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GPT36P (Rio Baker)

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=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=
==Season 2025/26==
 
*'''GPT36 // 2025 Dec 3-5 // NOBO // 3 days // hiking // Bailey and Ohad'''
 
Challenges - fallen trees across the trail. Long road walking if you don't organize transport or can't get a hitch
 
Difficulty - 4/5
 
Attractiveness - 5/5
 
Note - you briefly cross into Argentina and back into Chile but there's no one here or any infrastructure
 
Day 1
 
We were given a number from El mosco, (+56 9 7751 7721) Christan, who drove us from villa O'Higgins to the end of the road. It cost 40,000 CLP per person, a bit expensive but no one really drives out here, so a hitch would've been difficult. We didn't regret paying because of our weather window.
 
The first day was a lot of up and down but easy to follow trail
 
Camp 1
 
We camped at camp [110.9/500] which was beautiful and protected from the wind by the lake
 
Day 2
 
We walked through the forest most of the day, heaps of fallen trees to navigate. The river valley was easy hiking. The fords were not an issue but incredibly cloudy and muddy from the rain
 
Camp 2
 
We camped at camp [79.9/876] which was a bit lumpy but we found a couple of flat spots. There's mice here.
 
Day 3
 
The hike up to pass was gradual and beautiful. There was a bit of fresh snow at the pass but not too bad. We actually overshot the pass but after assessing the topographic map we found our way
 
There was an incredibly bad section of fallen trees (photo shown).
 
If going NOBO, kilometer 58.3 km (SOBO) take the trail heading east, with a few fords heading to the puesto. The trail was nice and clear of dead fall. I'll upload a photo from ohads gps in the comments. Can't say much about the condition of RR, but we tried briefly and there were heaps of fallen trees
 
We were lucky to have a hitch from the start of the road into Cochrane from a local
 
We stayed at Hostal Ana Luz 15,000 CLP per person for two beds in one room
 
Ohad will upload our trip report of GPT37
==Season 2024/25==
==Season 2023/24==
* <span style==Season 2022"background-color:aqua;">'''2023-Dec-31 /23==3 day / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + Variant G / Tom Pieper'''</span> For alternative entering of the Rio Baker via Rio Chacabuco see also Section 35 I really enjoyed the ride on the rio baker. Technically it was not difficult but indeed it’s a mighty stream and you will observe big boils from time to time. Due to the high speed its easy to make 50 km or more per day. The first rapid {36P} [41.8/77] can be run on the right side in the main current but watch out for strong whirlpools after. I portaged rapido {36P} [56.9/70] ‘gonzalez’. It might be not impossible and the line is quite obvious and straight, but the consequences if not sticking to the line could be severe. Jan is right mentioning losing your boat there is a catastrophe. There is a good camp spot in the woods at the begin of the portage. I think the third rapid Jan mentioned is at Settler {36H-03} [6.8/63]. I found that rather easy and went on the left side. El Salton must be portaged of course. Massive forces here. The portage trail has nice campsites, too. I found a nice camping spot at one of the small islands at S 47° 40.282’ W 073° 06.376’ with lot of ripe calafate berry and even some of the first strawberries. Most of the bigger islands have cattle. There is one last rapid at S 47° 46.027’ W 073° 17.559’ called rapido borquez. It can be easily run on the right side. I left the river at the airport an toked Variant G to the beautiful town of Caleta Tortel.
==Season 2021/22==
* <span style==Season 2020"background-color:aqua;">'''2022-Feb / Packrafting / Mikhail Bogdanov&Masha Ovchinnikova'''</span> See for https://web.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1319249015247648/21==
==Season 2019/20==
* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''GPT36H Regular Packrafting Route / Southern End: Laguna Clara to Villa O‘Higgins/ 2020-Jan-08 / 1.5 days / Meylin Ubilla & Jan Dudeck'''</span> The Ruta de los Pioneros“ is one of the historic routes that was created and used by the first settlers in the last century. This route connected Villa O’Higgins with Cochrane long before the Carreta Austral was completed in the year 2000. The northern and the southern terminus; approx. 50 km on each end; are now upgraded to gravel roads. Only the roughly 100 km in the middle remain a classic animal trail made and created by people on horses to drive cattle. To bypass as much as feasible of these gravel roads we have investigated in recent years multiple alternatives on both ends of GPT36H. Especially with a packraft most of these gravel road kilometers can be bypassed on a very attractive combination of lakes and rivers with shorter portages in between. We now investigated and verified a route that first crosses the 2 km wide Lago Claro and than connects on an excellent 2 km trail to Rio Meyer. To continue either only cross Rio Meyer (like we did) or float downstream o. this river up to 4 km (alternative river exit to be scouted first!). An perfectly maintained trail leads then to Lago Biceño (2 to 6 km depending on only crossing Rio Meyer or floating downstream up to 4 km on Rio Mayer). Here a decision needs to be made depending on wind: either paddle a part of Lago Briceño or or continue walking 8 km to Salto on an scenic very well maintained trail (Alternatively a 6 km long trail connects from Lago Briceño to Lago Salto on a different route). After traversing 4 km on Lago Salto a 1 km short animal trail leads to Lago Cines. Once you reach Lago Cisnes it’s 13 km on a combination of lakes and rivers that gets you very close to Villa O’Higgins. Only the last 3 km into the village must be walked on a gravel road. We travelled this route in 1.5 days and really enjoyed the landscape, the excellent trails and the scenic paddling. Even in suboptimal weather this route is feasible and offers plenty of alternatives and escape routes. Therefore I will re-route the regular packrafting route of GPT36H to this route. Between Lago Claro and Lago Salto we discovered the best maintained trails of the entire Aysen region. Bridges cross even the smallest streams and all muddy areas are crossed on wooden passages. After years of hiking in this region this came as a surprise. But we also know why. These trails were not created to serve the public but a single family: los “Luksic”, the richest clan of Chile (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andrónico_Luksic_Abaroa). They buy up huge plots of land in this region to create family resorts and as investments. The land between Lago Claro and Lago Salto is owned to my knowledge by this family. And they have the money to contract a large stuff to i.e. create and maintain trails on their properties. What was nice: when a group of 3 employees passed us on a trail on quarts they did not challenge us but gave use useful recommendations how to continue. Legally, access to lakes, rivers and the coast must be given in Chile even if the private property i.e. surrounds a lake but landlords can make it difficult anyway. To my knowledge all access routes from public roads a locked but since we accessed this area on water we did not have to climb over locked gates. Therefore this route seams to me suitable for packrafters. Multiple route variations are feasible that link in further lakes. Short bushwhacking portages might be required in this case but the landscape and vegetation seams generally more open than the Valdivian rain forrest on the Aysen coast. Someone can easily spend up to 5 days discovering other packrafting routes in this area. * <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''2019-Dec-28 / 6 days / Option 3: Lago Quetru, Rio Pascua, Lago & Glaciar Bergues, Fiordo Buzeta / Meylin Ubilla & Jan Dudeck'''</span>
This 5 to 7 day round-trip is an fascinating hidden gemstone that combines some of the finest packrafting on lakes, rivers and fjords in touching distance to the Southern Patagonian Icefield with some demanding bushwhacking and visits of remotely living settlers. It’s South-Western Patagonia in a nutshell. The entire route traverses an area that is practically never visited by tourists and this not because of lack of attraction but because it is simply off the trotted path and requires a packraft.
Carretera Austral to Villa O’Higgins: Once you hit the Carretera Austral consider to backtrack to the refuge at the ferry landing point Rio Bravo. There you may sleep sheltered and it is the best point to hitchhike or catch a bus towards Villa O’Higgins. Diehard Thru-Hikers need to get prepared for 60 to 70 km of road walking. The regular packrafting route of this section becomes attractive again at Rio Colorado about 30 km before Villa O’Higgins.
For Rio Colorado to Villa O’Higgins see post: mhttps://www.facebook.com/storygroups/222224388283455/posts/graphql_permalink538542493318308/?graphql_id=UzpfSTY3ODk3MzQ4OTpWSzo1Mzg1NDI0OTMzMTgzMDg%3D
* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''2019-Dec-27 / 1 day (40km) / Regular Packrafting Route / SOBO from Tortel to Rio Bravo via Canal Montalva and Fiordo Mitchell / Meylin Ubilla & Jan Dudeck'''</span>
After packrafting Rio Baker from Cochrane to Tortel last season we verified now the continuation from Tortel to Rio Bravo in the fjords.
For Rio Baker see: mhttps://www.facebook.com/storygroups/222224388283455/permalink/graphql_permalink533705217135369/?graphql_id=UzpfSTY3ODk3MzQ4OTpWSzo1MzM3MDUyMTcxMzUzNjk%3D 
We timed our travel to Tortel to arrive just before a series of low-wind day. The yr.no page predicted wind between 1 and 3 m/s during the entire next day which is exceptionally calm for this region (we had actually gusts of wind exceeding 10 m/s). We left Tortel paddling at sunrise to use the normally calmer morning to advance as much as possible and to cross in particular the most wind exposed area called by locals “quatro viento” as early as possible. “Quatro viento” means “four winds” and refers to a 2 km wide area where 4 fjords join and where often strong wind and high waves make paddling with a small raft unsafe.
To continue towards Villa O’Higgins I recommend hitchhiking or taking a bus. Diehard Thru-Hikers need to get prepared for 60 to 70 km of road walking. The regular packrafting route of this section becomes attractive again at Rio Colorado.
 
For Rio Colorado to Villa O’Higgins see: m.facebook.com/story/graphql_permalink/?graphql_id=UzpfSTY3ODk3MzQ4OTpWSzo1Mzg1NDI0OTMzMTgzMDg%3D
This packrafting route should only be attempted on two consecutive calm days. Don’t plan to complete the entire fjord route in one day. This is only feasible if the afternoon remains reasonable calm.
==Season 2018/19==
* <span style==Season 2017"background-color:aqua;">'''2019-Jan-25 to 2019-Jan-27 /18==GPT36P Rio Baker Southbound / Regular Packrafting Route / Part 1 of 3: Cochrane to Tortel / Ricardo Campos, Jennifer Schmitz(Jen Ni), Markus Legner and Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González'''</span>
==Season 2016/17==The Rio Baker is with approx. 900 cubic meter per second Chile's largest river in terms of volume of water. Few rivers this large in the world remain undammed and free flowing. And apart from a few settlers on some of the river beaches you see barely any signs of human intervention. This makes this 170 km long river a beautiful but giant beast.
On the first river section powerful rapids fill the wide river valley with the constant roars of crushing water. Someone can admire this show of force from the distant Carretera Austral when traveling from Lago General Carrera to Cochrane.
 
Only on the last 140 km this beast mostly snoozes but growls and snarls from time to time. And in one place - the “Salton” - it smashes everything with his giant fist that gets in his way.
 
Packrafting this lower part of Rio Baker is feasible for experienced packrafters but if you are not at least slightly scared you lack the right attitude. Powerful eddies and huge boils in the river bends require a constant careful reading of the water and foresighted, precise and forceful maneuvering. Strong wind can make the control of your packraft impossible so be prepared to sit out periods of unsuitable weather. The river flows with an average speed of about 8 km/h but exceeds this velocity in some parts substantially.
 
There is one mortal rapid about halfway between the put in and the outflow into the sea: the “Salton”. An well maintained trail makes the 1 km portage rather easy but don’t miss the exit (details see below).
Three minor to moderate rapids should be carefully scouted or portaged. Depending on the current flow rate the difficulty and the possible rafting lines alter.
 
The first of the three rapids (Class 2) can be paddled generally on two lines: the relative wide open right side or a very slim “chicken line” on the far left. Expect strong eddies that require forceful paddling to stabilize the packraft in and after the rapid. A scouting and portage is also possible if stopping on the left side before the rapid.
 
The second moderate rapid is known as “Rapido Gonzalez” and is a rather long Class 3 rapid. The character of this rapid changes significantly with the amount of water. There is a reasonably well maintained portage trail on the right side. We portaged our packrafts about 1 km around this rapid after scouting. Paddling this rapid with an open packraft, without helmet, without a full size white-water-PFD and without plenty of white water experience seams not advisable. Losing your boat and gear in this remote area would put anyone in serious trouble even if making it back to river shore unhurt.
 
The third minor rapid (Class 2) can be paddled rather safely if staying in the middle between the big boulders or it can be portaged on right side after entering a small bay.
 
Heavy wind may make it impossible to paddle all the way to the sea. In this case you may leave Rio Baker at the airfield at Tortel or in the few spots where the road to Tortel is next to the river (only few spots on the last 30 river km).
 
Suitable camp sites are relatively frequent thanks to the few settlers on both sides of the river and the cattle grazing land.
 
I would advise against packrafting this river solo or in a single boat. Only a second packraft provides the recommended support in case one boat is flipped by one of the powerful eddies and boils.
We were very fortunate with weather and wind and packrafted nearly 150 km in 2.5 days (approx. 25 h moving time including two portages). Also the fjord was unusual calm and we paddled into Tortel from the sea what makes the perfect finish.
 
In Tortel you can resupply and bus to Cochrane and Villa O‘Higgins. A good continuation for packrafters is the Rio Colorado, Lago Colorado, Lago Cisnes, Lago Ciervo and Rio Mayer southbound on the way to Villa O‘Higgins
 
* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''2019-Jan-29 / GPT36P Rio Baker / Packrafting Route / Part 2 of 3: Tortel to Rio Colorado / With Jennifer Schmitz (Jen Ni) , Markus Legner and Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González'''</span>
 
The Carretera Austral connects since 2003 Tortel with Villa O’Higgins and several buses per week connect both villages.
 
Since there are no trails left taking the bus is to my opinion the most practical option to connect from the Rio Baker with the next packrafting part.
 
“Connecting footsteps disciples” have three options:
 
1. Roadwalk 115 km and packraft 9 km (from Puerto Yungay to Puerto Rio Bravo in a rather wind exposed fjord)
 
2. Roadwalk 67 km and packraft 40 km from Tortel to Puerto Rio Bravo in wind explosed fjords with few good exit and camp options. This 40 packraft kilometers are an serious challenge and might result in substantial waiting time for low-wind periods. See the attached image.
 
3. Follow GPT36H instead of GPT36P.
 
* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''2019-Jan-30 / GPT36P Rio Baker / Regular Packrafting Route / Part 3 of 3: Rio Colorado to Villa O’Higgins or Puerto Bahmondez / With Jennifer Schmitz (Jen Ni), Markus Legner and Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González'''</span>
 
This packrafting combination of 4 river sections and 3 or 4 lakes (depending on finish point) makes up a senic and quite diverse packrafting day (30 to 35 km). You can remain continuously on the water till either leaving at the suspension bridge over Rio Mayer (to resupply in Villa O’Higgins) or paddle all the way to Puerto Bahmondez (if you already have a ticket for the crossing to Candelario Mancilla and all your supplies for GPT38).
 
The rather small rivers are mostly framed by dense low forest and swampland what limits the entry and exit options. But the small rivers contain surprisingly few fallen trees if entering at El Parrillal as we did.
While driving by bus to our put in at Parrillal we had a glimpse of some upstream parts of Rio Colorado that are currently published as an exploration packrafting route. This upstream river section seams in parts too shallow and completely blocked by trees and I will delete the first 14 km of it.
 
When hiking on land someone can open overgrown parts by machete but when packrafting I don’t want to rely on a machete to smash a passage into an overgrown mini-river. So better skip the 22 km of Exploration Packrafting Route completely (EXP-RP-RI-1@36P-257.6) or investigate only the last 8 km of this Exploration Packrafting Route that seams open on satellite images. For this investigation seak your way from about Las Turbas at the Carretera Austral to Rio Colorado (see images with updated exploration suggestion).
=Resupply and Accommodation=
==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==
 
=Transport to and from Route=
 
=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=
 
=Links to other Resources=
=Images=
 
[[Archivo: | ]]
 
====Elevation Profile of Regular Packrafting Route====
[[File:profile GPT36-p.PNG|frame|center|Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route (2019)]]