type but the lady tied the worst one up in order to let us pass. If she hadn't we were going to skirt around on the right into the forest to hopefully avoid them and or you could descent descend back down the hill and go far left.Like Veronica said there is some water at -38.41178, -70.99125, not tasty but not filtering it had no consequences. At the intersection of RR and J , I met some friendly carabinieros that were going into Argentina to fetch some Chilean horses, they were taking on a good trail. From the water source I just described and towards Maximiliano's puesto I did not enjoy the trail, didn't make much sense and felt I was zig zaging in the valley for no good reason.
Day got better once meeting "Maxi" and his son. Jan, if you are reading this Maximiliano says hi and has only good things to say about you. I told him you were off in the mountains somewhere but hopefully will come back to visit again. He wanted to make sure people were good to us and luckily we told him we only had pleasant encounters. His neighbor down the road (Seguro?) was also extremely friendly. The rest of the way to Laguna Verde was fast, a mixture of old roads and easy trails and a CC bit. The first puesto at Laguna Verde was abandoned and we slept in the grass beside it. It was very windy and the water in the lake was very dirty but luckily we found a small dribble of flowing water near the puesto. In the morning everything was covered in frost and slightly frozen, our first freeze.
Day5
Our final day was easy, the ridge got a little tedious (but was surprisingly beautiful in parts) and I was very happy it wasn't a hot day because otherwise it would have been very dry and uncomfortable. We managed to avoid all barbed wire fences (even though they could be jumped because 3/4 of the fence is cow panels and just the top two lines are barbed). When you are walking down from the trail from the ridge , instead of turning left and jumping over your first fence we just went straight down towards the main road (aim for this open gate -38.63510, -71.09298), it is on the first dirt road marked on OSM branching from the main road when going into Chile from the border after Liucura[Nov 2024: now included in our suggestions]. There were a couple big dogs at the end but they were locked up. Only 1km of road walking back to Liucura, past a nice looking restaurant, and or you could just start hitching to Lonquimay if desired. We agree that you could technically resupply in Liucura, it was a very happening border stop with fruit and vegetables, sold out bread and then all the other basics- but no canister fuel obviously. The bus situation from here is confusing as the shop owners and locals all say different things. What I gathered was that there was a bus going to Lonquimay at ~7, ~12 and ~4pm but I don't think it runs every day. Hitching to Lonquimay looked easy but we hitched to Icalma (more difficult, but we got a car in about 40 minutes or so) even though supposedly there was a bus to Icalma at 730/8/830?pm. Once again I don't think the bus runs everyday or weekends, possibly only Mon- Wed- Friday.In Icalma that was the case, if going to Lonquimay or Melipeuco there was only a bus Mon,Wed & Friday. Sadly I forget the exact times but I remember the first bus was very early, leaving ~6am and then a bus to lonquimay at 3pm. Icalma had lots of little minimarkets and cheap accomodation, slept in cabana for 20mil/night (10mil each).
Notes:
-If I was to do this trip again I wish I had more time to spend at the puestos.
-The picoñes piñones are falling, also wish I doubled up on fuel in order to cook them. We tried mashed picoñes piñones in Icalma and they were delicious!
-The wasps have replaced horseflies, never got sting but got bit.
-No problems with water, only had to carry extra water on the last day after the final water stop at 87.6.
-luckily Luckily only had a few bad days of smoke, mainly when we were close to Trapa Trapa.
- The road walk around Guallalí is annoying and best avoided through our new option.
*'''2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR starting from the termas de pelehue / Will '''
I merged onto section 12 at the termas de pelehue, where I was immediately greeted by a group of 20ish condors taking off from a patch of grass in the valley. My pace got even slower, watching them fly low around me.
I'm still one day behind the same set of footprints I've been following all the way since section 7. I guess I'll never catch up.
*'''2023-Jan-15 to 2023-Jan-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Termas de Pelehue (junction GPT 11, option 1 and GPT 12) - Liucura / Anna & Christopher '''
We connected section 11 and 12 and started at Termas de Pelehue around km 9.
The next morning we hitchhiked to Lonquimay. The buses from Lonquimay to Temuco leave at 8 am and 12:30 pm, not sure if there is also a later bus.
*'''2022-Dec-25 to 2022-Dec-30 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (combined with GPT11 via GPT11-02) / Véronica '''
Route: Junction at km 12.9 where GPT11-02 meets with GPT12 - Baños Coyucos - Laguna Marinanqui - Pehuenche Extortioner valley - Laguna Escondida - Liucura
==Season 2021/22==
* '''2022-Feb-14 to 2022-Feb-15 + 2022-Mar-07 to 2022-Mar-10 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''
The first day we continued from GPT11, starting at Termas de Pelehue (where you can camp, though you have to search around for non-sulfury water pushing up through the meadows). We continued along the border with Argentina. Great all-around views, decent trail instead of CC most of the time, no water at S 38° 09.380', W 071° 01.300' <- in agreement with Molly and Melissa.
We saw the camp site at 12-H and asked around in the roundabout way ("do you know a camp site?") standing next to it, but no positive answer came. We camped at the pass before Maximiliano's puesto instead, where there is a little water turning into the usual cow meadow. Met Maximiliano there :)
*'''2022-Feb-21 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH 02 / Romain '''
Regular Hiking Path :
- 12-02 continues by crossing the river on a beautiful wood hanging bridge (12-02A continues straight), I appreciated this path with plenty of rabbits, aracauria trees and beautiful landscapes. I slept close to the river in a flat field with apple and peach trees. It seemed people are used to camp there with lot of campfire marks, really windy the day I camp there
*'''2022-Jan-10 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / Molly og Melissa'''
Amazing section with great views. Definitely don't skip the two high parts unless the weather is bad. We didn't find it to be dangerously steep except for a few metres on the descent before Laguna Marinanqui, which were uncomfortable.
We arrived in Ranquil in the afternoon on a Sunday, and hitched to Lonquimay - very challenging though, with three rides and some walking in between
*'''2021-Nov-23 / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Marc Anthony'''
After i finished GPT 3 i headed down south to GPT 12 in order to hike the next couple of groups in a northbound direction since it’s more suitable to hike from down here this time of year compared to the more northern sections
==Season 2019/20==
*'''Feb 2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / Lauric'''
Took optional #002 east of regular trail to avoid climbing over barbed wire. It is an easy road. Then we climbed up on the ridge with optional #003. Not exactly on the track but we found a trail going up. On the ridge it's amazing with 360 views. Easy walking too. Optional down in the valley would be easier but less rewarding. Continued our way to the pass 1920m (after taking mate at Maximiliano's puesto). At the pass we left the regular trail to end up on a descending road. Easy descent to optional 12-04-#001 and easy walk in the valley. From there we avoided the extortioner and up to the second pass (2120m). The views are amazing. Very steep and CC descent. Wouldn't have liked to go up this part. From the pass to laguna Marinanqui is pretty boring but easy part. Laguna is very beautiful and a great place to camp. North of laguna is ankle deep in cowshit. We got up by the river to the termas. There are 2 pools. Then we headed town to Ranquil to finish the section. Carabineros let us camp on their field. Bus to Lonquimay Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6AM and 5PM in front of the police station.
* '''2020-Jan-24 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR mostly / Frank '''
At the high lakes I continued on RR-CC-I@12-57.1+7.5, a spectacular traverse but at the end there is a very steep & slow descent on rock, scree & sand. I would consider this descent to be dangerous & best avoided by taking the Pehuenche Extortioner variant. After Maximilian's Puesto I took OH-MR-V@12-03-#001out to the road then into Liucura. At least 2 places to stay there, they both have a restaurant. Also a cafe & 3 shops, you can resupply easily.
*'''2020-Jan-23 / Hiking / SOBO / RR Ending at ranquil carabineros / Ty & America '''
Just hiked to The hot spring from the top of section 11. Not much to report. Hot springs were luke warm. There’s some sort of makeshift hut covering them. Nice camp there though. We got a hitch when nearing the carabineros to Lonquimay. Wouldn’t usually count on this though. Definitely middle of nowhere. Apparently the bus comes at 5.
*'''2020-Jan-17 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 03 / Martina & Ivo '''
Start: Termas de Pelehue, End: Primary road towards Lonquimay
Amazing section. The Termas de Pelehue are gone due to the lack of maintenance. The second hot springs the same, but the fumaroles above are quite impressive! The third hot springs down in the valley are great, there are several pools just below the camp. After the second pass (2'180) we decided not to do the investigation route as it looked pretty uncomfortable to us. The descent after the third pass (1'920) to Maximiliano's puesto was a nice trail, not at all CC. There our longing for a beer was so huge that we took the optional route 12-03-#001 through the beautiful araucaria valley. Believe it or not, shortly before arriving at the primary road there came a bus, taking us to the junction, from where a connecting bus to Lonquimay was leaving, everything within 10 minutes :-) Excellent resupply and accommodation in Lonquimay, funny town.
* '''15-Jan-2020 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''
Spectacular section, some of the best scenery we have seen so far! Some of the ascents and descents are quite steep and technical. There is lots of loose rock and no easy track to follow. It was quite windy and all the high passes are dangerous in poor weather. The trail is also overgrown and difficult to follow in some sections. This makes it slower than you might expect, however it is perfectly doable. Good resupply in Licura at the end of the section, as well as nice places to stay (around 20000 pesos for a double).
* '''9-Jan-2020 / 5 days (GPT11 + GPT12) / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 2 Matus & Anna'''
We combined sections 11 and 12. It took us 5 days including one zero because of weather. Patagonia showed us bit of it's potential in these two sections.
Edit: adding a picture from the last sadle 1920m, we did after "rainy" day.
* '''2019-Dec-06 / 10 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liucura without the northern slope, so we went directly to Ranquil from S38°12.723' W71°05.208'/ Sophie & Hendrik '''
In total we were 11days on the trail, of which we spend 1.5 in the tent due to bad weather. The route is free except for one fort, but there is a workaround. Also we had a couple of navigation problems, which cost us several hours. See recent alerts and suggestions.
- The daily bus out of Ranquil does not stop at the busstation because it is too large to reverse there. You have to walk down the street ca. 2km to where a bridge crosses the river. The bus reverses here and does not go up further up the road. Right now it stops there at 6 in the morning.
=Resupply and Accommodation=