Wikiexplora - Contribuciones del usuario [es]

GPT48 (Seno Otway)

2025-04-23T01:55:35Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT48 (Seno Otway)

2025-04-23T01:54:55Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT50 (Cabo Froward)

2025-04-23T01:22:27Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT50 (Cabo Froward)

2025-04-23T01:22:00Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT50 (Cabo Froward)

2025-04-23T01:09:08Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT47 (Seno Skyring)

2025-04-13T15:43:26Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT44 (Peninsula de Magellanes)

2025-04-07T21:05:07Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT44 (Peninsula de Magellanes)

2025-04-07T21:03:50Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT41 (Lago Viedma)

2025-03-31T20:34:37Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT41 (Lago Viedma)

2025-03-31T20:32:39Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT41 (Lago Viedma)

2025-03-31T20:32:15Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT39 (Monte Fitzroy)

2025-03-28T18:14:29Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT37H (Peninsula La Florida)

2025-03-26T14:47:10Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT37H (Peninsula La Florida)

2025-03-26T14:46:14Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT36H (Ruta De Los Pioneros)

2025-03-26T14:43:02Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT40 (Glaciar Viedma)

2025-03-26T14:29:56Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT36H (Ruta De Los Pioneros)

2025-03-17T11:32:38Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT35 (Parque Patagonia)

2025-03-17T11:30:57Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025-MAR-02 to 2025-MAR-07 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. L) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

A beautiful section through stunning nature, although the presence of a national park comes with an entrance fee and a higher number of people and cars.

We followed the RR almost entirely. The only exceptions were the descent into the Jeinemeni River valley, where we followed the trail marked in OSM rather than the track files from kilometer 32 until reconnecting with the MR at kilometer 38. Second exeprion was Variant L, which seemed like a more logical approach to Casa Piedra. However, if you take this variant, be sure to check out the suspension bridge at [90.9/635] before turning off. Crossing a suspension bridge over a deep gorge is absolutely worth it!

CHALLENGES
The biggest challenge overall was the weather. Strong winds are to be expected, and at higher elevations, we encountered both snow and freezing temperatures.

The river crossings were not deep, but there were many of them. Given the cold and heavy rain we experienced, crossing them was not particularly pleasant.

The trail was often waterlogged and muddy. Don’t expect to keep your feet dry!

FEES
The entrance to Patagonia National Park can be booked and paid online via the CONAF website. Alternatively, rangers at the park entrance [53.0/843] can facilitate payment, as they have internet access via Starlink. The fee is 11,400 CLP per person.

At Casa Piedra, you enter another part of the park where another fee might be required. However, the local ranger didn’t ask for any payment, and since we didn’t use the campsite, we didn’t have to pay anything.

When exiting the park, no additional fees were requested.

BIVOUACING
Our first night, we arrived by ferry after 9 PM and camped just outside the town. We chose a spot among rocks west of town (-46.5397818, -71.7343889). There are several small tent spots among the bushes. It’s a quiet and scenic spot despite its proximity to town.

The second night, we camped on a plateau in a small valley with a water source [23.9/1586]. It’s slightly less windy than higher up, but still quite exposed. If your tents are not highly wind-resistant, we do not recommend following our example.

After entering the national park, camping is only allowed in designated campsites. The available campsites are:

Camp $, Bridge, Lake {35} [53.3/852] – Includes toilets and cold showers, with a few sheltered platforms. We did not have to pay for staying here.

Refuge {35} [61.7+0.2/856] – A simple shelter with several picnic tables and benches. Free of charge.

Refuge {35} [68.1/867] – Slightly off-trail, so we didn’t visit, but it appeared to be maintained.

Other campsites and shelters marked in OSM and track files further along are mostly ruined or unmarked open spaces. The next large managed campsite is Casa Piedra, costing 8,000 CLP per night.

From Casa Piedra onwards, we entered a different section of the national park, where the local ranger gave us no clear instructions on camping, nor did he seem concerned about it.

We camped on the shore of Lago Gutiarrez (-47.07580, -72.24877), and we weren’t the only ones—another group camped further down the shore.

Our final night was spent at the campsite [136.9/162], which was a nice spot.

A few hundred meters further at (-47.19807, -72.45737), there are three surprisingly nice and clean refugias, which could also be used.

WATER
Water is not an issue. The plateau at the start has several small lakes and streams, and for the rest of the section, the trail follows rivers and lakes for the most part.

Even at higher elevations, such as beyond the pass [110.8/1126], small streams were available for water resupply. A good example is at (-47.09787, -72.28568).

RESUPPLY
We resupplied in Puerto Ibáñez at a small minimarket near the lake, so we don’t have information on shopping options in Chile Chico.

In Cochrane, there are several stores. We were recommended Supermercado Rojita, located near the main square at (-47.25330, -72.57560).

Another well-stocked option was Supermercado Emporio Vecino Arno, which is conveniently located as you enter Cochrane at (-47.25089, -72.56108).

For food, we recommend Cumbres Pizzería Artesanal, located above Supermercado Rojita. It’s a small pizzeria, but the lady running it was very friendly, and this was easily the best pizza we had in Chile.

''' 2025 Feb 25 to Mar 7 / 9 hiking days, 1 zero days / NOBO / Hiking / Var R, Var S, RR, Opt 3D, Opt 3C, Opt 3, Opt 3A, Opt 2A, Opt N, Var T / Michael and Kasia '''

Quick notes: This was our second route in Parque Patagonia this season; we really loved this section, we saw a lot of animals, had some great weather and a couple rainy and windy days, and we managed to do a loop from Cochrane to Casa Piedra and back with minimal overlap.

CAMPS:

Night 01: -47.19763, -72.45248 (flat space for two to three tents, excellent water access, nice view, some wind protection, but would be cold if wind were coming from the south)

Night 02: -47.18468, -72.52438 (official campsite, okay view, not much wind protection, water access is about 70 m away)

Night 03: -47.13894, -72.47796 (amazing view, site is fairly flat, water access is about 150 m away, no wind protection)

Night 04: -47.15964, -72.41494 (amazing view, easy water access, good wind protection from the north, right on the trail)

Night 05 and 06: -47.13355, -72.31556 (Refuge, X {35} 118.3, not a refuge but a collapsed stop over puesto, nice view of the lake, some wind protection but not a lot, easy water access)

Night 07: Casa Piedra (8.000 pp, access to bathrooms, running water, electricity and indoor place for cooking and eating, flat places for tents with some wind protection, there are mice in the outdoor covered areas)

Night 08: -47.17285, -72.36981 (nice view, some wind protection, water is about 100 m away)

Night 09: same as night 1

Night 10: -47.22544, -72.53908 (good wind protection, no water)

WATER:

Generally easy to find, however on a new route to create a loop there was an 18 km section with no water.

Day 01: Feb 25

We started from Cochrane around 11:00. Var R was easy to follow. At [Gate {35-R} 13.5] we met a local gaucho named Lionel who happened to be going through the gate right when we arrived. He was very friendly. We chatted for a bit and he told us to just follow the road to the park. [Gate {35-P} 10.6] was a little tricky. The gate is padlocked shut and the center vertical posts are broken, so I think it would not be a good idea to try to climb the gate. On the downhill side, the gate is only attached to the post by some fence wire. We undid the wire and pulled the gate open from the side to get through and then rewired it to the post. This is easier with two people. [Water {35–P} 7.7] was a stream that was flowing clear. [Water 4.9] was also flowing, but [Water 4.1] was just a couple of muddy, stagnant pools. [Camp 4.0] also looked kind of exposed and not that inviting. There was another stream about 120 m further along Var R. We decided to take Var S (Sendero 6: Los Ciruelillos) down to the lake. At km 3.72 of Var R, Var S starts downhill. We did not see a way to continue on Var R. I could barely make out where a trail might have existed in the past, but it would be BB. Var S was very clear and easy to follow, though somewhat steep and hard on the knees. At the bottom we walked RR NOBO to [Camp {35} 137.6]. This was a really great campsite, right near the lake with flat space for two or three tents, and one tent could be under some trees for wind protection. Unfortunately there were already people there, so we continued toward [Camp 136.9]. Close to it at (-47.19763, -72.45248) we found a really nice spot under a couple of trees right near the lake. We had a windless night, so it was very peaceful, however I would recommend checking the weather in advance as this would likely be a cold spot if the wind was coming over the lake.

Day 02 - Feb 26th

We backtracked across the field and back up Var S, then switched to Opt 3D (Sendero 8: Los Pumas). The route was steep in parts, but again very clear and easy to follow. There were some nice views out over the valley. At the end of Opt 3D we switched to Opt 3C (Sendero 7: Los Guanacos) heading west along the south side of the lakes. At (-47.18524, -72.49595) along the southwest side of Laguna Elafantita there was a really nice beach. It was a sunny, windless day when we were there and we stopped for about a half hour to wade in the water and rest in the sun. We highly recommend making time for a stop there if the weather is good. The path after Laguna Elafantita was across wetlands and was swampy in places, however we managed to get through without getting our feet wet. At the trail intersection we started into Opt 3 (Sector Tamango) (Sendero 9: Los Cóndores). We camped at Laguna Cangrejo at the second official camping area, about 450 m further north than [Camp {35-03} 15.3]. It was a clear sky and a windless night. It got cold very quickly and everything was wet from dew quite quickly.

Day 03 - Feb 27th

We woke up to everything being covered in frost. Both the inside and the outside of our tent had a frost layer. Kasia came up with the brilliant idea to use the rubber scraper spatula we have in the kitchen like an ice scraper. We managed to scrape enough frost to make a tiny snowman. We took some time to get everything dried out since it was a sunny morning. We continued on Opt 3. Part way up there was a short section where a huge blow down had covered part of the trail. At km 10.5 we switched to Opt 3A (Lagunas Altas). There was a 400 m or so section of an exposed traverse on a narrow, degrading path that would not be ideal in windy or rainy conditions. Overwise the trail was in good shape and easy to follow. We camped at (-47.13894, -72.47796) just off the trail overlooking the lake. Water access was about 150 m away, having to walk part way around the lake to get to a stone beach. This would not be a good camp if there was wind, but it had an exceptional view.

Day 04 - Feb 28th

We took an alternate trail that Alex had suggested to us. At km 1.47 of Opt 3A, about 35 m from a stream at (-47.14331, -72.46124), on the right hand side there is a trail that goes east-northeast. It is actually a very clear trail that is easy to follow. The route runs largely parallel to GPT Opt 2 (Ruta X83) but entirely on trail. It goes up above and around the southern side of two lakes and provides some excellent views. It makes for some very pleasant hill walking. I will note that there were very few places to collect water on the way, and the hills are quite exposed. It was sunny and hot the day we went and we wished we had taken more water. The trail finally descends to the lake where it is possible to reconnect with RR. At the north end of the lake we found three areas where camping was possible. We camped more to the east end of the north shore at (-47.15964, -72.41494). It was a really nice spot with space for a large tent and another nearby, easy water access, a wonderful view out over the lake, and good wind protection for us (the winds were coming over the hill that night, not across the lake).

Day 05 - Mar 1st

From the lake we headed up the hill and walked down the road just enough to see the Refuge 130.4 from above. It was still intact, but we were very happy with our choice of campsite for the night. We took Var N for about 500m until it connected into RR at km 130.8, then started RR NOBO. It was a cloudy day, often windy. As we headed up there were caterpillars everywhere. We saw a few woodpeckers tapping away at some trees. At km 127.8 the trail connects with a 2 track road and follows it for about 1 km. The trail breaks off the road again, though it was not visible and we accidentally walked past it. By looking at the satellite later however, we could see that the 2 track road continued on and eventually connected to Opt 2A. This became relevant later. At somewhere around km 120.5 on RR we lost the trail and ended up below it. We had to climb up a steep hill and over to reconnect to the track. The [Refuge, X 118.3] site is not that nice in our opinion, though the dense trees between the site and the lake do provide decent wind protection. We had windy conditions and some rain. There is a nice beach that would be very enjoyable in nice weather.

Day 06 - Mar 2nd

We stayed at Laguna Guagua to wait over rain and high winds. Despite the weather report, the morning was calm and pleasant. The afternoon and the night were very windy. We spent part of the day map scrolling and discovered a road visible in the satellite layer that leaves the highway 13 km after Casa Piedra heading toward Chacabuco, and that then connects to Opt 2A. From the map it looked possible to walk that route and then along the road we had accidentally walked too far on the previous day. We decided that we would try to walk back to Cochrane.

Day 07 - Mar 3rd

It was a cold, windy morning, though the sun was out. The trail was generally easy to see and follow. The lack of maintenance is obvious, but enough people seem to walk it that the trail is generally visible. We found water at three points heading up to the pass (-47.11424, -72.29322), (-47.10902, -72.28838), (-47.09787, -72.28558). The pass was easy. On the way down the trail is a little harder to follow, not so much because it's hard to see, but because there are a lot of strips of bare ground that look like paths, but aren't, or at least aren't the correct one. I checked the GPS frequently and we only had two or three places where we had to search a bit. The views over Laguna Gutiérrez were really spectacular. We had sun with interesting cloud formations around the mountains, and the mountains had a dusting of fresh snow. The water in the lake was a really amazing blue. More to the west end of the lake there were places where it was possible to access the beach. It got much harder to do so closer to the east end. We found water without having to go down to the lake at two points along the lake route (-47.07573, -72.24689), (-47.07908, -72.22735), and one on the way out toward Casa Piedra (-47.07480, -72.20466). There were also some very steep, near scrambling areas that we would not have wanted to do in rainy conditions. We had actually thought of camping near the east end of the lake, but there are no trees there, just a lot of spiky bushes, and no clear path to get there. It might be possible to camp directly on the beach if the weather is calm. The weather report for the following day was rain and high winds, so we decided to camp at Casa Piedra. We were the only ones there other than the guardaparque. We stayed near one of the shelters. There was a mouse scampering around inside it so we stored our stuff in the dining hall in the lodge. When we arrived the guardaparque asked us where we were coming from and where we were going. We said we had come from the direction of Argentina and were going to Cochrane, and she didn't ask any other questions. We were able to pay for camping with a credit card.

Day 08 - Mar 4th

It was very windy throughout the night and rained a fair bit. There was sun in the morning so we were able to dry everything out before getting a late start. That made it worth paying for the camping. We walked 13 km on the highway. There was almost no traffic at all, and only one car passed that was going our direction. For the first couple of hours it was sunny in the valley with clouds all around. Around 13:00 it started raining and didn't fully stop until 19:00 that night. The road we were looking for left the highway at (-47.06902, -72.35132). It was not visible on OSM, but is on satellite. The road is a functioning 2 track road with a new looking steel cable stretched between two poles to block vehicle traffic, but otherwise easily accessible and obvious. About 500 m on the was a trailer and a structure of some sort under construction on a hill above the trailer. No one was around when we passed. After 2.6 km the road becomes Opt 2A. At km 6.7 on the Opt 2A track (-47.12185, -72.36911) there was an unmarked ford. A slow moving stream cut across the road. We looked for a way around it, but it seemed too wide to jump. It was top of the calf with very little current. 200 m further (-47.12237, -72.36619) the other end of the road we had walked too far a few days prior broke off and headed toward RR. We reconnected with RR SOBO, then started on Var N, which is an out of use 2 track road. It was actually still in good shape and was easy to follow. There weren't any fallen trees on the road, it's just a little overgrown with tall grass in some places. We camped under a tree about 100 m from a stream (-47.17391, -72.37062). We had a windless night, but just on the other side of the stream was a flat area under more trees that looked like it was better wind protected. (An important note: when leaving Casa Piedra heading west, the road follows the river for the first 3 km, then starts uphill and away from it. We did not find water again until the ford (about 18 km) and then after that not again until the stream (about 7 km). It wasn't an issue for us because it was cold and rainy that day so we weren't that thirsty, but on sunny days it would be important to take sufficient water before leaving the river as the route had very little shade along the way.)

Day 09 - Mar 5th

We finished Var N, then reconnected with RR SOBO. We camped at the same place we had camped our first night.

Day 10 - Mar 6th

We got a late start due to morning rain. We took RR SOBO (Sendero 3: Los Coigües, Sendero 2: Los Carpinteros). The route was clear, but there were several very steep parts that we would not want to do on a windy day. It was tricky enough with it being wet from rain. At km 143.9 we switched to Var T (Sendero 10: Los Ñires) and headed uphill. As we were rounding a corner, there was a huemul standing in the path about 2 m from us. It looked at us for a minute, then walked a wide circle around us to get back on the trail and head down hill. We then connected back to Var R just before El Hungaro. We passed through the wired gate and found camping at (-47.22544, -72.53908). It was a flat, grassy space in the pine trees a little off the road. It was wind protected, but there was no water nearby.

Day 11 - Mar 7th

We walked back into Cochrane. We were having lunch outside of El Rojito in town and had the pleasure to meet Jakub, Ivan and Daniel. It was really nice to meet some other GPTers along the way.

25-02-26 - 25-03-02/ 5 days / SOBO / RR-OH3a-OH3 / Volker
Very beautiful section with changing landscapes.
Water everywhere, many fords of Estero Ventisquero, all easy), navigation in the CC parts no problem.

I had a bad knee, walked slowly, shortened the section by hitchhiking/taking a bus.

Day 1: I had called Frida (+56 9 4792 9126) the day before, but she was occupied and recommended another driver (+56 9 8464 3768, WhatsApp account is „Sisterna“) and this very nice and funny man drove me at 8 a.m. for 10k eight km along the X265. At the puesto chatted with the arriero, then straightforward CC to the pass, lots of Guanakos, some condors, flamingos and various species of ducks on the lagunas.
After some stormy days no wind at all, so I camped on a pass some 500m away from the RR at S 46.693877° W 71.874276° for the sunset and the sunrise. Nevertheless be careful with the wind!
Day 2: Rejoined the RR at the indicated pass, then down to the small puesto (nobody there), had to climb a fence. After the puesto swampy and another fence. As I walked slowlier than usual with my bad knee, I went the derour (500m) to the next puesto at and asked, if I could buy any food. The very nice arriero asked me to come in and while we drank mate he buke pancitos, which he offered me with some meat. Unfortunately no food to take away. I spent quite a lot of time with him, so I was really lucky, that in the very moment I arrived at the junction with the MR coming from Chile Chico, a Conaf worker passed by with her car and gave me a ride to their check point. If you haven‘t bought a ticket in advance on the Conaf website, you have to do it now (11,5k, they don‘t accept neither cash nor cards, you have to buy it online, using their WIFI). The Lago Jeinemeni is stunning, recommend to make the 1km detour for the mirador. Camped on a nice river bank 1km before Lago Verde.
Day 3: Very pittoresque, many easy fords (2 additional shortly before the indicated one, as Rio Aviles has destroyed the path on the left side of the valley. Camped at the (destroyed) ‚refuge‘ together with two Chileans, who gave me a practical lesson in fishing.
Day 4: Easy and nice on RR down to Casa Piedra. Ibuprofen made it possible, dimming the pain in my knee. However, I had walked too slowly and during too many rests consumed too much of my supplies to continue as planned. So I waited for a bus at 16.30. It stopped for 15 min at Museo/Los West Winds; unfortunately too late for the museum, but a Cafeteria for some resupply! Sandwiches, chocolate, power bars (goes without saying, that not at supermarket prices) - and a better knee allowed for continuing. So I walked in direction of the Los West Winds camping and after some hundred meters went back into the mountains on the Las Lagunas Altas trail. Camp at S 47.127889° W 72.468457°, great spot with view on the distant ridges in the evening sun.
Day 5: The Las Lagunas Altas Trail joins the gpt OH 3a and passes by the lagunas. Without knowing the RR and other options, I very much recommend this trail! After the lagunas at the pass heavy wind and rain started, so instead of walking all the way to Cochrane, together with Thijmen, whom I met 200m after the pass, we went down on OH3 (sector Tamango) to Los West Winds, visited the museum (recommended!) and went to Cochrane with the bus at 5 p.m.

'''2025-02-25 to 2025-03-02 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, variant R,S. Leaving trough option 3,/ Thijmen Scholten'''

* I stayed in Hospedaje Rio Baker in Chile Chico it's cheap and very friendly, recommended.
* The pass/Platform very weather exposed, so check the weather forecast before you go.
* You can camp sheltered just before the pass
* Besides all the guanacos There are also Some nice oyster like stones
* I could not really find a trail on the first part but it's a easy CC at which you do not have to be perfectly on the indicated trail. Just more or less in the same direction.
* I found a truly beautiful stone but forgot it and it's at the source of water source 30.6. it's heavy but I wanted to give it to the people who would take me hitchhiking or at the park entrance office. So if you want this beautiful stone you can take it !
* Camped somewhere next to the river on the way down. Took CC shortcut to bridge at 42.7
* next day hitchhiked , pay entrance , easy walk.
* After camp valley Hermosa there were many river crossings (ankle to knee deep). Best to keep your sandals or (non gortex) shoes on and just accept you will have cold feet in the next hour.
* Camped: 100m before refuge 94.7 at an nice little windfree spot next to the river.
* 7 Laguna's trail. About 1km before end of lake and about 1 and 4km after pass are decent streams to get water from. For the rest only water from the lakes.
* Trail fairly easy to follow in forest because of sawn trunks and in grassland because one plant species grows everywhere expect on the trail.
* Trail is not maintained anymore. Therefore would be nice if everyone did some trail maintenance (remove some branches from trail, break some branches , indicate wrong trail with row of stones etc.
* Internet entell at end of the pass 111.6
* Look out that you don't miss the junction at the last lake.
* Option R: is badly overgrown with spiky Plants and seeds! I went 1/3 of the way and turned back. I would not take it
* Variant 3: is nice and clear. At Valle Chacabuco there is a very nice Museum! And a bus to Cocrane @17.00 cost 15.00 CLP.

''' 2025-FEV-21 > 25 / 4,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 35-02 > 35-03A > 35-03 > 35-R > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : (GPT34)+GPT35
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : parfois difficile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : chenilles urticantes, rivière

J'ai laissé ma machette à Coyhaique pour m'alléger. J'ai dormi à l'hostel Ayékan à Chile Chico puis j'ai commencé la randonnée à 9h. J'ai eu du mal à faire de l'auto-stop mais après 4 km de marche une voiture m'a emmenée au km 8. Il y a pas mal d'eau sur le plateau, bien plus qu'indiqué sur le GPS. Il y avait beaucoup de vent sur le plateau mais il faisait beau alors ça s'est bien passé. J'ai campé au km 36 mais il y avait de petites mouches qui piquent, pas super pour se laver. Malheureusement le vent s'est levé et il a pas mal plu dès 20h alors j'ai passé une nuit difficile. J'ai eu beaucoup de chance et j'ai pu faire du stop du km 45 au km 53. Très peu de voitures sur cette gravel road. Les arbres n'ont plus de feuilles car des chenilles ravagent tout dans le parc (https://laderasur.com/articulo/cuncunas-espinosas-a-la-vista-los-impactos-de-una-especie-que-ha-defoliado-miles-de-hectareas-de-lenga-en-chile/). Comme il a bien plu pendant la nuit, toutes les rivières sont en crues. C'est bien car les sentiers sont désert, mais les ford sont très dangereux. Le ranger et un monsieur du coin m'a dit que je pouvais tout franchir en faisant attention. Il n'y a pas de refuges aux km 81,8, 94,7 et 119,1. A partir du km 98, il n'y a plus de rivière, juste de petits ruisseau vaseux et les lacs bien sûr. Au km 10,4 du 35-R, le bâtiment peu servir de refuge. Il est très propre et je n'ai pas vu de rongeurs malgré la mise en garde. Le seul problème c'est qu'il n'y a pas d'eau. Il a neigé au dessus de 1000m. Je suis arrivé à 10h à Cochrane alors j'ai pris un hotel pour y passer la journée.

'''2025-FEB-16 to 2025-FEB-22 / 7 hiking days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar
'''
Beautiful section! Very special for us, and we were lucky to have good weather! first part had a lot of animals. second part had many tourquize lakes and snowy mountains around+ black caterpillars. third part had pampa terrain and 8 beautiful blue lakes.

Day 1- started walking at noon from Chile Chico. There were a lot of hichhikers, so decided to walk the PR. A dog followed us and slept the night with us at camp (14.1/923).

Day 2- started walking with the dog (even though we tried getting rid of him he was very stubborn). Got to puesto (15.8/1075) and asked Claudio the settler if he would like to adopt the sweet dog, which he happily agreed to. Claudio invited us to watch him slaughter a sheep and for breakfast.
Continued walking, saw many guanacos (they make such silly sounds!), and some flamingos as well. Camped at (-46.722612, -71.904105) like Miamzelt-thanks!. Was a long day for us.

Day 3- walked to national park. Until the MR it can be a bit swampy a times- best to keep near fence for dry feet. Saw many dead guanacos near the fence - was interesting to see their anatomy but also sad because it looks like they get traped in the fence and die miserably.
On MR got a ride for last 10k.
In national park payed online for entrance fee- 11,000 each, free wifi. We asked about whether as well and figured we'll have only 2 more days until it will start raining for many days. We decided we would not want to walk in the rain and try to walk longer days then planed to try and finish before the rain and from Casa Piedra take a hitch. Walked up to valle hermoso camp site- great views on the way a few fords before the campsite- easy but cold.

Day 4- after valle hermoso many fords in the morning- more then written in gps files, easy but cold.
Lovely scenary.
Very high and cool bridge at the end of the day. Shelter 94.7 was a bit dirty, we found a nice cozy spot between the trees sheltered from the wind. About 100 meters before the shelter.

Day 5-: thought this will be our last day- but when we got to Casa Piedra we checked the wether again and no rain for the next few days! Decided to continue as planed at first. The first lake we passed had a lot of rip calafate- delicious and juicy! Slept in (-47.09768, -72.28546) as suggested below. Small stream, wind sheltered by the trees, and flat. Thank you!

Day 6- walked though many lakes. Crazy wind! A tree fell 20 meters from us right on the trail- be alert while walking for sounds of cracking trees! Maybe not a good time for airpods. Slept near the lake in camp 138.4. We later discovered that there are two wood shelters a few meters from where we slept. Was not locked and looked pretty clean.

Day 7- walked to Cochrane. Last kms where with many day hikers. Were Many comfortable places to take a dip in the lake.

'''2025 Feb 02 to Feb 14 / 10 hiking days, 3 zero days / SOBO, NOBO / Hiking / RR, Opt 6 Fachinal / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick notes: The plateau at the beginning of RR is best done in good weather, but definitely worth it; the park is beautiful, though in summer there were a fair amount of people, though less than Cerro Castillo; Opt 6 Fachinal is a really beautiful and adventurous optional route and well worth it, though in our opinion better as an exit than an entrance to the section.

CAMPS:

Night 01: -46.60658, -71.80980 (nice views, water is about 150 m away, can be semi-protected by the hill depending on which way the winds come from)

Night 02: -46.66455, -71.84387 (some wind protection from the hill if the winds come from the west, water is about 170 m away, only really good in good weather)

Night 03: -46.73523, -71.89404 (water is close, not wind protected)

Night 04: El Silencio campground

Night 05 and 06 : Camp Raleigh

Night 07 to 09: Camp Valle Hermoso

Night 10: -46.75834, -72.22028 (good water access, not that wind protected, ground is difficult to get tent stakes into)

Night 11: -46.69923, -72.22451 (some wind protection, water not close)

Night 12: -46.62948, -72.27663 (some wind protection, water about 200 m away)

WATER: water was generally easy to find throughout the section, even on the plateau

Day 01 - Feb 02

We took the bus from Chile Chico. The company was Buses Interlagos, +56 9 9038 6338. We made a reservation. There is a sign in the terminal in Chile Chico that says they leave at 09:00, but when I messaged to make the reservation they said they would leave at 08:00. It is due to regular road closures for road work, so it is recommended to message in advance to get the correct time if you take the bus. Also, the bus driver knew about a trail to Parque Patagonia, but it wasn't the GPT track, so it's good to watch the map to not overshoot. He charged us 2.000 each for the 8 km ride. The route up initially was just a road so easy going. There were multiple places to get water. At Puesto 15.8 we met Claudio who invited us in. His wife and son had passed us going the opposite way as we hiked up. We stayed and talked with Claudio for about an hour. He was very friendly and hospitable. He said a lot of backpackers go through there, some to the park, but a lot for a rock climbing area nearby. We camped at (-46.60658, -71.80980), water was a little ways away. It snowed briefly just before we set up the tent, then cleared up and was sunny for the rest of the day. The night was completely calm.

Day 02 - Feb 03

We headed up to the pass. We followed the OSM track more than the GPT track which worked well. The landscape on the way up was very impressive and we saw our first guanacos. On the plateau it was pretty windy, but as others have said, there are spots where the topography shields you from the wind and you can get a break from it. We had seen on Windy before leaving that the next day on the plateau was supposed to be essentially windless and with full sun, so we wanted to stay for the night. We found a spot that was protected from the prevailing winds which were from the west that day and had a peaceful night.

Day 03 - Feb 04

We woke up to a silent morning that was quite warm. We took the whole day to walk across the plateau, carefully observed by guanacos the whole way. They seemed to work in shifts with at least one acting as lookout at all times. We found it very endearing. We stopped at a lake for lunch and watched 8 flamingos there as well as other birds. We also came across a curious hill that appeared to be made largely of giant ancient seashells. They looked like oyster shells, and some still looked like they had bits of mother of pearl on the inside. It was just the one hill. The descent was easy, gradual and with nice views. We found camping a little below camp 32.6 in a grassy area near the stream. It was not wind protected but we had a quiet night.

Day 04 - Feb 05

We wrapped up camp quickly, just before it started raining. We went under a fence and did CC between the GPT track and the OSM track. Around km 36.6, just before where the OSM and GPT tracks join, we found a well maintained trail that was not on the map that led down to a puesto. The man who lives there, Leopoldo, was friendly. He opened the gate for us and took us to another gate close by and pointed us to a 2 track road that rejoined with the GPT track after about 500 m. On the main road to the park, few cars passed and they were all full. We had lunch at the Bridge 42.7. The Camp 42.9 looked reasonably good, but it was visible from the road, so not that private. We walked about 1 km before we finally caught a hitch to the park entrance. The park office had an open StarLink wifi network. We bought tickets, 11.400 each. Camping 53.3, Camping El Silencio, was free. Each site had a covered area with tables and benches. Water spigots at the sites were not working so we took water from the outflow of the lake next to the bridge. The caterpillar apocalypse was definitely not overstated. Live, dead, dying, they were everywhere, most ominously in some places as enormous mounds of dead ones, like something out of a horror movie. The park office had to close the main bathrooms due to them and opened a temporary one at the office. They let us charge our devices in the office overnight and pick them up in the morning.

Day 05 - Feb 06

We had a short day just hiking to Camp Raleigh. We stopped and had lunch on the beach of Lago Jenimeni. We passed several groups of day hikers on the way, but were the only ones called for the night. The caterpillars were not as bad there.

Day 06 - Feb 07

We took a zero day to wait out an all day rain event. Two other groups showed up part way through the day, one going either direction. Both intended to keep moving but after two hours of waiting and no break in the rain, they both decided to stay and move the next day.

Day 07 - Feb 08

The hike to Valle Hermoso was fairly easy. All fords were below the knee. At the last ford we went a little higher up and towards a small beach as the direct crossing to the trail marker was quite deep. Up to the pass was easy. On the way down the other side there were a few areas where it was steep and the trail was covered in scree, and a few places where the trail had been washed out, but nothing very difficult. There were some amazing views on the way down. All the fords until the camp were knee deep or below. Four other groups were staying at Valle Hermoso camp that night.

Day 08 - Feb 09

We took another zero day to wait out another all day rain event. All but one of the other groups stayed as well. The river went up about 15 cm over the course of the day and turned completely brown from all the sediment.

Day 09 - Feb 10

We had intended to do some exploration toward Opt 7 Mallin Grande because Garmin weather report said it was supposed to be partly sunny for the day. It turned out to be very cloudy with high winds and very cold, alternating light rain and some snow. The valley was also mostly covered in clouds and fog so we decided to just take another zero day.

Day 10 - Feb 11

We had good weather in the morning. We left for Opt 6 Fachinal. It was a really beautiful walk up. We were in water shoes until the first lake as there were many stream crossings. The first lake is a popular side trip from Valle Hermoso. One of the Chileans at the campsite mentioned that the valley was called Valle de los Glaciers. I'm not sure if that's an official name or just a common name, but we did see three huge glaciers, one above Ventisquero, and the other above the second lake. We passed a private refuge (-46.79249, -72.20797) that was locked, however they had prepped camp sites and an outhouse with running water, so it was possible to use the outdoor facilities if no one was there (if you use the toilet or sink, the water gate is down on the floor to the left of the toilet). It was too early to stop so we continued on. The trail around the bowl above the lake was faint but we were able to follow it. Over the pass the next valley opens up and is mostly flat. A lot of it was wetland, but we were able to find dry foot crossings by staying more on the west side. Occasionally we would come across a bit of trail and then it would disappear again. Around (-46.76362, -72.22212) where the track turns sharply east before heading north again, we switched to water shoes to cross the river. After that point we just left them on. As the track goes north again it enters a shallow canyon and we had to cross back and forth several times. We found a place to set up the tent near the stream at (-46.75834, -72.22028). A very short distance away (-46.75795, -72.22048) was a spot under some trees that was too small for an X-Mid 2, but would be nice for a 1-person tent or a smaller 2-person tent. It was fairly flat with nothing spikey and had great wind protection.

Day 11 - Feb 12

We started the day in water shoes. All the way to the pass we crossed back and forth across the stream. It was never deeper than half-calf, and no serious current. There is a really beautiful lake at the top just before they pass. There is a trail along the west side, but it was so overgrown and muddy that we just walked in the water along the edge of the lake. The pass is a low pass. Going down the other side we struggled through a lot of it. We would find what looked like a good trail and follow it, and then it would just abruptly end leaving us to bushwack for some distance before finding another piece of it. It was strange how some sections would look almost meticulously maintained and then suddenly it would look as if there had never been a trail at all. The track files were very helpful, especially since there were other trail sections that led in different directions. At (-46.69923, -72.22451) there was an abandoned puesto with a single grave next to it. We camped inside the corral of the puesto. Just before it we had passed by the second private refuge. That one did not have as good of quality campsites and the toilet was a latrine with no water. Water access was further down the trail in the direction of the first Tyrolean traverse. That last 400 m is currently marked as CC in the track files, however a trail now exists there and is very easy to follow.

Day 12 - Feb 13

We got up early to do the first ford. Water was crotch height (we're both about 165 cm) and with a good amount of current. The water was icy cold, milky and so hard to see through, and the bottom of the river had very large rocks so it was very uneven. It was one of the more challenging fords we've done. There is a second ford point listed in the track files, but we would not recommend using that point. It looks like a much easier ford, however in the far side there is a rock slide with very large rocks between it and the way to go forward on the trail. It looked to us like the area around the Tyrolean traverse was the only suitable place to cross. After the cross the trail follows the river for a couple hundred meters then heads very steeply up for a few hundred meters. Once up it was fairly easy to follow the trails, but we recommend again keeping an eye on the GPS as there were several trails, and while they often reconnected, sometimes they didn't. The second ford was just above the knee and with less current than the first, much easier for us. There was a flat area that would be good for camping on the far side. The trail then passed through open forest with a fairly clear trail, and through a few pastures where the trail disappeared. There seems to be less trail maintenance than in previous reports with a lot of downed trees not cleared. At around km 31 the trail heads downhill along a fence. There is a path that goes left to stay on the trail or goes right. We went right about 100 m and found an old puesto that has been completely broken down, but that has a nice flat area (-46.62948, -72.27663). We camped there for the night. Water was back out along the track through the fence. There was a side stream feeding into the river.

Day 13 - Feb 14

We had to use water shoes to ford the side stream as even in the morning we couldn't find a suitable place to cross dry foot. The day was warm and sunny and the trail was very pleasant. In a few places other trails showed up. They usually rejoined later. A section of the GPT track had been washed out by the river, so there were a few CC areas. Towards the end the trail passes through an area where a fire has gone through a few years prior. We made it down to the road around 14:00. Hitching was not easy. Very few cars passed by and nearly all of them were full. After about two and a half hours someone picked us up and dropped us off in Puerto Guadal.

We really enjoyed Opt 6 Fachinal and were very happy we chose to walk it. It was beautiful and had a varied landscape, and it felt very “GPT” compared to the park routes. We didn't see anyone else while we were on it. However we would recommend it as an exit since there is a lot of up and down and BB in parts that would be much easier without a full resupply. We would also recommend, if going NOBO, knowing the schedule for buses that pass along the road as it did seem that hitchhiking was not easy, and it was about 45 km or so of rather unpleasant, exposed and dusty road walking in either direction to the nearest towns. During the 24/25 season there were supposedly buses passing one direction or the other at least once during the day every day except Saturday.

''' 2025-Jan-28 to 2025-Jan-30/3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RH / Davide Materia '''

I pretty much had the same experience of MiamZelt, with same camping locations as him.
Details:
1- day. I would probably camp either a bit up than were he suggested, or a bit further down, as there are spots of grass created by dried pond, which if dry enough are perfect location for a tent, in general the location of the first camp is not ideal, many rocks and not that easy to find a spot. This mountain can get pretty windy, I would in general restrain myself from starting the section in bad weather, as even in good weather the wind is really strong, this also suggest why good care must be paid for the location of the tent.
2 trail is next to impossible to keep without gps, I doubt it even exist a real single trail. One good trick here is to jump over the fence and stay always on the right but following the fence until the gpx track and the former diverge. At that point there is a bit more of "grass-bashing" but you are getting closer to the off-track road. For the rest, I hitchhiked to the park once I reached the road and went to camping valle Hermosa, and damn Hermosa it was!!! Resting next to the river under the sun was the best moment in this section.
3 I kept following the track. Many fordings, more than the 2nd day. Luckily I restrained myself from the temptation of packrafting the river beside the trail as ~15km before Casa Piedra it gets inside canyons and becomes a deathtrap, there's a reason if Jan didn't do it by packraft, as always.
Camping Casa Piedra actually has hot shower if the stove warming up the water has been turned on quite in advance, no such luck for me...

4-The next day after deciding to not do Rio chacabuco given all the bad reports of previous years I hiked around 2 hours on the road until some locals picked me up to cochrane.

Awesome section, one I will remember for a long time

'''2025-Jan-23 to 2025-Jan-28 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Sean & Neele'''

Took the bus at 9am to skip the paved road walk.

After puesto 15.8km the gpx files are CC but there's a trail on OSM which we loosely followed to pass 20.8km, worked out well.

Very exposed and windy from 19km to 32km.

Camp 32.6km was wet, we camped about 500m further.

Got a hitch around 43.5km to park ranger 53km. Paid 11,400 each entrance.

Camp 53.3km and 61.7km have been taken over by caterpillars.

Ford 66.4km about knee deep at about 6pm on a rainy day.

Camped at valle hermosa 68.1km - well sheltered in the forest but lots of people.

Fords 68.4 - 71.6km, 79.3, 82.6, 86.2 all below the knee and easy in the morning after a rainy day.

Camped at 88.6km - slight protected from the wind.

Camped at 98.9km Casa Piedra to wait out some bad weather. 8k pp. WiFi, cooking room, warm showers.

Camped at Refuge 118.3km some wind protection but not great.

Easy walk out, camp 136.9km looked nice we debated staying but walked out instead.
Trail condition is really good after 139.1km so is pretty fast

*'''2025-Jan-13 to 2025-Jan-17 / 5 days Hiking / SOBO/ RR + Variant L / MiaimZelt'''

I very much enjoyed this lovely section. Took the bus to skip the first 6.5km of Roadwalk. CC was indeed easy, on the way up i didn't follow the Track very closely. Crazy windy between km 19-30. Surprinsingly there were some small areas that had way less wind. Guess it should be possible to find a campspot somehow sheltered by the curves of the landscape, when you can't make it further. Camp {35} [32.6/1300] is exposed and has no shelter besides from the tiny stonewall. Camped here: -46.722612, -71.904105. Was sheltered by the valley and fits a 1 person tent, wind was ok. 100m below there is a spot which can fit a 2 person tent. While sitting in the tent 2 german GPT hikers arrived and took the spot below. I very much enjoyed their company.

Day 2 i could follow animal trails very often. Walked 4km on the road until i got a hitch. Entrance fee was 11400 for foreigner. You have to pay online, but they have WiFi. Tons of black caterpillars everywhere, gets better after Laguna Verde. Trail was in very good shape. Ford {35} [67.0/877] was up to the knees. Stayed at Camp Valle Hermoso, which is very good sheltered by the forest.

Day 3 i met no one, until i reached the camp. Trail was 99% in good shape, few meters overgrown with young beech trees. -46.89382, -72.161099 campspots with shelter from the forest. All fords were easy. Stayed at Camping Casa Piedra. 8000 per person, can pay cash or card. They have WiFi, Room to cook inside and a shower (not hot). Most campspots are sheltered by trees or buildings. Spots next to buildings were occupied by carcampers. Trees provided good protection, although 80km/h winds according to Windy.

Sendero 7 Lagunas was mostly in good to ok shape,
only in few parts the trail isn't visible at all. -47.094236, -72.286568 near pass has lots of flat space and is sheltered by the forest. Small stream here: -47.097866, -72.285581. Also flat areas nearby to create a makeshift campsite. Later the only sources for water were the lakes. Refuge, X {35} [119.1/716] is collapsed, but flat space protected by trees and bushes for one bigger tent. Water from the lake. Stayed at small flat space with very little wind here -47.140176, -72.372035 and listened to the birds.

Day 5 was mostly straight forward. Saw 2 Huemuls near the Minor Road. Lago Cochrane is a real gem. Open and abandoned huts here: -47.198091, -72.457465. There was a sign, saying danger becaus of rodents. Maybe not good to sleep in, but would be a good shelter in heavy rain. 1km later i saw the first dayhikers. Lot's of steep ups and downs at Sendero Carpinteros, but very beautiful. Got a hitch to Cochrane after 1.5km on the paved road.

*'''GPT 35 SOBO RR // hiking, hitchhiking // 4 days 1-4.01.2025 Maks & Gabi'''

Simply magical section with lots of guanacos, birds and beautiful landscapes. We hitchhiked the first 8 km and then from Casa de Piedra to Cochrane.
CC parts were quite easy and visible, later on when entering the park by Lago Jeinimeni the trail is incredibly well maintained. You can buy a ticket by the entrance because the is a wi-fi.

One thing that is worth taking into account when planning the hike, are insects - there are tons of mosquitos and quite a lot of horseflies. Furthermore the ranger (Jeinimeni entrance) warned us about black worms that are in the forests (not sure what is the name in eng). For that reason we did not sleep at the camping by the lake (see pictures), choosing a camp spot by the bridge at 50.0 km instead. It is better not to camp by the trees.
If you have a spare moment we really recommend the visitors center near Casa de Piedra as they have a really nice museum. If you already bought a ticket to the park it is free of charge.

About trail itself it's hard to say something new compare to the previous notes. There was no snow, all ford's easy to cross.

*'''2024-Nov-08 to 2024-Nov-16 / 8.5 / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Jonas'''
Day 01: 08.11.2024
Arrived by ferry from Puerto Ibanez in Chile Chico at 1430. Started walking right away. Caught a ride for about 3 km. After street, needed to open fence and door.
Dog kept following all day. Couldn't make him leave.
Settlers (mother & daughter) offered a ride but kept walking. Camp spot at 14.1 was too wet to stay there. Looked for another spot. Nothing was good, wanted to look after puesto at 15.8. settlers offered me mate and asked if I wanna pitch my tent here since it got late. Stayed close to their place. Same settler family who offered me a ride.

Day 02: 09.11.2024
Starting from the settlers puesto CC had light snow when packing my tent. Didn't follow the route exactly. On the way to the first pass, saw the first guanacos. Started snowing stronger. Didn't follow the track or the OSM path to avoid snowfields. Tried to follow the trails but not always possible. Stronger snow and windy. After the first pass went too far to the east to avoid snowfields, thought it'd be easy to come back to the trail but took a longer detour. At least saw the first flamingos! In the plateau it was crazy windy. Sometimes followed track, sometimes OSM. Often in between because of snowfields. Snowfields were not steep, just wanted to avoid them. More guanacos only on the way down. Camp at 32.6 was too wet. ~250 m further down found a protected spot close to a small river/creek.

Day 03: 10.11.2024
Woke up late. Water in pot was frozen about 1 cm thick. Walked down, saw a lot of bones. Followed not the OSM track. Crossed the fence relatively far to the west. CC walking was nice. Maybe as others mentioned there is a path sooner if you cross/stay further east. Hit the dirt road and walked to the main dirt road. Already afternoon. First Pick Up stopped and gave me a ride to the park entrance. Didn't book the ticket before. You can book it at the CONAF station with their WiFi for the same day. 11.400 CLP for the entrance. Camping is free. Walked to camp Raleigh (about two hours) and found a nice spot there.

Day04: 11.11.2024
Short day. Started late, trail easy to follow. In the beginning keep left if other trails are there. First fording section is well marked in the track files. Keep your shoes off until Ford Stop. Climb to pass is sometimes steep but easy. Climb down is ready with stunning view of Valle Hermoso. Some parts with some rock slides. After descend two rivers to ford. Until camp Valle Hermoso some stretches in wind protected first in the river bed, some stretches in open river bed. Easy to follow. Camp Valle Hermoso has two roofed areas.

Day 05 12.11.2024
Started from camp Valle Hermoso. If you keep south you can avoid all the fords. At least at this time of the year.
Trail is easy walking, landscape is stunning! Did a detour to Laguna Escondida. Nice and windy up there. To get there keep close to the track files.
Only needed to take the boots off for the ford at 79.3. The rest was easy to navigate around or enough rocks/trees in the river.
Camped at refuge 81.0 at the broken down cabin.

Day 06: 13.11.2024
Easy walking all day. Trail was easy to follow. Needed to ford once.
The bridge at 90.9 is something if you're afraid of heights.
Arrived early at Casa Piedra. Could use the infrastructure including warmish water. Since I said I won't pass the ranger station it was fine without paying.

Day 07: 14.11.2024
Trail is easy to follow. Lago Gutierrez looks amazing and quite windy. Some beach walking off track is nice. After Lago Gutierrez the trail is mainly easy to follow. Checked the GPS every now and then. Climb to the pass takes some time. Filled water up at a stream at the end of Lago Gutierrez. There was on running stream in the middle of the stretch to the pass. Not sure if it has water all year. Way down is through a beautiful forest. Nice views of the valley along the way. Some trees on the path but easy enough to climb them or walk around them.
Stayed at the collapsed refuge. Enough wind protection even though it was quite windy.

Day 08: 15.11.2024
Trail was easy to follow in the forest. Outside the forest check your GPS when you think you might be off trail.
Water in the beginning mainly from the lakes, later streams existed as well. Took the MR on the RR easy fast walking, no GPS checking necessary. Settler at 138.7 wasn't there passed by his house and followed the RR on a horse trail. Camped at around 142 at Lago Cochrane. Beautiful lake with clear water.

Day 09: 16.11.2024
For the last 12 km it was easy to follow the trail. Quite some up and down. Nice views on the lake. Arrived the CONAF office at lunch time. Did a self checkout. Stayed in Cochrane for two nights before the next bus to Villa O'Higgins left.

Really nice hike! Due to the time of the year I only met one other hiker. It snowed a bit in the first days but not too much. Trails were generally easy to follow. Fording was not too much, might be different at another time.

* '''2024-Dec-14 to 2024-Dec-18 / 4.5 / Hiking / SOBO/ RR + Variant J, L / Roman'''

Route: Hitchhiked from Chile Chico to X {35} [8.1/505]. Hiked to X {35} [41.5/768]. Hitchhiked from there to Park Ranger {35} [53.0/843] and hiked from there to -47.244414, -72.529165 and hitchhiked from there to Cochrane.

Started in the Morning in Chile Chico and and started hiking at X {35} [8.1/505]. It's a small easy hiking road up to Puesto {35} [15.8/1075]. It's easy CC. I camped at Camp {35} [32.6/1300]. The next day was a easy hike to X {35} [41.5/768]. I was waiting 25 minutes for the first car to come by which picked me up around 11:30 AM - so prepared to either walk or wait quite some time. At the Ranger Station (Park Ranger {35} [53.0/843]) is fesh water, a toilet. There you have free internet via starlink. I have heard multiple stories and read multiple prices for entry. I would recommend to just show up. You will scan the QR code and buy the ticket online. I said that I hike to "Casa Piedra camping". I had to buy the ticket "Parque Nacional Patagonia - Sector Chacabuco" for 5.200 CLP. Link here: https://tickets.pasesparques.cl/events/parque-nacional-patagonia-sector-chacabuco . From there i hiked to Camped at Refuge {35} [69.0/867] there are multiple fordings (river bed walking) which had a few banks and tables and a shelter hut. The next day hiked to Camp $, Refuge {35} [99.8/379] (Casa dePiedra). The Camp has electricity and a warm (not hot ;)) shower and toilets and 3 rooms with benches and tables for cooking etc. I was staying there with 2 other people and the Ranger. Apparently the Ranger doesn't collect/want money - i/we didn't needed to pay. There is Apparently a lady coming from time to time to collect a fee - so we were lucky. The trail was maintained and easy to hike. At the beginning there was some fording.

The next day I camped at Refuge {35} [131.2/556] which is only a emergency shelter but has some flat spots to pich a tent. The trail is not maintained and is sometimes very good or not visible at all - you need you GPS! Overall good easy to hike with some fallen trees. There is a bridge at -47.160823, -72.407796 also with water which makes the Refuge a great place to say. Picture of bridge https://imgur.com/a/ZydIQ7f and Refuge: https://imgur.com/a/NDMT0FP . After that it's a easy hike all the way to -47.244414, -72.529165 where I hitchhiked to Cochrane. I haven't camped there but this location looked like the best stay you could get in the trail here: https://imgur.com/a/rtak82Q. -47.198106, -72.457406 close to Camp {35} [138.4/173].

Stayed at Camping, Refugio ,Cabaña y HostelCochrane which i can highly recommend (camping 7k, dorm 9k, laundry 5k and a supermarket across the street)

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* ''' 2024-Dec-13 to 2024-Dec-17 / 5 days / GPT35 SOBO RR / wiiiim
Relatively uncomplicated & fast section, lots of info exists so just a summary here. In essence it feels like 3 parts

- part 1 Chile Chico to the park entrance: mostly cross country over a barren plateau with lots of animals. I arranged a taxi out of Chile Chico to skip the first 9km of road walk at 7am for an early start - Alexis +56 9 7971 5823. Surprisingly lots of water on this section.

- part 2 Park entrance to Casa de Piedra, park fee is 11400, very easy going, well marked trail, lots of water

- part 3 Casa de piedra to Cochrane, somewhat overgrown, less water, mostly from the lagunas so good to have a filter

I took the bus from Cochrane to Villa O’Higgins, it runs every Monday, Wednesday & Saturday at 8:30am (returning the next day), it’s a small publicly funded bus (8400 pesos) with about 25 seats, they typically want you to buy a ticket in person in Cochrane in the bus terminal upstairs (I believe the company is Gardy?), I got a ticket the afternoon before and it had 5 seats left.

* ''' 2024-Dec-12 to 2024-Dec-14 / 3 days go and back / GPT35 SOBO option 1 by car and Regular Road with a little part of option D and OH-CC-A-{35-06} to the first laguna/ Julien Mamari

All the way to the Releigh Camp is really easy and try with bridges.
Into the Releigh Camp and the 3rd camp you have 2 rivers to cross with the Gloria pass but it's really easy with sandals... Water to the knees maximum (on my time)
If you go to the first Laguna (option 6) on the right sise of valley better beguin on the left side for around 1km then you have obligation to cross and the best its to keep always on de right side, it's dry.

* '''2024-Nov-07 to 2024-Nov-10 / 4 days with one day of rest at home of Daniel “Huemul” / GPT35 Regular Route SOBO from Kilometer 100 to 150 / Sendero 7 Lagunas / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

This scenic route inside Parque Patagonia is officially closed due to lack of trail maintenance but still easily traversable. As we entered from the north we did not speak with any Conaf personnel and learned about the closure when exiting this route in Cochrane.

The GPT track file 2024 precisely documents the official route of Sendero 7 Lagunas from Kilometer 37 to Kilometer 5 (GPT35 Regular Route) where the Regular Route connects on other trails to Cochrane. Note that the OSM data is in large parts incorrect. OSM is showing a now partially overgrown and less attractive routing on disused trails and minor roads. So all topographic maps based on OSM data are unreliable in this respect.

About 30% of the trail is clearly visible, about 60% of the trail is vaguely visible and 10% of the trail are invisible as trail. There is just a trail mark every kilometer but no other visual aids to follow the official trail. This makes frequent GPS verifications essential. Without a GPS and without the correct tracks loaded to the GPS hikers get inevitably lost numerous times and it would be very time consuming to find the correct trail just based on visual references. But with a GPS it’s easy to stay on the trail.

There was no snow left on the 1126 m high pass.

In the forest numerous fallen trees block the trail but there is always an easy way around.

There are no noteworthy river crossings and the trail is dry. Water can be obtained regularly at smaller streams or at the lakes.

There are numerous potential camp sites except from the northern trail head and the 1126 m high pass. This northern end is mostly wind exposed with very little shelter to pitch a tent.

* '''2024-Nov-02 to 2024-Nov-05 / 4 days (but 50 km hitchhiked) / Hiking / SOBO / Option 4 (Ruta RP41 in Argentina) / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

This option provides an alternative to the weather-exposed regular route of GPT35. Therefore this option should be considered early or late in the season (October, November or April) or whenever poor weather makes the regular route of GPT35 unsafe. This option is east of the Andes main mountain chain in Argentina and the clouds that typically come from the west unload most snow and rain while crossing the higher peaks in Chile. Anyway, the maximum altitude of just under 1500 m should not be undermined. Up on the pass area, weather can become unpleasant all year around.

This road walking option is certainly not as attractive as the regular route but the insignificant traffic and the scenic scenery makes it a worthwhile hiking choice. The landscape is that attractive that one tour company in Los Antiguos offers guided excursions along this route.

This option connects back to regular route of GPT35 at the trailhead of “Sendero 7 Lagunas” that becomes also traversable early in the season (October or November).

Route description:

The border crossing from Chile to Argentina is a 13 km hike or hitchhike as there is not organized public transport. Argentines rarely check luggage of backpackers, therefore bringing all supplies from Chile should not cause problems. Don’t be surprised when Argentine border controls don’t stamp your passport on entry. It’s not any more a given, that all travelers with passports receive an entry stamp when crossing into Argentina.

Before starting on RP41 consider a good meal in Los Antiguos.

The first 43 km on RP41 from Los Antiguos to Estancia Los Alamos are wind-exposed and dry. We were lucky to ride most of this stretch on the back of a pickups truck. From the road we could only see one more reliable water source at kilometer 39.5. And descending 100 to 200 m into gorge of Rio Jenimeni just to refill water supplies seams an ordeal that should be avoided.

The owners of Estancia Los Alamos are welcoming and helpful. We were invited for lunch and offered a bed for a night. But to get moving we opted to start hiking in the afternoon.

Estancia La Frontera at kilometer 46 of RP41 just after the bridge over Rio Zaballos seams also to offer accommodation on request. And here starts the more scenic part with patches of forest and more regular water streams crossing the road.

At kilometer 54 of RP41 by-passes are welcome to camp just next to Rio Lincoln. Here we spend our first night.

At kilometer 64 of RP41 the last patches of forest are left behind and exposed but scenic landscape is crossed.

The highest point of RP41 (“portezuelo”) is reached at kilometer 76 with just under 1500 m. The last snowmelt washed a part of road away stopping currently most transit traffic but hikers and bikers can cross this damaged road section without problems.

While walking from Rio Lincoln up to the “portezuelo” the wind and the light snowfall increased. But compared to the weather in Chile at the same time our conditions where quite manageable. The lack of wind-sheltered places keep us moving to kilometer 79 of RP41. Here, an unlocked puesto with a wood stove provided a surprisingly convenient shelter for our second night en route. We just had to seal some gaps in the walls to reduce the wind and snow from entering our temporary refuge. When getting up on the next morning a thin layer of fresh snow covered everything around us.

The descent to Paso Roballos at kilometer 96 of RP41 traverses open but scenic landscape with little natural shelter.

The best places to camp after the pass are:
Kilometer 79: unlocked puesto
Kilometer 87: maybe near puesto at 47°06'47"S 71°50'00"W
Kilometer 96: the crossing to Paso Roballos 2 km before the Argentine border control

At the Argentine border control camping is not permitted.

When exiting Argentina make sure to get an exit stamp. This stamp is required to enter into Chile.

Another good option is the abandoned Chilean military post 4 km after the Argentine border control. Most buildings of this small compound are sealed closed but one shelter is open and one mostly closed veranda provided good shelter for us for one night while rain and snow made pitching a tent less pleasant.

The Chilean border control is 11 km inland from the border.

From the Chilean border control it’s another 26 km to the trail head of “Sendero 7 Lagunas” with a brilliant camp site halfway (“camping alto valle”).

* '''Note:''' The RR was changed between Lago Jeinemeni and Lago Verge in October 2024, so numbering of options in the reports below might be slightly off.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024 Mar 14 to 2024 Mar 19 / 5.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Maddi and Tom'''

Day 1: Hiked out of Cochrane after lunch in light rain. Hiked up Sendero Las Aguilas then Las Lengas, easy trail and well defined. Rain got heavier as we approached Laguna El Cangrejo. Camped on the west side of the lake, started snowing lightly as we set up. One of the colder nights and we considered turning back and taking the lower route as we weren't sure how passable Laguna Altas would be in the snow.

Day 2: Woke up to a snowy morning so decided to wait it out in the tent. Packed up once it stopped around 11am and followed Sendero Los Condores. Luckily had a bit of sun as we went over the pass but as we were coming down the other side the rain and wind picked up. Abandoned our plans to hike the Lagunas Altas circuit and instead followed it straight down to Westwind campsite. Sat there for a bit hoping to see a puma but only guanaco in sight. Hiked towards Valle Chacabuco hoping for a hitch but no cars came past. Kept walking along Paso Roballos trying for a hitch, eventually a couple from the UK picked us up and dropped us at Casa Piedra. Spent the night there and got a hot shower which was excellent after all the rain and snow. Didn't end up paying any entry fees for the park or the camping as noone asked.

Day 3: Got up fairly early to overcast day but no rain. Followed the eastern branch of the Sendero Aviles which was clearly marked and easy to follow. The bridge over the canyon is fun to rejoin the west branch of the trail. Kept following the track along, easy going until you hit the river bed and then there are many crossings back and forth. We did a bit of dodgy scrambling up the banks to avoid getting wet feet. We were going to push on but it started raining lightly about 4pm so we set up camp in the trees along the river. Another group joined us later that night as it was raining heavily and it was the first flat and clear spot.

Day 4: Started along the track, excellent views as you pass Cerro Jeinimeni. Fairly easy track down to the next river, followed by a lot of walking in the river bed. Gave in and just walked through the water to Lago Verde. Crossings were never really over ankle deep. Track around Lago Verde is fine to follow with excellent views. Very windy as we got over the pass and the path down is quite eroded (but manageable). Hiked around to Raleigh. There is a new suspension bridge over the river at Raleigh that connects to Sendero Laguna Esmerelda. It isn't marked on Gaia or Maps Me so a group behind us went around the other way and had to do a hip deep river crossing. Going via Raleigh and Sendero Esmerelda avoids all river crossings and is an easy track to follow. Hiked all the way to El Silencio for the night, noone there so didn't pay any fees.

Day 5: Started the hike out along the road hoping for a hitch but no cars went by. Headed up the plateau following a minor road, then relying on GPS and animal tracks. Lots of guanaco. Kept hiking up the hill as the wind picked up. Found a camp spot somewhat out of the wind towards the top of the plateau with a small river passing by for water. Started snowing as we went to sleep.

Day 6: Woke up to a few cms of snow on the ground and tent and started a very frosty walk up and over the plateau. Lots of guanaco around but not much else other than snow. Luckily the sun came out as we were coming back down the other side as it was freezing up the top and was difficult navigating with the snow cover. Once it cleared we had awesome views of the Torres de Avellano and the lake. The descent track is pretty eroded and very slippery in parts where mud is hidden under small stones. Eventually joined up to the minor road and followed it down to Ruta 265. I had a weird phenomenon with my shoes picking up enormous amounts of sticky mud on the minor road, making my feet a few kgs heavier and having to scrape it off every 100m. Got a hitch to Chile Chico from Ruta 265.

* '''2024-Mar-12 to 2024-Mar-17 / 4 + 2×0.5 = 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH D + F / Joscha'''

Day 1: RR [0.0-16.7]

I startet around 2 pm and did not try to hitch the first 8 km on the primary road. There is a good flowing stream at the water marker (km 12.2) and at the camp (km 14.1). The flat spot that is camp 14.1 is swampy and therefore not ideal for camping. I camped at -46.60658, -71.80980 which is at least a little bit wind protected. There is also a stream on the other side of the RR close to this spot.

Day 2: RR [16.7-48.2]

There was plenty of water. The RR was covered in snow from about km 23 to 28. I took a CC shortcut from km 40.8 to 42.7. I camped at -46.810258, -71.965073.

Day 3: RR [48.2-59.1] + OSM trail to Laguna Verde + OH35-D + RR [62.4-88.9] + OH35-F + RR [70.3-78.9]

The park gate at km 50.1 is open from 9 am to 5 pm. But the ranger didn't mind, that I entered before 9 am. I paid 17000 Pesos at the ranger station (km 53). This fee allows camping at all the Campgrounds in the park. I followed the official park trail which branches off at km 59,1 to Laguna Verde. From there it returns via OH35-D to the RR. All fords today were below my knees. After km 75.5 the RR was partially flooded and you had to walk through some branches. Therefore I sometimes walked in the river bed on the eastern side of Rio Aviles. I camped at km 78.9. Its an official campground of the park, but there is nothing. But its flat and wind protected.

Day 4: RR [78.9-106.3]

The roof of the refuge at km 93.9 is collapsed. Casa de Piedra is a real house with bathrooms and some common rooms to hang out and probably sleep. I camped on the lakeshore at -47.074614, -72.25701. I would not recommend this spot for windy nights.

Day 5: RR [106.3-137.6]

The next reliable water source after Lago Gutierrez (km 106.3) is a stream at km 113.8. Its possible to camp just south of the pass (km 110.8). I did a shortcut from km 129.1 to 130.3. I had to cross a small swampy area for that. Camping at km 137.6 is nice.

Day 6: RR [137.6-150.4]

Nice campsite at km 146.0 (RN Tamango) with sheltered tables and spots for camping. I stayed at camping calafate in Cochrane (-47.254013, -72.568419). It has a kitchen with common area (heated by wood oven), wifi and hot showers for 7000 pp.

* '''2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Mar-01 / 6.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RR+RP / Lauren & Seb'''

Much has been said about this section, so we will share only our impressions.

Day 1: After reaching wp Settler {35} [8.9/539] by taxi in the early evening, we hiked a short distance and camped at wp Camp {35} [14.1/923]. On a windy day it’s basically unprotected in a narrow valley. There was no wind that day, making it a spot with a great view.

Day 2: Upon reaching the plateau, it felt like a guanaco/flamencos safari as previously described. To get up there, you have to CC on one manageable steep stretch. Follow the dotted line in OSM relatively far to the left and not the GPT files. We camped north of wp Water {35} [28.1/1579].

Day 3: We headed across the pass and amazing views opened up before us. On the downhill, follow the GPT line until you reach a fence. Go through the fence on the left end and follow the fence line towards wp Puesto {35} [34.6/1191]. From the side of the puesto, you can easily follow well trodded horse tracks along the fence line until -46.75064, -71.89899. Follow the trails along the river towards the south until you hit the MR. We stopped for the night at wp Camp {35} [42.9+0.2/713].

Day 4: Cars did not appear until after 10am but we eventually got a ride to the park entrance. From here, the more touristy part begins. Once inside the park we decided to walk the MR around Lago Jeinemeni and only inflated the packraft at Lago Verde. This was an absolutely great paddle on the most turquoise waters and we were lucky with the afternoon wind. We stayed the night at Refuge {35} [68.1/867].

Day 5: The next part has lots of fording so expect slow progress. We left our crocs on for the next 3 km. Well marked trail through the forest and across the pass. On the other side, however there is a new official route which starts here -46.87696, -72.17213 and requires more fording. The old trail still exists and no fording was necessary. Stick to the GPS here if you want to save time taking your shoes off! The rest of the way down the valley was enjoyable and we stayed the night just before wp Ford {35} [82.6/805].

Day 6: Easy hiking down to Camp Piedra where we stayed and camped early.

Day 7: We started paddling Rio Chacabuco the next morning, but I would advise packrafters against doing so (at least in the late season). Conditions of the river included low water levels with frequent ground contact and many trees in the water. The river splits often, making the already low water even lower and obstacles in the tightly winding corners become even more tricky. First time that we hit a tree since we are on the GPT. As if that wasn’t enough, wind picked up early and forced us out of the water. We decided to water-out here -47.05177, -72.29040 and hiked up the road, where a car took us towards Cochrane after 2 hours.

* '''2024-Feb-27 to 2024-Mar-04 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {35-S} - {35-D} - RR - {35-J} - RR - {35-L} - RR / Lilian & Rainbow '''

Safari = GPT35, we saw foxes, bunny, flamingos, ostrich, owl, woodpecker, and more than 100 guanacos at this section!

We standing at the end of town more than 1 hour and found that it is really difficult to hitch out by low traffic. So we go to tourist information ask for help maybe a ride, a man at there said he can take us to x[8.1/505] for 10k CLP, but lastly he just took us to the junction at km5.9, and said he don't want to drive on a non paved road, then don't wait us to respond and throw our backpacks out from his car immediately, and ask for the money.

So, DON'T ask any ride in tourist information at Chile Chico, they cheated our trust.

Km12 : flat spot (-46.57669, -71.82779) can fit some tents at other side of a stream, the stream is flowing good and dry feet crossable by rock hopping.

Km12.75 : viewpoint(-46.58294, -71.82549) of a valley with sky blue colour, super beautiful, don't miss it!

Camp[14.1/923] : grassland spot, a small stream is flowing low beside it.

Km16.6 : flat spot(-46.60658, -71.80980), have some covers can stay away from the wind tunnel in valley at north.(wind from north)

After this spot, no more camping spot or flat spot have wind protection until camp[32.6/1300]. Wind is crazy at the plateau.

Camp[32.6/1300] : tiny wind protection from a rock wall, just fit 1 tent for it. Better wind protection nearby camp[42.9/713].

Short cut CC from 38.2 to 42.7, it doesn't save much time, better follow GPX track, MR is completely finished and super easy to walk. It also walk beside some beautiful meadows that are nice to camp(no wind protection).

Camp[42.9/713] : spots at a wet muddy road. Better spots nearby at (-46.79053, -71.91127), dry and 2-3 sides wind protection by bushes, can fit many tents there.

Didn't see any cars going south at morning, so road walking all the way to entrance. 11k CLP for entrance fee, 6k CLP for camping fee, total 17k CLP, can pay by credit card.

Camp,$,bridge,lake[53.3/852] : El Silencio campsite and Lago Jeinemeni. This campsite is a little bit crown with car camping, and the lake is amazing beautiful!

HIGHLY RECOMMEND walking on the shore of lake from km56.65 - km57.75(from the junction of viewpoint, to the point that trail met the beach), easy, dry feet and excellent beautiful!

Bridge[58.9/856] : after this bridge, follow south route ( {35-S} & RP{35} ) to Lago Verde, then take the bridge(-46.86056, -72.07982) to cross the river. Lastly follow {35-D} rejoin RR. Dry feet.

Lake [59.2/840] : Laguna Esmeralda. Didn't find any camping possibilities. Better views at trail.

Refuge[61.7/856] : beside Laguna Esmeralda, a super blue lake. This refuge is not a cabin, just a shelter with 3 side wooden wall, good wind protection, but I'm not sure about heavy rain, because i saw many holes at the wall. Better camping spot with views beside the lake(not much wind protection).

Ford start/end[63.4/896] : late season, all the way easy dry feet crossing, walking on log or rock hopping.

Pass[64.5/1132] : no camping spot here, the spot shown on OSM, is already covered by many blowdowns. Nice viewpoint(-46.84093, -72.10324) of Lago Verde just SW of here.

Ford[66.1/877] : better river crossing point at (-46.83741, -72.11991), there is a sign at another side of river. Below knee, easy.

Ford[66.4/859] : river breaks into some parts, below knee, easy.

Refuge[68.1/867] : shelter with 2 walls, nice weather protection. Refuge with 4 walls, but huge air tunnel at ceiling, so just wind protection. A sign book inside refuge too. Camping spots at here can fit lot of tents, mostly have some wind protection, but not much, because trees are too tall, and just 1 spot behind a blowdowns have well wind protection.

Fords[68.4/869] - [71.6/905] : lot of river crossing, some trail can go around the river, but not much help and they are overgrown, so finally you need to be crossing and crossing then wet feet.

Km74.7 : camping spot(-46.87204, -72.17630), can fit 3-4 tents with some weather protection by the forest. Have a shelter made by logs here, can squat 1-2 hiker inside for emergency, but not much help, because it is really small and too many holes on it.

Km75.7 : camping spot(-46.87886, -72.16954), can fit 3-4 tents with some weather protection by the forest.

Km78.9 :camping spot(-46.90498, -72.15591), and some more spots nearby, total can fit 4-6 tents with some weather protection by the forest.

Ford[79.3/846] : Below knee, easy.

Refuge[81.0/819] : no refuge, no shelter. Camping spot with views can fit 2 tents but no protection.

Ford[82.6/805] : Below knee. Camping spot(-46.93485, -72.15869), can fit 2 tents with not much weather protection by the bushes, before the crossing.

Km83.3 : camping spot(-46.94089, -72.15600), can fit 2-3 tents with some weather protection by some trees. Also one spot at south but not much protection.

Km84.7 : camping spot(-46.95268, -72.15123), can fit 1 tent with some weather protection by some brushes.

Km88.6 : camping spot(-46.98397, -72.15988), can fit 2 tents with weather protection by some trees and brushes. Flat area nearby can fit many tents with good views but no protection.

Bridge[90.9/635] : classic bridge! Worth to take a look and walk on it!

We took {35-J} instead RR here, because less puds, also walking on a plateau looks like more scenic.

{35-J} Km5 : viewpoint(-47.03902, -72.19077) of the whole valley, very beautiful! Don't miss it!

Camp,$,refuge[98.9/379] : Casa de Piedra campground. Have some shelters with picnic table for cooking, and a refuge with hot(warm) shower, toilet and some tables for meals. If you decide to camp here, please expect sleep late. This spot mostly are campers and tourists. They'll speaking and cooking until 10 or 11 or midnight.

You can take a shuttle form here to Cochrane(30k CLP per person) or Camping Los West Wind(15k CLP per person)

Time schedule: 9am Cochrane - 9.45am Museo, 10am Museo - 10.15am Camping Los West Wind, 10.30am Camping Los West Wind - 10.45am Museo, 12noon Museo - 1pm Camping Casa de Piedra, 4.30pm Camping Casa de Piedra - 5.15pm Museo, 5.30pm Museo - 6.30pm Cochrane

Start from here, the trail is not maintained anymore, but still in good condition.

Km103 : Lago Gutierrez, amazing beautiful lake, have some minutes i thought back to Norway again.

Km103.85 : a small stream(-47.07911, -72.22738) flowing good with clear water, easy to collect.

Pass[110.8/1126] : some fresh snow remain at here.

Km112.45 : emergency camping spot(-47.10718, -72.28893), the ground is a little soft, but is flat and some wind protection, can fit many tents here.

Km116.9 : Laguna Guagua. Camping spot(-47.13350, -72.30170), can fit 2-3 tents with some wind protection from west by bushes, SW of the spot have a side trail to lake. BUT, DON'T go for {35-02A} back to RR, it is completely CC and BB with spike plants, not fun. Better CC climbing up to RR from camping spot directly.

Refuge,X[118.3/716] : no refuge, it is collapsed. The woods becomes a super small shelter here. If you lost your backpack, crawling inside maybe can save your life. Otherwise just for photos snapping function.

From here to km125.0, you will walk beside 3 lakes, didn't see any wind protection camping spots there, but if you have good luck at a no wind night, you maybe find some spots at the last lake.

Km125.0 : road walking start. Flat spot with some wind protection on the road can fit 1-2 tents at here too.

Km125.9 : junction of RR and {35-L}, because the road is too easy to walk and follow, we completely miss this junction and walk a long time then realised RR is a different way, so we keep going on {35-L} and rejoin RR later.

{35-L} km3.6 : a small stream(-47.17383, -72.37063) flowing good with clear water, easy to collect. Flat spot can fit 1-2 tents after the crossing.

We walked the whole way{35-L} and rejoin RR at km130.8.

RR Km132.4 : flat spot(-47.17220, -72.42231) can fit 1 tent at the end of lake. With some wind protection by forest.

Camp[136.9/162] : can fit 2-4 tents with weather protection by forest, but if the wind is come from south, it is not much help. Excellent views on the beach.

Camp[137.6/173] : can fit 2-3 tents with wind protection from east and north by trees. Excellent views on the beach. Just beside a port, looks like can take a boat to here.

Km138.3 : camping spot(-47.20064, -72.46718), total can fit 3-5 tents at several stage, some spots have good wind protection by trees and bushes.

From here to km146.0, lot of up and down beside some cliffs (maybe slippery in rain), but it is a trail with lot of amazing views, we are really enjoyed it.

Km139.77 : a tiny stream(-47.20803, -72.47813) flowing good with clear water, easy to collect.

Km141.73 : side trail to viewpoint(-47.21986, -72.49280) and cell service for Movistar.

Km142.15 : flat grassland(-47.22231, -72.49623) can fit 4 tents just beside the beautiful lake, some wind protection by valley itself.

X[143.9/244] : cell service for Entel(-47.23128, -72.50780)

Km146.0 : RN Tamango campground, some shelters for cooking, large arae for camping, hot shower and trash can, 7k CLP per person.

Km146.5 : the last flat spot(-47.24353, -72.53067) before Cochrane, some wind protection by brushes, can fit 1-3 tents with nice sunrise, you can arrive there by a clear trail beside ranger station, the trail is shown on OSM map.

Cochrane :

Lot of accommodation, markets and restaurants, and 2 outdoor gear shops.

230g gas canisters, power bank, chargers and tent stakes at Supermercado Melero(-47.25386, -72.57414).

Sunglasses, micro spikes, snow shoes and some clothes at La Ruta 7 Patagonia(-47.25591, -72.57320).

Sleeping bag, tents, boots(just 1 trail runner), socks, base layer, warm clothes and pants at Kalfu Patagonia(-47.25474, -72.57018).

Clothes at Vansy(-47.25417, -72.57431), not a outdoor gear shop, but some sporty clothes and pants for a low price at here.

Some campground and lot of indoor stays at Cochrane. The only hostel is Camping, Refugio ,Cabaña y Hostel(a long name) (-47.25446, -72.57497). And most of the rooms here include breakfast(without kitchen), 20k CLP per person. The only one we found with kitchen(but no breakfast) is Casa Raíces Hostal(-47.25113, -72.56848).

Bus terminal to Coyhaique, Villa Cerro Castillo, Villa O' Higgins, Chile Chico, Puerto Rio Tranquilo and Tortel at (-47.25137, -72.57317).

Tourist information(-47.25439, -72.57283).

I recommend La Martica(-47.25112, -72.57266), local restaurant with nice food in a good price.

* '''24-Feb-17 to 2024-Feb-22 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Variant L / Tomáš & Natalie'''

There were several hitchhiker groups out of Chile Chico so we took a taxi (990250968) to the settler at 8.9 for 10,000 CLP. Nobody was there, but there is a locked gate so it would not be possible to take a taxi further up. For pedestrians, there is an unlocked door. One can shortcut the first zigzag of the road thereafter and several others, it is open terrain. We camped in a dry lakebed (for windprotection) about 1 km after the first pass. Despite strong wind in Chile Chico and a forecast of wind gusts over 60km/hr, the night was largely peaceful with just one hour of wind. The plateau has terrain features and it seemed to us it is not that impossible to camp there, but maybe we were just lucky.

The next day was like a safari, lots of animals and little wind. Pawprints on lake bed turned out to be a big dog and not a puma according to the rangers though. Going down from the plateau, it is possible to shortcut the GPX track to the SE and end near the puesto at 34.6. Trail starts above the puesto but is not so easy to follow and the GPX does not seem to be the most precise. It is advisable to take a CC shortcut to bridge at 42.7 as mentioned by Adrien Kunzli: about 1 km before the end of MR 38.2, veer right aiming for a black outcrop on the mountain on the other side of the valley and you will pop out above the bridge. We got lucky and got a ride at around 16:30 to the parkoffice. We paid 15000 CLP only for one person - they forget to charge the other one. They were friendly and told us the weather forecast. We did not get any receipt or pass though. Walked two hours to campsite Raleigh, there were two other foreign tents there. The new trail is technically the old "laguna Esmeralda" (RP 59.2) trail with a new bridge, so keep left to avoid fords, combined with variant D it seems preferable to RR even when not intending to camp [November 20224: this is not RR].

From Raleigh, the first fords were possible to cross without fording thanks to logs and stones. The next valley is indeed beautiful, especially Lago Verde. There were about ten tents but no people near the refugio at 67.6. Tomáš tried to go around the second fords through the forest on the left and he eventually reached variant F, which exists but partially goes through a marsh and does not avoid fording anyway: it is pointless, just ford. Initially the start of the fords seem like a marsh, go around it from the right through the river, it is a nice riverbed thereafter. Rio Aviles was kneedeep and ok. Ford 71.2 is mighty - go downstream about 200 m, it splits and is easy there (there is a cairn in the middle). We camped at a camping site marked on OSM about 2 km further down from there. There is a place for one tent about 20 m from a creek. Very nice spot. Having a headstart to people starting from the park office, we only met three groups of foreigners all day.

Variant J does not avoid any substabtial fords, water at 96.1 is easily jumpable and the river is bridged on both J and RR.
Casa de Piedra is a nice spot with resident guanacos (and some tourists). Tomáš had a hot shower! We were asked for our passes - we explained we were not given them and it was ok. We went on. The Siete Lagunas trail is surprisingly in a rather good shape. It is little used but not much overgrown and generally easy to follow, needing a GPS only occasionally. Tomáš liked it tremendeously. Did not meet anyone on it.

We slept near the pass next to a marsh. It rained most of the night but stopped before morning, luckily the trail was not too wet the next day. The first stream after the pass is very weak (not flowing if not raining?); it flows from the marsh by which we slept and is about 500 m after the pass waypoint. The next stream is about 1 km further down, it had more water. After that, water is only in the lakes. Tomáš cleaned a lot of the logs and branches from the trail, if you can spare a moment, please do likewise. We could not see any traces of option 02A or option K. We took option L near km 129.9 - we were confused by other reports because we thought people were taking the much longer part of L that follows a MR. RR leaves the Siete lagunas trail at the end of option L after 29 km. The trail probably goes to Valle Chacabuco. [OSM has Variant F and L marked as "Sendero 7 Lagunas", this is wrong. Variant K looks to be indeed CC and variant L looks to be an unnecessary detour on a MR (overgrown and with logs at first when RR is on this MR - when you cross the MR again after four km on RR, it no longer looks that overgrown). November 2024: OSM has been corrected.] On L, one can easily take a CC shortcut from top of the hill to MR. We found two shortcutting trails to the MR. We met Daniel who was coming back from cutting invasive pines with his chainsaw, he had a friendly and humorous attitude. Camped at the lake at the wind protected camp.

The night brought surprisingly strong wind and rain - try to camp deeper in the forest. We followed a faint trail tracing the shore of the lake instead of CC 137.6, in the middle of it there was an apple tree that will be ripe in March probably. Did not meet anybody until the viewpoint above the lake that says "signal Movistar" (we have Entel, which has a sign 2 km further on but it did not work, just wait one hour until Cochrane proper), from then on, there were daytrippers. CONAF had a lunch break so we passed unnoticed. Cochrane as a town is ok.

Nat's Notes:
The Bulk shop in Chile Chico (Güenta Emporio) is not open on weekends, they have weird hours and sometimes need to call before; Andrea +56 9 9540 1708. I recommend the hospedaje Rio Baker, 15mil pp which is the general price here.
The plateau
- Besides Descabezado, this area was one of the most visually interesting sections for me. I haven't had that much fun taking photos in a long time. At first the guanacos scared me a little, I felt like I was surrounded by ninjas, eventually I warmed up to them. A good place for a zoom camera.
-For me the going was slow, besides being tired and equipped with rash-covered feet I found the navigation tricky. I kept aiming for the wrong pass because there are many rolling hills. However I found things got better near and after pass km28.8.
- Water in the plateau is still frequent. If one wants to camp as close to the plateau as possible (SOBO) I suggest this spot:-46.62397, -71.81920. Also there is a nice grassy and fairly sheltered spot near water km23.9: -46.66437, -71.84393 and a big flat grass patch at water 30.6. There is a huge boulder for wind protection if needed here; -46.65469, -71.83997. In the valley bottom near the puesto, there are less/no camping spots. I did not like all the dogs at puesto 34.6, so I purposely avoided it.
- When finishing the plateau section, I filled up on water at the last stream that wasn't the main river here: -46.72842, -71.89633, as I didn't think we would get a hitch to the park office.

Sendero Avilés
- The descent from pass km64.5 is nothing, just a bit of dirt dust that makes traction hard. The only part on this track that I would worry about safety-wise (apart from the two river crossings) is a new steep traverse 2ish kms after pass km74.1: -46.88996, -72.16428. I decided to throw my bag down 5m instead of walking down the "free fall". (Alternatively you could ford rio Aviles twice.)
- The series of mini river crossings were all fine, there is a nice water source before pass km74 in the forest once you finish all the fords, it comes from a waterfall not far away.
- Near the end I took Variant J bcs I thought it avoided a river crossing (no rivers to cross but RR doesn't either). If you do this option I recommend still going to the hanging bridge at the X of J and RR bcs it is a fun and unique bridge!
- Cassandra at Case Piedra was nice and easy to get along with.

Siete Lagunas
- The water we took from the marsh was probably the grossest water I have had to drink, lots of algae and oil, I filtered and boiled. (The second stream was much better.)
- As noted the trail is not hard to follow at this moment, only a handful of times I lost it. That being said it could be because we were walking near the end of the season and therefore it was obvious where ppl had been walking (pushed down grass), I think it would be a lot harder at the beginning of the season. Another bonus was that most spikees were gone.
- Near to camp 136.9, there is a water source. It is at the end of the beach, 200-300m west of camp. There are two or three more water sources on the first part of the trail but after the look-out, there are no more.

* '''2024-Feb-6 to 2024-Feb-11 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option L / Yannick & Nolwenn & Tess & Lukas'''

- Trail condition : really nice overall // the trail is sometimes overgrown and easy to loose from km 113,5 to km 122, so just keep an eye on the gps
- Water : easy to find plenty of rivers and lagunas
- Camping spot : we camped at km 32,6 and it was a bad idea, too exposed and we got snow and a lot of wind during the night, would really recommend to go down more // we camped near the lago Gutiérrez at km 106,15 there is place for 2 tents
- Weather : windy, sunny, snow, rain
- River crossing : easy
- Resupply : in Chile Chico (a bulk shop just opened in front of the camping Nandu) // in Cochrane everything you need
- Entrance fee : for park Patagonia 11 000 pesos per pp + 6 000 pesos for camping per pp
- Overall : really nice section, we were happy to encounter 3 huemuls

*'''2024-Jan- 18 to 2024-Jan-24/ 7 days/hiking/SOBO/ 35/ 35-02a( from 47.1567357S, 72.4154650W)/ 35-02 ( from S 47.12123, W 072.46099) /35-03 ( from S 47.11712 W072.48494)/35-03c ( from Laguna El Cangrejo)/35-03d/ 35 from Lago Cochrane/ Paulina'''
Long, beautiful tour in Parque Patagonia, as I mixed different variants, it allowed me to see all the divercity of the park. Almost no people, a lot of guanacos, a really beautiful section!

Day 1 The way from Chile Chico to Lago Jeinimeni. I was prepared to walk all the way, but as some cars stoped and it was a very hot day, I took a lift ( I have walked maybe 8 km in total ). I stopped at 46.7304997S, 71.7415019W, to do the loop of about 7 km in the first reserve of Jeinimeni. The entrance is paid 6000 CLP but the ticket is valid later, at the main entrance at Lago Jeinimeni ( the next 2 days). It's really worth to walk on this place. The rock formations are amasing. It takes about 3h and you can leave your backpack at the park reception After that, another car stoped and took me to the main entrance of Lago Jeinimeni. The views from the road are really scenic, it's a pity not to walk some parts of this road, lucky my car was old and slow so I could admire the views.

Day 2 From Lago Jeinimeni to the refugio and camping at 46.8406732S, 72.1409082W. The first part of the trail to Portezuelo La Gloria is rather easy, it stays mostly in the valley, the ascent to the pass is not very difficult and rather short. On the way down from the pass there are some steeper moments and there are some places where the trail is distroyed by a kind of stone avalanche so you have to find your way thru the stones. Amasing views on Laguna Verde. Once you are down at Laguna, there are some fords, when I was there, the highest one was till knees.

Day 3 A lot of fords all the way in Valle Hermoso, there were all easy to cross. Also, you can't clearly see the path but anyway, you have to follow the valley. Sometimes there are signes so you will always find the way. This day, the only a bit more difficult place you can find around S 46.89032 W 072.16461. Going SOBO it's a steep descent, it's very short but steep. Can be dangerous after the rain. Later the views on the canyon on Aviles river became really amasing, it was for me one of the most beautiful part in all the park.

Day 4/5 I had 6 km till Casa de Piedra ( there was a tiny spot for one tent with a stream at this distance) and I started the part Siete Lagunas. At Casa de Piedra I asked the ranger if the trail was walkable and he confirmed that it was ok and I could go. But, as the others already mentioned , the trail is not maintained anymore. Till the end of Laguna Gutierrez it's rather easy to find the way without gps, but later, there are some places where the path is not at all visible. With trail on gps is not very difficult to find the way, but without this, can be very difficult to follow this trail. There are also a lot of fallen trees, some BB. If they do nothing, I think in 2 years the path will completely disapear. But it's a beautiful trail, wild, you meet nobody, a pure and intacked nature. Just take enough water, the first day of this sendero the water was at Lago Gutierrez and later about 1h after the pass.

Day 6 Instead to continue on RR I went to Valle Chacabuco to discoverer also this sector. I started with the trail Lagunas Atlas. Well marked, beautiful, various views, it was the most frequented part of the park, but still I can't say it was crowded. Beautiful camp on Laguna el Cangrejo.

Day 7 The views on Lago Cochrane are really amasing. The landscapes and the vegetation are in this part different than before.

To conclude, I did not encontered really difficult places on this long hike. As I walked through all sections of the park, it allowed me to see all the divercity of the area. Except maybe 3 h in Valle Chacabuco, I did not really meet people in the park. It was a beautiful section! In Cochrane, you will find a lot of shops where you can find everything you need for next section. There are several campings ( I liked a lot Camping Lorenzo not crowded, nice place to cook with gaz, friendly owner, spots with twin protection

* '''2023-Dec-28 to 2024-Jan-04 / 8 days / RR / SOBO / Roshi'''

I hitchhiked from Chile Chico to X{35}[8.1/505] and did not see the settler at El Ciprés. It was very windy and I decided to cross the plateau at midday which was maybe not the best idea. The cross country I found very challenging and the extreme head wind across the plateau was in relentless. Nevertheless I thoroughly enjoyed the amazing landscape and the challenge, although a less windy day or starting earlier would have made it more enjoyable. I camped close to Camp 32.6/1300 at a dry spot and the next day followed the fence down to the road and walked to the Park entrance at Jenimeni. The park rangers told me of an alternative route to the start of the Avilés trail to Casa de Piedra and gave me some maps and info, they were very friendly. I paid 3000 pesos for park entry. I camped at Valle Hermoso which lives up to its name and then did a day hike to the glacial lake leaving my tent at the Refugio Valle Hermoso and following Estero Ventisquero or part of OH-CC-A {35-06} After packing up I then hiked a couple of kms down to a next campsite (there are a couple of established places to set up your tent on the way to Casa de Piedra). From Casa de Piedra I followed the Site Laguna's trail which was overgrown and difficult to follow and navigate and for me probably my least favourite part. The kms are marked but you really have to follow the GPS me there aren't many places to pitch if you don't feel like hiking anymore. I think going down into Chacobuco (which I had done previously) would have been nicer. I loved the Lago Cochrane and Tamango reserve the views and colours were amazing and the trails very easy to follow and not very busy. I got a lift into Cochrane halfway from the entrance but the road walk is not long anyway and I was not actively hitching.

Annoyances were horse flies but I got good advice to "out Zen" them and to be honest once you let it go and enjoy the views and being in nature generally they are easy to deal with. Just don't stop between 2 and 8 PM ;)
And from Jenimeni to Casa de Piedra is lots of river crossings so just accept wet feet :) and try do river crossings in the morning especially on hot days ( esp Avilés) Be safe and sensible obviously!
I would have maybe even liked to stay longer on this part of the trail, there were lots of little day hikes and alternative routes I'd have loved to explore, but I didn't have enough food. It's a beautiful part of the world, enjoy it!

* '''From 2023-01-15 to 2023-01-19 // 5 days // Hiking // NOBO // VARIANT P + OPT3 + OPT3A + RR + VARIANT J + VARIANT I + VARIANT D + Sendero Laguna Esmeralda (no variant on that one yet) + RR // Quentin Clavel'''

From Cochrane, I thought it was sad to go straight along the Lago Cochrane without checking what's going up there, and have a view over the vallee Chacabuco. So that's what I did.

I just took the beginning of Variant P, you have to pass threw a gate saying "no passar" then you have to bifurcate to the option 3 (tamango) to reach the pass between vallée tamango and chacabuco. Very nice views. Then instead of going down into vallée Chacabuco, I went straight, and continue on the sendero de las siete lagunas, wich is an old track, sometimes hard to guess, so check the GPS, but mostly easy to folllow (you still have the mark every kilometers).

Really loved the colours at the end of Lago guitterrez !

Main difficulties on the section are these horrible horseflies, and the no less terrible little spiky plants that stay sticks in your shoes and socks.

Then you reach casa de piedras. I took the variant J to don't have to put my crocs for the river crossing (yeah, I'm a lazy walker aha).

Then follow the river until the vallée hermoso, wich lives up to its name. And at this time it's just a mix between walking and crossing rivers. No need to ask, I putted my crocs on aha !

The pass up to Lago Verde was steep but the view so outstanding and the colours .. same amazing colours on Lago jeinemeni !

Didn't stayed at, but the Raleigh camp is very nice if you may choose a camp around !

Second part of NP was CC, and that was so cool ! Just have the directions and go straight to this point. Passing from mountains to others, surrounded by an unnumerable number of curious guanacos !

Hardest part is to deal with the strong wind during the ascend and at the highest point. And the descent is quite unstable, stay close to the GPX tracks, I tried to shorttrack but it led me down to slippery slopes, so I had to backtrack to find again the GPX.

Then it's 15 km down to reach Chile Chico (8km on the asphalt). Settler wasn't angry against me and saluate me kindly when I passed threw his land.

Very nice stretch. Very diversificate, great landscapes, wildlife. I loved it !

And about the entrance fees, It was not my intention, but I haven't paid for as I entered by variant P which is not a porper enter. And haven't seen any guardaparque at all.

* '''2023-Dec-30 / 1 day / Packrafting / SOBO / Option 10 C / Tom Pieper'''

I attempted this option as an alternative starting point for section 36G. Hitchhiked to the bridge of Carreterra Austral over Rio Chacabuco. I scouted rapid {35-10C} [2.3/121] from 100 m above and it looked feasible. This was not true when I approached on the river after entering just before the bridge. The rapid was impassable (late afternoon) which brought me into serious troubles. The canyon is pretty steep here and there is no way back. It was not fun to climb the steep slopes cliffs to escape the 100 m deep canyon. Its really dangerous. The rapid is pretty hard to investigate from above. I would recommend to only go later in the season and only in the morning or at least with company.

* '''2023-Dec-21 / 8 day / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Option 10 + Old and new tracks to Administration Parque Patagonia Valle Chacabuco / Tom Pieper'''

Most have been described by Kris and Stina. The plateau and the entire track is awesome. After the kind Arriero at the puesto {35} [15.8/1075] (actually its his house) I found it a little bit tricky to find a good route first but then just ascended and found a nice cross country route. Camped before the plateau. There are nice spots just before 1400 m, after that its just rocky until you descend to the Water {35} [23.9/1586]. Camp {35} [32.6/1300] was a little bit swampy. Found a better spot 300 m south. Try to be early at the road if you want to hitchhike. I was lucky and got the last car passing at 14.00 to the park at day. On the 25/12 the park entrance (but only the entrance) is always closed! Keep in mind if you come around christmas. At the park entrance you must disinfect your packrafting gear due to Didymo algae. I could not packraft lago jenimeni and verde due to wind but its still stunning. Between Water {35} [75.5/937] and Ford {35} [79.3/846] there is a approx. 3-4 steep bluff. I felt really uncomfortable with my heavy backpack as a lot of erosion happened to the steep ‘steps’. Maybe exploring an additional bush bashing route is feasible here. The ford was rather deep and could be a problem for shorter persons but I crossed in the evening, so in the morning it should be fine. Collapsed Refuge {35} [81.0/819] makes a nice camp spot. The other forts were fine. Stayed one night at Casa Piedra were I met Tobi and Fangwen and spend dinner and breakfast together the next day. CONAF first denied to packraft Rio Chacabuco due to conservation reasons, but after I mentioned that I came along all the track with my gear and rangers et sector jenimeni they were fine with me going on that river. The river is a bit unspectacular. I left at the River Out {35} [119.8/277] and I followed the old trail/road to Park Ranger, Refuge, Camp {35} [123.2/263]. There is a new picknick hut and I spend the night in there with a spectacular view of the valle chacabuco to the rims of campo hielo norte. The next day I continued the old track right side of the river (not in the GPT track files) until the bridge {35-10} [4.7/265]. Track is still in good conditions and occasionally used by the horses and guanacos there. A wonderful hike with massive views. I than continued on the CONAF trail (also not in the GPT track files) to Park administracion at Lodging $$$ {35-03} [1.9/340]. Would not recommend the restaurant. 65 $ for a 3 course meal but nothing fancy. Better spend for dinner in Cochrane. But for a post hike drink at the bar it is a lovely place and staff is kind. Also liked the museum and stayed the night at the campsite approximately 2 km away. The puma still seems to be there occasionally. Next day I hitchhiked out to Cochrane.

* '''2023-Dec-18 to 2023-Dec-23/ 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris'''

Got a taxi for the first 8 kilometers of the roadwalk. Nobody present at the farm where the dirtroad starts to go uphill, gates easy to get through, friendly dog. We hiked just 6km and made camp by a stream.

The next day passed the puesto at km15.8, owner seemed friendly and waved. Slowly climbed up to the plateau, lots of water everywhere, very few snowpatches en route. Perfect day - not much wind. Saw lots of guanacos, hares, flamingos. Moving cross-country was ok throughout. Climbed a few barbed-wire fences. Finally found the dirt road, hiked to camp at km42.9.

In the morning hitched a ride to the park entry with a ranger. We had no online booking as we didn't know when we'd arrive, they had us make one on site. Super friendly guys, said that there is currently fewer visitors than normally at this time. The route between Rio San Antonio crossing and Camp Raleigh has been changed, partially new trail built; follows mainly the Lago Esmeralda trail. There is now a brand new hanging bridge over Rio San Antonio right next to Camp Raleigh, avoiding all the needless crossings.

After the camp there trail seems new in places, but then resorts to many rivercrossings again. The way up and down the Puertozuela La Gloria is steep and loose. After Lago Verde there are a million more crossings until you turn South. Here the trail is not much maintained, lots of fallen trees. The next 25km to Casa Piedra the trail is a bit harder to see at first but then gets much better. The guy (not a ranger) at Casa Piedra informed us that the Siete Lagos trail is closed but couldn't say why. It's definitely overgrown in parts, lots of fallen trees - need to keep track on the gpx at all times. After settler at km135.2 the trail has been recently maintained and bushes cut.

For photos and stories, you can follow us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-31 to 2023-Apr-06 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option J / Martin & Helena'''

We enjoyed this section a lot, especially with all the beautiful autumn colors in early April and basically without people until the last part before Cochrane. PN Patagonia closed some sectors on the first Monday in April, so we were the last ones to get a permission and do this section ‘legally’. Be prepared for this if you want to do this part in April or later. The problem is they close Casa Del Piedra and probably won’t let you pass to that sector from Lago Jeinemeni, where the entrance stays open for longer time. Sneaking around the guards house early in the morning or just not be specific about your plans might work if needed, its very unlikely you would meet anyone on the way from the main entrance.

Just like others we found the plateau between km 20-28 very very windy. Definitely don’t count with camping there. We found a good spot right after the secound pass, aprox. 500m down the hill where you can find a wind protected place. The descent down is a little slow but with nice views, guanacos, horses.. simply amazing. Once back on the road, it’s not too far to the PN entrance where we met a guard, but fortunately were able to get a permission as described above. The trail from Lago Jeinemeni was one of our favorites. All the fords were easy, but expect quite slow progress in the CC parts. We camped in a forrest at km 81 where is a destroyed refugio but still a good spot for camping. The rest of the trail to Casa Del Piedra is again straightforward and the landscape is somehow more dry. We didn’t cross the first bridge but went with the J option which turned out to be a good decision as we met a xx of guanacos that let us come really close to them. Closed and locked refugio still provides a good shelter, but when open it must be a perfect stop in the middle of this long section. Water was turned off as well but there is a stream behind the house.

We spent the next night on the beach of Lago Gutierrez where is enough space to build a tent - bushes around the trail are otherwise very thorny and sharp. After the ascent to the pass was a good stream of water, probably the last place to safely take unfiltered water for the next couple of kms. The trail from there leads around all the lakes and is nice and easy. We spent the night in a refugio at km 134. This one was the only one standing from what we have seen and its a good shelter when it rains, however we decided to stay in our tent anyway. You can make fire inside. Closest water is actually the one in a lake uphill, the stream on the other side of the path was very dirty and hard to gather anyway.

From there its a one more day until the finish with a good pace. We haven’t met the settler Daniel, but he’s definitely still living there. Beautiful beach of Lago Cochrane and from there we started to meet more and more tourists, doing just a day hike or some circuit around the lake - might be a good option as well in this beautiful region. The last kms felt a little long for us as we were looking forward to have some rest and enjoy all the fun in town. At the official campsite were a few people but no one asked us about anything. There are nice toilets and shower. From there its around 30m to Cochrane. Good to remember they celebrate Easter holidays in Chile as well, but we still managed to find some shop and bakery open.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''12/03/2023 - 18/03/2023 / RR SOBO / Jakub+Veronika:'''

Doing section 35 was due to closure of the Patagonia NP caused by heavy rains with helicopter rescue of several tourists from Valle Hermoso quite complicated, we did walk all we could in Tamango reserve and later (when it was opened) in Chacabuco valley. Be sure not to miss the museum. It's really worth it. The northern part was opened as the last one, that's why we've skipped it and hitchhiked back to Caretera. All paths in great condition. When going from Tamango to Chacabuco there's one suggestion:

It seems that on RR (35, km 141) ends new 11km long track ”Huemules” which starts at the parking in Chacabuco valley on RP (35, km 132.5). That trail might be a nice alternative to RR (mud road) leading over private land of settler David Huemul.

*8.02. - 05.03.23 / Anna & Christopher / SOBO, Chile Chico - Cochrane

We started in Chile Chico around 5 pm walking the first km on the road. After a while we got a ride to the Bahía Jara cross and camped a few hundred meters further near the street (we carried water from Chile Chico).

The ascent to the plateau is mostly easy dirtroad walking and the last CC part easy to navigate. The whole stretch on the plateau until the street at km 41.5 we had extreme wind, which made walking super tiring and nearly blew us away a few times. We found a tiny and steep, but wind protected place to set up our tent at around km 28 in the ridge dug by the river. We had to get a bit inventive to set it up and to be able to sleep properly there. There were almost no other places that were protected by the wind until you get off the plateau. As almost all previous entries say, it's better to camp off the plateau. But it's really worth doing it because you can see Guanacos and flamingos on it :)

When we reached the street at km 41.5 we were lucky and a car passed by a few minutes later, which brought us to the entrance of Parque Patagonia. We payed 15k CLP p.p. and walked to the camp Raleigh at Lago verde. There are some sheltered places to set up the tent, with an unfamiliar amount of people for the GPT. Lago Verde is beautiful though.

The next day involves lots of river- and stream crossings and it started to rain not particularly heavy, but after some hours we were completely wet. Therefore the rivercrossing at km 82.6 was really hard for Anna (1,63 m) but we managed by inertlocking our arms and doing it step by step slowly. After that the trails get really good and you can walk way faster. We camped at the unofficial camp site at km 84.7.

We had good weather the next day and the trail was really good until Lago Gutierrez. Up to the pass the trail gets a bit worse with some navigation issues, but you always find a good path again. As the others wrote there are only some tiny streams within the first km after the pass until the next Laguna, so we filled up our bottles there and camped somewhere in the forest soon afterwards once it started to rain again.

The next day there were still not too much water sources and we fetched the first water at the first Laguna which wasn't super easy to access. The trail until Lago Cochrane wasn't in bad condition neither. We also took Option L, which follows the 'regular' siete lagunas trail. The stretch from Lago Cochrane until the Conaf office at the end of the lake is absolutely amazing with great views of one of the clearest lakes in the world. We camped at km 145.7 and took a bath in the lake.

The last 8 km to Cochrane went super fast on an easy trail until Conaf and 4 km road walking to the town, so happily we could escape from the starting rain.

* '''20 to 24 of February 2023 / Silke & Hans / Loop - Fachinal -> Chile Chico'''

We didn't do the regular route, but read about an intresting loop starting in Fachinal and entering the normal route at Valley Hermoso. We then continued along the regular route to the entrance at Laguna Jeinimeni, and back to Chile Chico. The first 3 days from Fachinal we didn't see any other hikers, but it was pretty clear why. The trail was completely overgrown, full of fallen trees and a lot of the time there is no trail at all. But we managed our way through pretty good, and is was an awesome alternative to enter the Park. We recorded our GPX for others, waypointed some POI's and added some photo's to it: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/114121493

DAY 1 / 18km / +740m /
Although we heard of a bus to Fachinal from Chile Chico, nobody really appeared to know any information about it.. In the terminal the people we spoke said there were none. So we started hitchhiking the following morning. But after 3-4h of no luck we went back to the terminal, and all of a sudden there was a bus leaving at 11:30. 10.000 pesos pp, a little expensive but being unsuccesfull hitchhiking we took it. We had lunch at the turnoff, and starting hiking around 13:00. The first part is on a clear double track, but soons turns into a clear singletrack. We took the wrong intersection twice (waypointed on our GPX). We camped right before the first big river crossing. There is one steel cable, so if you bring a harness you could tiroller across.

DAY 2 / 22km / +1100m /
First up, we crossed the river. The water level didn't seem a lot lower than the day before, and at the deepest part it was about halfway our thighs. After taking another wrong intersection and backtracking, we reach the second river crossing. Again a steel cable is provided but the crossing was pretty straightforward, and the water level was only slighty above our knees. Just across the river is a an old cabin, and then short after a very new refugio (locked, used by a trekking agency). The trail gets super dense after this, climbs steeply on the mountain side and dissapears completely on numerous occasions. After the climb it flattens out, opens up and you reach a laguna. After the laguna it's the easiest to just follow the river bed down to the open valley floor (possible sheltered campsite in the forest). Follow the valley floor to another amazing laguna where you can camp near a second locked refugio.

DAY 3 / 14km / +440m /
We started the day with a side-trip to a mirador looking over the glacier high above. Takes about 1,5-2 hours return. We then packed up camp and headed for Valley Hermoso. You pass another beautiful laguna and follow the river down to the main valley. Lots of river crossing here. We camped at the Refugio Valley Hermoso, arriving earlier than expected.

DAY 4 / 15km / +200m /
Very short and easy daytrip to another laguna. About 3 hours return. We just chilled the rest of the day.

DAY 5 / 36km / +830m /
Final day along the normal route to the entrance of Laguna Jeinimeni. The day started off with some heavy rain for a couple of hours, but all the river crossings were still very doable. We arrived at the entrance around 13:00, and there was no sign of anybody leaving soon. So we decided to continue hiking untill we could find a ride along the way. We ended up hiking an extra 19km before finally a car was willing to take us along. There is an established campsite at the entrance for 3000 pesos pp.

* '''19 to 24 of February 2023 / Will / SOBO, regular route'''

Not too much to add on this one. I had a good time but the section felt long.

On the way up to the first plateau there were a few somewhat sheltered places to camp past the puesto. I camped around km 19, just before the last steep climb up to the plateau. Lots of streams around there.

None of the river crossings went above my knees, after a dry week.

I liked the detour up to the Lago Jeinemeni mirador. I also took variant I out and back to a glacier lake, I'm less sure whether that was worth it. I couldn't find any real trail, it was nice easy cross country walking through the woods followed by some open rocky ground. The glacial lake was cool, but not as spectacular as some of the ones I've seen in other sections.

I camped at the casa de piedras and took a luxurious warm shower. The ranger said you're supposed to pay at the office in valle Chacabuco, but since our route doesn't go there she just let me stay for free. She also said that sendero de siete lagunas (our route) was closed, but that I could do it since I had my gps and satellite communicator. She made it sound tough/dangerous though it turned out to be fairly quick trail.

Not much water or campsites along the siete lagunas. There's a nice campsite at the tip of the pencil lake just after the (still intact!) refugio at 133.9.

* '''2023-Feb-12-19 / NOBO / RR + Option 35-L / Ondrej and Bara / Cochrane - Chile Chico / 7.5 days'''

We really enjoyed this section! We went from Cochrane to Chile Chico. Our favourite parts were the descent through Valle Hermoso and the descent on the cross country section to Chile Chico. We spent 7.5 days on this section, taking a relaxed pace and including a half day break.

We only had to pay 9,000 CLP per person entrance fee at the Cochrane park gate (sector Tamango). We then showed the pass three days later to a ranger at Casa de Piedras and he let us go. The final checkpoint for us was the CONAF park exit/entrance at Lago Jeinemeni. The ranger there didn’t want to see our pass at all, he just asked from where we hiked (we said Casa de Piedras).

Some details: - Starting from Cochrane, the trail is easy walking up until km 144.9. As you leave Lago Cochrane, the trail is harder to follow. Fortunately this lasts only up to km 138, where the trail becomes easy to follow again. We camped next to the refuge on km133.9. The refuge has a good roof and can serve as an emergency shelter. There is no good water next to it though - we needed to climb the hill to the laguna to refill. - From roughly km 125 to km 99, the RR follows the old Siete Lagunas trail, which is not maintained anymore. Expect some fallen trees and slightly overgrown parts but the trail is beautiful and easy to navigate in general. - We took Option L to cut some overgrown road walking as recommended by others. We really liked it. - We camped next to the destroyed refuge at Laguna Guagua (km 118.3) and really loved the place - there is an amazing pebble beach at the laguna. - If you don’t want to camp at Casa de Piedras, there is a place for a small tent and a stream at roughly km 97 (-47.07463, -72.20439). We camped there. - The river crossings in Valle Aviles and Vale Hermoso were maximum to our knees. The deepest one was at Lago Verde (km 66.1). However, the river levels can change rapidly when it rains the days before - do check the weather. - We camped at the eastern shore of Lago Verde (km 61.7; campsite Raleigh) and really loved it - it has picnic tables and a spacious cooking/eating shelter. - We hitchhiked the part on the road between km 53 and 41.5. Few cars go by but the hitch was easy - we stopped the first car. - The cross country section from km 41.5 is very different from the rest - semi-desert like and lots of animals. We saw llamas, flamimgos, condors and hares (among sheep, cows and horses). - Between km 38 and 33 the path goes along a fence. We had to get over the fence once (we scrambled below it without problems). - If you are going NOBO, expect stunning views of the General Carrera Lake and Torres del Avelano when coming from the last pass (km 20.8) down to Chile Chico.

A ranger in Casa de Piedras wanted to prevent us to walk the RR NOBO from Casa de Piedras to Valle Hermoso. He claimed that route is closed now as the rivers are too high to cross. To avoid conflict, we said that we will only do the “loop trail” which is basically the RR from Casa de Piedras up until the bridge where the RR joins Option J. The Option J is then used to return back to Casa de Piedras. When doing the loop, we met several hikers in the opposite direction who confirmed that all river crossings are fine. In light of this we decided to continue on the RR and indeed the deepest ford was to our knees. Therefore if faced with a ranger claiming that the rivers are too high, we suggest to start with the loop trail (rangers should be okay with that) and get more info on the river levels from the hikers going the opposite direction.

*2023 last week January NoBo (6 days but could have very easily been done in less) / Helen and Craig + (Caro, Ali and Gabby)

>Such lovely camp sites. Beautiful places to stay the night the whole way around

>Very very easy trails. River crossing section isn't bad at all and the Valle hermosa lives up to its name.

>1st and last camp site particularly lovely

>Keep eyes peeled for pumas! I would have easily missed the sighting if I hadn't been looking the right way at the right time. They were super close. 10m or less away. Two cubs outside the refugio at casa peidra. Not where they are commonly seen in the park at all Aparently around west winds camp they are more commenly seen.

>Museum in the middle of the section worth checking out. Very visual and quite hard hitting environmental museum

> Can hitch easy enough to Chile Chico but leave last camp early in the morning. There's often a driver with a 4x4 who drives hikers in to the park and will take you back for 10,000p/p. Hikers who were a few hours behind us had no luck hitching as demand can often overtake spaces.

* '''27 of January to 1 of February 2023 / Véronica & Zach / GPT35 RR SOBO / 5.5 days '''

Route: Chile Chico - Lago Jeinimeni - Valle Hermoso - Casa de Piedra - Lago Cochrane - Cochrane

What a beautiful and diverse stretch of the GPT! I hiked half of this section with Zach, up to Casa de Piedras at km 98.9. We were unable to get a hitch out of Chile Chico, so we ended up walking the road to where the trail begins. No navigation issues, but the entire cross-country section to Río de las Nieves (waypoint at 42.7 km) is very exposed and was very windy when we crossed. We ended up camping at the water at 23.9 km, but the wind blew very strongly all night and I was worried it might take my tent. If you can, it is better to camp off this plateau unless the weather is calm. Lots of guanaco trails to follow :)

At the CONAF office at km 53.0, we each paid 9,000 clp for entry to the national park, plus 6,000 clp for passage/camping along the trail to Casa de Piedras in the Valles Hermoso and Aviles. Beautiful trail the whole way, popular and well-maintained, with cairns and markers to follow. There is an awesome shelter and camping area with picnic tables on the eastern shore of Lago Verde, at the end of Option D. In my opinion it was nicer than the popular refugio in Valle Hermoso (km 68.1) that everyone talks about.

We had no issues with fords, except the one at km 82.6 which flows into Río Aviles. It was the end of a warm sunny day, so the flow was quite high and strong. Had I been on my own I would have camped on the north side and waited till morning to cross. However, this time I was able to cross by linking arms with Zach as he is much taller than me and was more stable in the current.

At Casa de Piedras, Zach and I parted ways as he wanted to packraft down the Río Chacabuco. The ranger at the Casa told me the Sendero de las Siete Lagunas (which begins at km 99.5) was no longer maintained. This is true, there were stretches in the desertlike brush that were hard to follow, and I checked the GPS frequently. Generally it was better when the trail went into wooded areas. I also found this trail to be dry — the only water I found was the water from the lagunas and a tiny trickle about a kilometer south of the pass. Lots of spiky plants that get stuck in your socks and shoes. I took Option L to cut out some overgrown minor road walking. It's sad that this trail is being neglected and left to be swallowed up by nature, because otherwise it is quite scenic.

The horse trail that goes from the puesto of Daniel Huemul (km 143.3) to Lago Cochrane was also rough and overgrown. Everything gets easier once you reach Lago Cochrane though, nice, maintained trails all the way to Cochrane with beautiful places to camp along the lake.

* '''GPT35 / Yannic & Mirjam / 2022-Dec-13'''

Much is already detailed below, so we will keep it short

1 day: from Chile Chico to the entrance of the National Park. We camped one night before the pass at S 46.61639 W 71.81632. Water right next to the camp. Pass is very windy.

2 days: from the National Park to the Refugio. Nice refugio with small house where you can make a fire inside to dry things. From the Refugio to Casa Piedra is possible in one day. But it is a long day with many kilometres.

2.5 days: Casa Piedra to Cochrane. Leaving Casa Piedra, after a few hundred metres the trail leaves the Minor Road and enters the trail (where there is a large stone marker). The trail is officially closed and partly in bad condition. There are many fallen trees on the trail, some of it is overgrown and not completely clear. We therefore checked the GPS regularly. We took OH-TL-V{35-L}, which saves a few kilometres of (overgrown) minor road.
We spent one night at Laguna Guagua (Refugio is completely destroyed) and one at Lago Cochrane.
When we left the national park, no one was at the office. We therefore simply went through...

* '''GPT35 Variant P, Option 3, 3C, 3D / Meylin Ubilla, Jan Dudeck / 2022-Dec-12 and 13 / 1.5 days'''

While waiting in the village Cochrane for our friends to catch up, we did a little 1.5 day hike higher up next to Lago Cochrane that we visited at least 3 times by packraft in past years. For the first time this year we waked with a light backpack without packrafting gear.

We took Variant P eastbound that slowly climbs on a gravel road to an altitude of 500 m and then continues as a panorama trail in this altitude.

Apparently, this is not authorized access to Parque Patagonia (Sector Tamango) and two gates need to be climbed but there was nobody to be seen on this route. The normal access to the park is down next Rio Cochrane and Lago Cochrane.

Nearly the entire route was scenic and worth the effort.

The settler “El Húngaro” apparently sold the land and became part of the national park. There is an open building that might be used as a refuge in case of emergency but camping is probably more comfortable.

The refuge at {35-P} [4.0/501] is collapsed but camping is pleasant on this pasture.

The trail section OH-TL-V {35-03} [0.0+5.2] is not maintained for several years making this route inconvenient to walk. The route south of both lakes is easy walking.

As long as Parque Patagonia does not challenge hikers to make a full traverse from Cochrane to Chile Chico it is prudent to take the official route which is the current regular route and pay the entrance fee near Cochrane when hiking northbound.

But should longer multi-day traverses be denied, then it might be less bothersome to take Variant P which avoids the entrance.

Packrafters can travel east and westbound on Lago Cochrane and will not pass any park entrance.

* '''Alice & Florian / 4 to 10 November-2022 / Regular Hiking Northbound'''

Here's our story of our GPT35. We really enjoyed this section, it is really diverse, beautiful landscapes and we saw heaps of animals.

As we wanted to do the trail in the northbound direction, we took the bus from chile chico to Cochrane, arriving in chile chico from argentina from the south (border o'higgins closed...). It tales 4 hours and leaves on sunday at 14 (return Monday 7 Am), Monday 16 (return Tuesday 7 AM),Wednesday and Friday 7 Am (return 16).

We took the option north of Cochrane because we were not sure if they would allow us to sleep in the tamango reserve. But, indeed you have to pass a no entry sign, a gate and a sign saying that entering the park that way is prohibited so we do not recommend it when it is written on the conaf website that it is allowed to sleep in tamango section.

We took the sendero de los huemules and slept at camp 1 waypoint. There was plenty of water at that time and a beautiful view.

After that we took the option OH-TL-V 35-P to avoid going downhill. The entry of this trail is about 150m before what is indicated on the GPT so be aware. I don't think the trail is an official one from the park so you have to fight your way through some bushes. But apart from that, it is clear. Then we joined the regular route, which since the 2022 version does follow the siete lagunas trail. You will join the siete lagunas trail at the kilometer 11 more or less. We then camped around the km 13 of the 7 lagunas trail.

We found water just before climbing at the pass at S47°06.0856' W072°17.592' and there is more at the top. However, it is true that it is drier on the other side of the pass, so if you are going Southbound, pack enough water from Lago Gutierrez to climb the pass.

We spent the third night at casa de Piedra where you have all facilities (electricity, hot shower, kitchen). Unfortunately for us they were on strike so they wouldn't allow us to go further on the trail. We did anyway as going out to jeiminini or through the road to chacabuco would take the same time.
By the way various national parks - including Torres del Paine were on strike at the moment.

The second part in the aviles valley is really clear, the trail is really nice and easy and with a lot of water available. Exiting the casa de piedra you should take the option OH-TI-V 35-J instead of the regular route, it will save you 600 m and two river crossings, and the view is similar. Starting at km 20, you will have to reduce your pace because the trail is busy with a lot of fallen trees, bushes and rocks. Between the km 22 and 23 of the valle aviles trail, the trail has been swept away by the river this winter so you have to cross the river two more times to go around. The kilometers indications disappear more or less after the pass, at km 25.

After that you enter the valle Hermoso. We camped at the waypoint 17/Camp Valle Hermoso but we do not recommend it. It was really small and close to the river, so if there is a sudden level rise because of heavy rain or a flooding because of a glaciar outburst (GLOF), you might get wet... Better sleep st the small caban near km23 if you don't think you will reach the refugio in valle Hermoso.

Once you reach Lago Verde, follow the GPT track and not the trail that leads to the lake, or you will have to turn back. After the pass it's more river crossings but you can save some kilometers in the river bed by taking the option OH-TI-V 35-E and then OH-TI-V 35-D until the rio jeimenini (the first part of the option OH-TI-V 35-D does not exist anymore). We did not have any trouble to cross the Rio between the 2 lakes even though we were in the middle of the afternoon. It was about thigh deep for me but I'm tall.

After that it's really easy to the Parc entrance. We went back to Chile Chico walking on the road instead of taking the cross country option, because0 there were still snow on the mountain. The first part is still pretty until the intersection, once you enter the valley of the Rio it is a bit more monotonous. Halfway there is an access to an annex of the national park, to go see the Cueva de las manos and valle lunar.

* '''Adrien Kunzli / 31-Oct-2022-04-November-2022 / Regular Hiking Northbound'''

All rivers crossing are easy to pass at this time of year. One tricky passage on the snow at the entrance of lago verde, very steep, but it was to avoid walking in the lake (frozen feet early in the morning).

No guards at the entrance at Tamango so i didnt pay the fee but didnt get my pass. Tamara gently gave me one at the camping of casa del piedra (apparently if i didnt have this pass i could not be admitted at Jeinimeni.) At Jeinimeni pass, again, nobody. So i were to the houses near and finaly find the guy. He took my pass and i get no fee in this NOBO direction.
Nice shortcut after the bridge of Rio de las Nieves (S 46° 47.274', W 071° 54.665') that can avoid you a little bit of the 4x4 unfinshing road and get you directly into the heart of this amazing and beautifull last part. So:
In front of the end of the bridge, you go up the big hill and go diagonally (or directly if you feel better) to join the path (pretty wild) of the gps (S 46° 45.843', W 071° 54.359'). Small stretches of paths are drawn rather well along this shortcut.

Not much good water between the bridge (brown water) and the puesto but the the puesto's water is of much better quality.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''GPT 35: Parque Patagonia/ Exploration Route via Valle Maullín Grande/ 2022 March-12/ 4 days / Tobias Schorcht, Jonas Grünewald '''

We hiked from Maullín Grande to Cochrane by chance. I always wanted to do the stretch from Chile Chico to Cochrane, but we had just 4 days left… When we hitchhiked northbounded from Villa O’Higgins, we luckily got picked up by Pascual Diaz, who is a experienced Mountain Guide (company Kalem) and took us all the way to his refugio in Maullín Grande. He also explained us, how to reach Cochrane on time while doing that crossing. The next day he took us to the end of the Road, where we started hiking around midday (-46,80390, -72,42001). It was a easy walk to the end of the Valley where we camped (-46,87872, -72,34138). The following day was hard, but we went up to the pass (1430m) in perfect sunshine. At (-46,87234, -72,30906) you will face a waterfall in a steep canyon. We recommend to walk on the left side (northwest) through the forest until you meet the riverbed again. The other side is also possible (we went there), but you have to climb higher in difficult terrain. From that point you can easily do a cross country walk up to the pass, where you have to cross the Glaciar (without cracks). It was absolutely stunning! Going down to the laguna is quite steep. I would not do it in bad weather conditions. When you meet the laguna, you can either walk on the left or right side. Both options are not easy. We crossed on the right (southern) side, which is ok in good weather conditions. There is one river crossing in between, which could be impossible with more water. Now we think it would have been easier to walk on the left (northern) side, although we would have had needed to cross the river before and after the laguna. Packrafting is an option as well, but since it only 1.5 km we don’t think it is worth it. Camped in a forest close to the regular trail dry and save. All in all we recommend this option to experienced hikers in good weather conditions. The hike to Cochrane was hard, because we had just 2 days for 80km. So we hitchhiked to the museum of Parque Patagonia and we even saw a puma at the Westwind Campsite! It seems like this puma shows up there regularly. I waited for that moment almost 5 months. My dream came true on my very last evening in nature. Thank you Patagonia for this great gift. 🙏

* '''2022-Feb / Packrafting / Mikhail Bogdanov&Masha Ovchinnikova'''

See for Rio Chacabuco and picturesamd discussion of the canyons.

https://web.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1319249015247648/

* '''Christmas2021 / GPT 35, NOBO, participants Janna & Matthias, dec 2021, duration 6 days from Cochrane to Conaf center at Lago Jeinimeni, then hitchhiked to Chile Chico'''

As recommended by a friend we opted for the following route through the Parque Nacional de Patagonia which is highly recommendable (first two days mainly GPT variants and options, afterwards GPT regular routes. There are several marked senderos in the beginning as 5 Los Huemules, 8 los Pumas, 7 los Guanacos, sendero 9, sendero Lagunas Altas etc.) as you can see in our attached tracking file.

All in all the trails were easy to find, some seemed to be still unhiked this year. To enter the park from Cochrane we had to pass a prohibition sign and climb over a no entrar gate. We didn't meet anyone on the first day, the settler didn't seem to be around. The following days we met two to three other hikers per day, but no rangers until the end at Conaf Center near Lago Jeinimeni, where we easily paid the park fees in arrears (8000 pp park entrance fee and an additional 6000 pp overnight stays in the park). We deliberately skipped the Conaf center in Valle Chacabuco on the advice of our friend.

Good to know:
- There is no water anymore at S 47.198557, W 72.474927 near the camping site but instead at S 47.203460, W 72.480747 and S 47.179332, W 72.465807
- There were many lagoons on our day 3 that weren't visibly well marked neither on our apps nor on the Garmin GPS.
- All the marked refugios along the trail are heavily damaged except Casa de Piedra
(closed on the 24th of dec) and Refugio Valle Hermoso (where we could even dry our
soaked shoes from the many river crossings next to the fireplace).
- From the refugio Valle Hermoso we did a side trip to the first glacier lake in the Valle
Estero Ventisquero without all the luggage.
- The río Jeinimeni water level was up to our waists and strong (note it had rained the
night before). According to others it was supposed to be knee-deep.
- Hitchhiking from Conaf center Jeinimeni to Chile Chico is possible when camping or day guests are leaving. As we arrived later in the afternoon we spent an extra night there.
- The supermercado sur in Chile Chico sells gas.

Track files and waypoints: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-98Ou9jk0porCVRp7CSFZ-KciXQ2PBzD

*'''30 Nov RR 5 days SOBO Frank'''

From Chile Chico I got the Bahia Jara bus & got off at the junction, saves a 6KM roadwalk. Walked 2KM up the road then on trail to the high plateau. The settler before the pass wasn't there but his dogs were a bit territorial so I avoided the puesto. I went across the high plateau & camped a bit before the second puesto in one long day. Camp marked on track file below the pass was not very good (boggy & sloping) so I continued down to camp near the stream. The second puesto is above the RR & not visible from it. Camping on the high plateau definitely not recommended. It is very exposed & the wind can & will knock tents. On day 2 I got to CONAF, they said a puma had been there every day the week before. Continued with many river crossings to the hut. There are trails marked with ribbons on LHS of the river SOBO, they go in on small loops which avoid some of the river crossings. Nearing the hut there is a stream flowing into the lake. At the lake it was too deep to cross. Bush bashed for about 40 metres to reach the ford. Camped outside the hut. Several river crossings on the third day. The double crossing is the crux. I avoided it by going over the bluff on LHS of river with a bit of tree bashing but I don't recommend that. The bluff descent is cliffed off with only a narrow breach where you can downclimb on trees. The breach is not obvious from above. Better to ford the river - it was running high but I met several hikers who had crossed it. Got to Casa de Pidera in 1 long day from the hut. You can cook in the Casa (they have a gas stove, electricity & showers) but have to camp outside. There are some trees to shelter from the wind. On the fourth day I started walking Sendero de Siete Lagunas (SSL) but I was using the 2019 track file which doesn't show the SSL. It had not been walked much recently & the route was not obvious. At the lake I lost the SSL in guanaco tracks. I continued around the lake & walked out about 2KM to the road. The descent to the road was cliffed off but I found a way down in a gully. Then I walked out the road past a meadow where hundreds of guanaco were grazing. Past the meadow I went in left on a side road to rejoin the RR. On the fifth day I walked past Daniel Huemul's puesto & was lucky to meet Daniel who was riding out & he showed me the way. He said the direct RR which goes right from the puesto is now overgrown & disused. Instead we went out to the left. There is a small road which goes in a loop & turns towards Lago Cochrane but with his directions I was able to shortcut it. I paid 15,000 CLP for entry & camping at CONAF Lago Jeinemeni & they didn't charge me anything at Casa de Piedra.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

*'''2020-Mar-18 , Tyler Wood, 7 Days Sobo'''

Amazing section to end my season with. I got a couple short hitches on the way up past Chile Chico. Up past the last puesto are some great areas to camp along a big boulder field. Maybe 2 km more. Beautiful and surrounded by Guanacos. Plenty of water too. Up near the top of the pass was very cold, but very beautiful, and even saw a bunch of flamingoes in the lakes.

On the way down the pass I tried to find the fore-mentioned route to the puesto to take the road the rest of the way down and didn’t really have any luck...found my way anyways and camped down by Rio sucio under a willow.

Into Jenimeni I got another little hitch. Once you cross the deeper river by Laguna esmeralda just keep those water shoes on, you’ll be crossing many more times.

I also was told by a ranger that sendero siete Lagunas wasn’t habilitado, but went for it anyways. Water is Not after Laguna Gutiérrez for a while, so make sure you fill up around there. After the pass there are a few more small
Streams to fill up.

The road walking to Tmango reserve seemed to take forever, but Walking/camping by Lago Cochrane was all worth it. At puesto Huemul Is when I got my first advice that the corona virus was a big deal. The woman told me there were 3 confirmed cases in Cochrane, I went there and booked my tickets straight home. Hasta le vista baby!!!

* '''2020-February-08 / 7 days / Southbound'''

Long and beautiful section. No major difficulties. Great diversity. Without hitchhiking, it took me 173 kilometers.

1st part / 2 days / Chile Chico to Div 217
At the beginning of the cross country, valley full of Guanacos. I camped just after the puesto, about 2 kilometers after the beginning of the cross country, before the pass, where there are still rocks to protect from the wind.
As related in previous reports, after camp 279, you will stumbled upon a fence. Go on the East along the fence, cross it, and you will find a trail to the next Puesto and then the trail goes down from the puesto to the dirt road. You will avoid cross country this way.

2nd part / 2,5 days to Casa de Piedra
Popular part. Groups of hikers along the way. 8000CLP entrance fee + 6000 CLP for 2 nights sleeping inside the park.

3rd part / 2,5 days / Sendero de las 7 lagunas
After Casa de Piedra, I followed the GPS regular route which took me to the beginning of the Sendero of 7 lagunas. CONAF said it was not "habilitado" but it is actually well marked. The good thing is that there will be no hikers on this part, except when you approach the end, along the lago Cochrane. The trail is very different from the GPS tracks but no difficulties to find it. So, don't worry not having the GPS tracks.
At S 47º08.015' W 72º18.948', there is a nice place to camp and also, the trail will merge with the optional route OH-TL-V@35-02F-#001 You can then follow this track and then go back to the Regular Route to reach Cochrane.

* Martin Lizondo / 28-Jan-2020 / Regular Hiking Southbound

The section took me 6 days. Some tips:

The first part from Chile Chico has a +20 km cross country walk. The wind is extremly strong and the route very high, with no forest protection. I recommend spending the first night behind the trees of El Ciprés (the settler Orlando Vazquez allows people to pass and is very kind) or near to the puesto at the end of the minor road at 46º 36' 5,3" S, 71º 48' 45,05" O (Miguel Pacheco is very kind too). Enough water all along the route.

The Jeinimeni section of Parque Patagonia is very easy and well marked. Entrance to foreigners costs CLP 8000 plus 6000 if spending the night. There’s a shelter with place for fire and tents after 18 km.

Valley Aviles to Casa de Piedra is also easy and beautifull, with many free camping spots. Casa de Piedra costs CLP 8000 per night.

The rest of the gps track is very different from the actual trail, called “Sendero de las Siete Lagunas”. I recommend taking this route instead of the old gps track, as it’s very well maintained. At Lago la Pepa ( 47º 7' 45,19" S, 72º 18' 41,54" O ) the trail crosses an old overgrown minor road, which coincides with the gps track and takes to Puesto Huemul (47º 11' 25,31" S, 72º 26' 6,98" O). If going to the left, you’ll reach the puesto, if going up to the right you’ll end the official “Sendero de las Siete Lagunas” near to the main park center. Other hiking options are possible from that point, but the regular route to Puesto Huemul is the shortest.

From Puesto Huemul, the trail goes down near to the lake Cochrane through Sendero “Coigües” and “Carpinteros”. Well marked and signed, this trails will take you to the start of Tamango section, very near to Cochrane.

* '''2020-Jan-27 / GPT35 New Route: Lago General Carrera (Fachinal) to Parque Patagonia (Lago Jenimeni or “Casa de Piedra”) / 5 days / Meylin Meylin Elisabeth Ubilla González and Jan Dudeck'''

Based on a recommendation from Tobias Hellwig W and Daniel Mahn Borkowsky we investigated a new route that I did no had on my radar until a few weeks ago. This route provides an alternative access from the southern coast of Lago General Carrera into the Parque Patagonia and is of interest for packrafters and hikers.

The route is a traditional animal trail that was used by the settlers of Fachinal to drive cattle to a large summer pasture that is now part of Parque Patagonia (sector Jenimeni). With the enforcement of keeping domestic animals out of the protected park area a 5 km trail section inside Parque Patagonia lacks maintenance but is still quite well traversable for GPT standards. Apart from this short trail section most of the route is very scenic and nice to walk but practically unknown. Only one tourism company runs guided hiking trips along this route about once per months. Apart from this occasionally use the full traverse seams not to be done anymore.

Due to lack of trail markings we spend about one extra day in searching and following the poorly maintained 5 km trail section but with our GPS record other hikers should struggle much less than we did and will be able to walk in 4 to 5 moderate hiking days from Fachinal at the southern shore of Lago General Carrera to “Casa de Piedra” in the center of Parque Patagonia in the Valle Chacabuco.

We hiked the route northbound as we considered the option to cross Lago General Carretera at its shortest narrow by packraft. Here the lake is only 3.2 km wide but we finally did not cross this rather dangerous lake due to suboptimal wind conditions.

Fachinal to Rio Aviles River Crossing:

A well maintained “cattle highway” leads from Fachinal from the road bridge of Rio Aviles along the western/southern side of Rio Aviles to the limit of Parque Patagonia. This roughly 20 km long trail section gets regularly cleaned with chain saws to facilitate access to the pastures along Rio Aviles for free-rooming cattle. Most of the trees that have fallen on the trail have been cut to keep the trail easily traversable. Some hikers might find the “pointless up and down” annoying but this trail was created by men that move on horses that did not had to ascent and descent themself. About 1 km before crossing the Rio Aviles two signs indicate the limit of Parque Patagonia (Sector Jenimeni) and ban access for unauthorized people and domestic animals (without providing any clue who might be authorized and who not ;-). From the park limit the trail descents steep to Rio Aviles but remain well maintained to ford.

This trail section requires two possibly demanding river crossings that can become impossible during snow melt in spring, after heavy rain or on the afternoon or evening of hot days (melting water from glaciers!). To keep the route traversable in such circlesumstances the tourism company has installed in both locations steel ropes (to cross these two rivers hooked up in harness to the steel rope without even touching the water).

Rio Aviles River Crossing to the Pass (1150 m above Sea Level):

After the river crossing the trail condition suddenly changes. Fallen trees don’t get cut anymore and undergrowth is not cleaned by machete. It’s mainly the remaining path on the ground that indicates the former animal trail. Advance is slow and in various locations care must be taken to not loose the trail. Here you will need to climb over fall trees and push occasionally through dense vegetation until reaching an altitude of 950 m. At this altitude the forest floor opens up (no dense undergrowth any more) and the trail disappears completely. Here walking becomes easy again. Walk the following kilometer through the open forest following roughly the GPS track until reaching the end of the forest and the small lake after the 1150 m high pass.

An advise for northbound hikers:

Finding the first signs of the trail in the open forest was a struggle as we had no information where exactly the trail starts to descent. I searched at least 3 or 4 hours in a 400 m wide and 1200 m long section of open forest till I found a first old machete mark on a tree that indicated the location of the trail. Carefully searching and following similar marks I finally found the descending trail.

Searching northbound we lost the trail again when reaching Rio Aviles at the bottom of the valley and searched half a day for the correct continuation. A well visible and noticeably used trail next to Rio Aviles leads directly to an suitable river ford but from there a well maintained trail continues 1 km in the wrong direction (upstream). Only after bushbashing 1 km along the river shore downstream we recognized with surprise a second river ford (now the correct river ford) which connects to the well maintained trail section in the correct direction. In hindsight we understood that the well maintained trail simply continues upstream along Rio Aviles and that this trail crosses twice the Rio Aviles. Due to a partially not evident trail section on the other side of we did not recognize this when hitting this trail on the bottom of the valley and took the wrong direction to the wrong river ford.

Now hikers with our GPS record and a GPS should not struggle to find and follow this trail as we did.

Pass (1150 m above Sea Level) to Valle Hermoso Refugio:

After leaving the forest at the 1150 m high pass the most scenic part of this route starts. A roughly 15 km long cross country route leads over pastures and river sediments past 3 lakes and two glaciers to the Refugio Valle Hermoso. Occasionally signs of a trail are visible but due to the open landscape a continuous trail neither exists nor is needed.

Near the Refuge Valle Hermoso this route connects with regular route that leads along Valle Aviles (diffrent river with the same name!) to “Casa de Piedra” in the center of Parque Patagonia.

Access to Trail Head at Fachinal:

There are multiple buses per week from Chile Chico to Puerto Tranquilo on the Carretera Austral that pass Fachinal.

Monday and Friday runs a subsidized bus from Chile Chico to Fachinal and back to Chile Chico (One round trip in the morning and a second one in the evening).
8:30 leaving Chile Chico
9:30 in Fachinal
11:00 returning to Chile Chico
17:30 leaving Chile Chico
18:30 in Fachinal
20:00 returning to Chile Chico

If you wish to cross Lago General Carrera to continue hiking in the Cordillera Avellano North of the lake speak to Carloz Amoros in Fachinal (mobile: +56 9 76267029 / price around 30‘000 CLP) or Pascual Diaz de Mallin Grande.

* '''2020-January 23 / Oreste Marquis/ Northbound : 8 days '''

Going northbound. I followed the route until the second settler at the puesto Tejuela. From there, until the optional route @35-02e#001,
I could not find the approximate trail in the files. I manage to find another one which is call siete Lagunas. It is really easy to follow and really beautiful! I find it near km 18 and keep walking on it until km 38. It is the end of it and is at the campground near Lago Gutiérrez. For more informations go reed Martin post in recent alerts and suggestion. I met him on the trail and he updated the wikiexplora before me. From the beginning to Casa Piedra took me 3 days. Then I hiked to the end of the reserve in an other 3 days. Lots of rivers to cross but felt pretty safe for all of them even the one higher between Lagos Jeinimeni and Verde. The cross country part the next day was my favorite of the hole trip! Awesome views, a lot of wildlife, just need to check a little bit more the gps! Last day, I headed to Chile Chico without any problem. Overall, I love it! Enjoyed it as much as GPT40.

* '''2020-January / Matthieu / Northbound : 7.5 days "tranquilito"'''
Incredible trekk, lots of different type of views and soil, my favorite since El Chalten. Money required for passing by the reserves !!
I hitchhiked 10 km on the road to Casa Piedra, and 12 km between Jeinemini qnd the beginning of the trail that goes north in the mountain to join Chile Chico.

'''1st part : Reserve Tamango''' : 6000 CLP the entry
I took the old "Huemul trail" in the Tamango reserve, taking the left route at the "Camp 284" It is an old trail for 4x4, so very easy, and closed to vehicles now.

'''2nd part : The road to Casa Piedra :''' the rangers I crossed were all agreed that it was not permitted to camp aside of the road (so the information is different that in Nov). One officiql camping at the end of Tamango reserve (WestWind) and one at Casa Piedra 26 km after. 8000 CLP each. At Westwind (not verified, only inforñqtions for guardaparques): no accomodations, only baño. At Casa Piedra . real big house, hot shower, electricity, place to cook.

'''3rd part : Reserve Jenemeni :''' Entry 8000 CLP. For the camping, the ranger told me that it was permitted to camp wherever I wanted, so the information differs too from november. And at the exit, I told the ranger about my "savage" camping in the conversation, and he didnt tic at all, so no stress. The rangers are very nice !
Good trekk, easy to follow. One very good refuge in the valle Hermoso where fire is possible. a more open refuge/camping site by the east shore of Lago Verde.
Many river crossing, all safe except one, before the Laguna Esmeralda. Strong current, and people choose many different way with different profundness. Better do it in the morning, being a glaciar river (I could effectively compare between late in the afternoon and the morning and it is very different).

'''Last part, to Chile Chico by the mountain :''' Amazing views, totaly different climate, more dry and with only bushes.
At the beginning of the Cross country after the 4x4 road, I would advise to go a few meters west from the GPS tracks, to the east side of the river. There is effectively a fence on the west ridge, and a good trail on the east ridge that can avoid you the difficult crossing of many bushes, and that goes directly to the puesto.
Two puestos, The 135 of metal being used by the locals (real bed inside), so just putted the tent outside. The second one 134 is actually a real house. Two mens were here when I arrived, working with the animals. I could put the tent near the house and take water from the sink outside. Many dogs, all nice.

* '''Mum, Sis and I / Southbound / 11 days '''

Well. What an interesting and varied section. Also the longest walk I think we'd all done. It took us 11 days in the end with a couple of longer side trips. Interestingly, when we emerged from the park it was closed, there was martial law in effect, a curfew in place. Borders closed. Only a week to get back to Santiago to catch the last flights back to Australia... Anyway. We're heading back now. Got temperature tested as we reentered Chili Chico this morning. Waiting for the boat across the lake mañana in la mañana. No buses out of town. Enough rambling...

As always, thanks to the others before us that have taken the time to comment and provide feedback. Here's my two cents.

Firstly here are some landmarks to make it easier for others to orient themselves:

El Ciprés
http://ge0.me/oGvL0ey6_7/El_Ciprés
ge0://oGvL0ey6_7/El_Ciprés
Casa Piedra
http://ge0.me/4GvJGSxqPH/Casa_Piedra_%28Stone_House%29
ge0://4GvJGSxqPH/Casa_Piedra_%28Stone_House%29
Westwind
http://ge0.me/wGvC_gnJaX/Westwind
ge0://wGvC_gnJaX/Westwind

Camping in Chile Chico:
El Carro is supposed to be the cheapest place to stay in town. Though if you want a hot shower it's the same as Kon-aiken next door. We stayed at neither so can't really comment, but there were a lot of people staying at Kon-aiken and next to none at El Carro which might be indicitive of value for money or just the fact they are a little closer to the centre of town.
El Carro however was the only one willing to look after some things for us.
We also visited a hostel, but the owner was unfortunately very rude.

El carro
4k frío
5k caliente
1k por día por mochila

Kon-aiken
5k pp / noche
No baggage service

Part 1: Chili Chico to Jeinemeni
In the end we decided to cache things in the bushes just outside of town. Mum and my sister got a lift to the Bahía Jara cruz whist I was caching. Unfortunately I had to walk all the way to El Ciprés where my mum and sister had been enjoying a nice conversation with Orlando Vazquez who allowed us to pass but emphasised the dangers and didn't really recommend crossing.
Passing through the gate a couple of utes were exiting. Apparently there is a new mine up in the mountains and they didn't really want us to walk up. They admitted they just worked there.
Turn off the main rd that assumably heads to the mine about here: -46.57775, -71.82666
Goucho Miguel Pacheco passed us on the way up herding some cattle and we talked to him at the puesto for a while. We also gave him one of the Australian coins we'd been carrying around. He seemed to believe it was everyone's right to pass. "People pass through here all the time "."Just yesterday a lad passed by "."It's the shortest route across the mountains "
Anyway. We camped in the rocks just outside the park boundaries (as mentioned by??).
We then camped two nights up on the windy plateau. Our side trip to Valle Lunes was amazing. I'd recommend it. But be careful with wind. Oh and did anyone mention the guanacos?
Unfortunately I think the water wasn't very clean on this part. Sheep, cows, guanacos, birds... It's the first time in Chile I've wished I took my water filter along. We had some sore stomachs.
Dropping down the other side we hit the mentioned fence (about here -46.72574, -71.90211). We crossed, but would recommend following it to the left until you get to a corner. I'm not sure where it starts, but there is a trail running on the outside of the fence to the puesto. We then followed a sheep trail that ran high on the left (east) of the valley. Very good but it bypassed Las Abutardas completely and seemed to be heading towards Laguna los Flamencos instead. We ended up cutting down to the road where León passed us heading into town, a little confused why we hadn't taken the 'proper trail'.
We camped the night at the Río El Sucio camp. Not really recommended.
We walked the road and stayed at Río Las Vacas for a bit which is at the border of the park and a nicer place to camp. (There is a good stream between the two).

Part 2: Jeinemeni to Casa Piedra
It was 8k to enter the park (for foreigners) and an additional 6k for camping in Valle Hermoso. The section to the refugio (-46.84092, -72.14078) was very nice. This is the only shelter still standing. The others included in the track files were not really enterable.
Heading to the refugio (where everyone seems to camp) you cross the small ankle deep creek exiting Laguna Esmeralda and then the deeper river between Lago Verde and Jeinemeni. This might have been the trickiest but when we crossed it wasn't really bad. We then had two more smaller crossings before passing through Portezuela La Gloria (1100m) to cross Estero Ventisquero and the other river running down the main valley.
The next day we did the popular side trip to the glacier in this valley: -46.80924, -72.20116
We wondered if it was the same way Jan et al entered recently?
From the refugio to Valle Avilés there are no compulsory river crossings if you stick to the somewhat scrubby trail to the left (south) of the valley. The first crossing we did was Río Avilés shortly followed by the tributary. So only 8 crossings (wet feet) on the RR.

We walked from the refugio to Casa Piedra in a day. It was closed so we camped on the other side of the Rd.

Part 3: Casa Piedra to Cochrane
From casa piedra we took the aforementioned Sendero las Siete Lagunas. It is not it the track files but indeed very well marked with numbered markers every kilometre. I'll upload a kml with the markers I recorded as well as some of the water bodies I sketched.
After the stream running into Lago Gutiérrez there wasn't much water until Lago la Pepa.
You will briefly intersect with a road here: -47.14006, -72.37138. The road seems to run down to Puesto Tejuela coinciding with OH-TL-V@35-02F-#001 which I think is incorrectly labelled as TL. Part of RH-TL-I@35-99.0+30.0 too should be marked as MR. You'll intersect this road before taking it down to Lago Cochrane.
We passed the occupied dwelling (Daniel Huemul?) but the man wearing a shirt emblazoned with Parque Patagonia seemed afraid to approach us (another hint the world had gone Corona crazy). He wouldn't let us take the RR so we followed the road for a bit before taking another newly made trail also not in the track files.
Everything after that was very easy to follow.
Everything was abandoned at the entrance and the gate locked. People avoided us on the streets and covered their face when passing us.
We grabbed some needed food (we were very short after 11 days!) and got on the WiFi. Wow! How things had changed! Martial law in place and a curfew in place, we slept under a bridge with some Colombians and caught a bus back to Chili Chico in the morning. Waiting for the boat across the lake tomorrow now.

Links to files :
Kilometre markers: https://www.dropbox.com/s/fuzt4xacxjjvvg4/kms.kmz?dl=0
Water bodies: https://www.dropbox.com/s/uz1ei95s1913xvb/water.bodies.kmz?dl=0
Other planning:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uk9ym56gufwk4zq/planning.kmz?dl=0

* '''2019 Dec / Olrik/ Northbound '''

Amazing part of the GPT, from Cochrane ou enter in the Tamango national reserve and pay 6000CLP for the entrance. We took several trails to get to Valle Chacabuco : Las Aguilas, Las Lengasm Los Condores, Laguna Altas. Great views. We had a snow storm at the pass though. There you end up in a paid campground. From there we walked the dirt road to Casa Piedras in Valle Chacabuco, it was beautiful with lots of guanacos. Then we took the Las Aviles sendero. We camped near the first river crossing as it was late and waited for the morning to cross. It is normally not possible to wild camp in the park but the guardaparque told us to camp there if the river crossing is not sage. The rest of the trail is easy to follow next to the river. There is a pass then you descend to Valle Hermoso and to lago Jeinimeni. It was just gorgeous and easy to follow with great weather. Be aware of the numerous river crossings. In lago Jeinimeni there is a paid campground. From there you can hitchhike, walk, or pay a transportation at the entrance of the park (15000Clp pp) but I'm not sure if this is a regular thing. We ended up hitchhiking to get to Chile Chico.

* '''2019-Nov-28/ Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe/ 5.5days/ Northbound / Regular Hiking Route (Cochrane to Chile Chico) with OH-32-2-#003/'''

This section might have been our favorite out of the whole Group H, where the diversity of the landscape was our favorite part (also including weather and trail conditions). The NP was entered at Tamango just outside of Cochrane. Registration is mandatory, the entrance fee is at 8000 CLP. The ranger asked us to explain our route and since the regular Hiking route did not seem familiar to them, they told us to take the optionals route going north over the pass to WestWinds campground and then do the road walk Eastwards.
The pass had some snow patches on the Southern side but was easy to traverse. At the Valley Chacabuco (another entrance to the national park) we got asked for our permits and the route we plan on taking. We heard different information on if it is allowed to camp at the road or not (there were signs that told us not to do it but the ranger said it is okay). After the roadwalk, we passed another ranger station where we had to register and sign a responsibility form telling that we plan to leave at Lago Jeinimeni (and telling that we're only allowed to stay at designated campsites). The hike from there is extremely beautiful and super diverse, the trail well maintained. The rivers were at higher flow but all fords were doable.
We camped next to the Refugio because we still weren't sure about the camping rules (other hikers we met said they were told that it's okay to camp everywhere along the river). Leaving the NP at Lago Jeinimeni was straightforward, but it's mandatory to check out at the rangers office. The cross-country section after the road walk was a bit slow on the way up due to many bushes and hilly terrain. We found a nice trail next to the fence leading up to the puesto when going up the ridge on the Eastern side. From the puesto we took a short steep uphill after which the terrain became more open and easier to travel on. It was very windy and snowy in the mountains, which made it difficult to walk at times and it felt like the temperatures were rather low.
The lagoons on the way up are filled with exciting birds (flamingos!) and guanacos are running around on the whole plain. Once reaching the plateau we headed down in a pretty straight line which was easier than the uphill until we reached the road

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Chile Chico has two supermarkets. Sell gas.

*Cochrane is a decently sized town with three mid-range supermarkets. The largest one, which is a grocery and department store, is located adjacent to the town square. There are many lodging and restaurant options. Be sure to withdraw an ample amount of money here because most of the businesses in the next town, Villa O’Higgins, only take cash and there is no ATM.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*2025 / MiaimZelt
Buses (starting at Terminal de buses in Chile Chico) that enable you to skip the first 7-8km of Roadwalk when hiking SoBo:

Turismo Tramal. Chile Chico - Bahia Jara. Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 8:30 & 16:30.
WhatsApp: +56 9 7538 0178

Buses Interlagos from Chile Chico to Puerto Rio Tranquilo: Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday 9:00.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*2023-Mar-31 to 2023-Apr-06 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option J / Martin & Helena

PN Patagonia closed some sectors on the first Monday in April, so we were the last ones to get a permission and do this section ‘legally’. Be prepared for this if you want to do this part in April or later. The problem is they close Casa Del Piedra and probably won’t let you pass to that sector from Lago Jeinemeni, where the entrance stays open for longer time. Sneaking around the guards house early in the morning or just not be specific about your plans might work if needed, its very unlikely you would meet anyone on the way from the main entrance.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT35 - RN Lago Jeinimeni]]

=Images=
[[file:Greater Patagonian Trail (7).jpg|left|GPT35 - RN Lago Jeinimeni]]

GPT32 (Cerro Castillo)

2025-03-17T11:25:48Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

* '''2025-03-04 to 2025-03-08 / 5 days / Packrafting and hiking/ NOBO / Option 6 / Tomáš&Natalie'''

Not important prelude: We were not going to do this. Several continuous days of rain were forecasted. We meant to take a ferry north from Puerto Chacabuco. However, there were protests and the road to Puerto Aysén was closed on Monday and the buses were cancelled. The first bus of the day at 13:45 only went a few km before Puerto Aysén, where the prostest were. We were supposed to walk through them and board another bus. Locals said that the ferry always leaves later than the schedulet 15:00 and we should make it. But when we reached the protests, somebody called the port and the ship sailed on time. Given we also left our tent poles in Cochrane and were arranging for them to be sent to Coyahaique by bus (thanks Thijmen!!) and then by post (from Coyhaique to Santiago) and that the forecast was improving somewhat, we took it as a sign to do this option which we have previously mulled, so we returned to Coyhaique instead of hunting the ferry by hitching to Puerto Cisnes, where it would be at 11PM. We cursed ourselves throughout when it was cold, rainy and flooded, but you only truly remember the good stuff later on, so now it feels good. We walked in drysuits 80 percent of the time. We would never want to hike in such rainy and windy cold weather without drysuits and drybags.

Overall, I think we are the first who have done this hike since it has been promoted from exploratory options. The GPS is correct. Hiking wise it is easy, possibly easier (less exposed, we had no issues doing it in the rain) than RR. Fords are much worse though, at least in rainy weather. Scenic-wise it is hard to compare, we had no views in the clouds. But I assume the RR is prettier. Here you will meet noone, if that is a huge bonus for you, this could be recommended. Or when denied entry on RR when going NOBO or if you have done RR previously. It is also obviously attractive for packrafters as it nicely connects to Rio Paloma/31P-01.

(The rapid under the bridge over Rio Ibanez at Cerro Castillo looked just like big waves (class III?) from the bridge, but do your own scouting, I saw it twice only for 5 seconds each, I just was surprised it did not look that bad.)

On Tuesday morning, we took a bus from Coyhaique to Cochrane and got out at Cerro Castillo, where we waited 4 hours for the bus from Cochrane that carried our poles. A gomeria here -46.12096, -72.16249 sharpened our machete very well and for free! When the poles arrived, we soon got a hitch to -46.13355, -72.41950. In the pouring rain and wind, we assembled the packraft and went 1 km down Rio Ibanez to option 10A. The river was flooded, all of the riverbed was under water. Luckily it was raining less then. Camped in the rain here: -46.11081, -72.40580. The cable car upstream is still there, no idea if it is functional though.

The trail up still exists, but it seems it had not been used this year, so it is not the fastest. Shortly after entering the forrest for the first time somewhere around -46.10651, -72.41083, there is a meadow with some bamboo where the other side of the trail is hard to find even with GPS, but it is there. The trail is good in the forrest, but in the open around -46.10263, -72.41470, it is somewhat overgrown, but not too bad, I did not use the machete. The option 06 is preferable to 06B. I think this is what "Mum, Sis and I" did. 06B is still a trail at least in its beginning and it was done by Jan and he did not seem to like the last BB climb (I talked to him). On our route, I would say the BB&CC should be more CC&BB&TL. First part is easy if steep descent in open terrain. Around here -46.09437, -72.42397, there was a trailhead. I however lost (not hitting "save" on new waypoints is a plague!) the exact coordinates, so look for it. The trail is maybe an animal trail and is steep, but it leads you down to a stream. Cross the stream here: -46.09371, -72.42521, where the animal (?) trail continues. Then keep to the ridge until you exit the forest. The forest is indeed quite open (the more the higher you are) and sometimes there is something that looks like a trail. Good camps with access to water would be -46.09088, -72.43224 and at the end of the BB&CC (not the one indicated in the files). This part took us maybe 2 or 3 hours, but we were slow. Camp without water possible here too: -46.09290, -72.42823. It was starting to rain when we reached the open terrain, so we put on drysuits. The meadows did not seem to be grazed and water was kind of everywhere. The traverse is however easy and not exposed. Safety-wise, we felt good even in the rain and medium visibility. It was not windy but we got cold (took us some time to get warm in the tent). The forest before our campsite somewhere around -46.05323, -72.47485 is very open - count no time penalty for walking there.

We had a late morning as it was still raining. When it stopped, we put on drysuits and went down the meadow and then it started to rain again. The meadow is being grazed and marshy and I do not think it ever gets really dry. Sometimes it seemed there is a bit of a trail in the forest on the west side, but we mostly walked on the meadow. Puesto del Avion stands, is semidry and kind of dirty. The trail after the meadow is well used and clear and muddy. The river was roaring (looked kayakable from high up, it is continuous rapids at least up to clas IV, but we obviously did not see all of it) and we avoided the first four fords that are close to each other by staying on the left side. This is doable, it takes a bit of time but the forest is open, just stay close to water. The ford 10.6 (-45.99676, -72.37790) was a clear nogo and initially we also tried to stay on the right. It went for a bit, but it gets steeper and steeper and cliffier and cliffier. We camped up there and tried to go further the next day, but turned back one third of the distance to the next ford. Traversing seems bad, but possibly crosing a sidestream here -45.99541, -72.37794, reaching above tree line here: -45.98498, -72.37741 and then going down -45.97970, -72.36782 might work, but the way down would be steep and it would possibly take a whole day, so you might just as well wait for the water to go down. In 12 hourse of no rain during the nightu, the water went down by about 15 cm at a narrow spot.

Back at the ford, it was still too strong. However, about 100m upstream (somewhere around -45.99786, -72.37877), where the locals' makeshift camp is, one can cross the river kneedeep where it is wider. First go in the middle, then about 50 m downstream and the cross to the other side and then along the river to the trail. The trail then goes under cliffs, the whole upper valley is quite pretty. The next ford 8.2 was also strong. Without backpack, I managed to cross it but a much better whitewaterless spot is about 60 m upstream in front of a big rock. The river was still strong, Natalie struggled a bit with it even with my help. It was mid-thighs and pushy in the middle. Having lost a lot of time on the fords and attempted traverse, we camped at -45.95672, -72.35307, behind a new gate. The trail from there continues at least to -45.94945, -72.36639, where it fords the river (easy). I did not explore more, but I wonder if it joins option 8 at a clearing and buildings here: -45.93527, -72.42878, as the corresponding pass seems low and there do not seem to be any sensible other destinations in this valley. Somebody with more time and food should explore more - try to reserve at least half a day for it! There was also abandoned puesto here: -45.95000, -72.36480.

Ford 4.9 did not go down overnight, it was under our ùknees. Natalie forded a bit upstream where it is more pushy but boulders and stones give you more grip. I had no issues crossing at the proper ford, where the riverbad is exposed rock. It is not flat and not too slippery though. The rest of the valley is easy and finally it was a sunny day without drysuits! Bridge 30.4 on Option 5 was standing, so that still waits for its first log. It was a sunny Saturday and there were several cars (fisher and tourists) at Bridge 31, so hitching from there seems feasible. There was also some traffic on the less minor road to Lago Caro. We however went down on Rio Paloma on 31-01P.

*'''2025-FEB-26 to 2025-FEB-28 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

This is a short but very diverse section with a variety of terrain, picturesque forests, and stunning views. The memory of clambering up steep slopes in the northern part of the stage and then gazing at the imposing, dominating Cerro Castillo (2675 m above sea level) to the south is etched deeply in our minds. The section passes through Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo, which means there is an entry fee and camping is only allowed at designated sites (see below).

Challenges:
Exposed terrain and clambering at kilometers 28.3-30.0. Caution and slow progress are necessary here. It is impassable in bad weather. There is nothing too complicated on BB + CC at kilometers 38.1-38.7; the forest is relatively clear and there is a narrow trail in some places.

Fees:
At the time of our passage, the entry fee for Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo was (for foreigners per person) 18,000 CLP for one day, 24,000 CLP for two days, and 28,000 CLP for three or more days in the park. We paid 24,000 CLP each upon exiting the park (X {32} [60.6/316]) since we spent one night outside the park.

Bivouacing:
Camping within Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo is, according to information from the gatekeepers, only allowed at officially designated campsites marked in OSM map sources:

1) Segundo camping (-46.00818, -72.10410)
2) Camping El Bosque (-46.06429, -72.16909)
3) Camping Los Porteadores. (-46.08888, -72.23543)

We only used the last mentioned site as we chose the fastest route through the national park.

These campsites have designated spots for tents, wooden seating, and dry toilets. They were quite crowded in the evenings. Other campsites found in OSM sources or track files are not official and thus illegal.

Water:
Water is not a problem; the trail frequently crosses a stream or river.

Resupply:
In Villa Frei, we bought supplies for 2.5 days in a small shop with basic groceries, and we had a little left over. In the center of Villa Cerro Castillo, there is a well-stocked shop called Janito, and a bit further along is a stylish food truck made from an old bus.

'''2025-02-23 to 2025-02-26 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 2, RR, Option E, Option 3, Option F / Tyson'''

Bus from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas (BusCarolina). Was full on a Sunday, but a friendly worker at the station said I should insist, so I ended up standing in the back for the hour and half ride.

Day 1: Guard at the station gave the usual advice to hit the passes early to avoid the afternoon wind. Easy to follow trail, very scenic. Some wet cow trails at one point, but just following the river, so easy. A few ankle deep crossings. Went up to Laguna Penon (called Laguna El Turbio on some maps) in the afternoon. The wind and rain started up on the way. Made it up there to momentarily enjoy a whitecapped laguna and pelting rain.

Day 2: Crossed Pass Penon by 10:30 or so. One could easily do Horquetas to Camp Bosque in a day, weather permitting. Made it to Bosque by late lunch so went up to Laguna Tempano / unnamed glacier viewpoint. Got a half hour of sun up there before the wind turned it to white caps again. NOTE: there are a handful of campsites about 20 meters past the first main grouping that you hit. Everyone stopped at the first ones, while those stayed empty

Day 3: Late start but made it to Cerro Castillo by 11:30. Covered in clouds so waited about an hour to see if they would clear but more kept rolling in and wind picked up so I went on. About half way down the other side I look back to absolutely clear skies. Made it to camp Neozelandes (I recommend it over Porteadores) by maybe 4:30, set up camp. Up to Laguna Duff by 6ish, plenty of time to enjoy the remaining sun up there. At camp Porteadores, saw a hiker I met on day 1 with a bandage on her face. Her group of four had skipped over camp Turbio, so had crossed Castillo the day before. She described the wind as lifting her and another hiker up and dropping them on the ground. They scooted the whole way down to Porteadores on their backsides. Other hiker ended up with stitches in her leg (shout out to Marnie for some good looking backcountry sutures)

Day 4: Utterly clear day, couldn’t stand the thought of not seeing Cerro Castillo so hiked back up. Much easier to see the cairns and markers on the way up. People were just lounging up there without clouds or wind. Went down Option F, which was full of day hikers making the most of the cloudless day. NOTE the last half of option F goes onto private land now closed to the public. The rangers and physical maps will tell you to go half way down Option F and then take another trail going southwest. This is all well-beaten and impossible to miss. I actually completely missed the fork. Downside is that the trail spits you out further from the Villa. So if you can’t get a hitch (like me) then you’ve got another 5K to walk to town. Got charged the 28K pesos for 3+ days at the end.

25-02-17- 25-02-19/ 2,5 days / SOBO / OH02-RR-Var. E -RR-OH3-RR / Volker

Scenic, easy, short - nice section. Water everywhere, all river crossings dry feet. A highway for gpt standards.
Day 1: Bus (Don Carlos) from Coyhaique to Cochrane at 8 a.m., got out at Las Horquetas. Some hikers, but not overcrowded. Variant E to Laguna Turbia and the glacier recommended. There are several camp spots on the way to the Laguna and close to it.
Day 2: Started early, nobody on the easy and pittoresque way up and down the first pass. Crowds between El Bosque and the mirador, many day hikers. The scrambling up and down the 2nd pass probably isn‘t fun on a rainy and misty day. Lots of hikers at the Porteadores and Neozelandes campings. Again several camp spots on the way to the Laguna Duff and close to it.
Day 3: Short walk to Laguna Duff, very nice in the early morning before the crowds arrive. Met them (many dayhikers) on the way down. If you prefer to donate 28k to a charity instead of a Chilean state body - turn right at the sign „1km“ and walk along the river to the MR. Got a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo from the parking 1,5km after the junction

* ''' 2025-FEV-13 > 15 / 2 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : <strike>GPT31</strike>+GPT32+GPT33
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : difficile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : pierriers, bush-bashing

Les 15 premiers km sont à l'image du GPT31. La vue est sympa mais la gravel road est ennuyeuse. J'ai marché 6 km puis on m'a emmené au lac La Paloma. Vraiment magnifique et populaire. Ensuite j'ai repris ma rando en revenant au km 15,5. Il y a un ford dès la sortie de la gravel road. La montée se fait bien, quelques clôtures à franchir mais la plupart ont été cassées par des randonneurs pour faciliter le passage. Il y a un ford au km 23,2, puis j'ai campé au km 23,6. Je suis allé au point de vue de la 32-C, ça vaut le détours. Il y a pas mal de cairns sur le sentier et on voit qu'il était très fréquenté par le passé. Mais ce n'est plus le cas et certains passages sont difficile. D'ailleurs le point le plus difficile est mal placé sur la trace GPS, la partie escalade se trouve au point 45.938328° S 72.086493° W. Au km 34, après le petit torrent, le sentier est envahi et j'ai beaucoup utilisé ma machette. J'ai perdu une guêtre dans la bataille. Après le km 35 le sentier est plutot dégagé. Au km 39 on rejoins les sentiers du parc et ils sont plutôt bien entretenus et très utilisés. Attention les camps aux km 48 et 50,5 sont fermés temporairement et deplacés au km 49. En passant devant le péage à la sortie du parc, j'ai dit que je venais de Lago La Paloma et ils m'ont laissé passer. J'ai essayé le stop sur les 6 km de gravel road mais sans succès.

'''2025-02-16 to 2025-02-19 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / optie 2, RR, option E, 3, nameless laguna / Thijmen Scholten'''</span

* Hitchhiking to las Horquitsas took longer than expected (4 hours)
* I arrived at 15.30 and I was still allowed to enter. But you have to register otherwise the guard will run behind you (happened to me).
* At least 3 fjords on option 2 so sandals or something would be nice. I decided to get my trail runners wet but regretted it next cold morning putting on wet cold shoes and socks.
* The side trip to the lagunas are very beautiful go there! (leave your backpack down,)
* If you walk long days it's not busy in the park all the people gather at the camping sites and stop hiking at 15.00.
* Water: Easy everywhere except from Laguna Castillo to camp las porteadores has no water (3 hours walk).
* Camping: at official sites or if you like a camp with more scenery you can camp at Laguna Peñon and Laguna Castillo.

'''2025-Jan-31 to 2025-Feb-02 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 2p, Var f., RR / Nimrod & Tamar
'''

We took the bus from Coyhaique at 9:00. It took about 1.5 hours, cost 10,000 clp each.
The trail from Los Horquetas was well maintained. There were a few small fords along the way.
Camped at Rio Tirbio with 10 more people.
We left our bags and went to Laguna peñon and back, about 2 hours detour. The trail to the lake is marked well. The Laguna was quiet small and had milky color from the melting glacier.

2nd day:
The accent to the pass and the descent were pleasant. A little after the pass a lot of little waterfalls from melting glacier- very beautiful!
We took a detour to the unnamed Laguna using Lilian's directions.
The CC to the lake is not marked but it wasn't hard to get there. Took us about half an hour to the lake. The laguna Had a tourquize color with brown on the outside to it.

We camped at El Bosque with tons of other tourists but there was room for everybody, and it was quite.
We left our bags and climbed to the unnamed lake. The trail was marked well. It took us about one hour up. The lake was larger then the last two. We heard cracking and falling sound on the way ( maybe falling glacier?)The weather was bad and we were wet and cold, so we hurried back down.

3rd day:
After a rainy night we started a rainy day.
There were glimpses of sun and we had a chance to see the fresh snow covered mountains around.
We decided not to climb to the pass because of the weather and took var f.
We didn't regret it because it started snowing and the wind was crazy.
On the way down we met a worried ranger who was going up to stop people from climbing the pass.
At ( -46.08730, -72.17282) we split from the gpx and walked down on a well maintained CONAF trail.
At (-46.067656,-072.119996) there's a CONAF cabin and we had to pay 28,000 clp each.
We hitchhiked the MR to the main road. There were a lot of tourists on this trail and it went pretty fast.

Took a bus back to coyhaique at 16:30.

'''2025-Jan-13 to 2025-Jan-16 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH02, var D, RR, variant E. RR / Sean & Neele'''

Took the bus from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas in the morning to hike in on option 2, very easy.

Camped at Rio Turbio camp, saw a mouse here so hung our food.

Took variant E to Laguna Peñon route is marked with cairns. very quick and easy so worth the trip.

Pass 43.9km still has snow but is easily manageable.

Camped at El Bosque and took a side trip up to the unnamed Laguna above it. Really nice would definitely recommend it. The route isn't on the track files but is on OSM and is marked with cairns.

Pass 53.5km - no snow. Crazy windy for us.

Camp 56.6km - Camping Los Porteadores - busiest so far seems to get overnight hikers from Villa Cerro Castillo. Saw a mouse here too.

Took option 3 to Laguna Duff which is very beautiful. Met a ranger at the laguna who asked where we were camping.

Followed RR out, didn't see anyway to pay. Got a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo. Camped at Nordic Patagonia for 9k

* '''2025 Jan 2nd to Jan 4th / 2.5 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 2 & 3, RR, Var E / MiaimZelt'''

A very scenic route with good maintained trails and lots of watersources. All Campings are really nice: lots of flat spaces, sheltered from the wind, toilet, benches and access to water.

Day 1: Took the bus at 8 from Coyhaique to Las Horquetas. The trail from Las Horquetas is open again. Everybody has to register at the ranger kiosk. Really easy trail until Camp before the pass. Var E is beautiful and mostly hiking on a big field of rocks, marked with cairns. At pass Peñon there was still snow, but doable without microspikes. The way down is very steep. Slept at Camp El Bosque.

Day 2: Can really recommend to hike up to the nameless Laguna above El Bosque. Extremely scenic lake! Also Laguna Castillo is a real gem. Stretch of big boulders above the lake, up to the pass it gets easier. Was very warm up there and had no wind. Bring water from the lake, there is none until you reach the next Camp. Way down from the Pass is very steep with lots of scree. Hiked to Camp Neozelandes, pitched my tent and did a detour to the scenic Laguna Duff. On the way up i met a lady from the Conaf, asking where i want to sleep. Inside the NP you have to use the campgrounds.

Day 3: All the way down is very easy. Had to pay 28000 pesos for 3 days, price for chileans is only a little bit cheaper. Payment possible with card or cash. At -46.115013, -72.200497 there is an open gate with a sign "Bienvenido a Sendero Laguna Castillo". It's in OSM, but not part of the GPT-Tracks.

* '''2024 Dec 13th to Dec 17th / 5 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 2, RR, Var E, Var F, Var G / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick notes: A really beautiful section with amazing views. The park is open but Las Horquetas remains closed, though many people are hiking it anyway. If not going over the final pass, Var F can be used to exit without paying though it possibly involves trespassing.

CAMPS:

Night 1: -46.00817, -72.10413 Camping Río Turbio (official campground, easy water access, good wind protection, nice views, can have a lot of people there)

Night 2: same as Night 1

Night 3: -46.06419, -72.16915 Camping El Bosque (official campground, easy water access, good wind protection, fewer spots than first camp site, very few are really flat)

Night 4: -46.07194, -72.18416 Camping La Tetera (technically closed campground, water access is a little way away, no really flat spots, poor wind protection, excellent views)

WATER:
Water was generally easy to find.

Day 01 - Dec 13th

We left Coyhaique around 10:30. There are buses that go that route, but we decided to hitch instead. We entered through the Opt 2 Las Horquetas route. It took us three hitches to get to the trailhead. The trailhead has a big sign that says the route is closed. I don't know if they plan to open it this season or not. At the very beginning there is an estero. There is a bridge to cross it, a little old but stable. Shortly after there is a park ranger kiosk, but it was unoccupied. Overall the trail is in good condition, easy to follow, but sometimes muddy. Beautiful views along the way. We were fortunate and had excellent weather. There are several unmarked fords in the first 16 km along Opt 2, all were easy, knee high at most. Water was generally easy to find. At the Rio Turbio campground there were around 25 other people there.

Day 02 - Dec 14th

We took Var E up to Laguna Glacier Peñón. It was a great side trip. The laguna is turquoise and the mountains surrounding it are very impressive. There were still snow fields on the way to the end of the track, so we didn't go all the way, but we got past the lake and to the other side. We saw two small avalanches while we were there. We also found a bird feather, we think from a condor, that was as long as my entire arm. We really enjoyed this side trip and recommend it. Water shoes could be helpful. We didn't have ours and it was possible without, but would have been easier and faster if we had had them. Important note, the whole route is essentially a field of small boulders. It does not require any scrambling, but it is slow going compared to the trail. We did this as an out-and-back and then returned to the Rio Turbio campground for a second night. One couple came around 22:00, but otherwise no one was there.

Day 03 - Dec 15th

We left camp around 10:00. We were ready for the Pass 43.9 and thought with only 10 km to go until Camping El Bosque we would be in camp early, but we were surprised at how challenging the day was. The first few kilometers up to the pass went fairly quickly. There was still snow on the pass, but it was at that stage where it is getting thin and you can't tell where you might fall through, so it was slow going checking our footing. The weather was great, full sun and warm, very little wind. Getting to the pass was slow but not too difficult. We stopped at the mirador for lunch and to watch the dozens of waterfalls cascade down the mountain. The descent was more challenging. It is very steep, and there was lots of scree on the way down. In one section CONAF installed a series of ropes bolted into the rocks to hold on to. Once at the bottom there was a boulder field and then a very nice forest. Amazing views of the mountains and glaciers. Camp 48.0 is a decommissioned camping area under recuperation. Camping El Bosque is at km 49.0. At Camping El Bosque there were two other couples there that night.

Day 04 - Dec 16th

From Camping El Bosque we took a side route up to see a lake. On Google Maps it is called Laguna Raimundo Vargas. It is not an optional on GPT, but it is visible on OSM. The lake is not visible on OSM, but it is on satellite, which is surprising because based on measurements using Gaia, it appears to be almost twice as big as Laguna Duff. The route up is marked by carens, but it is essentially CC across talus, about 1.3 km one way. The lake and the mountains are stunning. There were lots of ice floes on the lake. We sat for about 2 hours listening to the ice crack and watching avalanches fall. We highly recommend this detour if you have the time. Going in the evening might give a nicer light. We had lunch at Camping El Bosque and then hiked as far as Camping La Tetera, which is technically closed, and camped there for the night. Three other groups passed through and two other groups camped near us at La Tetera. It rained a bit in the evening.

Day 05 - Dec 17th

We got up very early with the plan to cross the last pass before the wind picked up. We headed up to the lookout over Laguna Castillo. About 300m of the ascent are a rock scramble which is challenging with a heavy backpack. At points we needed both hands to navigate the rocks. We were feeling exhausted from the previous days and decided not to attempt the final pass. There was no snow remaining on the final pass that we could see. We spent a few hours at the top. Lots and lots of other hikers were coming up or going through. The main trail down is very steep and had lots of loose rock on it. With heavy backpacks it was a challenge and really hard on the knees. It also took much longer than we anticipated. About two km down from the top CONAF had a tent stationed. Three guardaparques are camped there to check tickets on the way up and to radio down when people are leaving. They asked for our names. When we said we came from Las Horquetas they just said okay.
We took Var F and Var G to exit the park. Var F is clearly visible from above as you descend the main trail. The route is actually in excellent condition and is very easy to follow, however in the rain we suspect it would be very muddy. We opted to take Var G which breaks off of Var F and then rejoins it later. It goes through forest and woodland, very pretty and potentially campable in places. There were also a few places where we found water. About 2.8 km into Var F there is a sign facing downhill that says No Accesso CONAF. About 1.3 km before the road there was a gate we had to jump. 300m before the final gate we descended a hill and there were a couple buildings there. One was a baño for what looked like paid camp sites (there were picnic tables around) and one was probably a rental cabaña. We passed through two more gates that were open. At the road, the final gate was secured with a chain, but it was easy to open. On the fence outside the gate and on a second gate that was padlocked shut were two signs saying in English and Spanish “No Trespassing, Private Property”. There was also a small kiosk that looked like it could have been a ticket booth just outside the gate, but no one was in it. It is unclear if the no trespassing signs referred to the property we passed through or to a neighboring property. We didn't see anyone so we didn't have any issues, but it's something to be aware of if you leave along this route. Due to the clear no trespassing signs, the no access sign as you enter the park and the park guards near the top, I would only recommend using Var F to exit the park, not to enter it.

• * '''2024-Dec-05 to 2024-Dec-06 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / MR + Opt.N + Opt.M + Opt.01/ Julien'''

Start on main road very well for entry exit private fields.
Same for option N and M.
I had to take option 01 because I had bad weather... Option 01 is announced in TL but I think it would be better to validate it in TL+BB because I had BB on 6km with no path and many trees still on the path that I had to go around.
Also watch out for the Rio Blanco, where the final crossing is still mandatory, the current was quite strong despite being in December.
For the climb to Cerro Castillo from Villa Cerro Castillo I asked locals people, the passage by option F would no longer be possible because the owner of the field through which we could pass would have closed his ground to visitors. So I went through the main entrance (18000 pesos) with checkpoint entrance and when you go out, you will have my layout on the next edition of the GPT I think.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Var M + RR + Var C + Var E/ Maddi and Tom'''

Day 1: We got the public bus at 8am from Coyhaique to Villa Frei (600CLP) then started walking along the road towards Lago Monreal. Got a short hitch for about 5km, then walking again in light rain. Got a second hitch with a lovely couple who own a property right on Lago Monreal - they even had a key for the locked gate with cameras and drove us right up to the trailhead. As we started hiking up into the mountains the snow started to come down fairly heavily. Sheltered under a rock where some people must camp for lunch and was able to get water from a few sources along here. Stopped snowing so we took Var C, definitely recommend, amazing views over the lakes and would be an awesome spot to camp. Started on the sketchy traverse, problem for us was it was all under about half a metre of fresh snow, on top of a layer of very slippery ice. Luckily we wear hiking boots with deep tread so had fairly good grip even without microspikes. Hiking poles were lifesavers. Issues started with the descriptions of getting around the various gullies - they described using grass to climb up but for us everything was just white!!. Tom had a terrifying slip and slide 5m towards the cliff edge before arresting with his elbow and chin - his hiking poles had chosen this exact section to break so he was doing it without even poles. After this we backed down off the climb over the gully but in the end just had to go for it. I ended up carving steps out of the snow with my hands and packing the snow down so Tom could follow me up, and giving him one of my poles. If the snow hadn’t have been so fresh I think we would have had to turn around. I wish I could say it got better but as we started to head down into the valley we began to hit waist deep snow drifts. We were planning to camp here like others had but the snow was just too deep and we were worried about the cold so we decided to try to get over the pass and down into the forest for cover. Absolute battle wading through the snow, took turns breaking trail. Couldn’t see the river and unfortunately fell all the way through the snow and got my feet wet. Pass itself fairly easy to get over and then lots of shoe skiing down the other side. Dark fell as we got to the forest edge. Got confused by the GPX as it takes you right to the edge of a massive cliff - not great in the dark. Used other peoples notes and managed to find the trail on the other side of the river then just kept powering on until we found a clear spot on the old disused road at about (-45.98519,-72.10097). Collapsed into bed after a quick dinner at about 10pm - definitely the hardest day we’ve done on the whole GPT. Really wouldn’t recommend doing this section after heavy snow unless you have microspikes and probably an ice axe. Excellent navigation skills also a must due to lack of landmarks in the snow.

Day 2: Woke up to frozen solid pants and shoes - it had dropped to -8 degrees overnight and was still -4 in the morning. After much smashing of our shoes and socks on rocks so we could put them on, we packed up the tent and headed off towards the tourist track. Passed Segundo camp, no one in sight. Finally thawing out when the sun came out. Took Var E up to the glacier - super long trip on rocky scree, worth going up to the lake but don’t go beyond like we did. Kept going along regular route after detour. Fair bit of snow on the pass, had to be very careful coming down as it was icy and windswept. Saw first glimpses of Cerro Castillo from behind. Camped at the old campsite just before El Bosque - still hadn’t seen anyone on the entire trail.

Day 3: Did the side trip up to the Laguna behind the El Bosque campsite. Headed up to the main Laguna Castillo and was nearly blown off our feet as we came over the ridge. Hid behind a boulder for lunch while we assessed whether to bail down the mountain or attempt the high pass in the winds. As we ate they seemed to die off slightly so we legged it up the mountain. Awesome views over Villa Cerro Castillo and we could see back to the Torres del Avellano. As we hit the top of the pass the wind started to pick up again. We had to hide behind boulders between gusts and then sprint to the next one to avoid being blown off the mountain. Tricky coming down the pass in the high winds as the scree was pretty loose and very exposed to the wind. Eventually made it down and to Porteadores. Decided to head up to Neozelandés so we could go up to Laguna Duff in the morning. A few people were camped here - first people we had seen on the trail!

Day 4: Plans to visit Laguna Duff were foiled as we woke up to heavy snow fall. Forecast was for even more snow so cut our losses and headed down. Visibility was terrible but passed several tour groups heading up the trail. Tried to avoid the park rangers but when we thought we were home free a guy in a Ute pulled us up as we were walking along the road towards Villa Cerro Castillo and asked where we were coming from. Took us back to the office and made us pay. Awesome section, snow and wind made it challenging but was great to have it all to ourselves until the last day.

* '''2024-Feb-16 to 2024-Feb-21 / 5.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Lauren & Seb'''

Day 1: After taking an Uber from Coyhaique to Villa Frei, we combined a couple of hitchhikes to wp X, Settler {31P-01} [0.0+0.3/310] and hiked to wp Lake {32} [33.6/338] to the put-in. We crossed Lago Desierto with good tail wind and camped at wp Lake {32} [38.3/337] which can get gusty on a rainy night.

Day 2: We started paddling Lago Azul the next morning and very much enjoyed the pristine blue waters. The waves built up increasingly towards the shore so keep an eye out for a calmer landing spot. We then walked through a manicured garden, passing by an impressive private hacienda. The mountain bike tracks in the valley behind the hacienda are easy to walk with great views of Lago Azul and Lago La Paloma. We made camp at wp Camp {32} [52.4/713].

Day 3: The next day, we were mentally gearing up for the BB section indicated in the files. *Note: We later found out there is no BB, in our opinion, as the actual 4wd track continues all the way until the END of RP-BB-A {32} [55.9+1.2]. After that, there is also no BB- only a 1.5 km walk along the river bank and through swamp land (CC would be a more accurate labelling for this part). We were very grateful for Tom’s advice to keep our fording footwear on after the fording just before the landslide. The swamp was much easier to navigate with our crocs. The rest of the way until the official Cerro Castillo trail is easy 4wd track, sometimes a bit overgrown. We decided to follow towards the southwest at wp GPT32-D, into the short BB and CC. The BB is not really BB, as shrubs are only hip high and easy to navigate. After that we joined the main trail and camped at Segundo Camping. We saw mice running around so it’s definitely advisable to hang your food on a tree if you don’t want these critters chewing through your tent.

Days 4-6: After 3 days of not seeing anyone, it was a jarring contrast to meet numerous hikers on this popular stretch. Followed the scenic and easy RR until Villa Cerro Castillo, with an overnight stay at Camping Neozelandés to visit Laguna Duff. We exited the NP over a fence by following the RR and caught a hitchhike to town by noon.

* '''2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-14 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Var M + RR + Var C + Opt03 / Matthias'''
Day 1: (El Blanco -) Lago Monreal - valley after the traverse (km 31, 1200m).
Stayed in the camping Las Confluencias (very nice people and place) in El Blanco (on ruta 7). The owner drove me to the Lago Monreal in the morning. He dropped me off right in front of the gate with camera on Var M and said: “This is the (only) way. Climb over the fence”. I did not encounter any problems, and the MR does not pass in sight of any housing.
The traverse (km28-km30): You cross some steep slopes of scree and later of grass and shrubs, with some stretches where you´d better not fall. I´d recommend using microspikes if you carry for ease and safety. You do not really have to climb though. Going SOBO the route was not clear to me at the last rock (50m) before the track descends to the valley floor. Don´t try to climb over it (though there are traces of attempts), you can pass below, there is only 2m of bush-bashing through some trees, then you are on a path again.
The camp in the valley was cold and very windy.

Day 2: RR to Camp El Bosque
Once you reach the official trail in NP, the path is relatively easy and always clear. From the camp El Bosque there is a path to a Laguna (20-30min) marked by cairns, it starts passing the toilet of the camp. There are nice views up there.
Camping La Tetera (km 50.5) is officially closed for recuperation, so I did not camp there.

Day 3+4: RR + Opt03
At the very eastern end of Laguna Duff, there is a sheltered camp for 1 tent. With good weather a nice option.
On the way down I explored the trail which is on OSM (leaves RR ca. at km 59). You pass through some gates and past the settler and the trail reaches RR just where the guardaparques are.
Bought some gas from the friendly guardaparques. Hiked all the way to Cerro Castillo around noon.
Stayed there in Hostal Cerro Castillo, which was the (good) recommendation of the park rangers.

* '''2024-Mar-01 to 2024-Mar-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 02 + D + RR + OH E + 03 / Joscha'''

Day 1: OH32-02 + OH32-D [1.0-2.6] + RR [38.8-39.6]

I hitched from Puerto Chacabuco to Las Horquetas and startet there around noon. After 700 m on OH32-02 you pass by a ranger hut. You have to sign in and you will get a short explanation about the trail. You don't have to pay here, but they tell you that you will pay when leaving the park. There is plenty of water on OH32-02. I camped at Camping Rio Turbio (Segundo) at km 39.6 of RR.

Day 2: RR [39.6-41.3] + OH32-E [0.0-1.6] to Laguna Glaciar Penon and back + RR [41.3-56.6] + OH32-03 [0.0-3.6]

Laguna Glaciar Penon is worth the short detour on OH32-E. I crossed a bunch of small streams around the pass at km 43.9. There is some ice on top of the pass but its not very steep and therefore relatively easy to walk over it. There is no water between Laguna Cerro Castillo (km 50.9) and Camping Porteadores (at beginning of OH32-03). I camped at Camping Neozelandes.

Day 3: OH32-03 to Laguna Duff and back to RR + RR [56.6-66.9]

Laguna Duff is nice. I hiked there early in the morning and therefore had the whole place for myself. About 400 m before the RR joins the minor road (km 60.6) the RR branches off the official hiking trail and avoids the park entrance. You have to hop a fence to get on the minor road but therefore you don't pay the 15000 Pesos for hiking in the park.

The nacional park has 4 official campgrounds (at km 39.6 and 48.9 of RR and the two marked camps on OH32-03). You are only allowed to camp at those sites.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / {32-M} - RR - {32-C} -RR / Lilian & Rainbow'''

Bus from Coyhaique to Villa Frei :

Monday to Friday(8.15am, 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 7.30pm) , Saturday(8am, 2pm), i forget the fee, it is less than 1000 CLP. It takes about 35-40 minutes and it turns back to Coyhaique with no waiting. The sign on the bus doesn't write Villa Frei, it said Valle Simpson, (and final stop is Villa Frei.)

Bus terminal in Coyhaique : (-45.58226, -72.07800)

Bus stop in Villa Frei : (-45.75139, -72.11226)

Resupply in Coyhaique:

I sent a resupply box(shoes and socks) to Patagon Backpacker(hostel) in Coyhaique from Santiago some months before, they are super friendly and willing to hold my box until i arrive. You can contact them by email, they are good at speaking English, also know lot around Coyhaique.

If you want to buy some warm clothes, some shops in Coyhaique. North Face and Patagonia is there, but expensive. Some clothes in Patagonia are on sale but not for hiking or not much use, lot clothes but full price, ya. North Face's staff is much friendly, and lot items on sale too, but rainproof is full price. They have tents for sale too.

Good clothes is cheaper with discount, 230g gas canisters and sleeping pad at Suray Montana, friendly and not crowded. I bught a fleece jacket at here.

Doite have the cheapest price sporty clothes, just beside North Face. I bught a good base layer here.

Lot of supermarkets in Coyhaique. I resupply at Unimarc.

They are all close to the plaza, all the shops i listed can search by Google Map.

Because i just have 3 days good weather, so I don't want to do any road walking, i talk the bus to Villa Frei, then hitch to (-45.86204, -72.04816) start hiking.

Locked gate and camera at {32-m} km2.33, I didn't want to take long time go with big around so i climbed it directly, didn't see any people on the whole way, so doesn't matter.

RR km23.3 : cross a stream, log crossing at downstream 20m, you can go through the tiny forest to there.

Km23.63 : flat spot(-45.90969, -72.05767) with some protection after a stream crossing can fit 2 tents before go into the no covers grassland.

Highly recommend go for {32-C}, both ways just 10min, amazing views and a camping spot can fit 1 tent with excellent view at (-45.90744, -72.07668), but no wind protection.

Km 26.63 : flat spot (-45.92066, -72.07543) can fit 2 tents with good wind protection from west by bushes.

Km27.75 : old camping sandy spot(-45.92915, -72.07549) can fit 4 tents with some wind protection from west, just before the dangerous CC. I think the previous one is better.

Km27.9 - km29.95 : dangerous CC traversing on side hill. A slide may cause a fall with heavy injure or death. It is doable but not recommended to everyone. Doing this part only in good weather.

Km28.3 - km28.35 : for me, it is the most dangerous part in this CC, some landslide(-45.93359, -72.07668) and very loose, i can't hold a good pose and slipped down some meters, luckily i can use my hiking poles to stop the slide immediately.

Km29.3 : tricky spot(-45.93822, -72.08632), huge thank you for Véronica, her comments made this much easier. Just like she said, "You reach the end of the bad scree and end up in a deep gully with a vertical wall face on the other side."

"Get to the lowest grassy patch to the left of the vertical rock wall. The easiest way to reach that grassy patch was to go upstream a bit, then traverse on the hard slippery sand northward, instead of trying to climb vertically straight up to it. Once you reach the grass, you can use the traction and stability of vegetation to clamber up and out of the gully."

Km29.55 : 1st rock wall, go around it with a clear trail at downhill side(-45.93818, -72.08940), GPX track is correct at here.

Km29.7 : 2nd rock wall, NO CLIMBING, NO SCRAMBLING here, there is a trail JUST WALKING at (-45.93864, -72.09126), overgrown but just 20m easy BB, the trail is between rock wall and treeline, Sobo not easy to notice, but when you are going around the rock wall, then you'll find it. Nobo is easy to reach the trail at the other side. GPX track leads you to climb, it is not a good idea, a slide in climbing at here will mostly cause death.

After 2nd rock wall, finally CC down to the valley and easy walking start.

Lot of camping possibilities at the valley, but zero wind protection. Better camping before pass[32.5/1385], because after the pass is super rocky, pass is a large flat area, but too soft to camp.

I camped at (-45.94901, -72.09962), some flat spots, beside the waterfall from Cerro Aislado. Nice views but cold. It is the first night with negative degree so far. Some water froze to ice at early morning around here.

After pass[32.5/1385], you walking down at another valley, but with some cairns to follow.

Km33.5 : trail starts, with some big cairns along it. It leads you all the way to treeline at km34.2. Sometimes it is not clear to follow and lost, but you will always find it if you pay tons of attention, cairns leads you the way.

The trailhead at km34.2 is a little tricky. You need to climb up a little on a rocky slope after you cross the stream to (-45.97307, -72.10268), then go into the forest to south a little, you'll find a steep loose rocky slope going down again, go for it and you can hold some trees there. Then you join the old trail shown on GPX going south. Don't think about go to the trailhead(-45.97343, -72.10281) directly, it is on a waterfall, you can't arrive there.

The old trail is in good condition for a while, then become overgrown and some blowdowns. For emergency, you can camp at (-45.97898, -72.10345), it is the first flat spot for Sobo in treeline with cover (the last one for Nobo). It can fit 2 single person tent.

Lot of tiny stream flowing with clear water.

When you met the rock river(-45.98185, -72.10091) at km35.33, you can CC down the river and join MR at (-45.98357, -72.10284), it is a super easy CC, not steep, no blowdowns, no wet feet, rocks are stable and not slippery.

When you arrive MR, easy walking again. A gate locked by wire at km37.1, climbing over it is the fastest way.

Km38.1 : start BB to riverside, but i think it is a CC, the grass just up to ankle only.

I find a clear trail(-46.00113, -72.09460) without any blowdowns going south, and lead you to riverside at (-46.00216, -72.09530), then you can walk beside the river and join national park trail.

National park trail is in a nice condition, nothing to mention. Some snow before and after pass[43.9/1470], but still an easy walking on snow.

Km46.1 : camping spot at (-46.05228, -72.14549), it is cleared out all the stone by someone here, can fit 1 tent with excellent 360° views, but no wind protection.

I camped beside the lake(-46.05780, -72.15969) for the second night, excellent spots with glacier views(you are just below it!) and views of Cerro Castillo! Peaceful and not crowded, I'm the only human there with some ducks, and they love to talking in the midnight. You can reach the lake starts at (-46.06176, -72.15672), easy walking beside a stream, all the way stay on east side and dry feet, BB less than 20 meters for total and mostly just easy CC.

Km48.85 : Campsite El Bosque. Side trail to a lake under glacier at north. It is a long walk, but i highly recommend you at least take the trail go out the forest, amazing views there, both ways just 300m.

Km49.95 : viewpoint of waterfall from Cerro Castillo. And i find that you can climb up to the top of waterfall! See the details at next waypoint.

Km50.2 : you can climbing up this ridge to the UPPER LAKE of Cerro Castillo. From (-46.06989, -72.18148) to (-46.06905, -72.18500), then to (-46.06627, -72.18497). No trail, just CC on some rocks, stable and not steep until close to the top, the top part is steep and loose, at there you can go to right side a little bit, climbing up on grassy slope for final ascend. Amazing views there, and no camping, because the ground is too soft, but cow boy camping on huge rocks is wonderful at this place.

I recorded this CC, will upload it later.

Camp[50.5/1243] : Campsite La Tetera, not a good camping spot, some spots much better when you climbing up and before Laguna Castillo.

After you enjoy the moment at Laguna Castillo, remember follow RR, check GPX track, dont follow the trail going beside the lake, it is a dead end trail, and if you dont want to all the way back, you can CC climbing up to join RR.

Pass[53.5/1679] : excellent views here! If you are super thirsty, clear water is flowing good at (-46.07749, -72.20888), easy to collect, 10sec/L.

Then all the way down to Campsite Los Porteadores, a long long way going down.

Because of weather changing, so i didn't go up to Laguna Duff.

Walking on a nice trail to main road, then all the way road walking to Villa Cerro Castillo.

Lot of restaurants, shops and accomodation in Villa Cerro Castillo. The shop(-46.12072, -72.16115) beside the main road is the biggest one in town. Lot of biker riding, hikers and backpackers hitching on the road. Tall gas canisters and 230g gas canisters are sold in Copec gas station at (-46.12208, -72.16279) in high stock. We stayed at Nordic Patagonia(-46.12142, -72.15889), 15k CLP for a bed, 45k CLP for a double room, 8k CLP for camping with views of Cerro Castillo, including hot shower and kitchen basecamp.

Maybe because of late season, never saw any flies at this section.

* '''2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-13 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Las Horquetas and Lagunitas / Andrew'''

Day 1 (slept at Rio Turbio)

I started in Villa Cerro Castillo and hitched a ride to Las Horquetas. I left a bag at the Nordic Patagonia campground in town, it's free if you stay a night after, or CLP 1.000/day if not.

Signed in at the CONAF station where the park ranger explained the official camps that are currently open, and advised not to drink unfiltered/untreated water between Rio Turbio camp to just before El Bosque camp. But others I talked to later in the hike didn't get the same message and seemed fine so not sure what was up there.

Easy hike to Rio Turbio camp with some horseflies.

Day 2 (slept at El Bosque)

This day was my punishment for deciding to leave behind my fleece at the last moment. Cold and rainy as I went over Penon pass, but at least I got to test out my new rain jacket and rain pants. At least it wasn't very windy. Great views of waterfalls after the pass, and the rest of the day was sunny.

Camped at El Bosque. Difficult but short day. Worth taking the side trail to Laguna Temprana after setting up camp.

Day 3 (slept at Neozelandes)

Lots of scrambling over rocks. Great panoramic views as we went over Morro Negro. As developed campsites go I think Porteadores was actually a bit nicer than Neozelandes, but Neozelandes is much crowded and puts you closer to Laguna Duff.

Day 4 (back to Villa Cerro Castillo)

In the morning I hiked to Laguna Duff, best scenary on the Las Horquatas section of the hike IMO, do not miss this. Afterwards I hiked back to Neozelandes, packed my stuff, and hiked back to the Villa. All downhill. Paid the CLP 16.000 fee at the Estero Parada CONAF station, then hitched a ride back (around 3pm). Had some good pizza and beers with some folks I met on the hike at Pizzeria y Hamburgueseria D-Lizia in VCC.

* '''10-Feb-2024 / Hiking / SOBO / 4 days / RR + Option B (attempted) / Ella & Cristopher'''
Day 1, we walked through the sections of private property without running into anyone, but met other local hikers a bit afterwards who said they have previously had problems with one of the landowners on the route we took, and that he has now installed cameras. Got to the section with the traverse and attempted to take Option B - definitely do not recommend this option. It took us about 2 hours to walk less than a mile on the super steep and loose dirt/skree. Multiple dangerous moments. Part of this option also seems to pass through dense forest which looked difficult to bushwhack, but we didn't make it that far before turning back as it was getting late with no end in sight. We camped right at the beginning of Option B, where there is a flatter patch and stream that you can walk down to. It was a good view, but we realized later that a better and equally beautiful place to camp would have been where the land plateaus a bit and there are multiple small streams, on the RR about a km after you pass the start of Option B. Day 2, we woke up to super windy and rainy conditions, and waited for it to clear until about 3 pm before starting the traverse. The RR turned out to be a relatively safer route than Option B, though we were still glad we waited for the bad weather to pass before attempting. Followed advice from Veronica at the difficult parts, which worked well for us. Definitely budget extra time for this stretch. Camped right after the traverse when it drops down to the river, which you follow to cross the first pass. The area doesn't get a lot of sun so it was really cold at night, but still a nice place to camp with flat spots and a river. Day 3, trail before uniting with the CONAF area was difficult to follow at points and slow because you are walking a lot on loose rocks. We were very confused when reaching a waterfall with no visible trail, but a few cairns about. Following advice from Will, we crossed the river just before the waterfall to go up the left side of the valley. Climb through the trees and then cross a few meters of steep loose dirt/skree, and you should be able to see where the trail then continues in the forest. Some bushwhacking after this but relatively easy to follow GPS track until linking with the CONAF Las Horquetas trail. Camped in El Bosque Camping which had a toilet but no water tap (though there is a river close by). Day 4, relatively easy and super beautiful walking all day. We took the RR all the way to the road, which does in fact avoid the CONAF checkpoint so we never had to pay. Ran into other hikers who said CONAF is only charging when you leave the park. Got very lucky with a hitch to Villa Cerro Castillo, but I would not count on it and the road gets a lot of sun and I didn't see a water source. Bus from Villa Cerro Castillo leaves at 6 pm and goes to Coyhaique for 9.000.

Feb 2023 Frank
There is no need for any rock climbing on this route. After the gully where you climb out on grass (described by Veronica) there are two rock bands running perpendicular to the route. You can go below both of them & bypass them at treeline.

* '''2024-Feb-8 to 2024-Feb-11 / 3.25 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR from El Blanco and Lago Monreal + Variant M + Option 3 / Tomáš & Natalie'''

We started around 1500 at Coyhaique and easily hitched to El Blanco. We hitched with three cars (last went to Lago Paloma) and walked about four km in between them along Lago Monreal to Variant M. The sign against hikers scared us and it was late (1930), so we camped nearby (100 m along the fence westward). We reread other reports and decided to go for it in the morning. We first tried to go along a fence lining a small cliff about 100 metres west of the road, but it is pointless and we found ourselves on the road after a few hundred metres. We did not meet anyone. It is easy to miss RR and start on option 1, keep an eye on the GPS. We met black cows at the same place as Stiina, but they just looked omniously at us.

As for the dangerous part, Tomáš ended up doing it three times as he dropped our tent poles from his backpack just before the start of the CC section. Unlike Nat (see below), he thinks the section is quite ok and he also found it quite scenic, especially the first part over the plateau. The annoying clambering is in fact only about two km long and can be done in about an hour if you know the way. It never felt dangerous to him, but he understands others see it differently. It is certainly more demanding than the average section of GPT. The description of Véronica is the best. The last obstacle (the boulder) is not entirely vertical (it feels like scrambling, not climbing), but you do need to use your hands and it is indeed exposed, down climbing NOBO is more awkward. On the other hand, it is only about seven metres distance (not elevation). We had sunny skies, in worse weather it would be a lot more annoying. The horseflies came back from the dead and died by the dozen under our merciless hands (Nat killed three accidentally just as she tied her hair back).

At the end of CC after the pass, the trailhead is invisible (45.9731564S, 72.1026797W). It starts in the trees immediately from the river, about 10 m above the start of the waterfall in between two landslide/avalanche bands. Will comments that the GPX trail is exact, but since we are used to the GPX being slightly off, we could not see it, I guess we should have just trusted the GPX. There is a cairn in the creek marking the entrance but it is unclear how long it will stay there. Once you reach the overgrown MR, after a hundred metres of easy BB, one can cut the first zigzag straight down through easily passable mature forest. Once down on the road, you can camp on it, it is not used by cars ever. Once you reach the CC at 60.9, do not ford but stay on that side of the river!

In the popular part of the hike, people concentrate at campings, but otherwise it does not feel too crowded (less than two dozen people met on the trails themselves per day). Until nine and from about five, you will meet almost nobody on the trails. The park is very attractive. There is good internet (Entel 4g) just before the pass at 53.5. From the other side, there is a sign saying the pass closes down in strong winds. Probably better to go there in the morning (weaker wind) or late (after six) in the afternoon (rangers have probably gone home) unless the weather is good. The sign where they turn people is probably at about 1250 altitude at roughly the treeline.

To avoid paying, Nat followed the RR and was succesfull (OSM is wrong, the official trail is to the east of the GPT in the last few hundred metres). Tomáš followed the easternmost OSM trail that leaves the RR at roughly 480 altitude. The trail is rather imaginary, but it is easy walking across meadows or rarely through open forest and across several fences. His efforts were probably pointless. Tomáš also wanted to cut the walk to Villa Cerro Castillo and forded Estero El Bosque, but it was equally pointless and involved several fences.

We found screwable gas cartridges in Villa Castillo at the supermarket "Villarica", the last supermarket on the corner of - Bernardo Higgins and Bernardo a Alessandro, I think. They said they have them sometimes. There was a blackout for five hours during our stay but locals said that is not so common.

Notes from Nat:

- When in Coyhaique be sure to enjoy the bread and pizza shop called; La Tranquera Pan y Pizza (just North of the main plaza). It has a great selection of sourdough breads/Rye/whole-wheat loafs, cookies, real coffee and tasty pizza slices. ALSO don't miss the dry good store; Envasadora Aysen (45.57016° S, 72.06883° W), the good veg shop here (45.57730° S, 72.07038° W) and then the Unimarc is actually pretty good.

- My views are prejudiced against the beginning of this route bcs I was sick and not in a good mood but my thoughts at the time were; "If you want to "enjoy" section 32 then take the Las Horquetas option". I really didn't like all the sidehilling and felt you wouldn't miss out on much if you started at Horquetas. Also don't do what I did and pack twice as much as you need bcs Coyhaique "might" be the last place with good food (however it was 3-5x better than villa Castillo).

- The first tricky part was annoying bcs it was hard to get an edge (not that there is any edge left in my shoes). It was easier to walk up it and gradually cross, all in all it didn't feel dangerous. The second tricky part did feel dangerous to me bcs I went too far climbers left of the grass staircase and ended up having to traverse the short, steep and featureless slope to get back on track, a fall seemed easy and with bad consequences. The rock scramble at the boulder did not worry me but I would not have climbed it if it was wet bcs there is a lot of algae-like material on it and some of the handholds were sloppy.

- I would be very curious if one could make a new route that went up to this lake here; -45.94848, -72.07320, and then down either here; -45.95505, -72.08753 or along the ridge to here; -45.96914, -72.08724. It would be more vertical and longer but with possibly less sidehilling...

- The glacier on Variant E (6km return, half of it moraine walking) is nice but not really worth it, the lake on the other hand is 100% worth the short walk (3km return, flat river rock waking).

- The lake just North of Camping Bosque is also worth it if you can avoid the crowds. Both this lake and Variant E lake are technically CC but "well traveled" and cairned.

- The trail to Laguna Duff is popular but "splendid", it took less than two hours to the lake from Porteadores. Most of the trail is in the forest and then the last 1.5km (250m vert) is on a pretty obvious rock path. The camping at Neozelandés is far less crowded than other official campsites, I recommend it. I got into an argument with a CONAF officer at the lake bcs she told me it was too late to be there and I had to leave (4pm). If you want to avoid this person, then go right of the RR when it gets close to the lake headwall, she seemed to be "staged" at where the water leaves the lake. I originally wanted to make a traverse to the other lake but bcs of CONAF I went down to the camp to meet Tomáš and then we both went back up after she left (6ish). Once back up we made a traverse to the other lake by following a grassy slope that starts west of where the water exits the lake, you should be able to see the grassy slope on your left when you are walking to Duff. Follow it down and work yourself across, going down to where there is some grass should be quicker than traversing the rubble, it is CC, obviously. On the way down from the second lake we followed the main waterway and then cut back into the forest to reach the main trail (open forest, no BB). Rather than follow the west bank of the waterway like the GPS says we found it far easier to be in the east bank, less rubble.

- We both had to walk back to Villa Castillo, no cars going in our direction but many going in opposite direction (~9am)

* '''2024-Jan-28 to 2024-Jan-31 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Villa Cerro Castillo - Villa Frei / RR + Option 3 + Variant C + Variant M/ Alex & Christophe'''

It was another fantastic section but we don't have much to add to what has already been written. But we would still like to point out a few points:

1) At the Segundo campsite (also called Rio Turbio), mice gnawed our tent and our dry bag containing the food. It would be best to hang your food from the trees if you are sleeping at this campsite.

2) The large rock at -45.938145, -72.086171 can be avoided by doing 10 m of bush bashing just below the rock. This passage is much more visible going NOBO but it is also possible to take it going SOBO.

3) The little detour to Variant C is definitely worth it. The view of Lago Paloma and Lago Azul is truly incredible.

4) We took option M despite the right of way conflict. We passed a pick-up truck at the last gate going NOBO (the one with a padlock and a private property sign). They greeted us and gave us no problem.

* '''2024-Jan-27 to 2024-Jan-29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 2 + option 3 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : well maintained, good campsites sheltered from the wind
- Water : easy to find plenty of rivers and lagunas
- Camping spot : there are some designated campsites
- Weather : Sunny
- River crossing : easy
- Resupply : in cohayque and in Villa cerro castillo, all you need
- Entrance fee : 16 000 pesos per person, normally the park closes after 1pm so you can't start after that but we were a bit late and they let us through
- Overall : beautiful stretch of section 32, for us it was really an amazing entrance in the Patagonian landscape as we imagined it with the Torres

* '''From 2023-01-22 to 2023-01-24 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OP3 + OP3A + VARIANT M // Quentin Clavel'''

Villa cerro castillo - entrance Estero Parada - Laguna Duff - Sendero las Horquetas - North part of NP (CC) - Lago Paloma - Villa Frei.

One of my favourite section so far ! I had amazing weather and I enjoyed so much this stretch, even with few people on the sendero las Horquetas in the NP (not crowded, but obviously more than the usual sections of the GPT).

Entrance fees for 3 days was 16,000 CLP for me. I had no control and have seen no guardaparque during my hike.

I walked all the way up to see Laguna Duff (OPT3) definitely worth it in my opinion. Wonderful view, with still some pieces of ices floating on the Laguna, the back of Cerro Castillo and the reflects on the water were amazing. Easy to go there, as there is a trail.

The second one (OPT3A) is more tricky, no trail, and a lot of rolling stones. Beautiful too and of course, no people at all (I slept there, without tent, just on a big rock, that was incredible).

Then go up to the pass, it was a crazy hot day, for the first time since I'm in Patagonia, I regretted that it wouldn't be a little bit windy aha.

Laguna cerro castillo Is amazing. Second pass were very nice too. Bi. I passed it early on the morning, had some snow part, doable, but as it was morning, it was icy on some parts, so I putted my crampons and that was perfect. (But doable without).

Then easy trail until the end of the public part of NP (just after Segundo camping). After that the cross country part begun. Follow an old trail of the NP, some bush bashing during the forest part, and have to check often the GPS. Then you have to deal with all the rocks until the first pass.

Go down on a nice valley, and go up to the second pass. Tricky part, as described previously, is the big rock. It's maybe easier to do it NOBO because you descent it, and don't face it, which can be scary. But going on the grass part is the best way. Then follow the tree level, deal with rolling stones, and everything is gonna be alright. The récompense will be the amazing view on Lago Paloma (don't miss the Mirador).

I took the variant M to avoid the right of way conflict. No trouble at all on this way. You have to pass threw some gates. The last one, near a kind of central hydroelectric is the biggest, with camera and sign do not enter. Few people seen after this gate, and they were all very gentle and nice !

Anyway, I really loved this stretch ! As it's summertime at this time, I met a lot of chilenos in the NP, so happy to see even very young chilenos explore their outstanding country !

You have to be prepared to face a looooot of rolling stones on this section, sometimes it's like dancing on rocks. Can I say that the rolling stones make this stretch rock'n'roll ? Probably not.

Better to wait for good conditions. I can't imagine this section on a rainy and windy day !

* '''2024-Jan- 11 to 2024-Jan-13/ 3 days/hiking/SOBO/ Start in Las Horquetas and later RR/ Paulina'''

I started in las Horquetas, it was open even if on Conaf website this section is still closed, apparently they don't really update). When I was there ( 10 AM) nobody at the gate, so no charges. Later in the park nobody never asked me to show the entrance ticket. The same at the exit gate, they just asked me to check out ( even if I did not check in).
At the beginning of Las Horquetas trail, some very easy river crossing. Almost no people, only a few hikers on the campsite.
On Pass 32 [43.9/1470] still some soft snow, but I could cross it safetly.

Be careful on the ridge around pass 32 [ 53.5/1679] on very windy days.
I did not see any water around camping Los Porteadores, except this last section, water was available everywhere.

Beautiful and very scenic section!

* '''2023-12-29 to 2024-01-01 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Variant D & M / Roman'''

Took a Uber from Coyhaique to Villa Frei for 17.000$. Got another lift by someone who life's there to this point: -45.8737, -72.04342. Joined via Variant M to the RR. Camped at Camp {32} [23.6/1010]. Good place you have to Ford 2 times before the Camp and 1 times directly after it. Here the -45.93357, -72.07606 Clambering in steep terrain starts and is very challenging also in combination with snow. Very steep literally climbing up there here: -45.938145, -72.086171 especially with a backpack. I needed to go very slow and cautious with 3 point technique. After that you can follow the GPS and the Kerns to this point -45.973087, -72.102771. From there a old abandoned road goes all the way to the point where the Trail( Variant D) merges with the Sendero de Chile Las Horquetas at: X {32-D} [1.0/920]. On the trial are some parts which are not perfectly visible but with GPS no problem. There are some fallen trees and quite a few small trees on the trail. I wouldn't consider it Bush Bashing (BB) because you can just raise your arms in front of your face and walk trough it. So IMHO no BB on the route. As soon as you are at X {32-D} [1.0/920] it's a "touristy trail" compared with the other GPT parts. Therefor the condition is excellent. Camped at Segundo Camping -46.008184, -72.104121. Next day camped at Camping Los Porteadores -46.089085, -72.235431. Snow was neither on Pass {32} [43.9/1470] or Pass {32} [53.5/1679] a problem. Next day hiked to Villa Cerro Castillo. Not a single car on the street towards it so needed to hike. The RR avoids the Entrance Cerro Castillo Park (Estero Parada) there is one gate before accessing the street where you can just hop over.

Overall: really nice section and quite relaxing to have such a easy trail (the beginning is challenging due to the rock scramble). It's the most touristy part (2 groups a 7 people) but absolutely woth it. Really enjoyed it.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Dec-12 / 6 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Variant D + Variant F / Tom Pieper'''
An Uber from Cohayique to Villa Simpson is about 9.000 Peso. From there I easily found rides to Lago Elizalde. A older man told me that there was also a camino from Lago Elizalde to Lago Azul passing cerro sombrero a couple of years ago. I really liked the walking through the valley to lago desierto. It passes a beautiful farmland landscape sprinkled with little lush patches of forest and creeks. Camping is easy there. But if you want to speed up there are also cars from time to time and hitchhiking is possible. At S 45° 52.495 W 072° 16.913 is a little shelter surrounded by some old tractors and a big mate cup installation. A farmer passing by told me I am welcome to stay there. To reach lago desierto you have to climb a locked gate (well described by Kara Davis). I crossed lago desierto and camped at the isthmus between it and lago azul. There is a nice camp spot at waypoint Lake {32} [38.3/337] surrounded by old gooseberry bushes and an abandoned van. The central lodging building is collapsed so its seems to be an abandoned place now except the cattle. Next day I crossed lago azul. The wind increased dramatically forming up to 1 m waves. There are some emergency exits on the left even after the shore gets steeper after the settlers on the lefthand side. At the end of lago azul you reach a huge private hacienda on the isthmus, with a big park like forest and buildings within. I tried to sneak between the buildings but to reach the path to the mountains you finally have to pass a big meadow. There was a greenkeeper around and it was no problem for him to let me pass. The family was not around. The track to the mountains is steep and part of a big network of mountainbike trails. This network spans nearly the entire valley! I met six young chilenos who told me that they are working the summer to maintain the trails only for that family – I have never seen such a giant mountainbike network! Incredible how much effort and money must spend here only to satisfy a family’s hobby. The Chilenos were very friendly and even turned back to offer me a ride to the end of the valley as rain increased but I kept walking. This track is in really good conditions up to the bush bashing section. And here comes the problem: 1.) the bush bashing is wrong annotated. In reality it starts for 1.2 km at the end of the annotated section 2.) the track is mostly gone were it reaches the river bed. Landslides have washed away a big part. Don’t cross the landslide! It seems super instable! When you have forded the riverbed at the landslide don’t put on your shoes, yet. The following part has turned into swamp land. I suggest to make the entire 1.2 km in your fording footwear. After that the track to the las horquetas trail is mostly overgrown or blocked by trees but still visible. It was pretty hard for me as temperatures dropped to 4 °C and at this point it had not stopped raining for 48 hr. In bad weather that’s definitely no fun. The ranger hut was my salvation as it was abandoned but open and had a stove and even some firewood. The next day the weather was perfect and I continued towards cerro Castillo. There had been recent work around Camping Rio Turbio and the track is still in good condition. Paso Penón has heaps of snow and I found myself sinking to the hips from time to time. But in good weather it is ok. The views from the pass and the following valley even outcompeted the view from laguna castillo. After the paso penón the rest is fine. I used Variant F to descend. As mentioned before it now follows a different way in the end due to right of way conflict and you reach the street at approximately half way between villa cerro Castillo and the national park entrance.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''05-Apr-2023 / Hiking / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

We really enjoyed this one. It's definitely worth waiting for good weather, not only for safe traverse of the steep part in the northern part of the park and following obstacles that are quite demanding but also for the views that were just incredible.

Starting from Villa Frei in the late afternoon, we made it on that day to the turn before Lago La Paloma, where we camped right behind a fence, before a little river, that you need to cross to follow the RR. There are 2 settlements, but still far enough, so no problem. You have to cross one fence and a gate on the way up. To avoid right-of-way conflict, we followed Cristopher & Anna's advice (thanks guys!) and turned right after the first gate behind the beginning of the optional trail. From there you just need to follow MR, cross a few gates and you will end up on a fenced field with bee hives on one side. Crossing them will take you directly to RR, so no bush-bashing is necessary. From there, the trail is pretty straightforward. We liked the view from Option B viewpoint and in good conditions it must be a perfect spot for camping, definitely doable in one day. The steep traverse didn't feel that dangerous for us, but we had really good conditions. The next obstacle, already described by others, is at the end of the traverse. We followed there a small ridge that will take you to the beginning of the grass parts. It's a little steep, but doable. From there we followed the grass parts, which create almost 'stairs' allowing you to climb up. It's again steep, but you can use your hands to pull yourself up, holding the grass patches. After that is the last challenging part, a rock that you need to climb over. We got there already after sunset and without an option to explore the best and safest way over, we decided to follow the old overgrown trail, that descends down without the need to climb over the rock. It seemed to be hard in the beginning, but after we got through the first few trees (without any leaves, just branches), we found a little strip without them, that takes you all the way down to the river, where we camped. It took us around 15 min to get down, so it might be a good alternative. From there you just need to walk through a little part of the forest and then continue by the river, so you are actually avoiding also the descent down, which some described as challenging as well.

After the first marked pass and descent in rocky terrain, the CC part connects to an old trail, that later becomes a MR. The connection was easy to find by following the GPS. We had no problems passing around the rangers house, again by following the track files, at first through the forest and later around the river. From there the trail connects to the official way which makes navigation easy. We spent the night in the official campsite around 2 km before Laguna Carro Castillo, which is the only one open. There were 5-6 other tents, no ranger. The next day the weather got way way worse, which made us skip the last pass and go down from the laguna via one of the official routes. We met a ranger on the way up, pointing us to the official trail around yellow cairns, to sign off from the park. With no intention to pay on our way from the park, we actually followed some old trail (according to the old signs we met) that took us to the main road, right in front of the bridge. We had to cross one fence, but no other problem. It's a faster and safe way from the park.

* '''5 to 7 of February 2023 / Will / SOBO / 3 days'''

Amazing section! I was worried about the tricky part, but sticking to the gpx track it didn't feel dangerous to me. Though I did have to leave the track to find easier ways around the cliffs.

There weren't any buses south out of Coyhaique on Sunday (except maybe early morning?). I ended up taking an Uber to villa frei, for a bearable 14000 pesos. The road walk was beautiful except for the wind trying to blow me into the cars. I caught a ride to Lago Monreal, from where I walked back up to variant L and then to the 23.6 campsite.

I didn't have any right of way trouble, I just had to pass through a few unlocked gates with no people or buildings in sight. There were even a few groups of day hikers who passed by my camp on the way to the Lago Paloma mirador (variant B - must see!).

I also took variant D up to the glacier lake, worth it if it fits your schedule. I didn't have time to keep going up to the glacier itself, it looked like steeper rocky cross country.

Even in the touristy parts the trail was surprisingly slow and rocky. I ran into a few rangers, who look like normal hikers except with red and white baseball hats. They were ok with me not having a ticket once I explained my weird route.

* '''15.02.23 -18.02.23 / Anna & Christopher / SOBO'''
Coyhaique - Villa Cerro Castillo

We hitchhiked from Coyhaique to Lago Paloma and started walking around 13:30 pm following the main path.

The trail at the beginning is pretty good. At the junction with the option at km 17,5 you can walk further uphill along the fence for a couple of meters to enter the fence through a gate. This option is not in the gpx files. We decided to follow that to avoid the settlers after all.Then you can follow the dirtroad through two more gates until you reach a fence that you have to jump to the right to get to a meadow with beehives. There is another gate there and then you reach the main route again. In total we only had to jump two fences.

Then we followed the main route. Soon after we went through the gate of the National park Cerro Castillo and we (unfortunately) met two guardians of the park. After some back and forth they made us turn around, telling us that this path is closed and we have to enter the park via the main entrance and pay the 30.000 clp. So we had to take the option to las Horquetas.

After a few good km on a dirtroad, the path of option 1 gets bad. It seems like it hasn't been used for a long time. It was often hard to find and involved some bushbashing. It took us quite some time to get through there. Once you are at the river it gets much better. We forded the river next to the entrance to avoid the detour until Horquetas. The option was not very nice. Mostly just walking in the forest with BB so we would definetly recommend to try the main route.

The entrance closes at 2 pm but the guards there were much nicer than the first two, and it was also no problem to get in at 3 pm. We had to register us and pay the 30.000 clp p.p. though. The rest of the trek we were not asked to show the tickets. The park guardians tell you that there is no water crossing both passes and you have to carry it from the official camps, which is simply not true. There is only no water after Laguna Castillo.

At the exit (following the RR) we had to register us again. From there we planned to hitchhike to Villa Cerro Castillo, but there were no cars passing by. In the afternoon/evening it's probably easier to get a ride, because lots of cars parked at the exit. We would recommend Option E to avoid the dull roadwalk to Villa Cerro Castillo.

We stayed at Camping El Rincon, which was only 4.000 clp p.p., with no electricity, but the owner washed our clothes after we asked and we received it dry the next morning :)

* '''18 to 21 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT32 RR SOBO / 3.5 days'''

Route: Villa Freí - Lago La Paloma - north part of Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo - Las Horquetas trail (south part of Parque Nacional Cerro Castillo) - Villa Cerro Castillo
First off I want to say that I think this section deserves a 5 on the Attractiveness Scale. It is simply mind-blowingly beautiful and definitely on par with other sections further north that have a 5 on this scale. I also think the Difficulty Rating should be upped to a 5 as well, due to the technical, and arguably dangerous at times, section in the northern part of the park on the Regular Route. Wish I had someone with me during this stretch, but oh well, such is life.

I was lucky and caught a hitch most of the way to Lago La Paloma on the first day. It was hot and I don't think the road walk has any water sources until you get to the end. I then followed the new RR which bypasses the problematic right-of-way settler in the Lago Monreal area. However, this new detour is not fun. It involves climbing over (or crawling through/under) multiple barbed wire fences. I lost count after the 5th or 6th one. Also, the path and cross-country area are full of thorny plants, they got everywhere on my pack and clothing. I think it would just be better to take Option 32-L and chat with the settler instead to try and get through. Once you reach RH-MR-V {32} [18.9+4.7], it's all good, easy walking until the camp at 23.6 km.

I reccomend taking Option 32-A after the campsite instead of the CC straight through the cow pasture. It is wet and muddy, whereas 32-A remains dry and easy to follow in the forest at the edge of the meadow. I also strongly recommend taking the short detour to the mirador at the end of Option 32-B. The views there of the cliffs and mountains surrounding Lago La Paloma are incredible. You could even camp there if you brought sufficient water and the weather is calm.

Now for the difficult part in the 8-km cross-country section. This section was physically, mentally, and emotionally demanding. The first pass is at S 45° 55.740', W 072° 04.501'. It is easy walking up past the treeline into the alpine up to this point. The first challenge is a steep and unstable scree traverse, which begins at S 45° 56.019', W 072° 04.567'. Follow the GPS tracks here. At first I tried to go lower, right along the treeline, which was a big mistake that got me stuck in a terrible gully of slippery hard-packed sand. Very treacherous and scary trying to traverse it on all fours. After that ordeal, I scrambled back up to the altitude of the GPS tracks. This first scree traverse lasts about a km, the rocks are loose and it is very steep. I was tense and went very slowly. Got harassed by tábanos the whole way, but at least the weather was good.

Then at S 45° 56.288', W 072° 05.184', you reach the end of the bad scree and end up in a deep gully with a vertical wall face on the other side. Figuring out how to get up that cliff was hard for me. I left my pack at the bottom and tried climbing up various different ways with no success, only tiring myself out and getting myself in precarious situations where I could barely climb back down. I finally figured out the best way was to try and get to the lowest grassy patch to the left of the vertical rock wall. The easiest way to reach that grassy patch was to go upstream a bit, then traverse on the hard slippery sand northward, instead of trying to climb vertically straight up to it. Once you reach the grass, you can use the traction and stability of vegetation to clamber up and out of the gully.

The next big obstacle is at S 45° 56.320', W 072° 05.446'. Like others have written, this is the vertical rock wall that spans up and down the mountain and that you have to climb over. I scouted ways up without my pack at first, trying to find the easiest way. At least with this rock wall, the handholds and footholds are solid — no slippery gravel/sand/scree. But it does require actual rock climbing moves. If you fall you would likely tumble down the mountain, so please be very careful. A light backpack makes it relatively safer and easier.

On the other side of this wall, you can finally see where the trees end, and the lovely river you are supposed to climb down to reach. But there is still more scree to traverse here, and it is slow and unstable again. I tried taking a shortcut down a shallow gully filled with grass. I figured it would be safer than the rocks, but it was very steep and got unexpectedly muddy at one point, and I ended up slipping and sliding down the mountainside about 10 meters before being able to stop myself. Didn't get seriously hurt, just bruised up, but it really shook me and just added to the stress and fear of this whole section. So I guess my advice here is to again follow the GPS tracks across the scree and go down gradually to the river instead of trying to go straight down.

Once you reach the riverbed, it is easy walking to the top of the pass, with occasional cairns (and some good swimming holes). Down the south side of the pass, there are still a couple scree sections, but not nearly as bad as before. Lots of boulders, so slow going, but at least they felt more solid.

As Martin Lizondo has written, finding the start of RH-MR-V {32} [34.1+1.7] is tricky. It is not a minor road, it is an old footpath. The cross-country section ends at a creek as it turns into a high and steep waterfall. You have to cross the creek and look up to find a faint, overgrown trail that goes up into the forest. Once you find it though, it is simple enough to follow. There is a stretch though of several hundred meters where it is more of a bushwhack than anything else, nature has taken over.

I followed the regular route that cuts through the forest to Río Turbío, I assume this is to avoid the ranger station nearby. The "bushbashing" section is easy through a mature forest, and then you just follow the bouldery riverbank.

Once you get to the popular Las Horquetas trail, everything is easy until the end of the section. Some snow at the top of the first pass (Paso Peñón), but very manageable. The views of the saw-toothed mountains, lakes, and glaciers are spectacular. Despite reports of the park being "overrun," I only met a handful of other hikers in this trail, and most of them after Laguna Castillo. No rangers at all.

I think the Regular Route in its current configuration avoids the blue payment tent at the end of the park trail, but I didn't know that when I passed through, and ended up just following the riverbank down to the minor road to be safe (and avoid paying the ridiculous 30,000 clp access fee). The road walk to Cerro Castillo was Easy and uneventful.

* '''23/02/2023 - 25/02/2023 / RR SOBO / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''

We started at Lago La Paloma, taking the bus from Coyhaique to Villa Frei (leaves at 8:15,15:30,17:30&19:30 from monday to friday and at 8:00 and 14:00 on saturday (no bus on sunday)). Then we hitchiked to the lake without problem and we camped there. Ready to start in the morning the next day.

Day 1 - Campamento Rio Turbio - 26.5km - +1800m/-1200m A big day but we hadnt the choice : heavy rain was announced for the next day... Cross country is demanding, better follow the tracks all the way long. A great camp site if you want to split this day is at the end of Option B. No water, windy but incredible view. The waypoint camp before is nice too.

Day 2 - Campamento El Bosque - 10km - +800m/-800m The 2 camps sites on the GPT at47.8 and at 50.3 are now forbidden. The new campsite is approx at km 49, in the middle. There is guardaparques, but no need to show the permit for us.

Day 3 - Cerro Castillo - 11km - +800m/-1500m The pass after Cerro Castillo was closed due to the wind. If you want to go to the other side, you have to get down at the park entrance and to go up again at the other entrance. We just went to the town. The regular route going down from there, from the Cerro Castillo, is not the one on the GPT. Actually, it goes more on the west side. At the end, there is a guardaparque, we checked out (even though we didn’t checked in) but no need to pay. Fortunately. Luck was with us.

* '''23/02/2023 - 25/02/2023 / RR NOBO / Jakub+Veronika:'''

1) Lago La Paloma, right of way conflict on RH (32, km 17.5): Owner of the land (and nearby houses) is called Cesar, according to him, the right way is by the mud road (OH 32-L) and not on the trail, which passes some 20m next to his house. The reason why there was a conflict might have been caused by Cesar's relative who didn't like tourists walking on their land.
2) Trail has been changed 3 years ago because of right of way conflict between CONAF and private owners on the OH (32-E). The new official trail (with official park entrance) leads on OH (32-E) for the first 2km, then turns right and goes down towards Rio Ibáñez to RR (32, km 85), well marked by metal yellow triangles.

We've walked all section 32 from Villa Frei to Villa Cerro Castillo. The part from Lago Paloma to Rio Turbio is very difficult and might be even dangerous (especially in bad weather). The CC travers on the stones (in our case with strong wind and snow) was the hardest part. The MR leading down to the valley is partially overgrown. The second part is well marked with good camping possibilities. After heavy rains on Sunday 25th, the park has been closed for more than a week. There are 2 alerts on the road (see above).

* '''Feb 17 RR 3 days SOBO Frank'''

Walked from Villa Frei. After about 12KM there is a food truck next to the road. Owners live there so should open for you. The owner of the private land wasn't there so had no access issues. You can camp in a big meadow @ 1250 metres or in good weather at a pass @ about 1325 metres (not marked on track file) just before the difficult CC section begins. Followed Veronica's advice to get up the gully on grass which worked well, thanks Veronica. There is no need for any rock climbing on this route. After the gully there are two rock bands running perpendicular to the route. You can go below both of them & bypass them at treeline. The second bypass is not very obvious but stay at the treeline & you will get through easily. After the pass, descending scree you come to a waterfall. Go left into the forest immediately before the waterfall - you may see a small cairn marking the spot. Just footprints at first but pick up a small trail as you go in. Leaving the park the RR to the left goes through private land. The optional route straight down is now the main trail, it goes down to a checkpoint just before the road. Checkpoint is at a stile over a fence so can't be avoided. It is run as a private 'concession' from CONAF. The workers were friendly & didn't charge me anything. However next year the concession will be run by a different company so depends who is there.

* ''' Note on Options 4, 7 and 8:'''
GPT32 Option 4: is the gravel road to Lago Elizalde and Lago el Desierto. A subsidized bus travels this route 2 or 3 times per week.
GPT32 Option 7 and 8: Are routes published on Wikiloc and/or www.suda.Io. This means someone took these routes in the last years but not much more information are available.
(Source Jan Dudeck: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1498106867361861/ )

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022 Feb: 05-07, SoBo, RR, Kris&Stiina'''

We continued into this section straight from the previous one - 31H and the start of it, about first 16km, is like the whole previous section - dirt road. We hiked about 5 of those 16km and hitched the rest which I think was possible quite easy because it was weekend and a lot of cars with families were going to the Lago La Paloma.

The interesting part started once we were at the gate after crossing the outflow of Lago Monreal. The big sign was posted there stating that this is not some Sendero de Chile and that passing through here is strictly forbidden. We saw a guy at the gate when we were approaching, but as it was lunch time for us we stayed at the stream. Afterwards the guy was gone and there was no phone signal to call the nr. that Martin Lizondo has provided. After considering options of different routes we decided to keep it cool and climbed over the gate with fingers crossed. There were houses a few hundred meters up the road, but nobody seemed to be at home at that point, perhaps working in the field somewhere in the back, so we walked through the forbidden land without anyone intercepting, luck was with us. A few more gates later we climbed up into the forest and finally the Cerro Castillo National park with a big old welcoming sign. We stayed at the first marked campsite at 22,7km, there is a stream.

Next morning as we were having our breakfast about 30 cows showed up and were completely dazzled by our presence. They stared at us for about 15min until they finally relaxed a bit, but not fully. As we were packing our camp some sudden movement must have scared them and they all went running for their lives as if a Kraken himself was after them, silly cows, we thought. Once we were all packed and ready to go we crossed the stream into the next meadow, and saw all the cows about 200m to our left. I am not exactly sure how cows work, but as soon as they saw us they organized a gang and all of them started running right at us. We of course were standing our ground so the cows would stop just 5m from us and look all tough. I would try to scare them away by counter attack in the form of a shouting, hiking pole waving lunatic. It worked to some extent, as we could slowly walk out of it, but the cows kept persistently be really close and walk/run at us. I guess they were trying to protect their pasture, maybe someone can enlighten me about cow-dynamics.

After the great battle of 2022, we disappeared in the forest and enjoyed the nice forest path while it lasted. Once out of the three line the path disappeared so we more or less followed the GPS marking. Neither of our maps showed the mentioned old path descending down into the valley, it was actually matching with the GPS, more or less. Up to the first pass, which is not marked, but is at about 26,8km the cross country was easy and then as mentioned before it got pretty difficult. If it would just be steep scree slope it would be alright, but this one had hard packed sand under the scree or sometimes no scree on it so it was very slippery (in dry conditions). Lots of prayers went to the Gods of Friction which helped us with traversing the treacherous slopes, with plenty of chances to become a statistic. I don’t think that that traverse is possible in wet conditions, not without crampons. And as for every good cake there is always a cherry on top, which was a little rock climbing session, which I personally didn’t mind, but I am not sure other hikers would appreciate. After that we still had to descend a steep scree down to the river. If there is a potential trail or option to go down the valley after the pass and then follow the river bank up, I think it is definitely a better, faster and safer option, especially if weather is not favorable. And looking from above down the valley it seemed like a feasible option to follow the river as the river itself was easily crossable and we didn’t spot any cliffs there, maybe next time.

After reaching the river at the valley bottom the way up to the second pass was easy and straight forward, even though still “sin sendero”. The way down from the pass is steep and bouldery but not dangerous and after a short bit some first signs of an old trail can be noticed, some cairs appear. Then once the trail gets down to the tree line there are a few bushy places, but nothing too bad and the closer to the actual trail you get the better it becomes. We also somewhat followed the GPS track but stayed more in the forest rather than beach to avoid the ranger hut.

Once we made it to the Las Horquetas trail all our worries were behind us and we could enjoy the nice trail and magnificent views. I don’t think I have ever seen tree line ending almost at the edge of the glacier in Europe it was happening a century ago, pretty cool stuff. We camped at the “segundo camping” with many other hikers, none doing the GPT though. And an interesting thing we observed was that people would just drink straight from the silty glacier stream without filtering or treating their water at all. Observation was made of different groups of people at different campsites. Is that a Chilean thing? Very impressive gut, if they can do it, unless ignorance is a bliss or they knew something that we didn’t.

Nevertheless, two more mountain passes and we were heading down to Villa Cerro Castillo, with crowds of day-hikers that had come up to the Mirador Cerro Castillo. From there we actually didn’t follow the GPS track but headed down straight to the town. The ticket office with the park official is actually around this area: (46º 6.7520' S, 72º 12.0032' W). And the trail leading there is the official trail. The one that seemed on the map like the official, was actually not in use, not sure why. The satellite view on Gaia and info on the maps is somehow outdated. We tried to sneak past the office to avoid all explaining we had to do, but it’s kind of strategically placed so it wasn’t possible and we ended up just talking to the girl that was making sure everyone is checking out of the park. We had to pay 18.000 pesos per person which is the ticket for foreigners that want to go up to the mirador. We didn’t spill the beans about camping in the park and our small backpacks kept the suspicion low, so in the end it all worked out pretty good. From there it is still almost 5km to the town on a very dusty road, but with all the day hikers leaving a hitch was not a problem.

The town is really nice with plenty of shops and accommodations options. The only thing we didn’t manage to find was the threaded gas canister, but we found a few half-empty ones left in the Nordic Patagonia mess tent.

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* '''2021-Dec-18 to 2021-Dec-22 / Option 6 (Valle Balboa), Regular Route (Packrafting Lago Desierto and Lago Azul) and Option 9 (Packrafting Lago Paloma) / Northbound and Westbound / Meylin and Jan'''

General Remark:
This route provides an attractive alternative to the overrun Cerro Castillo trail. The popular Cerro Castillo trail is also highly regulated (obligatory camp sites, closed in suboptimal weather) and costly (27’000 CLP entrence fee) therefore this alternative should be considered by hikers and packrafters.
At the upper terminus of the Valle Balboa is a 5 km long and 400 m wide pasture at an altitude of 1100 m. To utilize this pasture for cattle summer grazing, settlers build a 18 km long trail through the forrest along the Rio Balboa.
This very scenic Valle Balboa trail was hiked and published on Wikiexplora by Tobias Hellwig and Daniel Mahn. But the southbound descent down to Rio Ibañez was made by climbing down with a rope in very steep terrain because the location of the descending trail was not yet documented.
Therefore we investigate this route in the opposite direction to search the southern trailhead to incorporate a feasible hiking traverse from Rio Balboa to Rio Ibanez in the GPT network.

Summary of Northbound Investigation:
Tobias Hellwig suggested where the southern trailhead may be located. A detailed analysis of satellite images and elevation profiles supported this and a local resident confirmed this assumption. After an hour of searching we found the southern trailhead. This trail terminates at a 400 m by 60 m pasture at abandoned camp (“Camp A”) from where no trail appears to continue.
To continue through the last section of forrest we bush-bashed through very steep terrain and continued trail-less through a rather open forrest until reaching open terrain (“Entry Forrest Valle Ibanez”). From this point we traversed the open terrain on a slightly higher route than recorded by Tobias Hellwig and Daniel Mahn and meet the previously recorded route at the descent into the Valle Balboa (“Exit Forrest Valle Balboa”).
From this point we followed closely the previously recorded route in the Valle Balboa from where we packrafted westbound over Lago Desierto, Lago Azul and Lago Paloma.

Recommendation for Southbound Hikers and Packrafters:
Hikers that wish to bypass the Cerro Castillo trail may either road-walk 25.5 km from Villa Frei via Lago Elizalde to Lago Desierto (GPT32 Option 4) or take the bus from Coyhaique to Lago Caro and leave the bus just after the bridge over Rio Paloma.
Alternatively hikers may walk along the lakes Lago Paloma, Lago Azul and Lago Desierto (GPT32 Option 5) but bypass the buildings at the trail start to avoid a right-of-way dispute (see yellow arrow on the image that first follows the beach of Lago Paloma and than sneakers in between some trees to the trail).
Packrafters best paddle the three lakes to get to Rio Balboa. Note that the predominant wind direction is westbound.
After reaching the western end of Lago Desierto hikers and packrafters closely follow the route of GPT32 Option 6. Note that the multiple river crossings of Rio Balboa may become impassable after heavy rain and are generally easier in the morning (due to snow and glacier melting water that reaches it maximum in the evening).
After reaching open terrain at Kilometer 24 (“Exit Forrest Valle Balboa”) hikers and packrafters traverse 5 km open terrain to the waypoint “Entry Forrest Valle Ibanez” while enjoying the wide open view into Valle Ibanez. Starting from Kilometer 24 do not follow any more track “EXP-OP-TL-V {32-06} [0.0+30.6]”.
After entering the rather open forrest best follow the 8 waypoints of “Proposed Improvement for Investigation”. This bush-bashing route probably avoids the very steep descent that we struggled to get up with our heavy packrafting gear. When reaching the trail (either “Record 1” or “Record 2”) follow the generally well-visible and well-maintained trail to “Exit Forrest Valle Ibanez”.
Note that that “Record 1” and “Record 2” includes all our searching, so don’t take these tracks as an instruction but use your common sense to follow only the relevant parts.
When reaching Rio Ibanez packrafters can float on the river towards Cerro Castillo while hikers must walk along the northern side of Rio Ibanez to Cerro Castillo.
As an add-on hikers and packrafters may take GPT32 Option 3 to visit a less frequented trail of Parque Cerro Castillo.

(Note: taken from here https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1256244101548140/ - now the options are part of the GPT Track files, the Facebook post includes pictures.)

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==
* '''Section 32, Option 7: Valle Balboa. Southbound. 11 days (including waiting out a snow storm). Party (3): Mum, Sis and I.'''

After walking Section 35 we emerged in Cochrane to a world changed by the virus. We retreated to the now unfriendly Chili Chico and caught the ferry across to Ibáñez in the morning. For my mum and sister, getting back to Santiago to catch a flight home had been the priority, but on the way they shifted more to the stance I was taking: what was the point? Get stuck in Australia, or here? Patagonia didn't seem all that bad, and apart from facemasks and hand sanitiser, there were no shortages like back home. By the time we reached Coyhaique we'd all decided to stay a week or so to hatch a plan. We met up with Aldo and camped in his backyard for almost a week. I helped build his house a bit, but time was mostly filled with playing chess, dice, cards and guitar. The atmosphere seemed to encourage a lethargic state, blurring the days together and bending time. Finally however, we packed and walked into the town centre to make a start on the interesting option #007 of Section 32 through Valle Balboa, (traversing roughly from Lago Desierto to Río Ibáñez). With the virus and public transport on hold, it seemed unlikely the bus to Villa Freí (that we took last time for the RR of Section 32) would be running. We asked a taxi driver for a quote to drive us out. We grabbed some more supplies, and then caught a taxi with a much friendlier driver to Lago Elizalde ($15k). The driver showed us a great public camping spot on the shore of the lake. There were many established camp sites back from [close to] the beach. It was such a nice spot that we decided to lay back and spend the afternoon and night there.

In the morning, we walked the road to Río Paloma, scoring a lift for 5ks or so. We camped by the river not far before the end of the road.

In the morning we walked the last bit of the public road to where it ends at the very rickety bridge over Río Mogote. There is a nice little camping spot here (-45.91100, -72.31823). Climbing over the locked gate, we walked the private road to the ford. We tossed up visiting Lago Desierto and the people living next to it, but with the virus decided against it. This meant we didn't actually have to cross the river, instead locating the old road to the south. (The track files follow the road, but it is no longer used by vehicles and it is actually easier to head back down the main road a couple of hundred metres to where a cattle trail exists (-45.91601, -72.30806)).

Following this distinct road for some time, it seemed to be used for horse riding tours as there were coloured signs like "Spanglish" and "Toobooku" on the side. You will soon reach the gate included in the track files. Here there is also access to a bridge across Estero Balboa. It looks like you can then access trails most of the way up to Cerró Negro. This might be interesting if someone wants to explore.

A couple hundred metres after the gate the old road ends and an obvious trail continues to a miskept farmhouse. Continue along the well defined trail that gets a bit scrubby/overgrown before entering the forest. The trail is then very well maintained although quite muddy in spots (I could see it being quite bad after rain). You will need to ford a tributary not marked in the track files (-45.95592, -72.35114). Shortly afterwards is a junction (-45.95654, -72.35216). The route up the side valley could be explored if someone wants - we went only a short way to a corral. The track will dip back down to the river where there is an established camp (-45.97039, -72.35461). Continuing up the valley, there are many more established camps - the best are generally in close proximity to the fords.

The first time you cross the estero is about here: (-45.98105, -72.36205). There is only one ford, not two as the track files indicate. At the next couple of fords, the actual track deviates slightly from the track files. If you follow the current track files, you will avoid crossing the river at all, but will end up bush bashing briefly. We crossed the next two fords, but by staying on the west side of the river they should also be easily avoidable.

The trail exits the forest (-46.02116, -72.42538)(the camp marked in the track files here is a swamp - go further up the valley!) from where it is cross country walking, not actually a trail as indicated. We camped next to the puesto which incorporates some pieces of a crashed plane (we found another piece whist exploring, but not the actual crash site). The route up to the Laguna Campana is also open and straight forward.

We waited out a rainy day only to wake to a snow storm the next!... and the next!. We ended up waiting 4 nights experimenting with some different bread recipes whilst we waited out the inclement weather.

Finally a sunny day! Continue up the valley, CC walking past an old corral. At the Nacimiento del Estero Balboa you again briefly enter the trees. Like the previous marked camp, again this whole area was very swampy and I didn't see a suitable place to camp. The camp included in the track files is in the middle of a swamp! We picked up fragments of a track heading up through the trees, but I think it is very vague or overgrown. That said, we had nearly a foot of snow in places so we could have easily missed things! There is a very obvious section of track here : (-46.05648, -72.47298). You'll quickly exit the trees (-46.05923, -72.47005) and start a long CC section in the alpine. We found some sections of trail, but for us it was mostly cross country walking. Plenty of water options the whole way.

When you enter the forest after completing the alpine section (-46.08687, -72.43537), you will be bush bashing for a long time! There was no discernible track even when we criss-crossed over the track files searching for it (no snow here anymore). Approaching the deep gorge, I decided to lead us a different, less steep way. This worked well and we camped at a very nice spot by the stream at the bottom (-46.09414, -72.42582).

The next day we were debating simply following the river down (I wish we had!). Instead, we headed straight up the other side of the gorge. We located part of an old track here (-46.09685, -72.42463) but quickly lost it as we passed through the saddle (I think maybe it continues north?). Rejoining the suggested investigation route (EXP-OP-TL-I@32-07-#003), there is a good stream (-46.10202, -72.42403) and some camping on its banks.

After some horrible bush bashing, we finally made it to a ravine gashing steeply down the mountain (-46.10598, -72.41534). There were many drops and it was impossible to go directly down. We later found out that the only other party to do this part had a rope! I can't really recommend going down here [and my sister can't recommend it at all! - "This is shit!"] Again, I'd recommend taking the main valley. The climbs we did were much more difficult than those on the northern part of Section 32 RR that people complain about. Also, if doing this option, it would be much easier travelling north! You could also consult the settlers on a better route. We finally reached the bottom where it opens up after about ~6hrs!

Continuing, if you do follow EXP-OP-TL-V@32-07A-#003, the track files indicate there is a trail, but it is not quite so. There are CC sections and a labyrinth of cattle trails. You will need to use them to your advantage where they exist, and leave them when they go the wrong way. We went this way for a little while, but then tried following a primary cattle track that seemed to be heading directly down to the river... but we got stopped by a swamp (-46.11623, -72.41080). Continuing along EXP-OP-TL-V@32-07A-#003, you will get CC walking from the woods (after a cliff) about here: (-46.11546, -72.42372) If we were there again we would follow EXP-OP-CC-A@32-07-#004 down past the settler to the river. It then looked easy to walk along the river north to the cable car.

The cable car: Don't use this by yourself! Don't use it if you are only two! Use it with three people minimum! I can't stress this enough. There is a lot of fiction and the locals we talked to here don't even consider it safe. They used the boat which has its own steel cable allowing you to tack across with relative ease. You will get wet feet if using the boat.

Taking the cable car, we only just made it across with one in the car and two hauling on the rope, and at one point it looked like my sister might get stranded on the far side (she had a nightmare that night!).

Carretera Austral: We waited the entire day by the Carretera Austral. Finally catching a colectivo late in the afternoon. With the virus, it was hard/imposible to hitchhike. We paid an inflated price ($3kpp) for transport to Cerró Castillo.

* '''2020-March-6 / Ty & America / 4.5 Days SOBO RR. Start @ El Blanco'''

We started in El Blanco, opting to hike by Lago Montreal, which was pretty nice. No traffic though, so if you’re wanting a hitch the regular start in Villa freí may be a better option. Settlers in Lago Montreal are super friendly. There’s a bit of water there as you pass by the lake. We camped there. I recommend going further to the marked camp though because the next day is a big challenge. RH-CC-A@32-25.2+7.9 Is the Cruz of the section. After this all good. I do not recommend doing this unless you’re very comfortable on your feet and have a lightweight pack.

-stick to the treeline/marked path on this. The traversing is tough, but completely doable. 2-3 km in is the gully with the very difficult climb. Keep the the grassy patch, getting to the base of it was the most dangerous part for us. Very slippery rock. I had America drop her pack. High risk, but I was MUCH more comfortable.

-about a k after is the second dangerous area. This is a straight rock wall that spans all the way up& down the mountain. The only way through is to climb around. I checked below it and didn’t find a way through the trees. I took both Sanita & America’s packs through this section; as again, it’s very high risk..with an actual climbing move involved. Again, it’s important you’re very comfortable with your pack to get through these parts.

After these dangerous sections we were wiped out and camped in the valley before the pass. Lots of places to camp with good water. Be aware of slight rockfall risk. There’s an amazing place to camp with ideal conditions at the top of the pass.

Going on, all smooth, both marked camps on the way up the second pass are actually closed...there’s an open camp right between the two.

Amazing places to camp up by Laguna Castillo.

We snuck around the riverbed once we saw the blue tent at the bottom (where you might have to pay) and got by with no problems.

* '''Jan 2020 GPT32 South 7days / Felix'''

Coyhaique to Villa Freí: There is a bus from the bus terminal in Coyhaique to Villa Freí. From there it was a hot dusty road.

Accessing the park : You have to pass through 4 private properties to enter the first sector of the park. We met some people. Had short friendly chats, but no problems with access. Just before you enter the park (where there are two trail options) there is easy access to the river via a cow trail. However water in general was no issue and I didn't carry water for the entire 7 days through the park.

The camp site used to be an official campsite before the sector was closed due to access problems. The dunny is in great shape.

Through the first sector : The trail is in great shape until after the mirador. You then cut upwards into the alpine which is also easy walking. After passing through a saddle, you contour around above the treeline. This is the most difficult part of the section. Quite a bit of step scree traversing. Not for everyone. Once you drop into the valley waking is again easier. There are some occasional cairns that become more and more frequent as you drop into the other valley. As you contour left an intermittent trail is evident. When you enter the lenga forest (-45.97321, -72.10278) there is a great trail down that turns into a road here : (-45.97886, -72.10358) (Jan: maybe you want to update the track files to reflect this?) Then is road walking to join the popular walk.

Popular sector of Cerró Castillo : There are some side trips not included in the track files. They're on the map you get. Note that the old Bosque site (-46.06197, -72.16016) and La Tetera (-46.07200, -72.18390) are now closed. You can not camp there. For most people this means camping at the new el Bosque : (-46.06418, -72.16964)(Jan : maybe you want to update the track files?) Get to Laguna Cerró Castillo before 12 to beat the walkers heading up for the day. But this shouldn't be an issue as you need to cross the pass early : an important thing we would have liked to know is that the pass (-46.08030, -72.21103) can be closed in the afternoon due to strong winds. There is literally a ranger there that can turn people around. Not much water over the pass either. And the poza cerca mirador doesn't look welcoming. Carry water here. In the next valley there were more rangers and we saw some people get checked for permits. It's a shame this park is now being comercialalised :(

Getting back to Coyhaique : Not much traffic. The last bus heads back at 6pm

I'll try upload some map photos and a breakdown of the entrance fees when I get the photos off my camera.

Cheers, Felix.

* '''2020-Jan-18 and 19 / Regular Hiking Southbound / Martin Lizondo'''

The starting minor road gets into the private propiety of Pedro Sangüesa (+56 9 9099 9083) at 45º 52' 15,55" S, 72º 2' 46,28" O. He didn’t like people to pass through and denied that there was a trail, but it turned out to be a Conaf’s well signed area. He said in the future he will ask for money, but finally left me pass for no charge. I met other day hikers going to « El Mirador ». Snow was easy at the passes. The trail was in good conditions until the cross country. There are two spots which I consider dangerous, so I don’t recomend doing this section alone: 1) the gps tracks passes through a very vertical rocky (nearly climbing). I was scared and I can’t recommend doing it, except you asume this risk. I could see later in a map that the original route went all way down in the valley through lenga forest, but if there was a trail it’s invisible now. 2) When the cross country leaves the tree line and becomes a small trail into the lenga forest at 45º 58' 23,54" S, 72º 6' 10,02" O (“minor road” starts later, despite the gps track info); it’s very stepy and unmaintained. I made a mistake and started to follow the stream all way down, but you have to look up and search the beginning of the hidden path. It’s very vertical and easy to fell down, because of recent land slides. Be extremely carefull. The rest of Cerro Castillo from Las Horquetas is well maintained, beautifull and enjoyable. Cons: Lots of people. When leaving at the Nezoelandes entrance, you’ll have to pass near to the payment cabin. I didn’ t have to pay, but it was because I spent only a short time in the park. The cost for foreigners is normaly CLP 29,000.

* '''Jan 2020 / RH Northbound / Matthieu'''

No technical difficulties in the park, just following the trail and enjoying the views.

To follow the GPT northbound, leave the parc trail to go north. It is an "old sendero" in the forest, but well maintained and easy to follow during the beginning (it is marked on maps of the parc). In this direction, no problem to leave the forest in a safe spot, but southbound, looking behind, seemed hard to find the entrance of the forest and of the safe trail ! No technical difficulties until the first pass, rocky terrain like the rest of the park.

The dangerous part is indeed between the 2 passes. You dont go in the valley in front of you but follow the altitude line until the pass that you see at the right side of the valley. Very steepy rolling stones path. I was a little bit afraid. I tried to be smarter than the tracks, trying more uphill... this was a dangerous mistake that took me long to repair and go back to the tracks. There are indeed two river crossing (no dangerous waterstream) but they are circled by cliffs, so not easily crossable.
The track follow mostly the tree line (I.e the separations between the little trees and the stones) So my recommendations :
- follow the gps tracks : they follow the tree line who is safer with a solid ground and grass. Sometimes you have to cross the stones, no choice, so go slowly, choose your paces wisely and it's doable. Try to aim for the grounds of grass in the middle, which are solid, or the stones with foam on them, which mostly didn't move for a while. For the rivercrossing, it aims a good spot with no need to climb down or up.
- choose a good weather day : for me it was sunny and no wind, so perfect day, and it was already mentally hard (not speaking of the horseflies getting you crazy during the hard moments !). I wouldn't try it with rain or big wind in this river of rolling stones.
- if you don't feel it, easy escape by the normal trail of the parc

However, I can assure that the prize for the effort, going northbound, is amazing !! But I won't spoil !
After the second pass, no technical difficulties, you find a Conaf trail easily, and I even cross some tourists with a guide.

* '''2019-Nov-29/ Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe/ 3days / Northbound / Regular Hiking Route with OH-MR-V (Villa Cerro Castillo to Las Horquetas)'''

The section follows the rather popular tourist Hiking route Las Horquetas for the first two days, meaning there will be less solitude but also rather well maintained trails. The national park and the region around Cerro Castillo was very impressive, we especially enjoyed to take all the side trails and visit the numerous beautiful glacier lagoons. The only unpleasant part of the hike was the organization of the national park. The exorbitant high entrance fees are in no relation to the other parks, which is due to a high ratio of private land in the area but makes the park rather unattractive for tourists. some rangers seemed poorly informed and couldn't give much information (e.g. insisted that passes were "closed" and only after asking numerous times agreed to check with his colleagues that told that they are "open"). They also said it is not possible to hike the regular route of the GPT, because we have to check out of the NP at the checkpoint Las Horquetas. There is an optional hiking route continuing North from there. Due to bad weather coming up we ended up not finishing the northern stretch of the trail and just followed the entire Las Horquetas Route at the Carretera Austral.

* '''2019-Nov-29 / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe'''

Snow line is at around 1200 Meters but all passes are safely traversable.
The National Park Entrance Fee got raised to 29000 CLP per person for overnight hikes in season 19/20. The park generally seemed very poorly organized, we were told the passes are "closed" at first, whereas they were easy and safe to traverse. The ranger insisted that we could not hike the normal route northbound but have to sign out of the park at the Las Horquetas checkpoint. In high season, the ranger station in the park is manned, so maybe it is possible so sign out there and head northbound.

* '''2019-Nov-12 / Eva Havlová'''

There is still lots of snow in the National Park. I arrived to Villa Cerro Castillo 3 days ago (Novembre 12, 2019) and planed to hike nortbound but rangers didn't let me go. I saw the pass they were talking about (avalanche risk) and I don't think any avalanche could occur, but the thought is that there is lots of water running down and the trail is like a stream. They said it might be possible to do it next week.

==Season 2018/19==

* '''2019 Jan/ Oilrik / Northbound'''

We ended up doing the normal Cerro Castillo hike as the weather was forecasting heavy rain and snow so we did not want to be on the pass. The regular trail is just gorgeous and the park is beautiful. The trail in the north is not on the new CONAF maps but is marked on the old ones.

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18:'''

A sandy beach with a visible structure in the grass is the take-out for Lago Elizalde. After exiting, make your way through the farmland until encountering a gravel road that leads past the house at the top of the hill up to Ruta X-686.

Ruta X-686 is a lightly trafficked but well-formed gravel road that is fenced on either side. After crossing the Río Paloma, Ruta X-686 makes a sharp left and begins to climb. 4 km after the sharp left turn, cross a bridge to the left and climb to a wooden gate. If you descend the steep slope to the left of the gate, there is camping under some trees.

The wooden gate marks the beginning of a very long driveway to a house located near the lake. The route takes you along this driveway until a river crossing. After crossing the river, walk northeast along its shore towards the Río Paloma. After reaching the end of the fenceline near the Río Paloma, turn east and walk along the fenceline until reaching Lago Desierto. At the river outlet, there is a nice beach to put in to Lago Desierto.

There is no camping along the shores of Lago Desierto. The take-out is a rocky beach at the base of a bluff. Walk up the bluff and cross country through the farmland to Lago Azul. At the east end of the farm, descend down a road to a rocky beach at the Lago Azul shoreline with a metal structure.

There are a couple of potential camping options along the shoreline of Lago Azul. There are also several residences on the north shore. The take-out is a long rocky beach set before a well manicured forest. On the east end of the land near Lago La Paloma is an expensive looking house surrounded by several other buildings.

There is a 4WD track to the west of the smaller red house located south of the big residence. Ascend the steep climb on a well-formed road that is criss-crossed with several smaller tracks labeled in english with wooden signs. Due to the steep slopes on either side of the cut out road, there is no camping here.

Eventually, the route turns off of the road onto an overgrown 4WD track. Camping off the track is still difficult because of prickly vegetation and steep terrain. This track ends 2.5 km from where the Regular Packrafting Route joins the Regular Hiking Route. From here, the route involves some bushwhacking and following a small trail as it winds in and out of existence. Just before joining with the Regular Hiking Route, the route widens into an old 4WD track that passes some destroyed structures.

The routes join up at a large rock cairn and continues to follow a 4WD track until reaching a large wooden sign with a map of the Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo. Here there is also a campsite and ranger station. There is a 5.000 CLP fee to enter the reserve.

The route from here is a popular track for backpackers with designated campsites. The trail is well-formed and winds through the forest. When the trail becomes less obvious, the way is shown with yellow markers. In this area there is a designated campsite with a latrine.

At treeline, follow the cairns and rocks painted with white and red stripes through the scree up and over the first pass (approximate elevation 1.450 m). After the steep descent, reenter the trees. There is a campsite, Camping El Bosque, soon after reaching treeline (approximately elevation 940 m) with water and a latrine.

The trail begins to wind up through the forest toward Laguna Castillo. The sights from Laguna Castillo, which is at the base of the pass, are stunning. There are two tracks that climb up to the pass. Make sure to take the path that climbs to the south instead of continuing southeast over the obvious saddle.

The track down to Ruta X-720 is well formed, marked, and popular, but occasionally braided. Follow it until reaching the wooden stile with a rangers hut. From there join Ruta X-720, a dirt road which leads to Highway 7 and Villa Cerro Castillo.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Town: Villa Cerro Castillo. Villa Cerro Castillo has several restaurants, small markets, and plenty of lodging options, including a popular backpacker camping destination on the east side of town.
*2024-Dec / Michael and Kasia
We stayed at Hospedaje Gemita on Ramón Freire next door to Camping Castillo, 20.000 pp for room in a shared cabaña. The cabaña had 4 rooms (2 doubles, 2 singles), a well equipped kitchen, hot shower. Not allowed to do laundry in the Hospedaje, but there is a lavaderia in town. The hosts, Gemita and Pedro, are very nice. They have also spent a lot of time in Los Avellanos on horseback. Maria, one of the settlers in the valley in Avellanos is a cousin of Pedro.

We found gas in four shops, two had the threaded canisters for stoves, one was 6.000 for a 300 ml tank, the other was the COPEC across the highway from town, 4.000 a tank. The others just had refills, cheapest was the supermercado on the highway, 2.700 for a refill canister.

There is a Banco de Santander ATM in the COPEC on the west side of the highway.

Just on the other side of the highway on the road to the park there is a fruit and vegetable shop that also sells frutos secos and nuts in bulk. He had the best prices.

*2024-Mar /Joscha

Shop in Villa Cerro Castillo at -46.12201, -72.161708 has pasta, ramen, oats, chips, cookies, olive oil, peanuts, peanut butter, bread and some more stuff.

*Lovely yum restaurant in Coyhaique: Restaurant DaGus, Lautaro 82, 5950000 Coyhaique. Little hidden gem. -45.86411, -72.04916

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=
*2024-Dec Buses Sao Paolo passes through Villa Cerro Castillo for Coyhaique every day around noon, 8.000 pp; Buses ECA passes through Villa Cerro Castillo for Coyhaique Thursdays and Mondays songs 11:30, 8.000 pp.
*Buses to Villa Frei from Coyhaique bus terminal: Monday 7:30, 8:15, 15:30, 17:00, 19:30 Tuesday to Friday 8:15, 15:30, 17:30, 19:30 Saturday 08:00 and 14:00. No bus on Sunday. It takes about 30 minutes to get to Villa Frei & the bus generally turns around immediately & goes back to Coyhaique.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*2023/ Martin & Helena
To avoid right-of-way conflict, we followed Cristopher & Anna's advice (thanks guys!) and turned right after the first gate behind the beginning of the optional trail. From there you just need to follow MR, cross a few gates and you will end up on a fenced field with bee hives on one side.

*2023/ Jakub+Veronika:
1) Lago La Paloma, right of way conflict on RH (32, km 17.5): Owner of the land (and nearby houses) is called Cesar, according to him, the right way is by the mud road (OH 32-L) and not on the trail, which passes some 20m next to his house. The reason why there was a conflict might have been caused by Cesar's relative who didn't like tourists walking on their land.
2) Trail has been changed 3 years ago because of right of way conflict between CONAF and private owners on the OH (32-E). The new official trail (with official park entrance) leads on OH (32-E) for the first 2km, then turns right and goes down towards Rio Ibáñez to RR (32, km 85), well marked by metal yellow triangles.

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
The entrance closes at 2 pm but the guards there were much nicer than the first two, and it was also no problem to get in at 3 pm. We had to register us and pay the 30.000 clp p.p. though. The rest of the trek we were not asked to show the tickets.

*2020 / Martin Lizondo
The starting minor road gets into the private propiety of Pedro Sangüesa (+56 9 9099 9083) at 45º 52' 15,55" S, 72º 2' 46,28" O. He didn’t like people to pass through and denied that there was a trail, but it turned out to be a Conaf’s well signed area. He said in the future he will ask for money, but finally left me pass for no charge.
(...)
When leaving at the Nezoelandes entrance, you’ll have to pass near to the payment cabin. I didn’ t have to pay, but it was because I spent only a short time in the park. The cost for foreigners is normaly CLP 29,000.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT32 - Cerro Castillo]]

=Images=

GPT33H (Torres de Avellano)

2025-03-07T17:44:24Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
The GPT manual has an extensive description of this route and all its options.

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025-FEB-28 to 2025-MAR-01 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH (var. A, 01A, 01) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

We chose variants A, 01A and 01, so it was easy section which leads mainly on a paved road. There is a nice view of Cerro Castillo on the beginning and a waterfall of Rio Ibáñez [148.4/212] was also worth it.

From the point X [1.3/328] to the point X [5.5/554] we ascent on the minor road. The rest of this section is on the paved road.

CHALLENGES: Monotonous walk on the paved road.

BIVOUACING: There is a fence along the road most of the time, but it's possible to find some quiet places on the pastures. We spent the only night here:

WATER: Water from the nearby lakes, eventually from Rio Ibáñez. There are almost no small streams close to the road.

RESUPPLY: There is a well stocked store in the center of Villa Cerro Castillo, called 'Janito'. Close to there is a stylish foodtruck made of two old buses. There are more opportunities in Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez (at least 2 stores and even more restaurants).

'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-23 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 3B, RR, variant C,H, / Thijmen Scholten'''</span

* I started hitchiking from Cerro Castillo, but barely any cars passed and Around 10.00 de bus came
* Took option 3 and first day is only road walking , the first part untill the last settler (30.8) is really really really boring ! Hitching did not work. You can get a taxi from Cero de Castillo's it will cost 70.000 pesos.
* Water: On option 3 and the road walks of the RR there is not much water. For the rest water is no problem
* Camping : Many camp places everywhere.
* Option C the Laguna is nice
* I camped at crosspoint to the Laguna (option C), nice place but many dead trees and branches so lookout where you put your tent when it's windy
* Around km 49 I followed the Osmo trail trough the forest instead of the presumely swampy grassland trail (it rained all night)
* It rained all day and also next day so I opted to take option 8 instead. But I am very glad I did continue on the RR because the view on the other side of the pass is beautiful!
* Scrambling down from the pass was ok even in the rain. Just be sure to follow the gpx carefully ! Otherwise you will end up at a ledge
* The camp site at the lake is very wind exposed my tent blew away. Decided to pack it again and camp down in the beautiful forest.
* As for the bushbash part. I followed the right side of the river (looking downstream). There was a trail which I lost often but easy to walk. Even saw campfire traces so probably it's used more often. I don't know if it's easier than the right side. But the BB/CC part took me less than 2 hours this side.
* The first official fjord (69.8) was already above my waist and very difficult (crossed it diagonal as supposed). It rained all night so probably the river is not only affected by glacial melt but also by rain alot.
* Talked to Roberto (he lives around km 80) and he confirmed the river was high due to the rain. He adviced me to cross at his house where the river has 3 arms. I did that and the crossing was just doable the water was untill my waist.
* Roberto also offered me to cross with his horse if it was impossible on foot.
* Took variant H to avoid crossing 2 more times
* The road walk has not alot of nice camping places. Found 1 grassy patch with water around 5km before the lake.
* When the hiking trail next to the lake starts , just go straight to the beach otherwise you have to bushbash.
* The trail next to the lake is sometimes covered by vegetation I break some branches to make a way. Is everyone does this (or with Macheti) the trail will stay walkable (look out for thorns).
* There is internet (Entel) from around halfway the trail.
* I Camped at the end of the trail (km 117.6) close to the lake, there is little stream there as well.
* Road walk to Ibanez is very very very boring as well.
* At water source 135.3 the creek is very small but there is a black hose laying around at the left side of the road which you can use to fill your bottle.
* After 3 hours the first car passed and I got a hitch to town.

25-02-19-25-02-23 / 4 days (interrupted)/ SOBO / OH 03B-RR/ Volker
Patagonia at its best (and its worst)

Day 0: After gpt32 and resupply in Villa Cerro Castillo too many people hitchhiking on the Carreterra, so I called Pedro Zuleta (+56 993 5786), who drove me for 20k to the start of 03B in the late afternoon. Walked until the pass at S 46.198129° W 72.357921° and camped there (nice place, but very windy).
Day 1: Light rain all the day long. Because of the weather I decided not to take the mountain route (OH07) and continued on the RR (though technically a MR, blocked for cars by fallen trees) and feels like a trail), one non-indicated (very easy) ford. With the rain getting heavier and only few feasible camp spots along the way, early camp at S 46.280118° W 72.435213°. Heavy rain all the night long.
Day 2: The day started with a non-indicated ford 50m behind my camp spot. All further river crossings (including the indicated ford at 52,0: dry feet, broken trees serving as a bridge). Weather better than forecasted, the light rain ceased during the morning and by noon the sun came out. Instead of following the track file and crossing the swampy meadow CC, I stayed on the left side, where a trail leads along the edge of the forest (not without stepping out on the meadow for the scenic view on Cerro los Pumas, which now came out of the clouds). A river bank at the end of the meadow allowed me to dry my tent and cook the warm meal I had skipped the evening before. After the puesto steep down and on the RR very nice along the river. After the steep ascent to the upper valley, though indicated as CC, the trail continues, partly along the river, partly more to the right, avoiding swamps. In the rocky parts, it‘s marked with cairns. My plan was to reach the indicated camp at 63,4, however a storm with hurricane-like blasts made the scrambling across rocks and broken trees very dangerous. Even in easy terrain I could hardly stand it. With a suicidal ford (one blast during the fording: game over) and 2km through wind-exposed rocky terrain ahead I found a flat spot in a wood at S 46.391614° W 72.494383°. Impossible to raise a tent without the protection of the dense wood! And it has to be a wood with young trees (many branches and even some trunks broke that night in forests with older and higher trees). Take this into account, when thinking about OH07 (and read the comments by Alexey, who opened up this route).
Day 3: Though the storm had subsided and the ford was doable, given the overall situation (3km of BB/CC, several fords, bad weather, possibly another storm in the afternoon and 90km ahead with a shortage of food, if slowed down too much by the conditions) I decided to walk back. Rain made the trail very swampy and slippery, 3 creeks, that I crossed dry feet the day before, now to be forded. Camped at the same spot as the day before.
Day 4: Rain the whole night long, not ceasing in the morning. I was very lucky: just arrived at the settler, where the MR gets passable for cars, when the same driver, who drove me to the start of 03B 4 days before, dropped 3 Chileans there (he had offered to drive me there for 70k) and gave me a free ride back to Villa CC.

* '''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-23 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 3B, RR, variant C,H, / Thijmen Scholten'''</span

* I started hitchiking from Cerro Castillo, but barely any cars passed and Around 10.00 de bus came
* Took option 3 and first day is only road walking , the first part untill the last settler (30.8) is really really really boring ! Hitching did not work. You can get a taxi from Cero de Castillo's it will cost 70.000 pesos.
* Water: On option 3 and the road walks of the RR there is not much water. For the rest water is no problem
* Camping : Many camp places everywhere.
* Option C the Laguna is nice
* I camped at crosspoint to the Laguna (option C), nice place but many dead trees and branches so lookout where you put your tent when it's windy
* Around km 49 I followed the Osmo trail trough the forest instead of the presumely swampy grassland trail (it rained all night)
* It rained all day and also next day so I opted to take option 8 instead. But I am very glad I did continue on the RR because the view on the other side of the pass is beautiful!
* Scrambling down from the pass was ok even in the rain. Just be sure to follow the gpx carefully ! Otherwise you will end up at a ledge
* The camp site at the lake is very wind exposed my tent blew away. Decided to pack it again and camp down in the beautiful forest.
* As for the bushbash part. I followed the right side of the river (looking downstream). There was a trail which I lost often but easy to walk. Even saw campfire traces so probably it's used more often. I don't know if it's easier than the right side. But the BB/CC part took me less than 2 hours this side.
* The first official fjord (69.8) was already above my waist and very difficult (crossed it diagonal as supposed). It rained all night so probably the river is not only affected by glacial melt but also by rain alot.
* Talked to Roberto (he lives around km 80) and he confirmed the river was high due to the rain. He adviced me to cross at his house where the river has 3 arms. I did that and the crossing was just doable the water was untill my waist.
* Roberto also offered me to cross with his horse if it was impossible on foot.
* Took variant H to avoid crossing 2 more times
* The road walk has not alot of nice camping places. Found 1 grassy patch with water around 5km before the lake.
* When the hiking trail next to the lake starts , just go straight to the beach otherwise you have to bushbash.
* The trail next to the lake is sometimes covered by vegetation I break some branches to make a way. Is everyone does this (or with Macheti) the trail will stay walkable (look out for thorns).
* There is internet (Entel) from around halfway the trail.
* I Camped at the end of the trail (km 117.6) close to the lake, there is little stream there as well.
* Road walk to Ibanez is very very very boring as well.
* At water source 135.3 the creek is very small but there is a black hose laying around at the left side of the road which you can use to fill your bottle.
* After 3 hours the first car passed and I got a hitch to town.

* ''' 2025-FEV-15 > 19 / 4 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 33-B > RR > 33-D > RR > 33-H > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : <strike>GPT31</strike>+GPT32+GPT33
| Meteo : soleil nuages et vent
| Eau : difficile au début
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : Rivière, éboulis

J'ai fais quelques courses et j'ai mangé au restaurant à Villa Cerro Castillo. Ensuite j'ai repris la randonnée. Attention l'eau est difficilement accessible car les lacs sont clôturés et en contrebas de la route. Sur la gravel road j'ai réussi à faire 4 km d'auto-stop. J'ai mal préparé ma randonnée et j'ai raté la 33-A. Mais je n'avais pas encore dépassé la 33-B alors je l'ai prise. Il y a un petit ruisseau devant le settler du km 0,7. Je n'ai pas pu faire de stop sur la gravel road car je n'ai vu aucun vehicule. Il y a un ford au km 36 quand le sentier traverse la rivière. Au km 52 un arbre permet de passer la rivière. Je suis passé par la 33-D pour aller voir les lacs. Je suis content d'avoir eu du soleil car la descente après le km 62 est vraiment raide sur des pierres lisse et des éboulis. Il n'y a pas de bush-bashing sur cette section du GPT. La descente après le lac se fait bien puis on entre dans un bois ou il n'y a pas de végétation au sol. Ensuite il faut suivre la rivière en marchand dans l'eau jusqu'au km 68,5 où la rivière se transforme en rapide et on trouve un sentier dans le sous-bois. Il faudrait trouver une autre couleur pour les sections de randonnées où on marche dans l'eau. Les fords des km 71,8, 73,5, 78,3 et 89,5 se font sans mettre les pieds dans l'eau. Le chemin est innondé au km 75,5, difficile à éviter car il est entouré de marais. Le ford du km 81,2 était dangereux car le courant était très fort même avec 60cm d'eau. Au km 98,5 il faut aller directement sur la plage. Le chemin le long du lac est parfois envahi par la végétation surtout dans les zones humide. A partir du km 130 c'est la gravel road peu frequentée X-735. J'ai eu du mal à faire de l'auto-stop mais j'ai reussi à faire les 15 derniers km avec un camion. Je n'ai pas pu m'arrêter à la cataracte du km 148,4, c'est mon seul regret car le vent était si violent que j'avais du mal à avancer.
FEV-20: Repos Coyhaique.

''' 2025-FEB-7 to 2025-FEB-15 / 8 hiking days / Hiking / SOBO / option 03B, RR, option 02 / Nimrod & Tamar '''

Good camps for bad weather (more info below): (-46.172528, -72.273827) Hut near km 52. puesto?[4.8/745] (-46.48726, -72.10065)

We think that its worth mentioning that if the weather is bad and you choose option 02 you should expect hard fords and having hard time following the trail until connecting back to RR.

Day 1:

Hitchhiked from Coyhaique - 3 rides 5 hours. Started walking at 17:00, camped at (-46.116414, -72216049). It was a little wind protected.

Day 02:

Rain all night and all day. Got a lift for 5 km by 2 chilean hikers that went to the Torres and back. Camped at: (-46.172528, -72.273827). Rain and wind all night and the camp location was well protected.

Day 03:

Finally sun came out, so we dried our gear. Camped at km 62. Great view and wind protection. The weather became bad again.

Day 04:

Started hailing in the morning and it should have became worse along the day. We climbed to the pass early in the morning. Got a glimpse of the Torres and made our way to camp at km 52. Near the camp there is an abandoned small hut where we stayed until the next day. The hut is well protected from rain and wind, and you can even make a fire inside.

Day 05:

Our Inreach forecast lied us (again...) and the rain didn't stop until evening. Took option 2 - Rio Avalleno. The river was swollen because of the rain and the fords were quite difficult for us. The trail was gone under the water in a lot of parts, and in some parts it was just CC. Track files was irrelevant in many parts. Camped at puesto?[4.8/745]. Like described before - it's actually a wooden built wall which protects from the wind. The wind was crazy and it gave us great wind protection to pitch our tent and to enjoy a fire.

Day 06:

Finally a nice day. Untill we connected to the RR the trail was in bad condition, and again the track files not very helpful. You can skip 2 fords at km 9 if you stick to the nice and visible trail on the east side.

Maria and Julio not at home. Camped at (-46.276123, -72.204873) There was some wind protection and no water.

Day 07:

At (-46.275422, -72.198820) we met Ricardo (we are not sure if he is a settler or a woreke), which kindly suggested to help us cross the Avellano on his horse back. The river was quite swollen from the rain but it's hard for us to say if it was crossable by foot. Camped at (-46.48726, -72.10065) by the small lake. The wind was strong and the campsite was well protected by the big rocks. We filtered water from the small lake/swamp. It might be flooded earlier in the season though.

Day 08:

Walked all the way to X[130.4/311] and camped near the junction. Not wind protected but the weather was good. There were a lot of water at variant N.

Woke up late and took the bus at 9:00. About one hour ride, 1000 clp. Times like MiaimZelt has written.

'''2025-Feb-02 to 2025-Jan-05 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 3B, RR, Opt 8 / Tom'''

Day 1 - Rainy: I hitchhiked from Villa Castillo to the junction at the beginning of 3B. Great views, but if you can afford to pay for transportation to the end of the road, it's worth it. I camped at -46.2647991, -72.41223312025. Due to the rain, there were several streams, and some areas offered wind protection.

Day 2 - Rainy: A simple day, just following the route. Be mindful of the exit point from the road—I was focused on the rain and missed it. The Mallín (wetland) can be challenging at times, but nothing too difficult.

I arrived at Camp 57.2, where four students had waited for a day, hoping for clear skies.

Day 3 - Sunny: I started early, around 6:45 AM. It took about 2.5 hours to reach the viewpoint. Around -46.3870597, -72.4916724, there's a more recent landslide. Nothing too difficult, just loose rocks and fallen trees. Another 2.5 hours to return. On the same day, I started Opt 8 at 1 PM. This section took me 6.5 hours. It's a cattle trail, poorly marked—you really need to follow the GPS carefully, as there are many paths that lead nowhere. I recommend checking the contour lines since there is significant elevation gain. I arrived at Camp ? 11.6, which is Puesto Aguero—it appears to be in use, with sleeping bags and food inside. The camping area isn't ideal, as the ground retains a lot of moisture.

Day 4 - Rain/Sunny: I started at 2 PM when the rain stopped. The river was quite high, so unlike Michael and Kasia, I used the "punte" (a makeshift crossing). It's a fairly slender tree, but there's a rope to help with balance. I had no issues, but if the river were lower, I would have crossed directly through the water. At the beginning, the route is quite muddy but clear. The first half can be a bit more challenging at times, but the trail is well-marked towards the end. It took 4.5 hours to reach Bahía Muerta.

General Notes: From Route 7 to the Torres viewpoint, it's quite straightforward and well-marked. The difficult section is between Camp 57.2 and Camp ? 11.6. I know there's a route from Camp ? 11.6 to another viewpoint of the Torres, which is not included in current GPS tracks. It seems to be a trail that guides from Avellano Bahía Muerta are currently working on.

'''2025-Jan-17 to 2025-Jan-21 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH03B RR + variant D + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Took the bus at 10 from Villa Cerro Castillo to the start of Option 03B. We'd hope to hitch the dirt road but we literally saw only one car.

Bridge 25.7km - good place to get water

Camped just before junction for option C (46.5km roughly) by the stream in the woods. Great wind protection.

49km to 50.8km - track files go CC but on OSM there's a trail we followed it and it worked well. CC route looked wet and boggy in places.

Ford 52km - lots of downed trees so can cross with dry feet.

Took variant D - easy and beautiful would recommend it.

Pass 60km small patch of snow on South side no problem without spikes

Camped at camp 63.4km - very beautiful but no wind protection, we were lucky the wind was pretty calm.

CC & BB 64.3 + 4.2 - we just stuck with the stream the whole way down worked out well.

Ford 81.2km - about 550m before the waypoint the trail gets close to the river for us it looked easy at this point so we just crossed here. Just over knee deep at 4pm on a hot sunny day, no rain for the past few days.

Took variant H to skip the other 2 fords.

Camped at 93.3km (S 46° 28.690', W 072° 11.674') nice grassy area with a small stream.

98.5km - shortly after leaving the road RR take you through some bushwhacking but it's avoidable just go straight to the beach.

Camped on the beach around 116km

Road walked to 138.5km where we saw the first car of the day and got a hitch to Puerto Ibanez.

* '''2025 Jan 02 to Jan 11 / 10 hiking days / SOBO, NOBO, WEBO / Hiking / Opt 3B, RR, Opt 2, Opt 8 / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick notes:

A nice section with some great views and some good optionals. It is a fairly popular trail up to the Torres; we met 11 other hikers on the RR. Opt 2 is a really pretty and peaceful valley. Opt 8 is an adventurous alternative route, probably better to exit GPT33 than to enter it on full resupply weight.

CAMPS:

Night 01: -46.25532, -72.38365 (good water access, decent wind protection (look up before you set your tent, there were some widow makers), next to the road, no view)

Night 02: -46.34592, -72.49822 (Camp 57.2) (decent view, excellent water access, minimal wind protection, surrounded by dead trees, not safe in windy conditions, a lot of spots to choose from)

Night 03: -46.40655, -72.49601 (amazing view, decent water access, no wind protection)

Night 04: same as night 3

Night 05: -46.35732, -72.45379 (flat space for two tents, wind protected, just off the trail, water is a little ways away)

Night 06: -46.36802, -72.43937 (flat space for 2 tents, excellent wind protection, no view, water is a little ways away, accompanied by the sturdy arrieros shelter)

Night 07: same as night 6

Night 08: same as night 2

Night 09: -46.39734, -72.58201 (Camp ? 11.6) (not much truly flat space, but if you aren't picky there's lots of space, no wind protection, water is down a steep hill,next to the used puesto)

WATER:

On 3B and into RR on the road it was difficult to find at times. On all trail sections it was easy to find.

Day 01 - Jan 2nd

We got the bus from the terminal in Coyhaique. It was a bit of an ordeal. The buses hadn't been running for two days on account of the holiday, and we had not purchased tickets in advance. There was quite a line and it seemed they had been sold out much earlier. We went and talked to the driver after he finished loading most of the luggage. He said to give him a minute to check. He luckily had two empty seats to Cerro Castillo, and we paid him cash at the break point in Cerro Castillo, 8.000 pp, the normal price. He dropped us at the beginning of Opt 3B. There was a bus stop there. Opt 3B is a gravel road. There is some nice scenery, but overall it's a road walk. There isn't much traffic, but hitchhiking is possible. RR from km 24 where Opt 3B meets it is also gravel road until km 45.5. There isn't a huge grade and the road is in good condition, so it's easy if somewhat underwhelming walking. Water is not so easily accessible. All the little side creeks had dried up or were just water trickling through mud. Much of the time we were too high above the water, or it was fenced off. At km 24.9 there is an unmarked bridge. There was good water access there. There was also a very nice campsite there at (-46.21595, -72.34452). It had flat space for at least one tent, maybe two, trees and good water access close by. The next good water spot we found was at Settler 29.4. There was easy water access next to the bridge down to the barn. We didn't find water again until km 35.5 when we camped for the night. Camp 32.0 should be marked “Camp with No Water”. We did not see any water nearby or anything that looked like there is water at another time of year. At km 31.9 there was a locked gate with a No Trespassing sign, but a set of stairs to walk over the fence on the left hand side. The stairs were solid and in good condition. At km 32.9 was an easy open gate with a No Trespassing sign facing the other direction. It looked like someone had been working there recently, lots of fresh wood cuts, but we didn't see anyone. We camped just off the road at km 35.5 in a little clearing, just after a gate. There was access to the estero there.

Day 02 - Jan 3rd

We continued the road walk. The trail in the forest was very nice. The meadows were a little marshy but we moved through them fairly quickly. Ford 52.0 was easy, top of the calf and not much current. There was actually a fallen tree that could work as a bridge to do a dry foot crossing. We camped at Camp 52.7 next to a stream. This would not be a good site if it is windy. Fortunately we had a windless night. No issues finding water this day. We met three other hikers on their way out of Avellanos.

Day 03 - Jan 4th

The trail to the Trailhead 57.0 is easy to follow and, except in a few places, in good shape. There were a few places where it disappeared for a bit. Where they diverged, sometimes GPT track files were better, sometimes OSM, we just chose what seemed the most traveled. After Trailhead 57.0 the track is a little more difficult to follow. The OSM track was a little more accurate for the CC sections. There was only one ford at the end of the valley a little before it goes up into the woods, around km 59.3, just below the knee, not a strong current. The way through the woods at the end was difficult to follow. It is fairly overgrown in parts and we ended up walking a bit above the GPT track pushing through trees until the boulder field. We were trying to make it to Camp 61.2 above the pass. After the Trailhead 57.0 we did not see another suitable place to camp until close to Camp 61.2; everything was wet or on a slope, either covered in rock or trees. We camped at (-46.40655, -72.49601), about 400 m before Camp 61.2 in a flat area. There was no wind protection, but the night was calm. The site has a great view of the mountains and one of the lakes. We met five other hikers heading out over the course of the day.

Day 04 - Jan 5th

We did a packless day trip up to the pass to see the Torres. The weather was good, full sun and light wind. We spent about an hour on the pass. The Torres are nice; the one in the middle looked to us like it had the face of the rock eating monster from Neverending Story. As nice as the Torres were, we actually preferred the view on the mountains on the north side of the pass. On the way back down we looked at the area around Camp 61.2. We didn't really see any spaces suitable for a tent, certainly not for something the size of the X-Mid 2. There seemed to be a few options for bivys. There were strong gusts of wind in the night and part of our tent collapsed. We managed to get it back up and it stayed up for the rest of the night.

Day 05 - Jan 6th

We headed back NOBO on RR. We met Mia who was heading SOBO at the ford. It was nice to cross paths with another GPTer. At the X 54.5 we switched to Opt 2 Avellanos Bypass. We were interested to see the valley. The trail in places is in great shape, especially the higher areas, and in places non-existant, especially in low, wet areas, or where the river has washed it out. At one point we saw a huemul, our first one. It was walking up stream in the river very slowly and pausing often. We watched it for about 15 minutes before it finally got up on the hill on the opposite side and climbed into the trees. A little while later there was a huge waterfall coming down from one of the mountains. We camped in a sandy area under some trees a ways away from the river. All fords were more of a blessing in the scolding sun than a challenge. The riverbed moved in some places into the land where the GPS tracks were but it was very easy to navigate.

Day 06 - Jan 7th

We walked further downriver to Puesto ? 4.9. It is not actually a puesto, but a stopover half-shelter with fire pit for people driving animals. It was a great wind barrier, and a place to hang out on our rest/”waiting rain over” day. Just a few meters away we found a nice flat area with space for two tents that was very well wind protected and we were expecting 90 km/h winds to come next day. We left our packs and went further down river. The valley is really beautiful and has some great views. For a while the trail is in excellent condition, then it starts to disappear. It was not possible to follow the GPT track for all of it, but we found other paths. The river fords got increasingly more challenging as we went down stream. More drainages joined the river and added water. We turned around at Ford 8.2 and we noticed the increase in river level just over those few hours. The most difficult ford was mid-thigh with a good amount of current (at 6pm, earlier around 3 pm it was good 20 cm lower).

Day 07 - Jan 8th

We took a zero day. Rain and high wind all day. The camp site worked very well for inclement weather.

Day 08 - Jan 9th

We backtracked the rest of Opt 2 and arrived midday back at Camp 57.2. We were planning to exit 33H on Opt 8 but didn't want to start it the same day. We enjoyed a half rest day with sun and no wind at the campsite. We passed three other tents during the day.

Day 09 - Jan 10th

We started Opt 8 in the morning. For the first 7 km or so it is actually fairly easy to follow. The GPX tracks aren't always spot on, but we followed them as closely as we could and we managed to find the trail more often than not. The landslide seemed to be quite small and we just walked below it. The two fords at that point are just over a side stream, so probably dry foot crossable a little later in the season. Everything after that until Camp ? 11.6 where we stopped for the night was a bit of a challenge. In areas the trail is in excellent shape and then it just disappears into slopes of grass and blow downs. We would lose the track and CC for a while, finding it again a couple hundred meters on. I just walked with the Garmin in one hand for most of the way since I had to check it so frequently. The last few km to the campsite were very muddy. It ended up being a very long and very exhausting day. We did not see any serviceable campsites for our tent between the beginning and Camp ? 11.6. Camp ? 11.6 is a puesto with a sign saying it is called Puesto Agüero. There is also a sign saying “No Dejar Basura”, which we took to mean that the puesto is used, at least unofficially, for public camping, but just to pack your trash out. The site does not have good wind protection, but we had a windless night.

Day 10 - Jan 11th

Ford 11.5 had the same makeshift bridge that Maggie & Julien reported last season. We decided to ford instead of use the bridge. We forded a little lower than the waypoint. It was above the knee and with a fair amount of current. The path after the ford was generally very easy to follow. In the pastures we kept an eye on the GPS as there are animal trails that go all over, but in the forested areas it was very clear. It was very muddy for the first half and mostly dry for the second half. There are some nice views of the river along the way, and of the valley toward the end of the section. The MR at the end has been extended further up the valley and now starts about 1.5 km sooner than indicated in the track files. We walked into Puerto Murta around 18:30. We had no particular difficulty with Opt 8, and it was not overgrown enough that we wished we had a machete at any point. Though it doesn't look like it from the elevation profile in Gaia, due to the constant ups and downs there is an enormous amount of cumulative elevation gain and loss. For this reason we think that this is a much better option for exiting the section, so the pack can be as light as possible.

* '''2025 Jan 4th to Jan 9th / 5.5 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 3B, RR, Opt D & E & H / MiaimZelt'''

This section indeed is a real gem, but also challenging. Weather was hot and sunny, too warm in my opinion.

Day 1: Wanted to hitchhike from Villa Cerro Castillo to the start of Opt 3B, but then a bus came an took me. Mostly boring hiking along a minor road.

Day 2: Continued along the minor road, soon it got smaller and wasn't passable for cars anymore. At -46.254893, -72.381462 is a new fence, theoretically it could be opened, but you need to be strong. I crawled under it... Here -46.260122, -72.397627 is a large rather open field with lot's of flat space to pitch a tent. Water nearby. -46.260547, -72.400255 small building, which was unoccupied. The horsetrail is in good condition. Camped here: -46.352094, -72.488826, but there is only space for small tents.

Day 3: The ascend in the forest was also in good condition. Later you have to sharpen your eyes and look for the cairns. Met Kasia and Michael, was nice to meet other GPT hikers. Option D is marked with cairns, but there is no trail and i had to cross the river 2 more times. Especially the first lake is a real gem.
Hike up to the pass was not difficult, just take your time.
Way down is more challenging. I had to cross a large and steep patch of snow, which was ok without microspikes. Than you have to climb down a steep slope with lots of boulders, but they have good traction. The middle part was the hardest, because both smartphone and Garmin didn't show my correct position and wanted me to hike down a small waterfall. According to the smartphone there had to be a lake, but there was a forest instead, which wasn't shown neither on the Garmin nor on the Smartphone. Hiked down left of the waterfall, which looked much safer. The last part before you arrive at the glacier lagoon, is a large field of XXL-boulders which you have to cross. The views at the lake were awesome!
The bushbashing was mostly easy or at least not difficult. The worst was the stretch along Rio Ventisquero to the Trailhead. In the beginning i tried to walk in the riverbed, which often means to walk in the river, not just crossing the river. But when a 2nd river was added, the water was up to middle thigh and had a stromg current - not a good idea to continue this way. Hiked at the left side in the forest instead. Sometimes there was a vague animal trail, but it disappeared very often. This was really annoying with a lot of bushbashing. Camped at Camp Without Water {33H} [68.7/766].

Day 4: Crossing of Rio Ventisquero was just up to my knees and not diffucult. Enjoyed the horsetrail along Rio Avellano, but i took Option E, because the RR was i overgrown in this area. Option E is in better condition. Didn't met Maria & Julio, later i saw to guys on horseback. Ford {33H} [81.4/492] was up to my crotch (i'm 1.74cm) and had a strong current, but i made it. My feet had traction, but couldn't place my trekkingpoles correctly due to the strong current. You have to cross 3 times here, but the other two were easy.
The Minor road is not like a real road, it's more a 4x4 track used by horses with sandy ground and vegetation in the middle. It's hard to find a camp at this minor road, because of the thorny vegetation. Camped here: -46.478173, -72.19456. It's a patch of flat gras with enough space for several tents, has a small stream and good protection from the wind.

Day 5: According to my Inreach the wind gusts should reach up to 101km/h. Was indeed very windy, but fortunately it came from the back and the wind was warm. The trail along Lago General Carrera is very scenic and mostly visible, but also strenuous. Some (fortunately very short parts) are badly overgrown - a machete would be useful. Almost every plant in this area has thorns. The ups and downs a very steep, which i didn't like in the heat. Lot's of water. Used Camp {33H} [116.3/239] which has a great protection from the wind. But be aware of the thorny plants while searching where to pitch you tent - there are only 2 places without them.

Day 6: The last stretch until the minor road was much faster. The first part of the minor road has vegetation on it and isn't used by cars. Brought all the water from the lake, but it wasn't necessary. Small streams here: -46.403664, -71.975755 and next to the road at Settler {33H} [121.8/643]. The settler wasn't at home and the wooden gates were locked, had to climb over them. There are several minor roads, not just one. Bridge {33H} [129.3/304] is a deep canyon, didn't see a possibility to get water there. Walked two hours along the road between Levican and Puerto Ibañez, until i got a hitch.

* '''Dec 6-11 / 03B + RR SOBO / wiiiim'''

Great route, still early season, weather was sunny but still cold, rivers were low, the infamous crossing of the lower rio Avellano just above knee height.
The crux of the route was the South side of the pass, sections of snow, I crossed later in the day when it was softer, avoided most of the snow on the East rock flank, but around 1200m the rock slabs were wet & the gullies in between were filled with snow. A bit of a maze, it took some time and back tracking, I used micro spikes but its probably okay without, I think knowing how to self arrest on snow with hiking poles is always a good skill to have, lots of videos exist on that.
Laguna la Plaza is a short/easy side trip well worth it, the North side of the pass is fast going & pretty well indicated (ciarns), on the South side section of CC once on the valley floor it seems easier to wade through the (spectacular) river.
I was pleasantly surprised with the walk along the lake, it’s really different and beautiful.
I was lucky to get a ride out from the MR to Puerto Ibáñez quite quickly from around -46.36065, -71.90255 but it’s usually very quiet.

At -46.26604, -72.41735 there is an established rock bivvy that could also fit a medium size tent.

Overall I would probably recommend the regular route NOBO to cut out most of the start/end road sections: organise a ride from Puerto Ibanez to the trail head (it will be worth the money) and on the other end the finish of 03B on the carretera austral will have plenty of traffic to hitch a ride

• '''2024-Dec-09 to 2024-Dec-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt.A + Opt.01A + Opt.01/ Julien'''

Following the road to Puerto Ibáñez
Just a little difficulty about finding water because most of lakes and rivers are private now.

* '''2024-Nov-28 to 30 / 3 day / Hiking / Circuit / GPT33H Option 5 and 5A Valle Miller from Puerto Alarcon to Valle Jaramillo and return to Puerto Sanchez / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

The Cordillera de Avallano between Rio Ibanez and Lago General Carrera is one of the hidden treasures of Patagonia. And Valle Miller is one possible entrance into this mountain range.

After packrafting to Puerto Alarcon we packed our packrafting gear and hiked up Valle Miller along the minor road to the bridge over Rio Miller to crossing “X {33H-05} [7.8/611]”. There are numerous possible camp sites and water sources along this minor road.

A few hundred meters after crossing “X {33H-05} [7.8/611]” is the last pasture with suitable camp sites.

Valle Jaramillo is a very scenic side valley of Valle Miller that can be explored in one day.

This side valley has no distinct trail but the forest is reasonably open. Therefore ascending and descending through the forest is not really bush bashing but just a slalom around the numerous fallen trees.

Once the open terrain is reached, hikers can see the very scenic valley with some remaining smaller glaciers.

The cross country walk to the 1679 m high pass is very rewarding in good weather. From an altitude of 1400 m the terrain was in parts covered by snow fields as we visited this early in the season.

We returned to Puerto Sanchez which is the alternative starting Point for hikers.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024 Mar 22 to 2024 Mar 28 / 7 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Maddi, Tom and Jordan'''

Day 1: Got the public bus from Puerto Ibanez to Levican for about 1000CLP each. We were the only ones on the bus and the driver dropped us at the trailhead. After walking along the road for a while we miraculously got a hitch in the back of a pick up for a couple of kms. Trail down to the lake was a little confusing but just head down and you'll hit the main trail eventually. Trail along the lake has plenty of up and down but nothing too strenuous. We had a perfect, windless day with not too much sun so it was pretty easy going, plenty of spots to get water once down near the lake. The notes said there was some scary exposure but we didn't really encounter any along this section, the path is pretty solid and clearly used by horses. Set up camp on the lake on the small rocky beach at (-46.47634,-72.08138). Just enough room for our Zpacks Triplex and Jordan's free standing tent. Jordan caught a fish that night but chucked it back.

Day 2: Great sunrise over the lake but then it started to rain. Jordan caught another fish which the boys had for breakfast. Walked along the lake in light rain until the old road where we went up the steep hill and started inland. One apple tree along this section but the apples weren't great. Followed the disused road until the end and then started along the track. Hit our first ford at about (-46.46161,-72.24620) which was above the knee on me (174cm tall) and quite fast flowing/muddy from all the rain. Tom slipped climbing up the bank here and fell backwards into the water but somehow avoided getting swept away. Kept walking along until we hit the refugio, unfortunately it was locked. Set up camp next to it so we could use the porch for shelter then went to scout the next ford just past it. This one was way too high and fast to cross so we were hoping it would go down overnight. Rio Avellano also looked impossible but that was a problem for the next day.

Day 3: Luckily the tributary into the Rio Avellano had gone down significantly overnight and we were able to cross without issues, although it was still fairly fast flowing at about knee height. Had a go at crossing the Rio Avellano just after this ford where it is marked on the GPX and others had mentioned it was doable but we had no luck, even employing the three astern. Decided to try the settler's place up on the hill to see if we could get help crossing but noone seemed to be around. Kept following the track along the river, hoping for a place to cross. Jordan somehow manage to cross using the eddies formed by a large tree that had fallen into the river. He had to come back across to help me get over with Tom but it was a near miss. Water level just below hip and quite fast flowing. Massive relief to make it across and get to enjoy the sun a bit. Had lunch near Maria and Julio's but still didn't run into anyone other than sheep. Enjoyed an awesome section walking along through ankle deep water in the autumn colours with snowy peaks in the background. Hit another fairly fast flowing ford, just above the knee, but manageable now we were getting good at crossing 3 astern. Thought we would make it to camp just below the towers but unfortunately hit another ford that even Jordan couldn't cross. Much higher consequence with huge rapids downstream and the water level above the hip. Tried to walk upstream a km or so to see if we could cross but ends up high above the river as it enters a canyon section. Scrambled back down and camped for the night on the track in the forest with the hope of lower water in the morning.

Day 4: Water was much lower in the morning and we were able to cross with no issues. Still over the knee and fast flowing but the group of 3 works wonders. Headed into the forest and up past the old corral then into the swampy section. This was super rough going as the swamp was over the knee in parts. We constantly switched between climbing between the tangle of tree or wading through the swamp. It was raining lightly and getting quite cold by this point. We made it to a clearing along the river at about 11am but the towers were in complete fog and I was shivering hard. Decided to set up camp in the forest and try for the towers the next day in the hope of more visibility. Found a nice camp spot in the forest at (-46.42932,-72.49572) with easy access to the river for water. Snuggled down to try to warm up all afternoon, only emerging for meals.

Day 5: Set off through the forest up towards the towers. Says bush bashing but was actually pretty easy walking up the hill. Towers still in a bit of cloud but made it up there mid morning and spent some time scrambling around the lake to take a look around. Camp site in the rocks was flooded from yesterday so glad we didn't try to get up there to camp. Scramble over the boulder field and up to the pass isn't too bad, although some snow patches made it a bit slippery. Cool granite slabs on the way up. Super windy once we got over the pass so hurried down the valley. No navigation issues but definitely got wet feet walking along the river. Camped at the refugio.

Day 6: Hiked along clear trail until we got to the minor road. Hoped to get a rare hitch but didn't really see anyone. Decided to hike along the river just before the bridge toward Lago Lapparent to find somewhere to camp. Found a few awesome spots along the crystal clear water for our last night.

Day 7: Headed back to the road and followed it back to the Carretera Austral. Got a hitch in about 15 minutes all the way to Coyhaique but there is a bus stop there if you can time it right.

* '''2024-02-23 to 2024-02-27 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH03B + RR + OH08 / Maggie & Julian '''

Trail attractiveness: 4/5;
Difficulty: 3/5
(keep in mind that this is our first GPT hike)

Day 1: ‘GPT33H-03B start’ to (-46.2570, -72.3711):

We entered from Carretera Austral at Laguna Verde (Option 03B) after being dropped off by the morning bus from Coyhaique (heading to Cochrane). Arrived at the crossroads at 11:30am with Don Carlos bus.
Whole day was walking on roads and relatively easy to make distance.
At (-46.2671, -72.3561) there was a sign reading "se prohibe la entrada al predio" and a locked gate with a ladder to climb over the side. There is a campsite (Camp, X {33H} [32.0/700]) pinned shortly after, but we decided to keep going because of the sign. At (-46.2621, -72.3613) there is an end to the property (same sign facing opposite direction, no gate). We camped on an area used for chopping wood at (-46.2570, -72.3711). Short scramble down to the river.

Day 2: (-46.2570, -72.3711) to Camp {33H} [52.7/953]:

Large part of the day was also road walking, afterwards trails and some cross country.
Camped by Camp {33H} [52.7/953]. Camping around Puesto {33H} [53.0/946] has better mountain views, Puesto itself was being used, possibly for guided horseback trekking.

Day 3: Camp {33H} [52.7/953] to Pass {33H} [62.0/1314] and back:

We left our tent set up and most things at Camp. The way up was sometimes hard to find. Trail markers made more sense on the return. Had an extended lunch a little after Pass {33H} [62.0/1314] and then returned the way we had come.

Day 4: Camp {33H} [52.7/953] to Camp ? {33H-08} [11.6/548]:

Probably hardest day in navigation, trail disappeared often, but manageable.
The former landslide section at (-46.3853, -72.5520) did not pose any difficulties for us as the water level was not too high and the main river flow now goes near the northwestern side of the valley. We just had to step over the remaining side stream. With more water some fording might still be necessary, but I imagine you could get away with staying near the southeastern bank for this section.
At Camp ? {33H-08} [11.6/548] there is a puesto that seems to be in use, but we saw no one and camped a little lower near the river.

Day 5: Camp ? {33H-08} [11.6/548] to ‘GPT33H-08 start’:

Right after camp there was a makeshift bridge to cross the stream (tree and rope, very rickety).
Trail seemed to be used and maintained on this part of option 08.
Shortly before Camp {33H-08} [6.9/435] there was a previously washed-out section with a new path already laid out. In heavy rainfall this could wash out again but should not pose a big hindrance.

Notes:

- RR + option 08 is a great short alternative without much backtracking.

- Our hitch out of Puerto Murta happened to be local members of an association that wants to bring more tourism to their town and the Torres del Avellano. If their plans are fruitful, traffic and trail maintenance may increase on option 08.

- We organized the transport of our non-trekking items from Coyhaique to Puerto Río Tranquilo by encomienda. Ines, the lady working at the Sao Paulo bus office in Coyhaique terminal was kind enough to hold our boxes until we arrived and called her from Puerto Rio Tranquilo. Our things arrived the day after we called at around 1pm. We shipped a rather large quantity of items (enough items to fill 50L bag) for 12000 CLP. Sao Paulo bus Coyhaique telephone: +56 672 255 726

* '''30/01/2024 - 01/02/2024 / 3 days, 78 km / Options 06 and 07 / Alex + Andrey'''
South bound (east bound).
“Mountain route”,

a combination of Options 06 and 07 which are now passed and confirmed.

Difficulty: Difficult/Very Difficult

Most of the route is off-trail
Thanks to Jan for the suggested routes and clues.
Short resume:

This mountain route is a more difficult and demanding alternative to the regular route but can be an interesting option for those looking for a challenge.
The combination with a regular route allows to form a full-fledged “eight”, a trip of 6-10 days.

Option 07 is a shorter, although more difficult, alternative to the regular route in case the Avellano River cannot be forded NOBO.
Notes and recommendations.

Option 07:

All fords do not pose any significant difficulty.
Due to the height and southern exposure the areas between Pass 1 and Pass 2 (Pass {33H-07} [17.0/1755]) and descents from Pass 2 in the early to mid-season have extensive areas of snow where microspikes or crampons may be required.
The main difficulty on the descent is overcoming several side washouts, which are small but deep and steep canyons.

Option 06:

There is no water during the first 4-5 hours of ascent to the valley.
The open area of the upper valley at Camp 2 and beyond throughout the ridge is a resort for very strong winds. Setting up camp may be difficult or impossible. A strong hiker can combine and complete this section in one day.
The predominant wind exposure makes passage from west to east highly recommended.
The last reliable source of water is before reaching High Pass 3. Further east there is no water until the junction with the regular route, except for temporary streams from seasonal snow.

The track and additional information are here:
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/avellano-mountain-route-chilean-patagonia-160489118

* '''2024-Mar-04 to 2024-Mar-08 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 03B + RR + OH D + K / Joscha'''

Day 1: OH33H-03B + RR [24.2-41.2]

I tried to hitch from Villa Cerro Castillo to the start of OH33H-03B. After 1 hour a Bus arrived and took me to the start for 2000 Pesos. The Bus runs from Cohayique to Chile Chico on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. It starts in Coyhaique at 9 am and stopps in Villa Cerro Castillo at around 10:30 am. From the brigde at km 25.7 until km 35.8 there is no water on the RR. You walk close to some rivers but I didn't check if its possible to acces them. After km 35.8 there is plenty of water. At km 38.5 is a big flat field for camping with a creek next to it. I camped just before the crossing of the river at km 41.2.

Day 2: RR [41.2-58.3] + OH33H-D + RR [61.0-63.4]

There was plenty of water all along the trail. Camping possible at -46.291963, -72.470389 just before the Pass (km 44.4), at the start of OH33H-C and along the CC section from km 49.0 to 50.8. I can recommend OH33H-D. I especially liked the first Laguna. Camp 63.4 has awesome views, but is only slightly wind protected and the spots are only good for small tents.

Day 3: RR [63.4-93.2]

I stayed inside the riverbed for the last 2.5 km of the CC&BB section. I had to cross the river about 20 times, but its the fastest and easiest way. The ford at km 83.6 was just below my crotch (I am 191 cm) and the current was pretty strong at around 5 pm. It would have been difficult for smaller persons. All the other fords today were at max. knee hight. There is plenty of water all along the route. I camped next to the RR on a flat, grassy field at km 93.2.

Day 4: RR [93.2-116.3]

Plenty of water along this part of the RR.

Day 5: RR [116.3-119.6] + OH33H-K + RR [122.6-141.0]

OH33H-K is easy to walk but does not offer any great views. If you choose OH33H-K, than there is no water between km 117.5 and 138.5 (at km 135.2 is a water marker, but I didn't see any as I walked by. Maybe I missed it, because I wasn't looking for it). There is water at km 140.3. I got a hitch from km 141.0 to Puerto Ibanez. But there are very few cars on the road, so don't count on getting a hitch.

* '''2024-Feb-12 to 2024-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 03B, RR, Variant C, E, H, K / Tomáš & Natalie'''
There was a queue of three hitchhiker groups who did not get picked up while we were doing our shopping, so we opted to hire a taxi for 15000 to the start of 03B (Pedro Zuleta: +56 993 5786 68). Somehow, during our arranging of the taxi, all three groups left. Roadwalking to option 07 was uneventful. Tomáš got a hitch (he eats lunch too slowly so Natalie got ahead) for about 5 km from a family which was exploring in a car. About 500 m before the diversion to option 07, there is a locked gate with a sign saying the property is private, but one can go over a ladder. At the gate, we met a local with a key who has a house on Option 07, if we got him right. He gave us a ride of 500 m. The start of option 7 is actually a road.

The MR at 24.2 is in a bad shape due to erosion after ford at about 12 km in. Tomáš made a bridge out of a log but managed to jump into the water while doing it. Enjoy the bridge while it lasts as did a Frenchman we met there. He did the circuit NOBO based on Wikiloc. He said he keeps coming across GPT, but could not figure out how to get the GPS route. We told him to talk to Jan. Maybe he will come back the next season.

On the way to the Torres, we met 3 pairs of Chilean hikers going back. Tomáš went to Laguna La Plaza (option C). Lake is grey but the valley is nice enough to justify the short detour. It is no BB, there is a trail in the forest and above the tree line a vague trail or easy CC. The Torres are indeed magnificent. One can easily walk on the sloped polished slab falling into the far side of the second lake before the pass - it is an exhilirating detour. Going down from the pass, when the GPX turns right, Tomáš actually managed to walk over one of the ledges above the GPX and liked it. Just be extremely careful with moss and water, they can make the stones extremely slippery, but he survived that without falling. About 100 m before the lake, there is a at-least-a-ton heavy swing in the form of a loose boulder. Enjoy if you can find it. Camp 63.4 is literally awesome. We had a very warm almost windless night there.

After the boulder field under camp 63 we loss the rest of the elevation on the right side of the creek and then when the swamp appeared on the right we went to the left and stayed on that side (North) for the entire BB/CC. There is a vague trail most of the way, but is has many many logs over it. It took us 3 hours to walk to the trailhead. We kept our feet dry and were in the shade, but it would have been quicker and far less tiring just following the riverbed and constantly crossing the river.

Ford at 69.8 around noon was slightly above the knees. Ford it diagonally as the trail wants you to - it is shallower that way (ie a little further down than where the trail spits you out). Greeted grandfather, Maria and Julio and their three kids and had a short talk with the grandfather, nice to see the whole family working together on projects. From their place, the trail sort of is wide enough for a car (there is one at their place) but we think it is never or virtually never used by cars. Ford at 81.4 at six in the afternoon was 5 cm under our crotches (we are about 1.70), we forded about 100 upstream of GPX. The river was strong but we did not feel it was dangerous for us. We forded the widest part of the river just before a dead end fence (if you are coming from the other direction, after the grey river and around the dead end ford you will see the widest part of the river).The day was hot and despite not covering even 20 km, we felt superexhausted. Strong sun and spikees got to us!

We camped about 4 km along the road, shortly after the second (both jumpable) ford. It must be a good place to camp, as Tomáš, who went back to the big ford where he left his sandals the previous day, met a GPT hiker going NOBO who apparently slept in a hearing distance from us. The hiker first started to come to Patagonia decades ago, before it was overrun. Tomáš sadly never asked his name. Met the grandfather again, coming back from the port, horses are fast!

The road is not used by cars but stiĺl quite ugly. Around middle, near option 6, there are two shortcuts (400 and 50 metres) to the zigzags, three of which were marked by cairns by Tomáš. Please add the fourth cairn. Puesto 98.3 is a settler. He offered Natalie to come inside and rest but she didn't feel right stopping at that moment and kind of got the "heeby jeebies" from him. Met another pair of GPT hikers, doing just 33. The stretch along the coast is beautiful and very Mediterranean. All day the lake was without waves, even that can happen. Slept at Lake 113.8: nicer, with water and less buggy than camp 200 m earlier (just beware if the wind picks, up the waves can be very loud).

Variant K misses last water but is easy to follow, nicer than a road and involves only three very easy fence hops. Reached the bus stop for Puerto Ibanez around three. Got lucky and received a hitch from two British tourists to Puerto Ibanez. The shops there are larger than expected and stock overpriced pesto and gnocchi, Tomáš is almost as joyful as cherries make him!

Nat's Notes:

- For views I would prefer this NOBO. I suffered a new type of "look back" syndrom on most of the route. Plus, if you are walking the lake shore in the afternoon, the sun should be on your downhills and not your uphills (it was insanely hot when we did it and without a whisper of wind).

- In the section notes for km24-45 I think what was meant was that from roughly km36-45, "there are many small streams and camping spots", this is indeed true. However, between km 24-36 and option 3 there are NO longer many STREAMS to drink from, I remember only one slightly decent one and both sides of the road are fenced so if you want to camp or drink water from the main river, then you must jump the fences (cow panels or barb) or ask a settler. Also, strange to say, there is very little shade and can get uncomfortably hot...

- Intersection 45 is not hard to miss anymore, it is marked with an orange ribbon around a tree and a large cairn on your left.

- On Trail#9 (ascent before the first two alpine lakes) I took Veronicas advice about going into the woods where the RR is but rather than trying to follow the GPS, I followed what seemed to be a trail along the creek with some cairns here and there. Eventually it ends above the trees but you should be able to make your way back to the RR once the "coast is clear", ie. no more trees. If you want to walk along the lake then you should do the CC up the boulder field on Variant D.

- Going down from the pass was no problem, like everyone says, "just follow the gps". However with that said, it is very tempting to make your own way bcs there are many good looking ledge systems but after reading Wills experience, I backed away from the temptation and followed the GPS. I also slipped on some wet moss on RR.

- So much water everywhere except for the lake camping, if you are smart you will fill up on one of the many streams before getting to the lake...

- When doing the BB/CC section, after the initial elevation loss from the lake, there isn't much drinking water apart from the river until near the end of the BB. I think you could make "makeshift" camps. I was tempted to cross the river early to avoid crossing it at km69 but once again I remembered what Will wrote last year about the thorns and cliffs so I don't think that's a good idea.

- Not a fan of the lakeside gate locking technique (remember how it looks before you open it;)

- I surprisingly really enjoyed the lake stretch, it seemed it is where Pantagonia meets the Mediterranean/Arizona. The trail is in good shape, just a few overgrown roses and thorny bushes here and there (regretted shorts only a little bit). If you are coming from the north and still have your sand gaiters, this will be a good time to reuse them :). No exposure, wish there was more wind the day we were there. I am usually the biggest hater of "PUDs" - thanks for the new word - but these were not annoying. These PUDs are just a few large hills rather than a bunch of steep micro hills like gpt22 or the valley bottoms in Argentina. Water is at pretty much every "notch" in the hillside.

- Water is at the bottom of the MR~117.5 and there is still water at the top 119.9 RR (easier to grab it a little higher up).

* '''2024-Jan-30 to 2024-Feb-4 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Yannick & Nolwenn & Tess & Lukas'''

- Trail condition : gpx easy to follow / between km 63,7 and km 68,5 we mostly stayed on the left of the river
- Water : easy to find plenty of rivers and lagunas
- Camping spot : easy to find and the one at km 68.7 is nice // the refugio near the lake at km 98.5 is perfect - make fire, sleep inside, we even could ask for some bread
- Weather : some rainy and cloudy days but overall the weather was ok
- River crossing :at km 69.8 we crossed the river early in the morning and the current was strong and the water up to the middle of the thighs but manageable // at km 81,2 the river was strong and up to our hips, we crossed it in the rain, it was also manageable for us that already jave a little bit of experience
- Resupply : in Villa Cerro Castillo and in Chile Chico ( a bulk shop just opened in front of the camping Nandu) // at km 76,7 we could buy some bread, cheese and eggs at Maria and Julio's house
- Overall : we absolutely loved this section ! The views are spectacular and really diverse from one day to another // we got a hitchike at the end on the gravel road to go to Puerto Ibanez.

* '''01.27.2024 / 5 days / Hiking / SoBo / RR + Option 8 to Bahía Murta / Milton Cea + 4 more'''

Considering that we would venture to make this route a journey from Villa Cerro Castillo to Bahía Murta, we have decided to pay Pedro Zuleta, who is dedicated to transportation in the surrounding areas (+56 9 9357 8668), to take us to the entrance of the route at the registration booth. There, we encountered a pair of muleteers who did not pay much attention to our passing, however, we spoke with them to ask for their permission and inquire about the condition of the path.

We started with the regular route, a bit late, and for that reason, we camped the first night at Mallín Grande, which is a very good option, as watching the sunrise in this beautiful place is worthwhile.

Starting early the next day, we reached the "Los puestos" sector and from there, leaving our camp set up, we headed towards the towers. We were only able to reach the first lagoon at the base of the massif, as we went a bit late and our conversation with some other hikers we met extended. I would recommend leaving early to take advantage of the views from the portezuelo lookout.

The next day we began the crossing through the "Río Resbalón" Valley, as the locals call it, following an animal trail that sometimes tends to get lost among new vegetation or fallen trees, accompanied by other hikers who decided to join the journey.
It is a part of the route that can be slightly complex if you do not have a good reading of the surroundings, finding the animal traffic trail, and considering that you navigate through a forest that can easily disorient. This changes when you already walk with the "Resbalin/Resbalón" river to your right, as it is quite useful to follow its course. Always on the left side of the river.
On the way, there are some fallen trees and abandoned muleteer posts that can be used as camping space if necessary, although I would not recommend camping in this old forest.
Upon reaching the point of the road collapse, the crossing of the scree can be done at the level of its arrival, but to continue the route, you must climb a few meters up the mountain until you find the entrance to the continuation of the route. This point took some time from us, and we decided to camp near the river, towards the rock beach in the middle of a young forest with a mossy floor, very comfortable and restorative. We also decided to place some pircas at this point, as there was no mark to help resume the path towards Murta, since the difference in height was noticeable and it can be easy to believe that the path continues by the river side, but no, from here the path separates from the river and goes up the mountain.

Finally, after this last abandoned stretch, where the vegetation is abundant in some parts, we ended up arriving at the Puesto de Los Agüeros and decided to spend a night there, as we were very tired from constantly finding the route. It's worth mentioning that we couldn't find a GPS track before the trip.

The next day, after a night of intense rain, we took the official route traced from "Bahía Murta" at opossite direction and arrived in the town at dusk.
If you want the track and the Waypoints of the journey, feel free to write to me at '''milton.1902@gmail.com''' =)

* '''From 2023-01-20 to 2023-01-21 // 1,5 day // Hiking // NOBO // option 1 Valle Ibanez // Quentin Clavel'''

When I arrived in Puerto Ingeniero Ibàñez, I had to make a choice, as the weather window were pretty short. I had only 3 days and a half ahead of nice weather followed by one entire week of rain.

So I made the hard choice to skip Torres del Avelano, and go straight to Cerro Castillo by the OPT1 to explore the NP of CERRO CASTILLO.

This section was not so bad. Even if it was gravel road until the Lago tamango, I had nice views, and was not too bored from this stretch, but well yeah, it's gravel road for 30 km, so of course it was not all the time so funny aha !

Then I went to the small track along Lago tamango. Very quiet, pretty well marked thanks to these sticks with red and white colours on top, and with some scenic views.

You'll end up at the parking of the touristic sendero sitio archeologico de manos pintadas (Paredón de las Manos (1000CLP for children's, 2000CLP for adults. From Tuesday to Sunday 10h00-17h00). Then it's gravel road, following by 1,3 km on the carretera austral to reach Villa cerro castillo.

I was expecting worse for this section. Quite happy about it. That's a nice alternative if, for a reason, you want or have to skip Torres de Avelano

* '''2024-Jan- 14 to 2024-Jan-16/ 3 days/hiking/SOBO/ 33h/ 33h-b/33h-a/ 33h-P/Paulina'''

At first, I wanted to do RR, but as the recent reports about the river crossing where not very encouraging, I decided to play it safelty, so I just mixed some sections.
I started in Villa Cerro Castillo, till X 33h [ 5.5/554] it was a very peaceful, nice trail, with beautiful views on Cerra Castillo. There were some fence crossing, but not very annoying.
After the intersection, so once I joined the road X-725, it was less interesting, walk on a gravel road. I think this part of RR is better to hitch-hike ( it's possible and not very difficult to catch a car on this way).
Once I reached the big lakes ( beautiful views!) and some wanderful camping spots [ S 46.17790 W 072.32049] between Lago Alto and Lago Lapparet, I took 33h-b. At the beginning the trail was l crossing a forest used by locals as wood supply, but later ( around the place where it joined 33h-a), the landscape was amazing! Especially the part with lakes and settlers.

The last section was on 33h-01A. The cannion of Rio Claro and later the waterfall are beautiful, but for some hikers a long distance on gravel road on this section can be annoying so it's probably better to hitch-hike ( not a lot of cars but still possible).

I bought my ticket for ferry from Puerto Ibanez to Chile Chico without any problem 1h30 before the ferry departure.

The mix of these 4 sections + hitch-hiking it's a good option for bad weather or high river level on RR. Some parts are very beautiful, and the less interesting parts ( long distances on gravel roads) it's possible to cover by car.

* '''2024-01-02 to 2024-01-07 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Options: 03, 03B, 04C, 04 & Variant E / Roman'''

Route: Hitchhiked along Option 03 to X {33H-03} [18.6/315]. Hiked via Option 03B to X {33H} [24.2/462] and than continued RR to Ford, X {33H} [71.8/602]. Here used Variant E and back to RR all the way to Settler {33H} [85.0/462] (Luis Diaz). Continued on Option 04C to X {33H-04} [73.9/559]. From here used option 04 all to way to Bahía Murta.

Decided to go SoBo to get the tricky parts done with a good weather forecast. Hitchhiked along Option 03 because it's easier to get a lift. Was at X {33H-03} [18.6/315] 12:35 PM. From there it's a super easy to hike street all the way to X {33H} [45.5/1088] via Option 03C and than 03. Sadly there where no cars going in the correct direction. Towards the end (last 5km) there are some rivers crossing the street, nothing bad, you can get over them dry feet if jumping on the rocks. Continued the RR, the trail is clearly visible and easy to hike all the way to Camp {33H} [52.7/953]. Arrived there at 09:30 PM. It's a awsome place to pitch a tent! It was absolutely woth it to go for such a long day. Met 2 locals who went with a truck all the way to this point: -46.26754, -72.419667. Met also Cy & GG (see GPT 23). We continued the next day. Trail was in a good condition and CC was easy no snow up to the pass Pass {33H} [62.0/1314]. Absolutely beautiful view! There is some snow on the south side on the way down. It's mostly melted to you can decide if you want the first 150-200m of elevation go down in snow or trough the boulders. It was a sunny day therefore quite easy to get down to the lake. From there we went down a boulder field to the BB (Bush bashing) section (400m). This is trivial - no macheta required. It's just walking trough the forest. From there the CC&BB is at the beginning easy. We found a animal trail on the southern side of the river. Than the swamp started which was annoying. We started, after finishing the swamp section, to walk in the river bed around here -46.438037, -72.469247 which was fast progress but wet feet. Jumped on the trail and camped at Camp Without Water {33H} [68.7/766]. There is a lot of water at the river and it's just a 10 minute walk so we filled the bottles. The Camp is good, stayed there with 3 tents. Continued the next day (it was moderate rain during the night and at the morning) to the X, Ford {33H} [69.8/634]. This was at the limit what is safely possible. Fast flowing river - hip deep (iam 180). From there on the trail was clearly visible and easy to hike fast. Continued the RR and did Variant E. Check you GPS, we didn’t intend to do it we just followed the most clearly visible trail and ended up at the Puesto {33H-E} [0.8/619] so we continued. The statement from above is still valid all the way to Settler {33H} [85.0/462] (Luis Diaz) for the RR ;). After that is a easy trail, at Settler {33H} [76.7/535] (Maria & Julio) I met Julio and they had a car there to the trail from this point on is even easier. I split up here with Cy & GG because of different plans and it was questionable if the Ford at Ford {33H} [81.2/490] (Rio Avellano) is even possible so I wanted to speed up. Reached the point around 05:00 PM. It was not possible to Ford - way to deep and to much current! So I used my packraft and crossed the river. Got in the water here: -46.456627, -72.320677 and followed than the RR. Ford {33H} [81.4/492] was also impossible by foot. Used the same tactic and crossed it by boat. Got in the water here: -46.453523, -72.316373 and crossed by boat. After that easy trail and continued the RR. Ford {33H} [83.6/467] (Rio Avellano) was also absolutely impossible so also did it by boat. After that I camped here: -46.463767, -72.26597.

interim conclusion: if the weather is not stable (I knew it wasn't [would reccomend checking with meteoblue] go SoBo and be aware that the crossing can be impossible - I would reccomend bringing you packraft so you habe more options even though it's the H route. Otherwise you have to wait, potentially for days or you need the help of a local (this is how Cy & GG managed it).

Next day continued 04C. The trail to the pass is clearly visible and beautiful to hike. From there it's hard to find a few times because of a lot of animal tracks. Follow the GPS. The trail is again visible from this point on: -46.486009, -72.212428. Trail condition generally good with some bushes hanging in the trail. Reached X {33H-04} [73.9/559]. Same here a lot if animal trail - follow the GPS. The trail is clearly visible from this point on: -46.49591, -72.205307 up to Bahía Murta. Condition is good. The Pass {33H-04} [71.5/958] is definetly a highlight. Camped at Camp {33H-04} [66.2/209] - great place. Next day was long no changes on the trail condition - good and easy - hiked to Ford, Camp {33H-04} [37.5/259]. Camping there is a bit tricky to find a good place but manageable. Met a guy at the gosttown Puerto Cristal. The trail is according to him also used by tourists groups. I asked before the trial if there is a ferry connection - there is none only one company goes there by boat for tourist. Maybe you can arrange a transfer ( https://turismopuertocristal.cl/ very fast response time via WhatsApp 10 minutes). The Pass {33H-04} [43.3/840] is also a highlight. The Ford, Camp {33H-04} [37.5/259] is challenging hip deep. After that it's easy road walk to Bahía Murta. Got a lift at -46.520007, -72.636049.

Overall: I would recommend SoBo because the difficult sections are at the beginning and weather dependent. Go if you have a few stable non rainy days. Bring you packraft to have more options for fording. The entry via Option 03 & 03B is in my opinion easy due to hitchhiking & ou find a grop and book a lift The views are amazing at the passes. The BB is trivial. BB&CC is annoying but done within 2 hours. The Option 4 is absolutely beautiful and if you are a bit luckier than me avoids a lot of road walking. Would definitely reccomend the section. The reason for me to go with Option 04 is to easy connect to 82P.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-12-22 / 3 days / RR / SOBO / Anh'''

Just a quick info: The first part of RR is not marked but very easy to hike. After the pass (km 62) I had a hard time with the 2km CC. At first the snowfields were very steep (60 slope). The snow thickness was only 20-80cm, underneath are very big steep boulders and the melting snow makes the hollows big. Then there are the streams under the snowfields. I was a few times with a foot in it, fortunately not whole body. I had to go up and down in the forest, on the edge, on the rocks... My goal was to be safe, it took me 2 hours to cover the 2km.

==Season 2022/23==
* '''2023-Mar-30 to 2023-Mar-31 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 1 / Martin & Helena'''

We started from Villa Cerro Castillo around 11 AM and took ferry from the port the next day at noon. The former RR trail follows path of Sendero de Chile, and starting with no expectations we were quite impressed with what it offers, especially all the amazing views of Cerro Castillo. It's definitely a good short alternative to the Torres del Avellano detour that we were forced to skip. Trail is easy to follow and you can find many camp spots along the way. There are many small shops in Puerto Ibáñez. Knowing the ferry schedule we went directly to the port where were just a few others in this time of the year.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''26/02/2023 - 02/03/2023 / RR SOBO with emergency exit on a boat on Lago General Carrera / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''

Day 1 - From Lago Verde - 15.5km - +700m/-300m We first hitchiked from Villa Cerro Castillo to Lago Verde on the Carretera Austral. We hiked then the gravel road until the camp next to the free check in point, in the forest.

Day 2 - Laguna La Plazza - 16.5km - +800m/-500m We kept going on the minor road before the well maintained horse trail. We took option to the Laguna La Plazza and we camped there but the weather was quite bad with a lot of wind. Would recommend to camp in the pasture down there in these conditions.

Day 3 - Lagunas before the pass - 17km - +1000m/-900m The trail was still very easy to follow this day. A bit of cross country at the end but nothing difficult as there are kerns. There is a spot to pitch tents next to the second lake, between it and the waypoint "camp" (that we didn't find btw). Very nice there and without the clouds, the view should be incredible.

Day 4 - CC until diversion @km69.8 - 14km - +500m/-1100m The troubles began for us this day. Noé injured his knee just after the pass. With Rémi, we alternated carrying his bag in addition to ours. That's why we hadn't moved a lot. The bush bashing is demanding and under the rain, fording is a real challenge. I would recommend you to be south of the Rio after the diversion/ford. We camped on the north side, a few hundred meters after the div.

Day 5 - Lago General Carrera - 30km - +700m/-1000m As we were a bit late, we decided to walk directly to the lake. We forded the Rio in order to be south of it and we found the horse trail, it was easier then ! We crossed the Rio a last time @km81.2, still manageable with the rain but a bit hard (water until the hips, we are 1m80 tall) with a strong current. Then, the minor road. We didn't leave it until the lake. A bit of ups and downs but the road is nice so it is fast. Here, at the lake. There is mobile coverage and so we contacted numeros given on the PDF on WhatsApp to find a boat to bring us back to civilisation. With the third bag to carry, it was too hard for us to keep hiking. I let you the contact of Jairo, that can bring you back to Puerto Tranquilo... for 400.000 CLP... we didn't had the choice as the settler living just in front of the lake wasn’t there. Jairo : +56 9 6633 9507 He transported us the next day.

* '''2023-Feb-21-27 / NOBO / RR + Option 3B / Ondrej and Bara / Puerto Ibanez - Vila Cerro Castillo / 6.5 days'''

Gorgerous section. Unfortunately, we were struck by bad weather mid-way which took out the joy and brought a few very difficult moments for us.

We went NOBO and on the 3rd day camped in the valley close to Maria & Julio (76.7 km). It started raining early morning and while the rain stopped around midday, it was enough to turn streams into rivers and cross country paths into swamps. We were unable to ford the river at km 69.8 at two different places. To continue, we decided to make a risky choice and bush-bash upstream on the other side of the river, hoping to ford it in an upper section and rejoin the trail. This eventually worked out. We forded the river at -46.43642, -72.45456 and rejoined the trail. This 1.2km diversion took us about 2 hours. Bush-bashing through forest was okay but in the middle of the diversion we struggled through 300m of thorny bushes which took forever to get across.

From around 1000m of altitude, we had fresh snow on the slopes. This made the boulder field more challenging than we wanted (fortunately still manageable). We crossed the exposed pass at km62.0 and continued on the other side, firstly through snow and then again through muddy cross country parts until we joined the trailhead at km 57.0. Afterwards the trail was easy all the way until the end.

We also met Anna and Christopher going the opposite direction - really great to meet fellow hikers!

* '''2023-Feb-20-24 / NOBO / RR shortend on the road sections / Zohar / Road to Levicán - Carterra Austeral / 5 days'''

I tried to shorten the section because of the upcoming bad weather, which hit on the last day, but I was lucky to catch a ride out with a family that came to collect wood from their land.

I arrived on Monday to pureto Ibañez spoke with the van to levicán that left at 17.40 to Levicán got off on the way where the rout leave the main road and walked till the shore of Lago General Carrera. Day 2 I followed the horse trail along the lake, which was very visible and easy to follow. Then, I followed a miner till I found a stable campsite. Day 3 was the hardest. I was determined to sleep at the base of the torres, so I had a lot of trail to cover, and the route was hard to follow, but the direction was clear. Day 4 started with a beautiful sun rise on the clear torres de avellano. The bolder field wasn't as hard as I itentenly thought, but be careful. After the pass, I met 4 young hikers going to the torres and back. Day 5 was wet, but at least on a minor road and about 9 km before the road, I was picked up and taken to Villa Cerro Castillo.

I don't advise doing the section in 5 days thay where long, big days, and it is better to enjoy the surroundings. if the weather was better, I would have taken 7 days. This section is beautiful and highly recommended

* '''20.02. - 24.02.23 / Anna & Christopher / SOBO, Villa Cerro Castillo - Puerto Ibáñez'''

In the afternoon we started hitchhiking the Carretera Austral to where Option 3B starts. There were lots of people trying to hitchhike directly from Villa Cerro Castillo, so we figuered to have a better chance if we walk further up the Carretera Austral. We soon got lucky. That day we walked the dirtroad until km 4.4 and camped there next to a small stream.

The next day was mostly easy walking on dirtroads until the crossing at km 45.5 (which is relatively easy to miss!). We camped at km 49 at the edge of the forest.

The next day the weather turned bad once we reached the section with all the boulders on the ascent to the pass. We did some unnecessary climbing by not sticking to the main route. When descending we lost the main route again and briefly tried to descend without it, which we soon realised is a bad idea, so we climbed back up to where we lost it. We spent the night at the camp at km 63.4.

The next morning we woke up with a clear blue sky and finally saw the Torres del Avellano. Really amazing rock formations. The following bushbashing part seemed ok to us, we had worse ones on the GPT so far ;). First we walked on to the right of the river following a good animal path. Once it ended we changed to the left side and stayed there. About 2/3 of the route is a realtively good path and the rest was some easy BB and climbing over fallen trees. Luckily the ford at km 69.8 was easy to cross. We took variant E from where on the trail was in a great condition and we could walk pretty fast. The river crossing at km 81.1 was more demanding and went almost up to Annas hips (1,63m). We camped soon after that at approx. km 81.5.

We continued on variant H the easy trail on the dirtroad until the lake, where it gets more demanding (we underestimated the continous ups and downs). The views are amazing though. It gets pretty windy next to the lake. We camped at a tiny spot at km 109.3 next to a small stream.

On the final day we walked to the bus station (6 pm) and took the ferry to Chile Chico the same day (8 pm). This section was great :)

* '''11-18 February 2023 / Maks&Gabi / SOBO / RR, 33H-E, 33H-H ( hichhiking from km136 to Puerto Ibanez)'''

We started from Villa Cerro Castillo. If you can, try not to skip the first part of road walking. It's beautiful with the view over Lagunas and Cerro Castillo. The terrain is also different than in later parts of the section.

There are some problems - lot of fences and gates on the first 5 km. Then many aggressive dogs and limited access to water (steep descents and fences around the lakes). The camping spots, marked on track files, can be hard to access (private properties with new fences). We camped by the bridge around 25km (the bridge is not marked).

We than waited half a day for the rain to stop. The rest of the road is also well maintained with occasional river crossing (all easy).

The next trail part (until km 57) is mostly visible. Some problem can occur by the CC part, especially during heavy rain - it was all floded. We weren't exactly expecting it, but it was snowing and the temperature during the night was about -4. Next day we waited until 11 am to dry our stuff, as the sun finally came out.

As Veronica wrote, when going up to the pass try to follow the cairns (33H-D). The part between the lakes and the pass is quite easy.

Going down from the pass we followed the GPS and we found it quite manageable (actually for us it seemed to be much easier going SOBO than NOBO at that point, even though it was slippery and with a lot of small streams going down the rock). We reached the camp at km 63.4 at 4 pm. First 400 m of BB is easy as the forest is not overgrown. It's getting worse in the valley. If possible try to be close to the river. We were fording it multiple times. Finally we stayed at the left side of the river, bushbashing for the next 3 km (that's where the trail starts). We slept next to the ford at km 69.8.

We forded the river in the morning. It's possible, but the current was strong (for us it was the worst ford on this section with water above our knees - I'm 175 cm). After the next ford we followed 33H-E as we couldn't find the entrance to the RR. It's a very well maintained path with a big puesto nearby.

After fords at km 81 we followed 33H-H as we didn't want to cross the river anymore. For those of you, who are planning to go there during the next few days, be carefull - somewhere around km 91 there is a fresh dead cow near to the water.

The lake part's quite exhausting. We were blessed with sunny and windless weather so we found it astonishing and not so dangerous. We started our last day at camp km 113.8 . Ascent on the road (117.5) is ok and there was water on km 119.9 (small stream). The rest of the road walking is easy (with occasional fences) but there's no water on km 135.2 (water on 129.3 is hard to access).

We hitchhiked from km 136 to Puerto Ibanez. During the weekend there is only one ferry a day (Saturday morning and Sunday evening).

* '''8 to 13 of February 2023 / Will / SOBO from Laguna Verde / 6 data'''

This one was an ordeal for me, I don't recommend starting with a week straight of rain in the forecast. At first I appreciated the ambiance after six completely dry weeks in the north, but after a few days it started to get me down. Thankfully to keep my morale up I encountered some kind settlers, a few pairs of GPT hikers, and some sun in the final stretch.

The rains never got too heavy, generally off and on light rain. The temperatures were fairly cold from the nearly constant cloud cover.

To start out I hitched out of Villa Cerro Castillo to Laguna Verde, teaming up with some of the many hitchhikers. The initial road walk was beautiful, some podcasts helped me power through the rest.

The pass was tough in the rain, but manageable. Things were slippery but there's enough to grab onto in the boulder fields to keep you stable, as long as you're focused and moving slowly. The ascent was nice boulder field the whole way, on the decent things looked scarier. Instead of boulders there was a lot of large smooth slab with water flowing down. The gpx route there was good, following boulders and vegetation around the slab. Things only felt dangerous once, when I went slightly off the track and ended up trapped between a cliff and a water slide. After some scary experimentation I found that I could get good traction on the waterslide using a crab walk technique, on my back with hands and feet and butt all resting on the slab. This let me traverse the waterslide back to safety.

The little bush bashing section after the pass was easy, I camped in there. Things got bad again once I got back out to the river and the cross country+bush bashing marker. My feet got worryingly numb after a bunch of river crossings and marshland traversal, I tried to stick to the woods after that.

I then took two big questionable detours from the tracks, staying to the south of the rio avellano and avoiding crossing it all the way until I reached the lake. I'll quickly describe them here but they were both uncomfortable and not worth it unless the river is impassable. The cold and rain seem to damage my decision making quite a bit, I refused to backtrack or to take breaks to think things through.

To skip the crossing at 69.8 I stayed in the woods south of the river starting at around km 67.5. Initially nice cow path, followed by a tricky wooded boulder field, followed by a horrific stretch crawling over thorny bushes. Eventually I made my way up to the base of some cliffs where things got a bit easier. Following the cliffs I reached a cow path, leading to some open woods through which I rejoined the trail around km 70.5. Never thought I'd be so happy to find cow poop.

I dropped a blue and black stone bracelet somewhere before or during the 71.8 river crossing, let me know if you come across it!

Some of the minor streams merging into the river were tough to cross. 71.8 was up to my thighs with a strong current.

To skip the first major crossing of the Rio Avellano at 81.2 I followed some horse trail to the big white rock hill, and climbed to the top. The rock was super grippy even in the rain. I then traversed along the slope to the east, staying between an elevation of 700 and 750m. There was some cow path making it easier to walk, I wonder how they get up there. A few tough bushy sections descending and climbing out of crevasses/streams before I got to a gradual stream at -46.46385, -72.30601 which I scrambled down to the river.

I ran into the settlers Luis and Jaqueline at their house by the river. They generously took me in for the night and gave me a chance to dry out some of my stuff.

From there I followed option 4C down to the lake, hoping that the river crossing there would be less scary with the river fanned out wider. The option was decent trail over some low passes to the lake, though at times it was hard to follow. It's tough to choose where to cross the river because you can't see the bottom through the silt. I decided to cross near the gpx line where it was wide with lots of debris and sand bars to rest in between the channels. At the worst points it was crotch deep and powerful, the rocks under my feet sliding back from the force. Pretty scary.

I camped in the willow grove by campo chico, and the next day (Monday) I raced to the bus stop at 130.4. It turns out that the bus is now at 6pm, I got there just in time. I took the bus to Puerto Ibáñez and got straight on the 8pm ferry to Chile Chico.

A small cut on my ankle ended up getting infected, I'm now in town out of commission with a ton of swelling. Should have been more careful!

* '''Feb 12 Direct Route SOBO 1 day Frank'''

I walked straight from Villa Cerro Castillo to Puerto Ibanez in one long day. A few KM out on a dirt road there is a museum on your left & a short trail on the right which goes to some rock paintings. You pass by a lake with good views of Cerro Castillo. Salto Rio Ibanez waterfall is impressive.

*Helen and Craig + (Caro and Ali)
5th-10th February NoBo<- only direction to do it! So pretty!

almost got stung by the ferry from Chile chico. Make sure when you go to the office as the online booking doesn't seen to be working, that you specify your a foot passenger. And if they refuse ask to be put on the waiting list for the next ferry (which means you'll get on just fine) pretty sure you could probably just turn up and ask very nicely and they would let you across. Looked in to the boats from Carlos and Pascual to join 33 missing the coast section from levican but Carlos is not in the area at the moment and Pascuals boat is currently non functional, sad times but the coastal section I would have been sad to miss!

-Decided to do Torres del avellano northbound. Highly recommend doing it this way and thankyou to the others who pointed out this point before us. Veiws were great and much easier to get over the bolder scramble going up.

-We walked in a group of 4 so payed for a transfere to levican and a pick up from lago lapparent. 60,000 each time.
-Phone signal from Puerto del avellano to levican
-The river valleys of avellano and venti were incredibly beautiful to the south.
-Route was better marked and easier to navigate than exsepted. Very Easy going apart from km 68.7-62. if you've done GPT 40 or 37, then you'll find 33 delightfully a breeze. (We did have good weather, in bad weather even just a little rain I imagine a very diffence and worse exsperience)
-In the BB/CC river valley of Rio avellano walk on the north shore of the river rather than going to the south. The forest is mostly easily passable or can hop out to the river valley to walk more freely. The south side of the river is calf/ knee high swampy bush bashing which leads to very cold feet and frustration.
-keep eyes peeled for humels! We spotted a male humel on the bushbash/cross country section and had the most amazing sighting!

* '''22 to 26 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT33H RR SOBO / via GPT33H-03B / 4.5 days'''

Route: Villa Cerro Castillo - Laguna Verde (Río Alto valley) - Upper Río Avellano valley - Torres del Avellano viewpoint - Lower Río Avellano valley - Lago General Carrera - Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez

Simply beautiful section. Lots of excellent info is written about it in the Hiker's Manuel too. I only met 4 other hikers, with two of them being northbounding GPT hikers! Great to meet you, Yannic and Mirjam :)

From Villa Cerro Castillo I hitched easily on the Carretera Austral to Laguna Verde, where Option 3B begins. I wanted to cut some of the initial road walking because poor weather was incoming the next day and I wanted to try and beat it to have a chance at seeing the Torres. The road walk in the Río Alto valley was actually quite pleasant and scenic. There is a little self-registration booth across the road from the settler at km 30.8, where hikers are asked to "check in" before proceeding down the private road towards the Río Avellano valley. There is no charge.

The camp at 52.7 km is very nice with a little stream running through, lots of dead wood around to make a fire, and relatively sheltered. There is an old puesto/refuge there too that is open and has a fireplace. Could be a good spot to hole up if the weather is bad.

When you diverge from the Río Avellano valley to head up the pass, don't try and follow the GPS. Instead take the path of least resistance (or the path that looks the clearest) through the woods and across the rocks near the river. There are occasional cairns to mark the way too, although not always obvious to spot. Only the last cross-country section before the pass did I follow closely with the GPS, as it goes across a boulder field and the GPS line seemed to be the easiest way up to the pass.

On the south side of the pass is where you finally see the Torres del Avellano proper. Absolutely incredible, and I managed to get the great views only a couple of hours before the rain started and clouds engulfed everything.

I followed the GPS track closely going down through the granite boulder field, since it guided a safe way around the steeper cliffs. It was slow going down through the boulders, but it didn't feel unsafe as the rocks were grippy and solid.

The initial "bushbashing" segment at km 63.9 was very easy through a mature forest. I didn't follow the GPS here, just followed an old animal trail alongside a creek until it joined with Río Ventisquero. Again, the CC&BB section starting at km 64.4 was quite easy at first. I forded the river multiple times to walk along whichever side looked easier/less swampy. About midway through this section though it got tougher because Río Ventisquero got silty and the flow increased, so that I didn't want to ford it much anymore, so I stuck to the left (north) side of the river, mostly in the forest. There were some areas of unavoidable blowdowns and marshy terrain, and everything was wet from the rain coming down too.

When I reached the waypoint X, Ford at 69.8 km, I camped there for the night because Río Ventisquero was a torrent and looked unsafe to ford. There are a few nice, flat places to pitch a tent in this area, under large mature trees. Early the next morning, it was very cold and still raining, and I couldn't tell if the river had gone down at all or not. There was fresh snow higher on the mountaintops. I ended up fording the river slightly downstream from where the trail crosses it, and the water came up just below my hips (I'm 165 cm). The water is silty so you can't see the bottom, but the rocks underneath had surprisingly good traction, which I was grateful for because the current was strong.

It might be better to take Option 33H-E than the regular route. That trail looked well-maintained and clear, whereas the RR between 71.8 and 73.5 km was hard to follow and overgrown at times. There were no signs of life at the homestead of Maria and Julio when I passed through.

I was strategic when I forded Río Avellano at km 81.2, crossing multiple branches at their shallowest points. The water went midway up my thighs at the deepest point. Afterwards though I didn't want to cross it two more times, so I took Option 33H-H which stayed north of the river.

The refugio at km 98.5+0.2 on the shore of Lago General Carrera is nice and clean. There is a woodstove and some tables and chairs. It was crazy windy when I got there though, and I can't reccomend it as a good place to camp unless you sleep inside the refuge — the wind gusts were coming from all directions and there wasn't a spot that was sheltered outdoors. Further along the path at Campo Chico, there is a grove of mature willow trees that is probably a much better camp spot.

Very beautiful hiking along Lago General Carrera, but it was wildly windy for me that day. At times it was hard to stay on the trail due to the strong gusts trying to blow me off the path. Lots of water sources.

RH-MR&CC-V {33H} [19.5/118.0+4.6] is all minor road, no cross-country involved at all. I met the settler at km 121.8, he kindly let me pass through his property (and many gates) no problem.

I got to the minor road from Levican (waypoint at 130.4) at 7:40 a.m. on a Thursday. There is a little bus shelter there to protect from the wind. It was very cold and windy when I got there, and I waited until almost noon, hoping to hitch a ride. Not a single car passed by that whole time. So I resigned myself to the road walk, walked for about an hour in extremely windy conditions, and then a car finally came by and picked me up and drove me into Puerto Ibáñez :) Very grateful!!!

* '''2023 Jan / Yannic & Mirjam / Northbound'''

From Puerto Ibanez we made the first kilometres to junction 130.4 by car stop. Then we hiked on to Camp 113.4. We didn't stay at the location, but a little further ahead where the river flows into the lake. Along the lake was nice with a lot of ups and downs and then we camped somewhere on the side of the Minor Road. Along the Rio Avellano we stayed on the northern side so that we only had to cross the river once (at 81.2). The water came up to my waist (I am 180 cm). Surprisingly, there was another Ford at 69.8. Again, very strong current and loose ground, so it was difficult to find a good footing. Right after this Ford we spent the night in the forest.

On the climb at the start of the cross country section (at trailhead 68.5) be sure to get the right entry point as there are several small streams coming down the valley. We thought we saw a trail further into the forest that we could follow. Unfortunately, this was a mistake and led to us having to bush bash back onto the trail for a few hundred metres. In general, the trail was mostly better close to the river than deeper in the forest. The camping spot at the Torres was incredible and worth getting up for sunrise. The climb up the pass was very doable with the GPS tracks and not too difficult. On the other side of the pass, the trail got surprisingly good. We met a group of horses that were probably trekking to the lakes. Because the weather got worse, we took option 03 on the Carretera Austral and stopped at Ceroo Castillo.

*GPT section 33 7 days, 84 miles, 14K ft ascent Dec. 21 to 27, 2022 David and Erika NOBO

Ferry from Chili Chico runs just once a week (Mondays at 8:00 am) we missed it by hours and were stuck at the hotel California in Chili Chico for a day. “You can enter any time you like but you can never leave” got to be the feeling after residential bus after residential bus filled with residents and would not take us. Eventually got to Sierra Castillo and then hitched to Puerto Inginiero Ibanez. The tourist office there got her husband to give us a lift further 24 km to the end of the road. Well worth the 25,000 pesos. Road hike from there straightforward but new gates are being installed at the last road (NOBO) before you hit Lago General Carrera. Lots of wind. Last Refugio on the lake is legitimate. Good place to camp. Lower Rio Avellano was fordable. We thought we could avoid the 2nd and 3rd ford by taking the path over the hill. Don’t. It doesn’t go…Don’t worry, it gets worse. Ultimately, you’ll be hiking through the river all the way to Torres de Avellano. Note on that. The route takes you up to the lake. Beautiful, but then you go through a 2 km boulder field. We found the start of a trial before exiting the river that seems to lead right up to the pass. Might go, we don’t know. Instead, we took the boulder route, broke through a snow bridge, and put a deep gauge in Erika’s leg. Could have used stiches but had no sutures. Might be worth investigating.

*'''2022 Nov, NoBo, Option 1, Alice and Florian'''

We chose to do the option 1 taking the sendero de chile from Puerto Ibañez to Cerro castillo. Most of it is a trail road (first 25km, and the last 4) so it is quite tiring for the knees as some point. But it seems quite easy to do hitchhiking at least on the first 25 km if needed. Nevertheless it is quite a nice road. You first arrive to a very nice waterfall after 5km, them walk through a canyon with nice scenic views. The 10km pass through a forest trail near lakes, it is really nice as well.

* '''2022 Nov / GPT33H Option 11 and Parts of Regular Route / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

GPT33H/GPT34P: Northern coast of Lago General Carrera from Puerto Sanchez to Levican (packrafting and hiking)

From 2022-Nov-20 to 2022-Nov-24 we (Meylin Ubilla, Jan Dudeck) packrafted and hiked in 5 days from Puerto Sanchez to Levican along the northern coast of Lago General Carrera.

This lake is infamous for the frequent strong gusty wind, therefore packrafting requires a careful monitoring of the weather to depart only onto the lake when a period with calmer conditions is approaching. Luckily, there is reasonable good mobile phone coverage what facilities checking the weather and wind forecast frequently.

Given the wind conditions any packrafting attempt on Lago General Carrera requires to my opinion:

- decked packraft, a longer tandem is strongly preferable (faster, more stable) - a sail (to get quicker to an exit point) - packrafting experience in the region (to anticipate typical weather and wind patterns) - smartphone with entel SIM card or entel rooming - YR weather App, Windy weather App

The predominant wind is eastbound therefore only eastbound packrafting is advisable.

I’m left with the impression that wind gets generally stonger towards the east (towards Levican and Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez) and that calm periods are more frequent and longer towards the west (Puerto Tranquilo, Puerto Sanchez).

Also, calmer conditions are more likely in the early morning just after sunrise but strong wind all night is also common.

During a previous hike in February 2020 we experienced an entire summer day with barely any wind but such days are as frequent as unicorns and no travel plan should be build on exceptional favorable circumstances.

There is a trail along the northern shore but due to the steep coast there are sections of up to 13 km on the lake without a connection from the shoreline to this trail.

Emergency exits are more frequent along the coast but using such an exit means waiting for the wind to calm down what can take days. Therefore it is generally favorable to exit the water only in a location from where the trail can be reached easily.

We packrafted most of the distance from Puerto Sanchez to the Avellano river delta on 3 mornings in about 9 hours on the water but from there we hiked in two days to Levican because we had no similar promising calm weather windows in following early mornings. In hindsight the wind remained manageable in the morning hours till about noon but there was no point in reversing our decision to hike (and we urgently needed some exercise to get used to hike with heavy backpacks again).

Crossing from Puerto Tranquilo to Puerto Sanchez is reasonable feasible by packraft in calm weather (typically either very early in the morning or later in the evening). The crossing is 3 km wide and best started 1 km north of Puerto Tranquilo in a hidden bay with a nice protected spot to pitch a tent (46.6146°S / 72.6838°W · 210 m). If preparing the packraft at the beach of Puerto Tranquilo officials may stop packrafters as there are numerous restrictions and requirements applicable (in example accompanying motor boat with two licensed boat drivers).

Packrafters should depart in north-eastern direction to compensate for a south-eastern wind drift in case wind increases.

A very nice protected camp site is approximately 8 km from the recommended exit point near Puerto Tranquilo.

GPT33H: Bus Levican - Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez

The last 26 km from Levican to Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez are rather dull road walking. Therefore hikers that arrive at the right day and time can take the subsidized bus.

Monday and Friday only: 08:00 Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez -> Levican 09:00 Levican -> Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez 18:00 Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez -> Levican 19:00 Levican -> Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez Price: 1000 CLP

Transport at other times can be arranged for a substantially higher cost (estimated 40‘000 to 60‘000 CLP per vehicle).

Paty: +56 9 9506 3176

Luis: +56 9 8648 4075

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022 Feb: 10-14, SoBo, RR, Kris&Stiina'''

Even though the first few days out of town is a road walk, the first part of it is actually really scenic and worth walking, the lakes are just very beautiful one the way. The second part was mostly in the forest and our feet, knees and hips were already hurting from all the road walking but once we got on trail it got better right away. The trail was surprisingly well maintained I would even say better than in Cerro Castillo National Park. Another unexpected surprise was the amount of people that we met on the trail a total of about 25 people in different size groups were hiking to see Torres de Avellano. We really didn’t expect that, there also seemed to be some sort of backpack hauling and guiding service that the local arrieros were offering. We unfortunately didn’t manage to talk to them to find out, but it seems that the place is getting popular. Which is not a surprise because it’s very very beautiful there, probably is correct what the manual says, that it’s going to be the next Torres del Paine, time will tell.

On day 3 about 2-3km before the pass the trail disappeared and the going got tougher and tougher, mostly just bolder hopping up and over the pass. The descent was pretty steep on large granite slabs which offered plenty of good grip but I am not sure how well would it work in wet conditions. I think the pass is doable in not good weather conditions but only if one feels very confident in own abilities on wet rocks. Also it’s a good idea to follow the gps on the way down because otherwise you end up on a cliff edge and have to track back up. The ground finally eases up once you enter the forest, but then starts the bushwhacky part all the way until ford/div at 69,7km.

That was as far as we could make it that day because the river was pretty fast in the evening. So we decided to camp right there and cross it in the morning when the flow would be a bit more manageable and our decision payed off. In the morning the river was about 10cm lower than the evening before, so if you ar a shorter person it could save you. The flow was pretty strong and water was still about hips deep. Both of us crossed it together by standing in a line, me in front and Stiina supporting me from behind, it worked great. After that it was easy cruising for the next 32km, however we had to cross that river once again at 81,2km. It was still challenging but we managed to do it the traditional way one by one, facing upstream. But the current was still very strong and pushing our feet out from under us, challenging our balance. After that we didn’t want to cross it two more times as gps suggested so we just stayed on the left coast all the way to the lake. There were some cow trails to follow and also to bypass the cliffs it was no problem.

The lake is really beautiful with all the islands and it wasn’t too windy when we arrived. We camped about a kilometer from Campo Chico on the rocky stream bed and managed to cook on the fire that night without causing fire hazard. And there were apple, pear and plum trees at the 98,3km, plums were very ripe but the apples and pears still need a week or two to get ready, but it was a very nice treat nevertheless.

Next day was Monday which meant that we could avoid the 26km road walk at the end of the section which we were determined to do. We had 30km to goto get to the road junction were the bus is passing by and according to the manual the bus would pass there some time after 20:00 which is when it starts from Levican. So we pushed the whole day over the steep, sandy, bushy terrain and made it to the junction by 19:00, great, we thought. But after bus didn’t show up we called the phone nr that Janna & Matthias had provided and it turned out that the bus actually leaves Levican at 18:00 and is long gone. But the bus driver was nice enough to offer us a ride to Puerto Ibañez, however for a hefty 45.000 pesos. We were out of food, out of water and pretty spent from getting ourselves there so we accepted the offer. The car ride showed that it would be a pretty dull road walk aswell if we would have had to do it so in the end it all worked out and we got to town just as we wanted.

The town was a bit disappointing, people were somehow not very helpful and also all accommodations were full, but we managed to camp at Las Cabañitas about a km out of town. The next day we went to the port to catch the ferry to Chile Chico, but due to strong winds all ferries were canceled and nobody could even give us a guess of when the ferries would restart. We didn’t want to spend another day in Puerto Ibañez so we hitched back to Villa Cerro Castillo in hopes to get bus or a hitch around the lake. There are definitely daily buses to Cochrane.

In the end our plans changed and we decided that we are content with our experience on GPT this season, so we left it at that. Thanks for kicking our butts GPT and showing us beauty we haven’t seen before! :)

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* '''GPT 33H Option 4 (Puerto Cristal)/ Torres de Avellano/ Packrafting Route / 2022 Feb-4 / 7 days / Tobias Schorcht and Jonas Grünewald'''

I started Packrafting from Puerto Tranquilo to Puerto Sanches in the calm morning hours. Since Jonas doesn‘t have a Packraft, we booked a full Marvel Caves Tour by boat for him and asked the Captain, to leave him in Puerto Sanches, which was possible without any extra paying. We hiked northbounded along Lago Vidal Gormez and visited the left behind abandoned village Puerto Cristal. It was an impressive experience to see the old facilities of the Mining Company! The good visible trail is partly overgrown with spiky bushes and contains a lot of altitude. We have been rewarded with stunning views on the Lago General Carrera and recommend this option anyway. We went up to the Torres with good weather knowing, that some wind and rain have been predicted for the night. It took us many hours to cross the valley (-46,43300, -72,48867) because we mainly followed the “cow-trails” through the forest and wetland (as an alternative to walk up the river). We reached the camp (-46,42178, -72,50672) late and sheltered the spot with rocks against the wind. You are welcome to use our cozy spot free of charge 😉. Took the trail from the Torres down to Cerro Castillo without difficulties.

We have to say, that this part of the GPT was challenging but absolutely worth the struggle.

Disfrutas las cosas 🙏

* '''NoBo, January 2022, 6.5 days, Participants: Janna & Matthias'''

Day 1: We took the ferry from Chile Chico to Puerto Ibañez (ferry schedule online).There still runs a government-subsidised bus (+56 9 89448847) between Puerto Ibañez and Levicàn on Mondays and Fridays at 8am & 5pm (summer). We decided to spend the afternoon rain relaxing at the pizzeria in Puerto Ibañez and then catch the bus. We called and found out that the bus stop is now in front of the Supermercado Jelvez. The driver let us off at Div 130.4/311 at about 6pm ($1000 per person cash) and we hiked for another hour or so. At bridge 129.3/304 you cannot get water (a kind of gorge), maybe at the marked "Water?" about 15min downstream. We had enough with us and camped sheltered from the wind between the monoculture trees (S 46.377764 W 71.922459).

Day 2: We continued through / over many gates and past empty houses down to the water. Attention if NoBo: at gate 122.6/628 there are two gates - the GPT splits behind the left one, so take that one. The first water before the lake and two good camps at the lake are marked. The path along Lago Carrera was easy to find, sandy and rough in places but we could follow old riders' tracks. We really enjoyed the fantastic view over the lake and had a tábano-free time thanks to the strong wind. About 2 km before Campo Chico (S 46.478295 W 72.086034) we found a west wind-protected and very nice camping spot.

Day 3: Further camping possibilities would be as already described on wikiexplora at Campo Chico and at Puerto Avellano. Along the lake there are streams/rivers for drinking water every 1-2h. There is a wild apple tree on the trail here: S 46.487073 W 72.102247 in case you come by at the right time of year. After Puerto Avellano there is about 15km of a former mine road that is easy to follow. We had a wonderful view of the mountains the whole day. The first two Fords are easy to pass with little water. Water sources again every 1-2h. Our camp 3 was here: S 46.457910 W 72.299412 - beautiful, next to the water, sheltered from the wind.

Day 4: Ford-day - in total we forded rivers more than 20 times, all of them were easy to knee deep except Río Avellano at 81.2/490 which reached almost to our hips and required a lot of effort. We met and chatted with settler Maria who was on her way to have some work done. At Div/Ford 69.7/634 the mountain peaks remained hidden in the clouds and the weather forecast was not so sparkling why we opted for the bypass (option 2) which is also very nice to walk with imposing mountain massifs on both sides, enchanted fairytale forests, a waterfall and easy-to-find cow tracks. Only the large swamp around S 46.386387 W 72.422623 was very unpleasant and foul-smelling, about shin deep. It may be worth looking for a path along the water there. Camp 4: S 46.371434 W 72.432519, quiet and nice under curious observation of two horses on the other side of the river.

Day5: At Div 54.5/841 we checked the weather again but as it still looked bad and everything in the valley further up was already in fog we finally decided against the Torres. At this Div there was an unmarked Ford when coming from option 2. If NoBo hiking directly after this Div take the path higher up the hill and not the marked route directly along the water, because the latter is slipped and to climb. At Puesto 53.0/946 (if NoBo) do not go through the gate but continue on the east side. A Horse Trail runs along the eastern edge of Mallin Grande. Our Camp 5 was here: S 46.281253 W 72.436128.

Day 6: Continued on the gravel road, passing many settlers and pastures. The Estero Alto flows much lower than the road, there is water at Bridge 25.7/454 and otherwise only at the lakes. There is a fence almost everywhere to the left and right of the road. To get to Camp 16.9+0.3/598 you have to climb over a locked gate (S 46.178222 W 72.312583). The two buildings in the pasture are a ruin (S 46.182635 W 72.311414) and a stable (S 46.183119 W 72.310509).

Day 7: Continued along the gravel road we almost missed Div 5.5/554 where a sandy path continues. The path is blocked by a wire fence at S 46.143124 W 72.184071 but a little further to the right you can slip through. No problems to get to Villa Cerro Castillo

==Season 2020/21==

* '''February 2021 from Bahía Murta to Torres del Avellano to Carretera Austral / Northbound, 5 days. Valle Resfalín/Resfalón (Option 8) + Mirador Torres del Avellano + Regular Hike + Escape to Carretera Austral (Option 3B) + Hitchhiking to Villa Cerro Castillo'''

Day 1: Bahia Murta to Camp #5 (Camp ? @33H-08-#005) / 11.5 km / 6 hours

The hike started at Bahía Murta, on a steep hillside. We used the GPS tracks to find the path, and from there on it’s pretty easy to follow the path (when in doubt, we checked the GPS). It’s a very nice hike, and at the end of the day it’s necessary to cross the river. We both had trekking sandals, which came in handy every time we had to cross a river. Just after the river there is a camp option. We found a nice spot on the other side of the wooden fence, but there are many more options up the small hill. It was a perfect place for sleeping, with the soothing sound of the river.

Day 2: Camp #5 (Camp ? @33H-08-#005) to Regular Route at Mallín Quemado (Camp ? @33H-08-#010) / 11.7 km / 8 hours

This was one of the longest days for us, mainly because we underestimated how much time it takes to walk through a path that’s been reclaimed by nature. The day started with a steep uphill, where we lost the path for a while and then had to check the GPS to find it again. There are streams on the way where it’s possible to refill the water bottles. About a third way in, at (-46.38537, -72.55201), the path collapsed, probably washed out by the river. We took a look around and decided it was way safer to cross the river than to continue on the collapsed path (it was late February, so the river was not so full). We crossed to the other side, and 100m ahead crossed back. This is definitively the trickiest part of the day (although a bit farther ahead we found ourselves in the middle of a caterpillar forest...not really pleasant). Just after the crossing the are two camp sites (Camp ? @33H-08-#008 and Camp ? @33H-08-#009), but we would recommend keep going as the second part of the day is definitively easier than the first. Farther ahead we found two more camp site options: at (-46.36768, -72.53116) on this side of the river and at (-46.36722, -72.53088) on the other side of the river. We considered sleeping there, because we were exhausted, but in the end we decided to keep going as we still had some hours of daylight left. This was the right choice, because that way we could sleep at Mallín Quemado and then the next day do the day trip to Torres del Avellano. Mallín Quemado is the name the locals use for the big forest area that was “burned” by the ashes of Volcan Hudson. It’s near (Puesto @33H-53.0) and it’s a perfect place for sleeping. We decided to boil the water from the small stream, because there were some cattle grazing around.

Day 3: Camp #10 (Camp ? @33H-08-#010) to Mirador Laguna y Torres del Avellano and back to Camp #10 / 7.1 km (each way) / 3 hours (each way)

We started early and with a lot of motivation to go and see the Torres del Avellano. Sadly the day was a bit cloudy, but nonetheless it was totally worth it: the views from up there are breathtaking! A lot of glaciers and superstreams with the purest water you can ask for. When we arrived back at the camp, we met the first person in 3 days: Francisco, a teacher from Puerto Aysen. He came up the other way, from Villa Cerro Castillo, and was planning on going to Torres del Avellano on the next day, and then head back to Villa Cerro Castillo.

Day 4: Camp #10 (Camp ? @33H-08-#010) to Camp at (-46.26244, -72.35118) / 21.6 km / 8 hours

Another long day, but without any difficult parts. This section of the hike is way more popular than Valle Resfalín/Resfalón, so the path is way easier to follow. The first section, until the car road, is really beautiful. We even saw some (semi) wild horses! We knew that once the car road started there wouldn’t be so many camp site options, so we kept our eyes open. The car road goes through a narrow valley, and then comes a steep down hill. At the bottom of the hill, on the left side, there is a small meadow, where it’s possible to pitch a tent (-46.26244, 72.35118). Water is available 100m down a steep hill.

Day 5: Camp at (-46.26244, -72.35118) to Carretera Austral / 14.8 km / 4 hours

Following the main car road to Carretera Austral it’s impossible to get lost. We didn’t find any stream on the way, but in case of needing water there are many houses. Just be sure to ask nicely :) Once on the Carretera Austral we hitchhiked to Villa Cerro Castillo. We only had to wait for 30 minutes to get a ride, and considering that we did this during covid times...not too bad. We also had the backup plan of Francisco, who would be driving to Villa Cerro Castillo later that day. Funny enough, we ran into Francisco by chance in Villa Cerro Castillo and he invited us to an ice cream. It was a nice way of ending the trip.

We are extremely grateful to Jan and all the people from wikiexplora for making this adventure possible!

==Season 2019/20==

*'''Section 33: RR(New!) from Ibáñez. Exit via Option 8 to Bahía Murta.'''
Westbound. 11 days. Party (3): Mum, Sis and I.

Ibáñez y Península Levican: Continuing our extended stay in Chile we caught a government subsidised bus from Cerró Castillo to Ibáñez where we learnt after a somewhat lengthy process: talking to the ticket office, boat personnel and then the carabineros (an officer and then his jefe!), everyone passing the buck; that without a certificado de salud (not available in town, and only online) we couldn't board the vessel. The upside was that the Naviera Austral had fantastic baños (yes! they were open!) and the cleaning lady let us have a quick body wash and even do a little laundry before she had to close up. There was also limited WiFi connectivity (only WhatsApp would work) and powerpoints where we could charge our things. It also happens that we bumped into a Zulema Amoroz who was born in Fachinal, most likely a relative of Carloz Amoros who offers the boat service from Fachinal across the lake (we contacted him but no boats were allowed on the lake). If you hang around near where the ferry docks you might find her selling coffee and alfajores.

We quickly decided to walk the new Section 33 Jan recently published, but end in Bahía Murta instead (i.e. explore option 8). Some effort was exhausted trying to organise a lift out to Península Levican. We did find someone for $30k, (it seemed a little steep but that's roughly what to expect), but it wouldn't be till the following day and we needed to get out of town to spend the night. We stocked up on food and started out on foot on the old RR (now Option 1) camping before we reached Río Ibáñez.

I had a little concern about water on the way to Levican, but there are two or three good streams along the way: (-46.31022, -71.97272) (-46.32470, -71.96457) (-46.34091, -71.94069)

In Puerto Ray a lady (also named Zulema!) warmed up to us and let us camp in her fruit orchard. In the morning we bought some eggs and 'bread' from them. Her husband was tanning a chivo hide; he had such a jolly step!

Along Lago General Carrera: We went back to the junction (Div Levican @33H-131.4) where a good emergency shelter exists. The road is still very clear from here, but don't expect any traffic. I think it was a rare sight that we saw an old Mercedes truck full of wood lumbering (pun intended ;) out. The rd deviates a little from the track files maybe due to the pine plantations. There are many new rds., so take care you don't go the wrong way. Taking the RR you will pass through a locked gate (-46.38234, -71.96692), after this keep an eye out for a gate on the left. It's not in the track files and we didn't look for it, so maybe it's not there. The issue we had was that the road continues up the hill, deviating from the RR around (-46.38448, -71.97642). Here you should already be on the small road on the other side of the fence (someone traveling towards Levican/Ibáñez will find this easier to scope I imagine). Though it's not recommended to cross fences, we carefully crossed instead of heading back. A very minor Rd continues down to a dilapidated puesto and a couple of portóns. The road didn't seem to continue as indicated in the track files... but I wasn't following my gps. We CCed across a field until we encountered another road that led back to the RR.

You will finally encounter your first reliable water source since Levican (-46.40196, -71.97831), especially if you are heading towards Ibáñez, make sure you fill up here!

The two camps in the track files at km117 and km114 were the best we saw. The next obvious choice would be around Campo Chico I think, quite a bit further along. Plenty of water along the lake and we had plenty of apples seeing we were walking so late in the walking season. Amazing autumn colours! The track is also in good shape, someone had very recently 'cleaned' the way! The refugio at Los Álamos was a very welcome sight, a great place to spend a night (it's there because of the high winds possible on the lake). The nearby settler was resonably friendly and his dog Puestero even more so! He told us that it was him who 'cleaned' the track along Lago General. It made our walking so much easier! Thanks Armando!

Valle Avellano y Ventisquiero: The old mining road through Valle Avellano was easy to follow. The road actually continues significantly further than indicated in the track files. Taking Variation F to avoid extra crossings of the river we found the road ended about here: (-46.45730, -72.30207). There is an unmarked ford here: (-46.46107, -72.24636)

We took Variation D and just caught Maria and Julio before they headed out with their kids on a horse ride. We bought some bread from them. They called it a tortilla, but I think my Mexican friends would strongly argue the point ;)

Easy walking up into Valle Ventisquiero. Read Jan's track notes. They are quite thorough. The trail to remeet Río Avellano is a little unused (also as mentioned in his write up), but easy to follow. Some good camping before the river. We met some gouchos using the puesto, they were not overly friendly; I think a little scared because of the virus. They pointed out a nearby shelter we could use made from a very old technique using U-shaped logs (I met a carpenter in Murta who told me a little about it).

Option 8: Valle Resbalín/Resfalón(?): It was snowing in the morning. We decided to take Option 8 to Bahía Murta. This meant less road walking and involved a part marked as 'I' (investigation) which would be nice to document. It appears that this route down Valle Resbalín (or "Resfalón" as some locals in Murta told me it was named... anyone know?) is no longer used; quite overgrown, vague and in places difficult to detect at all. Sometimes all we could see was the occasional chainsawed log; and in some chutes: machete marks. Water was plentiful. There was a very old but partially functional puesto en route.

There is a junction ('div') here: (-46.37495, -72.53695). The trail heading up the side valley actually looked quite distinct. I'm not sure what it's name is, or what's up there, but the water was a nice glacier blue and it had a higher flow than the 'main' named river.

The only tricky spot to find the track was where it was washed away by the river, about here: (-46.38527, -72.55201). I cut steps in the bank, crossed, and dropped a rope down for the others. It would be much safer to walk in the river. We explored options to bypass via skirting around in the bosque, but they didn't seem practical. The nearby camp site marked in the track files (Camp ? @33H-08-#008) is not really good. Better to camp 200m upstream If camping around here. We camped at the confluence with Estero Sur, which is the best spot to camp we saw in the entire valley. From this point down the valley, the track is in use: plenty of fresh signs of cattle (maybe they graze in the side valleys?). Ford Estero Sur (-46.39815, -72.58224) and follow the track down the valley with ease. There is camping at (Camp ? @33H-08-#004) but better 300m down the valley near a corral. 50m down valley of (Camp ? @33H-08-#002) camping is possible next to the vague ruins of an old puesto. Further down the valley are several grassy areas good for camping, the most obvious is here (-46.43778, -72.65597) in the vicinity of the old puesto. The track (as opposed to Rd) continues much further than indicated in the track files. The road only starts about here (-46.44697, -72.66655) once you are nearly in Murta. We rested a full day in Murta and I happened to run into Felepé who we'd meet before the trip in Cerró Castillo. Loco!

Thanks Jan for making this trip possible, Tobias Hellwig for recommending the reroute, and all the people on wikiexplora who explored and documented the tracks.

If anyone has any information on the history of Valle Resbalín/Resfalón(?), the mining prospectors in Valle Avellano, or the settlers that abandoned the coast of Lago General Carrera, I'd love to read a bit.

I hope this helps someone. Thanks!

Oh! and we're back in Cochrane now and planning to be in Coyhaique in a week or so. Cheers.

* '''BE AWARE THAT THE BELOW LOGS refer to Option 1 and not to the new Regular Route:'''
Until 2019 the Regular Route followed the Sendero de Chile in the vicinity of Rio Ibañez what is now Option 1. Tobias Hellwig suggested to reroute the GPT via the Torres de Avellano to incorporate this hidden treasure. This proposed new route was investigated and documented in February 2020 by the founders of the GPT. By this time multiple segments of this new route were already published on Wikiexplora by other authors. Only the route from Kilometer 62.2 to 69.9 remained undocumented and had to be researched and ground-proved.

* '''10 Mar 2020 / RH SOBO / Ty / 1 day'''

Super easy in general. I was able to get a hitch for like the last 10 kilometers. There’s a lot of different trail you can wander off on at the start of the sendero de Chile, so just be aware of your navigation at the start. The only good easily accessible water I found was between the two lakes before the intersection where you start walking the road. The ferry to Chile Chico leaves around 8 and takes a couple hours. Otherwise the next ferry leaves at 11 am....but make sure to confirm these times yourself. When arriving in Chile Chico, I climbed up to the viewpoint/mirador close to the ferry landing and found a place protected on the wind and slept on the ground. There is also an abandoned house marked in I-overlander that has an area in a room big enough for a 2 person tent. It’s on your right just before the climb up to the mirador.

* '''Jan 2020 / RH Northbound / Matthieu / 2 days'''

No technical difficulties on this part. However, I was stopped, when the GPT leave the road to go between the two lakes, by a sign : área protegida, ingreso no permitido. For me, it was cristal clear, so I just continued the road, disappointed. I spoke to one of the settler not far, who told me that it was only for cars and it s ok for walkers, and that it is part of the "Sendero de Chile". So the way seems open finally. Anyway, there is another little path just before the lago Ardillas that goes north, and join the GPS tracks above the Valley Ibanez. Well maintained, in the hills, lots of cows, good experience.

* '''2019 Jan/ Olrik / Northbound'''

From Ibanez you walk on a dirt road to the entrance of a Reserva Natural. You are on the Sendero de Chile so it is well marked. In the reserva the trail is easy to follow and there was no one. You end up in Cerro Castillo. We did it in 2.5 days but could be done in 1 day if beginning early.

* '''2019-Nov-28/ Lea Geibel/ 1 day / Northbound / Regular Hiking Route (Puerto Ibañez to Villa Cerro Castillo)'''

After arriving with the ferry at 10.30 a.m., the section can be hiked in one day (around 8 hours of walking). Most of the section is on a dirt road with very little traffic. The part that is following a trail is marked with posts with red / white rings on them. Occasionally the trail is not very visible but numerous animals tracks are usually heading in the right direction before eventually meeting up with a trail marker again.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*2025 / Michael & Kasia:
If entering or exiting via Opt 8 or Opt 4, Bahía Murta (Puerto Murta) has several places that rent cabañas or camping space. There are at least 5 shops in town. The two largest both had tall skinny gas recharge canisters (Minimercado Gemaniar 3.000, Minimercado Estribo 4.000), but no screw type for backpacking stoves. Minimarket Gemaniar across from the tourist information office had generally the best prices and a good selection. The panadería across from the plaza had good pan amasado.

*Section GPT33H starts in Villa Cerro Castillo and terminates in Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez (Resupply information see GPT34H). Hikers that continue southbound may also resupply in Chile Chico after the ferry crossing of Lago General Carrera (Resupply information see GPT35).

*Several shops sell food and camping gas canisters.

*Restaurants offer filling meals.

*Accommodation is provided by hostels, cabañas and camp sites in these towns.

*Hikers that walk GPT33H and its adjacent sections with continuous footsteps can resupply in Cerro Castillo, Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez and Chile Chico and do not need to leave the route to resupply.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*There is no plannable resupply along the entire Regular Route but some food may be obtained at the two homestead farms on the route.

[Settler (Maria & Julio) @33H-76.9]: Maria and Julio are one of the few settlers that still make cheese for sale in such a remote location. If you are short on foot you might also ask if they may sell some bread, milk or meat.

[Settler (Luis Diaz) @33H-85.2]: Luis : When passing his home consider a visit. You may also ask if he has bread or meat to sell.

[Puesto @33H-98.5]: The puesto 250 m north of Puerto Avellano is rarely occupied by their owners but the fruit trees might provide some well desired vitamins in summer and early autumn.

=Transport to and from Route=

*2025 / MiaimZelt
Subsidized bus between Puerto Ibañez and Levican every Monday & Friday: Ibañez/levican 8:15 & 17:00, Levican/ibañez 9:00 & 18:00.
Transportes Freddy Morales (+56 9 9506 2906)

*2023 / Maks&Gabi
We hitchhiked from km 136 near Levican to Puerto Ibanez. During the weekend there is only one ferry a day (Saturday morning and Sunday evening).

*2023 / Louis, Rémi & Noé :
Here, at the lake. There is mobile coverage and so we contacted numerus given on the PDF on WhatsApp to find a boat to bring us back to civilisation. I let you the contact of Jairo, that can bring you back to Puerto Tranquilo... for 400.000 CLP.. Jairo : +56 9 6633 9507

*Most buses to Villa Cerro Castillo leave Coyhaique in the morning around 08:00 and pass Villa Cerro Castillo approximately 1:30 hours later. In the opposite direction buses pass Cerro Castillo in the early afternoon.

*Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez has regular public transportation to Coyhaique (1:45 hour by bus) and Chile Chico (2:15 hour by ferry). The ferry over Lago General Carrera that connects Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez with Chile Chico does two round trips each day, one in the morning and one the evening. Buses to and from Coyhaique operate synchronized to these ferries.
Best Call Buses Alejandro: +56 9 7652 9546

*Subsidized bus from Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez to Levicán: Monday and Friday, Approx. 1’000 CLP Morning round trip: Leaving Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez at 08:00, arriving in Levican around 09:00 and returning immediately to Ibañez around 09:00 and arriving at Ibanez around 10:00. Evening round trip: Leaving Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez at 17:00, arriving in Levican around 18:00 and returning to Ibañez at 18:00 arriving at Ibanez at 19:00.

*Private transport from Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez to Levicán: Anytime, Approx. 35´000 CLP
Try to call Luis: +56 9 8648 4075

*Combining GPT35 with GPT33H

Northbound hikers may consider connecting GPT35 directly with GPT33H by exiting Parque Patagonia towards Fachinal and crossing Lago General Carrera by motorboat from Fachinal to the Desembocadura Rio Avellano. Here Lago General Carrera is only 3.5 km wide and a motorboat crossing does not take more than 20 minutes. Unfortunately, in summer this requires some patience as the normally strong wind often impedes this. In the morning or the evening the wind occasionally calms down but rarely during the day.

Carlos Amoroz, a settler in Fachinal owns a motorboat and offers this service on request. Pascual Diaz, a tour operator from Mallin Grande, can also provide this service but he must first haul his motorboat the 42 km on trailer from Mallin Grande to Fachinal what makes his service substantially more expensive.

Settler with motorboat in Fachinal (Location: -46.5568°S / -72.2120°W) Name: Carlos Amoroz Mobile: +56-9-76267029 Price: Approx. 30’000 CLP for 2 persons

Tour operator with motorboat in Mallin Grande Name: Pascual Diaz (Company: “Kalem Patagonia”) Mobile: +56-9-7391 7881 Price: Presumably more expensive and advance notice required

This section combination of GPT35 with GPT33H seems more practical in northbound direction as hikers can first talk directly to the settler with the motorboat in Fachinal, resupply in Chile Chico (by taking a motorized transport from Fachinal to Chile Chico and back) and then cross Lago General Carrera with a refilled backpack. While waiting for the wind to calm down hikers can pitch their tent at a nice wind protected camp site on the shore of Lago General Carrera.

Thanks to the reasonably good mobile phone coverage in Fachinal hikers can check the weather and wind forecast and call the settler with the motorboat when approaching Fachinal. This permits hikers to anticipate or discard a motorboat crossing on arrival.

Hikers that attempt a more complicated southbound crossing of Lago General Carrera should make arrangements with the settler with the motorboat at least one or two weeks before arriving at Puerto Avellano, test communication devices (i.e. InReach to mobile phone), agree on the precise pick-up location (Puerto Avellano or Desembocadura Rio Avellano) and carry enough food to wait some time in Puerto Avellano. Hikers should be prepared that the wind may not calm down while waiting several days in Puerto Avellano. In this case the motorboat transfer should canceled, and the hiker should walk out to Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez before the food reserves deplete. There is mobile phone coverage at Puerto Avellano (entel if I recall correctly).

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*To my knowledge paddling on Lago General Carrera requires a permit from the Armada de Chile but complying with all requirements might not be possible even for a well equipped packrafter (i.e. distress signal rockets).

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT33H - Puerto Ibañez]]

Retired Section Article [[GPT33H - Torres del Avellano]]

For additional information see the Wikiexplora Articles:

[[Península de Levican - El Avellano]]

[[Torres del Avellano]]

[[Laguna La Plaza]]

For more information see the Wikiexplora Article:

[[Puerto Cristal]]

For more information see the Wikiexplora Articles:

[[Valle Miller]]

[[Estero Jaramillo]]

A part of this route is described in the Wikiexplora Article:

[[Mirador Este de las Torres de Avellano]]

=Images=

GPT33H (Torres de Avellano)

2025-03-07T17:42:30Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
The GPT manual has an extensive description of this route and all its options.

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025-FEB-28 to 2025-MAR-01 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH (var. A, 01A, 01) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

We chose variants A, 01A and 01, so it was easy section which leads mainly on a paved road. There is a nice view of Cerro Castillo on the beginning and a waterfall of Rio Ibáñez [148.4/212] was also worth it.

From the point X [1.3/328] to the point X [5.5/554] we ascent on the minor road. The rest of this section is on the paved road.

CHALLENGES: Monotonous walk on the paved road.

BIVOUACING: There is a fence along the road most of the time, but it's possible to find some quiet places on the pastures. We spent the only night here:

WATER: Water from the nearby lakes, eventually from Rio Ibáñez. There are almost no small streams close to the road.

RESUPPLY: There is a well stocked store in the center of Villa Cerro Castillo, called 'Janito'. Close to there is a stylish foodtruck made of two old buses.
There are more opportunities in Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez (at least 2 stores and even more restaurants).

'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-23 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 3B, RR, variant C,H, / Thijmen Scholten'''</span

* I started hitchiking from Cerro Castillo, but barely any cars passed and Around 10.00 de bus came
* Took option 3 and first day is only road walking , the first part untill the last settler (30.8) is really really really boring ! Hitching did not work. You can get a taxi from Cero de Castillo's it will cost 70.000 pesos.
* Water: On option 3 and the road walks of the RR there is not much water. For the rest water is no problem
* Camping : Many camp places everywhere.
* Option C the Laguna is nice
* I camped at crosspoint to the Laguna (option C), nice place but many dead trees and branches so lookout where you put your tent when it's windy
* Around km 49 I followed the Osmo trail trough the forest instead of the presumely swampy grassland trail (it rained all night)
* It rained all day and also next day so I opted to take option 8 instead. But I am very glad I did continue on the RR because the view on the other side of the pass is beautiful!
* Scrambling down from the pass was ok even in the rain. Just be sure to follow the gpx carefully ! Otherwise you will end up at a ledge
* The camp site at the lake is very wind exposed my tent blew away. Decided to pack it again and camp down in the beautiful forest.
* As for the bushbash part. I followed the right side of the river (looking downstream). There was a trail which I lost often but easy to walk. Even saw campfire traces so probably it's used more often. I don't know if it's easier than the right side. But the BB/CC part took me less than 2 hours this side.
* The first official fjord (69.8) was already above my waist and very difficult (crossed it diagonal as supposed). It rained all night so probably the river is not only affected by glacial melt but also by rain alot.
* Talked to Roberto (he lives around km 80) and he confirmed the river was high due to the rain. He adviced me to cross at his house where the river has 3 arms. I did that and the crossing was just doable the water was untill my waist.
* Roberto also offered me to cross with his horse if it was impossible on foot.
* Took variant H to avoid crossing 2 more times
* The road walk has not alot of nice camping places. Found 1 grassy patch with water around 5km before the lake.
* When the hiking trail next to the lake starts , just go straight to the beach otherwise you have to bushbash.
* The trail next to the lake is sometimes covered by vegetation I break some branches to make a way. Is everyone does this (or with Macheti) the trail will stay walkable (look out for thorns).
* There is internet (Entel) from around halfway the trail.
* I Camped at the end of the trail (km 117.6) close to the lake, there is little stream there as well.
* Road walk to Ibanez is very very very boring as well.
* At water source 135.3 the creek is very small but there is a black hose laying around at the left side of the road which you can use to fill your bottle.
* After 3 hours the first car passed and I got a hitch to town.

25-02-19-25-02-23 / 4 days (interrupted)/ SOBO / OH 03B-RR/ Volker
Patagonia at its best (and its worst)

Day 0: After gpt32 and resupply in Villa Cerro Castillo too many people hitchhiking on the Carreterra, so I called Pedro Zuleta (+56 993 5786), who drove me for 20k to the start of 03B in the late afternoon. Walked until the pass at S 46.198129° W 72.357921° and camped there (nice place, but very windy).
Day 1: Light rain all the day long. Because of the weather I decided not to take the mountain route (OH07) and continued on the RR (though technically a MR, blocked for cars by fallen trees) and feels like a trail), one non-indicated (very easy) ford. With the rain getting heavier and only few feasible camp spots along the way, early camp at S 46.280118° W 72.435213°. Heavy rain all the night long.
Day 2: The day started with a non-indicated ford 50m behind my camp spot. All further river crossings (including the indicated ford at 52,0: dry feet, broken trees serving as a bridge). Weather better than forecasted, the light rain ceased during the morning and by noon the sun came out. Instead of following the track file and crossing the swampy meadow CC, I stayed on the left side, where a trail leads along the edge of the forest (not without stepping out on the meadow for the scenic view on Cerro los Pumas, which now came out of the clouds). A river bank at the end of the meadow allowed me to dry my tent and cook the warm meal I had skipped the evening before. After the puesto steep down and on the RR very nice along the river. After the steep ascent to the upper valley, though indicated as CC, the trail continues, partly along the river, partly more to the right, avoiding swamps. In the rocky parts, it‘s marked with cairns. My plan was to reach the indicated camp at 63,4, however a storm with hurricane-like blasts made the scrambling across rocks and broken trees very dangerous. Even in easy terrain I could hardly stand it. With a suicidal ford (one blast during the fording: game over) and 2km through wind-exposed rocky terrain ahead I found a flat spot in a wood at S 46.391614° W 72.494383°. Impossible to raise a tent without the protection of the dense wood! And it has to be a wood with young trees (many branches and even some trunks broke that night in forests with older and higher trees). Take this into account, when thinking about OH07 (and read the comments by Alexey, who opened up this route).
Day 3: Though the storm had subsided and the ford was doable, given the overall situation (3km of BB/CC, several fords, bad weather, possibly another storm in the afternoon and 90km ahead with a shortage of food, if slowed down too much by the conditions) I decided to walk back. Rain made the trail very swampy and slippery, 3 creeks, that I crossed dry feet the day before, now to be forded. Camped at the same spot as the day before.
Day 4: Rain the whole night long, not ceasing in the morning. I was very lucky: just arrived at the settler, where the MR gets passable for cars, when the same driver, who drove me to the start of 03B 4 days before, dropped 3 Chileans there (he had offered to drive me there for 70k) and gave me a free ride back to Villa CC.

* '''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-23 / 4,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 3B, RR, variant C,H, / Thijmen Scholten'''</span

* I started hitchiking from Cerro Castillo, but barely any cars passed and Around 10.00 de bus came
* Took option 3 and first day is only road walking , the first part untill the last settler (30.8) is really really really boring ! Hitching did not work. You can get a taxi from Cero de Castillo's it will cost 70.000 pesos.
* Water: On option 3 and the road walks of the RR there is not much water. For the rest water is no problem
* Camping : Many camp places everywhere.
* Option C the Laguna is nice
* I camped at crosspoint to the Laguna (option C), nice place but many dead trees and branches so lookout where you put your tent when it's windy
* Around km 49 I followed the Osmo trail trough the forest instead of the presumely swampy grassland trail (it rained all night)
* It rained all day and also next day so I opted to take option 8 instead. But I am very glad I did continue on the RR because the view on the other side of the pass is beautiful!
* Scrambling down from the pass was ok even in the rain. Just be sure to follow the gpx carefully ! Otherwise you will end up at a ledge
* The camp site at the lake is very wind exposed my tent blew away. Decided to pack it again and camp down in the beautiful forest.
* As for the bushbash part. I followed the right side of the river (looking downstream). There was a trail which I lost often but easy to walk. Even saw campfire traces so probably it's used more often. I don't know if it's easier than the right side. But the BB/CC part took me less than 2 hours this side.
* The first official fjord (69.8) was already above my waist and very difficult (crossed it diagonal as supposed). It rained all night so probably the river is not only affected by glacial melt but also by rain alot.
* Talked to Roberto (he lives around km 80) and he confirmed the river was high due to the rain. He adviced me to cross at his house where the river has 3 arms. I did that and the crossing was just doable the water was untill my waist.
* Roberto also offered me to cross with his horse if it was impossible on foot.
* Took variant H to avoid crossing 2 more times
* The road walk has not alot of nice camping places. Found 1 grassy patch with water around 5km before the lake.
* When the hiking trail next to the lake starts , just go straight to the beach otherwise you have to bushbash.
* The trail next to the lake is sometimes covered by vegetation I break some branches to make a way. Is everyone does this (or with Macheti) the trail will stay walkable (look out for thorns).
* There is internet (Entel) from around halfway the trail.
* I Camped at the end of the trail (km 117.6) close to the lake, there is little stream there as well.
* Road walk to Ibanez is very very very boring as well.
* At water source 135.3 the creek is very small but there is a black hose laying around at the left side of the road which you can use to fill your bottle.
* After 3 hours the first car passed and I got a hitch to town.

* ''' 2025-FEV-15 > 19 / 4 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 33-B > RR > 33-D > RR > 33-H > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : <strike>GPT31</strike>+GPT32+GPT33
| Meteo : soleil nuages et vent
| Eau : difficile au début
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : Rivière, éboulis

J'ai fais quelques courses et j'ai mangé au restaurant à Villa Cerro Castillo. Ensuite j'ai repris la randonnée. Attention l'eau est difficilement accessible car les lacs sont clôturés et en contrebas de la route. Sur la gravel road j'ai réussi à faire 4 km d'auto-stop. J'ai mal préparé ma randonnée et j'ai raté la 33-A. Mais je n'avais pas encore dépassé la 33-B alors je l'ai prise. Il y a un petit ruisseau devant le settler du km 0,7. Je n'ai pas pu faire de stop sur la gravel road car je n'ai vu aucun vehicule. Il y a un ford au km 36 quand le sentier traverse la rivière. Au km 52 un arbre permet de passer la rivière. Je suis passé par la 33-D pour aller voir les lacs. Je suis content d'avoir eu du soleil car la descente après le km 62 est vraiment raide sur des pierres lisse et des éboulis. Il n'y a pas de bush-bashing sur cette section du GPT. La descente après le lac se fait bien puis on entre dans un bois ou il n'y a pas de végétation au sol. Ensuite il faut suivre la rivière en marchand dans l'eau jusqu'au km 68,5 où la rivière se transforme en rapide et on trouve un sentier dans le sous-bois. Il faudrait trouver une autre couleur pour les sections de randonnées où on marche dans l'eau. Les fords des km 71,8, 73,5, 78,3 et 89,5 se font sans mettre les pieds dans l'eau. Le chemin est innondé au km 75,5, difficile à éviter car il est entouré de marais. Le ford du km 81,2 était dangereux car le courant était très fort même avec 60cm d'eau. Au km 98,5 il faut aller directement sur la plage. Le chemin le long du lac est parfois envahi par la végétation surtout dans les zones humide. A partir du km 130 c'est la gravel road peu frequentée X-735. J'ai eu du mal à faire de l'auto-stop mais j'ai reussi à faire les 15 derniers km avec un camion. Je n'ai pas pu m'arrêter à la cataracte du km 148,4, c'est mon seul regret car le vent était si violent que j'avais du mal à avancer.
FEV-20: Repos Coyhaique.

''' 2025-FEB-7 to 2025-FEB-15 / 8 hiking days / Hiking / SOBO / option 03B, RR, option 02 / Nimrod & Tamar '''

Good camps for bad weather (more info below): (-46.172528, -72.273827) Hut near km 52. puesto?[4.8/745] (-46.48726, -72.10065)

We think that its worth mentioning that if the weather is bad and you choose option 02 you should expect hard fords and having hard time following the trail until connecting back to RR.

Day 1:

Hitchhiked from Coyhaique - 3 rides 5 hours. Started walking at 17:00, camped at (-46.116414, -72216049). It was a little wind protected.

Day 02:

Rain all night and all day. Got a lift for 5 km by 2 chilean hikers that went to the Torres and back. Camped at: (-46.172528, -72.273827). Rain and wind all night and the camp location was well protected.

Day 03:

Finally sun came out, so we dried our gear. Camped at km 62. Great view and wind protection. The weather became bad again.

Day 04:

Started hailing in the morning and it should have became worse along the day. We climbed to the pass early in the morning. Got a glimpse of the Torres and made our way to camp at km 52. Near the camp there is an abandoned small hut where we stayed until the next day. The hut is well protected from rain and wind, and you can even make a fire inside.

Day 05:

Our Inreach forecast lied us (again...) and the rain didn't stop until evening. Took option 2 - Rio Avalleno. The river was swollen because of the rain and the fords were quite difficult for us. The trail was gone under the water in a lot of parts, and in some parts it was just CC. Track files was irrelevant in many parts. Camped at puesto?[4.8/745]. Like described before - it's actually a wooden built wall which protects from the wind. The wind was crazy and it gave us great wind protection to pitch our tent and to enjoy a fire.

Day 06:

Finally a nice day. Untill we connected to the RR the trail was in bad condition, and again the track files not very helpful. You can skip 2 fords at km 9 if you stick to the nice and visible trail on the east side.

Maria and Julio not at home. Camped at (-46.276123, -72.204873) There was some wind protection and no water.

Day 07:

At (-46.275422, -72.198820) we met Ricardo (we are not sure if he is a settler or a woreke), which kindly suggested to help us cross the Avellano on his horse back. The river was quite swollen from the rain but it's hard for us to say if it was crossable by foot. Camped at (-46.48726, -72.10065) by the small lake. The wind was strong and the campsite was well protected by the big rocks. We filtered water from the small lake/swamp. It might be flooded earlier in the season though.

Day 08:

Walked all the way to X[130.4/311] and camped near the junction. Not wind protected but the weather was good. There were a lot of water at variant N.

Woke up late and took the bus at 9:00. About one hour ride, 1000 clp. Times like MiaimZelt has written.

'''2025-Feb-02 to 2025-Jan-05 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 3B, RR, Opt 8 / Tom'''

Day 1 - Rainy: I hitchhiked from Villa Castillo to the junction at the beginning of 3B. Great views, but if you can afford to pay for transportation to the end of the road, it's worth it. I camped at -46.2647991, -72.41223312025. Due to the rain, there were several streams, and some areas offered wind protection.

Day 2 - Rainy: A simple day, just following the route. Be mindful of the exit point from the road—I was focused on the rain and missed it. The Mallín (wetland) can be challenging at times, but nothing too difficult.

I arrived at Camp 57.2, where four students had waited for a day, hoping for clear skies.

Day 3 - Sunny: I started early, around 6:45 AM. It took about 2.5 hours to reach the viewpoint. Around -46.3870597, -72.4916724, there's a more recent landslide. Nothing too difficult, just loose rocks and fallen trees. Another 2.5 hours to return. On the same day, I started Opt 8 at 1 PM. This section took me 6.5 hours. It's a cattle trail, poorly marked—you really need to follow the GPS carefully, as there are many paths that lead nowhere. I recommend checking the contour lines since there is significant elevation gain. I arrived at Camp ? 11.6, which is Puesto Aguero—it appears to be in use, with sleeping bags and food inside. The camping area isn't ideal, as the ground retains a lot of moisture.

Day 4 - Rain/Sunny: I started at 2 PM when the rain stopped. The river was quite high, so unlike Michael and Kasia, I used the "punte" (a makeshift crossing). It's a fairly slender tree, but there's a rope to help with balance. I had no issues, but if the river were lower, I would have crossed directly through the water. At the beginning, the route is quite muddy but clear. The first half can be a bit more challenging at times, but the trail is well-marked towards the end. It took 4.5 hours to reach Bahía Muerta.

General Notes: From Route 7 to the Torres viewpoint, it's quite straightforward and well-marked. The difficult section is between Camp 57.2 and Camp ? 11.6. I know there's a route from Camp ? 11.6 to another viewpoint of the Torres, which is not included in current GPS tracks. It seems to be a trail that guides from Avellano Bahía Muerta are currently working on.

'''2025-Jan-17 to 2025-Jan-21 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH03B RR + variant D + variant H / Sean & Neele'''

Took the bus at 10 from Villa Cerro Castillo to the start of Option 03B. We'd hope to hitch the dirt road but we literally saw only one car.

Bridge 25.7km - good place to get water

Camped just before junction for option C (46.5km roughly) by the stream in the woods. Great wind protection.

49km to 50.8km - track files go CC but on OSM there's a trail we followed it and it worked well. CC route looked wet and boggy in places.

Ford 52km - lots of downed trees so can cross with dry feet.

Took variant D - easy and beautiful would recommend it.

Pass 60km small patch of snow on South side no problem without spikes

Camped at camp 63.4km - very beautiful but no wind protection, we were lucky the wind was pretty calm.

CC & BB 64.3 + 4.2 - we just stuck with the stream the whole way down worked out well.

Ford 81.2km - about 550m before the waypoint the trail gets close to the river for us it looked easy at this point so we just crossed here. Just over knee deep at 4pm on a hot sunny day, no rain for the past few days.

Took variant H to skip the other 2 fords.

Camped at 93.3km (S 46° 28.690', W 072° 11.674') nice grassy area with a small stream.

98.5km - shortly after leaving the road RR take you through some bushwhacking but it's avoidable just go straight to the beach.

Camped on the beach around 116km

Road walked to 138.5km where we saw the first car of the day and got a hitch to Puerto Ibanez.

* '''2025 Jan 02 to Jan 11 / 10 hiking days / SOBO, NOBO, WEBO / Hiking / Opt 3B, RR, Opt 2, Opt 8 / Michael and Kasia'''

Quick notes:

A nice section with some great views and some good optionals. It is a fairly popular trail up to the Torres; we met 11 other hikers on the RR. Opt 2 is a really pretty and peaceful valley. Opt 8 is an adventurous alternative route, probably better to exit GPT33 than to enter it on full resupply weight.

CAMPS:

Night 01: -46.25532, -72.38365 (good water access, decent wind protection (look up before you set your tent, there were some widow makers), next to the road, no view)

Night 02: -46.34592, -72.49822 (Camp 57.2) (decent view, excellent water access, minimal wind protection, surrounded by dead trees, not safe in windy conditions, a lot of spots to choose from)

Night 03: -46.40655, -72.49601 (amazing view, decent water access, no wind protection)

Night 04: same as night 3

Night 05: -46.35732, -72.45379 (flat space for two tents, wind protected, just off the trail, water is a little ways away)

Night 06: -46.36802, -72.43937 (flat space for 2 tents, excellent wind protection, no view, water is a little ways away, accompanied by the sturdy arrieros shelter)

Night 07: same as night 6

Night 08: same as night 2

Night 09: -46.39734, -72.58201 (Camp ? 11.6) (not much truly flat space, but if you aren't picky there's lots of space, no wind protection, water is down a steep hill,next to the used puesto)

WATER:

On 3B and into RR on the road it was difficult to find at times. On all trail sections it was easy to find.

Day 01 - Jan 2nd

We got the bus from the terminal in Coyhaique. It was a bit of an ordeal. The buses hadn't been running for two days on account of the holiday, and we had not purchased tickets in advance. There was quite a line and it seemed they had been sold out much earlier. We went and talked to the driver after he finished loading most of the luggage. He said to give him a minute to check. He luckily had two empty seats to Cerro Castillo, and we paid him cash at the break point in Cerro Castillo, 8.000 pp, the normal price. He dropped us at the beginning of Opt 3B. There was a bus stop there. Opt 3B is a gravel road. There is some nice scenery, but overall it's a road walk. There isn't much traffic, but hitchhiking is possible. RR from km 24 where Opt 3B meets it is also gravel road until km 45.5. There isn't a huge grade and the road is in good condition, so it's easy if somewhat underwhelming walking. Water is not so easily accessible. All the little side creeks had dried up or were just water trickling through mud. Much of the time we were too high above the water, or it was fenced off. At km 24.9 there is an unmarked bridge. There was good water access there. There was also a very nice campsite there at (-46.21595, -72.34452). It had flat space for at least one tent, maybe two, trees and good water access close by. The next good water spot we found was at Settler 29.4. There was easy water access next to the bridge down to the barn. We didn't find water again until km 35.5 when we camped for the night. Camp 32.0 should be marked “Camp with No Water”. We did not see any water nearby or anything that looked like there is water at another time of year. At km 31.9 there was a locked gate with a No Trespassing sign, but a set of stairs to walk over the fence on the left hand side. The stairs were solid and in good condition. At km 32.9 was an easy open gate with a No Trespassing sign facing the other direction. It looked like someone had been working there recently, lots of fresh wood cuts, but we didn't see anyone. We camped just off the road at km 35.5 in a little clearing, just after a gate. There was access to the estero there.

Day 02 - Jan 3rd

We continued the road walk. The trail in the forest was very nice. The meadows were a little marshy but we moved through them fairly quickly. Ford 52.0 was easy, top of the calf and not much current. There was actually a fallen tree that could work as a bridge to do a dry foot crossing. We camped at Camp 52.7 next to a stream. This would not be a good site if it is windy. Fortunately we had a windless night. No issues finding water this day. We met three other hikers on their way out of Avellanos.

Day 03 - Jan 4th

The trail to the Trailhead 57.0 is easy to follow and, except in a few places, in good shape. There were a few places where it disappeared for a bit. Where they diverged, sometimes GPT track files were better, sometimes OSM, we just chose what seemed the most traveled. After Trailhead 57.0 the track is a little more difficult to follow. The OSM track was a little more accurate for the CC sections. There was only one ford at the end of the valley a little before it goes up into the woods, around km 59.3, just below the knee, not a strong current. The way through the woods at the end was difficult to follow. It is fairly overgrown in parts and we ended up walking a bit above the GPT track pushing through trees until the boulder field. We were trying to make it to Camp 61.2 above the pass. After the Trailhead 57.0 we did not see another suitable place to camp until close to Camp 61.2; everything was wet or on a slope, either covered in rock or trees. We camped at (-46.40655, -72.49601), about 400 m before Camp 61.2 in a flat area. There was no wind protection, but the night was calm. The site has a great view of the mountains and one of the lakes. We met five other hikers heading out over the course of the day.

Day 04 - Jan 5th

We did a packless day trip up to the pass to see the Torres. The weather was good, full sun and light wind. We spent about an hour on the pass. The Torres are nice; the one in the middle looked to us like it had the face of the rock eating monster from Neverending Story. As nice as the Torres were, we actually preferred the view on the mountains on the north side of the pass. On the way back down we looked at the area around Camp 61.2. We didn't really see any spaces suitable for a tent, certainly not for something the size of the X-Mid 2. There seemed to be a few options for bivys. There were strong gusts of wind in the night and part of our tent collapsed. We managed to get it back up and it stayed up for the rest of the night.

Day 05 - Jan 6th

We headed back NOBO on RR. We met Mia who was heading SOBO at the ford. It was nice to cross paths with another GPTer. At the X 54.5 we switched to Opt 2 Avellanos Bypass. We were interested to see the valley. The trail in places is in great shape, especially the higher areas, and in places non-existant, especially in low, wet areas, or where the river has washed it out. At one point we saw a huemul, our first one. It was walking up stream in the river very slowly and pausing often. We watched it for about 15 minutes before it finally got up on the hill on the opposite side and climbed into the trees. A little while later there was a huge waterfall coming down from one of the mountains. We camped in a sandy area under some trees a ways away from the river. All fords were more of a blessing in the scolding sun than a challenge. The riverbed moved in some places into the land where the GPS tracks were but it was very easy to navigate.

Day 06 - Jan 7th

We walked further downriver to Puesto ? 4.9. It is not actually a puesto, but a stopover half-shelter with fire pit for people driving animals. It was a great wind barrier, and a place to hang out on our rest/”waiting rain over” day. Just a few meters away we found a nice flat area with space for two tents that was very well wind protected and we were expecting 90 km/h winds to come next day. We left our packs and went further down river. The valley is really beautiful and has some great views. For a while the trail is in excellent condition, then it starts to disappear. It was not possible to follow the GPT track for all of it, but we found other paths. The river fords got increasingly more challenging as we went down stream. More drainages joined the river and added water. We turned around at Ford 8.2 and we noticed the increase in river level just over those few hours. The most difficult ford was mid-thigh with a good amount of current (at 6pm, earlier around 3 pm it was good 20 cm lower).

Day 07 - Jan 8th

We took a zero day. Rain and high wind all day. The camp site worked very well for inclement weather.

Day 08 - Jan 9th

We backtracked the rest of Opt 2 and arrived midday back at Camp 57.2. We were planning to exit 33H on Opt 8 but didn't want to start it the same day. We enjoyed a half rest day with sun and no wind at the campsite. We passed three other tents during the day.

Day 09 - Jan 10th

We started Opt 8 in the morning. For the first 7 km or so it is actually fairly easy to follow. The GPX tracks aren't always spot on, but we followed them as closely as we could and we managed to find the trail more often than not. The landslide seemed to be quite small and we just walked below it. The two fords at that point are just over a side stream, so probably dry foot crossable a little later in the season. Everything after that until Camp ? 11.6 where we stopped for the night was a bit of a challenge. In areas the trail is in excellent shape and then it just disappears into slopes of grass and blow downs. We would lose the track and CC for a while, finding it again a couple hundred meters on. I just walked with the Garmin in one hand for most of the way since I had to check it so frequently. The last few km to the campsite were very muddy. It ended up being a very long and very exhausting day. We did not see any serviceable campsites for our tent between the beginning and Camp ? 11.6. Camp ? 11.6 is a puesto with a sign saying it is called Puesto Agüero. There is also a sign saying “No Dejar Basura”, which we took to mean that the puesto is used, at least unofficially, for public camping, but just to pack your trash out. The site does not have good wind protection, but we had a windless night.

Day 10 - Jan 11th

Ford 11.5 had the same makeshift bridge that Maggie & Julien reported last season. We decided to ford instead of use the bridge. We forded a little lower than the waypoint. It was above the knee and with a fair amount of current. The path after the ford was generally very easy to follow. In the pastures we kept an eye on the GPS as there are animal trails that go all over, but in the forested areas it was very clear. It was very muddy for the first half and mostly dry for the second half. There are some nice views of the river along the way, and of the valley toward the end of the section. The MR at the end has been extended further up the valley and now starts about 1.5 km sooner than indicated in the track files. We walked into Puerto Murta around 18:30. We had no particular difficulty with Opt 8, and it was not overgrown enough that we wished we had a machete at any point. Though it doesn't look like it from the elevation profile in Gaia, due to the constant ups and downs there is an enormous amount of cumulative elevation gain and loss. For this reason we think that this is a much better option for exiting the section, so the pack can be as light as possible.

* '''2025 Jan 4th to Jan 9th / 5.5 hiking days / SOBO / Hiking / Opt 3B, RR, Opt D & E & H / MiaimZelt'''

This section indeed is a real gem, but also challenging. Weather was hot and sunny, too warm in my opinion.

Day 1: Wanted to hitchhike from Villa Cerro Castillo to the start of Opt 3B, but then a bus came an took me. Mostly boring hiking along a minor road.

Day 2: Continued along the minor road, soon it got smaller and wasn't passable for cars anymore. At -46.254893, -72.381462 is a new fence, theoretically it could be opened, but you need to be strong. I crawled under it... Here -46.260122, -72.397627 is a large rather open field with lot's of flat space to pitch a tent. Water nearby. -46.260547, -72.400255 small building, which was unoccupied. The horsetrail is in good condition. Camped here: -46.352094, -72.488826, but there is only space for small tents.

Day 3: The ascend in the forest was also in good condition. Later you have to sharpen your eyes and look for the cairns. Met Kasia and Michael, was nice to meet other GPT hikers. Option D is marked with cairns, but there is no trail and i had to cross the river 2 more times. Especially the first lake is a real gem.
Hike up to the pass was not difficult, just take your time.
Way down is more challenging. I had to cross a large and steep patch of snow, which was ok without microspikes. Than you have to climb down a steep slope with lots of boulders, but they have good traction. The middle part was the hardest, because both smartphone and Garmin didn't show my correct position and wanted me to hike down a small waterfall. According to the smartphone there had to be a lake, but there was a forest instead, which wasn't shown neither on the Garmin nor on the Smartphone. Hiked down left of the waterfall, which looked much safer. The last part before you arrive at the glacier lagoon, is a large field of XXL-boulders which you have to cross. The views at the lake were awesome!
The bushbashing was mostly easy or at least not difficult. The worst was the stretch along Rio Ventisquero to the Trailhead. In the beginning i tried to walk in the riverbed, which often means to walk in the river, not just crossing the river. But when a 2nd river was added, the water was up to middle thigh and had a stromg current - not a good idea to continue this way. Hiked at the left side in the forest instead. Sometimes there was a vague animal trail, but it disappeared very often. This was really annoying with a lot of bushbashing. Camped at Camp Without Water {33H} [68.7/766].

Day 4: Crossing of Rio Ventisquero was just up to my knees and not diffucult. Enjoyed the horsetrail along Rio Avellano, but i took Option E, because the RR was i overgrown in this area. Option E is in better condition. Didn't met Maria & Julio, later i saw to guys on horseback. Ford {33H} [81.4/492] was up to my crotch (i'm 1.74cm) and had a strong current, but i made it. My feet had traction, but couldn't place my trekkingpoles correctly due to the strong current. You have to cross 3 times here, but the other two were easy.
The Minor road is not like a real road, it's more a 4x4 track used by horses with sandy ground and vegetation in the middle. It's hard to find a camp at this minor road, because of the thorny vegetation. Camped here: -46.478173, -72.19456. It's a patch of flat gras with enough space for several tents, has a small stream and good protection from the wind.

Day 5: According to my Inreach the wind gusts should reach up to 101km/h. Was indeed very windy, but fortunately it came from the back and the wind was warm. The trail along Lago General Carrera is very scenic and mostly visible, but also strenuous. Some (fortunately very short parts) are badly overgrown - a machete would be useful. Almost every plant in this area has thorns. The ups and downs a very steep, which i didn't like in the heat. Lot's of water. Used Camp {33H} [116.3/239] which has a great protection from the wind. But be aware of the thorny plants while searching where to pitch you tent - there are only 2 places without them.

Day 6: The last stretch until the minor road was much faster. The first part of the minor road has vegetation on it and isn't used by cars. Brought all the water from the lake, but it wasn't necessary. Small streams here: -46.403664, -71.975755 and next to the road at Settler {33H} [121.8/643]. The settler wasn't at home and the wooden gates were locked, had to climb over them. There are several minor roads, not just one. Bridge {33H} [129.3/304] is a deep canyon, didn't see a possibility to get water there. Walked two hours along the road between Levican and Puerto Ibañez, until i got a hitch.

* '''Dec 6-11 / 03B + RR SOBO / wiiiim'''

Great route, still early season, weather was sunny but still cold, rivers were low, the infamous crossing of the lower rio Avellano just above knee height.
The crux of the route was the South side of the pass, sections of snow, I crossed later in the day when it was softer, avoided most of the snow on the East rock flank, but around 1200m the rock slabs were wet & the gullies in between were filled with snow. A bit of a maze, it took some time and back tracking, I used micro spikes but its probably okay without, I think knowing how to self arrest on snow with hiking poles is always a good skill to have, lots of videos exist on that.
Laguna la Plaza is a short/easy side trip well worth it, the North side of the pass is fast going & pretty well indicated (ciarns), on the South side section of CC once on the valley floor it seems easier to wade through the (spectacular) river.
I was pleasantly surprised with the walk along the lake, it’s really different and beautiful.
I was lucky to get a ride out from the MR to Puerto Ibáñez quite quickly from around -46.36065, -71.90255 but it’s usually very quiet.

At -46.26604, -72.41735 there is an established rock bivvy that could also fit a medium size tent.

Overall I would probably recommend the regular route NOBO to cut out most of the start/end road sections: organise a ride from Puerto Ibanez to the trail head (it will be worth the money) and on the other end the finish of 03B on the carretera austral will have plenty of traffic to hitch a ride

• '''2024-Dec-09 to 2024-Dec-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Opt.A + Opt.01A + Opt.01/ Julien'''

Following the road to Puerto Ibáñez
Just a little difficulty about finding water because most of lakes and rivers are private now.

* '''2024-Nov-28 to 30 / 3 day / Hiking / Circuit / GPT33H Option 5 and 5A Valle Miller from Puerto Alarcon to Valle Jaramillo and return to Puerto Sanchez / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

The Cordillera de Avallano between Rio Ibanez and Lago General Carrera is one of the hidden treasures of Patagonia. And Valle Miller is one possible entrance into this mountain range.

After packrafting to Puerto Alarcon we packed our packrafting gear and hiked up Valle Miller along the minor road to the bridge over Rio Miller to crossing “X {33H-05} [7.8/611]”. There are numerous possible camp sites and water sources along this minor road.

A few hundred meters after crossing “X {33H-05} [7.8/611]” is the last pasture with suitable camp sites.

Valle Jaramillo is a very scenic side valley of Valle Miller that can be explored in one day.

This side valley has no distinct trail but the forest is reasonably open. Therefore ascending and descending through the forest is not really bush bashing but just a slalom around the numerous fallen trees.

Once the open terrain is reached, hikers can see the very scenic valley with some remaining smaller glaciers.

The cross country walk to the 1679 m high pass is very rewarding in good weather. From an altitude of 1400 m the terrain was in parts covered by snow fields as we visited this early in the season.

We returned to Puerto Sanchez which is the alternative starting Point for hikers.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024 Mar 22 to 2024 Mar 28 / 7 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Maddi, Tom and Jordan'''

Day 1: Got the public bus from Puerto Ibanez to Levican for about 1000CLP each. We were the only ones on the bus and the driver dropped us at the trailhead. After walking along the road for a while we miraculously got a hitch in the back of a pick up for a couple of kms. Trail down to the lake was a little confusing but just head down and you'll hit the main trail eventually. Trail along the lake has plenty of up and down but nothing too strenuous. We had a perfect, windless day with not too much sun so it was pretty easy going, plenty of spots to get water once down near the lake. The notes said there was some scary exposure but we didn't really encounter any along this section, the path is pretty solid and clearly used by horses. Set up camp on the lake on the small rocky beach at (-46.47634,-72.08138). Just enough room for our Zpacks Triplex and Jordan's free standing tent. Jordan caught a fish that night but chucked it back.

Day 2: Great sunrise over the lake but then it started to rain. Jordan caught another fish which the boys had for breakfast. Walked along the lake in light rain until the old road where we went up the steep hill and started inland. One apple tree along this section but the apples weren't great. Followed the disused road until the end and then started along the track. Hit our first ford at about (-46.46161,-72.24620) which was above the knee on me (174cm tall) and quite fast flowing/muddy from all the rain. Tom slipped climbing up the bank here and fell backwards into the water but somehow avoided getting swept away. Kept walking along until we hit the refugio, unfortunately it was locked. Set up camp next to it so we could use the porch for shelter then went to scout the next ford just past it. This one was way too high and fast to cross so we were hoping it would go down overnight. Rio Avellano also looked impossible but that was a problem for the next day.

Day 3: Luckily the tributary into the Rio Avellano had gone down significantly overnight and we were able to cross without issues, although it was still fairly fast flowing at about knee height. Had a go at crossing the Rio Avellano just after this ford where it is marked on the GPX and others had mentioned it was doable but we had no luck, even employing the three astern. Decided to try the settler's place up on the hill to see if we could get help crossing but noone seemed to be around. Kept following the track along the river, hoping for a place to cross. Jordan somehow manage to cross using the eddies formed by a large tree that had fallen into the river. He had to come back across to help me get over with Tom but it was a near miss. Water level just below hip and quite fast flowing. Massive relief to make it across and get to enjoy the sun a bit. Had lunch near Maria and Julio's but still didn't run into anyone other than sheep. Enjoyed an awesome section walking along through ankle deep water in the autumn colours with snowy peaks in the background. Hit another fairly fast flowing ford, just above the knee, but manageable now we were getting good at crossing 3 astern. Thought we would make it to camp just below the towers but unfortunately hit another ford that even Jordan couldn't cross. Much higher consequence with huge rapids downstream and the water level above the hip. Tried to walk upstream a km or so to see if we could cross but ends up high above the river as it enters a canyon section. Scrambled back down and camped for the night on the track in the forest with the hope of lower water in the morning.

Day 4: Water was much lower in the morning and we were able to cross with no issues. Still over the knee and fast flowing but the group of 3 works wonders. Headed into the forest and up past the old corral then into the swampy section. This was super rough going as the swamp was over the knee in parts. We constantly switched between climbing between the tangle of tree or wading through the swamp. It was raining lightly and getting quite cold by this point. We made it to a clearing along the river at about 11am but the towers were in complete fog and I was shivering hard. Decided to set up camp in the forest and try for the towers the next day in the hope of more visibility. Found a nice camp spot in the forest at (-46.42932,-72.49572) with easy access to the river for water. Snuggled down to try to warm up all afternoon, only emerging for meals.

Day 5: Set off through the forest up towards the towers. Says bush bashing but was actually pretty easy walking up the hill. Towers still in a bit of cloud but made it up there mid morning and spent some time scrambling around the lake to take a look around. Camp site in the rocks was flooded from yesterday so glad we didn't try to get up there to camp. Scramble over the boulder field and up to the pass isn't too bad, although some snow patches made it a bit slippery. Cool granite slabs on the way up. Super windy once we got over the pass so hurried down the valley. No navigation issues but definitely got wet feet walking along the river. Camped at the refugio.

Day 6: Hiked along clear trail until we got to the minor road. Hoped to get a rare hitch but didn't really see anyone. Decided to hike along the river just before the bridge toward Lago Lapparent to find somewhere to camp. Found a few awesome spots along the crystal clear water for our last night.

Day 7: Headed back to the road and followed it back to the Carretera Austral. Got a hitch in about 15 minutes all the way to Coyhaique but there is a bus stop there if you can time it right.

* '''2024-02-23 to 2024-02-27 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH03B + RR + OH08 / Maggie & Julian '''

Trail attractiveness: 4/5;
Difficulty: 3/5
(keep in mind that this is our first GPT hike)

Day 1: ‘GPT33H-03B start’ to (-46.2570, -72.3711):

We entered from Carretera Austral at Laguna Verde (Option 03B) after being dropped off by the morning bus from Coyhaique (heading to Cochrane). Arrived at the crossroads at 11:30am with Don Carlos bus.
Whole day was walking on roads and relatively easy to make distance.
At (-46.2671, -72.3561) there was a sign reading "se prohibe la entrada al predio" and a locked gate with a ladder to climb over the side. There is a campsite (Camp, X {33H} [32.0/700]) pinned shortly after, but we decided to keep going because of the sign. At (-46.2621, -72.3613) there is an end to the property (same sign facing opposite direction, no gate). We camped on an area used for chopping wood at (-46.2570, -72.3711). Short scramble down to the river.

Day 2: (-46.2570, -72.3711) to Camp {33H} [52.7/953]:

Large part of the day was also road walking, afterwards trails and some cross country.
Camped by Camp {33H} [52.7/953]. Camping around Puesto {33H} [53.0/946] has better mountain views, Puesto itself was being used, possibly for guided horseback trekking.

Day 3: Camp {33H} [52.7/953] to Pass {33H} [62.0/1314] and back:

We left our tent set up and most things at Camp. The way up was sometimes hard to find. Trail markers made more sense on the return. Had an extended lunch a little after Pass {33H} [62.0/1314] and then returned the way we had come.

Day 4: Camp {33H} [52.7/953] to Camp ? {33H-08} [11.6/548]:

Probably hardest day in navigation, trail disappeared often, but manageable.
The former landslide section at (-46.3853, -72.5520) did not pose any difficulties for us as the water level was not too high and the main river flow now goes near the northwestern side of the valley. We just had to step over the remaining side stream. With more water some fording might still be necessary, but I imagine you could get away with staying near the southeastern bank for this section.
At Camp ? {33H-08} [11.6/548] there is a puesto that seems to be in use, but we saw no one and camped a little lower near the river.

Day 5: Camp ? {33H-08} [11.6/548] to ‘GPT33H-08 start’:

Right after camp there was a makeshift bridge to cross the stream (tree and rope, very rickety).
Trail seemed to be used and maintained on this part of option 08.
Shortly before Camp {33H-08} [6.9/435] there was a previously washed-out section with a new path already laid out. In heavy rainfall this could wash out again but should not pose a big hindrance.

Notes:

- RR + option 08 is a great short alternative without much backtracking.

- Our hitch out of Puerto Murta happened to be local members of an association that wants to bring more tourism to their town and the Torres del Avellano. If their plans are fruitful, traffic and trail maintenance may increase on option 08.

- We organized the transport of our non-trekking items from Coyhaique to Puerto Río Tranquilo by encomienda. Ines, the lady working at the Sao Paulo bus office in Coyhaique terminal was kind enough to hold our boxes until we arrived and called her from Puerto Rio Tranquilo. Our things arrived the day after we called at around 1pm. We shipped a rather large quantity of items (enough items to fill 50L bag) for 12000 CLP. Sao Paulo bus Coyhaique telephone: +56 672 255 726

* '''30/01/2024 - 01/02/2024 / 3 days, 78 km / Options 06 and 07 / Alex + Andrey'''
South bound (east bound).
“Mountain route”,

a combination of Options 06 and 07 which are now passed and confirmed.

Difficulty: Difficult/Very Difficult

Most of the route is off-trail
Thanks to Jan for the suggested routes and clues.
Short resume:

This mountain route is a more difficult and demanding alternative to the regular route but can be an interesting option for those looking for a challenge.
The combination with a regular route allows to form a full-fledged “eight”, a trip of 6-10 days.

Option 07 is a shorter, although more difficult, alternative to the regular route in case the Avellano River cannot be forded NOBO.
Notes and recommendations.

Option 07:

All fords do not pose any significant difficulty.
Due to the height and southern exposure the areas between Pass 1 and Pass 2 (Pass {33H-07} [17.0/1755]) and descents from Pass 2 in the early to mid-season have extensive areas of snow where microspikes or crampons may be required.
The main difficulty on the descent is overcoming several side washouts, which are small but deep and steep canyons.

Option 06:

There is no water during the first 4-5 hours of ascent to the valley.
The open area of the upper valley at Camp 2 and beyond throughout the ridge is a resort for very strong winds. Setting up camp may be difficult or impossible. A strong hiker can combine and complete this section in one day.
The predominant wind exposure makes passage from west to east highly recommended.
The last reliable source of water is before reaching High Pass 3. Further east there is no water until the junction with the regular route, except for temporary streams from seasonal snow.

The track and additional information are here:
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/avellano-mountain-route-chilean-patagonia-160489118

* '''2024-Mar-04 to 2024-Mar-08 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 03B + RR + OH D + K / Joscha'''

Day 1: OH33H-03B + RR [24.2-41.2]

I tried to hitch from Villa Cerro Castillo to the start of OH33H-03B. After 1 hour a Bus arrived and took me to the start for 2000 Pesos. The Bus runs from Cohayique to Chile Chico on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. It starts in Coyhaique at 9 am and stopps in Villa Cerro Castillo at around 10:30 am. From the brigde at km 25.7 until km 35.8 there is no water on the RR. You walk close to some rivers but I didn't check if its possible to acces them. After km 35.8 there is plenty of water. At km 38.5 is a big flat field for camping with a creek next to it. I camped just before the crossing of the river at km 41.2.

Day 2: RR [41.2-58.3] + OH33H-D + RR [61.0-63.4]

There was plenty of water all along the trail. Camping possible at -46.291963, -72.470389 just before the Pass (km 44.4), at the start of OH33H-C and along the CC section from km 49.0 to 50.8. I can recommend OH33H-D. I especially liked the first Laguna. Camp 63.4 has awesome views, but is only slightly wind protected and the spots are only good for small tents.

Day 3: RR [63.4-93.2]

I stayed inside the riverbed for the last 2.5 km of the CC&BB section. I had to cross the river about 20 times, but its the fastest and easiest way. The ford at km 83.6 was just below my crotch (I am 191 cm) and the current was pretty strong at around 5 pm. It would have been difficult for smaller persons. All the other fords today were at max. knee hight. There is plenty of water all along the route. I camped next to the RR on a flat, grassy field at km 93.2.

Day 4: RR [93.2-116.3]

Plenty of water along this part of the RR.

Day 5: RR [116.3-119.6] + OH33H-K + RR [122.6-141.0]

OH33H-K is easy to walk but does not offer any great views. If you choose OH33H-K, than there is no water between km 117.5 and 138.5 (at km 135.2 is a water marker, but I didn't see any as I walked by. Maybe I missed it, because I wasn't looking for it). There is water at km 140.3. I got a hitch from km 141.0 to Puerto Ibanez. But there are very few cars on the road, so don't count on getting a hitch.

* '''2024-Feb-12 to 2024-Feb-16 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 03B, RR, Variant C, E, H, K / Tomáš & Natalie'''
There was a queue of three hitchhiker groups who did not get picked up while we were doing our shopping, so we opted to hire a taxi for 15000 to the start of 03B (Pedro Zuleta: +56 993 5786 68). Somehow, during our arranging of the taxi, all three groups left. Roadwalking to option 07 was uneventful. Tomáš got a hitch (he eats lunch too slowly so Natalie got ahead) for about 5 km from a family which was exploring in a car. About 500 m before the diversion to option 07, there is a locked gate with a sign saying the property is private, but one can go over a ladder. At the gate, we met a local with a key who has a house on Option 07, if we got him right. He gave us a ride of 500 m. The start of option 7 is actually a road.

The MR at 24.2 is in a bad shape due to erosion after ford at about 12 km in. Tomáš made a bridge out of a log but managed to jump into the water while doing it. Enjoy the bridge while it lasts as did a Frenchman we met there. He did the circuit NOBO based on Wikiloc. He said he keeps coming across GPT, but could not figure out how to get the GPS route. We told him to talk to Jan. Maybe he will come back the next season.

On the way to the Torres, we met 3 pairs of Chilean hikers going back. Tomáš went to Laguna La Plaza (option C). Lake is grey but the valley is nice enough to justify the short detour. It is no BB, there is a trail in the forest and above the tree line a vague trail or easy CC. The Torres are indeed magnificent. One can easily walk on the sloped polished slab falling into the far side of the second lake before the pass - it is an exhilirating detour. Going down from the pass, when the GPX turns right, Tomáš actually managed to walk over one of the ledges above the GPX and liked it. Just be extremely careful with moss and water, they can make the stones extremely slippery, but he survived that without falling. About 100 m before the lake, there is a at-least-a-ton heavy swing in the form of a loose boulder. Enjoy if you can find it. Camp 63.4 is literally awesome. We had a very warm almost windless night there.

After the boulder field under camp 63 we loss the rest of the elevation on the right side of the creek and then when the swamp appeared on the right we went to the left and stayed on that side (North) for the entire BB/CC. There is a vague trail most of the way, but is has many many logs over it. It took us 3 hours to walk to the trailhead. We kept our feet dry and were in the shade, but it would have been quicker and far less tiring just following the riverbed and constantly crossing the river.

Ford at 69.8 around noon was slightly above the knees. Ford it diagonally as the trail wants you to - it is shallower that way (ie a little further down than where the trail spits you out). Greeted grandfather, Maria and Julio and their three kids and had a short talk with the grandfather, nice to see the whole family working together on projects. From their place, the trail sort of is wide enough for a car (there is one at their place) but we think it is never or virtually never used by cars. Ford at 81.4 at six in the afternoon was 5 cm under our crotches (we are about 1.70), we forded about 100 upstream of GPX. The river was strong but we did not feel it was dangerous for us. We forded the widest part of the river just before a dead end fence (if you are coming from the other direction, after the grey river and around the dead end ford you will see the widest part of the river).The day was hot and despite not covering even 20 km, we felt superexhausted. Strong sun and spikees got to us!

We camped about 4 km along the road, shortly after the second (both jumpable) ford. It must be a good place to camp, as Tomáš, who went back to the big ford where he left his sandals the previous day, met a GPT hiker going NOBO who apparently slept in a hearing distance from us. The hiker first started to come to Patagonia decades ago, before it was overrun. Tomáš sadly never asked his name. Met the grandfather again, coming back from the port, horses are fast!

The road is not used by cars but stiĺl quite ugly. Around middle, near option 6, there are two shortcuts (400 and 50 metres) to the zigzags, three of which were marked by cairns by Tomáš. Please add the fourth cairn. Puesto 98.3 is a settler. He offered Natalie to come inside and rest but she didn't feel right stopping at that moment and kind of got the "heeby jeebies" from him. Met another pair of GPT hikers, doing just 33. The stretch along the coast is beautiful and very Mediterranean. All day the lake was without waves, even that can happen. Slept at Lake 113.8: nicer, with water and less buggy than camp 200 m earlier (just beware if the wind picks, up the waves can be very loud).

Variant K misses last water but is easy to follow, nicer than a road and involves only three very easy fence hops. Reached the bus stop for Puerto Ibanez around three. Got lucky and received a hitch from two British tourists to Puerto Ibanez. The shops there are larger than expected and stock overpriced pesto and gnocchi, Tomáš is almost as joyful as cherries make him!

Nat's Notes:

- For views I would prefer this NOBO. I suffered a new type of "look back" syndrom on most of the route. Plus, if you are walking the lake shore in the afternoon, the sun should be on your downhills and not your uphills (it was insanely hot when we did it and without a whisper of wind).

- In the section notes for km24-45 I think what was meant was that from roughly km36-45, "there are many small streams and camping spots", this is indeed true. However, between km 24-36 and option 3 there are NO longer many STREAMS to drink from, I remember only one slightly decent one and both sides of the road are fenced so if you want to camp or drink water from the main river, then you must jump the fences (cow panels or barb) or ask a settler. Also, strange to say, there is very little shade and can get uncomfortably hot...

- Intersection 45 is not hard to miss anymore, it is marked with an orange ribbon around a tree and a large cairn on your left.

- On Trail#9 (ascent before the first two alpine lakes) I took Veronicas advice about going into the woods where the RR is but rather than trying to follow the GPS, I followed what seemed to be a trail along the creek with some cairns here and there. Eventually it ends above the trees but you should be able to make your way back to the RR once the "coast is clear", ie. no more trees. If you want to walk along the lake then you should do the CC up the boulder field on Variant D.

- Going down from the pass was no problem, like everyone says, "just follow the gps". However with that said, it is very tempting to make your own way bcs there are many good looking ledge systems but after reading Wills experience, I backed away from the temptation and followed the GPS. I also slipped on some wet moss on RR.

- So much water everywhere except for the lake camping, if you are smart you will fill up on one of the many streams before getting to the lake...

- When doing the BB/CC section, after the initial elevation loss from the lake, there isn't much drinking water apart from the river until near the end of the BB. I think you could make "makeshift" camps. I was tempted to cross the river early to avoid crossing it at km69 but once again I remembered what Will wrote last year about the thorns and cliffs so I don't think that's a good idea.

- Not a fan of the lakeside gate locking technique (remember how it looks before you open it;)

- I surprisingly really enjoyed the lake stretch, it seemed it is where Pantagonia meets the Mediterranean/Arizona. The trail is in good shape, just a few overgrown roses and thorny bushes here and there (regretted shorts only a little bit). If you are coming from the north and still have your sand gaiters, this will be a good time to reuse them :). No exposure, wish there was more wind the day we were there. I am usually the biggest hater of "PUDs" - thanks for the new word - but these were not annoying. These PUDs are just a few large hills rather than a bunch of steep micro hills like gpt22 or the valley bottoms in Argentina. Water is at pretty much every "notch" in the hillside.

- Water is at the bottom of the MR~117.5 and there is still water at the top 119.9 RR (easier to grab it a little higher up).

* '''2024-Jan-30 to 2024-Feb-4 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Yannick & Nolwenn & Tess & Lukas'''

- Trail condition : gpx easy to follow / between km 63,7 and km 68,5 we mostly stayed on the left of the river
- Water : easy to find plenty of rivers and lagunas
- Camping spot : easy to find and the one at km 68.7 is nice // the refugio near the lake at km 98.5 is perfect - make fire, sleep inside, we even could ask for some bread
- Weather : some rainy and cloudy days but overall the weather was ok
- River crossing :at km 69.8 we crossed the river early in the morning and the current was strong and the water up to the middle of the thighs but manageable // at km 81,2 the river was strong and up to our hips, we crossed it in the rain, it was also manageable for us that already jave a little bit of experience
- Resupply : in Villa Cerro Castillo and in Chile Chico ( a bulk shop just opened in front of the camping Nandu) // at km 76,7 we could buy some bread, cheese and eggs at Maria and Julio's house
- Overall : we absolutely loved this section ! The views are spectacular and really diverse from one day to another // we got a hitchike at the end on the gravel road to go to Puerto Ibanez.

* '''01.27.2024 / 5 days / Hiking / SoBo / RR + Option 8 to Bahía Murta / Milton Cea + 4 more'''

Considering that we would venture to make this route a journey from Villa Cerro Castillo to Bahía Murta, we have decided to pay Pedro Zuleta, who is dedicated to transportation in the surrounding areas (+56 9 9357 8668), to take us to the entrance of the route at the registration booth. There, we encountered a pair of muleteers who did not pay much attention to our passing, however, we spoke with them to ask for their permission and inquire about the condition of the path.

We started with the regular route, a bit late, and for that reason, we camped the first night at Mallín Grande, which is a very good option, as watching the sunrise in this beautiful place is worthwhile.

Starting early the next day, we reached the "Los puestos" sector and from there, leaving our camp set up, we headed towards the towers. We were only able to reach the first lagoon at the base of the massif, as we went a bit late and our conversation with some other hikers we met extended. I would recommend leaving early to take advantage of the views from the portezuelo lookout.

The next day we began the crossing through the "Río Resbalón" Valley, as the locals call it, following an animal trail that sometimes tends to get lost among new vegetation or fallen trees, accompanied by other hikers who decided to join the journey.
It is a part of the route that can be slightly complex if you do not have a good reading of the surroundings, finding the animal traffic trail, and considering that you navigate through a forest that can easily disorient. This changes when you already walk with the "Resbalin/Resbalón" river to your right, as it is quite useful to follow its course. Always on the left side of the river.
On the way, there are some fallen trees and abandoned muleteer posts that can be used as camping space if necessary, although I would not recommend camping in this old forest.
Upon reaching the point of the road collapse, the crossing of the scree can be done at the level of its arrival, but to continue the route, you must climb a few meters up the mountain until you find the entrance to the continuation of the route. This point took some time from us, and we decided to camp near the river, towards the rock beach in the middle of a young forest with a mossy floor, very comfortable and restorative. We also decided to place some pircas at this point, as there was no mark to help resume the path towards Murta, since the difference in height was noticeable and it can be easy to believe that the path continues by the river side, but no, from here the path separates from the river and goes up the mountain.

Finally, after this last abandoned stretch, where the vegetation is abundant in some parts, we ended up arriving at the Puesto de Los Agüeros and decided to spend a night there, as we were very tired from constantly finding the route. It's worth mentioning that we couldn't find a GPS track before the trip.

The next day, after a night of intense rain, we took the official route traced from "Bahía Murta" at opossite direction and arrived in the town at dusk.
If you want the track and the Waypoints of the journey, feel free to write to me at '''milton.1902@gmail.com''' =)

* '''From 2023-01-20 to 2023-01-21 // 1,5 day // Hiking // NOBO // option 1 Valle Ibanez // Quentin Clavel'''

When I arrived in Puerto Ingeniero Ibàñez, I had to make a choice, as the weather window were pretty short. I had only 3 days and a half ahead of nice weather followed by one entire week of rain.

So I made the hard choice to skip Torres del Avelano, and go straight to Cerro Castillo by the OPT1 to explore the NP of CERRO CASTILLO.

This section was not so bad. Even if it was gravel road until the Lago tamango, I had nice views, and was not too bored from this stretch, but well yeah, it's gravel road for 30 km, so of course it was not all the time so funny aha !

Then I went to the small track along Lago tamango. Very quiet, pretty well marked thanks to these sticks with red and white colours on top, and with some scenic views.

You'll end up at the parking of the touristic sendero sitio archeologico de manos pintadas (Paredón de las Manos (1000CLP for children's, 2000CLP for adults. From Tuesday to Sunday 10h00-17h00). Then it's gravel road, following by 1,3 km on the carretera austral to reach Villa cerro castillo.

I was expecting worse for this section. Quite happy about it. That's a nice alternative if, for a reason, you want or have to skip Torres de Avelano

* '''2024-Jan- 14 to 2024-Jan-16/ 3 days/hiking/SOBO/ 33h/ 33h-b/33h-a/ 33h-P/Paulina'''

At first, I wanted to do RR, but as the recent reports about the river crossing where not very encouraging, I decided to play it safelty, so I just mixed some sections.
I started in Villa Cerro Castillo, till X 33h [ 5.5/554] it was a very peaceful, nice trail, with beautiful views on Cerra Castillo. There were some fence crossing, but not very annoying.
After the intersection, so once I joined the road X-725, it was less interesting, walk on a gravel road. I think this part of RR is better to hitch-hike ( it's possible and not very difficult to catch a car on this way).
Once I reached the big lakes ( beautiful views!) and some wanderful camping spots [ S 46.17790 W 072.32049] between Lago Alto and Lago Lapparet, I took 33h-b. At the beginning the trail was l crossing a forest used by locals as wood supply, but later ( around the place where it joined 33h-a), the landscape was amazing! Especially the part with lakes and settlers.

The last section was on 33h-01A. The cannion of Rio Claro and later the waterfall are beautiful, but for some hikers a long distance on gravel road on this section can be annoying so it's probably better to hitch-hike ( not a lot of cars but still possible).

I bought my ticket for ferry from Puerto Ibanez to Chile Chico without any problem 1h30 before the ferry departure.

The mix of these 4 sections + hitch-hiking it's a good option for bad weather or high river level on RR. Some parts are very beautiful, and the less interesting parts ( long distances on gravel roads) it's possible to cover by car.

* '''2024-01-02 to 2024-01-07 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR & Options: 03, 03B, 04C, 04 & Variant E / Roman'''

Route: Hitchhiked along Option 03 to X {33H-03} [18.6/315]. Hiked via Option 03B to X {33H} [24.2/462] and than continued RR to Ford, X {33H} [71.8/602]. Here used Variant E and back to RR all the way to Settler {33H} [85.0/462] (Luis Diaz). Continued on Option 04C to X {33H-04} [73.9/559]. From here used option 04 all to way to Bahía Murta.

Decided to go SoBo to get the tricky parts done with a good weather forecast. Hitchhiked along Option 03 because it's easier to get a lift. Was at X {33H-03} [18.6/315] 12:35 PM. From there it's a super easy to hike street all the way to X {33H} [45.5/1088] via Option 03C and than 03. Sadly there where no cars going in the correct direction. Towards the end (last 5km) there are some rivers crossing the street, nothing bad, you can get over them dry feet if jumping on the rocks. Continued the RR, the trail is clearly visible and easy to hike all the way to Camp {33H} [52.7/953]. Arrived there at 09:30 PM. It's a awsome place to pitch a tent! It was absolutely woth it to go for such a long day. Met 2 locals who went with a truck all the way to this point: -46.26754, -72.419667. Met also Cy & GG (see GPT 23). We continued the next day. Trail was in a good condition and CC was easy no snow up to the pass Pass {33H} [62.0/1314]. Absolutely beautiful view! There is some snow on the south side on the way down. It's mostly melted to you can decide if you want the first 150-200m of elevation go down in snow or trough the boulders. It was a sunny day therefore quite easy to get down to the lake. From there we went down a boulder field to the BB (Bush bashing) section (400m). This is trivial - no macheta required. It's just walking trough the forest. From there the CC&BB is at the beginning easy. We found a animal trail on the southern side of the river. Than the swamp started which was annoying. We started, after finishing the swamp section, to walk in the river bed around here -46.438037, -72.469247 which was fast progress but wet feet. Jumped on the trail and camped at Camp Without Water {33H} [68.7/766]. There is a lot of water at the river and it's just a 10 minute walk so we filled the bottles. The Camp is good, stayed there with 3 tents. Continued the next day (it was moderate rain during the night and at the morning) to the X, Ford {33H} [69.8/634]. This was at the limit what is safely possible. Fast flowing river - hip deep (iam 180). From there on the trail was clearly visible and easy to hike fast. Continued the RR and did Variant E. Check you GPS, we didn’t intend to do it we just followed the most clearly visible trail and ended up at the Puesto {33H-E} [0.8/619] so we continued. The statement from above is still valid all the way to Settler {33H} [85.0/462] (Luis Diaz) for the RR ;). After that is a easy trail, at Settler {33H} [76.7/535] (Maria & Julio) I met Julio and they had a car there to the trail from this point on is even easier. I split up here with Cy & GG because of different plans and it was questionable if the Ford at Ford {33H} [81.2/490] (Rio Avellano) is even possible so I wanted to speed up. Reached the point around 05:00 PM. It was not possible to Ford - way to deep and to much current! So I used my packraft and crossed the river. Got in the water here: -46.456627, -72.320677 and followed than the RR. Ford {33H} [81.4/492] was also impossible by foot. Used the same tactic and crossed it by boat. Got in the water here: -46.453523, -72.316373 and crossed by boat. After that easy trail and continued the RR. Ford {33H} [83.6/467] (Rio Avellano) was also absolutely impossible so also did it by boat. After that I camped here: -46.463767, -72.26597.

interim conclusion: if the weather is not stable (I knew it wasn't [would reccomend checking with meteoblue] go SoBo and be aware that the crossing can be impossible - I would reccomend bringing you packraft so you habe more options even though it's the H route. Otherwise you have to wait, potentially for days or you need the help of a local (this is how Cy & GG managed it).

Next day continued 04C. The trail to the pass is clearly visible and beautiful to hike. From there it's hard to find a few times because of a lot of animal tracks. Follow the GPS. The trail is again visible from this point on: -46.486009, -72.212428. Trail condition generally good with some bushes hanging in the trail. Reached X {33H-04} [73.9/559]. Same here a lot if animal trail - follow the GPS. The trail is clearly visible from this point on: -46.49591, -72.205307 up to Bahía Murta. Condition is good. The Pass {33H-04} [71.5/958] is definetly a highlight. Camped at Camp {33H-04} [66.2/209] - great place. Next day was long no changes on the trail condition - good and easy - hiked to Ford, Camp {33H-04} [37.5/259]. Camping there is a bit tricky to find a good place but manageable. Met a guy at the gosttown Puerto Cristal. The trail is according to him also used by tourists groups. I asked before the trial if there is a ferry connection - there is none only one company goes there by boat for tourist. Maybe you can arrange a transfer ( https://turismopuertocristal.cl/ very fast response time via WhatsApp 10 minutes). The Pass {33H-04} [43.3/840] is also a highlight. The Ford, Camp {33H-04} [37.5/259] is challenging hip deep. After that it's easy road walk to Bahía Murta. Got a lift at -46.520007, -72.636049.

Overall: I would recommend SoBo because the difficult sections are at the beginning and weather dependent. Go if you have a few stable non rainy days. Bring you packraft to have more options for fording. The entry via Option 03 & 03B is in my opinion easy due to hitchhiking & ou find a grop and book a lift The views are amazing at the passes. The BB is trivial. BB&CC is annoying but done within 2 hours. The Option 4 is absolutely beautiful and if you are a bit luckier than me avoids a lot of road walking. Would definitely reccomend the section. The reason for me to go with Option 04 is to easy connect to 82P.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-12-22 / 3 days / RR / SOBO / Anh'''

Just a quick info: The first part of RR is not marked but very easy to hike. After the pass (km 62) I had a hard time with the 2km CC. At first the snowfields were very steep (60 slope). The snow thickness was only 20-80cm, underneath are very big steep boulders and the melting snow makes the hollows big. Then there are the streams under the snowfields. I was a few times with a foot in it, fortunately not whole body. I had to go up and down in the forest, on the edge, on the rocks... My goal was to be safe, it took me 2 hours to cover the 2km.

==Season 2022/23==
* '''2023-Mar-30 to 2023-Mar-31 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 1 / Martin & Helena'''

We started from Villa Cerro Castillo around 11 AM and took ferry from the port the next day at noon. The former RR trail follows path of Sendero de Chile, and starting with no expectations we were quite impressed with what it offers, especially all the amazing views of Cerro Castillo. It's definitely a good short alternative to the Torres del Avellano detour that we were forced to skip. Trail is easy to follow and you can find many camp spots along the way. There are many small shops in Puerto Ibáñez. Knowing the ferry schedule we went directly to the port where were just a few others in this time of the year.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''26/02/2023 - 02/03/2023 / RR SOBO with emergency exit on a boat on Lago General Carrera / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''

Day 1 - From Lago Verde - 15.5km - +700m/-300m We first hitchiked from Villa Cerro Castillo to Lago Verde on the Carretera Austral. We hiked then the gravel road until the camp next to the free check in point, in the forest.

Day 2 - Laguna La Plazza - 16.5km - +800m/-500m We kept going on the minor road before the well maintained horse trail. We took option to the Laguna La Plazza and we camped there but the weather was quite bad with a lot of wind. Would recommend to camp in the pasture down there in these conditions.

Day 3 - Lagunas before the pass - 17km - +1000m/-900m The trail was still very easy to follow this day. A bit of cross country at the end but nothing difficult as there are kerns. There is a spot to pitch tents next to the second lake, between it and the waypoint "camp" (that we didn't find btw). Very nice there and without the clouds, the view should be incredible.

Day 4 - CC until diversion @km69.8 - 14km - +500m/-1100m The troubles began for us this day. Noé injured his knee just after the pass. With Rémi, we alternated carrying his bag in addition to ours. That's why we hadn't moved a lot. The bush bashing is demanding and under the rain, fording is a real challenge. I would recommend you to be south of the Rio after the diversion/ford. We camped on the north side, a few hundred meters after the div.

Day 5 - Lago General Carrera - 30km - +700m/-1000m As we were a bit late, we decided to walk directly to the lake. We forded the Rio in order to be south of it and we found the horse trail, it was easier then ! We crossed the Rio a last time @km81.2, still manageable with the rain but a bit hard (water until the hips, we are 1m80 tall) with a strong current. Then, the minor road. We didn't leave it until the lake. A bit of ups and downs but the road is nice so it is fast. Here, at the lake. There is mobile coverage and so we contacted numeros given on the PDF on WhatsApp to find a boat to bring us back to civilisation. With the third bag to carry, it was too hard for us to keep hiking. I let you the contact of Jairo, that can bring you back to Puerto Tranquilo... for 400.000 CLP... we didn't had the choice as the settler living just in front of the lake wasn’t there. Jairo : +56 9 6633 9507 He transported us the next day.

* '''2023-Feb-21-27 / NOBO / RR + Option 3B / Ondrej and Bara / Puerto Ibanez - Vila Cerro Castillo / 6.5 days'''

Gorgerous section. Unfortunately, we were struck by bad weather mid-way which took out the joy and brought a few very difficult moments for us.

We went NOBO and on the 3rd day camped in the valley close to Maria & Julio (76.7 km). It started raining early morning and while the rain stopped around midday, it was enough to turn streams into rivers and cross country paths into swamps. We were unable to ford the river at km 69.8 at two different places. To continue, we decided to make a risky choice and bush-bash upstream on the other side of the river, hoping to ford it in an upper section and rejoin the trail. This eventually worked out. We forded the river at -46.43642, -72.45456 and rejoined the trail. This 1.2km diversion took us about 2 hours. Bush-bashing through forest was okay but in the middle of the diversion we struggled through 300m of thorny bushes which took forever to get across.

From around 1000m of altitude, we had fresh snow on the slopes. This made the boulder field more challenging than we wanted (fortunately still manageable). We crossed the exposed pass at km62.0 and continued on the other side, firstly through snow and then again through muddy cross country parts until we joined the trailhead at km 57.0. Afterwards the trail was easy all the way until the end.

We also met Anna and Christopher going the opposite direction - really great to meet fellow hikers!

* '''2023-Feb-20-24 / NOBO / RR shortend on the road sections / Zohar / Road to Levicán - Carterra Austeral / 5 days'''

I tried to shorten the section because of the upcoming bad weather, which hit on the last day, but I was lucky to catch a ride out with a family that came to collect wood from their land.

I arrived on Monday to pureto Ibañez spoke with the van to levicán that left at 17.40 to Levicán got off on the way where the rout leave the main road and walked till the shore of Lago General Carrera. Day 2 I followed the horse trail along the lake, which was very visible and easy to follow. Then, I followed a miner till I found a stable campsite. Day 3 was the hardest. I was determined to sleep at the base of the torres, so I had a lot of trail to cover, and the route was hard to follow, but the direction was clear. Day 4 started with a beautiful sun rise on the clear torres de avellano. The bolder field wasn't as hard as I itentenly thought, but be careful. After the pass, I met 4 young hikers going to the torres and back. Day 5 was wet, but at least on a minor road and about 9 km before the road, I was picked up and taken to Villa Cerro Castillo.

I don't advise doing the section in 5 days thay where long, big days, and it is better to enjoy the surroundings. if the weather was better, I would have taken 7 days. This section is beautiful and highly recommended

* '''20.02. - 24.02.23 / Anna & Christopher / SOBO, Villa Cerro Castillo - Puerto Ibáñez'''

In the afternoon we started hitchhiking the Carretera Austral to where Option 3B starts. There were lots of people trying to hitchhike directly from Villa Cerro Castillo, so we figuered to have a better chance if we walk further up the Carretera Austral. We soon got lucky. That day we walked the dirtroad until km 4.4 and camped there next to a small stream.

The next day was mostly easy walking on dirtroads until the crossing at km 45.5 (which is relatively easy to miss!). We camped at km 49 at the edge of the forest.

The next day the weather turned bad once we reached the section with all the boulders on the ascent to the pass. We did some unnecessary climbing by not sticking to the main route. When descending we lost the main route again and briefly tried to descend without it, which we soon realised is a bad idea, so we climbed back up to where we lost it. We spent the night at the camp at km 63.4.

The next morning we woke up with a clear blue sky and finally saw the Torres del Avellano. Really amazing rock formations. The following bushbashing part seemed ok to us, we had worse ones on the GPT so far ;). First we walked on to the right of the river following a good animal path. Once it ended we changed to the left side and stayed there. About 2/3 of the route is a realtively good path and the rest was some easy BB and climbing over fallen trees. Luckily the ford at km 69.8 was easy to cross. We took variant E from where on the trail was in a great condition and we could walk pretty fast. The river crossing at km 81.1 was more demanding and went almost up to Annas hips (1,63m). We camped soon after that at approx. km 81.5.

We continued on variant H the easy trail on the dirtroad until the lake, where it gets more demanding (we underestimated the continous ups and downs). The views are amazing though. It gets pretty windy next to the lake. We camped at a tiny spot at km 109.3 next to a small stream.

On the final day we walked to the bus station (6 pm) and took the ferry to Chile Chico the same day (8 pm). This section was great :)

* '''11-18 February 2023 / Maks&Gabi / SOBO / RR, 33H-E, 33H-H ( hichhiking from km136 to Puerto Ibanez)'''

We started from Villa Cerro Castillo. If you can, try not to skip the first part of road walking. It's beautiful with the view over Lagunas and Cerro Castillo. The terrain is also different than in later parts of the section.

There are some problems - lot of fences and gates on the first 5 km. Then many aggressive dogs and limited access to water (steep descents and fences around the lakes). The camping spots, marked on track files, can be hard to access (private properties with new fences). We camped by the bridge around 25km (the bridge is not marked).

We than waited half a day for the rain to stop. The rest of the road is also well maintained with occasional river crossing (all easy).

The next trail part (until km 57) is mostly visible. Some problem can occur by the CC part, especially during heavy rain - it was all floded. We weren't exactly expecting it, but it was snowing and the temperature during the night was about -4. Next day we waited until 11 am to dry our stuff, as the sun finally came out.

As Veronica wrote, when going up to the pass try to follow the cairns (33H-D). The part between the lakes and the pass is quite easy.

Going down from the pass we followed the GPS and we found it quite manageable (actually for us it seemed to be much easier going SOBO than NOBO at that point, even though it was slippery and with a lot of small streams going down the rock). We reached the camp at km 63.4 at 4 pm. First 400 m of BB is easy as the forest is not overgrown. It's getting worse in the valley. If possible try to be close to the river. We were fording it multiple times. Finally we stayed at the left side of the river, bushbashing for the next 3 km (that's where the trail starts). We slept next to the ford at km 69.8.

We forded the river in the morning. It's possible, but the current was strong (for us it was the worst ford on this section with water above our knees - I'm 175 cm). After the next ford we followed 33H-E as we couldn't find the entrance to the RR. It's a very well maintained path with a big puesto nearby.

After fords at km 81 we followed 33H-H as we didn't want to cross the river anymore. For those of you, who are planning to go there during the next few days, be carefull - somewhere around km 91 there is a fresh dead cow near to the water.

The lake part's quite exhausting. We were blessed with sunny and windless weather so we found it astonishing and not so dangerous. We started our last day at camp km 113.8 . Ascent on the road (117.5) is ok and there was water on km 119.9 (small stream). The rest of the road walking is easy (with occasional fences) but there's no water on km 135.2 (water on 129.3 is hard to access).

We hitchhiked from km 136 to Puerto Ibanez. During the weekend there is only one ferry a day (Saturday morning and Sunday evening).

* '''8 to 13 of February 2023 / Will / SOBO from Laguna Verde / 6 data'''

This one was an ordeal for me, I don't recommend starting with a week straight of rain in the forecast. At first I appreciated the ambiance after six completely dry weeks in the north, but after a few days it started to get me down. Thankfully to keep my morale up I encountered some kind settlers, a few pairs of GPT hikers, and some sun in the final stretch.

The rains never got too heavy, generally off and on light rain. The temperatures were fairly cold from the nearly constant cloud cover.

To start out I hitched out of Villa Cerro Castillo to Laguna Verde, teaming up with some of the many hitchhikers. The initial road walk was beautiful, some podcasts helped me power through the rest.

The pass was tough in the rain, but manageable. Things were slippery but there's enough to grab onto in the boulder fields to keep you stable, as long as you're focused and moving slowly. The ascent was nice boulder field the whole way, on the decent things looked scarier. Instead of boulders there was a lot of large smooth slab with water flowing down. The gpx route there was good, following boulders and vegetation around the slab. Things only felt dangerous once, when I went slightly off the track and ended up trapped between a cliff and a water slide. After some scary experimentation I found that I could get good traction on the waterslide using a crab walk technique, on my back with hands and feet and butt all resting on the slab. This let me traverse the waterslide back to safety.

The little bush bashing section after the pass was easy, I camped in there. Things got bad again once I got back out to the river and the cross country+bush bashing marker. My feet got worryingly numb after a bunch of river crossings and marshland traversal, I tried to stick to the woods after that.

I then took two big questionable detours from the tracks, staying to the south of the rio avellano and avoiding crossing it all the way until I reached the lake. I'll quickly describe them here but they were both uncomfortable and not worth it unless the river is impassable. The cold and rain seem to damage my decision making quite a bit, I refused to backtrack or to take breaks to think things through.

To skip the crossing at 69.8 I stayed in the woods south of the river starting at around km 67.5. Initially nice cow path, followed by a tricky wooded boulder field, followed by a horrific stretch crawling over thorny bushes. Eventually I made my way up to the base of some cliffs where things got a bit easier. Following the cliffs I reached a cow path, leading to some open woods through which I rejoined the trail around km 70.5. Never thought I'd be so happy to find cow poop.

I dropped a blue and black stone bracelet somewhere before or during the 71.8 river crossing, let me know if you come across it!

Some of the minor streams merging into the river were tough to cross. 71.8 was up to my thighs with a strong current.

To skip the first major crossing of the Rio Avellano at 81.2 I followed some horse trail to the big white rock hill, and climbed to the top. The rock was super grippy even in the rain. I then traversed along the slope to the east, staying between an elevation of 700 and 750m. There was some cow path making it easier to walk, I wonder how they get up there. A few tough bushy sections descending and climbing out of crevasses/streams before I got to a gradual stream at -46.46385, -72.30601 which I scrambled down to the river.

I ran into the settlers Luis and Jaqueline at their house by the river. They generously took me in for the night and gave me a chance to dry out some of my stuff.

From there I followed option 4C down to the lake, hoping that the river crossing there would be less scary with the river fanned out wider. The option was decent trail over some low passes to the lake, though at times it was hard to follow. It's tough to choose where to cross the river because you can't see the bottom through the silt. I decided to cross near the gpx line where it was wide with lots of debris and sand bars to rest in between the channels. At the worst points it was crotch deep and powerful, the rocks under my feet sliding back from the force. Pretty scary.

I camped in the willow grove by campo chico, and the next day (Monday) I raced to the bus stop at 130.4. It turns out that the bus is now at 6pm, I got there just in time. I took the bus to Puerto Ibáñez and got straight on the 8pm ferry to Chile Chico.

A small cut on my ankle ended up getting infected, I'm now in town out of commission with a ton of swelling. Should have been more careful!

* '''Feb 12 Direct Route SOBO 1 day Frank'''

I walked straight from Villa Cerro Castillo to Puerto Ibanez in one long day. A few KM out on a dirt road there is a museum on your left & a short trail on the right which goes to some rock paintings. You pass by a lake with good views of Cerro Castillo. Salto Rio Ibanez waterfall is impressive.

*Helen and Craig + (Caro and Ali)
5th-10th February NoBo<- only direction to do it! So pretty!

almost got stung by the ferry from Chile chico. Make sure when you go to the office as the online booking doesn't seen to be working, that you specify your a foot passenger. And if they refuse ask to be put on the waiting list for the next ferry (which means you'll get on just fine) pretty sure you could probably just turn up and ask very nicely and they would let you across. Looked in to the boats from Carlos and Pascual to join 33 missing the coast section from levican but Carlos is not in the area at the moment and Pascuals boat is currently non functional, sad times but the coastal section I would have been sad to miss!

-Decided to do Torres del avellano northbound. Highly recommend doing it this way and thankyou to the others who pointed out this point before us. Veiws were great and much easier to get over the bolder scramble going up.

-We walked in a group of 4 so payed for a transfere to levican and a pick up from lago lapparent. 60,000 each time.
-Phone signal from Puerto del avellano to levican
-The river valleys of avellano and venti were incredibly beautiful to the south.
-Route was better marked and easier to navigate than exsepted. Very Easy going apart from km 68.7-62. if you've done GPT 40 or 37, then you'll find 33 delightfully a breeze. (We did have good weather, in bad weather even just a little rain I imagine a very diffence and worse exsperience)
-In the BB/CC river valley of Rio avellano walk on the north shore of the river rather than going to the south. The forest is mostly easily passable or can hop out to the river valley to walk more freely. The south side of the river is calf/ knee high swampy bush bashing which leads to very cold feet and frustration.
-keep eyes peeled for humels! We spotted a male humel on the bushbash/cross country section and had the most amazing sighting!

* '''22 to 26 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT33H RR SOBO / via GPT33H-03B / 4.5 days'''

Route: Villa Cerro Castillo - Laguna Verde (Río Alto valley) - Upper Río Avellano valley - Torres del Avellano viewpoint - Lower Río Avellano valley - Lago General Carrera - Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez

Simply beautiful section. Lots of excellent info is written about it in the Hiker's Manuel too. I only met 4 other hikers, with two of them being northbounding GPT hikers! Great to meet you, Yannic and Mirjam :)

From Villa Cerro Castillo I hitched easily on the Carretera Austral to Laguna Verde, where Option 3B begins. I wanted to cut some of the initial road walking because poor weather was incoming the next day and I wanted to try and beat it to have a chance at seeing the Torres. The road walk in the Río Alto valley was actually quite pleasant and scenic. There is a little self-registration booth across the road from the settler at km 30.8, where hikers are asked to "check in" before proceeding down the private road towards the Río Avellano valley. There is no charge.

The camp at 52.7 km is very nice with a little stream running through, lots of dead wood around to make a fire, and relatively sheltered. There is an old puesto/refuge there too that is open and has a fireplace. Could be a good spot to hole up if the weather is bad.

When you diverge from the Río Avellano valley to head up the pass, don't try and follow the GPS. Instead take the path of least resistance (or the path that looks the clearest) through the woods and across the rocks near the river. There are occasional cairns to mark the way too, although not always obvious to spot. Only the last cross-country section before the pass did I follow closely with the GPS, as it goes across a boulder field and the GPS line seemed to be the easiest way up to the pass.

On the south side of the pass is where you finally see the Torres del Avellano proper. Absolutely incredible, and I managed to get the great views only a couple of hours before the rain started and clouds engulfed everything.

I followed the GPS track closely going down through the granite boulder field, since it guided a safe way around the steeper cliffs. It was slow going down through the boulders, but it didn't feel unsafe as the rocks were grippy and solid.

The initial "bushbashing" segment at km 63.9 was very easy through a mature forest. I didn't follow the GPS here, just followed an old animal trail alongside a creek until it joined with Río Ventisquero. Again, the CC&BB section starting at km 64.4 was quite easy at first. I forded the river multiple times to walk along whichever side looked easier/less swampy. About midway through this section though it got tougher because Río Ventisquero got silty and the flow increased, so that I didn't want to ford it much anymore, so I stuck to the left (north) side of the river, mostly in the forest. There were some areas of unavoidable blowdowns and marshy terrain, and everything was wet from the rain coming down too.

When I reached the waypoint X, Ford at 69.8 km, I camped there for the night because Río Ventisquero was a torrent and looked unsafe to ford. There are a few nice, flat places to pitch a tent in this area, under large mature trees. Early the next morning, it was very cold and still raining, and I couldn't tell if the river had gone down at all or not. There was fresh snow higher on the mountaintops. I ended up fording the river slightly downstream from where the trail crosses it, and the water came up just below my hips (I'm 165 cm). The water is silty so you can't see the bottom, but the rocks underneath had surprisingly good traction, which I was grateful for because the current was strong.

It might be better to take Option 33H-E than the regular route. That trail looked well-maintained and clear, whereas the RR between 71.8 and 73.5 km was hard to follow and overgrown at times. There were no signs of life at the homestead of Maria and Julio when I passed through.

I was strategic when I forded Río Avellano at km 81.2, crossing multiple branches at their shallowest points. The water went midway up my thighs at the deepest point. Afterwards though I didn't want to cross it two more times, so I took Option 33H-H which stayed north of the river.

The refugio at km 98.5+0.2 on the shore of Lago General Carrera is nice and clean. There is a woodstove and some tables and chairs. It was crazy windy when I got there though, and I can't reccomend it as a good place to camp unless you sleep inside the refuge — the wind gusts were coming from all directions and there wasn't a spot that was sheltered outdoors. Further along the path at Campo Chico, there is a grove of mature willow trees that is probably a much better camp spot.

Very beautiful hiking along Lago General Carrera, but it was wildly windy for me that day. At times it was hard to stay on the trail due to the strong gusts trying to blow me off the path. Lots of water sources.

RH-MR&CC-V {33H} [19.5/118.0+4.6] is all minor road, no cross-country involved at all. I met the settler at km 121.8, he kindly let me pass through his property (and many gates) no problem.

I got to the minor road from Levican (waypoint at 130.4) at 7:40 a.m. on a Thursday. There is a little bus shelter there to protect from the wind. It was very cold and windy when I got there, and I waited until almost noon, hoping to hitch a ride. Not a single car passed by that whole time. So I resigned myself to the road walk, walked for about an hour in extremely windy conditions, and then a car finally came by and picked me up and drove me into Puerto Ibáñez :) Very grateful!!!

* '''2023 Jan / Yannic & Mirjam / Northbound'''

From Puerto Ibanez we made the first kilometres to junction 130.4 by car stop. Then we hiked on to Camp 113.4. We didn't stay at the location, but a little further ahead where the river flows into the lake. Along the lake was nice with a lot of ups and downs and then we camped somewhere on the side of the Minor Road. Along the Rio Avellano we stayed on the northern side so that we only had to cross the river once (at 81.2). The water came up to my waist (I am 180 cm). Surprisingly, there was another Ford at 69.8. Again, very strong current and loose ground, so it was difficult to find a good footing. Right after this Ford we spent the night in the forest.

On the climb at the start of the cross country section (at trailhead 68.5) be sure to get the right entry point as there are several small streams coming down the valley. We thought we saw a trail further into the forest that we could follow. Unfortunately, this was a mistake and led to us having to bush bash back onto the trail for a few hundred metres. In general, the trail was mostly better close to the river than deeper in the forest. The camping spot at the Torres was incredible and worth getting up for sunrise. The climb up the pass was very doable with the GPS tracks and not too difficult. On the other side of the pass, the trail got surprisingly good. We met a group of horses that were probably trekking to the lakes. Because the weather got worse, we took option 03 on the Carretera Austral and stopped at Ceroo Castillo.

*GPT section 33 7 days, 84 miles, 14K ft ascent Dec. 21 to 27, 2022 David and Erika NOBO

Ferry from Chili Chico runs just once a week (Mondays at 8:00 am) we missed it by hours and were stuck at the hotel California in Chili Chico for a day. “You can enter any time you like but you can never leave” got to be the feeling after residential bus after residential bus filled with residents and would not take us. Eventually got to Sierra Castillo and then hitched to Puerto Inginiero Ibanez. The tourist office there got her husband to give us a lift further 24 km to the end of the road. Well worth the 25,000 pesos. Road hike from there straightforward but new gates are being installed at the last road (NOBO) before you hit Lago General Carrera. Lots of wind. Last Refugio on the lake is legitimate. Good place to camp. Lower Rio Avellano was fordable. We thought we could avoid the 2nd and 3rd ford by taking the path over the hill. Don’t. It doesn’t go…Don’t worry, it gets worse. Ultimately, you’ll be hiking through the river all the way to Torres de Avellano. Note on that. The route takes you up to the lake. Beautiful, but then you go through a 2 km boulder field. We found the start of a trial before exiting the river that seems to lead right up to the pass. Might go, we don’t know. Instead, we took the boulder route, broke through a snow bridge, and put a deep gauge in Erika’s leg. Could have used stiches but had no sutures. Might be worth investigating.

*'''2022 Nov, NoBo, Option 1, Alice and Florian'''

We chose to do the option 1 taking the sendero de chile from Puerto Ibañez to Cerro castillo. Most of it is a trail road (first 25km, and the last 4) so it is quite tiring for the knees as some point. But it seems quite easy to do hitchhiking at least on the first 25 km if needed. Nevertheless it is quite a nice road. You first arrive to a very nice waterfall after 5km, them walk through a canyon with nice scenic views. The 10km pass through a forest trail near lakes, it is really nice as well.

* '''2022 Nov / GPT33H Option 11 and Parts of Regular Route / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

GPT33H/GPT34P: Northern coast of Lago General Carrera from Puerto Sanchez to Levican (packrafting and hiking)

From 2022-Nov-20 to 2022-Nov-24 we (Meylin Ubilla, Jan Dudeck) packrafted and hiked in 5 days from Puerto Sanchez to Levican along the northern coast of Lago General Carrera.

This lake is infamous for the frequent strong gusty wind, therefore packrafting requires a careful monitoring of the weather to depart only onto the lake when a period with calmer conditions is approaching. Luckily, there is reasonable good mobile phone coverage what facilities checking the weather and wind forecast frequently.

Given the wind conditions any packrafting attempt on Lago General Carrera requires to my opinion:

- decked packraft, a longer tandem is strongly preferable (faster, more stable) - a sail (to get quicker to an exit point) - packrafting experience in the region (to anticipate typical weather and wind patterns) - smartphone with entel SIM card or entel rooming - YR weather App, Windy weather App

The predominant wind is eastbound therefore only eastbound packrafting is advisable.

I’m left with the impression that wind gets generally stonger towards the east (towards Levican and Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez) and that calm periods are more frequent and longer towards the west (Puerto Tranquilo, Puerto Sanchez).

Also, calmer conditions are more likely in the early morning just after sunrise but strong wind all night is also common.

During a previous hike in February 2020 we experienced an entire summer day with barely any wind but such days are as frequent as unicorns and no travel plan should be build on exceptional favorable circumstances.

There is a trail along the northern shore but due to the steep coast there are sections of up to 13 km on the lake without a connection from the shoreline to this trail.

Emergency exits are more frequent along the coast but using such an exit means waiting for the wind to calm down what can take days. Therefore it is generally favorable to exit the water only in a location from where the trail can be reached easily.

We packrafted most of the distance from Puerto Sanchez to the Avellano river delta on 3 mornings in about 9 hours on the water but from there we hiked in two days to Levican because we had no similar promising calm weather windows in following early mornings. In hindsight the wind remained manageable in the morning hours till about noon but there was no point in reversing our decision to hike (and we urgently needed some exercise to get used to hike with heavy backpacks again).

Crossing from Puerto Tranquilo to Puerto Sanchez is reasonable feasible by packraft in calm weather (typically either very early in the morning or later in the evening). The crossing is 3 km wide and best started 1 km north of Puerto Tranquilo in a hidden bay with a nice protected spot to pitch a tent (46.6146°S / 72.6838°W · 210 m). If preparing the packraft at the beach of Puerto Tranquilo officials may stop packrafters as there are numerous restrictions and requirements applicable (in example accompanying motor boat with two licensed boat drivers).

Packrafters should depart in north-eastern direction to compensate for a south-eastern wind drift in case wind increases.

A very nice protected camp site is approximately 8 km from the recommended exit point near Puerto Tranquilo.

GPT33H: Bus Levican - Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez

The last 26 km from Levican to Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez are rather dull road walking. Therefore hikers that arrive at the right day and time can take the subsidized bus.

Monday and Friday only: 08:00 Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez -> Levican 09:00 Levican -> Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez 18:00 Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez -> Levican 19:00 Levican -> Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez Price: 1000 CLP

Transport at other times can be arranged for a substantially higher cost (estimated 40‘000 to 60‘000 CLP per vehicle).

Paty: +56 9 9506 3176

Luis: +56 9 8648 4075

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022 Feb: 10-14, SoBo, RR, Kris&Stiina'''

Even though the first few days out of town is a road walk, the first part of it is actually really scenic and worth walking, the lakes are just very beautiful one the way. The second part was mostly in the forest and our feet, knees and hips were already hurting from all the road walking but once we got on trail it got better right away. The trail was surprisingly well maintained I would even say better than in Cerro Castillo National Park. Another unexpected surprise was the amount of people that we met on the trail a total of about 25 people in different size groups were hiking to see Torres de Avellano. We really didn’t expect that, there also seemed to be some sort of backpack hauling and guiding service that the local arrieros were offering. We unfortunately didn’t manage to talk to them to find out, but it seems that the place is getting popular. Which is not a surprise because it’s very very beautiful there, probably is correct what the manual says, that it’s going to be the next Torres del Paine, time will tell.

On day 3 about 2-3km before the pass the trail disappeared and the going got tougher and tougher, mostly just bolder hopping up and over the pass. The descent was pretty steep on large granite slabs which offered plenty of good grip but I am not sure how well would it work in wet conditions. I think the pass is doable in not good weather conditions but only if one feels very confident in own abilities on wet rocks. Also it’s a good idea to follow the gps on the way down because otherwise you end up on a cliff edge and have to track back up. The ground finally eases up once you enter the forest, but then starts the bushwhacky part all the way until ford/div at 69,7km.

That was as far as we could make it that day because the river was pretty fast in the evening. So we decided to camp right there and cross it in the morning when the flow would be a bit more manageable and our decision payed off. In the morning the river was about 10cm lower than the evening before, so if you ar a shorter person it could save you. The flow was pretty strong and water was still about hips deep. Both of us crossed it together by standing in a line, me in front and Stiina supporting me from behind, it worked great. After that it was easy cruising for the next 32km, however we had to cross that river once again at 81,2km. It was still challenging but we managed to do it the traditional way one by one, facing upstream. But the current was still very strong and pushing our feet out from under us, challenging our balance. After that we didn’t want to cross it two more times as gps suggested so we just stayed on the left coast all the way to the lake. There were some cow trails to follow and also to bypass the cliffs it was no problem.

The lake is really beautiful with all the islands and it wasn’t too windy when we arrived. We camped about a kilometer from Campo Chico on the rocky stream bed and managed to cook on the fire that night without causing fire hazard. And there were apple, pear and plum trees at the 98,3km, plums were very ripe but the apples and pears still need a week or two to get ready, but it was a very nice treat nevertheless.

Next day was Monday which meant that we could avoid the 26km road walk at the end of the section which we were determined to do. We had 30km to goto get to the road junction were the bus is passing by and according to the manual the bus would pass there some time after 20:00 which is when it starts from Levican. So we pushed the whole day over the steep, sandy, bushy terrain and made it to the junction by 19:00, great, we thought. But after bus didn’t show up we called the phone nr that Janna & Matthias had provided and it turned out that the bus actually leaves Levican at 18:00 and is long gone. But the bus driver was nice enough to offer us a ride to Puerto Ibañez, however for a hefty 45.000 pesos. We were out of food, out of water and pretty spent from getting ourselves there so we accepted the offer. The car ride showed that it would be a pretty dull road walk aswell if we would have had to do it so in the end it all worked out and we got to town just as we wanted.

The town was a bit disappointing, people were somehow not very helpful and also all accommodations were full, but we managed to camp at Las Cabañitas about a km out of town. The next day we went to the port to catch the ferry to Chile Chico, but due to strong winds all ferries were canceled and nobody could even give us a guess of when the ferries would restart. We didn’t want to spend another day in Puerto Ibañez so we hitched back to Villa Cerro Castillo in hopes to get bus or a hitch around the lake. There are definitely daily buses to Cochrane.

In the end our plans changed and we decided that we are content with our experience on GPT this season, so we left it at that. Thanks for kicking our butts GPT and showing us beauty we haven’t seen before! :)

For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* '''GPT 33H Option 4 (Puerto Cristal)/ Torres de Avellano/ Packrafting Route / 2022 Feb-4 / 7 days / Tobias Schorcht and Jonas Grünewald'''

I started Packrafting from Puerto Tranquilo to Puerto Sanches in the calm morning hours. Since Jonas doesn‘t have a Packraft, we booked a full Marvel Caves Tour by boat for him and asked the Captain, to leave him in Puerto Sanches, which was possible without any extra paying. We hiked northbounded along Lago Vidal Gormez and visited the left behind abandoned village Puerto Cristal. It was an impressive experience to see the old facilities of the Mining Company! The good visible trail is partly overgrown with spiky bushes and contains a lot of altitude. We have been rewarded with stunning views on the Lago General Carrera and recommend this option anyway. We went up to the Torres with good weather knowing, that some wind and rain have been predicted for the night. It took us many hours to cross the valley (-46,43300, -72,48867) because we mainly followed the “cow-trails” through the forest and wetland (as an alternative to walk up the river). We reached the camp (-46,42178, -72,50672) late and sheltered the spot with rocks against the wind. You are welcome to use our cozy spot free of charge 😉. Took the trail from the Torres down to Cerro Castillo without difficulties.

We have to say, that this part of the GPT was challenging but absolutely worth the struggle.

Disfrutas las cosas 🙏

* '''NoBo, January 2022, 6.5 days, Participants: Janna & Matthias'''

Day 1: We took the ferry from Chile Chico to Puerto Ibañez (ferry schedule online).There still runs a government-subsidised bus (+56 9 89448847) between Puerto Ibañez and Levicàn on Mondays and Fridays at 8am & 5pm (summer). We decided to spend the afternoon rain relaxing at the pizzeria in Puerto Ibañez and then catch the bus. We called and found out that the bus stop is now in front of the Supermercado Jelvez. The driver let us off at Div 130.4/311 at about 6pm ($1000 per person cash) and we hiked for another hour or so. At bridge 129.3/304 you cannot get water (a kind of gorge), maybe at the marked "Water?" about 15min downstream. We had enough with us and camped sheltered from the wind between the monoculture trees (S 46.377764 W 71.922459).

Day 2: We continued through / over many gates and past empty houses down to the water. Attention if NoBo: at gate 122.6/628 there are two gates - the GPT splits behind the left one, so take that one. The first water before the lake and two good camps at the lake are marked. The path along Lago Carrera was easy to find, sandy and rough in places but we could follow old riders' tracks. We really enjoyed the fantastic view over the lake and had a tábano-free time thanks to the strong wind. About 2 km before Campo Chico (S 46.478295 W 72.086034) we found a west wind-protected and very nice camping spot.

Day 3: Further camping possibilities would be as already described on wikiexplora at Campo Chico and at Puerto Avellano. Along the lake there are streams/rivers for drinking water every 1-2h. There is a wild apple tree on the trail here: S 46.487073 W 72.102247 in case you come by at the right time of year. After Puerto Avellano there is about 15km of a former mine road that is easy to follow. We had a wonderful view of the mountains the whole day. The first two Fords are easy to pass with little water. Water sources again every 1-2h. Our camp 3 was here: S 46.457910 W 72.299412 - beautiful, next to the water, sheltered from the wind.

Day 4: Ford-day - in total we forded rivers more than 20 times, all of them were easy to knee deep except Río Avellano at 81.2/490 which reached almost to our hips and required a lot of effort. We met and chatted with settler Maria who was on her way to have some work done. At Div/Ford 69.7/634 the mountain peaks remained hidden in the clouds and the weather forecast was not so sparkling why we opted for the bypass (option 2) which is also very nice to walk with imposing mountain massifs on both sides, enchanted fairytale forests, a waterfall and easy-to-find cow tracks. Only the large swamp around S 46.386387 W 72.422623 was very unpleasant and foul-smelling, about shin deep. It may be worth looking for a path along the water there. Camp 4: S 46.371434 W 72.432519, quiet and nice under curious observation of two horses on the other side of the river.

Day5: At Div 54.5/841 we checked the weather again but as it still looked bad and everything in the valley further up was already in fog we finally decided against the Torres. At this Div there was an unmarked Ford when coming from option 2. If NoBo hiking directly after this Div take the path higher up the hill and not the marked route directly along the water, because the latter is slipped and to climb. At Puesto 53.0/946 (if NoBo) do not go through the gate but continue on the east side. A Horse Trail runs along the eastern edge of Mallin Grande. Our Camp 5 was here: S 46.281253 W 72.436128.

Day 6: Continued on the gravel road, passing many settlers and pastures. The Estero Alto flows much lower than the road, there is water at Bridge 25.7/454 and otherwise only at the lakes. There is a fence almost everywhere to the left and right of the road. To get to Camp 16.9+0.3/598 you have to climb over a locked gate (S 46.178222 W 72.312583). The two buildings in the pasture are a ruin (S 46.182635 W 72.311414) and a stable (S 46.183119 W 72.310509).

Day 7: Continued along the gravel road we almost missed Div 5.5/554 where a sandy path continues. The path is blocked by a wire fence at S 46.143124 W 72.184071 but a little further to the right you can slip through. No problems to get to Villa Cerro Castillo

==Season 2020/21==

* '''February 2021 from Bahía Murta to Torres del Avellano to Carretera Austral / Northbound, 5 days. Valle Resfalín/Resfalón (Option 8) + Mirador Torres del Avellano + Regular Hike + Escape to Carretera Austral (Option 3B) + Hitchhiking to Villa Cerro Castillo'''

Day 1: Bahia Murta to Camp #5 (Camp ? @33H-08-#005) / 11.5 km / 6 hours

The hike started at Bahía Murta, on a steep hillside. We used the GPS tracks to find the path, and from there on it’s pretty easy to follow the path (when in doubt, we checked the GPS). It’s a very nice hike, and at the end of the day it’s necessary to cross the river. We both had trekking sandals, which came in handy every time we had to cross a river. Just after the river there is a camp option. We found a nice spot on the other side of the wooden fence, but there are many more options up the small hill. It was a perfect place for sleeping, with the soothing sound of the river.

Day 2: Camp #5 (Camp ? @33H-08-#005) to Regular Route at Mallín Quemado (Camp ? @33H-08-#010) / 11.7 km / 8 hours

This was one of the longest days for us, mainly because we underestimated how much time it takes to walk through a path that’s been reclaimed by nature. The day started with a steep uphill, where we lost the path for a while and then had to check the GPS to find it again. There are streams on the way where it’s possible to refill the water bottles. About a third way in, at (-46.38537, -72.55201), the path collapsed, probably washed out by the river. We took a look around and decided it was way safer to cross the river than to continue on the collapsed path (it was late February, so the river was not so full). We crossed to the other side, and 100m ahead crossed back. This is definitively the trickiest part of the day (although a bit farther ahead we found ourselves in the middle of a caterpillar forest...not really pleasant). Just after the crossing the are two camp sites (Camp ? @33H-08-#008 and Camp ? @33H-08-#009), but we would recommend keep going as the second part of the day is definitively easier than the first. Farther ahead we found two more camp site options: at (-46.36768, -72.53116) on this side of the river and at (-46.36722, -72.53088) on the other side of the river. We considered sleeping there, because we were exhausted, but in the end we decided to keep going as we still had some hours of daylight left. This was the right choice, because that way we could sleep at Mallín Quemado and then the next day do the day trip to Torres del Avellano. Mallín Quemado is the name the locals use for the big forest area that was “burned” by the ashes of Volcan Hudson. It’s near (Puesto @33H-53.0) and it’s a perfect place for sleeping. We decided to boil the water from the small stream, because there were some cattle grazing around.

Day 3: Camp #10 (Camp ? @33H-08-#010) to Mirador Laguna y Torres del Avellano and back to Camp #10 / 7.1 km (each way) / 3 hours (each way)

We started early and with a lot of motivation to go and see the Torres del Avellano. Sadly the day was a bit cloudy, but nonetheless it was totally worth it: the views from up there are breathtaking! A lot of glaciers and superstreams with the purest water you can ask for. When we arrived back at the camp, we met the first person in 3 days: Francisco, a teacher from Puerto Aysen. He came up the other way, from Villa Cerro Castillo, and was planning on going to Torres del Avellano on the next day, and then head back to Villa Cerro Castillo.

Day 4: Camp #10 (Camp ? @33H-08-#010) to Camp at (-46.26244, -72.35118) / 21.6 km / 8 hours

Another long day, but without any difficult parts. This section of the hike is way more popular than Valle Resfalín/Resfalón, so the path is way easier to follow. The first section, until the car road, is really beautiful. We even saw some (semi) wild horses! We knew that once the car road started there wouldn’t be so many camp site options, so we kept our eyes open. The car road goes through a narrow valley, and then comes a steep down hill. At the bottom of the hill, on the left side, there is a small meadow, where it’s possible to pitch a tent (-46.26244, 72.35118). Water is available 100m down a steep hill.

Day 5: Camp at (-46.26244, -72.35118) to Carretera Austral / 14.8 km / 4 hours

Following the main car road to Carretera Austral it’s impossible to get lost. We didn’t find any stream on the way, but in case of needing water there are many houses. Just be sure to ask nicely :) Once on the Carretera Austral we hitchhiked to Villa Cerro Castillo. We only had to wait for 30 minutes to get a ride, and considering that we did this during covid times...not too bad. We also had the backup plan of Francisco, who would be driving to Villa Cerro Castillo later that day. Funny enough, we ran into Francisco by chance in Villa Cerro Castillo and he invited us to an ice cream. It was a nice way of ending the trip.

We are extremely grateful to Jan and all the people from wikiexplora for making this adventure possible!

==Season 2019/20==

*'''Section 33: RR(New!) from Ibáñez. Exit via Option 8 to Bahía Murta.'''
Westbound. 11 days. Party (3): Mum, Sis and I.

Ibáñez y Península Levican: Continuing our extended stay in Chile we caught a government subsidised bus from Cerró Castillo to Ibáñez where we learnt after a somewhat lengthy process: talking to the ticket office, boat personnel and then the carabineros (an officer and then his jefe!), everyone passing the buck; that without a certificado de salud (not available in town, and only online) we couldn't board the vessel. The upside was that the Naviera Austral had fantastic baños (yes! they were open!) and the cleaning lady let us have a quick body wash and even do a little laundry before she had to close up. There was also limited WiFi connectivity (only WhatsApp would work) and powerpoints where we could charge our things. It also happens that we bumped into a Zulema Amoroz who was born in Fachinal, most likely a relative of Carloz Amoros who offers the boat service from Fachinal across the lake (we contacted him but no boats were allowed on the lake). If you hang around near where the ferry docks you might find her selling coffee and alfajores.

We quickly decided to walk the new Section 33 Jan recently published, but end in Bahía Murta instead (i.e. explore option 8). Some effort was exhausted trying to organise a lift out to Península Levican. We did find someone for $30k, (it seemed a little steep but that's roughly what to expect), but it wouldn't be till the following day and we needed to get out of town to spend the night. We stocked up on food and started out on foot on the old RR (now Option 1) camping before we reached Río Ibáñez.

I had a little concern about water on the way to Levican, but there are two or three good streams along the way: (-46.31022, -71.97272) (-46.32470, -71.96457) (-46.34091, -71.94069)

In Puerto Ray a lady (also named Zulema!) warmed up to us and let us camp in her fruit orchard. In the morning we bought some eggs and 'bread' from them. Her husband was tanning a chivo hide; he had such a jolly step!

Along Lago General Carrera: We went back to the junction (Div Levican @33H-131.4) where a good emergency shelter exists. The road is still very clear from here, but don't expect any traffic. I think it was a rare sight that we saw an old Mercedes truck full of wood lumbering (pun intended ;) out. The rd deviates a little from the track files maybe due to the pine plantations. There are many new rds., so take care you don't go the wrong way. Taking the RR you will pass through a locked gate (-46.38234, -71.96692), after this keep an eye out for a gate on the left. It's not in the track files and we didn't look for it, so maybe it's not there. The issue we had was that the road continues up the hill, deviating from the RR around (-46.38448, -71.97642). Here you should already be on the small road on the other side of the fence (someone traveling towards Levican/Ibáñez will find this easier to scope I imagine). Though it's not recommended to cross fences, we carefully crossed instead of heading back. A very minor Rd continues down to a dilapidated puesto and a couple of portóns. The road didn't seem to continue as indicated in the track files... but I wasn't following my gps. We CCed across a field until we encountered another road that led back to the RR.

You will finally encounter your first reliable water source since Levican (-46.40196, -71.97831), especially if you are heading towards Ibáñez, make sure you fill up here!

The two camps in the track files at km117 and km114 were the best we saw. The next obvious choice would be around Campo Chico I think, quite a bit further along. Plenty of water along the lake and we had plenty of apples seeing we were walking so late in the walking season. Amazing autumn colours! The track is also in good shape, someone had very recently 'cleaned' the way! The refugio at Los Álamos was a very welcome sight, a great place to spend a night (it's there because of the high winds possible on the lake). The nearby settler was resonably friendly and his dog Puestero even more so! He told us that it was him who 'cleaned' the track along Lago General. It made our walking so much easier! Thanks Armando!

Valle Avellano y Ventisquiero: The old mining road through Valle Avellano was easy to follow. The road actually continues significantly further than indicated in the track files. Taking Variation F to avoid extra crossings of the river we found the road ended about here: (-46.45730, -72.30207). There is an unmarked ford here: (-46.46107, -72.24636)

We took Variation D and just caught Maria and Julio before they headed out with their kids on a horse ride. We bought some bread from them. They called it a tortilla, but I think my Mexican friends would strongly argue the point ;)

Easy walking up into Valle Ventisquiero. Read Jan's track notes. They are quite thorough. The trail to remeet Río Avellano is a little unused (also as mentioned in his write up), but easy to follow. Some good camping before the river. We met some gouchos using the puesto, they were not overly friendly; I think a little scared because of the virus. They pointed out a nearby shelter we could use made from a very old technique using U-shaped logs (I met a carpenter in Murta who told me a little about it).

Option 8: Valle Resbalín/Resfalón(?): It was snowing in the morning. We decided to take Option 8 to Bahía Murta. This meant less road walking and involved a part marked as 'I' (investigation) which would be nice to document. It appears that this route down Valle Resbalín (or "Resfalón" as some locals in Murta told me it was named... anyone know?) is no longer used; quite overgrown, vague and in places difficult to detect at all. Sometimes all we could see was the occasional chainsawed log; and in some chutes: machete marks. Water was plentiful. There was a very old but partially functional puesto en route.

There is a junction ('div') here: (-46.37495, -72.53695). The trail heading up the side valley actually looked quite distinct. I'm not sure what it's name is, or what's up there, but the water was a nice glacier blue and it had a higher flow than the 'main' named river.

The only tricky spot to find the track was where it was washed away by the river, about here: (-46.38527, -72.55201). I cut steps in the bank, crossed, and dropped a rope down for the others. It would be much safer to walk in the river. We explored options to bypass via skirting around in the bosque, but they didn't seem practical. The nearby camp site marked in the track files (Camp ? @33H-08-#008) is not really good. Better to camp 200m upstream If camping around here. We camped at the confluence with Estero Sur, which is the best spot to camp we saw in the entire valley. From this point down the valley, the track is in use: plenty of fresh signs of cattle (maybe they graze in the side valleys?). Ford Estero Sur (-46.39815, -72.58224) and follow the track down the valley with ease. There is camping at (Camp ? @33H-08-#004) but better 300m down the valley near a corral. 50m down valley of (Camp ? @33H-08-#002) camping is possible next to the vague ruins of an old puesto. Further down the valley are several grassy areas good for camping, the most obvious is here (-46.43778, -72.65597) in the vicinity of the old puesto. The track (as opposed to Rd) continues much further than indicated in the track files. The road only starts about here (-46.44697, -72.66655) once you are nearly in Murta. We rested a full day in Murta and I happened to run into Felepé who we'd meet before the trip in Cerró Castillo. Loco!

Thanks Jan for making this trip possible, Tobias Hellwig for recommending the reroute, and all the people on wikiexplora who explored and documented the tracks.

If anyone has any information on the history of Valle Resbalín/Resfalón(?), the mining prospectors in Valle Avellano, or the settlers that abandoned the coast of Lago General Carrera, I'd love to read a bit.

I hope this helps someone. Thanks!

Oh! and we're back in Cochrane now and planning to be in Coyhaique in a week or so. Cheers.

* '''BE AWARE THAT THE BELOW LOGS refer to Option 1 and not to the new Regular Route:'''
Until 2019 the Regular Route followed the Sendero de Chile in the vicinity of Rio Ibañez what is now Option 1. Tobias Hellwig suggested to reroute the GPT via the Torres de Avellano to incorporate this hidden treasure. This proposed new route was investigated and documented in February 2020 by the founders of the GPT. By this time multiple segments of this new route were already published on Wikiexplora by other authors. Only the route from Kilometer 62.2 to 69.9 remained undocumented and had to be researched and ground-proved.

* '''10 Mar 2020 / RH SOBO / Ty / 1 day'''

Super easy in general. I was able to get a hitch for like the last 10 kilometers. There’s a lot of different trail you can wander off on at the start of the sendero de Chile, so just be aware of your navigation at the start. The only good easily accessible water I found was between the two lakes before the intersection where you start walking the road. The ferry to Chile Chico leaves around 8 and takes a couple hours. Otherwise the next ferry leaves at 11 am....but make sure to confirm these times yourself. When arriving in Chile Chico, I climbed up to the viewpoint/mirador close to the ferry landing and found a place protected on the wind and slept on the ground. There is also an abandoned house marked in I-overlander that has an area in a room big enough for a 2 person tent. It’s on your right just before the climb up to the mirador.

* '''Jan 2020 / RH Northbound / Matthieu / 2 days'''

No technical difficulties on this part. However, I was stopped, when the GPT leave the road to go between the two lakes, by a sign : área protegida, ingreso no permitido. For me, it was cristal clear, so I just continued the road, disappointed. I spoke to one of the settler not far, who told me that it was only for cars and it s ok for walkers, and that it is part of the "Sendero de Chile". So the way seems open finally. Anyway, there is another little path just before the lago Ardillas that goes north, and join the GPS tracks above the Valley Ibanez. Well maintained, in the hills, lots of cows, good experience.

* '''2019 Jan/ Olrik / Northbound'''

From Ibanez you walk on a dirt road to the entrance of a Reserva Natural. You are on the Sendero de Chile so it is well marked. In the reserva the trail is easy to follow and there was no one. You end up in Cerro Castillo. We did it in 2.5 days but could be done in 1 day if beginning early.

* '''2019-Nov-28/ Lea Geibel/ 1 day / Northbound / Regular Hiking Route (Puerto Ibañez to Villa Cerro Castillo)'''

After arriving with the ferry at 10.30 a.m., the section can be hiked in one day (around 8 hours of walking). Most of the section is on a dirt road with very little traffic. The part that is following a trail is marked with posts with red / white rings on them. Occasionally the trail is not very visible but numerous animals tracks are usually heading in the right direction before eventually meeting up with a trail marker again.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*2025 / Michael & Kasia:
If entering or exiting via Opt 8 or Opt 4, Bahía Murta (Puerto Murta) has several places that rent cabañas or camping space. There are at least 5 shops in town. The two largest both had tall skinny gas recharge canisters (Minimercado Gemaniar 3.000, Minimercado Estribo 4.000), but no screw type for backpacking stoves. Minimarket Gemaniar across from the tourist information office had generally the best prices and a good selection. The panadería across from the plaza had good pan amasado.

*Section GPT33H starts in Villa Cerro Castillo and terminates in Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez (Resupply information see GPT34H). Hikers that continue southbound may also resupply in Chile Chico after the ferry crossing of Lago General Carrera (Resupply information see GPT35).

*Several shops sell food and camping gas canisters.

*Restaurants offer filling meals.

*Accommodation is provided by hostels, cabañas and camp sites in these towns.

*Hikers that walk GPT33H and its adjacent sections with continuous footsteps can resupply in Cerro Castillo, Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez and Chile Chico and do not need to leave the route to resupply.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*There is no plannable resupply along the entire Regular Route but some food may be obtained at the two homestead farms on the route.

[Settler (Maria & Julio) @33H-76.9]: Maria and Julio are one of the few settlers that still make cheese for sale in such a remote location. If you are short on foot you might also ask if they may sell some bread, milk or meat.

[Settler (Luis Diaz) @33H-85.2]: Luis : When passing his home consider a visit. You may also ask if he has bread or meat to sell.

[Puesto @33H-98.5]: The puesto 250 m north of Puerto Avellano is rarely occupied by their owners but the fruit trees might provide some well desired vitamins in summer and early autumn.

=Transport to and from Route=

*2025 / MiaimZelt
Subsidized bus between Puerto Ibañez and Levican every Monday & Friday: Ibañez/levican 8:15 & 17:00, Levican/ibañez 9:00 & 18:00.
Transportes Freddy Morales (+56 9 9506 2906)

*2023 / Maks&Gabi
We hitchhiked from km 136 near Levican to Puerto Ibanez. During the weekend there is only one ferry a day (Saturday morning and Sunday evening).

*2023 / Louis, Rémi & Noé :
Here, at the lake. There is mobile coverage and so we contacted numerus given on the PDF on WhatsApp to find a boat to bring us back to civilisation. I let you the contact of Jairo, that can bring you back to Puerto Tranquilo... for 400.000 CLP.. Jairo : +56 9 6633 9507

*Most buses to Villa Cerro Castillo leave Coyhaique in the morning around 08:00 and pass Villa Cerro Castillo approximately 1:30 hours later. In the opposite direction buses pass Cerro Castillo in the early afternoon.

*Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez has regular public transportation to Coyhaique (1:45 hour by bus) and Chile Chico (2:15 hour by ferry). The ferry over Lago General Carrera that connects Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez with Chile Chico does two round trips each day, one in the morning and one the evening. Buses to and from Coyhaique operate synchronized to these ferries.
Best Call Buses Alejandro: +56 9 7652 9546

*Subsidized bus from Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez to Levicán: Monday and Friday, Approx. 1’000 CLP Morning round trip: Leaving Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez at 08:00, arriving in Levican around 09:00 and returning immediately to Ibañez around 09:00 and arriving at Ibanez around 10:00. Evening round trip: Leaving Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez at 17:00, arriving in Levican around 18:00 and returning to Ibañez at 18:00 arriving at Ibanez at 19:00.

*Private transport from Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez to Levicán: Anytime, Approx. 35´000 CLP
Try to call Luis: +56 9 8648 4075

*Combining GPT35 with GPT33H

Northbound hikers may consider connecting GPT35 directly with GPT33H by exiting Parque Patagonia towards Fachinal and crossing Lago General Carrera by motorboat from Fachinal to the Desembocadura Rio Avellano. Here Lago General Carrera is only 3.5 km wide and a motorboat crossing does not take more than 20 minutes. Unfortunately, in summer this requires some patience as the normally strong wind often impedes this. In the morning or the evening the wind occasionally calms down but rarely during the day.

Carlos Amoroz, a settler in Fachinal owns a motorboat and offers this service on request. Pascual Diaz, a tour operator from Mallin Grande, can also provide this service but he must first haul his motorboat the 42 km on trailer from Mallin Grande to Fachinal what makes his service substantially more expensive.

Settler with motorboat in Fachinal (Location: -46.5568°S / -72.2120°W) Name: Carlos Amoroz Mobile: +56-9-76267029 Price: Approx. 30’000 CLP for 2 persons

Tour operator with motorboat in Mallin Grande Name: Pascual Diaz (Company: “Kalem Patagonia”) Mobile: +56-9-7391 7881 Price: Presumably more expensive and advance notice required

This section combination of GPT35 with GPT33H seems more practical in northbound direction as hikers can first talk directly to the settler with the motorboat in Fachinal, resupply in Chile Chico (by taking a motorized transport from Fachinal to Chile Chico and back) and then cross Lago General Carrera with a refilled backpack. While waiting for the wind to calm down hikers can pitch their tent at a nice wind protected camp site on the shore of Lago General Carrera.

Thanks to the reasonably good mobile phone coverage in Fachinal hikers can check the weather and wind forecast and call the settler with the motorboat when approaching Fachinal. This permits hikers to anticipate or discard a motorboat crossing on arrival.

Hikers that attempt a more complicated southbound crossing of Lago General Carrera should make arrangements with the settler with the motorboat at least one or two weeks before arriving at Puerto Avellano, test communication devices (i.e. InReach to mobile phone), agree on the precise pick-up location (Puerto Avellano or Desembocadura Rio Avellano) and carry enough food to wait some time in Puerto Avellano. Hikers should be prepared that the wind may not calm down while waiting several days in Puerto Avellano. In this case the motorboat transfer should canceled, and the hiker should walk out to Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez before the food reserves deplete. There is mobile phone coverage at Puerto Avellano (entel if I recall correctly).

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*To my knowledge paddling on Lago General Carrera requires a permit from the Armada de Chile but complying with all requirements might not be possible even for a well equipped packrafter (i.e. distress signal rockets).

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT33H - Puerto Ibañez]]

Retired Section Article [[GPT33H - Torres del Avellano]]

For additional information see the Wikiexplora Articles:

[[Península de Levican - El Avellano]]

[[Torres del Avellano]]

[[Laguna La Plaza]]

For more information see the Wikiexplora Article:

[[Puerto Cristal]]

For more information see the Wikiexplora Articles:

[[Valle Miller]]

[[Estero Jaramillo]]

A part of this route is described in the Wikiexplora Article:

[[Mirador Este de las Torres de Avellano]]

=Images=

GPT31H (Valle Simpson)

2025-02-27T12:31:45Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT23 (PN Lago Puelo)

2025-02-25T15:52:20Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT26 (Carrenleufu)

2025-02-25T15:48:50Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT29H (Rio Cisnes)

2025-02-25T15:44:35Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT30H (Coyhaique)

2025-02-25T15:32:27Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT30H (Coyhaique)

2025-02-25T15:31:57Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT28H (La Tapera)

2025-02-25T15:28:44Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT27H (Lago Palena)

2025-02-22T10:42:33Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT24H (PN Los Alerces Tierra)

2025-02-12T01:29:44Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT25H (Aldea Escolar)

2025-02-12T01:27:50Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT25H (Aldea Escolar)

2025-02-12T01:26:13Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT25H (Aldea Escolar)

2025-02-12T01:19:53Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT22 (Cochamo)

2025-01-30T01:52:46Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
* General advice : The Regular Route is best hiked between December and April. The primary obstacles are high river levels early in the season and after rain. During the peak period of January and February it may be difficult to obtain a camping reservation at La Junta which could prevent a southbound traverse (but people were usually let through when they say they go all the way to El Arco).

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''2025-01-25 to 2025-01-27 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO (partly) / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''

* Primer Coral has a very nice campspot. Chance there will be kayakers around doing the upper section of Rio Puelo with class 5 rapids you can watch them paddle it, it's insane.

* I heard there is a cabin you can stay up on Río Ventisquero would be a nice option and you can leave part of your gear/food at the camping. And do an overnight trip. Rio Ventusquero supposed to be very nice.

* I was lucky to go with another group of Kayakers into the Rio Puelo and into the rapids at the Canyon. I had no whitewater experience but the camping owner convinced me it was doable and safe even if I fall. It was nice to paddle the Canyon and the waves felt huge. I had a decked packraft that still filled with water, which was nice and made it more stable.

* So if you are here and get the chance on going with a group of Kayakers into the Canyon and rapids , it will be a nice experience

* First I would continue after the rapids and the pickup would take my backpack. But I decided to go back with the pickup to Primer Coral and continue next day towards Argentinia.

* First part of the trail from primer coral to Lago de Las Rocas is closed the settler there told me. You can join the trail from road V723. But I went from Lago Azul.

- The trail (blue line) towards Lago Azul already started earlier. * From the road at you left side there is already a sign with trail towards Lago Azul.

* Lago de Las Rocas went fast with wind in the back.

* I had to stay at the border crossing because they only had electricity at 7 p.m. to register me. Next morning from 8.00 I could pick up my passport. I did not fill in am online form beforehand and that was no problem.

* I went to the Argentinian border crossing that is indicated at the map. But because I was with a boat they did not let me. I had to get my passport stamped at the maritime office at the end of the lake at the beach of lago Puelo. So if you decide to skip lago Puelo/El Bolson than you better not show that you are by boat and pretend you are walking.

==Season 2024/25==
*'''2025-JAN-20 to 2025-JAN-27 / 7 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. 01 / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel)'''

Stage 22 is one of the longest sections of the GPT, but from our perspective (also thanks to our route choice), it wasn’t particularly difficult. Due to health issues and plenty of time (we had a scheduled meeting in Bariloche on a specific date), we took the stage quite leisurely.

The first part to La Junta is very busy, with a large number of day hikers. That wasn’t really our thing, so we rushed ahead into the wilderness, which starts right after the camps in La Junta.

In the Rio Puelo valley, due to health issues, we chose Variant 01 and rejoined the RR at Puerto Urrutia at the start of 22S.

The most surprising and interesting stop on the trail for us was meeting señira Alexandra at Lago Verde, where we spent an entire morning on the lake on boats and doing deep water solo climbing. (More details in the BIVOUACING section.)

ENTRY INTO VALLE COCHAMÓ

The first major challenge is entering Cochamó Valley, but it’s not as complicated as it might seem.

The entry checkpoint is at Road End {22N} [109.8/58], and access to the valley is free. However, due to high visitor numbers, there are relatively strict regulations. To be allowed entry, you need to follow these rules:

If you want to camp near La Junta, you must have a reservation through www.reservasvallecochamo.org and bring confirmation of your reservation to the checkpoint. Entry is permitted between 7:00 AM and 3:00 PM.

If you want to camp at Refugio El Arco, no reservation is needed, but entry is only allowed between 7:00 AM and 9:00 AM.

The time restrictions aren’t enforced too strictly, but you shouldn’t arrive much later. According to locals, it’s also theoretically possible to enter very early in the morning before any staff arrive, avoiding the need to follow these rules.

However, we personally recommend adhering to the official regulations. There are many visitors (often with little or no experience), and if the beauty of this valley is to be preserved, some regulation and monitoring are necessary. This is also why camping outside of the designated campsites in the valley is prohibited.

For GPT hikers, the best option is to enter the valley in the morning, explain your plans, and then hike to El Arco, where there is plenty of space for tents and camping is free. (Although volunteers manage the site and, like at the entry point, record visitor details.) If you follow this approach, there’s no reason you wouldn’t be allowed in, and you will still comply with all the rules.

CHALLENGES

Ford at Rio Traidor {22N} [95.9/340] was very easy. All other fords on this section were also crossable with dry feet, except for the final fords over Rio Azul at the very end.

Bridge {22N} [80.9/645] doesn’t exist, but the river can be crossed on fallen logs.

Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) was washed away. There is a cable car alternative, or you can cross using fallen logs.

At Settler {22S} [7.2/215], a man yelled at us from a house, saying we shouldn’t walk there. He seemed angry, and we didn’t feel like arguing. Instead, we walked a short stretch along the road and then rejoined the trail by climbing over a valley (near coordinates -41.98297, -71.88292). This involved a short bush-bash and crossing a creek on fallen logs.

The trail around Las Rocas is quite overgrown in one section, with many fallen logs. This rough stretch is between km 17.8 {22S} (-42.05306, -71.83367) and km 19.9 {22S} (-42.06622, -71.81971). We believe it may be possible to bypass this section using other trails, as well-maintained paths connect before and after it, but we didn’t try it ourselves and just bush-bashed through.

Border control was quick and completely problem-free on both sides.

BIVOUACING

The first night, we camped at La Frontera Camp at the entrance to Cochamó Valley. It’s a small and very nice eco-camp, where making a reservation is a good idea. Staying here was a special experience for us, as it is run by Pavel, a fellow Czech.

At El Arco, there’s a shelter, though it doesn’t have much sleeping space. However, right next to it is a large grassy area with plenty of room for tents.

At -41.56978, -71.93585 (km ~64.3 {22N}), there’s a beautiful flat campsite with a refugio.

At Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado), there’s a fire pit with benches and a small tent spot.

One night, we camped in the backyard of Valle Puelo Brewery. They let us stay for free, but the roosters woke us up early.

At -41.96567, -71.90571 (Lago Verde), there is a settlement run by a very kind woman named Alexandra and her brother. They offer cabins for rent, but they also allowed us to camp in our tents for 8,000 CLP per person. The price included free kayak rental for a paddle on the lake. We highly recommend staying here. It is also the only reasonable access point to the lake. Elsewhere, the shoreline is covered with dense vegetation or cliffs.

WATER

There is plenty of water available. The trail runs along rivers and crosses many smaller streams.

RESUPPLY

Cochamó has several minimarkets, a hardware store (where you can buy gas cartridge), a pharmacy, post office, and plenty of restaurants and food stalls.

At the Road End {22N} [109.8/58] (Valle Cochamó entry checkpoint), there is a food truck open in summer with fast food, and a small store nearby selling snacks and some basic groceries.

We bypassed Camp La Junta via Toboganes, so we have no info on current shopping options there.

At Lake, Settler, Camp $ {22N} [70.9/602], we bought very good and reasonably priced fresh cheese and beer. They likely have some other basic supplies as well.

Shop {22N} [43.0/49] is operational. It’s small but sufficient for basic resupply.

Settlement, Shop, Bus {22N} [40.7/36] (El Manso) is a complex of brewery with the best beer we've had in Chile so far. The store is slightly better stocked than the previous one and sells gas cartridges.

Llanada Grande has a fairly large and well-stocked supermarket.

At the start of 22S, there’s a restaurant with its own brewery (Hostal Puelo Libre).

TRANSPORT

A bus from Lago Puelo to El Bolsón runs every hour (around the full hour) and costs 1,800 ARS per person.

* '''2025-01-24 to 2025-01-26/ 2days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ Option 02, RP, Option 09, Option 03/ Natalie & Tomáš'''

Coming from Cochamo, where we had to organize getting a new neck gasket, we once again set off towards Lago Azul. The bus for the Lago Tagua Tagua arrived in Cochamo at 10:20am and left at 10:30am (around here, -41.49304, -72.30553). It came five minutes after the bus that goes from Puerto Montt to the trailhead. We left Rio Puelo at 12:00 after ten minute break and when we got to the ferry (didn't look @ time), before we could get out of the bus and pay the driver, the ferry that was docked left and we had to wait about half an hour for the next one. Lots of people, so Entel did not work. On the other side, the two buses were waiting. The bus did its regular stop at Llande Grande (~10min - they have a very good non industrial salami there) and then we got off where the road to Lago Azul goes. We had to remind the driver to stop for us around 15:30. We managed to get a hitch quickly, but it was short lived. There is a man watching a gate (7mil for the car owner, nothing for us) and the car was only allowed to go ~1km further to a parking here -41.90928, -71.88832 (maybe because it wasn't 4-wheel drive, an/ or they only allow certain [local?] people to go all the way to the beach, not sure). The road to lake has very recently been "upgraded" and is quite ugly. 02B and 02C are probably roads too, based on satellite and little survey where 02B joins 02A. At the beach there were a stand selling empanadas, a toilet, about 20 people and 4 cars parked. We started paddling around 18:00. First going west for ~600m to check out an alternative trail Tomáš was interested in that is on OSM leading to here: -41.92170, -71.87635. The trail exists, but might be somewhat unused, as there seems to be a new road for cars built above it too. Anyway, it looks like a more attractive and shorter approach to Azul, somebody needs to investigate it (we only noticed the trail half way on 02A). The start of the lake outlet (20 m) is magical with its blue-green water, a nice detour. The waves got stronger near the middle of the lake but then eased quickly. Near the end of the lake we had almost calm water. We camped at a spot we noted last year when hiking: -41.98306, -71.84801. It has a small flowing creek but is near a cottage. Both years of being here we have not seen anyone in it, you can camp in the trees and be mostly hidden. People vacation in tents 200m along the lake shore. Lago Azul is very pretty.

The next day was straightforward. Lago Los Rocas was "reflection-like" calm, despite starting around 11:00. We were worried about the boat and the Chilean Carabineros (read Jan's description in the manual) so we put the boat and equipment into the duffel bag and placed it all outside the Carabineros building, entering without our luggage. Everything went well because the men were nice (same ones from last year). However, we were almost busted when they asked us specifically if we were going to Argentina on foot or by boat. At first we said boat, but then they asked who was taking us, and when we struggled to come up with an explanation, they seemed to take our silence as a language misunderstanding and asked us again, so to make things easier, we said we were walking. We then slipped down using Variant U. If you are uncomfortable about this, it might be worth just putting your boat in your bag and walking the 3km to the next beach along RH. Variant S does not exist. Lago Inferior was once again sadly not windy, we started around 16:00. We were hoping to have a bit more horsepower from the waves and wind. They got stronger near the end but only at the very end, and it wasn't that strong. Tomáš and I had a small misunderstanding about our end goal at the lake. Tomáš wanted to walk up the river to scout the rapids and possibly run them back I, being completely unaware of the obvious, agreed. I thought we most likely wouldn't run them and just walk on the other OSM trail. What I didn't know was that the river flowed against us, despite looking at satellite images and saying, "why does it look like the rapids are going in the wrong direction?". Like I said, unaware of the obvious. When I realized the river went against us I instantly hated the idea, but we were already past the normal take out point, so in the end we went for it. The first longish set of rapids (class II, around here: -42.10240, -71.73502) is north (river right), so you cannot just connect to the OSM trail next to the river. We crossed to southern shore of the river. If you want to follow us, aim for it directly. Then it was a slow 400m walk and 100m paddle up to here -42.10413, -71.73233, before we could safely ferry to northern shore (to which we kept from then on). It was slow because of the algae/didymo being very slippery and rocks in the river bed having gaps in between them. You will appreciate how easy entrapment could be if you were in deeper faster water. A pole in one hand will greatly improve your stability and also a leash for the boat helps a lot (in your hand, not clipped on!), so you can walk the boat as a dog. We paddled up to the second short rocky (class II+?) rapid (-42.10487, -71.72934), which was more involved as we had to lift the boat over some rocks and it was a bit sketchy trusting our dollar store locking carabiners on our leash. The last (class III) rapid (-42.10487, -71.72934) was much easier to walk up, once again on our left/north/river-right. We filled up on water after the last rapid and paddled towards the lake. Surprisingly there was not much wind and the waves only started to be not small just before the Argentinian border patrol, so it was a bit slower than expected. Were it not for the border and a bit sooner, we could have gone to lake end. All in all this option was probably a little slower than just packing your boat and walking straight to the border control and about as fast as deflating your boat, walking the 2km portage and reinflating your boat. It might be worthwhile the effort if you have a boat with cargo or just really don't feel like walking. If you are careful, it is not dangerous (slips permitting). When water levels are high, it might be a different story. It took us 75 minutes. Going down the river in case you go NOBO should be much easier: capsizing in the first (going from Lago Puelo) rapid did not look safe due to undercuts, so better walk it down on the right, but the rest can probably be run (after scouting!) or easily walked down.

The camping at the border was once again packed and this time all toilets locked or non-functional, pretty gross considering the amount of people. There is a stream on the west side. The evening was quiet but fierce wind picked up around 3am, the wind was better in the morning but still not great. The check-in with Argentina (open from 8 till 20) was very easy and we got our passports stamped. I had a bit of "boat fever" and wanted to walk out, plus I wanted to be conservative with the waves at this lake. Tomáš felt it would be totally manageable so he sailed on down to Lago pueblo and I hiked out to La Pasarela because I hadn't gone there last year and I was curious. It was an okay hike with a little bit of water along the way. It turned into a MR for a little bit but then went back into a non-native Douglas Fir forest and through a few settlers pastures. It was up and down basically the whole way and very warm. La Pasarela is extremely popular. There is a restaurant and a smoothie joint and many other food stands. Sadly I didn't get a hitch. There is a bus stop when you hit the main road around here; -42.05087, -71.59679. I wasn't sure if it was the main road to El Bolson so I just walked into town and caught the bus out front the hospital here; -42.05924, -71.59776 @ 14:15. It was 1.700mil and paid only in cash. The earlier bus stop would have been fine, the other main road goes to Esquel. Plum season is almost here, red ones are tart but edible, yellow ones need at least 2-4more weeks.

Tomáš: waves were sizable (75 cm maximum difference top to bottom?), from the camp I had to ferry to get out of the cove, but then I mostly paddled only to keep the boat in the right position and let the wind push me to the lake end. A huge parking lot by the beach, hitching does not work but the bus does.

* '''2025-01-15 to 2025-01-22 / 7 days / Packrafting/ NOBO (flip flop)/ Option 8 (extended), RP / Natalie & Tomáš'''

For hikers: the RR west of Rio Puelo is actually attractive and the part we walked was no bushbashing, do not all shun it :-).

Summary

Despite never wanting to do the whole "yo-yo" (Natalie speaking) we did the yo-yo. Starting in Ventisquero and going until the bridge before the Rio Puelo town (didn't do the fjord). We then hitchhiked to Cochamo to deal with a ripped neck seal and planned to return to Laguna Azul to cross into El Bolsón. Last year we were inspired by Tobi and Fangwen's (T&F) trip into the Ventisquero valley and tried but didn't finish due to time and weather. On the flip side, that meant we were able to return this year with a packraft, which made the return trip much more interesting. It is a stunning valley and a beautiful river to be in a packraft (a must for packrafters, Tomáš thinks). There were virtually no tabanos which was a biggie after the mid-January infestation of 20 and 21! Tomáš did the upper Ventisquero river after the view-hike in Rincon Bonito and I chose to go higher on the mountain of the view-hike, earning myself a very incredible 360-view of the glaciated mountains around (both not in GPT yet). The Ventisquero river was easy, class II at most, we hit our knees on occasion. The Upper Puelo before the hike was very easy with a faster flow, just a bit of wood (nothing that couldn't be avoided), probably class l. We skipped the first rapids of the Gorge (6.2), they are surprisingly powerful and should not be paddled by anyone unskilled or without a team. The hike was actually nice, not that overgrown and pretty easy to follow. Tomáš went back into the river a little earlier and skipped the last 6km of hiking, while I met him after the hiking section, he had to walk one more rapid and ride two. The rest of the Puelo until the lake was once again easy. Upon approaching Lago Tagua the headwind was strong and paddling was slow. We planned to paddle to the parque Tagua (Option 11) but the waves and wind were very strong so we camped and crossed the lake the next morning, skipping the hike. Lake was easy and fast in the morning but the lower Puelo was slow for the first 5km before the rapids. We skipped the first rapid there and went down river right, putting in a bit earlier than Jan suggests, crossing a few small rapids and hitting our knees once. The rest of the lower Puelo was a bit slow but overall the whole thing was very beautiful.

Day zero: the bus

We again took the bus at 8:38 near Hostel Apel in Puerto Varas to Cochamo, we were told the bus that goes to the ferry (Laguna Tagua Tagua) was 10min behind the Cochamo-only bus. The ferry bus supposedly leaves here: 41.3160641S, 72.9853782W at 8:15 and then probably goes around town, taking a long time. The plan was to get off the first bus, look for Tomáš's inReach and then catch the second bus. Unfortunately, while we were looking for the imReach, the Laguna bus passed and we were unable to stop it, it was the only bus of the day. On the bright side, with more time to spare, Tomáš managed to wake up the land owner of Camp {21} [79.3/7], and it turned out they had found the inReach the day before and gave it back to us, yay! Soon after all of this (~10:15) we were able to catch another bus to Cochamo, so there must be a few that go in a day (later we learnt they go at 8,9,10,11,12 and 16:00 from Puerto Montt). In Cochamo, we waited until a bit after 12:00 for a bus to Rio Puelo, which made a stop at the trailhead for hiking the RR. We reached Rio Puelo at about 13:45, and that is where the original bus going to and from Laguna Tagua made its appearance on its way back to Puerto Varas/Montt. Since both of us were underslept due to Tomáš having spent the night vomitting (and having had little luck with hitchhiking on that road last year), we found a very nice two-room cabaña for 50.000 here: -41.66243, -72.29821, WhatsApp +56 9 4243 2328. (Entel internet in town functional.)

Day one: the bus and the walk, 4 km

The bus from Rio Puelo is said to be at 11:30 but arrived around 12:15. If one is stopping in Puelo for re-supply, there is a small vegan bakery with good sourdough loafs (-41.6599144, -72.2974946; not open Mondays). Also Supermercado El Maiten sold gas canister's for 7mil. By one o'clock and 1.5mil per person shorter, we were at the ferry. There you get out of the bus and catch a new one waiting at the other side (there are two on the other side, be sure to take the correct one). It takes over half an hour and costs 1.3mil (slow but functioning 3G Entel most of the lake ferry, but not at the end, telecom tower at the northern terminal). The ferries are three and at least two of them go 7 times a day each way (December- March), so you are likely to wait less than an hour. The buses on each side of the ferry are coordinated but when the bus misses a ferry narrowwly, it can add to delay, be prepared to wait some time if you are waiting to go SOBO (for example at the end of GPT22 RH). The bus to primer coral costs 1.5mil. It still stops for some time (15 min? - but the driver was making a big purchase) at Llanada Grande, where the shop is still good and the Entel internet mostly not functioning (receiving e-mails and text messages at most). We got to Primer Corral at 16:00.

Our plan was to stash extra food near Ford 37.5 (not fordable, maybe in February or better March). It seems it is regularly used for camping. We read T&F got their food stolen so we made sure to hide/bury our duffel bag of food very well. Unfortunately, after I hid it and carried on to the first ford, Tomáš met a pig. The pig tried to invade his backpack despite Tomáš only standing a meter away. He realized quickly our food stash had no hope against this invader. Since he did not know whereIt hid it, he started to pursue me, which only came to fruition at the river "Correntos", which has a fitting name. Therefore our first day was extremely short. Tomáš took both our backpacks across the ford (had to cross up river near the top of the islands where it divides into three: -42.01786, -71.93876 ) and made camp (lots of spots near the OSM path). The river was above his knees (173cm), but the length of the crossing, doing it three times and coldness made it somewhat challenging. I went back to make the duffel pig-proof, taking the OSM route that follows the river in my way (-42.00228, -71.93336). It was a lot nicer than the road, recommended.

Day two: Ford camp to outside Ricon Bonito, 16 km

Since we were both still struggling to get over our stomach bugs, we had a late morning and a very easy day. The simple 16km walk to Ricon Bonito felt a lot harder than it should have. As T&F described this section before, it is partially a MR, with a short detour, turning into a trail midway. From our river camp, the GPT track files follow an old trail used probably mostly by cows now, until a settler: -42.02520, -71.94877. At the settler, who was not at home, we had to zig zag through gates and over one fence until reaching the MR: -42.02707, -71.94872 (it makes a detour probably to cross Rio Correntoso over a bridge). The way to Rincon Bonito is signed with little red arrows. Our first water was located here: -42.01995, -71.98929, shortly after the MR ends and trail begins. The last few kilometres of the MR were recently "upgraded", so it is quite ugly, and they may be expand it more, but who knows. On the trail, there were two more simple fords. The first ford was a calm creek: -42.01840, -72.04246. There looked to be good camping just before it, would have been a nice place to aim for the first night. The second ford [15.8/164] has a cable car, where the GPT files indicate a bridge. Tomáš went to verify this after we forded and saw other tents camping there as well. Not sure if it was organized or not, probably yes. A little further ahead there is a settler with their own cell tower. Tomáš (who is from Europe) got full bars but my Canadian phone got nothing. There is still water just before the turn off to the viewpoint trail as T&F have noted. We went into Ricon Bonito to see what they would charge us for camping. We were surprised to meet a group of American packrafters who had flewn in that day to paddle down to the fjord. There were 5 of them sharing the 200mil cabin, so not terribly expensive, but the plane from Puerto Montt was 600mil. Kind of nice to know we had a group of river guides near. In the end we were not allowed to camp at this glamping site, it is for reservations only. The men that worked there recommend us to camp at the Bernardita Alegría's (referred to as "abuela" in earlier seasons) place 2km up the valley but they said it was 25mil a night per person, which sounded far too expensive for camping (maybe it included half board?) so we found a place in the forest not far from Ricon Bonito and once again had an early night. It seems that while the valley is privately owned (by several landowners? - settlers still live up there), there are no right of ways issues at all.

Day three: Stealth Ricon camp to Ventisquero river camp, 20-25 km

The trail to the view point is steep but easy (~930m in 4km). The men working at Ricon Bonito had cleared the brush the day before, so Tomáš finally almost didn't need his machete. There was a little bit of water on the way up ( -42.03631, -72.09700), but probably best to fill at the bottom. You do not have to go all the way up for a view, there is also a view point after 450m of elevation gain. At the top we decided to split and go on two different adventures. Tomáš wanted to explore the upper Ventisquero river and I wanted to explore the upper Ventisquero mountain (aka go to the highpoint above the view point like T&F considered). Luckily we both had successes and you can read Tomáš's description below. As for extending the trail to a highpoint at 1600m I HIGHLY recommend it if weather is nice. By using satellite imagery and a little intuition, the bushbashing was not bad at all. The bush is that dwarf alpine Lenga that is usually very stiff to walk through, but luckily it was not so dwarf. It was taller than me which made it possible to slither through the understory without much fight. There is roughly 500m of BB, the rest is CC. At the beginning I zig zagged between hidden open spots and then eventually made my way to a ridge-like feature that had many breaks from the bush, and some interesting views. You have to play with this ridge a bit because it is not continuous. Ridge around here -42.05122, -72.09511. Eventually you break free from the bush and enter a dry basin just below the highpoint. It is an easy walk from there and if there is snow you might come across a few small meltwater streams as I did. The views were amazing, it felt A LOT like home but obviously more special. If we did not have a plan to start paddling that day I would have explored the ridge. It easily goes to 1700m and then from there it looks you could connect to the main mountain, it will be a fun trip for one lucky person. As for meeting Tomáš, we planned to meet where the track files hit the river. However I was unable to get to that spot as there were blackberries and cliffs, so I ended up taking the main trail to the river in Ricon Bonito: no one said anything. But when you take this trail down you will hit the bottom and eventually walk along two small boardwalks, just after these boardwalks, the main trail goes left, but dont go left, a better way in is to the right after the boardwalks. It is a sneaky path but it is there and leads you to a nice small beach. Luckily I was ahead of Tomáš and warned him of this new point; -42.02492, -72.09604. We had a nice evening paddle of only a few kilometers, filled up on water at the cable car ford and then made camp in a sheltered bay. Unfortunately the day ended with a torn neck gasket: I ripped my neck gasket all the way to the bottom when taking off my drysuit. I was terribly sad and in disbelief. I had been trying hard to treat it well, not pulling it, covering my face with a balaclava, covering it with a balaclava from sun, treating it once a month with 303 and so on. Luckily Tomáš had one bar of internet ať the camp site so I managed to find a store in Pucón that could ship a spare neck gasket to Cochamo (do not do that, ship things to Puerto Varras instead).

Tomáš's trip up the Ventisquero valley:
This goes beyond what is in the GPT files - I was not sure why they end up only in the middle of the valley. when one can clearly see buildings and meadows higher up the valley on satellite.Turns out there is a trail to them indeed. There is one more settler, Fredy Alvarado living here with his family: -42.03933, -72.13376. He is signposted, maybe he would provide lodging and stuff too. Up to him, there is an OSM trail. You can divert from it to a cable car over a river here -42.03852, -72.12473 (signposted by Ricon Bonito). From Fredy, the trail continues, it seems to be used by animals and is still fairly clear. When you enter one clearing, trail can be a bit difficult to find, join it here: -42.04754, -72.16677. Then here -42.04773, -72.17127, the trail fell into the river with trees (obstructing it, this part needs to be walked in packraft through a shallow side channel). It is just 50m and can be easily walked around. The meadows are abandoned puestoes that still seem to be grazed. I put in here: -42.04244, -72.18400. One could probably walk further up in the braided river bed if willing to ford, the valley is really pretty with lots of waterfalls and glacier views and the river would be packraftable for a few kilometres more. River itself is stunning (more scenic and wild than Rio Puelo I think) and easily navigable until Bernardita's place here -42.03202, -72.11899, where II or II+ rapids start (sorry, I am only apporixmate in rating). With a bit of scouting and skill (I am not very skilled though), the rapids are navigable though, as I ran them. The second and third are the biggest, and those are the ones I scouted, the following ones are a bit smaller but could have been scouted too. One can also portage and supposedly there is a path maintained by Ricon Bonito along the river bank (see OSM) so bailing out should be easy. Where there is the OSM path to the side valley, there were some cables so I assume a cable car, but did not see it and cables could be for water too, I did not get a good look. Rapids end around our meeting point with Natalie. I definitely recommend this extension especially for packrafters.

Day four: Ventisquero camp to Puelo Gorge exit, 26 km

We spent the morning organizing the online neck gasket purchase with one bar of internet and then set off quite late. The Ventisquero river is indeed gorgeous and although it is rated II+, the rapids are small and easily portaged if need be (Tomáš thinks II+ is for the rapid section he did alone - or possibly for spring months with more water). We scouted a few rapids but overall there were no surprises, and obstacles were easily passed. There was very little wood, and the wood that was there was big and obvious with lots of room to go around. I saw only one rapid with possibly dangerous strainers (around here -42.02042, -72.06173 if we postidentified it well). There are two possibly II rapids here: -42.01429, -71.99931 and here: -42.01853, -71.99523. The first one is straightforward, the second one has a good line on the left of the main current. We picked the left side of the river there, hitting our knees a bit - better walk it if you do not take the main current. I personally agree with Jan's description that the river is shallow, we hit our knees a few times (canoe seat). (Tomáš thinks it is "Moderate with occasional ground contact" at most - and this more in the upper part than the part we did with Natalie, that is as long as you pick the correct main line to run rapids, anyway it has a lot more water than Rio Huenuhuenu). There was one more water source for drinking further down the river on river right (-42.01882, -71.98949) and then Rio Correntoso if you trust that (we did going up without issues). I wish I filled up more because it was the last water until Bridge {22N} [7.4/137]. We got to our food stash near Ford 37.5 in ~3hrs. After lunch we headed towards the gorge entrance/hiking section (Rapids Start 6.2). This part of Rio Puelo seemed easier but flowing faster and with more water, no more shallows. There was more wood than the Ventisquero but once again easily avoided. However, there were a couple of underwater logs we almost hit. Tomáš thinks the river is at most I+, when Jan mentions "up to class III" in the manual, that either applies to November or is wrong in his opinion, you can avoid all of the small rapids if you want and keep it strictly at class I. We were totally surprised when we hit the gorge because we were fighting a headwind and thought we were moving slow. Turns out we were still moving fast (~13km in 1.5hrs) and therefore missed the first exit by a hundred metres (the gorge is more than half a kilometre after the exit). We had to walk back up the river and ferry across it to get to the start of the hiking section. It was 17:30 so we just camped there and boiled river water. There is a telecom tower above Puerto Urrutia but we did not test it. Lots of didymo algae.

Day five: Gorge to end of hiking section, 12 km

The bypass trail turned out to be a nice if slow (up and down) trail. It is only very little overgrown with some beautiful views of the gorge and powerful rapids within. There was drinking water throughout. We started late and stopped somewhat early. The first ~2km to Settler 7.7 (Christian) was very easy and clear but Bridge 7.4 is not there anymore, there is a new log bridge just up the creek bed (go left after the gate). Two men on very stunning horses were there but we didn't talk for long. The overgrown bit technically starts after this settler but it was ~80% easy to see and follow. The meadow sections are the only places I would often loose it and it was only badly overgrown at the first beach after Settler's 7.7 gate (locked). There, the GPX wants you to walk on the river shore, which is probably a lot easier than the overgrown trail, as long as you find the entrance back to the trail again: -41.87870, -71.96787. Later, it would have been very overgrown after the last hill climb before Settler 15.3 but it had been recently cleared. I was very lucky as it seemed to have been cleared that morning or day before. There were fresh cuts, prints and horse poo. I often found the GPX was off by ~20m, which can be annoying in the forest at times. At the third beach (~6km before end), Tomáš and I split. He wanted to paddle the last bit as he believed it could be a good alternative river in, the rapids looked easily portaged. I was less inclined, so I walked and he took most of the weight and we met back at the normal put in. See Tomáš's notes below. Camping at the end of the hike, beach under Settler "Castanos", is very nice. There are lots of camping spots on the beach or grass meadow above and some tables as well. Near his boat, there is a tarp set up, if you want shelter from the rain. You can fill up on water at the top near Castanos or ferry across the river to a creek.

Tomáš: Rio Puelo in the section that is portaged looks like at least solid class III (that was also the assessment of the Americans we met earlier - they said the start of the gorge is 500m of big waves without holes, surveying from an airplane on their way to Rincon Bonito) and technically probably can be run by people who know what they are doing (but do your own research), as the Americans presumably did (but they were river guides). Possibly, you could even put in (somewhat precariously from a rock) at the end of the first beach Natalie mentions above, walking the rapids (the gorge is mostly not closed from then on where there are rapids) if you have got the skills (they are still mostly class III). From what we saw, I am unsure only whether rapid at -41.86224, -71.97834 can be walked, as we could not see the rapid properly. Also possible there are more rapids than we saw. Make your own assessment first.

Anyway, I put here: -41.85388, -71.98151. This is also a very pretty and comfortable campspot with access to water. There were three more rapids. First one well visible on satellite at -41.85019, -71.97913. It is II or II+, but short and straightforward to run through the center. Could be walked on the left, especially if you have a rope. Then there is a rapid at -41.83779, -71.97925. The main current is probably still III, I did not like it, so I walked it on the right, which was easy (and short, like 10-15 m). The last rapid is here: -41.86224, -71.97834, I would say it is II (or possibly II+) and I ran it. Natalie was faster as I ate, took forever to set up the boat and scouted all the rapids, which I would recommend you do too. Even with the scouting, it took me about an hour to do this section. The last two rapids were not visible on satellite, so Jan's waypoint ending the rapids is correct. According to my GPS, Puelo drops from 80 m to 45 m over this section, which is about 15m more than the manual says. The gorge is beautiful (but you will see it even if you put where recommened by Jan, it is not over there yet). Puelo here has a lot of that nasty didymo algea thing, it is ugly and do wash your boats after leaving.

Day six: End of hike to Laguna Tagua Tagua, 28 km

Rio Puelo was again pretty calm (and pretty) but then somewhat slow nearing the lake. Fresh (last that we saw) water not coming from humans here: -41.80219, -71.99786. We found a nice lunch spot here with picnic tables and nice views: -41.70008, -72.09018. No water but I recommend camping here if you know the lake is going to be too windy to cross and you don't want to take the ferry. However it looks like it sees day trip visitors from time to time. Our plan after lunch was to paddle to the start of the Parque Tagua Tagua hike. However, close to the ferry port the base valve in our middle seat inflation tube ripped (obviously a weak point in our boat as the same spot ripped on the main compartment while on the Rio Ñuble). Luckily it was just the seat but as soon as we could arrive at the port a ferry arrived so we had to wait to go to shore. I stupidly put Aquaseal FD on it rather than taping it and doing the permanent fix later, so we had to be very careful for the rest of the day. The Aquaseal was a battle. I had been keeping the valve clean but the first few centimeters of aquaseal in the tube had turned to concrete and we had to make a new hole to get some out, I wish I had two tubes (FD + UV). In the end it didn't matter too much because the waves and wind were so strong at the lake that we decided not to cross the lake to get to the hike. For camping we went into the trees and found a wind sheltered patch of grass: -41.70132, -72.11486. We boiled water from the lake, probably not great considering the ferry port was right there. It is probbaly 4-5 hours of padddling from end of gorge to the lake.

Day seven: Laguna Tagua Tagua to Bridge 79.3, 23 km

We got started fairly early and the lake was easy to cross in about 100 minutes, even with some light tailwind. We stopped for internet at the north side. The first 5km of the Puelo before Rapids 68.9 were more like an extension of the lake, very slow (but pretty). It was easy to stay right at the small gorge before Rapids 68.9. We stopped to scout them and although they were not as strong as the rapids in the first gorge, they had many features we did not like (a giant wave and a possible hole and possible undercuts). If there was more water it would have been possible to stay to the far right of them, but at this time it looked impossible to do so without hitting rocks on our knees (it is possible to walk the boat through here too). So we walked the boat to the far right as GPX indicates, there is not enough water to float the whole way. At the end of the walk (-41.61433, -72.21046), there is a a rapid you enter downstream if you want to re-enter the river. After that we stayed right the whole way, passing some more minor rapids directly after. We hit our knees badly on the last shallow rapid because at the end we went to the left of a center rock, we should have gone right (that was here: -41.60956, -72.21677). We found a nice water supply here: -41.61519, -72.24686. The rest of the Puelo that day was easy and it got a bit slow, we had to paddle against the waves for the last few kms before Bridge 79.3 (it pays to follow the current, not chasing the shortest route). There was a fun small feature (possibly a hole) here: -41.63345, -72.25323 that we rode to the side channel of the river. At the bridge we got out and caught a hitch easily to Cochamo, and prepared ourselves to deal with the broken gear and online orders (the Post office in Cochamo is delivered to only on Mondays, so order your stuff to Puerto Varras instead - we had to go to retrieve the stuff in transit in Puerto Montt). In Cochamo there are many hospedajes, the going rate seems to be 17mil per person. We chose Hostal Arcoíris (-41.49402, -72.30973), we got a small private room for 34mil. There is a large grass area in the back with outside showers to make cleaning the packraft easy, only downfall was it is very popular for Chilean campers. Good fruit shop here: -41.49456, -72.29692.

* ''' 2025-JAN-18 > 22 / 4,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / 22N > 22-01 > 22S / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT20+GPT21+GPT22
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 3/5
| Difficulté : 2/5
| Danger : aucun

Après quelques achats à Cochamo, je continue ma journée pleine de surprises. Sans que je fasse d'auto-stop, une dame s'arrête et je fais 4km avec elle sur la gravel road qui mène au barrage de la CONAF. Il est alors 15h30 et il n'est plus possible de passer depuis 15h, dernière montée possible seulement avec une preuve de réservation au camping La Junta. Pour passer sans réservation il faut se présenter entre 7h et 9h. Je dors au camping 200m avant le barrage. Le dimanche matin, je me fais dépasser par des dizaines de coureurs. Après La Junta, il n'y a plus personne et le sentier est plus difficile et boueux. Jusqu'au km 45, ce sont des montagnes russe. On a toujours l'impression de monter. Je prend la 22-01 puisque le RR est fait pour le packraft, et surtout parce qu'après l'échec du GPT20 pour demander un bateau, je préfère éviter de recommencer, 3 fois qui plus est.
J'ai fait de l'auto-stop 20km sur les 30. J'ai fait quelques courses à Llanada Grande, le supermarché est vraiment bien. Je n'ai pas vu de bateau au km 0 du 22S, preuve que j'ai fais le bon choix. Ensuite sur le RR ça alterne entre route de terre carrossable et chemin ou il faut pousser quelques branches, et enjamber des arbres en travers de la route. Mais le chemin est relativement bon. Attention aux ronces qui sont plutôt répandues ici. Aucun taon. Les 4km avant de croiser la 22-X sont en très mauvais état. Attention à bien passer par les postes frontière Chilien et Argentin, le premier pour sortir administrativement du Chili et le second pour entrer administrativement en Argentine.
JAN-23: Repos Lago Puelo

* '''23rd of december / 1 day/ hiking/ sobo/ var 12 + boat (rio puelo) + rr (lago inferior) + var 3 / allie'''

I started in segundo corral where I stayed in a hospedaje. The dueña helped me with the logistics of the boat transfer +56 9 2050 2809. The border control went smooth on both sides. The trail is well maintained and stunning views. When i got to the village lago puelo i tried to cross the rio azul but the current was too strong and it was very deep. I couldnt pass (im 165cm). I went back to the argentinian border control to ask for a boat. They called for one through the radio but no responses. so i had to take the detour to get to la paserela (var 3) which was an extra 13 km more or less to get to lago puelo alto. I passed some people that managed to pass the rio azul 5 km away from the pasarela. But they were quite tall.

* '''(2024/Dez/19-2024/Dec/23) 5 Days/ Packrafting/ NOBO/ Route K/ Lukas, Basil, Maxi and Tabea)'''

Entry point at Lago Pueblo and took the bridge over Rio Azul, which looked not easy fordable. The path to the border was easy to find and well kept.
The packrafting route starting at primer corral is easy and nice. The hiking path starting at 15.2 is partly in overgrown and takes a long time. The second rafting section starting at 28 km is also beautiful and easy however the current is quite slow getting closer to the lago tagotago. The lake should be crossed before noon, strong winds pick up at around 12.
Rafting after Lago TagoTago is easy, the rapids need to be skipped. pay attention of water vortex.

* '''(2024/Dez/12-2024/Dec/17) 6 Days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Route N/ Lukas, Basil and Tabea'''

Entry point at Cochamo. Dont forget to register in advance for the park, they will send you away otherwise. In the park the path is well kept and easy to walk on, although a bit muddy. Up to the camping la junta many tourist are on the way.
From el Manso, after the loop, we took a bus to secundo corral. The bus leaves daily at 2pm on the main road.

* '''From 2024-12-07 to 2024-12-11 // 4 days //Hiking // NOBO // RR + Puerto Urrutia to La Junta // Mo'''

Transfer from Cochamo to Puerto Urrutia and the other side of Rio Puelo with Bus/Ferry/Bus/Bote was easy, then nice walking next to the river, in really short parts completely overgrown, otherwise easy walking until the river crossings where no settler was there but I was lucky to find others to get me over, from El Manso to La Junta you have a minimarket in El Manso and a little further (knocked on the door of the farm house) and a farmer sells eggs (I just asked for eggs) after Lake Viedma. In La Junta there is an expensive minimarket. Other settlers (like in Terrentosa) might also sell food.

* '''From 2024-12-04 to 2024-12-10 // 6.5 days //Hiking // NOBO // RR + Pasarela option, Option 2 (Lago de las Rocas east side) + Gravelroad between Llanada Grande and Rio Manso // MiaimZelt'''

In general: no dofficult river crossings, the biggest challenge was the mud between Rio Manso and La Junta. Navigation was mostly without difficulties.

Day 1: Easy trail to the argentinian border. Arrived at 5pm and needed to wait until next morning for the stamp. Camped at the beautiful and free camping next to the carabinieros.

Day 2: Got my stamp and continued. Lovely trail with nice vies until the chiliean carabinieros. Easy bordercrossing. Took the alternative at the east side around Laguna de las Rocas. At some point i saw a sign, indicating the trail is closed due to fallen trees. I continued, the trail got wider. Then i reached the farm of german settlers. A woman (Vivi) approached me and we talked. She told me, my GPX-Track is wrong, because it want's me to cross their private property. Last days people climbed over locked fences, what bothers them. Should walk outside of the fence. On the other side Vivi waited for me and asked me to walk the original trail with her daughter. Got invited to lunch, later her daughter walked with me on the original trail (indicated by a sign "Lago Azul 6km"), while she cleared it with a machete. I did record it with my Smartphone. Sent it to Jan, you also can find it in the facebook group.
After the ford of a river the trail in the dense forest was partly covered under fallen trees. Several times i needed to check the GPS. Camped at a tiny lake near Lago Azul.

Day 3: Didn't follow the GPS around Lago Azul, because it lead's through the property of a settler. Instead i stayed outside of the fenced area. Found signs indicating i'm on the right track, directly before i reached the shore of the lake. The path up to the gravel road was partly overgrown, but doable.

Walked on the gravel road, later i got a hitch to the supermarket in Llanada Grande. Very good shop for a full resupply. After resupply i didn't find a hitch, walked 3 hours until a very nice chilean took me the last kilometers. Stayed at Camp {22N} [45.2/44].

Day 4: Due to the steep up and downs + the mud i was much slower than expected. Met 2 very nice settlers on horseback. Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) has a cable car instead of a bridge. Settler warned me about it. Didn't know how to get inside, because it drives away when you don't hold the rope at the same time. Decided to ford the river instead, was knee-deep. 4 more easy fords along my way to the nice campside at Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado).

Day 5: Trail was in better conditions the next hours. At Torrentoso there is a open shelter with lots of space for tents around. Along Lago Vidal the trail got muddy again. Bridge {22N} [80.9/645] doesn't exist, but very easy to ford. The forst half of the ascent to Lago Grande was easy, but the second half was very muddy and challenging. Wanted to camp at Lago Grande but, Camp {22N} [83.8/1001] is fully covered under a huge downfall of several big trees. Trail along Lago Grande is in poor condition (fallen trees + mud). Camp {22N} [84.9/1012] is a beautiful campspot.

Day 6: Began with the poor trail. Directly after camp, there is a hole where the trail should be. Campspot near the tiny lake. Later one more huge downfall. Trail improves a little bit until El Arco, but due to mud i was very slow. 4 easy fords until the refuge. Rio Arco was knee-deep, easy ford. Met the first hikers directly after the crossing. Mud was getting even more, improved at the descent. Ford Rio Traidor was not difficult, again knee-deep. Ford Rio La Junta could be avoided, because above Toboganes there is a bridge. Didn't know. Could stay at Camp Trawen (13mil), was plenty of space for more tents. They have a small kiosk. Toboganes waterfall is worth to be visited.

Day 7: Easy trail in the beaufiful rainforest from La Junta to the reception. Hiked on the gravel road and luckily i got a hitch to Puerto Varas.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''From 2024-02-19 to 2024-02-24 // 6 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + Option 2, 1B, 1 + Variant I, J // Quentin Clavel'''

Lago Puelo - lago de las rocas (east) - Lago Azul - Lago Totoral - Llana Grande - El Manso - Lago Vidal Gormaz - La Junta - Toboganes - mirador Arcoiris - Anfiteatro - Cerro Trinidad - Cochamo

The section begin with the crossing of Rio Azul, wich was not difficult at this time of the year. Then easy track to the lovely Argentinia border, I slept on the camping there. 8 more kilometers to arrive to the carabineros office. Easy border, nice people.

Then due to the landslide on the RR (carabineros confirm me that the track is still not praticable there) I continued along Lago de Las Rocas, on the eastern side, following the option 2. Pretty easy to follow.

At some point there is a junction, with a sign indicate Lago Azul - 6Km on the right. I followed it, even if it get me out of the GPX file (and the nice and easy to follow track). Not sure it was a great idea, I ended up on a sort of small bush-bashing areas that I managed to pass threw and after few kilometers, finally found back the option track, clear and easy, and continue my way.

Then you arrive to a big farm, the one from Jonas, a German native arriving here when he was a child, grow up there and have now a family, living in nature, along the lake, cultivating fruits and vegetables, and selling woods. Very nice man, interesting discussions ! After his farm, you'll follow the valley but keep the left in the woods straight after his farm, if not you'll arrive in a big swampy area.

The track is less obvious and there's a lot of fallen trees. Few check on the GPS was necessary. Then you reach the Lago Azul. The GPX file is going inside the property of a settler. He's a nice guy but his dogs less, one bites me ! (Not hardly, but still!). Just be more careful than me going there, or go around the property.

One last hard push to reach a gravel road, that you will follow until El Manso (30km a bit boring), but easy to find camping and food, especially around Lago Totoral. Resupply at Llana Grande, big supermarket with everything you need.

At El Manso, there's a minimarket next to the cervecería wich is a place where you can camp. The track is quite easy to follow, and quite physical with all the ups and downs. I had rain for two days and this stretch was muddy, especially along the Lago Vidal Gormaz. Then it becomes VERY muddy until La Junta. I had the feelings I will never finish this stretch, and I felt few times in the mud.

I was definitely not presentable when I arrived in La Junta, and the contrast was huge with all people well dressed with clean sports clothes who smell good the fresh perfume of lavenderia ahaha.

I wanted to do Arco iris, but the track is closed because of a landslide. So I opt for the glaciar Paloma wich was surprisingly technical and steep.
But the surrounding worth it, the glaciar Is amazing, the fact that you can enter into it is mad ! I slept up there, there's a little circle with rocks to put your tent.

Then I reached Cochamo and enjoyed great food, confortable hostel and relaxing atmosphere

* '''2024-Feb-09 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Gerald'''

First: I wouldn't do it if there was a lot of rain. Did it after a week of rain in 2019 and it was a mud hell until El Arco. Now it seems at least until junta the trail improved (not sure). For those who don't own a trekking pole, organize a stick early... you won't have mich fun with the muddy situation otherwise.

The bus leaving Puerto Varas at 8:30 (Bus stop at -41.31617, -72.985396) charged 7k. Surprisingly they drove me to the trailhead, last time i had to walk from the bridge, guess it depends on the bus. If you want to get a seat you should probably take the bus in Puerto Montt, had to stay the whole ride. Seems like they will also stop along the way if you wave (check the cochamo insta for an overview of the schedule and route of the bus).
Arrived at the checkpoint at 11:45. After explaining my trip and that i will stay at El Arco they let me pass (without a reservation). They just ask you to register before you go.
Stopped at la junta to make a coffee and enjoy the view. They sell veggies they grow on site.
If i remember rights from Rio Trador on it gets really muddy. It rained 4 days ago and mud was not a big issue until that river.

Anyway, arrived quite late at 8pm at the shelter. There is a path to the right to a place to pitch couple of tents. After Rio Traidor (-41.407173, -72.092915) would also be a nice place to camp

In average only 2 tabano/day annoyed me, what a time we live in... Finally

Dona Luisa has a nice spot on the southern side of the lake Vidal gormaz.
To give you idea, here a short pricelist:
5k camping,
3k for a beer (brahma or Sol),
7k for a bottle of wine,
12k for dinner (meat, salad and bread),
1.5k for cheese

Camping at the settlement Steffen looked nice. Unfortunately i chose a spot next to a way too curious bull...

The camping at the brewery in El Manso is not worth a penny (they charge 5k). It's basically a dry piece of land full of goose shit. Engine on petrol runs untill 10pm. Only wifi is positive. I couldn't find a good spot to camp nearby. I would camp way before. Bus supposed to arrive between 14:30 and 15:00. Luckily a car took me to Puerto Urrutia where i continued. Hostel Puelo Libre looked nice next to the beautiful river. Hiked until the north west side of lago las rocas.

Ricardo (?) offered me a ride for free to the other end of the landslide. But I chose to cross the whole lake by boat. He charged 30k (I was alone). The radio is not anymore at the "port", but you can walk to his house (just continue the MR, first house at around [-42.019089, -71.861245] to your left, if you want to avoid the dogs take the small trail to your left once you see it).

Leaving Chile without the PDI document was not an issue (I requested the paper 5 days in advance and only got an auto response...). They did not even ask. Good views on the lake from now on. Spend an extra day at the camp next to the AR border control. All in all, nice hike!

Missed the bus to El bolson by 5mins. Seems like it's more towards x:30h. I think they run every hour. Got a ride with a car for 1k to the city. If someone is fancying good sourdough bread i can recommend "El Obrador"

The Post office is also doing Westernunion here (check Googlemaps reviews for more Infos)

* '''2024-Feb-03 to 2024-Feb-09 / Lilian'''

If you decide stay at Segundo Corral, and take the boat to Argentina.

NO NO NO

NO NO NO

DON'T DON'T DON'T stay at Mari Mari Peni Camping, (or another name) Amancays Camping.

I saved a girl hiker almost RAPED by the campground owner, and I'm pointed by a rifle gun force me to stop helping her at the night on 07/02. About the details, i type it and upload later.

It is already reported to Chile carabineros and Consulate in Chile.

* '''GPT22 2024-01-31 to 2024-02-05 / 5,5 days days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Cochamó options/ Tomáš & Natalie'''

After a month and a half, we finally did something standard! From Puerto Varras (the bus stop on Avenida Vicente Perez Rosales just after Antonio Varras street) we took a bus at 8:38 going from Puerto Mont that went all the way to the end of MR to the "Road end" waypoint (aka the trailhead). At our hostel (Casa Apel), they told us it would arrive at 8:45. Not sure if this is the same bus that others said would pass Puerto Varras at 8:15 or if it just goes to the road end only in high season. It was 7000 per person - I think they might charge double for backpacks, it seemed expensive but happy they took us all the way.

We were at the entrance at 11 AM and were let through for free when we told them we were going to El Arco. Nat worries this excuse won't last long. The way to La Junta is really busy (met maybe 50 people and about ten horses), easy and without many views as it goes through a forest. When we reached La Junta, we decided that the valley is too special to just walk on by, so we decided to try our luck and ask for camping in order to do the side trips. We asked all the campsites and only La Junta let us stay, 8000 CLP per person. Nat says it is important not to spread the word as they were nice people and did us a favor even though they were not supposed to allow people without reservations to stay. So, do not expect to be let in. We had a numbered site so I think they genuinely had some places free. If nobody had places, after ford 98.9, there is a maze of paths and mini-meadows on the left where I saw somebody camp illegally. If you hide your packs well for the day and then camp from dusk till dawn, you would probably get away with it. Alternatively there are some flat spots in Trinidad valley two hours up - if you start so that you would arrive by dusk, you should meet nobody.

The side trips are steep but not challenging, many people take them. We went to Paloma [November 2024: in our suggestions and in OSM, like the next option too] in the evening, it can be done in three hours there and back if you do not stop (we did). We started going up at 1715 and saw last person going down at 1830 or so. It is quite splendid and fun, there are a couple of places you have to use a fixed rope. OSM says there is a route to Cerro La Junta. It is probably an exit route for climbers, I did not see any traces of it, but it looked like it was possible. If it is, one could probably continue all the way to Cerro Capicua.

Arco Iris is still closed. If it were open I think one could follow the ridge, which is not very steep or outcroppy, all the way north to above GPT21 - only there is probably no way down [November 2024: in the Facebook group, it was said that somebody died there and that is why it is close, so maybe there is nothing wrong with the path, but it is closed officially for sure].

The next morning I went to the Trinidad Valley and all the way up to Cerro Bella Vista and Nat went ahead to escape the approaching rain. The roundtrip takes about 7-8 hours. There is a marked travelled trail to the pass ("El Paso"), the last 300 vertical meters or so are marked by cairns. You will need your hands occasionally, but it is not exposed or particularly hard - SAC 4. The views are well worth it. It seemed most people only go to La Laguna (lake just under the pass). We started at 6 AM and I met the first people on my way down around noon at La Laguna. The way up through Camping Vista Hermosa (the current GPT track) is not supposed to be used by people not staying at the campsite. The proper way up seems to be the more western trail that is marked on OSM. Going back down trough camping Bella Vista was without issues though. They told Natalie you are not supposed to use their cable car (the one more upstream). Tomáš thinks you should use it as it is the only one that you can use without going through either of the campsites (the downstream one goes directly from La Junta campsite). No horseflies by now!

I left the camping at 15:30, and met only one group of hikers all the way up to the second Camp waypoint at Lago Grande. It is a nice camp, bigger than the first, but no good water sources. Wild legal camping, if I get it right. Refuge El Arco is unmanned, it is just a simple wooden hut. I would only use it in case of severe rain. The way up was almost all dry after two weeks of no rain. Mostly through forest, with some nice views of the valley, a few more fords than indicated, but they could all be jumped.

The next day it rained (5mm?) from 4 AM till 11 AM but it was not enough to make the trails substantially muddy. Nat had camped under a tree on a bench at Doña Luisa (5mil) and despite the rain was mostly dry without a tent. Tomáš had camped at Lago Grande and the tent got very wet (but not his sleeping bag). The bridge before Lago Vidal is not there but there was a nice log. There are some pre-colonization rock paintings after Lago Vidal, one probably needs to make a sidetrip to see them based on the information signs near Torrentoso (trail 22-10 was signposted; trails in the valley are well maintained so I assume the option is good to go). On the last meadow before the gone bridge at 51.8, there was a cherry tree that still had very tasty miniature cherries in the beginning of February. It is behind the house to the left of the trail, maybe 40 m from it. I discovered it by going south of the house (nobody seemed to be in it). Do not miss the turnoff of the trail from the meadow - I went straight, there was initially a trail but petered out into a landslide. Camp at 45.2 is nice but bring water (reach it by turning left from the trail cca 50-100 m beyond the imaginary shortest route from the trail to the camp, that way you avoid any vegetation, there is an opening in the fence (-41.70438, -71.99186). Finally met Natalie after two days of escaping rain, she found a dry spot under the tree canopies there. Shop in El Manso is better than expected (has good veges and fruit) but not as good as the one in Llanada Grande. El Manso also is besides a cerveceria with wifi (you have to buy the beer). The bus only came at 1530 despite being told it comes at 1pm. In almost three hours of waiting, we did not manage to hitch a car.

The bus indeed stops at Llanada Grande for 10 minutes or so - it is not really enough to orientate yourself and buy lots of supplies. The supermarket had lots of nectarines! Should you want to go to Puerto Urutia, the bus does not go there so you need to get off and walk the minor road there. We could not get reliable Entel internet reception anywhere in the valley (calls were fine) along the bus route.

We went to Primer Corral to do 22-08. The first few km are not a pleasant road to walk on. We decided to turn back as bad weather was coming in two days and it did not seem worth it. Not sure how far the road for cars goes. There seems to be regular but sparse traffic on it.

We walked back for about an hour on the main road before getting a hitch for the last 3 km to turnoff to 22-02, as others indicated the RR is badly passable due to a landslide. The MR we walked was aesthetically dreadful and supersteep. We had to climb a locked gate right at the start. We found a miniature camping spot (dry) about 200 m before the signposted trail turnoff. In the morning a lorry driver waved at us so probably no issues with climbing the gate. Luckily the trail is much nicer than the road. We met the settler at the lake Azul, he let us walk through his property. The few km to the first very small lake are actually an undriven MR, but very pleasant, it does not seem to be connected to the road network. After 2 km, one turns left onto a trail, there are new signposts indicating you ca go to the "Frontera" or the lake - go to the Frontera. Until the pass, it is very clear. After the pass, the visibility deteriorates somewhat but no bush bashing is involved. Soon after that, there is a gate saying there is no trail afer a harsh winter. We went further and it turned out there is a trail. There were some trees on it, but not too much and we lost it only for about 50 m. From setler at 11.4, the trail is much more clear. Met a seemingly lonely girl from the next homestead with whom we had a lovely chat. The trail to the border control was easy, we came there at 1530 and were let through. They told us that it would be ok to reach the Argentinian border control the next day. They too had a very ripe cherry tree but did not pick up on my appraisal of it and did not suggest I get some fruit.

We met several people on the way to Argentina border. We camped there (wild permitted numbered camping sites - there was about twenty other Argentinians, the functioning toilets are unsigned immediately next to the Police building, the building that looks like the old toilets is closed). The next day we had no issues with getting a stamp and going down. The last CC part is a trail. We forded the second ford a bit earlier than suggested, it was waist deep but very slow moving. Took a bus at 1340 to El Bolson - seems to run regularly (the dog bandits there are aggressive, watch out).

* '''2024-Jan-19 to 2024-Jan-24 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + day trip / Lotti & Alex'''

We did this section mostly as described by Fangwen and Tobi (El Manso to Cochamo base camp), so there is not much to add. We stayed at La Junta for 2 nights and did a very nice day trip to Cerro Bellavista (see description further down). The trails were very well maintained all the way. The only minor problems were mud and lots of horse flies. Like Fangwen and Tobi, we were happy we did the section NOBO, because the landscape gets more and more spectacular. This way it is also much easier to get to camp at La Junta without reservation, because they always reserve some space for hikers coming from the south.
It was a beautiful hike and especially the area around La Junta is really spectacular and worth visiting. We even met a fellow GPT hiker there, which was great!

Transportation:

To start:
Bus "Rio Puelo" from Puerto Varas to Lago Tagua-Tagua at 8:20am, then ferry to Puerto Maldonado, then bus to El Manso. We arrived at the trailhead around 1pm.

after hike:
Bus from end of trailhead ("Cochamo base camp") to Cochamo/Puerto Montt at 1pm.

Day trip to Cerro Bellavista:

Start at La Junta on GPT Variant G, following the signs to "Trinidad". It starts by crossing the river with the little cable car. After the walls of Trinidad, stay on the trail and follow the signs to "Laguna". The official trail ends there, but there are stone cairns and ribbons marking a trail that goes up to the pass. The laguna is crowded, but we didn't meet anyone further up. The view at the pass is already great, but you can go up even further. Turn to the left and follow the stone cairns until the summit. It is not difficult, just walking and easy scrambling, and the view is absolutely spectacular.
The whole tour has about 1300m of altitude difference. It took us around 5h to go up, and 3-4h down.

* '''2024-01-07 to 2024-01-14: Fangwen and Tobi / 2.5 days Ventisquero Valley (Option 08 + more), 4 days El Manso to Cochamo RR / NOBO hiking.'''

We did two parts along this enjoyable section, connecting them by hitchhiking and resupplying in between in Llanada Grande.

The first part was hiking ~20km into the scenic Ventisquero valley (Option 08), alongside a wonderful river on an enjoyable and easy hiking trail through farms and rainforest that mostly follows an old minor road. It's often better to follow the well-marked trail rather than the GPT track files. A highlight of our trip was hiking up to a fantastic viewpoint at 1100m with a view of the whole valley, its remote side valleys and glaciated mountain peaks. The trail (900m elevation gain, 4.5km) through the thick rainforest is steep but excellent in quality and easy to follow (but the turnoff at S 42° 01.737', W 072° 05.643' is easy to miss). This and other trails in the valley are not part of the GPT files yet, but GPX files can be found on the website of Rincon Bonito (glamping accommodation for groups) that presumably created the trail. We camped by the viewpoint; what a wonderful experience! There are plenty of places to pitch up a tent, but little protection from wind. We found a wind protected camp in a dried-out puddle at (S 42° 02.705', W 072° 06.193'). Make sure to bring water, since the last reliable water source is in the valley, just before the turnoff onto the steep trail. From the viewpoint, we attempted to climb the local mountain, but beyond 1500m, it appears to require bush bashing. Our track: [[Media:GPT 22 Ventisquero Viewpoint.gpx]]. [https://rinconbonito.cl/experiencias/ The GPX on their site].
The viewpoint is within the Pumalin National Park, but the whole valley seems to be private property and camping is forbidden outside official campsites, which begin quite far into the valley. There are plenty of spots to pitch up a tent nonetheless (which is what we did).
For packrafters, going down the river must surely be a highlight! Rincon Bonito offers packrafting (maybe only for their guests?), they describe it as class II+.

Our second part followed the regular route 22N from El Manso to the Cochamo trailhead. This was an enjoyable hike and we found the trail to be in good condition, although it gets pretty muddy around El Arco (and that's after one week of sunny weather). There is quite a bit of pointless up and down between km45 and km79. Additionally, our hiking distance was often 20-25% longer than expected, as there are many switchbacks too small to be represented on the track files. We liked hiking this section northbound, as the rainforest and the views get more and more impressive as you go along. La Junta has a lot of local hiking options (e.g. hiking into the Anfiteatro valley or on top of Cerro Trinidad), but we didn't spend any extra days because the weather was turning.

Logistics: to get to the start of section 22, take the daily bus that leaves at 7.45am from Puerto Montt (stops at 8.15 in Puerto Varas at intersection el Salvador/San Pedro S 41° 19.081', W 072° 59.038', and later in Cochamo). The bus company Río Puelo has a ticket office in Puerto Montt, their WhatsApp number is +56 9 7408 9199. From there, take the ferry across Lago Tagua Tagua and the connecting bus down the valley to your respective trailhead (El Manso for the Cochamo valley, Primer Corral for the Ventisquiero valley). Note that travel is slow... We arrived at the Primer Corral at 4pm. We left a bag of food for the second half of our trip. Unfortunately it was visible from the parking lot and got stolen, so we resupplied at the Llanada Grande supermarket. The bus makes a stop there for ~15min, if you want a quick resupply there (it's a bit bigger than in El Manso). We hitchhiked to El Manso, which worked after two hours of waiting/walking (not a lot of traffic).

If you are in the Llanada Grande area, go to Camping Reflejo Azul. The campsite itself is average, but it has the most beautiful river we have ever seen in our lives. Visit this truly special place before Instagram influencers find out about it and it becomes overrun by hordes of tourists. Day access is possible also for 5.000 CLP.

Photos: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/permalink/1732098767296002/?app=fbl

* '''2024-Jan-4 / 7.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RH + OP-LK-2 + RP / Lauren & Sebastian'''

Note: We were told a reservation is needed for a camp site at La Junta to be allowed into the valley from Cochamo side, so we did that. However, one of the wikiexplora entry mentioned that they were allowed in when mentioning that they wanted to camp at El Arco Refuge but we read it too late. Camp Trawen is the most expensive (15k per person), which is the reason why it’s been available on short notice. There are several other sold-out camps around for 8k-10k.

Day 1: We hitchhiked to Cochamo Base Camp at 9am and reached Camp Trawen by 2pm. It would have been better to go on the El Arco Refuge straight away and camp there. It’s a touristy stretch and in our view not really worth doing, if you like the general quiet nature of the GPT.

Day 2: Camped at the beach at Lago Vidal. Easy hike but lots of ups and downs.

Day 3: We packrafted Lago Vidal and had a good lunch at Luisa’s place (make sure to drop by!), before continuing on to Torrentoso (not the paid camp, but on the meadow a few hundred meters after the official camp).

Day 4: The bridge at wp Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) does not exist anymore. It’s not a demanding ford but there are short steep ups and downs on both sides. We stayed near wp Settler {22N} [50.1/307].

Day 5: We rivered in at wp Rio Manso. The ride was super scenic and beautiful and there were no rapids, just a bit of boiling water but nothing difficult, which might be due to different water levels compared to previous accounts. It’s 45 minutes from there to the bridge at wp Bridge {22N} [40.8+0.2/36]. We rivered out behind the bridge on the right side. There is a nice flat beach which leads to the cabin of Harv and Veronica. They let us camp on their land and even offered a hot (wood fired) shower for 2.5k per person. There is a cervezeria and shop across the road for resupply.

Day 6: We took the bus at 1 pm to intersection at wp X {22-01} [25.0/187] and went on OP-MR-V (along Hunter’s estate) to Lago Azul. You will be charged 5k per person to access the lake. We crossed Lago Azul with strong waves and tailwind so we sailed to the other side in no time.

Day 7: Crossed Lago de Las Rocas, Lago Inferior, and Lago Puelo to the Argentinian border control which opens at 8am next morning so we camped there. Next day we finished at Lago Puelo which is a popular tourist beach.

Tip: It is a hot & dusty walk to town from the beach and hitchhiking is not as easy in this part of Argentina as in Chile. Keep some small change of USD or Argentinian pesos for the bus ride to resupply in town. If you plan to continue packrafting Lago Puelo on GPT23 after resupplying, the earliest bus back to the beach reaches around 7.30am but it will be too late as the wind picks up by 8am. Lago Puelo is known for its strong gusts so it’s best to check wind forecast and paddle early morning 5.30am to cross. Therefore it may be easier to camp at one of the campsites nearer to the beach instead of staying in town. Just go there for resupplying.

*'''2023 Dec OH-TL-V / Anh'''
Note: the trail OH-TL-V alias Cerro Arco Iris [from La Junta] was damaged by big rocks in the last season and is completely closed. A new route or repair is not in planning.

* '''2023-12-17 to 2023-12-21 / 5 days / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO /RR & Option 01B / Roman'''

Route: Hiking from Cochamó to El Manso. Bus to Lago de Las Rocas. Packrafted the lake and Lago Inferior. Hiked to Lago Puelo.

Due to the border crossing, there is a thread about it on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/permalink/1709504102888802/. I applied online - no answer. Went to the carabineros in Cochamó they couldn't issue it, so I went without it (it worked without a problem)

Started in Cochamó (there is a bus to the entry I just got him by hitchhiking so I don't know the schedule) and had a reservation for Camp Trawen (Fruit, Groceries, Electricity). This is getting checked at the entrance if you have one. The trail to the camp was a bit muddy (2 days of rain before the start) but all doable. The next day went to the northern end of Lago Vidal Gormaz and slept there at Lake {22-05} [7.9/604]. Bridge destroyed at: -41.43696, -71.96632 and Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado). Both are crossable dry feed due to trees. Generally, there is no fording necessary after Lago Vidal Gormaz. Before yes. Packrafted Rio Manso. There were no rapids on the map, it's mentioned in the Manuel that it can be challenging. There are some rapids but all are doable and manageable (I am a beginner with kayak experience and an open deck packraft). You can get easy access to the river at -41.692561, -71.972725 this is 300m after the mark in the file. There is a dry river bed to avoid BB to get to the River. The river is fast flowing. Follow the GPS only at one point where the river splits pay extra attention: turn left as shownin the GPS: -41.698615, -71.985482 . Went out at the south side of the bride: Bridge {22N} [40.8+0.2/36] (Rio Manso) on the right side. There is a trail to the street with one gate where you can walk through on the right side. The shop Settlement, Shop, Bus {22N} [40.7/36] (El Manso) has good supplies and free WiFi. The trail to this point is very good. Based on previous comments and a chat to a local I want to skip at least to Puerto Urrutia [comment in: 2023-FEB-01 to 2023-FEB-07]. There is an official bus going all the way from Rampa Punta

Maldonado -> Segundo Corral. Find the schedule here: https://imgur.com/a/7MVEscb . The shop owner said the bus is normally there at 02:00 PM. The bus was there in my case at 02:30 PM. This bus stops at the large supermarket [Supermercado Llanada Grande] a great place for a last resupply). The bus also stops at Puerto Urrutia but I went all the way to Lago de Las Rocas and used OH-MR-V {22-01B} [8.2+1.9] to get to the lake. Started packrafting at 05:00 PM. The start was fine. The wind got worse during the evening and was to my capabilities on the maximum with serious waves. Strong wind from the north. It was pleasantly paddling after going through the gap at -42.069608, -71.813735. Camped at Lake, Camp {22S} [21.8/314]. Got there at 07:45 PM. Crossed the border without any problems. Packrafted Lago Inferior and got in the water here: Lake {22S} [20.9/201] at 10:00 AM. The wind got stronger but manageable. Exited the lake at 11:15 AM at -42.102244, -71.742575. The trail back to the RR is good to hike. From there, the trail is in good condition. Due to the higher water in Rio Azul fording and therefore the RR is not possible. You get also the recommendation from the Argentinien carabineros to take Option 03. I didn't want to take this and followed the RR to this point: -42.091481, -71.633667. From there I followed the trail to this point: -42.09399, -71.634188. There is an old dock [image here: https://imgur.com/a/5LMsKA1]to put in you packraft. The trail can be downloaded at the end of the comment. There I packrafted with very strong onshore wind and if it hadn't been for only 300m I wouldn't have done it to (03:15 PM):-42.096114, -71.628682 ,and walked from there to the end of GPT22.

Overall: great section! It's a nice trail to hike and packrafting rRioEl Manso is a lot of fun and a great change in perspective after hiking for a few days. After that, the trail continues bto bein a good condition. The conditions for Lago de Las Rocas should be closely checked. I would definitely recommend it!

Trail download: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5q7YZzDoW3qlKypqwBg

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Dec-03 to 2023-Dec-12 / 9 days / PACKRAFTING / NOBO & SOBO / Jordan Jennings'''
Route:

took bus to Primer Corral>Arroyo Ventisquero>Rio Puelo (walked 13km of rapids through canyon)>Lago Tagua Tagua>Rio Puelo>Estero Reloncavi to Cochamó (nobo) took bus back towards Primer Corral from Cochamó, asked to be dropped off near Lago Azul.. Lago Azul>lago las rocas>Lago Inferior>Lago Puelo>Lago Puelo town (sobo).

Highlights:

Arroyo ventisquero: is well worth a visit, packrafting or hiking. I got told that there is a hostel run by an abuela 4km further up the valley from Rincon Bonito (posh cabins) where the route on track files stops (c20km up valley from Primer Corral). Between the hostel and Rincon there are rapids, so be prepared to walk back to Rincon to put boat in water. The river from Rincon to Rio Puelo is stunning and very easy in packraft.

Lago Azul: If you flip flop (as recommended if packrafting), and return back to Primer Corral for sobo travel as Jan mentions in the manual, ask the bus driver to drop you at Lago Azul, rather than taking the bus closer to the Lago las rocas trailhead/Primer Corral. The 3km walk from the bus stop to the lake is easy and I got super lucky and passed a local horse race (Carreras) on a Saturday. Maybe ask ahead when they are on?!

Other comments:

The hiking section bypassing Rio Puelo (first set of) rapids through canyon, the 13km or so took me all day. Parts of the trail were barely a trail, very slow kms. Although I was also a bit sick so my experience might be tainted. The alternative is taking roads on the right hand side of the river.

I hiked the section between the Argentinian border patrol and lago puelo town (13km) which passed through some stunning farmland (lago puelo can get angry with wind as with any big lake). The dotted line section or shortcut which requires two river fords was impassable for me. Rio Azul was not even close to being fordable mid December. And even if you did pass, you would have to take the road to Puelo anyway.

In terms of transport to Primer Corral, the bus leaves Cochamó at 10:30am and Puelo at 11:30am (same bus, which I think starts in Puerto Montt v early). From the ferry there’s another local bus that will essentially drop you wherever you want (en route) to primer corral. Super easy.

==Season 2022/23==
* '''2023-Feb-18 to 2023-Feb-23 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 22-01 / Martin & Helena'''

A lot has been already written, so just a few comments from our side:

No problem with entering the valley in SOBO direction, until the noon aprox., saying you will spend the night at the refugio El Arco - they have some time estimate for this hike and can’t let you in if its late. By the entrance you can buy some useful things that might be hard to buy in Cochamo, like gas or peanut butter. There was also a beer truck with quite good wifi connection (only during summer). Crowds of people in both directions, quite muddy trail. Detour to the Toboganes is definitely worth it. We spend the night after all in a marked camp aprox. 4 kms before the refugio and it was a good decision - there were quite a lot of people when we passed by the next day.

From the refugio its nice and easy walking. We spent the night on the southern side of Lago Vidal Gomaz where is amazing campsite Doña Luisa, for I think 5000 CLP pp. We bought there beer, some cheese and bread in the morning, and you can also charge electronics inside. It is possible to have proper breakfast or dinner, it looked all very tasty. At km N 40.7 is shop with all the basic things + great brewery next to it, definitely stop there if you are a fan.

Based on other comments and our time schedule we decided to take the alternative 22-01 to Llanada Grande. This is a good resuppy spot as there is a new and big (at least in comparison to what you would expect in a place like this) supermarket that replaced the old one destroyed by fire. Good place to stay is a campsite at the end of the village, on the right side, run by really nice lady. Not expensive and if its free, you can stay for the same price in a so called refugio, that is actually just a very small room, but for us better than a tent. Hot water and electricity + possibility to buy pizza and maybe some other small things - there is actually no restaurant in the village. Some more road walking around Lago Totoral to Rio Puelo to connect back to RR. In general not very attractive part of the trail. Great restaurant in Hostal Puelo Libre with local beer and view on the river.

From the port its again easy walking on the RR again. Drunk settler and quite agressive dogs out of his control at S km 7.2 so be careful. We slept half way to Las Rocas lake. We thought about taking the RR around the lake, but the landslide caused by snow (aprox. 1.5 km from the port) looked quite difficult to pass. We discovered there is possibility to cross the lake on one of the locals boat, which we did in the end. We were lucky that after waiting for some time in the port a car with locals arrived. Happily for us they arranged a boat transfer with other residents to get to the other side of the lake, where they went for a lunch. We were able to go with them, and after picking up their friends, we all hop off the boat close to the police station. Great experience and we learned a lot about this area and people living here. We paid 10k CLP. In the comments here is a contact for the guy with a boat, but without signal it must be arranged in advance, and the price might differ when not sharing the transfer with others. No problem with the border check. It took us around 4 hrs to get to the argentinian side, where everyone was super friendly as well. They offered us to camp there, but we decided to make it to Lago Puelo, which took us 2 more hrs. The landscape changes significantly on the other side where everything is more dry. No problem with the river crossing. We got off the trail directly on the main road.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-FEB-01 to 2023-FEB-07 / 7 days / hiking / SOBO / Cochamó - Lago Puelo / Anna & Christopher '''

We hitchhiked from Eco Camping El Valle to the entry of the park and arrived around 8 am. We told them that we would camp at the Refugio El Arco and explained our further route. Until la Junta there were lots of chilenean tourists, therefore the path was very good only with some muddy stretches. Like Véronica we walked to Toboganes, a waterfall/stream with beautiful rock formations. There were tons of people, but it's worth it. La junta seems to be an amazing place for rock climbing, we would have loved to have some climbing gear with us.

After la Junta there were almost no more hikers. We camped next to the Refugio, as there were already two other groups of hikers sleeping in the Refugio.

Until Lago grande there are still some muddy stretches and blowdowns, but generally it is a good path. From there on the path is perfectly maintained. We camped at approx. km 66 next to Río los Morros.

Nice path until El Manso. We resupplied at the minimercado and camped next to the river, which was a beautiful camping spot with lots of delicious blackberrys.

The next morning we arrived at Señora Ocos house around 8 am. She contacted multiple people and luckily found out that there was somebody crossing the river to our side at 11 am. The man, whose name we unfortunately forgot, was super friendly and dropped us off after the river mouth of Rio Traidor, close to where he lives. He charged 10.000 CLP p.p.

The path to the first settler was mediocre and afterwards got worse and worse until it was almost pure buschwhacking. It was the worst we had so far on the GPT. Thorns.. Lots of thorns tearing away at your clothes, backpack and skin.
We camped at the river at approx. km 12, which was a beautiful spot.
Until the settlement Las Nieves the path continued beeing bad with lots of bush bashing. The settler told us that no locals use that path and she also told us that there are no regular boat transfers to Puerto Urrutia on weekends (it was sunday..).
We wouldn't do that stretch next to Rio Puelo again and instead hitchhike from El Manso to Puerto Urrutia.

At the boat transfer waypoint to Puerto Urrutia we had Entel service and contacted one lodging on the other side. They told us to go to the last house 1km back to ask for a transfer (it's the house of the man who does the boat transfer on weekdays). But we got lucky and a boat passed by and took us to the other side. The man on the boat also told us that the path from Río Traidor to Puerto Urrutia "is closed".

We continued to Lago verde, where we planned to camp, but it's surrounded by dense forest, apart from a private property.
That spot is amazing, a little landing stage to go swimming, a great view and a very friendly owner. She even baked some delicious apple bread for us. For camping she charged us 8000 CLP p.p.. That was definetly worth it.

After Lago verde there is a minimarket. We didn't check it out, but there is no resupply wp yet.

After reading previous blogs and having had enough of thorns we decided to cross el Lago de Las Rocas by boat. Therefore there is a walkie talkie on the landing stage on the northern end of the lake with which you can contact Richard. We also got his number (+56958694897), if you want to contact him in advance. When we arrived at the lake, there were already lots of people waiting for the boat so we just waited with them and after some time got knocked the boat with them. The ride was really nice across the crystal clear blue water and we were charged 5000 p.p.

From the southern end of the lake it's just a couple of minutes to walk to the chilenian border control. We continued on and camped at km 30 at the river. Again a really beautiful spot.

The next day we passed the argentinian border control and continued to Lago Puelo.

The section was really beautiful, except the part with the thorns. There are lots of streams along the whole trail, so one does not need to carry much water.

* '''2023-Jan-29 to 2023-Feb-02 / 5 days / hiking / NOBO / RR mostly / Frank'''

I got the bus-ferry-bus from Puerto Montt to Segundo Corral. To avoid the landslide at Laguna Las Rocas & delays with the river ferries I walked on the road from Segundo Corral to El Manso, about 50KM. Easy but not very interesting walking. It takes a full day to get from Puerto Montt on the bus to Segundo Corral so I believe it would be better to go SOBO with an early start to get through La Junta, otherwise you need 2 additional days for travel.

Stayed @ nice & cheap campsite at bridge over Rio Colorado & camped at El Arco. The trail approaching El Arco was muddy & a bit swampy (it had been raining). It's possible to go by boat across Lago Vidal Gomez but it's an easy 3 hour walk.

Got the bus again to Segundo Corral & ferry to Paso Bolson. The trail across the border is generally in good condition. There is some easy bushbashing on the Chilean side for about 1KM before the border & some fallen trees but they are straightforward to go over. Rio Azul was easily fordable in early February.

* '''2023-Jan-10 to 2023-Jan-14 / 5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR, also GPT22-01 / Véronica '''

Route: Cochamó - La Junta - Lago Vidal Gormáz - El Manso - Puerto Urrutio via Option 1 - Lago Las Rocas - Lago Puelo (Argentina)

The borders of Paso El León and Paso El Bolsón are both opened again for tourists! Go for it! It is a beautiful section with wonderful people, such a contrast to where I started the GPT further north.

In Cochamó, I stayed at Eco Camping El Valle, right at the entrance to the Cochamó River Valley. Paid 7000 clp, very nice campground, there are tarps over the picnic tables at each site so you have a dry place to hang out even if it rains :) Since I spent the night so close to the trailhead, it was easy to get to the guarded valley entrance (Road End {22N} [109.8/58]) early. I did not have a camping reservation for La Junta. I arrived at the trailhead at 7:30 a.m., explained my route to the staff, saying I would stay at Refugio El Arco that night. They let me through no problem. The trail to La Junta is a bit muddy, but nothing bad, my feet stayed dry in my trailrunners despite the fact it was also raining off and on. Beautiful path through the Valvidian rainforest, I really enjoyed all the green and the moss. When I reached the La Junta area, I stashed my pack in some trees and made a short detour to Las Toboganes. They are only 0.7 km off the regular route, and highly worthwhile to see! What a spectacular area, I totally see the Yosemite resemblence, and would love to go back someday.

I found the trail after La Junta (all the way to Lago Vidal Gormáz) to be in good shape, contrary to what others have written. It was maybe slightly less maintained than the popular trail leading into the valley, but it was still very clear and easy to follow — not overgrown, no blowdowns, just a bit muddy in some places. Granted, it has been drier than normal so far this summer. None of the fords went above my knees, and sometimes I could cross the creeks without even getting my feet wet, all very easy.

The refugio at El Arco is dark and without any furniture inside. I found it much nicer to camp in the nearby meadow just south of the trail there. There are outhouses.

Nice path from Lago Vidal Gormáz all the way to El Manso. Very beautiful in this valley as well. Met a few arrieros along the way. Most of the rivers have bridges crossing them. There is a small camp at the bridge over Río Colorado.

In El Manso, I topped off my food supply at the shop on the main road. It has a good selection of food items. Then I went to Señora Oco's house to try and arrange a boat transfer over Río Puelo. She and her family are very friendly and welcoming. I arrived there mid-afternoon, but she could not get in radio contact with anyone on the other side. In the evening, we heard back from Hospedaje Nancy, who charged 60,000 clp for a crossing upriver all the way to Río Traidor (where she lives). This I found too expensive for me traveling alone. Señora Oco baked some bread and I was able to buy some. She also said I was welcome to camp in the fields behind her house while waiting for a response from settlers Paulina and Jovino regarding a crossing to their place (much more direct and therefore likely much cheaper). The next morning, we still hadn't received any response from Paulina and Jovino either via radio or Whatsapp (they may have been away). Because of this, I decided to take the gravel road to Puerto Urrutia (Option 1), and forgo crossing Río Puelo, unfortunately. Despite this setback, I'm really glad I got to meet and spend time with Señora Oco and her family, they are such kind people.

I was able to hitch most of the way to Puerto Urrutia, where I rejoined the regular route. The trail from there all the way to Lago Las Rocas is mostly easy and clear. There were a few confusing junctions in the vicinity of Lago Verde, so I kept a close eye on the GPS there. After crossing the road after that, the beginning of RR -TL-V {22S} [2.8/7.1+2.7] is tricky to find. There are lots of fallen trees and many forest paths. The GPS was very helpful there too until I finally found the right path. After about 700 m it merges with a nice clear path all the way to Lago Las Rocas.

As has been previously reported, there is a large rockslide about 2 km in once you reach Lago Las Rocas. It didn't look overly dangerous to me, the boulders were large and seemed solid enough. I started crossing it right at the bottom where the rocks fall into the lake, as it looked to be the easiest and safest way across. I was maybe 50 meters through it, when a boat came along, and the people in it told me to hop in! What lucky timing! As we passed the rest of the rockslide, I could see the last part of it was steep, loose scree rather than big boulders. That part would have definitely been nerve-wracking to cross, and I was very grateful for the boat ride. The settlers who owned the boat live about 3 km along the trail, at a little bay/inlet in the lake. They have a nice beach and campground too. That's where I rejoined the trail. Beyond their house, the "Camino Los Mosquitos," as it is locally called, gets progressively worse in terms of overgrowth and blowdowns. The trail has not been cleared since the past winter, and not been used either. The stretch between kilometers 4 and 6.5 is the worst. It felt more like pure bushwhacking than following a trail. The path was mostly burried beneath walls of downed trees and branches, it got very hard to follow at times. Lots of climbing over and under vegetation, some of it quite thorny too. Very slow and tiring. My pack got ripped up a bit and so did my clothing. Had I known the trail was this bad, I would have taken the option on the east side of Lago Las Rocas. It's hard to imagine it could be in worse shape than the regular route.

When I got to the Chilean Border Control it was around 6:30 p.m., so too late to cross that day. The border agent working there was very friendly, but he couldn't get in contact with his supervisor to get approval for stamping my passport with the next day's date. So I camped back at Lago Las Rocas, and the next morning came back at 8 a.m. when the border post reopened. The trail on the Chilean side of the border was a bit rough in places, it has been neglected since the winter too. But it was not as bad as the previous stretch along Lago Las Rocas. Once I got into Argentina, it got much better. The trails in Parque Nacional Lago Puelo are well-maintained, and I met some day hikers. No issues at the Argentine Border Control.

I was able to ford Río Azul easily, thanks to the dry weather. There are three branches of the river to cross (the GPS waypoints only show two of them). The middle branch is the widest and deepest. The water there went up to my upper thighs (I'm 165 cm), but the current was slow and it never felt dangerous.

Now I'm skipping down to GPT32 to continue my adventure further south :) The northern sections that I hiked from 6 to 22 were simply amazing, with great weather almost the entire time. Thank you, all!

* '''2022-Oct-19 to 2022-Oct-24 / 6 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / ???'''

Here are the main points because our story is long :)
Paso el bolson and El Leon are closed for tourists until further notice
Some of trails are in bad condition because of the hard winter but they might be cleared in the following weeks.
Landslide in Lago Las rocas - very dangerous part to cross. We suggest to take an optional route

The trail starts in valle cochamo. We did not have any reservations but as we were in low season we were not worried. However the lady from the tourist office in Cochamo told us to arrive at the entrance of the valley between 7 & 8 to avoid being rejected. At 7h50 there was nobody at the reception so we did not have any trouble, but we cannot say for the high season.
You can arrange a car transfer to go the valley entrance. The numbers of the drivers are available at the tourist office.

The trail until La Junta is muddy but well maintained - no worries there. Up there we met some arrieros and the locals from the camping and they told us that the trail was closed a bit further because of snow (up to 2 meters) in laguna Blanca. This is the highest part of the trail (about 1100m). The river crossings were feasible, but as they forecasted rain for the next day, we preferred to turn back in order to avoid being blocked between high rivers and snow.

Back on the road between Cochamo and Puelo, we caught at about 10:30 the bus that leaves at 7:45 from Puerto Montt, to go to Rio Manso. There is a well furnished Shop where you can even find gas.
We remained in the Southbound direction and went to Senora Oco's house. She was very welcoming, and her and her grandchild helped us in arranging a boat transfer for the following morning (nothing was possible the same day). We paid 50000 pesos to go from their house to Rio Traidor - close to Nancy hospedaje. Indeed, we skipped the first part of the trail as they told us that it was very closed with a lot of small trees and not used anymore. Maybe it would be cheaper to cross a bit south using the cable car or directly from Manso to Rio Traidor.

Until the Rio Tigre, settler # 22N [7.7/157], the trail is visible but sometimes with some obstacles (fallen trees). After this settling, you will have to cross the Rio Tigre which might be the hardest to cross on your way if you have a lot of rain. There is a bridge indicated on the tracks but it has been swept away this winter. The best place to cross is a bit higher following the river, follow the horse track. We did not have any problem crossing, and probably the settler could help you with his horse if the river is too high. That is an advantage of the Southbound direction.

After, the trail is really clear. We found the last transfer across Rio Puelo about 1 km before the point indicated on the track. It is his job to do the crossings and he also does sportive fishing if you are interested. Look for a house with a border collie with a piece of wood around the neck :)

From Puerto Urrutia, the trail is clear again until the road. There is a shop at 600m on the right. Again here, the trail is closed due to fallen trees at the beginning, but the locals (last house on the right) will help you find another path. Clear trail until Lago Las Rocas.

Once you reach the Lago Las rocas you will be blocked after 2km. Indeed there was a landslide this winter and you have to cross a very dangerous part of about 300 m of rocky mountain slide. It is not stabilized yet. We went through but we do not advise it.
Also, there were a lot of fallen trees and the path was really tiring. The locals will probably clear the path in the following weeks. To get more information we suggest to contact the camping Playa Las Rocas on Instagram.
You can also consider the other routes or arrange a boat crossing.

Finally we arrived at the border crossing. Unfortunately it was closed due to the Covid, except for the very locals (people from Cochamo). Apparently Paso el Leon is closed as well for tourists. Be aware of that if you have to cross the Chilean- Argentinian borders, as small passes seem to be closed for tourists.
In the end we had to go back to Puerto Montt crossing the Lago inferior with a free boat (ask the carabineros), and then the bus-ferry-bus from Segundo Corral.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2021-Nov-23 & 2021-Nov-25 / 2 days / Packrafting / SOBO / Estuario de Reloncavi from Ralun to Rio Puelo (Western shore) / Jan Dudeck & Meylin Ubilla'''

We paddled in two easy days the roughly 40 km southbound.

Start at Ralun at Puente Petrohue: On the right side of the bridge (view in river flow direction) is a suitable put-in and good spot to camp. The gate was closed but not locked. There are signs of people occasionally camping there.

Ralun to Cochamo: Packrafters in need to resupply can do this in Cochamo about 16 water kilometers from the put-in. Both, the western and eastern coast are suitable for packrafting. The eastern side is next to the main road what facilitates switching to hiking. The western side is less intervened and more scenic.

Ralun to Rio Puelo: Again, the western and eastern coast are suitable for packrafting. The eastern side is next to the main road what facilitates switching to hiking but requires the crossing of a 4 km wide bay in open water. The western side is less intervened and more scenic but requires crossing the 3 km wide Estuario de Reloncavi near Rio Puelo. On the western side are also the Termas de Sotomo that are suitable for camping.

Wind: On nice sunny days “viento sur” often kicks in around 10 am making southbound paddling difficult or unfeasible. We had two partially overcasted days and could paddle on the first day till 4 pm when wind became annoying strong. On the second day around 3 pm the wind and waves became unpleasant but by this time we were walking the final kilometers into Rio Puelo.

GPT22: Southbound packrafters may take in Cochamo or Rio Puelo the bus to Lago TaguaTagua an get to the recommended packrafting starting point of section GPT22 halfway into this section to Flip-Flop as recommended.

* '''2021-NOV-18 / 1 day / hiking / NOBO / Cochamó Valley (Lago Tagua Tagua - Lago Grande) / Tobías '''

The Section between La Junta Base and Lago Vidal Gormez was very challenging. It had been raining a lot, so the Trail was very muddy and I had to cross several rivers and creeks. Went straight from Cochamó to Lago Grande and camped there in some Snow. Met only a few settlers. After reaching Lago Vidal Gormez, the Trail was easy and I enjoyed the hike a lot. Amaizing área up there!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-FEB-18 to 2020-FEB-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tyler '''
I didn’t have problems getting a campsite at la junta on the spot luckily. AMAZING area that I’ll be returning to again to do all the day hikes in. Aside from that, most the trail was very muddy, rainy, and unmaintained. This got a bit difficult after the 3rd day in a row. Good places to camp at the lakes over the pass SOBO. When I got down to Lago Vidal Gomez the trail improved.. I got some bread from a settler at the start of the lake. There right on the trail and super friendly and have rooms. The last ferry across Tagua Tagua leaves at 7 pm. I didn’t make it, so I slept underneath the office/bathrooms and took the ferry at 8:00 the next morning. I believe there’s another ferry at 12.

* '''. 2020-Jan-09 to 2020-Jan-11 / hiking / SOBO / RR / Shaun'''

Despite the austere warnings on the La Junta Camping website, I was able to make a reservation at short notice in high season, and the back and forth process only took a few hours. In Cochamó, I was warned that due to recent rain the river crossings at El Arco and another nearby river would likely be impassable. With four more days of heavy rain forecast, I decided to take the bus-ferry-bus combo to Puerto Urrutia and try to walk northbound from there with the optimistic hope that by the time I reached El Arco the river would be passable or, at least, the wait would be less. However, 10km north of the Rio Puelo crossing (service starts at 9am) my way was blocked by a high and fast river. I then retraced my steps and completed the rest of the section southbound - which was straightforward. The trail on the west side of Lago de la Roca until the frontera is a bit overgrown but still easy to see and nothing particularly slowed me down. On the Argentinian side the trail is well maintained. It is not permitted to camp on the 12km stretch between the border posts. I arrived too late to cross that day, but the Chileans stamped my passport with the next day’s date so I didn’t have to wait for the post to open at 9am. The Argentinian border guards informed me that because of the rain, the Rio Azul was too high to ford at the point on the regular hiking route just before Lago Puelo so I took the alternative route (Oh-Tl-V@22-04-#001) a few kms north and crossed over the La Pasarela bridge.

* '''2020-Jan-22 to 2020-Jan-26 / 5 days / hiking / SOBO / parque de la vallee de Cochamo - La Pasarella / Arnaud '''

As we arrived from Puerto Montt we were with the bus and stopped directly at the entrance of the private parque de la vallee de Cochamo.
As it is private, there are some rules to get in, or they block you at the control point.
The entrance is free but you need to have a reservation in one of the official camp sites there. To get the reservation, you can do it on internet (but you need to wait for the confirmation and it can be several days long), or do it directly there (red house), they give you the reservation voucher if there are places available (number seem to be limited). Then you pay the night when you reach the camp sites (6000 clp/pers).
Or the other solution is to say that you sleep in the refugio del Arco. It is 23km further after the control. Then it is free and no reservation is needed, but this is possible only before 10am (after they block you). After 10am the only way to pass is to sleep in the camp sites. They block you if you do not have a
reservation voucher for one camp site.
This spot (la Junta) is famous among the chilenos so the access to the camp sites is really overrunned. The path is easy to walk.
Once you go further than the campsites, you're alone, so it is better.
The path is clearly marked. There are bridges for most of the rivers you cross. But it is very muddy.
At the lago Vidal you can resupply a bit with those living there (you can also sleep in their camp sites).
In El Manso you can find a minimarket with lots of things.
Then, we decided to follow the road instead of the track because we were in a hurry with a deadline in El Bolson, until we reached la cruce de la rocas. There are buses or hitchiking is easy.
Crossing borders was easy. There are 12km between the chilean stamp and the Argentin one that we did in 3.5 hours.
At the very end we have not not crossed El Rio Azul, we walked 7 more km to the north to reach La Pasarella.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*In Cochamo go down towards the lake. There is a church on the left & before you reach it there is a hospedaje on the right, good & cheap.

Really nice Cafe (Materia Cochamo) with a good selection of coffee, cake (Kuchen) & sandwiches ca 50 meters before turning right to the cheap campsite.

*There is a good place to stay NOBO 500 metres before the junction where the road turns towards Laguna Las Rocas. Farmhouse on RHS of road has rooms & meals. Cheap, friendly & good

*In Segundo Corral there are two campsites. The first one is just before the school, it just says Kuchen but you can camp there. Cheap, nice family & they do meals. There is a campsite after the school but the owner was drunk & looking for an argument.
Lots of campsites at Lago Totoral (on the road, not on RR)
It's possible to camp near the Argentinian border control.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*2023 / Martin & Helena
We spent the night on the southern side of Lago Vidal Gomaz where is amazing campsite Doña Luisa, for I think 5000 CLP pp. We bought there beer, some cheese and bread in the morning, and you can also charge electronics inside. It is possible to have proper breakfast or dinner, it looked all very tasty. At km N 40.7 is shop with all the basic things + great brewery next to it, definitely stop there if you are a fan.

*Zapatoria Puerto Varas.He is located in the back corner of a market like building across the street from the Santa Isabella on San Bernardo street. San Bernardo & Del Salvador. I payed extra (10mil total) to have them finished and ready to go that day

=Transport to and from Route=

* February 2023 / Gerald
Bus lago puelo - El bolson:
According to the timetable the bus is leaving from the lake every full hour from 7am till midnight

* January 2023 Frank
To avoid the landslide at Laguna Las Rocas you can walk on the road or get the bus to Segundo Corral then from Lago Inferior about 1.5KM from Segundo Corral there is a ferry to Paso Bolson (Chilean border control).The government subsidised ferry runs Monday-Friday only from 8-12 & 2PM-6PM & is only 2000 pesos. You need to radio the ferryman to arrange pickup, easily done in Segundo Corral.

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
We decided to cross el Lago de Las Rocas by boat. Therefore there is a walkie talkie on the landing stage on the northern end of the lake with which you can contact Richard (+56958694897),we were charged 5000 p.p.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*2023 / Martin & Helena
From the port its again easy walking on the RR again. Drunk settler and quite agressive dogs out of his control at S km 7.2 so be careful. We slept half way to Las Rocas lake.

*Northbound and southbound hiking is feasible. However, due to the controlled private southbound access through the La Junta área, hiking in that direction is only possible with a camping reservation, or by arriving at the checkpoint before 10am. A northbound traverse may therefore be preferred. For hikers generally heading south, it is possible to take the single ticket, half-day bus-ferry-bus combination south from Cochamó to Puerto Urrutia, hike the 120km north to Cochamó, then return to Puerto Urrutia and resume the section southwards from there.

*Crossing the border is typically straightforward, however it is not permitted to camp on the 12km between the border posts. So if you arrive too late to cross, it is necessary to camp at the border post and cross the next day. In this situation, Chilean officials will stamp your passport with the next day’s date so you don’t need to wait for the office to open that morning.

*Southbound access to the popular La Junta area is controlled at a private checkpoint and only granted to those with a prior camping reservation, or those arriving before 10am and therefore early enough to make it on to the free and unmanaged El Arco campsite 23km away. Reservations for La Junta can be made online at cochamo.com, but there may not be availability and the process may take several days, so hiking this section southwards may not be possible.Therefore, an option for hikers generally heading south is to take the bus-ferry-bus combination from Cochamó across Lago Tagua Tagua and on to Puerto Urrutia, hike 120km north back to Cochamó, then take the bus-ferry-bus south again and hike the remainder of the section southwards from Puerto Urrutia.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT22 - Cochamó]]

=Images=

[[Archivo: | ]]

{| border="1" style="border-collapse:collapse"
|+'''GPT22: Cochamó'''
| colspan="4" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| GPT22: Cochamó
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Hiking
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packrafting
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Group
| colspan="2" | D: Lagos Chilenos
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Total
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|'''160.6 km'''
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|'''51 h'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''136.6 km'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|'''35 h'''
|-
| style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Region
| colspan="2" | Chile & Argentina: Los Lagos (X) & Chubut
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Trails (TL)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|137.9 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|85.9%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 20.3 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|14.9%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Start
| colspan="2" | Cochamó
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Minor Roads (MR)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|10.8 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|6.7%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 1.8 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 1.3%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Finish
| colspan="2" | Lago Puelo (Puerto)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Primary Roads (PR)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|9.7 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|6.0%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 2.8 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 2.0%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Status
| colspan="2" | Published & Verified
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Cross-Country (CC)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|2.2 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|1.4%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 0.5 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 0.4%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Traversable
| colspan="2" | Dec - Apr (Maybe: Sep, Oct, Nov, May)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Bush-Bashing (BB)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packraft
| colspan="2" | Very Useful
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Ferry (FY)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|(1.8 km)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|(1.1%)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Connects to
| colspan="2" | GPT21, GPT23
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Investigation (I)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| (1.9 km)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| (1.4%)
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Options
| colspan="2" | 268 km (9 Options & Variants)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Exploration (EXP)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Hiking
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packrafting
| rowspan="4" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Total on Water
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''111.1 km'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''81.4%'''
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Attraction
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|4 (of 5)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 5 (of 5)
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| River (RI)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 62.5 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 45.7%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Difficulty
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|4 (of 5)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 4 (of 5)
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Lake (LK)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 32.4 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 23.7%
|-
| style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Direction
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|Both ↓↑
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|Both ↓↑
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Fjord (FJ)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 16.3 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|11.9%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Comment
| colspan="7" | Hiking: Flip-Flop recommended
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Character
| colspan="7" | Packrafting: Flip-Flop recommended
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Challenges
| colspan="7" | Valdivian Rain Forest, Sea Coast, Farmland, Settlers, River Packrafting, Lake Packrafting, Fjord Packrafting, Partly Overrun
|}

[[File:profile GPT22.PNG|frame|center|Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route (2019)]]

[[File:profile GPT22-p.PNG|frame|center|Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route (2019)]]

<gallery>
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109520254.jpg|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109520443.jpg|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_115282465.jpg|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_115282466.jpg|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109447503.jpg|thumb|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_101648648.jpg|thumb|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_104321335.jpg|thumb|
File:Bahia ralun.jpg|thumb|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109447491.jpg|thumb|
File:GPT_16_Cochamó_109447496.jpg|thumb|
</gallery>

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT22 (Cochamo)

2025-01-30T01:50:24Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2025/26 */

GPT22 (Cochamo)

2025-01-30T01:48:40Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2025/26 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
* General advice : The Regular Route is best hiked between December and April. The primary obstacles are high river levels early in the season and after rain. During the peak period of January and February it may be difficult to obtain a camping reservation at La Junta which could prevent a southbound traverse (but people were usually let through when they say they go all the way to El Arco).

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

*'''2025-JAN-20 to 2025-JAN-27 / 7 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. 01 / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel)'''

Stage 22 is one of the longest sections of the GPT, but from our perspective (also thanks to our route choice), it wasn’t particularly difficult. Due to health issues and plenty of time (we had a scheduled meeting in Bariloche on a specific date), we took the stage quite leisurely.

The first part to La Junta is very busy, with a large number of day hikers. That wasn’t really our thing, so we rushed ahead into the wilderness, which starts right after the camps in La Junta.

In the Rio Puelo valley, due to health issues, we chose Variant 01 and rejoined the RR at Puerto Urrutia at the start of 22S.

The most surprising and interesting stop on the trail for us was meeting señira Alexandra at Lago Verde, where we spent an entire morning on the lake on boats and doing deep water solo climbing. (More details in the BIVOUACING section.)

ENTRY INTO VALLE COCHAMÓ

The first major challenge is entering Cochamó Valley, but it’s not as complicated as it might seem.

The entry checkpoint is at Road End {22N} [109.8/58], and access to the valley is free. However, due to high visitor numbers, there are relatively strict regulations. To be allowed entry, you need to follow these rules:

If you want to camp near La Junta, you must have a reservation through www.reservasvallecochamo.org and bring confirmation of your reservation to the checkpoint. Entry is permitted between 7:00 AM and 3:00 PM.

If you want to camp at Refugio El Arco, no reservation is needed, but entry is only allowed between 7:00 AM and 9:00 AM.

The time restrictions aren’t enforced too strictly, but you shouldn’t arrive much later. According to locals, it’s also theoretically possible to enter very early in the morning before any staff arrive, avoiding the need to follow these rules.

However, we personally recommend adhering to the official regulations. There are many visitors (often with little or no experience), and if the beauty of this valley is to be preserved, some regulation and monitoring are necessary. This is also why camping outside of the designated campsites in the valley is prohibited.

For GPT hikers, the best option is to enter the valley in the morning, explain your plans, and then hike to El Arco, where there is plenty of space for tents and camping is free. (Although volunteers manage the site and, like at the entry point, record visitor details.) If you follow this approach, there’s no reason you wouldn’t be allowed in, and you will still comply with all the rules.

CHALLENGES

Ford at Rio Traidor {22N} [95.9/340] was very easy. All other fords on this section were also crossable with dry feet, except for the final fords over Rio Azul at the very end.

Bridge {22N} [80.9/645] doesn’t exist, but the river can be crossed on fallen logs.

Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) was washed away. There is a cable car alternative, or you can cross using fallen logs.

At Settler {22S} [7.2/215], a man yelled at us from a house, saying we shouldn’t walk there. He seemed angry, and we didn’t feel like arguing. Instead, we walked a short stretch along the road and then rejoined the trail by climbing over a valley (near coordinates -41.98297, -71.88292). This involved a short bush-bash and crossing a creek on fallen logs.

The trail around Las Rocas is quite overgrown in one section, with many fallen logs. This rough stretch is between km 17.8 {22S} (-42.05306, -71.83367) and km 19.9 {22S} (-42.06622, -71.81971). We believe it may be possible to bypass this section using other trails, as well-maintained paths connect before and after it, but we didn’t try it ourselves and just bush-bashed through.

Border control was quick and completely problem-free on both sides.

BIVOUACING

The first night, we camped at La Frontera Camp at the entrance to Cochamó Valley. It’s a small and very nice eco-camp, where making a reservation is a good idea. Staying here was a special experience for us, as it is run by Pavel, a fellow Czech.

At El Arco, there’s a shelter, though it doesn’t have much sleeping space. However, right next to it is a large grassy area with plenty of room for tents.

At -41.56978, -71.93585 (km ~64.3 {22N}), there’s a beautiful flat campsite with a refugio.

At Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado), there’s a fire pit with benches and a small tent spot.

One night, we camped in the backyard of Valle Puelo Brewery. They let us stay for free, but the roosters woke us up early.

At -41.96567, -71.90571 (Lago Verde), there is a settlement run by a very kind woman named Alexandra and her brother. They offer cabins for rent, but they also allowed us to camp in our tents for 8,000 CLP per person. The price included free kayak rental for a paddle on the lake. We highly recommend staying here. It is also the only reasonable access point to the lake. Elsewhere, the shoreline is covered with dense vegetation or cliffs.

WATER

There is plenty of water available. The trail runs along rivers and crosses many smaller streams.

RESUPPLY

Cochamó has several minimarkets, a hardware store (where you can buy gas cartridge), a pharmacy, post office, and plenty of restaurants and food stalls.

At the Road End {22N} [109.8/58] (Valle Cochamó entry checkpoint), there is a food truck open in summer with fast food, and a small store nearby selling snacks and some basic groceries.

We bypassed Camp La Junta via Toboganes, so we have no info on current shopping options there.

At Lake, Settler, Camp $ {22N} [70.9/602], we bought very good and reasonably priced fresh cheese and beer. They likely have some other basic supplies as well.

Shop {22N} [43.0/49] is operational. It’s small but sufficient for basic resupply.

Settlement, Shop, Bus {22N} [40.7/36] (El Manso) is a complex of brewery with the best beer we've had in Chile so far. The store is slightly better stocked than the previous one and sells gas cartridges.

Llanada Grande has a fairly large and well-stocked supermarket.

At the start of 22S, there’s a restaurant with its own brewery (Hostal Puelo Libre).

TRANSPORT

A bus from Lago Puelo to El Bolsón runs every hour (around the full hour) and costs 1,800 ARS per person.

'''2025-01-25 to 2025-01-27 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO (partly) / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''

* Primer Coral has a very nice campspot. Chance there will be kayakers around doing the upper section of Rio Puelo with class 5 rapids you can watch them paddle it, it's insane.

* I heard there is a cabin you can stay up on Río Ventisquero would be a nice option and you can leave part of your gear/food at the camping. And do an overnight trip. Rio Ventusquero supposed to be very nice.

* I was lucky to go with another group of Kayakers into the Rio Puelo and into the rapids at the Canyon. I had no whitewater experience but the camping owner convinced me it was doable and safe even if I fall. It was nice to paddle the Canyon and the waves felt huge. I had a decked packraft that still filled with water, which was nice and made it more stable.

* So if you are here and get the chance on going with a group of Kayakers into the Canyon and rapids , it will be a nice experience

* First I would continue after the rapids and the pickup would take my backpack. But I decided to go back with the pickup to Primer Coral and continue next day towards Argentinia.

* First part of the trail from primer coral to Lago de Las Rocas is closed the settler there told me. You can join the trail from road V723. But I went from Lago Azul.

- The trail (blue line) towards Lago Azul already started earlier. * From the road at you left side there is already a sign with trail towards Lago Azul.

* Lago de Las Rocas went fast with wind in the back.

* I had to stay at the border crossing because they only had electricity at 7 p.m. to register me. Next morning from 8.00 I could pick up my passport. I did not fill in am online form beforehand and that was no problem.

* I went to the Argentinian border crossing that is indicated at the map. But because I was with a boat they did not let me. I had to get my passport stamped at the maritime office at the end of the lake at the beach of lago Puelo. So if you decide to skip lago Puelo/El Bolson than you better not show that you are by boat and pretend you are walking.

==Season 2024/25==
* '''2025-01-24 to 2025-01-26/ 2days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ Option 02, RP, Option 09, Option 03/ Natalie & Tomáš'''

Coming from Cochamo, where we had to organize getting a new neck gasket, we once again set off towards Lago Azul. The bus for the Lago Tagua Tagua arrived in Cochamo at 10:20am and left at 10:30am (around here, -41.49304, -72.30553). It came five minutes after the bus that goes from Puerto Montt to the trailhead. We left Rio Puelo at 12:00 after ten minute break and when we got to the ferry (didn't look @ time), before we could get out of the bus and pay the driver, the ferry that was docked left and we had to wait about half an hour for the next one. Lots of people, so Entel did not work. On the other side, the two buses were waiting. The bus did its regular stop at Llande Grande (~10min - they have a very good non industrial salami there) and then we got off where the road to Lago Azul goes. We had to remind the driver to stop for us around 15:30. We managed to get a hitch quickly, but it was short lived. There is a man watching a gate (7mil for the car owner, nothing for us) and the car was only allowed to go ~1km further to a parking here -41.90928, -71.88832 (maybe because it wasn't 4-wheel drive, an/ or they only allow certain [local?] people to go all the way to the beach, not sure). The road to lake has very recently been "upgraded" and is quite ugly. 02B and 02C are probably roads too, based on satellite and little survey where 02B joins 02A. At the beach there were a stand selling empanadas, a toilet, about 20 people and 4 cars parked. We started paddling around 18:00. First going west for ~600m to check out an alternative trail Tomáš was interested in that is on OSM leading to here: -41.92170, -71.87635. The trail exists, but might be somewhat unused, as there seems to be a new road for cars built above it too. Anyway, it looks like a more attractive and shorter approach to Azul, somebody needs to investigate it (we only noticed the trail half way on 02A). The start of the lake outlet (20 m) is magical with its blue-green water, a nice detour. The waves got stronger near the middle of the lake but then eased quickly. Near the end of the lake we had almost calm water. We camped at a spot we noted last year when hiking: -41.98306, -71.84801. It has a small flowing creek but is near a cottage. Both years of being here we have not seen anyone in it, you can camp in the trees and be mostly hidden. People vacation in tents 200m along the lake shore. Lago Azul is very pretty.

The next day was straightforward. Lago Los Rocas was "reflection-like" calm, despite starting around 11:00. We were worried about the boat and the Chilean Carabineros (read Jan's description in the manual) so we put the boat and equipment into the duffel bag and placed it all outside the Carabineros building, entering without our luggage. Everything went well because the men were nice (same ones from last year). However, we were almost busted when they asked us specifically if we were going to Argentina on foot or by boat. At first we said boat, but then they asked who was taking us, and when we struggled to come up with an explanation, they seemed to take our silence as a language misunderstanding and asked us again, so to make things easier, we said we were walking. We then slipped down using Variant U. If you are uncomfortable about this, it might be worth just putting your boat in your bag and walking the 3km to the next beach along RH. Variant S does not exist. Lago Inferior was once again sadly not windy, we started around 16:00. We were hoping to have a bit more horsepower from the waves and wind. They got stronger near the end but only at the very end, and it wasn't that strong. Tomáš and I had a small misunderstanding about our end goal at the lake. Tomáš wanted to walk up the river to scout the rapids and possibly run them back I, being completely unaware of the obvious, agreed. I thought we most likely wouldn't run them and just walk on the other OSM trail. What I didn't know was that the river flowed against us, despite looking at satellite images and saying, "why does it look like the rapids are going in the wrong direction?". Like I said, unaware of the obvious. When I realized the river went against us I instantly hated the idea, but we were already past the normal take out point, so in the end we went for it. The first longish set of rapids (class II, around here: -42.10240, -71.73502) is north (river right), so you cannot just connect to the OSM trail next to the river. We crossed to southern shore of the river. If you want to follow us, aim for it directly. Then it was a slow 400m walk and 100m paddle up to here -42.10413, -71.73233, before we could safely ferry to northern shore (to which we kept from then on). It was slow because of the algae/didymo being very slippery and rocks in the river bed having gaps in between them. You will appreciate how easy entrapment could be if you were in deeper faster water. A pole in one hand will greatly improve your stability and also a leash for the boat helps a lot (in your hand, not clipped on!), so you can walk the boat as a dog. We paddled up to the second short rocky (class II+?) rapid (-42.10487, -71.72934), which was more involved as we had to lift the boat over some rocks and it was a bit sketchy trusting our dollar store locking carabiners on our leash. The last (class III) rapid (-42.10487, -71.72934) was much easier to walk up, once again on our left/north/river-right. We filled up on water after the last rapid and paddled towards the lake. Surprisingly there was not much wind and the waves only started to be not small just before the Argentinian border patrol, so it was a bit slower than expected. Were it not for the border and a bit sooner, we could have gone to lake end. All in all this option was probably a little slower than just packing your boat and walking straight to the border control and about as fast as deflating your boat, walking the 2km portage and reinflating your boat. It might be worthwhile the effort if you have a boat with cargo or just really don't feel like walking. If you are careful, it is not dangerous (slips permitting). When water levels are high, it might be a different story. It took us 75 minutes. Going down the river in case you go NOBO should be much easier: capsizing in the first (going from Lago Puelo) rapid did not look safe due to undercuts, so better walk it down on the right, but the rest can probably be run (after scouting!) or easily walked down.

The camping at the border was once again packed and this time all toilets locked or non-functional, pretty gross considering the amount of people. There is a stream on the west side. The evening was quiet but fierce wind picked up around 3am, the wind was better in the morning but still not great. The check-in with Argentina (open from 8 till 20) was very easy and we got our passports stamped. I had a bit of "boat fever" and wanted to walk out, plus I wanted to be conservative with the waves at this lake. Tomáš felt it would be totally manageable so he sailed on down to Lago pueblo and I hiked out to La Pasarela because I hadn't gone there last year and I was curious. It was an okay hike with a little bit of water along the way. It turned into a MR for a little bit but then went back into a non-native Douglas Fir forest and through a few settlers pastures. It was up and down basically the whole way and very warm. La Pasarela is extremely popular. There is a restaurant and a smoothie joint and many other food stands. Sadly I didn't get a hitch. There is a bus stop when you hit the main road around here; -42.05087, -71.59679. I wasn't sure if it was the main road to El Bolson so I just walked into town and caught the bus out front the hospital here; -42.05924, -71.59776 @ 14:15. It was 1.700mil and paid only in cash. The earlier bus stop would have been fine, the other main road goes to Esquel. Plum season is almost here, red ones are tart but edible, yellow ones need at least 2-4more weeks.

Tomáš: waves were sizable (75 cm maximum difference top to bottom?), from the camp I had to ferry to get out of the cove, but then I mostly paddled only to keep the boat in the right position and let the wind push me to the lake end. A huge parking lot by the beach, hitching does not work but the bus does.

* '''2025-01-15 to 2025-01-22 / 7 days / Packrafting/ NOBO (flip flop)/ Option 8 (extended), RP / Natalie & Tomáš'''

For hikers: the RR west of Rio Puelo is actually attractive and the part we walked was no bushbashing, do not all shun it :-).

Summary

Despite never wanting to do the whole "yo-yo" (Natalie speaking) we did the yo-yo. Starting in Ventisquero and going until the bridge before the Rio Puelo town (didn't do the fjord). We then hitchhiked to Cochamo to deal with a ripped neck seal and planned to return to Laguna Azul to cross into El Bolsón. Last year we were inspired by Tobi and Fangwen's (T&F) trip into the Ventisquero valley and tried but didn't finish due to time and weather. On the flip side, that meant we were able to return this year with a packraft, which made the return trip much more interesting. It is a stunning valley and a beautiful river to be in a packraft (a must for packrafters, Tomáš thinks). There were virtually no tabanos which was a biggie after the mid-January infestation of 20 and 21! Tomáš did the upper Ventisquero river after the view-hike in Rincon Bonito and I chose to go higher on the mountain of the view-hike, earning myself a very incredible 360-view of the glaciated mountains around (both not in GPT yet). The Ventisquero river was easy, class II at most, we hit our knees on occasion. The Upper Puelo before the hike was very easy with a faster flow, just a bit of wood (nothing that couldn't be avoided), probably class l. We skipped the first rapids of the Gorge (6.2), they are surprisingly powerful and should not be paddled by anyone unskilled or without a team. The hike was actually nice, not that overgrown and pretty easy to follow. Tomáš went back into the river a little earlier and skipped the last 6km of hiking, while I met him after the hiking section, he had to walk one more rapid and ride two. The rest of the Puelo until the lake was once again easy. Upon approaching Lago Tagua the headwind was strong and paddling was slow. We planned to paddle to the parque Tagua (Option 11) but the waves and wind were very strong so we camped and crossed the lake the next morning, skipping the hike. Lake was easy and fast in the morning but the lower Puelo was slow for the first 5km before the rapids. We skipped the first rapid there and went down river right, putting in a bit earlier than Jan suggests, crossing a few small rapids and hitting our knees once. The rest of the lower Puelo was a bit slow but overall the whole thing was very beautiful.

Day zero: the bus

We again took the bus at 8:38 near Hostel Apel in Puerto Varas to Cochamo, we were told the bus that goes to the ferry (Laguna Tagua Tagua) was 10min behind the Cochamo-only bus. The ferry bus supposedly leaves here: 41.3160641S, 72.9853782W at 8:15 and then probably goes around town, taking a long time. The plan was to get off the first bus, look for Tomáš's inReach and then catch the second bus. Unfortunately, while we were looking for the imReach, the Laguna bus passed and we were unable to stop it, it was the only bus of the day. On the bright side, with more time to spare, Tomáš managed to wake up the land owner of Camp {21} [79.3/7], and it turned out they had found the inReach the day before and gave it back to us, yay! Soon after all of this (~10:15) we were able to catch another bus to Cochamo, so there must be a few that go in a day (later we learnt they go at 8,9,10,11,12 and 16:00 from Puerto Montt). In Cochamo, we waited until a bit after 12:00 for a bus to Rio Puelo, which made a stop at the trailhead for hiking the RR. We reached Rio Puelo at about 13:45, and that is where the original bus going to and from Laguna Tagua made its appearance on its way back to Puerto Varas/Montt. Since both of us were underslept due to Tomáš having spent the night vomitting (and having had little luck with hitchhiking on that road last year), we found a very nice two-room cabaña for 50.000 here: -41.66243, -72.29821, WhatsApp +56 9 4243 2328. (Entel internet in town functional.)

Day one: the bus and the walk, 4 km

The bus from Rio Puelo is said to be at 11:30 but arrived around 12:15. If one is stopping in Puelo for re-supply, there is a small vegan bakery with good sourdough loafs (-41.6599144, -72.2974946; not open Mondays). Also Supermercado El Maiten sold gas canister's for 7mil. By one o'clock and 1.5mil per person shorter, we were at the ferry. There you get out of the bus and catch a new one waiting at the other side (there are two on the other side, be sure to take the correct one). It takes over half an hour and costs 1.3mil (slow but functioning 3G Entel most of the lake ferry, but not at the end, telecom tower at the northern terminal). The ferries are three and at least two of them go 7 times a day each way (December- March), so you are likely to wait less than an hour. The buses on each side of the ferry are coordinated but when the bus misses a ferry narrowwly, it can add to delay, be prepared to wait some time if you are waiting to go SOBO (for example at the end of GPT22 RH). The bus to primer coral costs 1.5mil. It still stops for some time (15 min? - but the driver was making a big purchase) at Llanada Grande, where the shop is still good and the Entel internet mostly not functioning (receiving e-mails and text messages at most). We got to Primer Corral at 16:00.

Our plan was to stash extra food near Ford 37.5 (not fordable, maybe in February or better March). It seems it is regularly used for camping. We read T&F got their food stolen so we made sure to hide/bury our duffel bag of food very well. Unfortunately, after I hid it and carried on to the first ford, Tomáš met a pig. The pig tried to invade his backpack despite Tomáš only standing a meter away. He realized quickly our food stash had no hope against this invader. Since he did not know whereIt hid it, he started to pursue me, which only came to fruition at the river "Correntos", which has a fitting name. Therefore our first day was extremely short. Tomáš took both our backpacks across the ford (had to cross up river near the top of the islands where it divides into three: -42.01786, -71.93876 ) and made camp (lots of spots near the OSM path). The river was above his knees (173cm), but the length of the crossing, doing it three times and coldness made it somewhat challenging. I went back to make the duffel pig-proof, taking the OSM route that follows the river in my way (-42.00228, -71.93336). It was a lot nicer than the road, recommended.

Day two: Ford camp to outside Ricon Bonito, 16 km

Since we were both still struggling to get over our stomach bugs, we had a late morning and a very easy day. The simple 16km walk to Ricon Bonito felt a lot harder than it should have. As T&F described this section before, it is partially a MR, with a short detour, turning into a trail midway. From our river camp, the GPT track files follow an old trail used probably mostly by cows now, until a settler: -42.02520, -71.94877. At the settler, who was not at home, we had to zig zag through gates and over one fence until reaching the MR: -42.02707, -71.94872 (it makes a detour probably to cross Rio Correntoso over a bridge). The way to Rincon Bonito is signed with little red arrows. Our first water was located here: -42.01995, -71.98929, shortly after the MR ends and trail begins. The last few kilometres of the MR were recently "upgraded", so it is quite ugly, and they may be expand it more, but who knows. On the trail, there were two more simple fords. The first ford was a calm creek: -42.01840, -72.04246. There looked to be good camping just before it, would have been a nice place to aim for the first night. The second ford [15.8/164] has a cable car, where the GPT files indicate a bridge. Tomáš went to verify this after we forded and saw other tents camping there as well. Not sure if it was organized or not, probably yes. A little further ahead there is a settler with their own cell tower. Tomáš (who is from Europe) got full bars but my Canadian phone got nothing. There is still water just before the turn off to the viewpoint trail as T&F have noted. We went into Ricon Bonito to see what they would charge us for camping. We were surprised to meet a group of American packrafters who had flewn in that day to paddle down to the fjord. There were 5 of them sharing the 200mil cabin, so not terribly expensive, but the plane from Puerto Montt was 600mil. Kind of nice to know we had a group of river guides near. In the end we were not allowed to camp at this glamping site, it is for reservations only. The men that worked there recommend us to camp at the Bernardita Alegría's (referred to as "abuela" in earlier seasons) place 2km up the valley but they said it was 25mil a night per person, which sounded far too expensive for camping (maybe it included half board?) so we found a place in the forest not far from Ricon Bonito and once again had an early night. It seems that while the valley is privately owned (by several landowners? - settlers still live up there), there are no right of ways issues at all.

Day three: Stealth Ricon camp to Ventisquero river camp, 20-25 km

The trail to the view point is steep but easy (~930m in 4km). The men working at Ricon Bonito had cleared the brush the day before, so Tomáš finally almost didn't need his machete. There was a little bit of water on the way up ( -42.03631, -72.09700), but probably best to fill at the bottom. You do not have to go all the way up for a view, there is also a view point after 450m of elevation gain. At the top we decided to split and go on two different adventures. Tomáš wanted to explore the upper Ventisquero river and I wanted to explore the upper Ventisquero mountain (aka go to the highpoint above the view point like T&F considered). Luckily we both had successes and you can read Tomáš's description below. As for extending the trail to a highpoint at 1600m I HIGHLY recommend it if weather is nice. By using satellite imagery and a little intuition, the bushbashing was not bad at all. The bush is that dwarf alpine Lenga that is usually very stiff to walk through, but luckily it was not so dwarf. It was taller than me which made it possible to slither through the understory without much fight. There is roughly 500m of BB, the rest is CC. At the beginning I zig zagged between hidden open spots and then eventually made my way to a ridge-like feature that had many breaks from the bush, and some interesting views. You have to play with this ridge a bit because it is not continuous. Ridge around here -42.05122, -72.09511. Eventually you break free from the bush and enter a dry basin just below the highpoint. It is an easy walk from there and if there is snow you might come across a few small meltwater streams as I did. The views were amazing, it felt A LOT like home but obviously more special. If we did not have a plan to start paddling that day I would have explored the ridge. It easily goes to 1700m and then from there it looks you could connect to the main mountain, it will be a fun trip for one lucky person. As for meeting Tomáš, we planned to meet where the track files hit the river. However I was unable to get to that spot as there were blackberries and cliffs, so I ended up taking the main trail to the river in Ricon Bonito: no one said anything. But when you take this trail down you will hit the bottom and eventually walk along two small boardwalks, just after these boardwalks, the main trail goes left, but dont go left, a better way in is to the right after the boardwalks. It is a sneaky path but it is there and leads you to a nice small beach. Luckily I was ahead of Tomáš and warned him of this new point; -42.02492, -72.09604. We had a nice evening paddle of only a few kilometers, filled up on water at the cable car ford and then made camp in a sheltered bay. Unfortunately the day ended with a torn neck gasket: I ripped my neck gasket all the way to the bottom when taking off my drysuit. I was terribly sad and in disbelief. I had been trying hard to treat it well, not pulling it, covering my face with a balaclava, covering it with a balaclava from sun, treating it once a month with 303 and so on. Luckily Tomáš had one bar of internet ať the camp site so I managed to find a store in Pucón that could ship a spare neck gasket to Cochamo (do not do that, ship things to Puerto Varras instead).

Tomáš's trip up the Ventisquero valley:
This goes beyond what is in the GPT files - I was not sure why they end up only in the middle of the valley. when one can clearly see buildings and meadows higher up the valley on satellite.Turns out there is a trail to them indeed. There is one more settler, Fredy Alvarado living here with his family: -42.03933, -72.13376. He is signposted, maybe he would provide lodging and stuff too. Up to him, there is an OSM trail. You can divert from it to a cable car over a river here -42.03852, -72.12473 (signposted by Ricon Bonito). From Fredy, the trail continues, it seems to be used by animals and is still fairly clear. When you enter one clearing, trail can be a bit difficult to find, join it here: -42.04754, -72.16677. Then here -42.04773, -72.17127, the trail fell into the river with trees (obstructing it, this part needs to be walked in packraft through a shallow side channel). It is just 50m and can be easily walked around. The meadows are abandoned puestoes that still seem to be grazed. I put in here: -42.04244, -72.18400. One could probably walk further up in the braided river bed if willing to ford, the valley is really pretty with lots of waterfalls and glacier views and the river would be packraftable for a few kilometres more. River itself is stunning (more scenic and wild than Rio Puelo I think) and easily navigable until Bernardita's place here -42.03202, -72.11899, where II or II+ rapids start (sorry, I am only apporixmate in rating). With a bit of scouting and skill (I am not very skilled though), the rapids are navigable though, as I ran them. The second and third are the biggest, and those are the ones I scouted, the following ones are a bit smaller but could have been scouted too. One can also portage and supposedly there is a path maintained by Ricon Bonito along the river bank (see OSM) so bailing out should be easy. Where there is the OSM path to the side valley, there were some cables so I assume a cable car, but did not see it and cables could be for water too, I did not get a good look. Rapids end around our meeting point with Natalie. I definitely recommend this extension especially for packrafters.

Day four: Ventisquero camp to Puelo Gorge exit, 26 km

We spent the morning organizing the online neck gasket purchase with one bar of internet and then set off quite late. The Ventisquero river is indeed gorgeous and although it is rated II+, the rapids are small and easily portaged if need be (Tomáš thinks II+ is for the rapid section he did alone - or possibly for spring months with more water). We scouted a few rapids but overall there were no surprises, and obstacles were easily passed. There was very little wood, and the wood that was there was big and obvious with lots of room to go around. I saw only one rapid with possibly dangerous strainers (around here -42.02042, -72.06173 if we postidentified it well). There are two possibly II rapids here: -42.01429, -71.99931 and here: -42.01853, -71.99523. The first one is straightforward, the second one has a good line on the left of the main current. We picked the left side of the river there, hitting our knees a bit - better walk it if you do not take the main current. I personally agree with Jan's description that the river is shallow, we hit our knees a few times (canoe seat). (Tomáš thinks it is "Moderate with occasional ground contact" at most - and this more in the upper part than the part we did with Natalie, that is as long as you pick the correct main line to run rapids, anyway it has a lot more water than Rio Huenuhuenu). There was one more water source for drinking further down the river on river right (-42.01882, -71.98949) and then Rio Correntoso if you trust that (we did going up without issues). I wish I filled up more because it was the last water until Bridge {22N} [7.4/137]. We got to our food stash near Ford 37.5 in ~3hrs. After lunch we headed towards the gorge entrance/hiking section (Rapids Start 6.2). This part of Rio Puelo seemed easier but flowing faster and with more water, no more shallows. There was more wood than the Ventisquero but once again easily avoided. However, there were a couple of underwater logs we almost hit. Tomáš thinks the river is at most I+, when Jan mentions "up to class III" in the manual, that either applies to November or is wrong in his opinion, you can avoid all of the small rapids if you want and keep it strictly at class I. We were totally surprised when we hit the gorge because we were fighting a headwind and thought we were moving slow. Turns out we were still moving fast (~13km in 1.5hrs) and therefore missed the first exit by a hundred metres (the gorge is more than half a kilometre after the exit). We had to walk back up the river and ferry across it to get to the start of the hiking section. It was 17:30 so we just camped there and boiled river water. There is a telecom tower above Puerto Urrutia but we did not test it. Lots of didymo algae.

Day five: Gorge to end of hiking section, 12 km

The bypass trail turned out to be a nice if slow (up and down) trail. It is only very little overgrown with some beautiful views of the gorge and powerful rapids within. There was drinking water throughout. We started late and stopped somewhat early. The first ~2km to Settler 7.7 (Christian) was very easy and clear but Bridge 7.4 is not there anymore, there is a new log bridge just up the creek bed (go left after the gate). Two men on very stunning horses were there but we didn't talk for long. The overgrown bit technically starts after this settler but it was ~80% easy to see and follow. The meadow sections are the only places I would often loose it and it was only badly overgrown at the first beach after Settler's 7.7 gate (locked). There, the GPX wants you to walk on the river shore, which is probably a lot easier than the overgrown trail, as long as you find the entrance back to the trail again: -41.87870, -71.96787. Later, it would have been very overgrown after the last hill climb before Settler 15.3 but it had been recently cleared. I was very lucky as it seemed to have been cleared that morning or day before. There were fresh cuts, prints and horse poo. I often found the GPX was off by ~20m, which can be annoying in the forest at times. At the third beach (~6km before end), Tomáš and I split. He wanted to paddle the last bit as he believed it could be a good alternative river in, the rapids looked easily portaged. I was less inclined, so I walked and he took most of the weight and we met back at the normal put in. See Tomáš's notes below. Camping at the end of the hike, beach under Settler "Castanos", is very nice. There are lots of camping spots on the beach or grass meadow above and some tables as well. Near his boat, there is a tarp set up, if you want shelter from the rain. You can fill up on water at the top near Castanos or ferry across the river to a creek.

Tomáš: Rio Puelo in the section that is portaged looks like at least solid class III (that was also the assessment of the Americans we met earlier - they said the start of the gorge is 500m of big waves without holes, surveying from an airplane on their way to Rincon Bonito) and technically probably can be run by people who know what they are doing (but do your own research), as the Americans presumably did (but they were river guides). Possibly, you could even put in (somewhat precariously from a rock) at the end of the first beach Natalie mentions above, walking the rapids (the gorge is mostly not closed from then on where there are rapids) if you have got the skills (they are still mostly class III). From what we saw, I am unsure only whether rapid at -41.86224, -71.97834 can be walked, as we could not see the rapid properly. Also possible there are more rapids than we saw. Make your own assessment first.

Anyway, I put here: -41.85388, -71.98151. This is also a very pretty and comfortable campspot with access to water. There were three more rapids. First one well visible on satellite at -41.85019, -71.97913. It is II or II+, but short and straightforward to run through the center. Could be walked on the left, especially if you have a rope. Then there is a rapid at -41.83779, -71.97925. The main current is probably still III, I did not like it, so I walked it on the right, which was easy (and short, like 10-15 m). The last rapid is here: -41.86224, -71.97834, I would say it is II (or possibly II+) and I ran it. Natalie was faster as I ate, took forever to set up the boat and scouted all the rapids, which I would recommend you do too. Even with the scouting, it took me about an hour to do this section. The last two rapids were not visible on satellite, so Jan's waypoint ending the rapids is correct. According to my GPS, Puelo drops from 80 m to 45 m over this section, which is about 15m more than the manual says. The gorge is beautiful (but you will see it even if you put where recommened by Jan, it is not over there yet). Puelo here has a lot of that nasty didymo algea thing, it is ugly and do wash your boats after leaving.

Day six: End of hike to Laguna Tagua Tagua, 28 km

Rio Puelo was again pretty calm (and pretty) but then somewhat slow nearing the lake. Fresh (last that we saw) water not coming from humans here: -41.80219, -71.99786. We found a nice lunch spot here with picnic tables and nice views: -41.70008, -72.09018. No water but I recommend camping here if you know the lake is going to be too windy to cross and you don't want to take the ferry. However it looks like it sees day trip visitors from time to time. Our plan after lunch was to paddle to the start of the Parque Tagua Tagua hike. However, close to the ferry port the base valve in our middle seat inflation tube ripped (obviously a weak point in our boat as the same spot ripped on the main compartment while on the Rio Ñuble). Luckily it was just the seat but as soon as we could arrive at the port a ferry arrived so we had to wait to go to shore. I stupidly put Aquaseal FD on it rather than taping it and doing the permanent fix later, so we had to be very careful for the rest of the day. The Aquaseal was a battle. I had been keeping the valve clean but the first few centimeters of aquaseal in the tube had turned to concrete and we had to make a new hole to get some out, I wish I had two tubes (FD + UV). In the end it didn't matter too much because the waves and wind were so strong at the lake that we decided not to cross the lake to get to the hike. For camping we went into the trees and found a wind sheltered patch of grass: -41.70132, -72.11486. We boiled water from the lake, probably not great considering the ferry port was right there. It is probbaly 4-5 hours of padddling from end of gorge to the lake.

Day seven: Laguna Tagua Tagua to Bridge 79.3, 23 km

We got started fairly early and the lake was easy to cross in about 100 minutes, even with some light tailwind. We stopped for internet at the north side. The first 5km of the Puelo before Rapids 68.9 were more like an extension of the lake, very slow (but pretty). It was easy to stay right at the small gorge before Rapids 68.9. We stopped to scout them and although they were not as strong as the rapids in the first gorge, they had many features we did not like (a giant wave and a possible hole and possible undercuts). If there was more water it would have been possible to stay to the far right of them, but at this time it looked impossible to do so without hitting rocks on our knees (it is possible to walk the boat through here too). So we walked the boat to the far right as GPX indicates, there is not enough water to float the whole way. At the end of the walk (-41.61433, -72.21046), there is a a rapid you enter downstream if you want to re-enter the river. After that we stayed right the whole way, passing some more minor rapids directly after. We hit our knees badly on the last shallow rapid because at the end we went to the left of a center rock, we should have gone right (that was here: -41.60956, -72.21677). We found a nice water supply here: -41.61519, -72.24686. The rest of the Puelo that day was easy and it got a bit slow, we had to paddle against the waves for the last few kms before Bridge 79.3 (it pays to follow the current, not chasing the shortest route). There was a fun small feature (possibly a hole) here: -41.63345, -72.25323 that we rode to the side channel of the river. At the bridge we got out and caught a hitch easily to Cochamo, and prepared ourselves to deal with the broken gear and online orders (the Post office in Cochamo is delivered to only on Mondays, so order your stuff to Puerto Varras instead - we had to go to retrieve the stuff in transit in Puerto Montt). In Cochamo there are many hospedajes, the going rate seems to be 17mil per person. We chose Hostal Arcoíris (-41.49402, -72.30973), we got a small private room for 34mil. There is a large grass area in the back with outside showers to make cleaning the packraft easy, only downfall was it is very popular for Chilean campers. Good fruit shop here: -41.49456, -72.29692.

* ''' 2025-JAN-18 > 22 / 4,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / 22N > 22-01 > 22S / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT20+GPT21+GPT22
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 3/5
| Difficulté : 2/5
| Danger : aucun

Après quelques achats à Cochamo, je continue ma journée pleine de surprises. Sans que je fasse d'auto-stop, une dame s'arrête et je fais 4km avec elle sur la gravel road qui mène au barrage de la CONAF. Il est alors 15h30 et il n'est plus possible de passer depuis 15h, dernière montée possible seulement avec une preuve de réservation au camping La Junta. Pour passer sans réservation il faut se présenter entre 7h et 9h. Je dors au camping 200m avant le barrage. Le dimanche matin, je me fais dépasser par des dizaines de coureurs. Après La Junta, il n'y a plus personne et le sentier est plus difficile et boueux. Jusqu'au km 45, ce sont des montagnes russe. On a toujours l'impression de monter. Je prend la 22-01 puisque le RR est fait pour le packraft, et surtout parce qu'après l'échec du GPT20 pour demander un bateau, je préfère éviter de recommencer, 3 fois qui plus est.
J'ai fait de l'auto-stop 20km sur les 30. J'ai fait quelques courses à Llanada Grande, le supermarché est vraiment bien. Je n'ai pas vu de bateau au km 0 du 22S, preuve que j'ai fais le bon choix. Ensuite sur le RR ça alterne entre route de terre carrossable et chemin ou il faut pousser quelques branches, et enjamber des arbres en travers de la route. Mais le chemin est relativement bon. Attention aux ronces qui sont plutôt répandues ici. Aucun taon. Les 4km avant de croiser la 22-X sont en très mauvais état. Attention à bien passer par les postes frontière Chilien et Argentin, le premier pour sortir administrativement du Chili et le second pour entrer administrativement en Argentine.
JAN-23: Repos Lago Puelo

* '''23rd of december / 1 day/ hiking/ sobo/ var 12 + boat (rio puelo) + rr (lago inferior) + var 3 / allie'''

I started in segundo corral where I stayed in a hospedaje. The dueña helped me with the logistics of the boat transfer +56 9 2050 2809. The border control went smooth on both sides. The trail is well maintained and stunning views. When i got to the village lago puelo i tried to cross the rio azul but the current was too strong and it was very deep. I couldnt pass (im 165cm). I went back to the argentinian border control to ask for a boat. They called for one through the radio but no responses. so i had to take the detour to get to la paserela (var 3) which was an extra 13 km more or less to get to lago puelo alto. I passed some people that managed to pass the rio azul 5 km away from the pasarela. But they were quite tall.

* '''(2024/Dez/19-2024/Dec/23) 5 Days/ Packrafting/ NOBO/ Route K/ Lukas, Basil, Maxi and Tabea)'''

Entry point at Lago Pueblo and took the bridge over Rio Azul, which looked not easy fordable. The path to the border was easy to find and well kept.
The packrafting route starting at primer corral is easy and nice. The hiking path starting at 15.2 is partly in overgrown and takes a long time. The second rafting section starting at 28 km is also beautiful and easy however the current is quite slow getting closer to the lago tagotago. The lake should be crossed before noon, strong winds pick up at around 12.
Rafting after Lago TagoTago is easy, the rapids need to be skipped. pay attention of water vortex.

* '''(2024/Dez/12-2024/Dec/17) 6 Days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Route N/ Lukas, Basil and Tabea'''

Entry point at Cochamo. Dont forget to register in advance for the park, they will send you away otherwise. In the park the path is well kept and easy to walk on, although a bit muddy. Up to the camping la junta many tourist are on the way.
From el Manso, after the loop, we took a bus to secundo corral. The bus leaves daily at 2pm on the main road.

* '''From 2024-12-07 to 2024-12-11 // 4 days //Hiking // NOBO // RR + Puerto Urrutia to La Junta // Mo'''

Transfer from Cochamo to Puerto Urrutia and the other side of Rio Puelo with Bus/Ferry/Bus/Bote was easy, then nice walking next to the river, in really short parts completely overgrown, otherwise easy walking until the river crossings where no settler was there but I was lucky to find others to get me over, from El Manso to La Junta you have a minimarket in El Manso and a little further (knocked on the door of the farm house) and a farmer sells eggs (I just asked for eggs) after Lake Viedma. In La Junta there is an expensive minimarket. Other settlers (like in Terrentosa) might also sell food.

* '''From 2024-12-04 to 2024-12-10 // 6.5 days //Hiking // NOBO // RR + Pasarela option, Option 2 (Lago de las Rocas east side) + Gravelroad between Llanada Grande and Rio Manso // MiaimZelt'''

In general: no dofficult river crossings, the biggest challenge was the mud between Rio Manso and La Junta. Navigation was mostly without difficulties.

Day 1: Easy trail to the argentinian border. Arrived at 5pm and needed to wait until next morning for the stamp. Camped at the beautiful and free camping next to the carabinieros.

Day 2: Got my stamp and continued. Lovely trail with nice vies until the chiliean carabinieros. Easy bordercrossing. Took the alternative at the east side around Laguna de las Rocas. At some point i saw a sign, indicating the trail is closed due to fallen trees. I continued, the trail got wider. Then i reached the farm of german settlers. A woman (Vivi) approached me and we talked. She told me, my GPX-Track is wrong, because it want's me to cross their private property. Last days people climbed over locked fences, what bothers them. Should walk outside of the fence. On the other side Vivi waited for me and asked me to walk the original trail with her daughter. Got invited to lunch, later her daughter walked with me on the original trail (indicated by a sign "Lago Azul 6km"), while she cleared it with a machete. I did record it with my Smartphone. Sent it to Jan, you also can find it in the facebook group.
After the ford of a river the trail in the dense forest was partly covered under fallen trees. Several times i needed to check the GPS. Camped at a tiny lake near Lago Azul.

Day 3: Didn't follow the GPS around Lago Azul, because it lead's through the property of a settler. Instead i stayed outside of the fenced area. Found signs indicating i'm on the right track, directly before i reached the shore of the lake. The path up to the gravel road was partly overgrown, but doable.

Walked on the gravel road, later i got a hitch to the supermarket in Llanada Grande. Very good shop for a full resupply. After resupply i didn't find a hitch, walked 3 hours until a very nice chilean took me the last kilometers. Stayed at Camp {22N} [45.2/44].

Day 4: Due to the steep up and downs + the mud i was much slower than expected. Met 2 very nice settlers on horseback. Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) has a cable car instead of a bridge. Settler warned me about it. Didn't know how to get inside, because it drives away when you don't hold the rope at the same time. Decided to ford the river instead, was knee-deep. 4 more easy fords along my way to the nice campside at Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado).

Day 5: Trail was in better conditions the next hours. At Torrentoso there is a open shelter with lots of space for tents around. Along Lago Vidal the trail got muddy again. Bridge {22N} [80.9/645] doesn't exist, but very easy to ford. The forst half of the ascent to Lago Grande was easy, but the second half was very muddy and challenging. Wanted to camp at Lago Grande but, Camp {22N} [83.8/1001] is fully covered under a huge downfall of several big trees. Trail along Lago Grande is in poor condition (fallen trees + mud). Camp {22N} [84.9/1012] is a beautiful campspot.

Day 6: Began with the poor trail. Directly after camp, there is a hole where the trail should be. Campspot near the tiny lake. Later one more huge downfall. Trail improves a little bit until El Arco, but due to mud i was very slow. 4 easy fords until the refuge. Rio Arco was knee-deep, easy ford. Met the first hikers directly after the crossing. Mud was getting even more, improved at the descent. Ford Rio Traidor was not difficult, again knee-deep. Ford Rio La Junta could be avoided, because above Toboganes there is a bridge. Didn't know. Could stay at Camp Trawen (13mil), was plenty of space for more tents. They have a small kiosk. Toboganes waterfall is worth to be visited.

Day 7: Easy trail in the beaufiful rainforest from La Junta to the reception. Hiked on the gravel road and luckily i got a hitch to Puerto Varas.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''From 2024-02-19 to 2024-02-24 // 6 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + Option 2, 1B, 1 + Variant I, J // Quentin Clavel'''

Lago Puelo - lago de las rocas (east) - Lago Azul - Lago Totoral - Llana Grande - El Manso - Lago Vidal Gormaz - La Junta - Toboganes - mirador Arcoiris - Anfiteatro - Cerro Trinidad - Cochamo

The section begin with the crossing of Rio Azul, wich was not difficult at this time of the year. Then easy track to the lovely Argentinia border, I slept on the camping there. 8 more kilometers to arrive to the carabineros office. Easy border, nice people.

Then due to the landslide on the RR (carabineros confirm me that the track is still not praticable there) I continued along Lago de Las Rocas, on the eastern side, following the option 2. Pretty easy to follow.

At some point there is a junction, with a sign indicate Lago Azul - 6Km on the right. I followed it, even if it get me out of the GPX file (and the nice and easy to follow track). Not sure it was a great idea, I ended up on a sort of small bush-bashing areas that I managed to pass threw and after few kilometers, finally found back the option track, clear and easy, and continue my way.

Then you arrive to a big farm, the one from Jonas, a German native arriving here when he was a child, grow up there and have now a family, living in nature, along the lake, cultivating fruits and vegetables, and selling woods. Very nice man, interesting discussions ! After his farm, you'll follow the valley but keep the left in the woods straight after his farm, if not you'll arrive in a big swampy area.

The track is less obvious and there's a lot of fallen trees. Few check on the GPS was necessary. Then you reach the Lago Azul. The GPX file is going inside the property of a settler. He's a nice guy but his dogs less, one bites me ! (Not hardly, but still!). Just be more careful than me going there, or go around the property.

One last hard push to reach a gravel road, that you will follow until El Manso (30km a bit boring), but easy to find camping and food, especially around Lago Totoral. Resupply at Llana Grande, big supermarket with everything you need.

At El Manso, there's a minimarket next to the cervecería wich is a place where you can camp. The track is quite easy to follow, and quite physical with all the ups and downs. I had rain for two days and this stretch was muddy, especially along the Lago Vidal Gormaz. Then it becomes VERY muddy until La Junta. I had the feelings I will never finish this stretch, and I felt few times in the mud.

I was definitely not presentable when I arrived in La Junta, and the contrast was huge with all people well dressed with clean sports clothes who smell good the fresh perfume of lavenderia ahaha.

I wanted to do Arco iris, but the track is closed because of a landslide. So I opt for the glaciar Paloma wich was surprisingly technical and steep.
But the surrounding worth it, the glaciar Is amazing, the fact that you can enter into it is mad ! I slept up there, there's a little circle with rocks to put your tent.

Then I reached Cochamo and enjoyed great food, confortable hostel and relaxing atmosphere

* '''2024-Feb-09 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Gerald'''

First: I wouldn't do it if there was a lot of rain. Did it after a week of rain in 2019 and it was a mud hell until El Arco. Now it seems at least until junta the trail improved (not sure). For those who don't own a trekking pole, organize a stick early... you won't have mich fun with the muddy situation otherwise.

The bus leaving Puerto Varas at 8:30 (Bus stop at -41.31617, -72.985396) charged 7k. Surprisingly they drove me to the trailhead, last time i had to walk from the bridge, guess it depends on the bus. If you want to get a seat you should probably take the bus in Puerto Montt, had to stay the whole ride. Seems like they will also stop along the way if you wave (check the cochamo insta for an overview of the schedule and route of the bus).
Arrived at the checkpoint at 11:45. After explaining my trip and that i will stay at El Arco they let me pass (without a reservation). They just ask you to register before you go.
Stopped at la junta to make a coffee and enjoy the view. They sell veggies they grow on site.
If i remember rights from Rio Trador on it gets really muddy. It rained 4 days ago and mud was not a big issue until that river.

Anyway, arrived quite late at 8pm at the shelter. There is a path to the right to a place to pitch couple of tents. After Rio Traidor (-41.407173, -72.092915) would also be a nice place to camp

In average only 2 tabano/day annoyed me, what a time we live in... Finally

Dona Luisa has a nice spot on the southern side of the lake Vidal gormaz.
To give you idea, here a short pricelist:
5k camping,
3k for a beer (brahma or Sol),
7k for a bottle of wine,
12k for dinner (meat, salad and bread),
1.5k for cheese

Camping at the settlement Steffen looked nice. Unfortunately i chose a spot next to a way too curious bull...

The camping at the brewery in El Manso is not worth a penny (they charge 5k). It's basically a dry piece of land full of goose shit. Engine on petrol runs untill 10pm. Only wifi is positive. I couldn't find a good spot to camp nearby. I would camp way before. Bus supposed to arrive between 14:30 and 15:00. Luckily a car took me to Puerto Urrutia where i continued. Hostel Puelo Libre looked nice next to the beautiful river. Hiked until the north west side of lago las rocas.

Ricardo (?) offered me a ride for free to the other end of the landslide. But I chose to cross the whole lake by boat. He charged 30k (I was alone). The radio is not anymore at the "port", but you can walk to his house (just continue the MR, first house at around [-42.019089, -71.861245] to your left, if you want to avoid the dogs take the small trail to your left once you see it).

Leaving Chile without the PDI document was not an issue (I requested the paper 5 days in advance and only got an auto response...). They did not even ask. Good views on the lake from now on. Spend an extra day at the camp next to the AR border control. All in all, nice hike!

Missed the bus to El bolson by 5mins. Seems like it's more towards x:30h. I think they run every hour. Got a ride with a car for 1k to the city. If someone is fancying good sourdough bread i can recommend "El Obrador"

The Post office is also doing Westernunion here (check Googlemaps reviews for more Infos)

* '''2024-Feb-03 to 2024-Feb-09 / Lilian'''

If you decide stay at Segundo Corral, and take the boat to Argentina.

NO NO NO

NO NO NO

DON'T DON'T DON'T stay at Mari Mari Peni Camping, (or another name) Amancays Camping.

I saved a girl hiker almost RAPED by the campground owner, and I'm pointed by a rifle gun force me to stop helping her at the night on 07/02. About the details, i type it and upload later.

It is already reported to Chile carabineros and Consulate in Chile.

* '''GPT22 2024-01-31 to 2024-02-05 / 5,5 days days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Cochamó options/ Tomáš & Natalie'''

After a month and a half, we finally did something standard! From Puerto Varras (the bus stop on Avenida Vicente Perez Rosales just after Antonio Varras street) we took a bus at 8:38 going from Puerto Mont that went all the way to the end of MR to the "Road end" waypoint (aka the trailhead). At our hostel (Casa Apel), they told us it would arrive at 8:45. Not sure if this is the same bus that others said would pass Puerto Varras at 8:15 or if it just goes to the road end only in high season. It was 7000 per person - I think they might charge double for backpacks, it seemed expensive but happy they took us all the way.

We were at the entrance at 11 AM and were let through for free when we told them we were going to El Arco. Nat worries this excuse won't last long. The way to La Junta is really busy (met maybe 50 people and about ten horses), easy and without many views as it goes through a forest. When we reached La Junta, we decided that the valley is too special to just walk on by, so we decided to try our luck and ask for camping in order to do the side trips. We asked all the campsites and only La Junta let us stay, 8000 CLP per person. Nat says it is important not to spread the word as they were nice people and did us a favor even though they were not supposed to allow people without reservations to stay. So, do not expect to be let in. We had a numbered site so I think they genuinely had some places free. If nobody had places, after ford 98.9, there is a maze of paths and mini-meadows on the left where I saw somebody camp illegally. If you hide your packs well for the day and then camp from dusk till dawn, you would probably get away with it. Alternatively there are some flat spots in Trinidad valley two hours up - if you start so that you would arrive by dusk, you should meet nobody.

The side trips are steep but not challenging, many people take them. We went to Paloma [November 2024: in our suggestions and in OSM, like the next option too] in the evening, it can be done in three hours there and back if you do not stop (we did). We started going up at 1715 and saw last person going down at 1830 or so. It is quite splendid and fun, there are a couple of places you have to use a fixed rope. OSM says there is a route to Cerro La Junta. It is probably an exit route for climbers, I did not see any traces of it, but it looked like it was possible. If it is, one could probably continue all the way to Cerro Capicua.

Arco Iris is still closed. If it were open I think one could follow the ridge, which is not very steep or outcroppy, all the way north to above GPT21 - only there is probably no way down [November 2024: in the Facebook group, it was said that somebody died there and that is why it is close, so maybe there is nothing wrong with the path, but it is closed officially for sure].

The next morning I went to the Trinidad Valley and all the way up to Cerro Bella Vista and Nat went ahead to escape the approaching rain. The roundtrip takes about 7-8 hours. There is a marked travelled trail to the pass ("El Paso"), the last 300 vertical meters or so are marked by cairns. You will need your hands occasionally, but it is not exposed or particularly hard - SAC 4. The views are well worth it. It seemed most people only go to La Laguna (lake just under the pass). We started at 6 AM and I met the first people on my way down around noon at La Laguna. The way up through Camping Vista Hermosa (the current GPT track) is not supposed to be used by people not staying at the campsite. The proper way up seems to be the more western trail that is marked on OSM. Going back down trough camping Bella Vista was without issues though. They told Natalie you are not supposed to use their cable car (the one more upstream). Tomáš thinks you should use it as it is the only one that you can use without going through either of the campsites (the downstream one goes directly from La Junta campsite). No horseflies by now!

I left the camping at 15:30, and met only one group of hikers all the way up to the second Camp waypoint at Lago Grande. It is a nice camp, bigger than the first, but no good water sources. Wild legal camping, if I get it right. Refuge El Arco is unmanned, it is just a simple wooden hut. I would only use it in case of severe rain. The way up was almost all dry after two weeks of no rain. Mostly through forest, with some nice views of the valley, a few more fords than indicated, but they could all be jumped.

The next day it rained (5mm?) from 4 AM till 11 AM but it was not enough to make the trails substantially muddy. Nat had camped under a tree on a bench at Doña Luisa (5mil) and despite the rain was mostly dry without a tent. Tomáš had camped at Lago Grande and the tent got very wet (but not his sleeping bag). The bridge before Lago Vidal is not there but there was a nice log. There are some pre-colonization rock paintings after Lago Vidal, one probably needs to make a sidetrip to see them based on the information signs near Torrentoso (trail 22-10 was signposted; trails in the valley are well maintained so I assume the option is good to go). On the last meadow before the gone bridge at 51.8, there was a cherry tree that still had very tasty miniature cherries in the beginning of February. It is behind the house to the left of the trail, maybe 40 m from it. I discovered it by going south of the house (nobody seemed to be in it). Do not miss the turnoff of the trail from the meadow - I went straight, there was initially a trail but petered out into a landslide. Camp at 45.2 is nice but bring water (reach it by turning left from the trail cca 50-100 m beyond the imaginary shortest route from the trail to the camp, that way you avoid any vegetation, there is an opening in the fence (-41.70438, -71.99186). Finally met Natalie after two days of escaping rain, she found a dry spot under the tree canopies there. Shop in El Manso is better than expected (has good veges and fruit) but not as good as the one in Llanada Grande. El Manso also is besides a cerveceria with wifi (you have to buy the beer). The bus only came at 1530 despite being told it comes at 1pm. In almost three hours of waiting, we did not manage to hitch a car.

The bus indeed stops at Llanada Grande for 10 minutes or so - it is not really enough to orientate yourself and buy lots of supplies. The supermarket had lots of nectarines! Should you want to go to Puerto Urutia, the bus does not go there so you need to get off and walk the minor road there. We could not get reliable Entel internet reception anywhere in the valley (calls were fine) along the bus route.

We went to Primer Corral to do 22-08. The first few km are not a pleasant road to walk on. We decided to turn back as bad weather was coming in two days and it did not seem worth it. Not sure how far the road for cars goes. There seems to be regular but sparse traffic on it.

We walked back for about an hour on the main road before getting a hitch for the last 3 km to turnoff to 22-02, as others indicated the RR is badly passable due to a landslide. The MR we walked was aesthetically dreadful and supersteep. We had to climb a locked gate right at the start. We found a miniature camping spot (dry) about 200 m before the signposted trail turnoff. In the morning a lorry driver waved at us so probably no issues with climbing the gate. Luckily the trail is much nicer than the road. We met the settler at the lake Azul, he let us walk through his property. The few km to the first very small lake are actually an undriven MR, but very pleasant, it does not seem to be connected to the road network. After 2 km, one turns left onto a trail, there are new signposts indicating you ca go to the "Frontera" or the lake - go to the Frontera. Until the pass, it is very clear. After the pass, the visibility deteriorates somewhat but no bush bashing is involved. Soon after that, there is a gate saying there is no trail afer a harsh winter. We went further and it turned out there is a trail. There were some trees on it, but not too much and we lost it only for about 50 m. From setler at 11.4, the trail is much more clear. Met a seemingly lonely girl from the next homestead with whom we had a lovely chat. The trail to the border control was easy, we came there at 1530 and were let through. They told us that it would be ok to reach the Argentinian border control the next day. They too had a very ripe cherry tree but did not pick up on my appraisal of it and did not suggest I get some fruit.

We met several people on the way to Argentina border. We camped there (wild permitted numbered camping sites - there was about twenty other Argentinians, the functioning toilets are unsigned immediately next to the Police building, the building that looks like the old toilets is closed). The next day we had no issues with getting a stamp and going down. The last CC part is a trail. We forded the second ford a bit earlier than suggested, it was waist deep but very slow moving. Took a bus at 1340 to El Bolson - seems to run regularly (the dog bandits there are aggressive, watch out).

* '''2024-Jan-19 to 2024-Jan-24 / 6 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + day trip / Lotti & Alex'''

We did this section mostly as described by Fangwen and Tobi (El Manso to Cochamo base camp), so there is not much to add. We stayed at La Junta for 2 nights and did a very nice day trip to Cerro Bellavista (see description further down). The trails were very well maintained all the way. The only minor problems were mud and lots of horse flies. Like Fangwen and Tobi, we were happy we did the section NOBO, because the landscape gets more and more spectacular. This way it is also much easier to get to camp at La Junta without reservation, because they always reserve some space for hikers coming from the south.
It was a beautiful hike and especially the area around La Junta is really spectacular and worth visiting. We even met a fellow GPT hiker there, which was great!

Transportation:

To start:
Bus "Rio Puelo" from Puerto Varas to Lago Tagua-Tagua at 8:20am, then ferry to Puerto Maldonado, then bus to El Manso. We arrived at the trailhead around 1pm.

after hike:
Bus from end of trailhead ("Cochamo base camp") to Cochamo/Puerto Montt at 1pm.

Day trip to Cerro Bellavista:

Start at La Junta on GPT Variant G, following the signs to "Trinidad". It starts by crossing the river with the little cable car. After the walls of Trinidad, stay on the trail and follow the signs to "Laguna". The official trail ends there, but there are stone cairns and ribbons marking a trail that goes up to the pass. The laguna is crowded, but we didn't meet anyone further up. The view at the pass is already great, but you can go up even further. Turn to the left and follow the stone cairns until the summit. It is not difficult, just walking and easy scrambling, and the view is absolutely spectacular.
The whole tour has about 1300m of altitude difference. It took us around 5h to go up, and 3-4h down.

* '''2024-01-07 to 2024-01-14: Fangwen and Tobi / 2.5 days Ventisquero Valley (Option 08 + more), 4 days El Manso to Cochamo RR / NOBO hiking.'''

We did two parts along this enjoyable section, connecting them by hitchhiking and resupplying in between in Llanada Grande.

The first part was hiking ~20km into the scenic Ventisquero valley (Option 08), alongside a wonderful river on an enjoyable and easy hiking trail through farms and rainforest that mostly follows an old minor road. It's often better to follow the well-marked trail rather than the GPT track files. A highlight of our trip was hiking up to a fantastic viewpoint at 1100m with a view of the whole valley, its remote side valleys and glaciated mountain peaks. The trail (900m elevation gain, 4.5km) through the thick rainforest is steep but excellent in quality and easy to follow (but the turnoff at S 42° 01.737', W 072° 05.643' is easy to miss). This and other trails in the valley are not part of the GPT files yet, but GPX files can be found on the website of Rincon Bonito (glamping accommodation for groups) that presumably created the trail. We camped by the viewpoint; what a wonderful experience! There are plenty of places to pitch up a tent, but little protection from wind. We found a wind protected camp in a dried-out puddle at (S 42° 02.705', W 072° 06.193'). Make sure to bring water, since the last reliable water source is in the valley, just before the turnoff onto the steep trail. From the viewpoint, we attempted to climb the local mountain, but beyond 1500m, it appears to require bush bashing. Our track: [[Media:GPT 22 Ventisquero Viewpoint.gpx]]. [https://rinconbonito.cl/experiencias/ The GPX on their site].
The viewpoint is within the Pumalin National Park, but the whole valley seems to be private property and camping is forbidden outside official campsites, which begin quite far into the valley. There are plenty of spots to pitch up a tent nonetheless (which is what we did).
For packrafters, going down the river must surely be a highlight! Rincon Bonito offers packrafting (maybe only for their guests?), they describe it as class II+.

Our second part followed the regular route 22N from El Manso to the Cochamo trailhead. This was an enjoyable hike and we found the trail to be in good condition, although it gets pretty muddy around El Arco (and that's after one week of sunny weather). There is quite a bit of pointless up and down between km45 and km79. Additionally, our hiking distance was often 20-25% longer than expected, as there are many switchbacks too small to be represented on the track files. We liked hiking this section northbound, as the rainforest and the views get more and more impressive as you go along. La Junta has a lot of local hiking options (e.g. hiking into the Anfiteatro valley or on top of Cerro Trinidad), but we didn't spend any extra days because the weather was turning.

Logistics: to get to the start of section 22, take the daily bus that leaves at 7.45am from Puerto Montt (stops at 8.15 in Puerto Varas at intersection el Salvador/San Pedro S 41° 19.081', W 072° 59.038', and later in Cochamo). The bus company Río Puelo has a ticket office in Puerto Montt, their WhatsApp number is +56 9 7408 9199. From there, take the ferry across Lago Tagua Tagua and the connecting bus down the valley to your respective trailhead (El Manso for the Cochamo valley, Primer Corral for the Ventisquiero valley). Note that travel is slow... We arrived at the Primer Corral at 4pm. We left a bag of food for the second half of our trip. Unfortunately it was visible from the parking lot and got stolen, so we resupplied at the Llanada Grande supermarket. The bus makes a stop there for ~15min, if you want a quick resupply there (it's a bit bigger than in El Manso). We hitchhiked to El Manso, which worked after two hours of waiting/walking (not a lot of traffic).

If you are in the Llanada Grande area, go to Camping Reflejo Azul. The campsite itself is average, but it has the most beautiful river we have ever seen in our lives. Visit this truly special place before Instagram influencers find out about it and it becomes overrun by hordes of tourists. Day access is possible also for 5.000 CLP.

Photos: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/permalink/1732098767296002/?app=fbl

* '''2024-Jan-4 / 7.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RH + OP-LK-2 + RP / Lauren & Sebastian'''

Note: We were told a reservation is needed for a camp site at La Junta to be allowed into the valley from Cochamo side, so we did that. However, one of the wikiexplora entry mentioned that they were allowed in when mentioning that they wanted to camp at El Arco Refuge but we read it too late. Camp Trawen is the most expensive (15k per person), which is the reason why it’s been available on short notice. There are several other sold-out camps around for 8k-10k.

Day 1: We hitchhiked to Cochamo Base Camp at 9am and reached Camp Trawen by 2pm. It would have been better to go on the El Arco Refuge straight away and camp there. It’s a touristy stretch and in our view not really worth doing, if you like the general quiet nature of the GPT.

Day 2: Camped at the beach at Lago Vidal. Easy hike but lots of ups and downs.

Day 3: We packrafted Lago Vidal and had a good lunch at Luisa’s place (make sure to drop by!), before continuing on to Torrentoso (not the paid camp, but on the meadow a few hundred meters after the official camp).

Day 4: The bridge at wp Bridge {22N} [51.8/146] (Rio Steffen) does not exist anymore. It’s not a demanding ford but there are short steep ups and downs on both sides. We stayed near wp Settler {22N} [50.1/307].

Day 5: We rivered in at wp Rio Manso. The ride was super scenic and beautiful and there were no rapids, just a bit of boiling water but nothing difficult, which might be due to different water levels compared to previous accounts. It’s 45 minutes from there to the bridge at wp Bridge {22N} [40.8+0.2/36]. We rivered out behind the bridge on the right side. There is a nice flat beach which leads to the cabin of Harv and Veronica. They let us camp on their land and even offered a hot (wood fired) shower for 2.5k per person. There is a cervezeria and shop across the road for resupply.

Day 6: We took the bus at 1 pm to intersection at wp X {22-01} [25.0/187] and went on OP-MR-V (along Hunter’s estate) to Lago Azul. You will be charged 5k per person to access the lake. We crossed Lago Azul with strong waves and tailwind so we sailed to the other side in no time.

Day 7: Crossed Lago de Las Rocas, Lago Inferior, and Lago Puelo to the Argentinian border control which opens at 8am next morning so we camped there. Next day we finished at Lago Puelo which is a popular tourist beach.

Tip: It is a hot & dusty walk to town from the beach and hitchhiking is not as easy in this part of Argentina as in Chile. Keep some small change of USD or Argentinian pesos for the bus ride to resupply in town. If you plan to continue packrafting Lago Puelo on GPT23 after resupplying, the earliest bus back to the beach reaches around 7.30am but it will be too late as the wind picks up by 8am. Lago Puelo is known for its strong gusts so it’s best to check wind forecast and paddle early morning 5.30am to cross. Therefore it may be easier to camp at one of the campsites nearer to the beach instead of staying in town. Just go there for resupplying.

*'''2023 Dec OH-TL-V / Anh'''
Note: the trail OH-TL-V alias Cerro Arco Iris [from La Junta] was damaged by big rocks in the last season and is completely closed. A new route or repair is not in planning.

* '''2023-12-17 to 2023-12-21 / 5 days / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO /RR & Option 01B / Roman'''

Route: Hiking from Cochamó to El Manso. Bus to Lago de Las Rocas. Packrafted the lake and Lago Inferior. Hiked to Lago Puelo.

Due to the border crossing, there is a thread about it on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/permalink/1709504102888802/. I applied online - no answer. Went to the carabineros in Cochamó they couldn't issue it, so I went without it (it worked without a problem)

Started in Cochamó (there is a bus to the entry I just got him by hitchhiking so I don't know the schedule) and had a reservation for Camp Trawen (Fruit, Groceries, Electricity). This is getting checked at the entrance if you have one. The trail to the camp was a bit muddy (2 days of rain before the start) but all doable. The next day went to the northern end of Lago Vidal Gormaz and slept there at Lake {22-05} [7.9/604]. Bridge destroyed at: -41.43696, -71.96632 and Bridge {22N} [63.0/337] (Rio El Colorado). Both are crossable dry feed due to trees. Generally, there is no fording necessary after Lago Vidal Gormaz. Before yes. Packrafted Rio Manso. There were no rapids on the map, it's mentioned in the Manuel that it can be challenging. There are some rapids but all are doable and manageable (I am a beginner with kayak experience and an open deck packraft). You can get easy access to the river at -41.692561, -71.972725 this is 300m after the mark in the file. There is a dry river bed to avoid BB to get to the River. The river is fast flowing. Follow the GPS only at one point where the river splits pay extra attention: turn left as shownin the GPS: -41.698615, -71.985482 . Went out at the south side of the bride: Bridge {22N} [40.8+0.2/36] (Rio Manso) on the right side. There is a trail to the street with one gate where you can walk through on the right side. The shop Settlement, Shop, Bus {22N} [40.7/36] (El Manso) has good supplies and free WiFi. The trail to this point is very good. Based on previous comments and a chat to a local I want to skip at least to Puerto Urrutia [comment in: 2023-FEB-01 to 2023-FEB-07]. There is an official bus going all the way from Rampa Punta

Maldonado -> Segundo Corral. Find the schedule here: https://imgur.com/a/7MVEscb . The shop owner said the bus is normally there at 02:00 PM. The bus was there in my case at 02:30 PM. This bus stops at the large supermarket [Supermercado Llanada Grande] a great place for a last resupply). The bus also stops at Puerto Urrutia but I went all the way to Lago de Las Rocas and used OH-MR-V {22-01B} [8.2+1.9] to get to the lake. Started packrafting at 05:00 PM. The start was fine. The wind got worse during the evening and was to my capabilities on the maximum with serious waves. Strong wind from the north. It was pleasantly paddling after going through the gap at -42.069608, -71.813735. Camped at Lake, Camp {22S} [21.8/314]. Got there at 07:45 PM. Crossed the border without any problems. Packrafted Lago Inferior and got in the water here: Lake {22S} [20.9/201] at 10:00 AM. The wind got stronger but manageable. Exited the lake at 11:15 AM at -42.102244, -71.742575. The trail back to the RR is good to hike. From there, the trail is in good condition. Due to the higher water in Rio Azul fording and therefore the RR is not possible. You get also the recommendation from the Argentinien carabineros to take Option 03. I didn't want to take this and followed the RR to this point: -42.091481, -71.633667. From there I followed the trail to this point: -42.09399, -71.634188. There is an old dock [image here: https://imgur.com/a/5LMsKA1]to put in you packraft. The trail can be downloaded at the end of the comment. There I packrafted with very strong onshore wind and if it hadn't been for only 300m I wouldn't have done it to (03:15 PM):-42.096114, -71.628682 ,and walked from there to the end of GPT22.

Overall: great section! It's a nice trail to hike and packrafting rRioEl Manso is a lot of fun and a great change in perspective after hiking for a few days. After that, the trail continues bto bein a good condition. The conditions for Lago de Las Rocas should be closely checked. I would definitely recommend it!

Trail download: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqzLweJ3NZW5q7YZzDoW3qlKypqwBg

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Dec-03 to 2023-Dec-12 / 9 days / PACKRAFTING / NOBO & SOBO / Jordan Jennings'''
Route:

took bus to Primer Corral>Arroyo Ventisquero>Rio Puelo (walked 13km of rapids through canyon)>Lago Tagua Tagua>Rio Puelo>Estero Reloncavi to Cochamó (nobo) took bus back towards Primer Corral from Cochamó, asked to be dropped off near Lago Azul.. Lago Azul>lago las rocas>Lago Inferior>Lago Puelo>Lago Puelo town (sobo).

Highlights:

Arroyo ventisquero: is well worth a visit, packrafting or hiking. I got told that there is a hostel run by an abuela 4km further up the valley from Rincon Bonito (posh cabins) where the route on track files stops (c20km up valley from Primer Corral). Between the hostel and Rincon there are rapids, so be prepared to walk back to Rincon to put boat in water. The river from Rincon to Rio Puelo is stunning and very easy in packraft.

Lago Azul: If you flip flop (as recommended if packrafting), and return back to Primer Corral for sobo travel as Jan mentions in the manual, ask the bus driver to drop you at Lago Azul, rather than taking the bus closer to the Lago las rocas trailhead/Primer Corral. The 3km walk from the bus stop to the lake is easy and I got super lucky and passed a local horse race (Carreras) on a Saturday. Maybe ask ahead when they are on?!

Other comments:

The hiking section bypassing Rio Puelo (first set of) rapids through canyon, the 13km or so took me all day. Parts of the trail were barely a trail, very slow kms. Although I was also a bit sick so my experience might be tainted. The alternative is taking roads on the right hand side of the river.

I hiked the section between the Argentinian border patrol and lago puelo town (13km) which passed through some stunning farmland (lago puelo can get angry with wind as with any big lake). The dotted line section or shortcut which requires two river fords was impassable for me. Rio Azul was not even close to being fordable mid December. And even if you did pass, you would have to take the road to Puelo anyway.

In terms of transport to Primer Corral, the bus leaves Cochamó at 10:30am and Puelo at 11:30am (same bus, which I think starts in Puerto Montt v early). From the ferry there’s another local bus that will essentially drop you wherever you want (en route) to primer corral. Super easy.

==Season 2022/23==
* '''2023-Feb-18 to 2023-Feb-23 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 22-01 / Martin & Helena'''

A lot has been already written, so just a few comments from our side:

No problem with entering the valley in SOBO direction, until the noon aprox., saying you will spend the night at the refugio El Arco - they have some time estimate for this hike and can’t let you in if its late. By the entrance you can buy some useful things that might be hard to buy in Cochamo, like gas or peanut butter. There was also a beer truck with quite good wifi connection (only during summer). Crowds of people in both directions, quite muddy trail. Detour to the Toboganes is definitely worth it. We spend the night after all in a marked camp aprox. 4 kms before the refugio and it was a good decision - there were quite a lot of people when we passed by the next day.

From the refugio its nice and easy walking. We spent the night on the southern side of Lago Vidal Gomaz where is amazing campsite Doña Luisa, for I think 5000 CLP pp. We bought there beer, some cheese and bread in the morning, and you can also charge electronics inside. It is possible to have proper breakfast or dinner, it looked all very tasty. At km N 40.7 is shop with all the basic things + great brewery next to it, definitely stop there if you are a fan.

Based on other comments and our time schedule we decided to take the alternative 22-01 to Llanada Grande. This is a good resuppy spot as there is a new and big (at least in comparison to what you would expect in a place like this) supermarket that replaced the old one destroyed by fire. Good place to stay is a campsite at the end of the village, on the right side, run by really nice lady. Not expensive and if its free, you can stay for the same price in a so called refugio, that is actually just a very small room, but for us better than a tent. Hot water and electricity + possibility to buy pizza and maybe some other small things - there is actually no restaurant in the village. Some more road walking around Lago Totoral to Rio Puelo to connect back to RR. In general not very attractive part of the trail. Great restaurant in Hostal Puelo Libre with local beer and view on the river.

From the port its again easy walking on the RR again. Drunk settler and quite agressive dogs out of his control at S km 7.2 so be careful. We slept half way to Las Rocas lake. We thought about taking the RR around the lake, but the landslide caused by snow (aprox. 1.5 km from the port) looked quite difficult to pass. We discovered there is possibility to cross the lake on one of the locals boat, which we did in the end. We were lucky that after waiting for some time in the port a car with locals arrived. Happily for us they arranged a boat transfer with other residents to get to the other side of the lake, where they went for a lunch. We were able to go with them, and after picking up their friends, we all hop off the boat close to the police station. Great experience and we learned a lot about this area and people living here. We paid 10k CLP. In the comments here is a contact for the guy with a boat, but without signal it must be arranged in advance, and the price might differ when not sharing the transfer with others. No problem with the border check. It took us around 4 hrs to get to the argentinian side, where everyone was super friendly as well. They offered us to camp there, but we decided to make it to Lago Puelo, which took us 2 more hrs. The landscape changes significantly on the other side where everything is more dry. No problem with the river crossing. We got off the trail directly on the main road.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-FEB-01 to 2023-FEB-07 / 7 days / hiking / SOBO / Cochamó - Lago Puelo / Anna & Christopher '''

We hitchhiked from Eco Camping El Valle to the entry of the park and arrived around 8 am. We told them that we would camp at the Refugio El Arco and explained our further route. Until la Junta there were lots of chilenean tourists, therefore the path was very good only with some muddy stretches. Like Véronica we walked to Toboganes, a waterfall/stream with beautiful rock formations. There were tons of people, but it's worth it. La junta seems to be an amazing place for rock climbing, we would have loved to have some climbing gear with us.

After la Junta there were almost no more hikers. We camped next to the Refugio, as there were already two other groups of hikers sleeping in the Refugio.

Until Lago grande there are still some muddy stretches and blowdowns, but generally it is a good path. From there on the path is perfectly maintained. We camped at approx. km 66 next to Río los Morros.

Nice path until El Manso. We resupplied at the minimercado and camped next to the river, which was a beautiful camping spot with lots of delicious blackberrys.

The next morning we arrived at Señora Ocos house around 8 am. She contacted multiple people and luckily found out that there was somebody crossing the river to our side at 11 am. The man, whose name we unfortunately forgot, was super friendly and dropped us off after the river mouth of Rio Traidor, close to where he lives. He charged 10.000 CLP p.p.

The path to the first settler was mediocre and afterwards got worse and worse until it was almost pure buschwhacking. It was the worst we had so far on the GPT. Thorns.. Lots of thorns tearing away at your clothes, backpack and skin.
We camped at the river at approx. km 12, which was a beautiful spot.
Until the settlement Las Nieves the path continued beeing bad with lots of bush bashing. The settler told us that no locals use that path and she also told us that there are no regular boat transfers to Puerto Urrutia on weekends (it was sunday..).
We wouldn't do that stretch next to Rio Puelo again and instead hitchhike from El Manso to Puerto Urrutia.

At the boat transfer waypoint to Puerto Urrutia we had Entel service and contacted one lodging on the other side. They told us to go to the last house 1km back to ask for a transfer (it's the house of the man who does the boat transfer on weekdays). But we got lucky and a boat passed by and took us to the other side. The man on the boat also told us that the path from Río Traidor to Puerto Urrutia "is closed".

We continued to Lago verde, where we planned to camp, but it's surrounded by dense forest, apart from a private property.
That spot is amazing, a little landing stage to go swimming, a great view and a very friendly owner. She even baked some delicious apple bread for us. For camping she charged us 8000 CLP p.p.. That was definetly worth it.

After Lago verde there is a minimarket. We didn't check it out, but there is no resupply wp yet.

After reading previous blogs and having had enough of thorns we decided to cross el Lago de Las Rocas by boat. Therefore there is a walkie talkie on the landing stage on the northern end of the lake with which you can contact Richard. We also got his number (+56958694897), if you want to contact him in advance. When we arrived at the lake, there were already lots of people waiting for the boat so we just waited with them and after some time got knocked the boat with them. The ride was really nice across the crystal clear blue water and we were charged 5000 p.p.

From the southern end of the lake it's just a couple of minutes to walk to the chilenian border control. We continued on and camped at km 30 at the river. Again a really beautiful spot.

The next day we passed the argentinian border control and continued to Lago Puelo.

The section was really beautiful, except the part with the thorns. There are lots of streams along the whole trail, so one does not need to carry much water.

* '''2023-Jan-29 to 2023-Feb-02 / 5 days / hiking / NOBO / RR mostly / Frank'''

I got the bus-ferry-bus from Puerto Montt to Segundo Corral. To avoid the landslide at Laguna Las Rocas & delays with the river ferries I walked on the road from Segundo Corral to El Manso, about 50KM. Easy but not very interesting walking. It takes a full day to get from Puerto Montt on the bus to Segundo Corral so I believe it would be better to go SOBO with an early start to get through La Junta, otherwise you need 2 additional days for travel.

Stayed @ nice & cheap campsite at bridge over Rio Colorado & camped at El Arco. The trail approaching El Arco was muddy & a bit swampy (it had been raining). It's possible to go by boat across Lago Vidal Gomez but it's an easy 3 hour walk.

Got the bus again to Segundo Corral & ferry to Paso Bolson. The trail across the border is generally in good condition. There is some easy bushbashing on the Chilean side for about 1KM before the border & some fallen trees but they are straightforward to go over. Rio Azul was easily fordable in early February.

* '''2023-Jan-10 to 2023-Jan-14 / 5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR, also GPT22-01 / Véronica '''

Route: Cochamó - La Junta - Lago Vidal Gormáz - El Manso - Puerto Urrutio via Option 1 - Lago Las Rocas - Lago Puelo (Argentina)

The borders of Paso El León and Paso El Bolsón are both opened again for tourists! Go for it! It is a beautiful section with wonderful people, such a contrast to where I started the GPT further north.

In Cochamó, I stayed at Eco Camping El Valle, right at the entrance to the Cochamó River Valley. Paid 7000 clp, very nice campground, there are tarps over the picnic tables at each site so you have a dry place to hang out even if it rains :) Since I spent the night so close to the trailhead, it was easy to get to the guarded valley entrance (Road End {22N} [109.8/58]) early. I did not have a camping reservation for La Junta. I arrived at the trailhead at 7:30 a.m., explained my route to the staff, saying I would stay at Refugio El Arco that night. They let me through no problem. The trail to La Junta is a bit muddy, but nothing bad, my feet stayed dry in my trailrunners despite the fact it was also raining off and on. Beautiful path through the Valvidian rainforest, I really enjoyed all the green and the moss. When I reached the La Junta area, I stashed my pack in some trees and made a short detour to Las Toboganes. They are only 0.7 km off the regular route, and highly worthwhile to see! What a spectacular area, I totally see the Yosemite resemblence, and would love to go back someday.

I found the trail after La Junta (all the way to Lago Vidal Gormáz) to be in good shape, contrary to what others have written. It was maybe slightly less maintained than the popular trail leading into the valley, but it was still very clear and easy to follow — not overgrown, no blowdowns, just a bit muddy in some places. Granted, it has been drier than normal so far this summer. None of the fords went above my knees, and sometimes I could cross the creeks without even getting my feet wet, all very easy.

The refugio at El Arco is dark and without any furniture inside. I found it much nicer to camp in the nearby meadow just south of the trail there. There are outhouses.

Nice path from Lago Vidal Gormáz all the way to El Manso. Very beautiful in this valley as well. Met a few arrieros along the way. Most of the rivers have bridges crossing them. There is a small camp at the bridge over Río Colorado.

In El Manso, I topped off my food supply at the shop on the main road. It has a good selection of food items. Then I went to Señora Oco's house to try and arrange a boat transfer over Río Puelo. She and her family are very friendly and welcoming. I arrived there mid-afternoon, but she could not get in radio contact with anyone on the other side. In the evening, we heard back from Hospedaje Nancy, who charged 60,000 clp for a crossing upriver all the way to Río Traidor (where she lives). This I found too expensive for me traveling alone. Señora Oco baked some bread and I was able to buy some. She also said I was welcome to camp in the fields behind her house while waiting for a response from settlers Paulina and Jovino regarding a crossing to their place (much more direct and therefore likely much cheaper). The next morning, we still hadn't received any response from Paulina and Jovino either via radio or Whatsapp (they may have been away). Because of this, I decided to take the gravel road to Puerto Urrutia (Option 1), and forgo crossing Río Puelo, unfortunately. Despite this setback, I'm really glad I got to meet and spend time with Señora Oco and her family, they are such kind people.

I was able to hitch most of the way to Puerto Urrutia, where I rejoined the regular route. The trail from there all the way to Lago Las Rocas is mostly easy and clear. There were a few confusing junctions in the vicinity of Lago Verde, so I kept a close eye on the GPS there. After crossing the road after that, the beginning of RR -TL-V {22S} [2.8/7.1+2.7] is tricky to find. There are lots of fallen trees and many forest paths. The GPS was very helpful there too until I finally found the right path. After about 700 m it merges with a nice clear path all the way to Lago Las Rocas.

As has been previously reported, there is a large rockslide about 2 km in once you reach Lago Las Rocas. It didn't look overly dangerous to me, the boulders were large and seemed solid enough. I started crossing it right at the bottom where the rocks fall into the lake, as it looked to be the easiest and safest way across. I was maybe 50 meters through it, when a boat came along, and the people in it told me to hop in! What lucky timing! As we passed the rest of the rockslide, I could see the last part of it was steep, loose scree rather than big boulders. That part would have definitely been nerve-wracking to cross, and I was very grateful for the boat ride. The settlers who owned the boat live about 3 km along the trail, at a little bay/inlet in the lake. They have a nice beach and campground too. That's where I rejoined the trail. Beyond their house, the "Camino Los Mosquitos," as it is locally called, gets progressively worse in terms of overgrowth and blowdowns. The trail has not been cleared since the past winter, and not been used either. The stretch between kilometers 4 and 6.5 is the worst. It felt more like pure bushwhacking than following a trail. The path was mostly burried beneath walls of downed trees and branches, it got very hard to follow at times. Lots of climbing over and under vegetation, some of it quite thorny too. Very slow and tiring. My pack got ripped up a bit and so did my clothing. Had I known the trail was this bad, I would have taken the option on the east side of Lago Las Rocas. It's hard to imagine it could be in worse shape than the regular route.

When I got to the Chilean Border Control it was around 6:30 p.m., so too late to cross that day. The border agent working there was very friendly, but he couldn't get in contact with his supervisor to get approval for stamping my passport with the next day's date. So I camped back at Lago Las Rocas, and the next morning came back at 8 a.m. when the border post reopened. The trail on the Chilean side of the border was a bit rough in places, it has been neglected since the winter too. But it was not as bad as the previous stretch along Lago Las Rocas. Once I got into Argentina, it got much better. The trails in Parque Nacional Lago Puelo are well-maintained, and I met some day hikers. No issues at the Argentine Border Control.

I was able to ford Río Azul easily, thanks to the dry weather. There are three branches of the river to cross (the GPS waypoints only show two of them). The middle branch is the widest and deepest. The water there went up to my upper thighs (I'm 165 cm), but the current was slow and it never felt dangerous.

Now I'm skipping down to GPT32 to continue my adventure further south :) The northern sections that I hiked from 6 to 22 were simply amazing, with great weather almost the entire time. Thank you, all!

* '''2022-Oct-19 to 2022-Oct-24 / 6 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / ???'''

Here are the main points because our story is long :)
Paso el bolson and El Leon are closed for tourists until further notice
Some of trails are in bad condition because of the hard winter but they might be cleared in the following weeks.
Landslide in Lago Las rocas - very dangerous part to cross. We suggest to take an optional route

The trail starts in valle cochamo. We did not have any reservations but as we were in low season we were not worried. However the lady from the tourist office in Cochamo told us to arrive at the entrance of the valley between 7 & 8 to avoid being rejected. At 7h50 there was nobody at the reception so we did not have any trouble, but we cannot say for the high season.
You can arrange a car transfer to go the valley entrance. The numbers of the drivers are available at the tourist office.

The trail until La Junta is muddy but well maintained - no worries there. Up there we met some arrieros and the locals from the camping and they told us that the trail was closed a bit further because of snow (up to 2 meters) in laguna Blanca. This is the highest part of the trail (about 1100m). The river crossings were feasible, but as they forecasted rain for the next day, we preferred to turn back in order to avoid being blocked between high rivers and snow.

Back on the road between Cochamo and Puelo, we caught at about 10:30 the bus that leaves at 7:45 from Puerto Montt, to go to Rio Manso. There is a well furnished Shop where you can even find gas.
We remained in the Southbound direction and went to Senora Oco's house. She was very welcoming, and her and her grandchild helped us in arranging a boat transfer for the following morning (nothing was possible the same day). We paid 50000 pesos to go from their house to Rio Traidor - close to Nancy hospedaje. Indeed, we skipped the first part of the trail as they told us that it was very closed with a lot of small trees and not used anymore. Maybe it would be cheaper to cross a bit south using the cable car or directly from Manso to Rio Traidor.

Until the Rio Tigre, settler # 22N [7.7/157], the trail is visible but sometimes with some obstacles (fallen trees). After this settling, you will have to cross the Rio Tigre which might be the hardest to cross on your way if you have a lot of rain. There is a bridge indicated on the tracks but it has been swept away this winter. The best place to cross is a bit higher following the river, follow the horse track. We did not have any problem crossing, and probably the settler could help you with his horse if the river is too high. That is an advantage of the Southbound direction.

After, the trail is really clear. We found the last transfer across Rio Puelo about 1 km before the point indicated on the track. It is his job to do the crossings and he also does sportive fishing if you are interested. Look for a house with a border collie with a piece of wood around the neck :)

From Puerto Urrutia, the trail is clear again until the road. There is a shop at 600m on the right. Again here, the trail is closed due to fallen trees at the beginning, but the locals (last house on the right) will help you find another path. Clear trail until Lago Las Rocas.

Once you reach the Lago Las rocas you will be blocked after 2km. Indeed there was a landslide this winter and you have to cross a very dangerous part of about 300 m of rocky mountain slide. It is not stabilized yet. We went through but we do not advise it.
Also, there were a lot of fallen trees and the path was really tiring. The locals will probably clear the path in the following weeks. To get more information we suggest to contact the camping Playa Las Rocas on Instagram.
You can also consider the other routes or arrange a boat crossing.

Finally we arrived at the border crossing. Unfortunately it was closed due to the Covid, except for the very locals (people from Cochamo). Apparently Paso el Leon is closed as well for tourists. Be aware of that if you have to cross the Chilean- Argentinian borders, as small passes seem to be closed for tourists.
In the end we had to go back to Puerto Montt crossing the Lago inferior with a free boat (ask the carabineros), and then the bus-ferry-bus from Segundo Corral.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2021-Nov-23 & 2021-Nov-25 / 2 days / Packrafting / SOBO / Estuario de Reloncavi from Ralun to Rio Puelo (Western shore) / Jan Dudeck & Meylin Ubilla'''

We paddled in two easy days the roughly 40 km southbound.

Start at Ralun at Puente Petrohue: On the right side of the bridge (view in river flow direction) is a suitable put-in and good spot to camp. The gate was closed but not locked. There are signs of people occasionally camping there.

Ralun to Cochamo: Packrafters in need to resupply can do this in Cochamo about 16 water kilometers from the put-in. Both, the western and eastern coast are suitable for packrafting. The eastern side is next to the main road what facilitates switching to hiking. The western side is less intervened and more scenic.

Ralun to Rio Puelo: Again, the western and eastern coast are suitable for packrafting. The eastern side is next to the main road what facilitates switching to hiking but requires the crossing of a 4 km wide bay in open water. The western side is less intervened and more scenic but requires crossing the 3 km wide Estuario de Reloncavi near Rio Puelo. On the western side are also the Termas de Sotomo that are suitable for camping.

Wind: On nice sunny days “viento sur” often kicks in around 10 am making southbound paddling difficult or unfeasible. We had two partially overcasted days and could paddle on the first day till 4 pm when wind became annoying strong. On the second day around 3 pm the wind and waves became unpleasant but by this time we were walking the final kilometers into Rio Puelo.

GPT22: Southbound packrafters may take in Cochamo or Rio Puelo the bus to Lago TaguaTagua an get to the recommended packrafting starting point of section GPT22 halfway into this section to Flip-Flop as recommended.

* '''2021-NOV-18 / 1 day / hiking / NOBO / Cochamó Valley (Lago Tagua Tagua - Lago Grande) / Tobías '''

The Section between La Junta Base and Lago Vidal Gormez was very challenging. It had been raining a lot, so the Trail was very muddy and I had to cross several rivers and creeks. Went straight from Cochamó to Lago Grande and camped there in some Snow. Met only a few settlers. After reaching Lago Vidal Gormez, the Trail was easy and I enjoyed the hike a lot. Amaizing área up there!

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-FEB-18 to 2020-FEB-21 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tyler '''
I didn’t have problems getting a campsite at la junta on the spot luckily. AMAZING area that I’ll be returning to again to do all the day hikes in. Aside from that, most the trail was very muddy, rainy, and unmaintained. This got a bit difficult after the 3rd day in a row. Good places to camp at the lakes over the pass SOBO. When I got down to Lago Vidal Gomez the trail improved.. I got some bread from a settler at the start of the lake. There right on the trail and super friendly and have rooms. The last ferry across Tagua Tagua leaves at 7 pm. I didn’t make it, so I slept underneath the office/bathrooms and took the ferry at 8:00 the next morning. I believe there’s another ferry at 12.

* '''. 2020-Jan-09 to 2020-Jan-11 / hiking / SOBO / RR / Shaun'''

Despite the austere warnings on the La Junta Camping website, I was able to make a reservation at short notice in high season, and the back and forth process only took a few hours. In Cochamó, I was warned that due to recent rain the river crossings at El Arco and another nearby river would likely be impassable. With four more days of heavy rain forecast, I decided to take the bus-ferry-bus combo to Puerto Urrutia and try to walk northbound from there with the optimistic hope that by the time I reached El Arco the river would be passable or, at least, the wait would be less. However, 10km north of the Rio Puelo crossing (service starts at 9am) my way was blocked by a high and fast river. I then retraced my steps and completed the rest of the section southbound - which was straightforward. The trail on the west side of Lago de la Roca until the frontera is a bit overgrown but still easy to see and nothing particularly slowed me down. On the Argentinian side the trail is well maintained. It is not permitted to camp on the 12km stretch between the border posts. I arrived too late to cross that day, but the Chileans stamped my passport with the next day’s date so I didn’t have to wait for the post to open at 9am. The Argentinian border guards informed me that because of the rain, the Rio Azul was too high to ford at the point on the regular hiking route just before Lago Puelo so I took the alternative route (Oh-Tl-V@22-04-#001) a few kms north and crossed over the La Pasarela bridge.

* '''2020-Jan-22 to 2020-Jan-26 / 5 days / hiking / SOBO / parque de la vallee de Cochamo - La Pasarella / Arnaud '''

As we arrived from Puerto Montt we were with the bus and stopped directly at the entrance of the private parque de la vallee de Cochamo.
As it is private, there are some rules to get in, or they block you at the control point.
The entrance is free but you need to have a reservation in one of the official camp sites there. To get the reservation, you can do it on internet (but you need to wait for the confirmation and it can be several days long), or do it directly there (red house), they give you the reservation voucher if there are places available (number seem to be limited). Then you pay the night when you reach the camp sites (6000 clp/pers).
Or the other solution is to say that you sleep in the refugio del Arco. It is 23km further after the control. Then it is free and no reservation is needed, but this is possible only before 10am (after they block you). After 10am the only way to pass is to sleep in the camp sites. They block you if you do not have a
reservation voucher for one camp site.
This spot (la Junta) is famous among the chilenos so the access to the camp sites is really overrunned. The path is easy to walk.
Once you go further than the campsites, you're alone, so it is better.
The path is clearly marked. There are bridges for most of the rivers you cross. But it is very muddy.
At the lago Vidal you can resupply a bit with those living there (you can also sleep in their camp sites).
In El Manso you can find a minimarket with lots of things.
Then, we decided to follow the road instead of the track because we were in a hurry with a deadline in El Bolson, until we reached la cruce de la rocas. There are buses or hitchiking is easy.
Crossing borders was easy. There are 12km between the chilean stamp and the Argentin one that we did in 3.5 hours.
At the very end we have not not crossed El Rio Azul, we walked 7 more km to the north to reach La Pasarella.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*In Cochamo go down towards the lake. There is a church on the left & before you reach it there is a hospedaje on the right, good & cheap.

Really nice Cafe (Materia Cochamo) with a good selection of coffee, cake (Kuchen) & sandwiches ca 50 meters before turning right to the cheap campsite.

*There is a good place to stay NOBO 500 metres before the junction where the road turns towards Laguna Las Rocas. Farmhouse on RHS of road has rooms & meals. Cheap, friendly & good

*In Segundo Corral there are two campsites. The first one is just before the school, it just says Kuchen but you can camp there. Cheap, nice family & they do meals. There is a campsite after the school but the owner was drunk & looking for an argument.
Lots of campsites at Lago Totoral (on the road, not on RR)
It's possible to camp near the Argentinian border control.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*2023 / Martin & Helena
We spent the night on the southern side of Lago Vidal Gomaz where is amazing campsite Doña Luisa, for I think 5000 CLP pp. We bought there beer, some cheese and bread in the morning, and you can also charge electronics inside. It is possible to have proper breakfast or dinner, it looked all very tasty. At km N 40.7 is shop with all the basic things + great brewery next to it, definitely stop there if you are a fan.

*Zapatoria Puerto Varas.He is located in the back corner of a market like building across the street from the Santa Isabella on San Bernardo street. San Bernardo & Del Salvador. I payed extra (10mil total) to have them finished and ready to go that day

=Transport to and from Route=

* February 2023 / Gerald
Bus lago puelo - El bolson:
According to the timetable the bus is leaving from the lake every full hour from 7am till midnight

* January 2023 Frank
To avoid the landslide at Laguna Las Rocas you can walk on the road or get the bus to Segundo Corral then from Lago Inferior about 1.5KM from Segundo Corral there is a ferry to Paso Bolson (Chilean border control).The government subsidised ferry runs Monday-Friday only from 8-12 & 2PM-6PM & is only 2000 pesos. You need to radio the ferryman to arrange pickup, easily done in Segundo Corral.

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
We decided to cross el Lago de Las Rocas by boat. Therefore there is a walkie talkie on the landing stage on the northern end of the lake with which you can contact Richard (+56958694897),we were charged 5000 p.p.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*2023 / Martin & Helena
From the port its again easy walking on the RR again. Drunk settler and quite agressive dogs out of his control at S km 7.2 so be careful. We slept half way to Las Rocas lake.

*Northbound and southbound hiking is feasible. However, due to the controlled private southbound access through the La Junta área, hiking in that direction is only possible with a camping reservation, or by arriving at the checkpoint before 10am. A northbound traverse may therefore be preferred. For hikers generally heading south, it is possible to take the single ticket, half-day bus-ferry-bus combination south from Cochamó to Puerto Urrutia, hike the 120km north to Cochamó, then return to Puerto Urrutia and resume the section southwards from there.

*Crossing the border is typically straightforward, however it is not permitted to camp on the 12km between the border posts. So if you arrive too late to cross, it is necessary to camp at the border post and cross the next day. In this situation, Chilean officials will stamp your passport with the next day’s date so you don’t need to wait for the office to open that morning.

*Southbound access to the popular La Junta area is controlled at a private checkpoint and only granted to those with a prior camping reservation, or those arriving before 10am and therefore early enough to make it on to the free and unmanaged El Arco campsite 23km away. Reservations for La Junta can be made online at cochamo.com, but there may not be availability and the process may take several days, so hiking this section southwards may not be possible.Therefore, an option for hikers generally heading south is to take the bus-ferry-bus combination from Cochamó across Lago Tagua Tagua and on to Puerto Urrutia, hike 120km north back to Cochamó, then take the bus-ferry-bus south again and hike the remainder of the section southwards from Puerto Urrutia.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT22 - Cochamó]]

=Images=

[[Archivo: | ]]

{| border="1" style="border-collapse:collapse"
|+'''GPT22: Cochamó'''
| colspan="4" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| GPT22: Cochamó
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Hiking
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packrafting
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Group
| colspan="2" | D: Lagos Chilenos
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Total
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|'''160.6 km'''
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|'''51 h'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''136.6 km'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|'''35 h'''
|-
| style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Region
| colspan="2" | Chile & Argentina: Los Lagos (X) & Chubut
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Trails (TL)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|137.9 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|85.9%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 20.3 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|14.9%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Start
| colspan="2" | Cochamó
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Minor Roads (MR)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|10.8 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|6.7%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 1.8 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 1.3%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Finish
| colspan="2" | Lago Puelo (Puerto)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Primary Roads (PR)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|9.7 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|6.0%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 2.8 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 2.0%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Status
| colspan="2" | Published & Verified
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Cross-Country (CC)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|2.2 km
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|1.4%
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 0.5 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 0.4%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Traversable
| colspan="2" | Dec - Apr (Maybe: Sep, Oct, Nov, May)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Bush-Bashing (BB)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packraft
| colspan="2" | Very Useful
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Ferry (FY)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|(1.8 km)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|(1.1%)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Connects to
| colspan="2" | GPT21, GPT23
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Investigation (I)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| (1.9 km)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| (1.4%)
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Options
| colspan="2" | 268 km (9 Options & Variants)
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Exploration (EXP)
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|-
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| -
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|-
|-
|
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Hiking
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Packrafting
| rowspan="4" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Total on Water
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''111.1 km'''
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| '''81.4%'''
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Attraction
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|4 (of 5)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 5 (of 5)
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| River (RI)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 62.5 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 45.7%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Difficulty
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|4 (of 5)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 4 (of 5)
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Lake (LK)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 32.4 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 23.7%
|-
| style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"|Direction
|style="background-color:#ffbfbf;"|Both ↓↑
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|Both ↓↑
| colspan="2" style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Fjord (FJ)
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"| 16.3 km
|style="background-color:#c2edfc;"|11.9%
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Comment
| colspan="7" | Hiking: Flip-Flop recommended
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Character
| colspan="7" | Packrafting: Flip-Flop recommended
|-
|style="background-color:#bfbfbf;"| Challenges
| colspan="7" | Valdivian Rain Forest, Sea Coast, Farmland, Settlers, River Packrafting, Lake Packrafting, Fjord Packrafting, Partly Overrun
|}

[[File:profile GPT22.PNG|frame|center|Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route (2019)]]

[[File:profile GPT22-p.PNG|frame|center|Elevation Profile of Regular Hiking Route (2019)]]

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[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT20 (Volcan Antillanca)

2025-01-20T14:28:03Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT21 (Lago Todos Los Santos)

2025-01-20T11:17:05Z

Mokrac: /* Season 2024/25 */