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ediciones
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→Season 2024/25
Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:
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* '''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''
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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or <span style="background-color:aqua;">Packrafting</span> / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>
If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above): <!-- IF YOU COPY FROM THIS EDITING VIEW, YOU NEED TO USE THIS TEMPLATE (* TRANSFORMS INTO BULLET, ''' MAKE IT BOLD, WHAT IS ENCLOSED IN <> MAKES IT BLUE):* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''</span>--><nowiki>* <span style="background-color:aqua;">'''</nowiki><span style="background-color:aqua;">'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''</span><nowiki>'''</span></nowiki>. If you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting".
= Overview =
Here it's important to note that to legally visit Valle Zapata (Option 8) you need either licenced guide or an expedition permit issued by CONAF.
==Season 2024/25==
* ''' 2025-MAR-24 > 25 / 2 jours / Randonnée / NOBO / RR > <strike>45-03 (O)</strike> / Pierre-Marie '''
Etape : GPT46+GPT45
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 3/5
| Difficulté : 5/5
| Danger : réglementation, restrictions, touristes
<span style="background-color:red;">Consultez le site internet avant de commencer. Il y a énormément de contraintes pour randonner et camper.</span>
Je fais du stop pour rejoindre le départ de la randonnée 45-08. Je tombe sur des chiliens (en lune de miel) trop sympa qui acceptent. Avant nous nous arrêtons au péage pour que j'achète un pass 5 jours pour le parc. Je n'ai pas commencé que tous mes plans tombent à l'eau. La dame me dit beaucoup de choses que je n'ai pas vu dans le wiki :
45-08 > seulement avec un guide.
Camp 45-06 21,4 > pas pour les tentes.
45 (le long du rio Grey) > uniquement SoBo du 1/11 au 31/03.
Circuit O > uniquement dans le sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre.
Il y a des limite d'heure pour accéder à certaines zones du parc.
Les circuits O et W ne sont pas ouvert toute l'année.
Il faut réserver les camp au nord car les parcs ranger au km 21,6 sont très zélés (info de randonneurs que j'ai croisé).
Je pense que les GPS tracks doivent êtres modifiées et complétées. Je pense que toutes les infos sont sur le site de TdP, je n'ai pas pris le temps d'y aller, c'est de ma faute.
La carte est ici : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RlXyrfCmkbLPsbJeKvJdDkVmJkc_5IEe/view
Les années passent et nos libertés se reduisent. Je suis allé à la cafeteria Pudeto pour prendre le ferry vers le camping Paine Grande (26 000 CLP) puisqu'il n'y a pas de piste NoBo pour s'y rendre en mars. Je vais juste faire le circuit O au départ de Paine Grande. Je suis déçu car je ne verrai pas de près le glacier Tyndall. Le camping de Paine Grande est facile a frauder car il n'y a aucun contrôle. Sinon c'est 9 500 CLP pour une nuit.
Le sentier n'est pas si fréquenté. Il y a du monde mais la circulation est facile. Il est possible de laisser son sac en bas sur les aller-retours du circuit W. Le mirador à 970m est fermé. La piste s'arrête à 750m, comme sur la trace GPS. C'est extrêmement frustrant car contrairement aux montagnes d'Europe, il est interdit de faire du hors piste et de randonner librement. Le mirador est le début de la partie intéressante, et malheureusement la fin de la piste. Impossible de faire des sommets, le lac ou les cols. Je pense qu'il est facile de frauder et de faire sa propre rando hors-piste, car il n'y a aucun contrôle. Je n'ai pas pris le risque, j'essai de respecter les règles de ce pays qui n'est pas le mien. Le camp Los Cuernos m'a couté 20 000 CLP. Il y a beaucoup de monde sur la randonnée vers le mirador Base de las Torres.
Il y a toujours un pont pour franchir les differents cours d'eau, sinon c'est qu'il est facile de les franchire sans mouiller ses chaussures.
Quand je suis arrivé au camp Serón, on m'a dit de payer 105 US$. J'ai refusé de payer cette escroquerie évidemment. J'avais 2 options, continuer en faisant du camping sauvage, ou annuler ma randonnée. J'en avais tellement marre de ce parc que la décision n'a pas été difficile. Ils nous demandent de réserver les camping alors qu'il est impossible de savoir où on sera le soir. Ca n'a pas de sens. J'ai pris la navette Las Torres > Laguna Amarga 4 500 CLP puis le bus pour Puerto Natales 14 000 CLP. Je suis déçu que ce parc soit aussi mal géré, il est impossible d'y randonner tranquillement. Un Disneyland pour touriste. Aventuriers et alpinistes, passez votre chemin sinon vous finirez aussi frustrés que moi.
*'''12-12-24 - 17-12-24 - 4.5 days, NOBO / O+W trek / RR + option 3 / Robin & Manon'''
Coming from Rio Serrano, we hiked the O+W trek. We took 3+ days entrance for 45kCLP that never got checked. We arrived without reservation at Paine Grande without any problem, don't bother the reservation. We walked to Mirador Británico ar 6am and were almost alone. Incredibly scenic valley. Then we walked to Chileno camping without reservation (38km long day). We got refused at Chileno, but if you negotiate with the guy, there is a very small spot at the end of the camping above the luxury tents for guests. They're not supposed to let you in but they did for 2 tents before us and we did not ask and just joined. Better to avoid this shitty crowded place and stay at central if you really want to go the the Torres base.
We hiked to the Mirador at 5:30 and met a reasonable amount of people. Get in between the sunrise persons and the tourist wave later in the morning. Impressive view, but is it worth the crowd struggle ? Not sure. From a GPT perspective you might be disappointed.
We walked down, got an expensive sandwich at the welcome centre and walked directly to Dickson on an easy track (31km from the welcome centre, 48 in total since Chileno). Dickson is superbe and welcoming. We weren't checked for reservation.
We talked with the conaf to skip Los Perros (closure time theoretically at 7pm.) They were completely chill about that once they understood we were experienced and equipped. Some rules are meant for non-hikers tourists and you can consider not following them.
5 hours walk from Dickson to John Garner pass, absolutely incredible views on the campp de hielo. Coming from the south it's the first time and it's great. We climbed to a shoulder on the ridge of Cerro condor north of the pass, great views.
Grey camping is enormous and you will likely find a spot without reservation. Good resupply there.
The O trek option 3 is incredibly scenic and closer to the long distance hiking spirit. Maybe it should be considered marking it RR instead of the W and it's crowds ?
==Season 2023/24==
* '''SoBo / January 22 2023 / Tobias Schorcht /7 Days / Hiking '''
Took the bus to Park entrance Laguna Amarga and went 88 km up to the border. Easy walking, nice views, lonely. Funfact: I met 2 builders who are in charge of maintaining the road. They are supposed to start in Dezember this year! In some years (it will take quite a while to build up 15 bridges) there will be a even a border control up there.
Payed the Torres del Paine fee for 3 days at Laguna Amarga and walked straight 26 km to Camping Pehoé. It is a good visible, official trail, is barley used. I did not meet any other hiker but a beautiful Puma (Lago Sarmiento). For some parts you have to walk on the road. The views are stunning.
The part southbounded (Lago Sarmiento Chico) is the most beautiful one. Left the park at admission Río Serrano and continued with GPT 46.
=Resupply and Accommodation=
==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==
Robin December 2024 - all camping have basic resupply. Especially Paine Grande, Dickson and Grey, you will find gas, pastas, cheese, bread if you're lucky, and junk food (cookies, chips, chocolate) + beers and sodas. Overall very high cost. Bad resupply at Los Perros, Seron.
Don't necessarily trust what you hear or read about the camping and reservation. You most likely will find room on the O trek even at the last minute, and Paine Grande and Central campaigns will always have room.
Frank January 2024. There is a good campsite at Laguna Azul 1KM from the park office. The location is marked Laguna Azul Viewpoint on OSM. Camping 12,000 pesos. Wifi, electricity, food & hot water available from 7PM. They have pizza & sandwiches, not expensive. Also sell bread & biscuits. You don't need to have a park entry ticket to stay there.
=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=
Robin 12/24 - we bought directly tickets from the Rio serrano entrance and never got checked. 45 kCLP for more than 3 days. Trail closure times are indicative. When it's checked, a small discussion with guardaparques can solve the problem. You will probably always find a spot at Paine Grande, Central, Seron, Dickson, Los Perros and Grey campsites without reservation. The other ones (Frances, Cuernos, chileno) are mostly luxury tents, and they will refuse that you pitch your tent. Overall, prefer the camping ran by Vertice company (Paine Grande, Dickson, Los Perros, Grey) (9kCLP/p/d). Avoid the Las Torres campings (Francés, Cuernos, Chileno, Central, Seron) (45kCLP/p/d).
You can no longer buy tickets at the park entrances & should get them online instead. There is no wifi or phone signal at the Laguna Amarga entrance.
Park entry is currently $35 US for up to 3 days or $49 for more than 3 days (January 2024 prices) for foreigners. Chileans pay 8000 pesos for up to 3 days & 11,500 for more than 3 days.