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GPT10 (Laguna El Barco)

2025-02-05T16:07:01Z

Juliasbrain: /* Season 2024/25 */

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=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2024-01-31 to 2024-02-03 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Chris & Julia'''

Beautiful araucarias (and yummi piñones), pretty easy trail, Laguna El Barco less romantic and more overcrowded than expected but nice food! No snow, no fords worth mentioning. Also possible in less time.

Day 1: started after resupplying in Trapa Trapa (only cookies) in the afternoon. Camped at [S 37° 45' 18.08" W 071° 17' 01.75"] ~6km (first possible camping spot with water and flat ground). A lot of arieros passing.

Day 2: A lot of puestos. Last water at 14.5km. Trail to the pass is very beautiful, stunning araucarias. We also harvested some low hanging piñones. We reached two by hand (twisting, not pulling, worked for us). For another we used a rope stretched between two long branches. A bit tricky, but it worked. They are not ripe yet, but they taste good raw and even better roasted. We camped at Camp {10-d} [0.1/1658] to avoid walking 19km without water. The Laguna there is really just a dirty pond, we spend hours (!) filtering water for two people with our befree, would not recommend sleeping there.

Day 3: Nice and easy trail. We followed a wrong trail at [S 37° 56' 01.04" W 071° 18' 15.57"] for ~2.5 km. At Laguna El Barco we had to pay 8000 CPL per person for camping (has bathrooms + showers). It was pretty crowded (guess because of weekend?). But there were 3 small stands with nice food (Tortillas, Sopaipillas, Completos, some meet stuff,
Softdrinks, & Mote con huesillo -> you should try, super nice chilean summerdrink).

Day 4: Following the trail there is a nice Camp at the Laguna after the official campsite if you prefere a more private spot (we would have camped there if we had known). Met Tobi + Mara from Germany (Viele Grüße :D!). Hitched directly to Ralco from the road. From Ralco there are buses to Los Angeles (at least every 2hours).

*''' 2024-01-29 to 2024-01-30 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH 10E+RR / Dorota Szparaga '''
Day1: A lot of puestos on part till 14.5 km of RR. I had some really interesting talks about the Mapuche conflict and war between Russia and Ukraine. All people were friendly. Camp at Laguna Liay taking OH 10C - easy to find. After that, one woman said to me that near Laguna there is a path where crossed thieves with stolen cows from Guallalli. Very nice and quiet place.

Day2: I came back to the trail tracking back and found a shortcut. Took water from the lake for the whole day. I had a strange case near Laguna in the forest. A big bird tried to attack me. The plateau is amazing. Descending to Laguna Barco at 32.1/1296 there is a puesto and a gate. I decided not to go through camping at Laguna Barco, as there were a lot of people there. Took variant 10E on MR. At km 6.0 of this variant it is possible to buy soft drinks and ice creams. Night at Guallalli at minishop 11 (0.1/951) fideos, sweets, soft drinks. Bed, breakfast,dinner 30000 CLP. Very nice place. In the evening I had a really interesting talk about the Mapuche and animals. This family is not Mapuche. There is a good net here, Entel.

*''' 2025-Jan-23 to 2025-Jan-26 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, 10-C, 10-E / Janboro '''

I combined GPT 09, 10 and 11 and took 6,5 days in total.

Highlights: Stunning Araucaria forests, encounters with the Pehuenche people living there, Laguna de Liay, puma tracks and puma stories.

Challenges: No water on the plateau. The creek at S 37°54.077' W 71°18.470' has dried out already by this time of the year.

I had lots of friendly encounters with the native Pehuenche and some not so friendly ones with their dogs. I’ve made it a habit to greet people in their language (mari mari), then approach them and introduce myself in Spanish with my name and a handshake. This led to a couple of interesting, informative and friendly conversations with lots of mutual learning.

Day 1

Started in the evening in Trapa Trapa and camped at [7.1/1181], where I met Elias, the owner of this land. He told me a lot about Pehuenche history, his hard but also beautiful and tranquil life in the mountains and about other mochileros who camped on his land.

Day 2

Started late because of hip pain. Higher up the valley two people independently from each other told me that they frequently see pumas (“leones”) on the edge of the plateau, one told me he has sheep “cuando no los comen los leones”, asked me if I had a revolver to defend myself, then reassured me pumas don’t attack people unless feeling cornered or protecting their offspring. One Pehuenche asked me how I know the way. I showed him my GPS device and showed him the track. He was a bit astonished but didn’t suspect any commercial exploitation as had happened previously according to the manual.

I shared Volkers feeling of awe when I saw the group of Araucarias right before the ascent to the plateau. It’s simply beautiful. Took a long food and coffee break there and ascended to Laguna Liay. On the way up, the path is partly heavily overgrown and at times difficult to find between other paths.

Up there I found myself in a fairytale forest in the evening light. I hashed my first glimpse of Laguna Liay shortly before sunset and it was mesmerizing. When looking for the way down to the laguna I lost the path and did some heavy CC BB but after a couple of minutes decided this can’t be the right way, double checked my location using the GPS and found the correct path. Still overgrown, but recognizable and easy to walk.

Camped close to the spot indicated by Nimrod & Tamar. Pure beauty and tranquility!

Day 3

Purified and packed enough water for the day and then continued my ascent to the and way over the plateau. Shortly before the intersection X {10} [17.7/1676] I discovered my first puma tracks.

Checked the little creek at S 37°54.077' W 71°18.470': It has dried out, so the last chance to fill up water before the plateau is at Laguna de Liay (as described in the manual).

At a rock close by I took a siesta/food/coffee break. Lorenzo, a Pehuenche in his sixties, came up from the valley in his horse with three dogs, and had them drive his cattle downhill. He then turned around, rode towards me and offered to carry my backpack on his horse all the way down to Laguna del Barco. I was amazed by this generous offer, but still wanted to carry it myself, so I thanked him many times but declined. Later met him next to his house at X {10} [32.1/1296], where we took photos together and exchanged numbers.

Camped at Laguna de Barco and filled my hungry stomach with a churrasco, a huge serving of French fries, a fruit shake and a Coca Cola. The restaurant closes around 21 opens at 8 in the morning.

Day 4

Bought a sopaipillita (similar to the hungarian lángos) and two tortilla breads and took the variant 10-E to Guallalí. Bad decision because 10-E seems to be the only way to get from and to Laguna de Barco by car, so I got to eat a lot of dust. Good decision, because I got offered a ride a couple of times (politely declined) and one passing driver gifted me cookies and fruits (gratefully accepted). There’s also a house where they sell ice cream. I asked a couple of people with chicken on their yards, if they sell eggs. None had any because most hens don’t lay that time of the year due to the heat as I learned later at the Guallalí shop. In Guallalí, shortly before the police station, I got invited for a coffee, soft drink, tortilla bread with butter and a friendly and very interested conversation with the elder couple who lives there and their family from Los Ángeles. When I left, they also gifted me cookies.

Bought a can of tuna and a pack of tomato sauce at the shop in Guallalí and continued to GPT11.

'''2025-Jan-18 to 2025-Jan-20 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, OH10C+D (Laguna Liay) / Nimrod & Tamar'''

1st day:
After buying some supplies from a family we started hiking up the valley.
There were some unmarked puestos and tons of nice places for camp.
We asked permission from the family in a puesto to camp in their area and camped at ().

2nd day:
Last water point is near puesto [14.5/1297]. Next water point is near Laguna El Barco on RR or Laguna Liay.

There was a trail crossing at approx (-37.83314, -71.27040). We didn't notice it because the trail which is not on the files is much more clear, and walked on it for 200 meters until we felt something is wrong, and turned back. It might be easier trail up.

OH (10-C) until approx 1 km is partly easy CC because of the fire. From 1 km to 2.1 the trail has changed but it was easy to follow.

TL(10-D) does not exist and was hard BB so we skipped it. There might be another trail going down to the Laguna but we didn't look for it.

Camp {10-d} [0.1/1658] is really poor in comparison to the lagoon beach. It was a dirty pond with a lot of cows around. So we hiked back and camped on the beach at (-37.83347, -71.28245).
Had afternoon swim and really nice view!

3rd day:
Easy trails until laguna El Barco. We harvested low hanging piñones we found at (-37.84210, -71.27454).
We recommend bringing a 15 meters cord. We had only 4 meters. The piñones were not ripe yet but were sweet, and could be eaten fresh without roasting.

At Laguna El Barco we had to pay 1000 clp per person only for entrance. There was a small stand which sold fresh tortillas and some junk food. We had a Churrasca, coke, and ice cream 😋.

We discovered that the bus to Los Angeles departs Gulalli at 5:30 so we put an effort to get there before darkness.
When it was completely dark we saw a bus parking in a yard, 1 km before Gulalli! Happy and excited we discovered it was the driver's house, which let us camp in his garden and take a hot shower in his home.

The first bus stop is at the police station and the ride takes approx 5 hours and cost us 3500 clp per person.

* ''' 2025-JAN-09 to 2025-JAN-10 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Alex '''
Found an excellent campsite: S37° 46.967' W71° 16.896', right on the riverbank and free of cow manure. The river pocket was teeming with trout during the evening feed. A small fly or tenkara gear is recommended for fishing.

* ''' 2024-DEC-24 > 25 / 1,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 3/5
| Difficulté : 1/5
| Danger : aucun

Il restait un peu de neige alors j'ai trouvé de l'eau facilement.
Juste avant le Laguna El Barco il y a un camping 5000CLP/nuit pour emplacement, douche glacée, eau potable, électricité et poubelle. J'y suis allé car c'etait marqué qu'il etait interdit de camper près du lac...

*'''2024-DEC-22 to 2024-DEC-23 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

A straightforward stage dominated by a relatively flat plateau with araucarias. A highlight of the journey was swimming in Laguna El Barco. We set off from Trapa Trapa in the late afternoon along a pleasant gravel road, carrying food for two days. After the ford [9.5/1171], the trail continues through a beautiful and wide river valley, where several puestos are located. We camped at a nice spot, Camp [14.1/1269], under the araucarias. There, we each collected 3 liters of water, as there was none on the plateau, except for one location (-37.90128, -71.30783), where there was a small stream that was not marked in the track files. It’s possible that this stream could be dry during peak summer.

The ascent to the plateau was taken via a more well-trodden and gradual path (approximately 300 meters longer than in the track files, but more frequently used). The plateau itself is a paradise of araucarias with views of Volcán Callaqui. After descending to Laguna El Barco, we first paid 1000 CLP per person for entry at point Lake, Camp [32.9/1292], and then enjoyed a pleasant picnic by the lake while swimming. It’s a beautiful lake.

The route to Guallalí mostly follows a pleasant MR, although it can be somewhat monotonous at times. Upon arriving in Guallalí, we stocked up on supplies for two days for the GPT11 stage at a small shop, Shop {11} [0.1/951] (Mini Shop). They had pasta, rice, tuna, jurel, cookies, and soft drinks.

'''2024-Dec-16 to 2024-Dec-18 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Sean & Neele'''

Not much to say for this section it's pretty straight forward. We did it in a relaxed 2.5 days to avoid spending the night in Trapa Trapa but its easily doable in 2.

25.2km water - there was a small stream flowing well here. Could have saved us carrying so much water to camp up on the plateau.

Resupplied at the red shop (S 37.42745, W 71.15386) in trapa trapa, they had ramen cookies, chocolate etc. She also sold us a big loaf of bread. Not great for a full resupply but enough for us to top up for a few days.

Continued on to 9

*'''24-12-11 - 24-12-12/ 2 days/ SOBO / RR/ Volker'''
A section of beauty and peace
There are few technical things to say about this section, perhaps this: on the way from the valley up to the pass use your device more often than you might feel it is necessary. There are many trails and yours is often not the one you see in front of you, but the overgrown or blocked by a broken tree to your right or left.
The moment you arrive at the first Araucaria trees (though some on the way down to Trapa Trapa on gpt09) is just overwhelming. Camped at Laguna Liay, when I arrived there, I just didn’t want to leave this place.
Day 2: After the short first day, this one promised to become a long one. The plateau is just breathtaking, even after 08+09 the days before. At Laguna El Barco no food, no wifi, but a great opportunity to cool down in the lake. Some km later on RR the MR (good to walk, few rubble, shadow) passes a house, the sheep ran away from me, a lamb left behind, I draw the attention of a woman to the lamb - and was invited for lunch with that very nice „spanish“ (not Pehuenche) family.
Arrived at Guallali at 6.30 p.m., presented at the carabineros (very friendly!), the officer brought me to the „shop“, which is hidden in a garden house (don‘t expect any meaningful resupply).
Camped not far, to the right of RR11, in a small valley beyond some Eucalyptus and Araucaria trees (river not far, but deep down). Two women passed by, first sceptical, then offered to join them and get some bred (declined).

*'''3Dec2024 - 5dec2024 / hiking SOBO / RR -varC - RR / 2 days / Clara'''

The ascent and descent of the plateau are awesome, full of araucaria trees and beautiful landscapes of the montains around. Sad that I've to hurry because of bad weather comming.
Fords : easy
Snow : big snow fields from about 1700m alt but easy to cross.
Water : still full on the plateau at this period.
Navigation : often many paths but easy to find the good one with the GPS. A bit more difficult to follow on the ascent after puesto at 14.5. And also around the pass cause the path often goes under the snow fields so needed more gps to stay in the good direction.
Var C : the lake is really nice. Made it with not so much bushbashing by staying closest as possible to the tracks, gps in hand at least at the begining.
Camp : around 8km (water) and camping at laguna el barco was open (5000 CLP/pers/night)

Arrive in Guallali before the rain :
Eat and sleep at the point mini-market with Romina and her family.
30kCLP for bed + lunch + dinner + breakfast.
Mini market : pasta, soups.

Entel phone coverage.

2024-Nov-26 to 2024-Nov-28 / 2.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - C, D / Karin

Camp: camp near laguna Liay (km0.1 var D) / Campamento Laguna El Barque (km32.9)

The MR/trail is easy to follow, except for the ascent after puesto km14.5, where the trail is no well visible. All along the valley from Trapa Trapa to the late puesto were a lot of small streams running over the road. Some were easy to cross without getting wet feet, others were a bit bigger, but never more than mid-calf.

From an altitude of 1760m was still snow. The snow on the pass and the plateau was managable, but slows down quite a bit and makes navigation more challenging. This on a distance of about 8km.

As there is still snow, there is a lot of water. Even on the plateau were a few streams, which will probably dry out during summer.

The camping at the Laguna El Barque was still closed. I asked two men how were working on the cabañas if I could pit up the tent anyways. This was not a problem and they did not charge me for this. At the camping were sanitary instalations, tables...

I arrived Guallalí at 12hrs. Because of the snow, I decided to go to Los Angeles. The carabineros station was empty, so I went to the minishop (gpt 11 km0.1) and asked when the buses leave. The owner told me that there is only one bus everyday at 5.30 am. But I could try to hichhike. While waiting, two locals came by and told me that in the next community (Chenqueco) are more cars going to/in direction of Ralco and that from there I would be more lucky.
About 5min later a car drove by and took me to this community. From there I hichhiked again.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-03-18 to 2024-03-19 // 1,5 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR // Quentin Clavel'''

I was a bit anxious on that section because of a big fire on the valley of the vokcan Copahue. Everything was under the steam all around, and with a big smell of fire. Few helicopters passed, and I was seriously questioning myself to continue or not.

Fortunately for me the track change of the valley to reach the beautiful Laguna El Barco.

It was late on the season so there were absolutely no one there. But In season that would be a great camp spot (event if it's probably popular and not so quiet as there's a lot of camping places).

Fill your water at the bottom of the valley because when you'll reach the plateau you'll have no water at all, until you go down to the valley.

Plateau is pretty nice, met a lot of people up there harvesting piñones. Easy horse track to follow. Ground is sandy and very steamy on the way down. Then you arrive on a valley with lot of water and lor of arrieros, great to chat with some of those that are leaving around there.

I crossed the Ford {10} [9.5/1171] then camo just after that. Had a great and quiet night there, happy to clean myself after a very dusty day, but I reckon it's gonna be like that for few sections further north aha !

Then easy track, gravel and road. No more ford to cross. Until the tiny trapa trapa.

Locals sent me to a kiosco, who Is situated very close to the point X {10} [0.0+0.3/937]. There's a ringtone, then a girl came to open the kiosco for a small resupply (tuna, fideos, chips and sweetness like candies, biscuits, and other stuff with a packaging of 90's that seems to be very bad for your body aha, but took it anyway).

* '''2024-03-25 to 2024-03-29 / 5 days / SOBO / RR + new route + Copahue summit opt 2. + opt 1 down Copahue + Nathalie/Tomas new route + gpt11 nobo back to Guallalí / Marilyne'''

Day 1 - Started in Trapa Trapa around 15:30 and walked to right before camp 7.1. Hid in the forest to camp instead of using the nice grassy area as a lot of people on horses were using the trail.

Day 2 - Felt worried about the multiple puesto dogs and the aggressive person along the RR and option 1 so decided to try a new route to eventually rejoin GPT option 2, the trail to the summit of Copahue (pronounced Copaway). Went cross country going South from my 7.1 camp for a while until I started climbing East. Eventually joined a trail that seemed to get good use. There is probably no need to go cross country if you find the start of that trail… Left the trail at -37.78784, -71.25114 and went CC again on the plateau. Met a couple harvesting piñones and chatted with them. As I was leaving, their dog nipped my ankle… so much for avoiding dogs. Stopped by Laguna Negra (-37.81527, -71.21972) for lunch and water. Camped by a small lake at -37.83042, -71.20250. Beautiful views around that area. There were patches of old (last year’s) and new (last week’s) snow. In the evening, I went to investigate a direct route to Copahue up the peak at -37.83807, -71.20001, but felt that it was a little too exposed for me and my big backpack.

Day 3 - Took a slightly lower route on the West side of previously mentioned peak to Copahue from my campsite which worked great. Water at -37.83722, -71.20762 and also further depending on the snow quantity. Rejoined the marked OSM trail up to Copahue at around 2,750 meters of elevation, where I left most of my gear and went to the summit. The hike down from the volcano was very slow going, I followed the OSM route mostly but at times I was in between the GPT line and the OSM line. Went to check out the hot springs, which looked gross to me. Camped at -37.89625, -71.16599, on the road leading to Argentina.

Day 4 - I wanted to try the new option that Nathalie and Tomas have posted below for this section, so I followed the road to Argentina up to the valley that parallels the border and made my way to the ridge. Views from the ridge are spectacular and I enjoyed that part very much, following the border at first and ending up here: -37.95833, -71.11928. Difficulties came when I tried to come down the ridge following the route posted on FB. I backed out of the proposed “best route” as it was too exposed and scrambling-like for my liking. I ended up going down the steep talus slope for a while, traversing as Natalie described and ended up doing a fair amount of unpleasant bush-bashing to reach the trail at the bottom of the valley. There are probably better routes than the one I took though, I didn’t have the opportunity to study the satellite imagery very well before going :-). Looking back I should have walked in the creek bed earlier rather than fight with all the bamboo. Ended up with a fair amount of scratches and ripped pants. Camped shortly after I found the trail in the valley.

Day 5 - Used GPT11 NOBO to reach Guallalí. Stopped at the hot springs (6.6km/991) on the way to clean up a little. It was a holiday in Chile, Good Friday, and I met two groups of people from the city that were driving around this remote road for fun. Reached Guallalí and went to the carabineros station to ask about camp possibilities. They mentioned a metal bridge about 3 kilometers away but not in the direction that I wanted to go (Ralco). I hung out close to the bus stop thinking about what I would do and eventually two of them came out to talk to me again. They said that they have to be careful with strangers as they are the police and never know people’s intentions but that they’d like to invite me to have some of the lunch they had made. They also let me camp next to the station to catch the 5.30am bus the next morning after checking my passport. I think that the fact that I was a solo woman helped. As I learned from our discussion, new police officers get assigned to this station every month and stay there for the full month, so this might not be offered again in the future.

* '''2024-03-26 to 2024-03-28 / 2 days? / NOBO / RR / Fangwen + Tobi'''

Combined with Sections 10/11 (~8 days, relaxed). See section 12 for our tips on pinones

Nothing to add that's not described below, except we found the native Pehuenche people friendly. We think it helps to great them in their language (Mari mari - hello; Chaltu may - thank you). This you can find with a bit of digging online. Would love to have interacted with them more - they seem friendlier up the valley at the puestos (not in trappa trappa).

No luck finding asado in this time of year due to touristic things shutting down (including campsite at Lago El Barco, completely deserted).

There is no bus out of Trappa on holidays, and didn't find anything but 2 types of cookies and ice cream at resupply point there. You can ask the locals to drive you (for a fee) - they referred to it as "Fleeta"(?)

* '''2024-Mar-8 to 2024-Mar-11 / 2.5 days / SOBO / RR B / Matthias de Austria'''

No snowfields, all fordings very easy, plenty of (unmarked) water except from Puesto RR 14.5km (one stream a few hundred meters afterwards last water) to shortly before Laguna El Barco. Tabanos: 2

The valley south of Trapa-Trapa is first narrow but the open ups to a wide valley with a lot of puestos, mostly inhabited, which means a lot of dogs and cows, horses, sheep around. All marked campsites are completely full of animal feces, every single decimeter is covered. I camped around -37.78551,-71.27975 on sand next to the river, sandy and stony places are the only one without extrem amounts of shit. Stayed there another day just sleeping in the tent bc of all day raining. Next camp was a nice weather camp with great views but no water at -37.89069,-71.30189. Flat spot, no shit, very quiet, some boulders and bushes.

RR out of the valley up to thea area of Laguna Liay was a bit tricky. Seems part of RR are not in use anymore and overgrown ( -37.83346,-71.2705 ). I just followed the horse tracks which later went back to RR. it seems there are different paths going up.

Lake, camp 32.9km: camping 8000, picknick 5000. But nobody at the gate, so I just walk in, swimm a little and try to open my first Araucaria seed cone I harvested an hour before. Shortly before I leave someone asks if I paid the entry. Sorry bro, not going to pay 5000 for sitting 30min on a bench, so I just don't understand spanish at all until he gives up.
Next to Laguna El Barco a wildfire puts a lot of smoke on the water, but no fire in the sky. 2 helicopters pour water on it the whole day. RR southeast of the Laguna was not affected, the fire (actually only lots of smoke) was on the other side of the valley about 1km away.

Rio Lomin had very brown-yellow water, but there are a few small clean unmarked streams further south RR.

Guallali tiny shop, no sign, just go over the little wooden bridge after the police and shortly before the school. Dog alarms child, child alarms mother. Mother opens shop. Mostly cola and chips, ice cream, some cookies, 3 packs of noodles and (worst quality) toilet paper.

Some really nice views at the waterless part, first massive amount of Araucaria trees, Laguna El Barco is kinda nice too, finally a lake with trees around! Lots of boring road walking at the beginnig and more so at the end of section with basically no traffic.

* '''2024 Feb 28 to Feb 29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

We combined sections 09 and 10 into 5 days of hiking. Beautiful sections with a diversity of landscapes: volcano, meadows, puestos...

Day 0: Trapa Trapa- Camp -37.76398, -71.28171

On our last day of the previous section, we hiked the first 7 km to this camp. Great bivouac spot not to be missed, next to a puesto with grass, water, horses and welcoming vegetation.

Day 1: Camp -37.76398, -71.28171 - Laguna El Barco:

Truly magnificent scenery and lots of puestos. The climb is pleasant and in the shade. As soon as you cross a river, it's easy (maximum knee-deep).
From laguna Liay to laguna el barco, NO WATER. We initially wanted to camp between the two, but were forced to push on to laguna el barco to get water. The scenery is really beautiful and easy to walk on the plateau, and the aracaunia trees give it a unique atmosphere.
Pay camping at el barco (8,000 pesos per person) with beach and friendly staff.)

Day 2: Laguna el barco - Guallali

A short day's descent. We stop at the bus stop indicated in the waypoints at 3pm. Only one bus a day from Guallali to Los Angeles at 5:30 am.
We were lucky and hitchhiked to Ralco.

* '''2024 Feb 13 to Feb 18 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var C, Var D, some off GPT track / Michael and Kasia '''

We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.

TLDR: beautiful section with some very impressive araucaria forests. Technically easy but navigationally a little challenging due to so many trails branching everywhere. Laguna Liay is definitely worth visiting.

Day 1 - Feb 13

After finishing our resupply in Trappa Trappa, we started on RR. The road was fully exposed until we got up a ways into the forest. After that I had to watch the GPS fairly closely. As has been noted previously, the horse trails fork off in different directions, sometimes rejoining and sometimes not. The trail was pretty dusty, but the forest was beautiful. There was very little water access for quite awhile. We arrived at the camp point at km 7.1 with the Mapuche family. No one was at the house so we started looking around. I found Elías in another part of the property. He was very kind and said we were welcome to camp. He showed us a nice spot near a creek set away from the road. We had initially thought to camp more in the open area but he said that the road gets a lot of traffic in the night and the are some “mala gente” that pass through, so the spot he showed us was safer.

Day 2 - Feb 14

We started hiking early and the morning light on the landscape was absolutely beautiful. We stopped after the first ford, mid calf with little current, to have coffee and enjoy the area. We continued on passing a lot of puestos. Many seemed abandoned or falling apart, though there were people at several of them. We waved and they waved back, but they were fairly far from the road so we didn't go over to talk. We met our first other GPT hikers, Christof and Alex (hi guys! We hope you got the roasted chicken in Antuco!) We crossed the second ford, just under the knee, and had lunch and a nap and then started up to the pass. The path was mostly in forest, and though steep, we didn't find it difficult. We started on Var C to Laguna Liay sticking more to the OSM track than the GPT track. We got down to the lake and wanted to go all the way around to the north side, but part way up the trail started heading up to the plateau. We returned to the bottom and tried to walk in the water counterclockwise around the lake, but after only about 50 m there was a section where I was sinking deep into mud. We walked back to the south side beach and then walked the beach clockwise to get to the north side. There were a few fallen trees to climb over, but otherwise we had no issues going that way. On the north side there was a fairly sizable sand beach with a fire ring. We camped there.

Day 3 - Feb 15

We took a rest day at the lake. The atmosphere at the lake was so peaceful and the scenery was so beautiful. Not one person passed through that day, and it felt really amazing to have such a quiet, serene and beautiful place all to ourselves. It got hot during the afternoon so we retreated up into the woods a bit to get some shade. In the late afternoon I went to scout Var D for the next day. There isn't a full trail there really, but from the beach looking uphill I could see a brown stripe going up. It was a short BB to get to it and then a steep up. The trail forked after maybe 50 m. I first went left, but after a while it was all dead ends and started to lose elevation. I went back and tried the right fork with a combination BB/CC and was finally able to connect to a path. From there it was easy to get up to the plateau and then to the other marked campsite which was near a pond that had mostly evaporated for the season.

Day 4 - Feb 16

We started early to get over the pass before it got hot. We took the scouted approximate Var D up and then connected in with RR. The pass was easy and on the far side there was an incredible monkey puzzle forest. As noted there was no water. We took the OSM track up just before the descent to Laguna El Barco for the lookout. The trail down to Laguna El Barco was somewhat steep but easy to follow. At the bottom it passes through a puesto on the way to the road. The guy there also rents camping sites. The El Barco campground is somewhat chaotically managed. We arrived on a Friday and it was packed with vacationing Chilenos. Posted price was 5.000 pp for the picnic area day use and 8.000 pp for camping. They offered 6.000 pp without a table, which we took. It turns out that that is for essentially an unused parking spot next to the road. We would have left, but it was too late to go anywhere else. A very nice couple happened by as we were setting up and said they were about to leave and we could have their spot which had a table and was away from the road. We thanked them and moved up. The shop seems not to be operating this year. The small building it was in was empty and the door was just hanging open. There were two groups selling food, one at the entrance selling tortillla, a fairly large and dense bread cooked directly in the ash in the fire for 2.000 each, some smaller pan amasado, sopaipillas 500 each, a fried dessert bread dusted in powdered sugar 3 for 1.000, and churasco for 4.000. They also had sodas, 1.200 for a 591 ml bottle. The other group was at a camp just past the lower bathrooms, and two of them walked around the campground periodically as well. They had tortilla 2.000 each, sopaipillas 2 for 1.000, and some kind of tea. The second place had our favorite tortillas, we ate several of them. The churrasco was a disappointment. I was thinking Bolivian churasco which is just grilled meat. These were sandwiches with a couple thin strips of meat simmered in liquid in a frying pan and then put on huge breads with a slice of tomato, a bit of lettuce and some mayo. They were okay, but not what I had expected.

Day 5 - Feb 17

We left late and hiked RR. On the other side is another much smaller and more laid back campground. It is run by the couple that lives there. Price was 6.000 pp with a table. They had a toilet and sinks, no shower. They sold tortillas on request, 2.000 each, but the woman, Clementina, makes them when she's making their food, so it can be awhile. We bought 5 of them and they were larger than the ones in the campground. Wrapped in paper towels and kept in plastic bags, these lasted us almost 5 days.

Day 6 - Feb 18

We continued on RR with the intention to head to Guallalí. Along the way we meet a Mapuche arriero, Hector, at his pesto (-37.95912, -71.26119). If you pass by there and he is around, definitely make some time to talk with him. He was incredibly kind and generous, offered us coffee, took us to his animal corral to pet the goats, told us about the political structure in the Mapuche comunidades, and even showed us some of the medicinal plants in the area. He also sells goats and sheep and does asados, but we didn't ask the price. We were about to leave when a friend of his arrived to pick something up for a really important Mapuche ceremony that was finishing that day. His friend gave us a ride, which took us off the GPT track a bit, but dropped us very near a shop at (-38.01007, -71.30695) run by a woman named Maria that actually had a good selection of stuff. We bought pasta, a queso mantecoso from the region that lasted 3 days, her last can of Nescafé, some tomatoes and cucumbers, Zukos, and cookies. She also had eggs, frozen meat, sodas, beer, yogurt, a few other types of cheese, and various other things. Prices were very reasonable. She had a small table and a bench outside the shop and let us stay there to have lunch and repack. More than a dozen cars stopped by to buy things while we were there, so it seems like a pretty popular spot. From there we walked on the highway towards Comunidad Vilcuncura and on towards Comunidad Chenqueco. We passed one other shop at (-38.01473, -71.31626) that looked sizable and had a range of things, though we didn't buy anything there. In Comunidad Chenqenco we connected with GPT11 Opt 5A.

* '''2024-Feb-13 to 2024-Feb-14 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH E / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [0.0-21.9]

Both Fords are easy below knee + the RR crosses a few more streams during the first 14 km. There is no water on RR after the Ford at km 14.1 until km 32.1.

Day 2: RR [21.9-32.1] + OH10-E + RR [45.1-47.5]

At km 32.1 (right before the start of OH10-E is a creek and some tables around. I think it belongs to a campsite there, but nobody cared that I did a break there. OH10-E is a big dirtroad with no water until km 8.4. I bought some cookies in the mini shop in Guallali + they allowed me to charge my power bank. After that I continued with section 11.

* '''2024-Feb-12 to 2024-Feb-14 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / Guallali - Trapa-Trapa / RR + Option D/ Alex & Christophe'''

It was a nice and easy section. For us, the Laguna Liay would deserve to be on RR. It was one of the most beautiful and peaceful campspot we had this season.

We also camped on the official campground at Laguna El barco. It was still 8000 CLP pp and the place was crowded with all the Chileans on holiday. The beach is nice but the campground is really dusty (as most of the section). There were also two families selling food (tortillas, sopaipillas and some other things).

By the way, there is no more snow on the plateau so take plenty of water to cover the distance between Lago El Barco and Laguna Liay.

* '''2024-Jan-14 to 2024-Jan-16 / 2,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Hannes'''

From Trapa Trapa I went in this long valley, it is pretty packed with puestos. Had to check a few times the GPS in there, was quite often on a wrong trail. Many puestos create their own trail network…Went up to Laguna Liay and camped directly at the shore. I figured out two reachable beaches where you can put on one or two tents, one beach at the NW-shore, the other SE-shore. I camped at the second. Option 10D brings you down to it, but actually I could not find a real trail. This Laguna is just an amazing place, for me there was not just silence but peace! The special echo in this place has an effect. Next day I went to Laguna El Barco, for camping you have to pay. A huge laguna, beautiful, but with a check in and all the rules which apply. I do not like this. I went further and a few km before Guallalí I asked a Settler if I could sleep on his Eukalyptus plantation. The 3rd day I walked to Guallalí and stocked up for GPT 11 in the minimarket. For cigarettes I went to a house at -38.050512, -71,272100. There is a woman who sells tobacco and if you kindly ask her she might sell you one of her homemade bread loafs. Ask for the house of Cololo.

* '''2024-Jan-04 to 2024-Jan-05 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {10-C} - RR - {10-E} - RR / Lilian'''

After have a nice breakfast with the lovely family, i keep going south.

Km0 - km13.6 : easy walking, easy to follow.

Km13.6 : junction of RR and {10-01}.

Ford[14.1/1269] : if you are not decided go to {10-C} or visit Laguna Liay (lake), it is the last water until km33 Laguna El Barco ( or a stream just before this lake ).

Km14.47 : climb up start, the entrance is beside the corner of wooden fence.

Km15.65 : a sharp turning, after here trail become very overgrown, until km15.9. At km15.65 and km15.9, i both saw a clear path going to east, I'm not sure is it a new reroute by local and are they connect or not.

Km16.1 : junction of RR and {10-C} , I don't decide go for walk around the whole lake, but just want to visit it take a look, and collect some water.

{10-C} km0.33 : (-37.83379, -71.27817) a sandy slope steep going down, the trail to Laguna Liay (lake) is here, you can see some trail trace on the sandy slope. A little overgrown and sometimes fallen tree block your way, but mostly you can step over them. About 10min you will arrive a sandy beach (-37.83326, -71.28031) at km0.5. Not a camping spot, but here have some big trees fell in the lake, easy walking on them go to the lake for collecting better water. Good view point of Laguna Liay with Volcán Callaqui, i also saw some beautiful ducks with red brown body and blue beak swimming here!

After collecting water and a long nap, i decided back to RR, i took another trail on the sandy slope that closer to lake side (not shown on map), it is easy to follow and easy walk, lastly join RR at km16.5.

RR Km16.9 : what a beautiful grassland! Easy trail start, enjoy the land scape changing and Araucaria forest. I love this area!

Pass RR [20.6/1850] : large flat area ( Most of the section10 is flat area), nice view point of Volcán Callaqui! Also the first view ( for SOBO) of Volcán Tolhuaca!

Km26.6 : left side, Volcán Copahue!

Km31.4 : pass, from dirt road to trail going down, but before going down, there is a side trail to south for climbing up a small hill, just distance 500m and climb up 70m, go for it! Excellent view point of Laguna El Barco, Volcán Callaqui, Volcán Copahue and Volcán Lonquimay( Sierra Nevada behind it?) !

X[31.2/1469] : a campground with picnic table ( i think it is a paid area because a sign at front gate but didn't see anyone when i passed there) and a stream flowing nice with clear water just before it. If you don't decide go to Laguna El Barco for collecting water, it is the only water until Guallalí.

Because the weather becomes worse, very windy and cloudy, also the forecast said it maybe rain at afternoon, so i took {10-E}, shorter the distance rush to Guallalí.

Bus {10-E} [8.4/938] didn't find the shop that Martin & Helena said (close to Bus 10-E mark.) I asked the house owner beside the bus stop, and she said no shop there. I saw a sign beside the bus stop is erased away, also a banner looks like said "selling thing" already being discarded on the ground, so maybe the shop is closed no more? ( I'm not sure).

{10-E} km10.0 rejoin RR.

RR km46.05 : look like a very old shop, I saw a sign for candy and cigarettes, but the house is broken and no people there any more.

Shop {11} [0.1/951] : No sign for shop, it is a beautiful looking wooden house, cross a tiny wooden bridge to their front gate. A little better stock than i think before, more than the shop at Trapa Trapa and almost the same as Los Álamos. Pastas, rice, some canned food, biscuits, drinks and chips. Not picky and i resupply for 3 days food here. I asked for accommodation, and the female owner said can stay in their house, 30000 CLP for a single room(4 beds) with light, quilt and electric charger, shower(cold) with shampoo, dinner and breakfast, maybe can use their washer for laundry, but finally i use my hand for washing them, because my clothes are too dusty and don't want to pollut their machine. It has a feeling look like guesthouse at some tourist routes in Nepal, but of course the one in Nepal are much commercial.

Dinner is delicious for goat and rice! Although not much enough for hiker hunger (never enough), but it is one of the best meal i eaten in Chile so far. They are super friendly, i'm very happy staying here with them!

I saw a bus arrive Shop {11} [0.1/951] on friday 6pm, but I don't know where it come from.

(-38.04741, -71.27506) look like is the church that Maks& Gabi said. A tree with beautiful grassland, but no good water resources nearby, the river beside it is flowing brown water, also farming and people living at upstream.

* '''2023 Dec 30 to Dec 31 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Ella'''

TLDR: beautiful secluded camping on plateau but no water. be cognizant of tensions between Pehuenche and non Indigenous people

Day 1: Trail was beautiful and mostly easy to navigate. Camped that night at around 11 km on the right side of the river, pushed back into the trees quite a bit. Chose not to camp at one of the marked campsites near the puestos because I became a bit worried about the large number of beer cans I was seeing along the way, and I didn’t meet any women at any of the puestos. Though I’m sure there’s mostly very kind people in this valley and I had no encounters that made me feel otherwise, I didn’t feel like taking my chances as a young solo woman given a few past reports on this section. However, it was a challenge to find a camping spot that felt both safely hidden and like I wasn’t on someone’s land without permission (though I probably still was) - there’s many more puestos in this valley now than appear on the waypoints, and there’s also loads of cows and horses grazing! If you find yourself in a similar position to me, I highly recommend just mustering up the energy to hike up to the plateau and camp about a kilometer in. Very nice and secluded spots up there. You would just need to bring a lot of water because there’s none until Laguna El Barco.

Day 2: Plateau was beautiful, but keep an eye on the GPS. As others have said, you have to pass through what is now a campsite with a gate just before the main road to Laguna El Barco, but no one was there so I didn’t get charged. Laguna El Barco camping was nice and lively on New Year’s eve. The store is still not set up yet, but the staff charged my devices for me. If you continue on the RR for about a km you will find the wooden sign for Entel service which did work for me. Just be aware that you have to walk by what is demarcated as a “dangerous zone” on Pehuenche land. I’m not quite sure what this means, but when I was walking to get service someone I passed warned me of it as well…

Next day I got a ride from someone leaving the campground to Ralco (2 hour drive!). Bigger market was open even when nothing else was on a national holiday (January 1) and had good options. Camped at Camping Nativo about a 30 min walk outside of town, which is close to a great river spot and has sinks, outlets and even a shower!

Given the tensions between the Pehuenche and non Indigenous people on the lands that this trail crosses, I’m curious if we, as non Indigenous hikers, should think about having a broader conversation to understand what kind of place we have (if any) in using these lands. Ideally with direct input from Pehuenche people themselves. Both for the sake of respecting the people of these lands and feeling safe as hikers.

* '''2023 Dec 22 to Dec 26 / 4,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & part Option 1 & Completely new option / Tomáš & Natalie'''

Note: Our path was of course convoluted. We walked the optional route 10-01 to Volcán Copahue last year. It is splendid and recommended for our option, but this time we opted for the RR, as we have not walked it previously. We came back to the area to find a new connection that would avoid almost 25 km of unpleasant roadwalking after Laguna El Barco. We suceeded, see below.

We followed the regular route to Laguna el Barco. The route and the Laguna are indeed very pleasant. We paid 1000 each to be able to pass through (?) and use the camping tables for lunch. The store was closed even on Saturday (Dec 23). About 300m from the lagoon, there is a sign about Entel coverage and 4g indeed works decently there. We then took the minor road to the hot spring under Volcan Copahue (elevation 1812, name Pucon Mahuida).

No cars seem to be using the road, especially the second part is quite eroded and after the hot spring it is bordering on impassable for cars. The hot spring is still nice. We then followed the road to an incredibly beautiful valley under Copahue. Few hundred metres before reaching Argentina, we left the road and shortly found a path that traversed into the valley in the south next to the border. The path petered out once we got above the bushes. It was really easy to reach the ridge and folow it (and the Argentinian border) to 37.9575000S, 71.1211474W. With snow all around on the slopes and with condors circling us, it was stunning (the ridge is mostly snow free). Made camp under the summit next to a 10m-high wall of ice for wind protection. There was no path but walking was easy, the ridge is rather flat and wide.

There are three options we explored from there on. The recommended one is the last one we explored, but here they follow in chronological order. Continuing on the ridge towards Cerro Dedo would require climbing or exposed traversing (if one dropped to Argentina, one could probably find a path to reconnect to GPT after Cerro Dedos if there ius no police in the area). Instead we went down side of the mountain roughly to here: 37.9650794S, 71.1206588W (it was steep but full of stones, so not slippery and we did not think it was dangerous). Then we started traversing (it did not feel exposed, but was a bit strenuous) until about here: 37.9792148S, 71.1245764W, from where we started going down a narrow ridge that was flanked by creeks on both sides. Again it was not dangerous and first half was good CC (like all the previous traverse), the second half was part cow trail (with cow poop), part bush bashing, but surprisingly easy and painless with long sleeeves.

At the bottom of the valley, we came out on a clearly visible trail. We went up it further into the valley, where there was a deserted puesto on a meadow under enormous araucaria trees with a magnificent views on snowy slopes full of huge waterfalls. We made camp.

In the evening, Tomáš then went to explore a scary looking ridge to reach this peak:
37.9767704S, 71.1623784W. It turned out not to be scary. The sidehill up the ridge is mostly without trees or bushes, so it is steep but good CC. Once up the ridge, one can go around the pinacles from the southern side (left facing up), occasionally using the tree branches as support - there is a little of easy climbing, but with no exposure. Then the ridge is steep and somewhat narrow but one can mostly go up only using poles and not hands. Altogether SAC 5. It was fun and pretty, but caution needs to apply. From the top, one could easily traverse north towards here: 37.9611427S, 71.1539942W.

The next day, we went up a ridge dividing the valley we slept in into two (this one: 37.9714484S, 71.1414231W). There is a trail up that branches off the main valley trail about 300 m downstream of the abandoned puesto. One goes up a slope for about 400m and then down to a ford and then up. There are a variety of cow trails with bamboo cut some time ago. It is partly bush bashing, but very easy and just a few hundred metres. Once up the steep slope, the trail is much clearer. Above the tree line, it is easy CC. Once you get up the main ridge, you can either go right to the peak we slept the days before (a walk up - no need to use hands, the rocky features can be easily skirted, SAC 3-4) or left to the coordinates that end the previous paragraph. From there one could go down to the valley in the north and either CC and ford (probably possible, but unceartain) or follow the road/path that is mapped in OSM (look it online, it was only added in late November) toward El Barco. Navigating this SOBO is much easier, we posted the GPX route of the most tricky part and a rough overall route painted over satellite image in the Facebook group and hopefully it will be included in the GPT next year [November 2024: it is in our suggstions together with a lot of exploratory options].

Going down the valley to reconnect to the GPT leading from Gaulali is easy 5 km on a clear trail. Once you hit car tracks (almost in the main valley) that will soon turn left, you can probably follow one of the trails going straight and save yourself maybe a 0.5 km detour to a puesto here: 38.0095590S, 71.1391237W. From the puesto, there is a very ugly road that was enlarged this year all the way to Guallali. Going NOBO, you reconnect to the trail going to Cerro Dedos very soon and thus almost entirely eclipsing the roadwalk. Plus our proposed new route is really pretty.

From Gaullali, there seems to be a daily bus leaving at 5.30 AM from in-front-of-the-turnoff-to-the-carabinieros-station. It goes to Ralco and then to Los Angeles. By mistake we first bought tickets to Ralco for 1300 and then to Los Angeles for 1500. It arrives in Ralco at 8:00 and stops there for 10 or so minutes. Next bigger stop is in Santa Barbara around 9:30. It arrives to Los Angels after 10:30. I think it goes back in the afternoon, possibly at 14:00, but ask at the station.

* '''2023 dec 12 - dec 14 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR + B + C + F / Frans'''

Took the bus from Ralco to Trapa Trapa, start of GPT10. 2 busses a day, 4.30 and 16.30. I was at the busstop at 4.10, but the driver probably didn't expect anyone and took a shortcut and therefore didn't pass the busstop. So if you want to take that one, walk 100m further to the crossing of the main road.
16.30 no problems, plenty of people taking that bus. Total of 2.5hrs to get to Trapa Trapa.

Missing the bus gave me time to explore Ralco a bit, plenty of shops, turist information center and a Museum about the Pewenche. Small, but worth a visit (1000 CLP).

Didn't explore anything in Trapa Trapa since I wanted to cover some gound before darkness. Did see some signs of shops tho.
Easy trail, no issues here. Ended up to camp at: Camp 10 [7.1/1181]. Got woken up by some cows and horses in the morning.

Took the route (C) along the lake, also with the intention to get some extra water for the plateau. Although there was plenty at the plateau (for now), at least 5 good streams and more small ones. All because of the melting snow, so I don't know for how long that will be in the upcoming weeks.

Walk was easy, pass is easy, some snow/ice walking but all stable. You might be taking a little caution when it starts melting more but walk around the snow is also an easy option.

I camped at the plateau, almost at the end just before you walk into the greenzone again. On the right side is a flat spot next to some trees and bushes.

Next day via Laguna el Barco, some people camping there, no one at the entry so didn't had to pay anything. Easy walk again. Took option (F) and first house on the left after crossing the bridge had a sign that they sold ice cream. Stopped there, friendly people and as they told me they will sell more stuff in the future. It also looked like that, they were constructing a store, shelves, counter everything. Just no inventory yet. Unclear when they will, at least to me with my limited Spanish.

Reached Guillali easily, had a chat with the local Cabaniero. He gave me a Entell Sim-card so I could have cell service. Stayed at Romina. Bed, dinner, breakfast 30.000 CLP.

Really nice walk all along. Easy navigation, nice views and not really demanding terrain.

* '''2023-Dec- to 2023-Dec-8 / 2,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + variant G + variant E + variant C / Yannick & Nolwenn & Jens'''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : a little bit of snow around the pass, super easy to navigate

- Camping spot : easy to find
- River crossing : easy

- Weather : Sunny

- Resupply : there is a small 'negocio' in Trapa Trapa, and you can have breakfast with a really nice family at the 'lodging and food'

- Option roads : Variant C - really nice lake, just a little bit of bushbashing to rejoin the RR

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-07 to 2023-Mar-09 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Iris, Alexis '''

After a night in Guallali, we continued on GPT10. This section is short and awesome, definitely worth hiking!

On Day 1, we decided to reach the camping of Laguna El Barco (Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292]). We managed to get two rides that shorten the day, and enjoyed an afternoon of rest in the campground (we cooked some pinones). As other as noted, the price is 8pp and the water in the shower ice cold. We were hungry for sopapillas but sadly, this late in the season, the shop was closed. Because we asked, we were able to buy tortillas (2k each) directly from the owners for the next morning. Expect heavy bread - one half is enough for a meal.

On Day 2, we hiked through the plateau. Of note, X {10} [32.1/1296] is now a gate (and a camp) and we were asked to pay 1pp for the right of way.
The plateau is easy walking with a clear trail while filled with beautiful views. Better pack some water before because we did not find any before reaching the end of the descent in the forest (RR-TL-V {10} [13.6+2.5]). We camped at Camp {10} [9.6/1175], which is in a bosquet and wind sheltered.

* '''On Day 3, we finished the section until Trapa Trapa and asked for lodging at Mirellas (Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956]). It costs 20k pp for room / dinner / breakfast (no hot water). We were told there are some "thermas" close to -37.69656, -71.29006 but when asking our way, we were told it costs 4pp to use them. It did not seem worth it so we backtracked.'''
The three shops in Trapa Trapa are located at -37.71004, -71.26861 (closed when we passed by), -37.71040, -71.26661 (had various sweets, ice cream) and -37.71234, -71.25523 (the biggest of them). However, expect limited supplies (we could not find batterias nor sunscreen for the next sections).

Not much more to say on this section. We initially planned to go on 10-01 for the Volcan, but were told it would be a day of heavy rain and thus stayed on the RR (finally, not a single drop, just a little cloudy and windy).

* '''2023-Feb-07 to 2023-Feb-10 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 01 Volcán Copahue / Natalie&Tomàš'''

The forest fire situation made planning for this extremely difficult. We packed for GPT 09-12 with volcano side trips but we had to skip 09 because of park closure and gamble on starting directly in Trapa Trapa. We took the direct bus to Trapa Trapa from Los Angeles, it was long... 5+hours and it leaves once a day at 2:15pm (Feb,2023). Although it was memorable, we think it would have been faster to bus to Ralco and try to hitch as there are "some" cars. The road condition looked as if it has been recently fixed and is being improved even more.
Arrived in Trapa Trapa at ~7:30pm and started hiking right away. Beautiful town and valley. We were going to camp at km07 but there were people staying there with dogs so we moved on to the next river crossing not great for camping (there are nicer spots just a bit further).

Day2
Easy walk towards the junction for option 01 to volcán Copahue with a long conversation and piñone testing with "Pedro" from puesto 13.7. We were lucky to hike during the season that the piñones were dropping but sadly we did not find Laureline's cellphone:(. Our plan was to summit Copahue but my stomach bug came back and we stopped very early to camp, we had a few days of excess food so this was no problem. We camped near the large creek separating 01&01a -37.83511, -71.24072. The smoke was also getting us down. There is water here obviously, but there is also a nice water source earlier here: -37.83542, -71.24258. This trail (01) is slightly overgrown and the "aggressive puesto" @ 1.2 was locked up with no one there.

Day 3
We took option 01a (BB) to the pass. Tomáš had tested it the day before to see if it was BB but there was a path. Although we found the path the day before, we both got lost in the bamboo for the first bit but luckily once you get under the canopy of the Araucarias, the trail is clear and non-bushy, actually it is really pleasant! In the forest there is water here; -37.83520, -71.23177 and a small broken down puesto here; -37.83893, -71.22434.
Out of the forest there is a beautiful grassy (and boggy) plateau with two puestos (one occupied) and lots of water (-37.84756, -71.22044). We spoke with the lady of the puesto and her 5yr old son: genuinely nice people! There is a trail from her puesto (-37.84760, -71.22095) that goes straight up East. The trail exists until you hit a waterfall-fed creek and the rocks start; -37.85161, -71.21874. from there on it is CC on grippy rocks, dirt and boulders. Last water source before the pass is not far; -37.85768, -71.21610 and would make a nice camp. Getting to this pass, although beautiful, took a long time!
At the pass we dropped our bags and followed the osm route for volcán Copahue. The osm route was better than the GPT bcs it followed a firm snow patch for a good while making walking fast. There was a good stream of snow melt on the approach (-37.86132, -71.19051) and the walk to the summit was easy, some loose little boulders. The summit was well worth it as the crater of Copahue is very impressive; a large broken glacier with a beautiful glacier lake. We think apart from our climb of Azul it was the nicest volcano so far.
The way down to Termas de Pucon Mahuida was very slow going. Followed the osm route rather than GPT bcs it seemed more accurate.However it was still CC on rocks almost the whole way. Up high there is water here; -37.87362, -71.20509 and "some" spots for camping. Later there is a scenic valley good for water and camping, nice views of Copahue's glacier; -37.87753, -71.19874. We followed this valley down until we had to cross out of it, once leaving this valley there is no drinking water until the hot springs.
We camped at the hot springs which are a good temperature, one small pool but I think there are more higher up. The area around is not good for camping and very boggy, we found one half decent spot. Unfortunately Tomáš had his turn with the stomach bug and the smoke crept in strongly overnight. We rested late until the next day.

Day4
We rested until late morning as Tomáš was still barely recovered from his stomach bug and walked the long road to Guallalí.

The beginning of the road could have been some of my favorite scenery so far, The Araucaria trees surpassed my expectations and especially when they are backdropped with mountains and at one time an orange river (glacier water flowing through sulphur like sediment?), it feels like the era of the dinosaurs. The road for option01 had plenty of good water sources (~5x). Friendliest dogs at this puesto; -37.95898, -71.26155 and a teeny tiny amount of water.
Luckily got a hitch with a local to the bus stop shortly after the intersection with 01 and RR. From there we walked about 3 km to Guallalí.

* '''2023-Jan-25 to 2023-Jan-27 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maks& Gabi'''

Really quick section. We started about 2 pm on 25.01 and finished about 2 pm on the 27.01.
Nice and easy with visible trail and no problems from the locals (all of them really nice). There is no water between 14 and 33km even after rain.
We stayed at Camping by Laguna el Barco and paid 8 000 for the both of us. The water in the shower is ice cold, but there are few ladies selling fresh, warm bread.
The public transport from the end of the section is the bus at 5.30 (Guallali) or bus point 5.45. We tried to hitchhike but with no luck. We camped in Guallali by the river (next to the church.

* '''2023-Jan-25 to 2023-Jan-27 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš'''

We found this section surprisingly attractive - mainly the plateau was breathtaking. We spent the first night at a property of a Mapuche family (waypoint Camp - 7,1 km). Right before the ascent to Laguna Liay, there was a Mapuche family whose father approached us, he acted rather reserved from the start towards tourists (as he told us that they bring litter into the mountains) but we ended up drinking harina tostada with the family which also sold us some bread. We took the optional route which goes around the Laguna Liay and couldn't find the path so we somehow slid down the hill and went around the beach. Laguna Liay was really great to take a swim in and felt private (until a helicopter started hovering above our heads, taking water from the lake). There really seemed to be no water on the plateau - we took it from the Laguna and spent the night on the plateau - lots of space for camping there. The next day we arrived at Laguna El Barco, we didn't have to pay for the entry to the lake. The tienda there was open until 8 p.m. and had tuna, rice, pasta, biscuits, beverages, toilet paper, instant soups. There was a stand that made sopaipillas, churascos, french fries, salad, tortillas. Then there were some ladies going around the beach offering almost the same. We hitchhiked some of the last kilometres of the road to Guallalí. There's a shop as others indicated and a bus going only in the morning as written below. The chances of hitch hiking from there are rather scarce, as our Polish fellow travelers found out. There's a quite nice camping spot by the river further down the road (it's a few metres into the start of the section 11); it's not very private but people that were passing by didn't mind us camping there. Continued to section 11 thereafter.

* '''2023-Jan-12 to 2023-Jan-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / detour past Laguna las Totoras / Will '''

Another quick section, with some super unique Araucaria forests. I decided to try and find the trail to Laguna las Totoras that Jo and Veronica mentioned. The route wasn't exactly traditionally scenic, but I had a good time. The lake was more of a shallow grassy pond surrounded by thick Araucaria forest. To me it was a nice change from all the classic alpine lakes. Flat grassy bank that seemed perfect for camping. The water itself was warm and a bit muddy. I didn't see anyone along the detour, other than a few bulls at the lake.

I turned off the main trail at -37.90827, -71.30880. I followed some horse tracks curving to the south along the edge of the woods. The tracks went through some sandy clearings before I eventually lost them in the woods. The woods were pretty easy travel, before too long I was out on a grassy plateau where I found tracks leading to the mirador marked on openstreetmap. Went up the road through some inspiring woods to the lake. I then walked south along the not very scenic road back to the main route.

Could be a nice option to take if you're in the mood for a change from the open alpine trail.

Other than that I missed the turnoff to the Laguna liay and decided to try bushwhacking straight through. Had a good time going off trail due west to the bottom right corner of the lake, open woods with a few pretty easy scrambles up/down rocky cliffs. Had a worse time trying to head southeast back to the main trail, encountering some thicker woods.

The bus to Ralco comes at 2pm on Sunday, so I spent two nights at Laguna El Barco with a quick walk Sunday morning to catch the bus. For 15000 I rented a kayak to circle the lake in a bit under two hours, super nice. The campsite was crowded for the weekend. There were some nice ladies selling simple food. The trail to the right of the campsite along the lake is beautiful.

Had a hard time finding accommodation in Ralco, the first five places I tried were full. Eventually found a spot at Cabañas Nehuen Antu for 30k.

* '''2023-Jan-11 to 2023-Jan-13 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

We continued from Trapa Trapa in the late afternoon to the camp at km 7. Trail is easy to navigate from the beginning. We set the camp actually a few meters before the puesto, in the forrest on the right side that seemed to be more quiet and hidden place. There is a nice spot with water around km 8, before entering the valley. We have seen just a few people around the puestos. Ascent to the pass is not bad, we enjoyed again very different landscape all around. Continuing to laguna, we decided to camp below arucaria trees a little before the official camp (cca 2 km) since we would get there pretty late. Based on comments from other hikers we went through the camp the next morning to check if there is opportunity to buy some food and eventhough the shop was closed, there were two ladies selling tortillas and sopapillas, churrasco and a few other things. The trail after laguna is mostly a dirt road passing around puestos. There was a community festival in Guallalí (1st edition) which was really nice to see, we tried grilled goat and bought some local products, great experience. One of the guys from the festival took us to Ralco in the evening and arranged a cabaña for us (35k CLP). There are 2-3 bigger shops with basically everything, gas is in the one next to the biggest market on the plaza. On the other hand, minishop in Guallalí is very limited, but they have some drinks, ice cream, cookies etc. There is also one small shop on the way to Guallalí, close to Bus 10-E mark.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Jan-09 to 2023-Jan-10 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Trapa Trapa - Laguna El Barco / Anna & Christopher '''

We started from Trapa Trapa around 11 am after finishing section 9. The first part nearly until Laguna Liay is an easy walk on dirt roads/nice paths with several water sources.
We met some pehuenche people who greated us friendly, only one man mumbled if we had a 'permiso' to pass there (we couldn't understand him very well). But then his friends told him to let us pass, he went away and we continued walking.
On the last km to Laguna Liay there is a lot of bush bashing. But it's definitely worth it, a very nice camping spot up there.
The next day we took option C around the lake, which was a mistake because at some point we couldn't find a path and ended up on a sketchy climb to the top of the plateau. The rest of the way to Laguna el Barco is easy with good paths.There is no water between Laguna Liay and Laguna el Barco.
At the Laguna they charge 5000 CLP p.p. for the picnic/beach and 8000 CLP p.p. for camping. From there we hitchhiked to Ralco to resupply.

* '''2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / Option C / Véronica '''

Route: Trapa Trapa - Laguna Liay - Laguna El Barco - Guallalí

Two days from Trapa Trapa to Guallalí. Easy trail up the valley towards Laguna Liay. Didn't see anyone, most of the puestos appeared unoccupied. Lovely araucaria grove at the base of the big climb to Laguna Liay. The trail during the climb was overgrown/hard to distinguish in some places, and had a few areas of blowdowns too, which made the going slow during that bit.

I took Option C around Laguna Liay, which I found to be a frustrating maze of cow paths. One minute it's nice and clear and then it disappears, leaving me to bushwhack my way along until I stumble upon it again. The lake is beautiful though, and it's the last water before Laguna El Barco, so I filled up a couple litres. Met my first other GPT hikers in 3 weeks there too, they were going NOBO. Really beautiful up on the plateau of araucarias.
There was no one at Laguna El Barco when I got there around lunchtime, no one selling food either. Spent over an hour there enjoying the shady picnic tables and the beach.

Easy trails/4×4 tracks the rest of the way to Guallalí. The two NOBO GPT hikers I met yesterday got charged 10,000 pesos by some local Mapuche folks to pass through this area, but I (again) didn't meet anyone.
The shop in Guallalí is very limited. When I saw the selection, I decided to take the bus the next morning to Ralco, it leaves at 5:30 am. The shop owner was also not offering accommodation, but pointed me to the lovely araucaria grove across the street to camp. There is Entel cell service here :)

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Feb-27 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain '''

- Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292] : the place is nice, as mentioned there are lot of bins, the camping is also very nice and the showers still very cold. They charged me $5.000 for the night. It was written "with no (something I didn't manage to read)" on the bill so if they charge you $8.000 you can try to specify you don't have car, or I don't know... They removed the panel for the grocery just after I asked for it so it's now fixed, there is no grocery. The family selling cooked food wasn't selling food when I visited them around 11:00, maybe because it was monday morning, maybe because it was the end of summer, I don't know

- Close to GPT10-C Start there is a point of view on the whole valley, it's beautiful and you can see all the puestos

- Just after it there are many paths to go down, I haven't taken the one from the GPS but it's very easy to reach it then

- Around Puesto {10} [14.5/1297] an arriero told me there are 2 paths going down the valley, one on each side of the river, I've followed the GPT to try to reach Trapa Trapa before the night so I didn't go further about them but if someone try

- Around fords there are often a "bridge" made of one massive plank, the same arriero told me about some so they probably check each year they are usable. You just have to look for it, but it can not be the case at some points

- The number of puestos in this Valley is impressive, I only had good contacts with the people I met

* '''2022-Feb-11 to 2022-Feb-12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + optional section 10-E straight from Laguna El Barco to Guallalí / Veronika & Jo '''

In one day from Trapa Trapa to Laguna Liay, camping at the north side. There are many cow trails leading down to the laguna. The one we took seemed suitable for hikers too. Going back up the next day we got lost in the cow maze though, and only by searching for our own footprints from the previous day did we get back on the RR. It may be worth having a look at our GPS tracking data to figure out our initial path.

The next day continued to Guallalí. Beatiful plateau! Got to harvest our first piñones as well! However, we hurt the araucaria tree by breaking off a small but not insignificant branch when trying to get the green "pinecone" to break off, using the "strong rope" method described in the hiker's manual. Only later we learned you should go for the brownish, "café"-colored cones. Just hit these with your walking stick and the piñones will fall right off. You then collect them from the ground. The threatened araucaria will be much happier not being hurt :)

When in need of water at the plateau, there should be a path to Laguna Totora from S 37° 54.510', W 071° 18.580', according to an arriero who passed by. Maybe a future optional route?

The optional routes 10-E and 10-G have become MR instead of TL.

The lodging at the shop in Guallalí was not avaible, but the shop owner pointed us to an araucaria grove closeby (you can enter via a wooden gate next to the escuela). We camped there: S 38° 02.647', W 071° 16.441'. There were some villagers passing by, so it seems to be public land. There's a small stream to the east with quite clear water. Maybe it's possible to camp more upstream to the north, where there are bridges and where the stream has passed fewer houses.

Continued to GPT11 immediately after.

* '''2022-Jan-19 /3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Molly and Melissa '''

Between Guallalí and Laguna el Barco is mainly gravel road, but sometimes there are small, discrete paths that connect them, so keep an eye on the GPS.
The camping at Laguna el barco is now 8000 per person. There are toilets, very cold showers and many garbage bins. There is also a family selling tortillas (bread baked in the ash) and sopaipillas, as well as some other people who come down in the evening and morning selling tortillas. There's a shop advertising ice cream, bread, sodas and other stuff, but it's closed. The people at the camping told us that it would open at 13, and then at 20, and then next day. A lady who had stayed there for a week said it had been like that the whole week, so I wouldn't count on it being open. As noted, you can ask the campground people to charge your phone. All in all, it was a nice campsite.
Shortly after, the big climb starts. You have to pass through a fence and by some houses - again keep an eye on the GPS. We were charged 1000 per person, probably wouldn't happen for people going southbound.
As warned, there was no water on the plateau until Laguna Liay. At the camp-waypoint, there is a very small lake, it doesn't look like the best drinking water, and the path directly to the lake seems very overgrown. Instead, we continued around the lake and found a decent campsite on the far side. The path around the lake is faint at best, and we ended up doing some serious scrambling down a cliff, however when we got down we found a path coming more from the right, so maybe there's a better way. The walk around is pretty, though.
After the descent, the rest is easy walking past many puestos.
In Trapa Trapa, we stayed at the house marked "lodging, food". They charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. Very nice family, they might be away in their puesto sometimes though. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner. They were building a cabaña when we were there. Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there. Apart from that there are two other minishops, one in each direction, which we didn't check out.

The bus apparently leaves for Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends.

* '''2021-Dec-03 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option D / Marc Anthony '''

After finishing GPT9 I went directly on to GPT10 and made camp at the camping ground by el barco lake (5000 pesos) you can ask them to charge your electronics by the house where you pay. They didn’t sell any food.
Like already mentioned by others, remember to bring a lot of water for the following section. The plateau you climb up on after El Barco lake was very dry. Next water source with good clean water was at Laguna Liay. I was getting desperate for water, so I took variant D directly down to the laguna. The trail was very overgrown and requires some bush bashing. Frustrating amounts of mosquitos and horseflies in this part of the section, might be worth bringing some mosquito spray!

Next section towards trapa trapa was nice and easy with perfect weather and plenty of water.
Found two mini-shops in Trapa Trapa with only limited supplies. A bus to Ralco, leaves weekdays 6:00 in the morning. Therefore I spent the night in a room that a local Mapuche family were renting out. Was served a very big plate of grilled sheep meat and really enjoyed talking with the family. Later in the evening the father returned home very drunk. He was nice and talkative but I was getting at bit of a bad vibe from him, so thanked them for the food and went off to bed. Later at night I was awaken by someone vigorously trying to open the door which I thankfully locked. Rest of the family woke up and I heard a mans voice shouting something about “extranjero” and soon after the abuela kicked this guy out of the house.

Instantly thought I was gonna get robbed, but might just have been a drunk family member or the father who had forgot I was sleeping in their room. Hard to say… Apart from this I really enjoyed interacting with the locals in this region and I’ve had a lot of nice and memorable experiences.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Feb-02 / Incident on GPT10 at Puesto-55 Location S 37* 49‘ 31.79‘‘ / W 71* 16‘ 23.38‘‘ / Published on behalf of Trevor Mattson'''

"Sad to report that i had a very negative experience about 15km into section 10 on sunday (2/2). I was offered food and a place to camp by a very nice pehuenche lady (miriam, goes by "mila", the puesto after puesto 55 marked as "puesto, food" at the beginning of the OH route right after it splits from RR) only to have her husband come home later an try to rob me. She was extremely friendly. Although he was noticeably intoxicated, he was also nice at first as we joked, drank maté an collected firewood together. After a couple hours, as the sun was almost completely gone (~10pm), he went inside his puesto, grabbed a knife, an approached me from behind as i sat around the fire with his wife. He marched me to my tent with the knife pressed againt my neck. I allowed him to search it (he kept saying "plata, plata, plata" an his Spanish wasn't very good) which gave me the opportunity to pick up a rock an intimidate him a bit. I had a lot of money an wasn't just gonna let him take it and all of my stuff up in the mountains at night. His wife then came an tried to get between us / protect me (she was pleading him to stop). He was shoving her around, but this gave me just enough time to rip my tent out of the ground, which had all my stuff in it, an quickly drag it to the nearest puesto (~100metres). He followed me on horseback after a minute or two an the family there armed themselves with sticks an told him to f**k off.

I hiked for a few hours through the night an met an incredible family at around 1700metres on the optional route (papa named exequel). They told me that he (bernardino from "puesto, food") has robbed a "chino" (means anyone that looks even remotely asian in my latin American experiences) in the past an that "se vuelve loco" when he drinks vine. I bought more cheese from bernardino an his wife than i wanted/needed as a nice gesture an we seemed to get along, so this was reassuring that he was just crazy an it was nothing that i did to provoke him. In other words, i behave according to the manual provided by Jan an it is not at fault.
All in all, the pehuenches an mapuches i've met are all amazing except this guy. I definitely had to inform you all but don't want you to think that they are some uncivilized savages by any means. Bernardino kept telling his wife that i was "solo" as his justification for robbing me as they argued. Therefore i don't recommend passing through there alone, especially not later in the evening. I think if you stick to the regular you will narrowly avoid the puesto entirely. Or definitely worth the extra few KMs to continue to exequel's puesto further up the OH route. Also, i had a few extra pesos in a separate pocket that i was able to pretend like was all the money i had which was clutch. An from now on, I'm not staking anything into the ground until i know the father of the family well.
Anyway, happy trekking, stay safe, an if anyone knows a good place to try an fix tent poles in concepción by chance then that would be awesome!"

* '''2020-Jan-23 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank '''

Came in from Trapa Trapa in evening & camped @ Camp 81. There is a Mapuche family living there, talked to them & they were OK with me camping nearby. I was caught out by the sudden transition from river valley to dry plateau, had very little water & was as dry as dirt when I got to stream 1KM before Laguna Barco, drank 3 litres there. 3000CLP camping for 1 person @ Laguna. There is a Mapuche family with a food stall there, they have chips, sopaipillas & tortilla. The tortilla is like a small bread loaf. Next morning as I was leaving around 8:30 the Mapuche woman came round the campsite with fresh sopaipillas & tortilla. Walked in to Guallali from Laguna Barco in about 3 hours. Shop in Guallali is small but Romina who runs the shop provides beds & meals. 20,000 CLP for evening meal (usually goat & rice), bed & breakfast. Walked out 9KM to Comunidad Chanqueco, there is a good shop there. From Chanqueco it's easier to hitch, traffic coming from Laguna Barco but very little from Guallali. Hitched into Ralco, stayed @ Hosteria Montana there, about 15000CLP single.
2 supermarkets in Ralco, they sometimes have camping gas.

* '''2020-Jan-12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes'''

Overview:
This section was well marked/distinguished relative to all the other sections on thus far. There were many Puestos along the way as well. This was also the first section where the araucaria tree is very prevalent across the landscape. This section was my final section on the GPT and the araucaria trees and the lush green landscape provided good contrast to the semi-desert climate south of Santiago de Chile.

Difficulties:
There was a small 12km ish section without water close to the pass.

Highlights:
Change in landscape. Great views of the many volcanoes in the area.

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin '''

Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.

* '''2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

The trail was in good condition and we didn’t experience any issues. Possible to resupply at Guallalí but the selection isn’t huge (pasta, dry soups, crackers, tuna etc). If you are looking to bus into Lonquimay, it was leaving at 5:30AM the next morning for us (but we didn’t take it).

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

Easy trail and navigation. We got in this really bad weather too. Storm and ice at the pass. In Guallali we had coffee and sopapillas at the carabinieros and spent the night at the same place as Matus, Anna and Linda. We took the bus at 05:30 towards Los Angeles and are staying in Ralco for resupply and drying.

* '''2019-Dec-25 to 2019-Dec-26 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Linda'''

- Nice hike with no major difficulties. The plateau with the araucarias after the pass is amazing!!!

- No river when you leave the valley toward the pass and then down to the other valley BUT, as I wanted to sleep on this plateau (25 km after the start of the section) I found a small river 300 meters on the right from the regular track and camped at this place : S37,895511° O71,308919° Wonderful sunset!!!

- In Guallali, end of the section, lodging, food and mini shop. Lodging at the way point Minishop very nice = guesthouse with diner and breakfast for 20000 CLP. Very nice family!!!!

* '''2019-Dec-17 / 3.5 days (11 walking hours) / Hiking / NOBO / RR with hitch hiking between Guallali and Laguna el Barco / Sophie & Hendrik '''

In total we were 3.5 days on the trail, of which we spend 1 in the tent due to bad weather. The 0.5 day we had left from arriving in Guallali we spend buying food and hitch hiking to the campground at Laguna el Barco. We did so because we expected rain soon and wanted to camp it out. Also we were not too keen for the gravel road part.

We liked: Nice araucaria trees, an amazing sunset we saw a tad south of Laguna Llai and after section 11 and 12 the easy terrain.

We did not like so much: The horsflies.

* '''2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna '''

GPT09 and GPT10 Season section log.
We combined these two sections. It took us 3.5 days via regular trail SOBO.
Trail in both section is in good condition. There is snowfield in first pass as was mentioned. We went left, but it would be worth to check is it's possible to go through rocks on the right as it seems much shorter.
Water is not marked on a map but there is a stream before the pass.
Resuply in Trapa Trapa is very limited. They had few tunas, other caned fish, some pasta, flour, cola, crisps... We didn't check for accomodation.
We stayed in a paid campsite at Laguna el Barco for 5000 both. Around 8 there was a woman selling bread and sweet pastry, but mind that it was weekend.
Resuply in Guallali again very limited. They have tunas, caned fish, pasta, oil, crackers and bit more. We are staying in a house next to the shop.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Trapa Trapa
- Accommodation: The house marked "lodging, food" charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner.

- Shopping: Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there. There is a panel just before the street going to the grocery indicating that the mini-market is 100m away. There are two other minishops.

- Bus: The bus apparently leaves for Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends.

*Guallalí
Lodging at the way point Minishop very nice = guesthouse with dinner and breakfast for 20000 CLP.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*Laguna El Barco :
Updated Mar 22

-The family selling cooked food close to Lake, Camp $ {10} [32.9/1292] wasn't selling food when I visited them around 11:00, maybe because it was monday morning, maybe because it was the end of summer, I don't know

=Transport to and from Route=

Bus Guallali - Ralco - Santa Barbara - Los Angeles 05:30

Updated January 2022:
Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]

=Images=
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108664113.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603529.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603527.jpg|thumb|Araucarias at GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603530.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_108603538.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]
[[File:GPT_5_Laguna_El_Barco_1086641189.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT10 - Laguna El Barco]]

GPT09 (Volcan Antuco)

2025-02-05T16:05:03Z

Juliasbrain: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2024-01-29 to 2024-01-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 09A / Chris & Julia'''

Day 1: stayed in Antuco (Details in Log of section 8), took bus in the morning at 8:20 to Abanico and hitched from there a bit further until the track starts (off the MR). At the parque national checkpoint we had to explain a bit. It seems you should buy some ticket beforehand online. Since there was no internet reception, this was not possible on the spot. As we left for Trapa Trapa, they let us pass anyhow (we couldn't just pay in cash). The pass is really beautiful, last chance to get water is in the river one is loosely following, flowing on the right. Once it deviates, it becomes a bit dry until descending after the pass into the valley. The pass is super exciting and beautiful. There we aimed for the marked campspot, that little cave next to the police, but were surprised to find a construction site short before. We talked to the owners, they are building a restaurant with campsite and are offering tours up vulcan antuco. They were super friendly, let us stay somewhere in the bush for free and were even allowed to use their cantine-bus for our meals, which was super nice to sit upright and less exposed :) we enjoyed that a lot. In the future they want to also rent ice gear to climb antuco from the southern side which is way less demanding.

Day 2: hiked along the MR, border control post manned, but not operating as a control post anymore. We weren't able to catch a ride for some time, but finally hitched the last 6km until the path splits off to the right. From there its mostly boring MR, some puestos, many not marked. Wanted to camp at marked Camp [47.1], but there is a puesto now. We went a few hundred meter down the road and found a spot there, closer to the river.

Day 3: it gets more scenic towards the pass (also nice for camping, water at both sides of the pass), after the pass it gets really beautiful all the way down to trapa trapa. Last bit is a bit tricky to navigate in the river bed.
In Trapa Trapa we had lunch at the food & lodge location. They were really nice, almost same meal as described before but we had to pay 27kCLP for two people.
After that we went to the red house marked. Only sweets, nothing "good". We got 1.2kg of cookies, but decided to continue anyways and went into 10.

Beautiful & boring bits. Resupply and getting out bit tricky. No snow, no fords worth mentioning.

*'''2024-01-27 to 2024-01-28 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01B+OH02+09C+RR / Dorota Szparaga'''
Day1: After very good breakfast with owners of Camping Antuco I started at 12.00. I have decided take lower variant I was afraid of snow at pass. Var OH1B+OH2 leads on comfortable MR with views on Laguna Laja and Volcanos. Near the trail there are a lot of monuments. In 2005 was tragedy. A.lot od young soldiers dead in snow storm. At point OH02 (9.2/1409) there is now refugio, only signs. I took water in refugio of Police OH09C (1.1/1475). At border control nobody was interested in me. I joined RR at km 34.9/1495. Camp after Ford 37.0/1512. Water level very low.

Day2: It was very hot but not problem with water. In puesto 47.1/1709 women made me fresh tortilla in fire for 5000 CLP. In Trapa Trapa in Shop (Red House) near point lodging Almonte nothing : only software drinks, sweets. Night at Lodging, Food with Mapuche family. Total 35000 clp for bed, breakfast and dinner. They were polite and very Quick prepare me place for night in spite of the fact that I arrived at 19.00. A girl of 12 years old talk to me a lot.

*''' 2025-Jan-22 to 2025-Jan-23 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Janboro '''

I combined GPT 09, 10 and 11 and took 6,5 days in total.

Day 1

Spent the night before my departure at the cabaña that belongs to Roca Café right next to the last bus stop and is run by Checo.

Tried to hitchhike to the place where Farah and I stopped the day before, but wasn’t successful. So I took an “Uber”: a local guy who offered to drive me to Piedra del Indio for 50 luca. There, I started my hike in the late afternoon.

The walk up the valley was straightforward, lots of water and easy terrain.

I had plenty of encounters with puesto dogs that weren’t all too happy about my uninvited visit on their territory, with one being scary: At the puesto at [46.9/1709], two dogs aggressively barked and approached me while I was still more than a hundred meters away. No owners in sight and nobody reacted to my “holas”. Picking up stones as recommended in the manual didn’t keep the dogs from coming closer, so I decided to turn around, walked back around a hundred meters, crossed the river and made a big detour around the Puesto. I camped one or two kilometers upstream next to the river. Later in the evening, I saw the dueños coming back to their puesto on horses.

Day 2

The next morning I ascended the rest of the valley, had another two dogs barking aggressively and approaching me at Puesto at [49.3/1820]. This time picking up stones kept them at a distance of two meters. Also, their dueños were at home and eventually got their dogs to calm down and turn around.

Shortly after the pass at [50.4/1878], I met a Pehuenche arriero who was on his way to his cattle in Antuco. Had a brief, nice chat with him and continued my descent.

Way down also with easy terrain and a lot of water. At times the way is pretty steep though and I slipped two times in the sandy underground and fell on my butt.

At the outskirts of Trapa Trapa I accidentally took the wrong way, walked through a gate and one to two hundred meters later found myself in a fenced-off private property, with two aggressively barking dogs approaching me, one from the front, one from the back. I yelled: “hola?” and a Pehuenche lady came and dot the dogs to leave me alone. Thanked her and apologized a couple of times. Her son opened the exit gate for me, I asked him if I was going the wrong way, he confirmed and pointed towards the correct way.

In Trapa Trapa I searched for the shop and found it at the location, Ivan, Jakub and Daniel indicated. The selection of products was very limited, but I stilll had plenty of food so I only bought an ice cream and a pack of chicky bum. Continued through Trapa Trapa towards GPT10.

*'''2025-Jan-19 to 2025-Jan-20 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / 09-01A, 09-02 / Farah & Jan '''

Day 1

Started at Park Ranger [8.4/1110]. Decided to avoid the CC on the RR as Farah’s knee was still not fully recovered from GPT06 and took the MR (09-02) instead. Took the 09-01A detour, then a pizza break at the Antuco Basecamp. Lots of traffic on the MR, so we ate a lot of dust. Camped around 2 km behind the Monument of the Tragedy of Antuco {09-02} [3.4/1416] right next Laguna Laja.

Day 2

Continued on the MR, still lots of dust, and camped at S 37°27.977' W 71°18.332' in the river bed.

Day 3

The next morning Farahs knee pain got so bad she couldn’t continue, so we decided to tramp back to El Abanico. Close to the camp at {09-C} [1.0/1440], we found a building made of shipping containers and told the people who live there about our problem. Don Leonel, the owner, plans to open a restaurant at that spot within the next 1-2 months. They already have a camping ground with toilets and showers. Ignacio, mountain guide by trade, who works for Leonel, drove us to El Abanico and recommended us to stay at the cabaña of Checo, who also runs Roca Café right next to the last bus stop.

'''2024-Jan-15 to 2024-Jan-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar

''''
We got a ride from our sweet cabaña owner to the entrance to the park. The ranger took our info but we didn't need to pay because we hiked SOBO.

It was rainy and we decided to camp near the waterfall and climb to the pass tomorrow.

2nd day:
All trails were clear and easy.
Camped at (-37.51122, -71.25437).

3rd day:
At approx (-37.51590, -71.25192) there was a puesto, and Maurizio invited us to have breakfast with him (eggs, bread, goat meat leftovers).
We camped near ford [54.9/1423].

4rth day:
Nothing at the resupply waypoint. We asked a teenager (the only person we saw) where is the store. He told us there is no store in Trapa Trapa, but that he might be able to sell us some stuff. He took us to his home, and his parents fed us and sold us some basic food (flour, harina tostada, pasta, honey).

*'''2025-JAN-08 to 2025-JAN-09 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 09C / Alex '''
The pass {09} [16.8/2043] is now open for safe and direct access in both directions. The regular route (RR) still has a challenging ford at Río de los Piños. Instead, I followed 09C.

* ''' 2024-DEC-22 > 23 / 1,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > route > RR > Crête / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : beaucoup au col du volcan
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 2/5
| Danger : neige sur pente raide

Bus de 11h (dimanche) puis auto-stop immédiat jusqu'au depart du sentier.
La seconde moitié de la montée est plus compliquée mais se fait bien. Il y a des cairns dans tous les sens. Enorme congère au col, impossible a faire si la neige est gelée.
J'ai pris la route au pied du volcan car le sentier est faisait un détours non justifié. Au col j'ai pris le sentier de crête. A Trapa Trapa je pensais trouver un resto ou une epicerie mais il n'y a rien a proximité du sentier.

*'''2024-DEC-21 to 2024-DEC-22 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (var. B, C, 03B) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

From the bus stop at the end of section 08 var. 06-B [2.9/734], we set out with supplies for two days. We walked 6 km along the main road Q-45 to the start of section 09. At coordinates -37.3983, -71.43998, we reported at the park gate, filled out a form, and paid the entrance fee to the national park, which was 5,700 CLP per person.

While ascending to the first pass, we crossed a hardened lava field (aprox. 500m), full of sharp rocks. The views of Volcán Antuco and Sierra Velluda were breathtaking there.

At the pass at km 16.8, there was still a significant amount of snow on the southeastern side. We used our siesta pads to slide down about 100 meters of elevation. Since the trail was buried under the snow, we continued cross-country on the snow. From there, we chose variants B and C.

We spent the night after the river crossing at km 37.0. After sunset, a local arriero on horseback came to check on us from a nearby puesto.

The next day, we reached the end of the minor road and, from the pass, opted for variants {09-03} and {09-03B}. In Trapa Trapa, we resupplied with only sweets and instant noodles, as the selection was very limited. However, a kind lady sold us some eggs as well. The small shop is located at coordinates -37.7124106, -71.2564517

'''2024-Dec-18 to 2024-Dec-19 / 1.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (Partly) / Sean & Neele'''

Resupplied at the red shop (S 37.42745, W 71.15386) in trapa trapa, they had ramen cookies, chocolate etc. She also sold us a big loaf of bread. Not great for a full resupply but enough for us to top up for a few days.

Ford 54.9km - would be possible to camp around here if you wanted a short day in or out of trapa trapa. Water is a available from here all the way up and over the pass at the moment.

Ford 33.5km (approx) Crossing Rio de Los pinos on the RR was deep and strong for us at 1pm so we decided to hitch the road instead. Not much traffic but we got picked up by the police.

Pass 16.8km - lots of snow still we decided it was too much for us so hitched to Antuco.

Antuco has plenty of options to resupply. We found one screw top gas canister in the hardware store opposite the plaza. Big supermarket and other hardware stores had the cartridge type.

*'''24-12-06 - 24-12-09 / 3 days / SOBO / RR, OHa / Volker

A wonderful spring hike!
I hitchhiked from Pelluca (close to Antuco) to the camp site Lagunillas. Conaf registration is now on the road. 10K for day visitors, no fee for those, who continue SOBO. The Conaf guy at the spot indicated in the track files already knew from his colleague, that I am coming. Started there at 2.30 p.m. After the first slope very scenic landscape. The pass was completely under snow, so I walked back a bit to the yellow spot (close to the big red spot), found a spot, that fits for one tent. Very windy and cold - but superscenic with Sierra Velluda so close.
Day 2: Volcan Antuco summit. I didn‘t start earlier than 7:15 as I wanted the sun to melt the surface of the snow before I arrive at the steep slope to the summit. If it‘s frozen, mini-spikes don‘t help. Arrived at the summit at 10:30 and met two guys from Antuco. Great view up there! Back to my tent at 13:30h, took a long siesta in the afternoon sun, but decided not to spend another night on the cold pass. The access to the RR down was blocked by a vertical snow-wall, even cleavages there. I bypassed both by walking 200m to the right and went down CC on steep snowfields (in the afternoon: no problem). RR under snow until it gets less steep down in the valley. I wanted to spend another night close to the impressive Sierra Velluda, so I went CC to OH09a, found water and a nice spot to camp there.
Day 3: A lazy day. I started late and spent much time just enjoying the landscape. More fords than indicated, all easy, but none with dry feet. A none-indicated ford on RR shortly before gpt08-04 end I found to risky, so I crossed only the right river and followed the river bank to a path on the OSM leading to OH09C. Once on the plain, I went CC to join OH09C at the bridge. Camp close to the puesto at 39.6.
Day 4: Very nice walk on RR in a rapidly changing landscape. First moved very quick, in the forest zone I was slowed down, the trail is partly destroyed by water, later quite steep on unpleasant rubble. All river-crossings (6, including the indicated ford): dry feet. Arrived at Trapa Trapa at 4 p.m. and stayed at the indicated spot on 09-03e, simple accomodation (very, very friendly Mapuche hosts).

* '''2Dec2024 - 3dec2024 / hiking SOBO / OH2 - varC - RH - varD / 1,5 days / Clara'''

Hitchhiking from antuco to camping parque national.

Didn't go at pass 16.8km, seems dangerous as karin said + owner of the camping told me there's too much snow.
Hitchhike to km35. Not many cars but first one took me.

Camp at 47.

Pass at 50.4 : still snow but easy to cross.

Fords : still some thick snow fields melting on the top of some rivers on the way, but easy to cross for now.

Water : plenty at this period

Arrive at Trapa Trapa for lunch. Eat at point food, lodging. Kind and delicious. 10k CLP for harina tostada + soup with vegetables and pastas + tomatoes + lots of bread + tea.

* '''2024-Nov-22 to 2024-Nov-24 / 2.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - option 1, 2 / Karin'''

Camp: campamento amfiteatro / km47

The pass km16 looked doable. And the rangers at the entrance of the parc told me that there is only a small amount of snow. So I decided to take the RR. Snow fields started to appear from about 1860m altitude, but were easily crossable. But the other side of the pass (facing eastwards) is just one big snow field. On the ridge were cracks in the snow, big snow blocks broke out and fell down, and combined with the steepnes of the slope, the risk of avalanches is high. Therefore, I decided to backtrack.

Next day, two guys from the Departamento de obras offered me a ride and drove me to the landmark km35. From there the road is easy to follow with many small streams crossing it. So plenty of water.

At the pass km50, there was still some snow. The streams are sometimes covered by the snow. As I had to cross them, it was either possible to walk around and cross the stream a bit up or down stream, or the snow was still hard and thick enough for me to walk on it. Which was risky, because I could not know if this was the case before doing it. It might become dangerous to cross the snow fields over the streams when the snow melts more and therefore becomes less strong.

The valley to Trapa Trapa is very beautiful. It has a few more fords than indicated, mainly around S 37°40.6835' W071°14.1790' (altitude 1585m).

I stayed in the home of the very nice family, indicated in Trapa Trapa as "Food, lodging", for 2 days because of bad weather.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-03-19 to 2024-03-21 // 2 days (one day off due to the horrible weather) // Hiking // NOBO // RR + VARIANT C + VARIANT B // Quentin Clavel'''

I then continue my way threw GPT 09 (went from GPT 12 to 09 straight).

Easy track to follow all along, until the volcanic plateau. It's kind of an highway of arieros! I met a lot, all very nice, some of them quite curious of what my itinerary looks like.

Pass after trapa trapa was a bit hard because of the heat, and because I began to be a tired, I had to do few breaks.

Then arriving on a plateau, going down and pretty flat after, very well marques, on some part very sandy. After that you arrive on the big straight lines part, that was so exciting for me, the scenery are so nice that I was even a bit happy to walk on gravel roads aha. Weather begun to be very windy on the plateau that reminds me some hard times on the bloody tierra del fuego !

I was absolutely so happy to find an abandoned puesto that was a perfect shelter for an extremely windy, cold and rainy night. This shelter is located few meters on the right after the Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

As the weather was terrible the day after (snow on all the summits around and still heavy rain) I stopped for one day. One local, that live in a puesto around was curious and came by, we discuss and asked for the authorisation to stay there, and he said it was not a problem at all.

Day after was stunning, I was so happy to skip the rain to have this lovely weather for the end of this amazing section !

Took variant C, had nice talks with carabineros, no problem at all to pass there now as long as you explain the situation. This option si very scenic, again, I was amazed from the volcan and the nice geometry of it, and the gravel road who's going on the way.

Then CC on variant B, straight after the big house and the bus that sell food at the middle of nowhere !

I was amazed from the landscapes, antuco volcan for sure, but the amazing siella velluda también !

Teaching the pass, then continuing CC until reaching PK 11,89, and fond a well marked track until the road.

I strongly hesitated to go up to the summit, but as there were a lot of fresh snow and it was pretty windy, I decide to continue my way, still very happy of the scenery I saw there !

Reaching the road, then hitchhiking to antuco + bus to Los Angeles (7pm) for a porper break, before coming back on this point and going to GPT08.

AGAIN, I loved this section !

* '''2024-03-24 to 2024-03-25 / 2 days / SOBO / RR + var D / Marilyne'''

Day 1 - It was Sunday and few buses were running so I took a “taxi” from Antuco to the start of the trail up the pass. (Owner of my lodging called up one of his friends who sometimes drives Uber around town). 15k to go to the National Park. Park rangers told me that I didn’t have to pay entrance fees since I was crossing the park and not coming back the same way.
Many other hikers were there on a Sunday on the first part of the trail. Enjoyed the day very much and thought the scenery was beautiful. People at the puesto next to second ford of Rio de los Pinos offered me to stay with them but I declined as I was hoping to do this section in 2 days and wanted to hike a little further. Camped shortly after Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

Day 2 - Kept going on the RR until Trapa Trapa. Stopped at the kiosco to buy cookies and chocolate (melted as that little hut in the sun gets hot!). Kept going right away on GPT10.

* '''2024-Mar-7 to 2024-Mar-8 / 1.5 days / SOBO / RR 2 C D/ Matthias de Austria'''

Bus from Antuco to Abanico at 8:30am (tell driver you want out at the junction to Abanico). Partly hiked but mostly hitched up to the lake (very little traffic, I was lucky). I choose Variant 2 (an easy road) as my rucksack was so heavy (plan doing Section 9 to 12). Lots of small memorials spreaded out for the soldiers died in a blizzard a few years ago. There was a military training going on, so I passed a lot of small groups of soldiers. All friendly. Later a local familiy asked if I want a ride, sure! We pass the bordercontrol on C2.5km, police just waives us through from a distance. Soon they reach their picknickspot and I continue walking on that long and empty road.

No snowfields, plenty of (unmarked) water, fordings very easy, almost no Tabanos.

Did not see the shop in Trapa-Trapa, but had plenty of food anyway, so put no efford in searching. No cellphone connection in Trapa-Trapa with Movistar.
Nice views of Vulcan Antuco and Laguna de La Laya, otherwise not much to see. Nice, short and easy section (though I did not hiked the pass and had 2 long hitchhikes).

* '''2024 Feb 25 to Feb 28 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

We combined sections 09 and 10 into 5 days of hiking. Beautiful sections with a diversity of landscapes: volcano, meadows, puestos...

Transport to start of section: Albanico
Bus Los Angeles - Albanico at 5 p.m. from rural bus terminal
Hitch-hike to Lagunillas campsite (10,000 pesos pp per night, they also sell empanadas, which are very good, plus there's hot water).

Day 1: Lagunillas campsite - Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)

Lovely day and beautiful volcanic scenery. Not much shade on the climb. Rather pleasant bivouac spot, along the water, with grass and shade, rather cold night as our wet clothes froze at night. Water nearby (estero del volcano)

Day 2: Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)- Camp -37.62833, -71.24444

Beautiful day, with a few easy river crossings (maximum knee-deep). There's plenty of vegetation and shade, which is great for breaks.
The camp spot is just a few meters from a puesto, and they offered to let us pitch our tent. Night still cold (frost).

Day 3: Camp -37.62833, -71.24444 - Trapa Trapa

Easier and shorter day than the others, but we followed it up with the start of section 10 so as not to sleep in Trapa Trapa. Not much choice in the mini-shops in Trapa Trapa.

* '''2024-Feb 09 to Feb 13 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var C, Var D / Michael and Kasia'''

We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.

Day 0 - Feb 8th

We left Antuco around 13:00. It took two hitches to get us to Lagunillas campground (also called Parque Antuco camping). We were lucky that the second car was actually going to the campground and took us right to reception. Posted price was 10.000 CLP pp. There are about 20 campsites. Each had a picnic table and an electrical plugin, and one of the two bathrooms had showers with hot water. We were not blown away by the campground, however we were just coming from a hostel rather than coming out of the mountains, and perspective counts for a lot. They ask you to pack your trash out. They have a small tienda where they sell prepared food, but nothing for resupply.

Day 1 - Feb 9th

From Lagunillas we took an OSM track directly across the road. The trail is clearly marked and maintained. It goes through native forest with nice views of the mountains and lava fields.
There are at least two waterpoints along the way. The OSM trail connects in with RR.

The trail up is fairly well maintained, no brush overgrowth in the path and no places where the trail has collapsed. The path through the lava field was amazing, and the views of Sierra Velluda were spectacular. It is a fairly popular path. On a Friday about 15 other people were on the trail.

We had already decided we wanted to break the pass into two days if possible. We set up camp at the Campamento Anfiteatro or Amphitheatre Camping (-37.42427, -71.41517). It has a nice view of the glacier on Sierra Velluda and some shade in the afternoon.

If deciding to stay at the amphitheater camping area, there is water on the opposite side of the plane. There is a very large waterfall that is visible from a long distance. Walking toward it, a little to the east (left side) is a smaller waterfall that becomes visible about halfway across. It had very clear water and a pool that is easy to access. There was also a stream that appeared in the late evening about 50 m from the campsite but disappeared again overnight.

Day 2 - Feb 10th

There was water shortly after beginning up RR from Anfiteatro for some distance. The path is on the right side of the dry river bed as you are going up. We got confused and walked part way up the left side before realizing and had to backtrack to get to the correct side. There was still one very small snow field on the other side of the pass, but the trail curved around the right side of it so there was no need to walk on it. Expansive views of the valley on the way down. The trail was easy to see and follow most of the way. At the bottom we just went cross country. We camped at the larger of the two araucarias (-37.46186, -71.32047) in what looked like a arriero campground. The campsite at the smaller araucaria shortly before it looked a little nicer but required crossing the river and looked less wind protected.

Day 3 - Feb 11th

We got a late start. It was a Sunday and there was a fair amount of traffic on the road so we decided to go crosscountry from the bridge and cut the loop to connect in with Var C. It was dry in some places, swampy in others, and we eventually had to switch to water shoes to cross the river. It probably didn't save any time, but it was definitely more interesting and avoided getting blasted by dust with every passing car. We rejoined the road on the far side. The afternoon had a cloud cover and actually got fairly cool which made the road walk much more enjoyable. Once we got onto the spur road just before the BCP we didn't see any more cars or people for the rest of the day. We camped on the uphill side of the road around (-37.57617, -71.24087) which looked to be an arriero campground. Very dusty but there was a reasonably flat spot and a small stream nearby.

Day 4 - Feb 12th

We continued on RR. The valley was pretty, not too much happening. There were a lot of puestos but we saw only a couple of people and not too many animals. We stopped at the estero just before heading up to refill water and have lunch. We were initially going to take Opt 3B because it was shorter, but after seeing how exposed it was and some sketchy parts early on, we turned back and opted for RR. The path was easy to follow and actually in pretty good condition. It went through some beautiful forest which also provided some much needed shade. We took Var D down and did not encounter any dangerous scree. This section is also a little shorter than RR and passed by the river so one can refill if necessary. We were glad we took Var D. We decided to camp about 1km before Trappa Trappa along the river around (-37.70803, -71.24448). It was right next to the road, so far from optimal, but it worked.

Day 5 - Feb 13th

We walked into Trappa Trappa around 11:00. It was very windy the entire time we were there, and almost no one around. We first went to the shop with the Kiosko sign, but no one was there. A neighbor came out and told us that the guy works in the school till around 14:00, but would be around later. We then went to the shop indicated by the Provisiones sign. She didn't have a lot. She said the food truck was coming that day around 18:00, so I guess we just got unlucky with the timing. We bought some pasta, cookies, yogurts, Zukos, canned fish, crackers, and she made us sopaipillas for 300 each. They were really good but a very different style from the ones we had had with the arrieros, more pastry-like, fried crispy on the outside but still doughy on the inside and more oily. Very filling but I don't think they would work well to carry. We went back to the Kiosko shop and the guy came when we rang the timbre. He had even less stuff, mostly cookies. We bought a few more things there. Finally we went to the shop just at the beginning of Section 10. It is on the left just as you start down the hill, a corrugated metal wall with a large square cut out of the side that acts like a window and the word “Hola” scratched into the side. She had the least amount of things, but she did have fresh onions and carrots, no cheese (she said she makes it in December and when it's gone that's it for the year). Initially she said she didn't have any bread, but as we were talking with her she offered to sell us a bread, a pan amasado that was huge and dense and served us for three meals. From here we continued into GPT10.

* '''2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH B + C + D / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.8-9.6]

I hitched in the afternoon from Los Angeles to the entrance of the Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja (around km 5.8). From there I hiked to km 9.6. Here are some nice flat spots to camp + you have a nice view over the Rio Laja valley. But there is no water at the spot.

Day 2: RR [9.6-20.7] + OH09-B + OH09-C + RR [34.9-47.4]

Big flat, sandy area around km 11.9 is a good campingspot. There is also a creek flowing not more than 50 meters south of the RR-CC [11.9+4.9]. The RR over the Pass (km 16.8) is completely snow free now. The RR and OH-B cross a creek at km 20.8. There is lots of water on OH B + C + RR [34.9-47.4].

Day 3: RR [47.4-54.6] + OH09-D + RR [56.4-61.5]

Ford at km 52.3 is dry. But the RR cross a bunch of streams around the Pass (km 50.4) and it runs along the river of the valley at km 53.2 for a few 100 meters. I just went through Trapa Trapa and continued directly with section 10.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Trapa-Trapa - El Abanaico / RR + Option 01 + Option B + Option C +Option D / Alex & Christophe'''

We really enjoyed this section even if it wasn't really fast to walk in the sand and lava field.

We didn't have much to add to what has already been written.

We tried to summit the Antuco Volcano bit didn't success because it was too steep and too lose so we stopped at 2700m. I would recommend to take crampons if you want to summit, so you can go in the snow (wich was quite hard, even at 2pm) and it should be easier. What I would however recommend to everyone is to go up to 2300m. It is easy to go from the pass and the panorama is incredible.

We camped after the try on the Volcano at the Amphitheatre Campsite. It was a nice place but I wouldn't recommend it. First, you have to walk a kilometer just to wash yourself and to take some water and second, we had strong wind gusts all night long. The camp is not wind protected.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 2024-Jan-13 / 2 days / SOBO / RR, OH C, OH 03B and OH 03/ Hannes'''

Started in Camping Las Lagunillas at around 7 am. Took me about 4 to 5 hours to the pass. On the way up I found water starting from -37.423109 -71.404405 onwards, followed along. Big stream, should not dry out soon or never(?) during summer. At the pass still to much snow to drop in directly to the path on the other side. Instead of walking upwards to the left towards volcano I took short detour to the right, to come around the snowfield, for me worked out well. Slided then down on the lower and not so steep snowfields to get to a basin. Reached from there the RR…Thought could be tough to ford estero Petronquines on the RR, so took the road (OH C)…Two police stations there, nobody checked me, although cars were at each spot… somehow an annoying road to walk on…you could hitchhike a part of it, there is some traffic, but not to much. I did not. Camped at a beautiful spot at the river -37.511560, -71.259157 a few kms before the landmark. There is life here all along the road, lots of puestos, cows, sheep, goats. Next day again along this endless seeming road up to the pass above Trapa Trapa, water all along, even at the pass…From there I took OH 03B, which is the shorter way to the village, OH03 from
-37.69671, -71.25027 was in some parts a light BB till I got on a good trail which brought me down to Trapa. Descending down the pass to the village you’ll get an other version of Chile. Araucania trees are showing up and you are now in Mapuche region, no more chilean flags at every house down there. End of this sector was for me the biggest change on the GPT so far (having done the sections before from Santiago)…other people, language, culture, other flora…a kind of a very welcoming change. Arriving in Trapa Trapa you could give a try at owner of house at -37.71056, -71.26569, junction OH03 and main road. He offered me camping and food if I couldn’t find something in town. If not there is the usual family who takes guests. Miniminishop is at
-37.71240, -71.26355

* '''2024-Jan-01 to 2024-Jan-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {09-B} - {09-C} - RR - {09-D} - RR / Lilian'''

I combined GPT09+10+11+12, first resupply 6 days food in Antuco, then take 2.5 days for 09, stay in Trapa Trapa(save 2 meals), resupply in Trapa Trapa for 1.5 days food(low stock and limited selection). Then take 2 days for 10, stay in Guallalí(save 2 meals), resupply in Guallalí for 2 days food(low stock and limited selection but better than Trapa Trapa). Lastly 2 days for 11, 4 days for 12)

Nice resupply in Antuco, but most of them are closed because i visit here on the first day of 2024.

A friendly local give me a ride to the entrance of national park, thank you so much to him! There are some beautiful waterfalls start at RR km2.3 to km4.7, remember to take a look, they are at the mountain side(right side)! Lot of families come to here for enjoy their holidays.

RR km5.7 : ranger station for vehicles and people control for entering the park. Super nice and let me go in after i told them my route, no need to pay any fee or show any permits.

Park ranger[8.4/1110] : look like is a ranger station, didn't see anyone when I passed here on 5.30pm.

Km9.7 : flat area, you can camp here if need, but no water.

Km11.25 - km11.9 : lava trail, there are some rock cairn for you to follow, not difficult.

Km11.9 : if you continue going south at the RR sharp turning, about 200m you will met a stream, flowing good with cold and clear water, flat spots nearby too, but I'm not sure it will dry up or not.

Follow rock cairn to the pass, mostly you'll lost the trail and cairn at km15.6, look at the right side, go down the dry riverbed then climb up to the other side, you'll find cairn again. Don't walk in riverbed, they'll block your way at the end.

Still lot of snow after the pass, follow Véronica's comment, climb up the ridge to compass NE ( I walk on the top of snow slope, because it is flat and gentle, also i think it is easier than walking on loose sand.)

At about 2150m, there is a break without snow, a sandy slope that you can walk down. ( -37.43215, -71.36002 )

Not steep, i think is easy go down but slow, so when i go down a little, i go back to south side to join the snow slope for fast moving, snow slope becomes more gentle when it gets lower.

By the way, you can climb up and go down the pass without stepping on any snow now.

Km20.7 : you'll find car track here, you can follow it to dirt road, i take {09-B} here, avoid crossing Petronquines(RR km28.9) at downstream. {09-B} is something look like a very old car track on the ground, no cars running on it anymore, easy walking but not easy to follow.

{09-B} km1.15 : crossing of Estero El Aguada o El Volcán ( a long name), a stream. A very good crossing point, stream break to 6 parts here, all below half of calf at afternoon. Flowing nice with clear water.

After the crossing, i can't find any trail or car track on the other side, but after i keep going CC about 400m, a dirt road in good condition at mountain side, it'll lead you to the main dirt road and join {09-C}.

Bridge {09-C} [1.7/1417] : milky water.

Border control CL[2.5/1420] : gate for vehicles but not for people. Didn't see anyone when I passed here at 5pm.

Km3.7: excellent view point of Volcán Antuco and meadows.

Bridge[5.3/1444] : crossing Petronquines on a bridge, beautiful view and lot of clear water, maybe it is difficult to cross it at downstream (RR) as now. Look like you can camp beside, or under the bridge. But every 0.5 - 1 hour have a border control vehicle patroling the road, I don't know camping beside this road is it a good idea.

Bridge[7.3/1470] : clear water but no flat spots.

X RR[34.9/1495] : rejoin RR.

Ford[37.0/1512] : below half of calf at late afternoon.

Km39.4 - pass[50.4/1878] : lot of stream crossing the road, have 1-2 need wet feet crossing, just beside the pass is a stream flowing too.

Pass[50.4/1878] : beautiful grassland, flat and nice for camping, but 20+cows when I passed here.

RR-TL-V{09} [50.4+9.6] is a nice and maintained trail ,easy to follow, sometimes you'll find orange ribbon leads where you go.

Ford[52.3/1648] : no river crossing here.

Km53.15 - km53.65 : you need to cross the stream 4 times, then walk in the stream about 50m, but all dry feet crossing, rock hopping or log bridge will help you.

Km54.55 : junction of RR and {09-D}, but i miss the turning to RR, so i go for {09-D}.

{09-D} km0.4: river crossing, rock hopping for dry feet. Also a small grassland can fit 1-3 tents after the crossing 150m.

Km0.6 : a stream flowing good crossing the trail with a tiny waterfall, you can sit under it to enjoy a cool shower in a hot day. Look like the other side of river have a nice grassland for camping can fit 2-4 tents, but wet feet crossing.

Km1.1 : rejoin RR.

Viewpoint RR [57.4/1338] : if you are SOBO, it is the first view of Volcán Callaqui. Also nice view of Trapa Trapa.

Km58.6 : CAUTION, if you see a red ribbon, DON'T keep going, you are not on the trail, turn back immediately and check your GPS. RR trail is a sharp turning then go down, you are walking away from the trail and towards a very steep slope now.

Km58.95 : RR have some reroute at here, but mostly you can follow the only trail to main road.

I stayed at Trapa Trapa with the lovely family at (Lodging,food) waypoint. Simple single room with bed, quilt, chair, light and electric charger, also dinner and breakfast. I buy some sausage from the shop nearby and share with all people here. They are very exciting where i come from, what I'm doing, and what interesting things happened when I'm hiking, it is a warm night, i love them! And they invited me to watch their sterilization of horse, OMG OMG OMG, so shock to me, OMG.

Shop (-37.71249,-71.25642) : at compass West of (Lodging,food) waypoint, very close just 2 min walking. Two red house here, the small one is shop. Selling drinks, ice cream, biscuits, pasta, coffee, tea and some frozen meat( mostly is sausage). This shop have a sign on the main road, no sign at the front gate and the gate is opened.

* '''2023 Dec 28 to Dec 29 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / Option 2 + RR+ 09-C/ Ella'''

TLDR: no issue at border control. don’t count on Lagunillas Camping cafeteria or the Lodging, Food waypoint in Trapa Trapa

Bussed from Los Angeles to Abanico - make sure to go to the terminal for rural busses which will be different from where you might get off an intercity bus. Hitched from there to Lagunillas Camping. Campground was nice and spacious. The host is really kind and helpful. The cafeteria was not open for food when I was there, just coffee and tea.
Day 1: Due to a stormy forecast, I chose to avoid the already sketchy-seeming pass and head for the route around the lake (option 2). To get there, I took the small trails around the main road heading east from the campground, which were scenic for a cloudy day with no mountain view - enjoyed the volcanic landscape and the waterfall Salto Las Chilcas. I then was able to hitch a ride on the road beside the lake to the other side of the Volcano, which was good because there didn’t appear to be many streams or campsite options. I continued on by foot on Variant C. I went through border control and the officer was very thorough, but didn’t try to give me an exit stamp when I explained I wasn’t going to cross the border. He mostly seemed concerned that I was alone and tried to offer food and a bathroom! I camped a few kilometers further along that road by one of the streams that crosses it. Beware of aggressive bulls in the area.

Day 2: Easy walking all the way to the pass. Water is still available about every kilometer or two along this route. After the pass there are a few points with a bit of landslide risk where you’re walking on very unstable skree. In retrospect it seems Variant D may exist to avoid some of this but I can’t be sure because I didn’t take it. When I got to Trapa Trapa I was dismayed to find no one at the lodging and food point that others had raved about. The small market just beside this point (sign for “provisions” is only on the main road. looks like a small house with the front painted red next to a larger house) was indeed open at 6pm on a Friday after I called out. There were many types of biscuits and cold drinks, pasta sauce (no pasta), coffee, and maybe even some type of meat in the freezer that I wasn’t quite daring enough to buy. Highly recommend the calorific Chiky Bum biscuits for avoiding mental collapse after a nearly 30km day. I asked the owner about the lodging option next door and she said the family was away for a few days, so guess I just got unlucky. Further down the road towards GPT 10 where there is sign “Kiosco”, there’s also a small ice cream shop/market that was closed when I arrived. I didn’t find another market. Went back up the GPT 09 trail just a bit to get out of town and found a nice camping spot along the river for the night. Visits from goats and a baby horse were a welcome occurrence. No Entel service in Trapa Trapa.

* '''2023 Dec 20 to Dec 22 / 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-C/ Tomáš & Natalie'''

We took a bus at 19:00 from Los Angeles (which has a great system of shared taxis with fixed routes, number eight goes from the big bus station to Jumbo and back to rural bus station for 1000 per person) to Albanico and upon arriving there after five minutes, the first passing car took us to the border of the national park. We pitched our tent in the delta of the river not far from the road but not visible from it. Without the smoke of last year and with the yellow of brooms everywhere and Antuco under snow, the valley was extremely pretty.

The next day we talked to a CONAF ranger, he said an Argentinian hiker told him there was ice in the pass. We did not pay anything. [Including a nice trail that is on OSM in our suggestions to avoid roadwalking from the Rangers office to the RR up].

The climb is pretty, in the pass there was a lot of snow. We followed Véronica's suggestion from last year and climbed about 100 m of elevation to the east and then ran down on the snow (see picture here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1720553588450520/ ). The path in the valley was rather invisible. Two lone araucaria trees guard the road. We thought Rio de los Pines would be impossible to ford now with all the thawing (others seem to have passed though) so we took variant C along the main road to Argentina. Carabinieros just looked at our passports and let us go. A car passed about every half an hour. The valley is stunning yet the roadwalk is a drudge. The following minor road seems virtually never to be driven by cars and is in places badly damaged by water. The valley up is nice.

Going down to Trapa-Trapa, about 1 km after the pass, the path is eroded and new one was created going down to the water. The walk down through the forrest was quite pleasant. We met several groups of arrieros on both side of the pass, they were nice.

In Trapa-Trapa, we had lunch at "Lodging, Food" waypoint. We could not see any sign. We got tomatoes, cheese, bread, pasta, a piece of down fried in oil (tasty) and maté. We paid them a good price for it, we hope it was not too much. From March 2024, there should be (probably) Entel coverage in the valley, the telecomunication tower is already up. We did not see any shops but did not look for them. Altogether, GPT 09 is quite nice, especially now with the snow.

* '''2023-dec-18/ 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-A/ Lukas en Tess'''

As of now the pass on K16,8 is imposible to cross. Going around and taking 09-A is posible but the rock scrambling is a pain. But I would argue the awesome lava field is worth it.
Otherwise the trail was nice and easy, I realy enjoyed the wide open landscape. Arriving in Trapa Trapa we where offered some Harina tostada drink after starting a conversation with some old ladies. We got some cheese at a minishop that is not on the track files. Z37,712542° W71,266816°, something like haloumi, so try roasing it!

* '''2023-Dec-8 to 2023-Dec- 10 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option 2 + cross country for the volcano / Yannick & Nolwenn & Jens'''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : on RR on km 16,8 seems impassable because there was still a lot of snow. Yannick wanted to summit the volcano, he went on the East part and went until 2700m of altitude. The North face had less snow.

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : easy between km 57,9 and km 52,3

- Weather : Sunny

- Resupply : in Abanico a little shop and some cabanas, more options in Antuco, everything you need to resupply there - even gaz canister in the ferreteria

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-10 to 2023-Mar-12 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH-1 / Iris, Alexis '''

After a rest in Trapa Trapa at Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956], we started GPT09 in the morning. The ascent following RR-TL-V {09} [57.4/50.4+9.6] is a well marked horse trail that clims slowly, perfect for a start. Then, the RR-MR-V {09} [41.8/34.9+13.3] is flat and passes through a nice valley, a bit above the river but multiple streams crosses it. Like others, we took 09-C, but had no luck with hitchhiking and ended up walking the 11km. No problem at the border control. We finally ended up camping close to -37.46277, -71.31864 (aim for the big tree, and you will find some camp spot with firepits) after a pretty long day.

On Day 2, we followed the RR and took Option 09-01 to climb the summit. We left most of our gear at the Pass {09} [16.8/2043]. It's better to follow the track for the first part, until the conic shape because it goes along a ridge and avoid pointless ups and down. Then, on the conic shape, you are on your own. We followed a trail made by a group of 8 hikers that were a bit ahead when we found it. It definitely helped as the parts without were really clambering. The views on the top and the small crater made it definitely worthwhile for us. Going down is much more easy and fun, you slide on the sand! As it was late in the season, we did not had any snow on our way but it sill took about 4h to go up (and 1 to go down).
We ended up camping at Campamento Anfiteatro (-37.42427, -71.41517) pretty exhausted. The river here is really chalky but clean water is available from the ice cave.

On Day 3, we took a small detour to see the tunnel of ice (worthy!) and headed down towards Chacay. Then we tried to hitchhike until Abanico with poor luck (on a Sunday morning). Took us 4 rides, but the last one went until Antuco. As there are also limited buses on Sundays, we then did more hitchhike to Los Angeles to ressuply.

A short section but filled with great landscapes and stunning views. Plus you walk in a lava field! Definitely worth it, we really loved it!

* '''2023-Jan-14 to 2023-Jan-16 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + volcan Antuco / Martial / '''

Combined with Section 10.
Laja national Parc was reopened after fire preventive closure on 13/02. Took the bus from LA to Abanico at 4:30PM arriving late at Campamiento viejo (7000$/n) after walking cause poor hitchhiking at this hour (parc closes 17:30). Next morning much more efficient and someone droped me at the start after giving pre-order entry number to CONAF staff (was not important that my ticket was for the previous day).
The ascent to Amphiteatro camping is quick and really well maintained trail. Then i strongly recommend visiting detour to the waterfall for a unique glaciar tunnel walking experience.
Next CC on Antuco’s lava fields was real fun in perfect cloudy weather. Don’t miss the impressive lava bridge !
After reaching the pass early, legs were feeling like summiting Antuco the same day so i decided to search for a high camp. Mission completed here at 2300m : -37.42532, -71.35615 with flat sand next to fresh clean water ponds from the snow. Summiting 2h after setting camp, sunset rewarded me with unique views on laguna Laja and massive Sierra Veluda. Just don’t get caught by the night or bad weather !!
RR descent is sandy and hot traversing a sand deserted bareland so I strongly recommand the O9-C to avoid struggle like I did before shortening to reach the road. Had a meal from a generous family staying at the next Puesto + a hike to piedra del Indio. Then Vegas de Trapa is quick walking MR with lots of puesto and camping option so personally stoped here : -37.57620, -71.24127. Arrived in Trappa next early afternoon for sweet delights in the only shop fenced and garded by 3 dogs. Directly continued to section 10 for reaching puesto at 7.1 wich i also recommand for it’s comfy grassy camping and amable Mapuche family.

* '''2023-Jan-23 to 2023-Jan-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 9c / Maks & Gabi'''

Combined with Section 10.
The road is nice and visible. There is no snow on the pass.
At the entrance to the national park, the guards asked for permission, but when we told them that we were going to Trapa Trapa, they let us go. We slept at the camping inside the park (10000/person).
We took a detour to see a waterfall by the glacier. It was about 4 km go and back.
We camped right outside the national park, by the river. There were a lot of cows but none of them aggressive. We the took the optional route 9c and walked by the carabineros station.No problems there. Just explained that we are going to Trapa Trapa, without crossing the border. They checked out passports and let us go.
There were no further surprises, and the road is really well maintained. Just be careful when going down to Trapa Trapa after rain. It's quite slippery.
There is plenty of water along all the trail.
The shop in Trapa Trapa is marked with a sign on the main road. They have some sweetest and noodles but not much more.

* '''2023-Jan-21 to 2023-Jan-23 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš'''

We really enjoyed this section. We took a bus from Los Angeles to Abanico at 3 o'clock and then hitchhiked to the end of the main road. We arrived at the CONAF control point with no one there (7 p.m.). We slept at the Lagunillas camping, which was for 10000 per person, they had beers, jugos, empanadas, tortillas..We teamed up with Gabi and Max from Poland and enjoyed their company throughout the section (hello! :⁠-⁠)). The ascent to the volcano was amazing, looked like Mordor. Near the point "Campamento Anfiteatro" there's a waterfall that ends in a snowpatch whereby it creates a cave of ice. It's amazing. You can see it from the distance. There's clean water as well, the next clean water is on the other side of the volcano in the valley. We confirm that there's no need to stay away from the carabineros anymore, they only took down our passport numbers. Then it was easy walking until after the pass. We camped at a nice spot in the forest next to the river (S 37° 40.6391' W 071°14.1985). We somehow didn't manage to find the food/lodging point, but were approached by an older lady who fed us cookies and seemed to know a lot about other hikers. There are said to be three shops in Trapa Trapa, we only found the one next to the school which had only biscuits. Continued to GPT10 straight after.

* '''2023-Jan-10 to 2023-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Will '''

Combined with section 10
Nice easy section, loved crossing the fresh crunchy volcanic wasteland at the start. Everything after that was fast trail. Mild temperatures, no horse flies.
I had some trouble getting back from Antuco to the trail. I got told a couple wrong times for the bus, and had no luck during my quick hitchhiking attempt. Eventually caught a bus to abanico at 2, and then two rides got me into the park. The couple driving me spoke for me at the park entrance, and I ended up having to pay 4500 for the entrance. I probably should have gotten out and talked my way through separately.
I stayed at openstreetmap's amphitheater campsite night 1. Nice sheltered spot at the base of sierra velluda, soft sand.
The camp/puesto markers at km 47 seem a bit out of date. There wasn't much at the puesto maker, and there was a puesto right at the campsite marker. The family at the puesto happily let me camp there.

* '''2023-Jan-06 to 2023-Jan-08 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Anna & Christopher '''

Antuco - Trapa Trapa
We hitchhiked from Camping Rucue back to the national park. The landscape was really magnificent the first day. There was almost no snow left after the pass.
After the descent walking gets tougher due to the sand and the path is partially hard to find.
But after the second roadcrossing there is a lot of easy walking on dirt roads.
Atfter leaving the river at around km 47, there is still accessible water in the first part of the small ascent. On the plateau there are no watersources until the descent. We carried some water and camped on the plateau, a very nice spot.
Walking down to Trapa Trapa was really nice. We followed the main route. In retrospective we would have taken option 3, because it is shorter.
We met a couple of locals along the way and they all greated us very nicely. Trapa Trapa was pretty empty when we arrived at around 11 am. We continued right to section 10.

* '''2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Véronica '''

combined GPT09 and GPT10
Route: CONAF waypoint - shoulder of Volcán Antuco - road through border control checkpoint - Trapa Trapa

Two days from national park to Trapa Trapa. From Antuco, I hitched back to the national park and got there around noon. Didn't get charged an entry fee, I just told the entrance staff what trail I planned to take. Nice path most of the way up the volcano, even the CC section has occasional cairns marking the way. You go along a creek as you go up, so lots of accessible water.

Lots of snow on the southeast side of the pass. Tried to go around on the right along/through the rocks, but it's mostly siltstone, very crumbly, and very steep. Got really precarious there so I backtracked to the pass and went around the snow on the left. This involved climbing an additional 150m through volcanic sand, but it felt much safer. The rest of the way down is pretty much all cross-country, couldn't really find a path, but navigation was simple. There were some water sources on the way down too, courtesy of the melting snow.

The next morning, I took Option C that goes along the dirt road. There was no one at the border control checkpoint, probably because I went through before 7 a.m.

Rest of the way to Trapa Trapa is easy, no issues whatsoever. It's nice and forested on the south side of the pass. I didn't investigate resupply or bus options in Trapa Trapa as I went straight through to GPT10.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-01 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain '''

- Camp {09} [47.1/1709] : I slept around 47.5, the place was calm, flat, with grass and close to the water (that was finally not usable because there was too much sand in, but you can easily find drinkable water when going down the valley), many people from the puestos came to talk as it seemed to be the end of the season, it was really pleasant. One offered me to come by him but it was late and I was too tired to move by him, I tried to meet him back the day after but I didn't find his puesto with its indications

- The valley from Puesto {09} [49.3/1820] to Puesto {09} [39.8/1558] : very pleasant, with nice people in, I really liked this place. The water in the middle isn't usable but you can find fresh drinkable water going down from the hills at some points

- There is a Puesto around {09} [37.0/1512], people were nice and asked me if I needed anything

- The way on RR-TL-V {09} just after GPT09-C end isn't easy to find, just stick to the GPS until meeting a road leading to a Puesto close to the river at the Ford on Rio de los Pinos, then it's much easy to follow

- I got an excellent bath when crossing the river close to GPT08-04 end, the water coming from one river was warm and there was enough depth

- the CC from GPT08-04 end to GPT09-02 end was beautiful but demanding because of the soil made of earth and sand, it took me more time than I thought. After having cross the river I got close to an other one with many cows next to it, following it at one point a source of clear drinkable water was running on 3-4m to reach the river

- There is a Campbase with many places cleaned to set up tents and do campfires close to the river following up the road around Bridge {09} [23.3/1409]. It's located at the base of a huge araucaria tree, you can't miss it

- After the RH-CC-A {09} the RH-TL-V {09} is easily findable just by looking at the GPS and is marked with many cairns

- National Park : when leaving it I went to see the guards at the entrance and they were ok with that, didn't ask for any information or fee

* '''2022-Feb-09 to 2022-Feb-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

Took the bus from Antuco to Abanico, got a ride by a friendly Chilean to the national park (no camping allowed). Had to pay entry to the park. Took the CC route avoiding the carabineros to camp in the meadows just beyond the park (S 37° 27.927', W 07). There was a spring emptying in the meadows there. Finished after a long hiking day at Elvira's "lodging, food". Very friendly family, took us in even after 21:00. Understandably there was no goat stew, but we also only payed half price (20.000). Great homemade bread in the morning though :) Continued to GPT10 immediately after.

In the first morning when breaking down camp, we were greeted by two carabineros on horseback, who may have been surprised at the sight of our tent out of sight next to a sand slope. They asked who we were, where we're from and where we're going too, and didn't mind us camping there. No questions about the border with Argentina after. I guess there's no need to stay away from the carabineros here any longer.

* '''2022-Jan-21 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + Antuco summit / Molly and Melissa '''

In Trapa Trapa, we stayed at the house marked "lodging, food". They charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner. Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there.

The path up from Trapa Trapa starts next to the river. Nice path all the way, that transitions to a long gravel road, very easy to follow and many little streams. We camped at the beginning of the next valley at the waypoint "ford". The second to last puesto, on the right hand, belongs to Felizario whose family has the lodging option in Trapa Trapa. He is open to people camping nearby.

The cc section is easy navigation-wise, but the sand is tough to walk in, and it is very exposed. There's little water apart from the fords, but enough. The water coming down from the valley next to Volcan Antuco is very chalky though, and at the waypoint "camp" the stream is all dried up. Further in the valley the water is fine, and it might be possible to find a campsite just before leaving the stream on the optional route.
The building at the "police" waypoint is abandoned. We ended up camping by the carabineros at the "boarder control" waypoint.
While walking on the primary road we were stopped by a boarder control car who wanted to see our passports and pase de movilidad (covid-19) and hear about our route. There were no problems with that. He was very convinced we couldn't cross to Abanico through the pass on the regular route because there wasn't a trail on the other side, but he let us try. Absolutely no snow in the pass on Volcán Antuco's shoulder - apparently it's a very low snow year

Volcán Antuco summit:
We followed the route up, it leads along the ridge to avoid the very strong stream in the valley. This part is not too difficult. The summit itself is very hard, though. It's very steep through loose, big lava rocks that slide everywhere. Tough and a little dangerous. On the other side, the terrain is made of the same kind of rocks for over half of the descent, which makes for a very slow going. Maybe there is a nicer path under the ski lifts, we found one almost in the end. Definitely not worth it for everyone.
The place marked "restaurant, lodging" was closed - apparently they are open only during the ski season. Not too difficult to hitch from there if not too late

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes'''

Overview:
This section has you cross over a volcanic lava field and over a pass at first and then follows trails south thru and area with many puestos and ranches. The first part of this section involves some route finding and cross country while the second half follows well established dirt roads and dirt trails thru grass Valley.

Difficulties:
WARNING: Huge snow field at the top of the pass that is untraversable. It is very steep and must be avoided if not yet melted. Must go around so please be safe. My biggest difficult was the sections across the lava rocks. My shoes were almost destroyed by this point and the sharp, jagged and uneven surface of the lava rock caused so much pain in my feet and completely took out what ever life was left in my trail runners. Also, lots of route finding and cross country in this area.

Highlights: Amazing mountain pass with many views of waterfalls. Glaciers.

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT19) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin '''

Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (mostly) / Frank '''

2 days & continued to GPT10 on 2nd day.
There is at least one place to stay in Abanico & as you go on the road past Abanico towards the park there are a few cabins & one campsite. In the park @ small lake 2K before Conaf1 there is a campsite with cabins. You pay 4000CLP entry @ Conaf but I went in before 8AM, no one there. At the pass, around 2050M on the shoulder of Antuco, I was able to slide down the lowest part of the snowfield. Northbound or earlier in the season you may need to go around it.
Virtually no shade on this route. 3 small shops in Trapa Trapa. Last one, Provisiones Bety, has a rest area, she sometimes has bread.

Went on OH-PR-V@09-B-#002, talked to Carabineros @ Border Control & told them I would stay in Chile & continue to Trapa Trapa. They were OK with that & didn't ask to see my passport, so I would say there is no need to divert around the border post any more.

* '''2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Easy hitch from Abanico to the start of the National Park (~10km into the section). The CONAF station at the park entrance took us longer than expected to pass through and explain what we were doing (they appeared to be unsure as to whether we were crossing the border into Argentina or not). However after explaining our route to them they let us pass without paying the entrance fee to the national park. The cross country sections were easy to navigate and overall the trail was of good quality.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

We passed the big snowfield at the right side through the rocks, as Matus suggested. It was steep but ok and definitively the shorter way around the snow. Nothing to add to the previous comments. In Trapa Trapa we continued straight to Section 10.

* '''2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna '''

GPT09 and GPT10 Season section log.
We combined these two sections.
Trail in both section is in good condition. There is snowfield in first pass as was mentioned. We went left, but it would be worth to check is it's possible to go through rocks on the right as it seems much shorter.
Water is not marked on a map but there is a stream before the pass.
Resuply in Trapa Trapa is very limited. They had few tunas, other caned fish, some pasta, flour, cola, crisps... We didn't check for accomodation.
We stayed in a paid campsite at Laguna el Barco for 5000 both. Around 8 there was a woman selling bread and sweet pastry, but mind that it was weekend.
Resuply in Guallali again very limited. They have tunas, caned fish, pasta, oil, crackers and bit more. We are staying in a house next to the shop.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Antuco
Many smaller supermarkets, which have most things - easy enough to resupply here.
One of the two ferreterías has gas (the one furthest from Abanico).
Many accommodation options and some restaurants.
There is an ATM at the town square which even gives some smaller notes

Also panaderias (one selling good sopaipillas for $300 if you haven't tried yet), restaurants but also food truck, brewery

*Abanico
At least one shop. A pizzeria
Bus to Antuco/Los Angeles

*Parque antuco :
Camping for 10kCLP/pers/night.
Also cabañas for 2 and 4 pers.
Shower almost hot.
No or very bad phone coverage (entel)
Website : https://www.parqueantuco.cl/
The owner is really nice. Possible to give him a call in antuco (when still phone coverage) to know if open.

*Trapa Trapa
3 shops but they are all small. They all have biscuits & soft drinks. First one has ice cream & flour. Second one has pasta, matches, chocolate, canned fish. Third one ( Provisiones Bety) sometimes has bread.

Accomodation in a small room at the waypoint "lodging, food" - 20,000 pesos for dinner, breakfast and accommodation.
10,000 for lunch (soup, tomatoes, harina tostada, tea)

Bus to Ralco

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

Bus from Los Angeles to Antuco about once an hour in daytime. A few of them continue to Abanico or you can hitch fairly easily (also see here: [[Volc%C3%A1n_Antuco#Acceso_en_transporte_p.C3.BAblico_y_autostop]].

Updated January 2022: Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends

- Many people going and coming from the National Park, it hadn't been easy to hitchhike to reach Antuco but it worked

- Bus from Antuco to Santiago - Terminal Sur leaving at 21:30 and arriving at 6:30

Company : Nilahue

$26.300 for semi-cama

Commentaries : "cheap" company, no USB-plugs, not much space for the legs, the bus stop is at the entrance of Antuco coming from the Andes, it's a shelter made of bricks just next to a food truck selling fries and hamburgers

Update nov2024 :

Night bus santiago --> antuco 16k CLP ( not every day but multiple/week). Seets confortables, 2 plugs (TranSantin)

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

Update November 2023: The Chilean Border Control had be relocated and is now closer to the border and not any more on the GPT route. Therefore it is not any more required to sneak around the Chilean Border Control.

This is the only place where it is strongly recommended to sneak around a police station. This recommendation applies in particular to all non-Chileans going southbound.
The reason: The forward border control Pichachen is located about 20 km before the actual border. And only here the regional superiors of the PDI (Policia de Investigation) came up with the silly rule that everyone that passes the border control post towards Argentina gets stamped out of the country regardless if he leaves Chile or not. They simply ignore the fact that a few kilometers down the main road at Piedra del Indio long before reaching Argentina a horse trail diverts towards the next village in Chile called Trapa Trapa. Should you get an exit stamp into your passport but continue to hike in Chile you will be an illegal alien without a valid tourist visa. This may not instantly cause you a problem but the next time you want to leave Chile orderly i.e. from an airport the immigration system will show that you illegally in Chile and the police will assume that you trespassed into Chile. And that’s taken pretty serious. Forget about your flight and your further travel plans.
Every hikers that passed this border control got into some kind of trouble and caused these officers a headache. Some hikers could convince them after long discussions to pass without an exit stamp. Some hikers got and exit stamp and run into problems later. Some hikers pretended to walk back and took a partly overgrown route to walk around the border control. When we hiked this section in January 2014 I got unasked an exit stamp while they “just checked my documents” but luckily after a long talk I could convince them to give me a new entry stamp.
You can’t blame these poor officials at the border control for this situation; they understand these occasional hikers but their regional superiors gave them strict orders. In short: this place is a potential disaster for hikers and hikers are a disturbance for these officials.
Therefore, to avoid this issue I simply rerouted the regular hiking route to bypass the border control post Pichachen. It’s easier for everyone: for the hikers and for the poor police officer that have to comply with this silly order. The re-routed track leads cross country through the normally dry lake bed of the Laguna de Las Lajas and just crosses the main road at the diversion to Trapa Trapa. Walking around the border control may be suspicious but is not illegal and saves everyone nerves and endless discussions. It actually prevents you from getting into an illegal migration status while staying in Chile.
The Regular Packrafting Route anyway bypasses the border control.
Luckily this is the only border control post I’m aware off where such a stupid rule is applied. In many other forward border controls you need to proactively approach the police and request your exit stamp if you plan to leave Chile. Should you just visit the area between the border control and the actual border you can normally just pass or explain your intentions.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT09 - Volcán Antuco]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT09-Laguna_de_las_Lajas.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT09 (Volcan Antuco)

2025-02-05T15:44:04Z

Juliasbrain: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2024-01-29 to 2024-01-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 09A / Chris & Julia'''

Day 1: stayed in Antuco (Details in Log of section 8), took bus in the morning at 8:20 to Abanico and hitched from there a bit further until the track starts (off the MR). At the parque national checkpoint we had to explain a bit. It seems you should buy some ticket beforehand online. Since there was no internet reception, this was not possible on the spot. As we left for Trapa Trapa, they let us pass anyhow (we couldn't just pay in cash). The pass is really beautiful, last chance to get water is in the river one is loosely following, flowing on the right. Once it deviates, it becomes a bit dry until descending after the pass into the valley. The pass is super exciting and beautiful. There we aimed for the marked campspot, that little cave next to the police, but were surprised to find a construction site short before. We talked to the owners, they are building a restaurant with campsite and are offering tours up vulcan antuco. They were super friendly, let us stay somewhere in the bush for free and were even allowed to use their cantine-bus for our meals, which was super nice to sit upright and less exposed :) we enjoyed that a lot. In the future they want to also rent ice gear to climb antuco from the southern side which is way less demanding.

Day 2: hiked along the MR, border control post manned, but not operating as a control post anymore. We weren't able to catch a ride for some time, but finally hitched the last 6km until the path splits off to the right. From there its mostly boring MR, some puestos, many not marked. Wanted to camp at marked Camp [47.1], but there is a puesto now. We went a few hundred meter down the road and found a spot there, closer to the river.

Day 3: it gets more scenic towards the pass (also nice for camping, water at both sides of the pass), after the pass it gets really beautiful all the way down to trapa trapa. Last bit is a bit tricky to navigate in the river bed.
In Trapa Trapa we had lunch at the food & lodge location. They were really nice, almost same meal as described before but we had to pay 27kCLP for two people.
After that we went to the red house marked. Only sweets, nothing "good". We got 1.2kg of cookies, but decided to continue anyways and went into 10.

Beautiful & boring bits. Resupply and getting out bit tricky.

*'''2024-01-27 to 2024-01-28 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01B+OH02+09C+RR / Dorota Szparaga'''
Day1: After very good breakfast with owners of Camping Antuco I started at 12.00. I have decided take lower variant I was afraid of snow at pass. Var OH1B+OH2 leads on comfortable MR with views on Laguna Laja and Volcanos. Near the trail there are a lot of monuments. In 2005 was tragedy. A.lot od young soldiers dead in snow storm. At point OH02 (9.2/1409) there is now refugio, only signs. I took water in refugio of Police OH09C (1.1/1475). At border control nobody was interested in me. I joined RR at km 34.9/1495. Camp after Ford 37.0/1512. Water level very low.

Day2: It was very hot but not problem with water. In puesto 47.1/1709 women made me fresh tortilla in fire for 5000 CLP. In Trapa Trapa in Shop (Red House) near point lodging Almonte nothing : only software drinks, sweets. Night at Lodging, Food with Mapuche family. Total 35000 clp for bed, breakfast and dinner. They were polite and very Quick prepare me place for night in spite of the fact that I arrived at 19.00. A girl of 12 years old talk to me a lot.

*''' 2025-Jan-22 to 2025-Jan-23 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Janboro '''

I combined GPT 09, 10 and 11 and took 6,5 days in total.

Day 1

Spent the night before my departure at the cabaña that belongs to Roca Café right next to the last bus stop and is run by Checo.

Tried to hitchhike to the place where Farah and I stopped the day before, but wasn’t successful. So I took an “Uber”: a local guy who offered to drive me to Piedra del Indio for 50 luca. There, I started my hike in the late afternoon.

The walk up the valley was straightforward, lots of water and easy terrain.

I had plenty of encounters with puesto dogs that weren’t all too happy about my uninvited visit on their territory, with one being scary: At the puesto at [46.9/1709], two dogs aggressively barked and approached me while I was still more than a hundred meters away. No owners in sight and nobody reacted to my “holas”. Picking up stones as recommended in the manual didn’t keep the dogs from coming closer, so I decided to turn around, walked back around a hundred meters, crossed the river and made a big detour around the Puesto. I camped one or two kilometers upstream next to the river. Later in the evening, I saw the dueños coming back to their puesto on horses.

Day 2

The next morning I ascended the rest of the valley, had another two dogs barking aggressively and approaching me at Puesto at [49.3/1820]. This time picking up stones kept them at a distance of two meters. Also, their dueños were at home and eventually got their dogs to calm down and turn around.

Shortly after the pass at [50.4/1878], I met a Pehuenche arriero who was on his way to his cattle in Antuco. Had a brief, nice chat with him and continued my descent.

Way down also with easy terrain and a lot of water. At times the way is pretty steep though and I slipped two times in the sandy underground and fell on my butt.

At the outskirts of Trapa Trapa I accidentally took the wrong way, walked through a gate and one to two hundred meters later found myself in a fenced-off private property, with two aggressively barking dogs approaching me, one from the front, one from the back. I yelled: “hola?” and a Pehuenche lady came and dot the dogs to leave me alone. Thanked her and apologized a couple of times. Her son opened the exit gate for me, I asked him if I was going the wrong way, he confirmed and pointed towards the correct way.

In Trapa Trapa I searched for the shop and found it at the location, Ivan, Jakub and Daniel indicated. The selection of products was very limited, but I stilll had plenty of food so I only bought an ice cream and a pack of chicky bum. Continued through Trapa Trapa towards GPT10.

*'''2025-Jan-19 to 2025-Jan-20 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / 09-01A, 09-02 / Farah & Jan '''

Day 1

Started at Park Ranger [8.4/1110]. Decided to avoid the CC on the RR as Farah’s knee was still not fully recovered from GPT06 and took the MR (09-02) instead. Took the 09-01A detour, then a pizza break at the Antuco Basecamp. Lots of traffic on the MR, so we ate a lot of dust. Camped around 2 km behind the Monument of the Tragedy of Antuco {09-02} [3.4/1416] right next Laguna Laja.

Day 2

Continued on the MR, still lots of dust, and camped at S 37°27.977' W 71°18.332' in the river bed.

Day 3

The next morning Farahs knee pain got so bad she couldn’t continue, so we decided to tramp back to El Abanico. Close to the camp at {09-C} [1.0/1440], we found a building made of shipping containers and told the people who live there about our problem. Don Leonel, the owner, plans to open a restaurant at that spot within the next 1-2 months. They already have a camping ground with toilets and showers. Ignacio, mountain guide by trade, who works for Leonel, drove us to El Abanico and recommended us to stay at the cabaña of Checo, who also runs Roca Café right next to the last bus stop.

'''2024-Jan-15 to 2024-Jan-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar

''''
We got a ride from our sweet cabaña owner to the entrance to the park. The ranger took our info but we didn't need to pay because we hiked SOBO.

It was rainy and we decided to camp near the waterfall and climb to the pass tomorrow.

2nd day:
All trails were clear and easy.
Camped at (-37.51122, -71.25437).

3rd day:
At approx (-37.51590, -71.25192) there was a puesto, and Maurizio invited us to have breakfast with him (eggs, bread, goat meat leftovers).
We camped near ford [54.9/1423].

4rth day:
Nothing at the resupply waypoint. We asked a teenager (the only person we saw) where is the store. He told us there is no store in Trapa Trapa, but that he might be able to sell us some stuff. He took us to his home, and his parents fed us and sold us some basic food (flour, harina tostada, pasta, honey).

*'''2025-JAN-08 to 2025-JAN-09 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 09C / Alex '''
The pass {09} [16.8/2043] is now open for safe and direct access in both directions. The regular route (RR) still has a challenging ford at Río de los Piños. Instead, I followed 09C.

* ''' 2024-DEC-22 > 23 / 1,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > route > RR > Crête / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : beaucoup au col du volcan
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 2/5
| Danger : neige sur pente raide

Bus de 11h (dimanche) puis auto-stop immédiat jusqu'au depart du sentier.
La seconde moitié de la montée est plus compliquée mais se fait bien. Il y a des cairns dans tous les sens. Enorme congère au col, impossible a faire si la neige est gelée.
J'ai pris la route au pied du volcan car le sentier est faisait un détours non justifié. Au col j'ai pris le sentier de crête. A Trapa Trapa je pensais trouver un resto ou une epicerie mais il n'y a rien a proximité du sentier.

*'''2024-DEC-21 to 2024-DEC-22 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (var. B, C, 03B) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

From the bus stop at the end of section 08 var. 06-B [2.9/734], we set out with supplies for two days. We walked 6 km along the main road Q-45 to the start of section 09. At coordinates -37.3983, -71.43998, we reported at the park gate, filled out a form, and paid the entrance fee to the national park, which was 5,700 CLP per person.

While ascending to the first pass, we crossed a hardened lava field (aprox. 500m), full of sharp rocks. The views of Volcán Antuco and Sierra Velluda were breathtaking there.

At the pass at km 16.8, there was still a significant amount of snow on the southeastern side. We used our siesta pads to slide down about 100 meters of elevation. Since the trail was buried under the snow, we continued cross-country on the snow. From there, we chose variants B and C.

We spent the night after the river crossing at km 37.0. After sunset, a local arriero on horseback came to check on us from a nearby puesto.

The next day, we reached the end of the minor road and, from the pass, opted for variants {09-03} and {09-03B}. In Trapa Trapa, we resupplied with only sweets and instant noodles, as the selection was very limited. However, a kind lady sold us some eggs as well. The small shop is located at coordinates -37.7124106, -71.2564517

'''2024-Dec-18 to 2024-Dec-19 / 1.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (Partly) / Sean & Neele'''

Resupplied at the red shop (S 37.42745, W 71.15386) in trapa trapa, they had ramen cookies, chocolate etc. She also sold us a big loaf of bread. Not great for a full resupply but enough for us to top up for a few days.

Ford 54.9km - would be possible to camp around here if you wanted a short day in or out of trapa trapa. Water is a available from here all the way up and over the pass at the moment.

Ford 33.5km (approx) Crossing Rio de Los pinos on the RR was deep and strong for us at 1pm so we decided to hitch the road instead. Not much traffic but we got picked up by the police.

Pass 16.8km - lots of snow still we decided it was too much for us so hitched to Antuco.

Antuco has plenty of options to resupply. We found one screw top gas canister in the hardware store opposite the plaza. Big supermarket and other hardware stores had the cartridge type.

*'''24-12-06 - 24-12-09 / 3 days / SOBO / RR, OHa / Volker

A wonderful spring hike!
I hitchhiked from Pelluca (close to Antuco) to the camp site Lagunillas. Conaf registration is now on the road. 10K for day visitors, no fee for those, who continue SOBO. The Conaf guy at the spot indicated in the track files already knew from his colleague, that I am coming. Started there at 2.30 p.m. After the first slope very scenic landscape. The pass was completely under snow, so I walked back a bit to the yellow spot (close to the big red spot), found a spot, that fits for one tent. Very windy and cold - but superscenic with Sierra Velluda so close.
Day 2: Volcan Antuco summit. I didn‘t start earlier than 7:15 as I wanted the sun to melt the surface of the snow before I arrive at the steep slope to the summit. If it‘s frozen, mini-spikes don‘t help. Arrived at the summit at 10:30 and met two guys from Antuco. Great view up there! Back to my tent at 13:30h, took a long siesta in the afternoon sun, but decided not to spend another night on the cold pass. The access to the RR down was blocked by a vertical snow-wall, even cleavages there. I bypassed both by walking 200m to the right and went down CC on steep snowfields (in the afternoon: no problem). RR under snow until it gets less steep down in the valley. I wanted to spend another night close to the impressive Sierra Velluda, so I went CC to OH09a, found water and a nice spot to camp there.
Day 3: A lazy day. I started late and spent much time just enjoying the landscape. More fords than indicated, all easy, but none with dry feet. A none-indicated ford on RR shortly before gpt08-04 end I found to risky, so I crossed only the right river and followed the river bank to a path on the OSM leading to OH09C. Once on the plain, I went CC to join OH09C at the bridge. Camp close to the puesto at 39.6.
Day 4: Very nice walk on RR in a rapidly changing landscape. First moved very quick, in the forest zone I was slowed down, the trail is partly destroyed by water, later quite steep on unpleasant rubble. All river-crossings (6, including the indicated ford): dry feet. Arrived at Trapa Trapa at 4 p.m. and stayed at the indicated spot on 09-03e, simple accomodation (very, very friendly Mapuche hosts).

* '''2Dec2024 - 3dec2024 / hiking SOBO / OH2 - varC - RH - varD / 1,5 days / Clara'''

Hitchhiking from antuco to camping parque national.

Didn't go at pass 16.8km, seems dangerous as karin said + owner of the camping told me there's too much snow.
Hitchhike to km35. Not many cars but first one took me.

Camp at 47.

Pass at 50.4 : still snow but easy to cross.

Fords : still some thick snow fields melting on the top of some rivers on the way, but easy to cross for now.

Water : plenty at this period

Arrive at Trapa Trapa for lunch. Eat at point food, lodging. Kind and delicious. 10k CLP for harina tostada + soup with vegetables and pastas + tomatoes + lots of bread + tea.

* '''2024-Nov-22 to 2024-Nov-24 / 2.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - option 1, 2 / Karin'''

Camp: campamento amfiteatro / km47

The pass km16 looked doable. And the rangers at the entrance of the parc told me that there is only a small amount of snow. So I decided to take the RR. Snow fields started to appear from about 1860m altitude, but were easily crossable. But the other side of the pass (facing eastwards) is just one big snow field. On the ridge were cracks in the snow, big snow blocks broke out and fell down, and combined with the steepnes of the slope, the risk of avalanches is high. Therefore, I decided to backtrack.

Next day, two guys from the Departamento de obras offered me a ride and drove me to the landmark km35. From there the road is easy to follow with many small streams crossing it. So plenty of water.

At the pass km50, there was still some snow. The streams are sometimes covered by the snow. As I had to cross them, it was either possible to walk around and cross the stream a bit up or down stream, or the snow was still hard and thick enough for me to walk on it. Which was risky, because I could not know if this was the case before doing it. It might become dangerous to cross the snow fields over the streams when the snow melts more and therefore becomes less strong.

The valley to Trapa Trapa is very beautiful. It has a few more fords than indicated, mainly around S 37°40.6835' W071°14.1790' (altitude 1585m).

I stayed in the home of the very nice family, indicated in Trapa Trapa as "Food, lodging", for 2 days because of bad weather.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-03-19 to 2024-03-21 // 2 days (one day off due to the horrible weather) // Hiking // NOBO // RR + VARIANT C + VARIANT B // Quentin Clavel'''

I then continue my way threw GPT 09 (went from GPT 12 to 09 straight).

Easy track to follow all along, until the volcanic plateau. It's kind of an highway of arieros! I met a lot, all very nice, some of them quite curious of what my itinerary looks like.

Pass after trapa trapa was a bit hard because of the heat, and because I began to be a tired, I had to do few breaks.

Then arriving on a plateau, going down and pretty flat after, very well marques, on some part very sandy. After that you arrive on the big straight lines part, that was so exciting for me, the scenery are so nice that I was even a bit happy to walk on gravel roads aha. Weather begun to be very windy on the plateau that reminds me some hard times on the bloody tierra del fuego !

I was absolutely so happy to find an abandoned puesto that was a perfect shelter for an extremely windy, cold and rainy night. This shelter is located few meters on the right after the Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

As the weather was terrible the day after (snow on all the summits around and still heavy rain) I stopped for one day. One local, that live in a puesto around was curious and came by, we discuss and asked for the authorisation to stay there, and he said it was not a problem at all.

Day after was stunning, I was so happy to skip the rain to have this lovely weather for the end of this amazing section !

Took variant C, had nice talks with carabineros, no problem at all to pass there now as long as you explain the situation. This option si very scenic, again, I was amazed from the volcan and the nice geometry of it, and the gravel road who's going on the way.

Then CC on variant B, straight after the big house and the bus that sell food at the middle of nowhere !

I was amazed from the landscapes, antuco volcan for sure, but the amazing siella velluda también !

Teaching the pass, then continuing CC until reaching PK 11,89, and fond a well marked track until the road.

I strongly hesitated to go up to the summit, but as there were a lot of fresh snow and it was pretty windy, I decide to continue my way, still very happy of the scenery I saw there !

Reaching the road, then hitchhiking to antuco + bus to Los Angeles (7pm) for a porper break, before coming back on this point and going to GPT08.

AGAIN, I loved this section !

* '''2024-03-24 to 2024-03-25 / 2 days / SOBO / RR + var D / Marilyne'''

Day 1 - It was Sunday and few buses were running so I took a “taxi” from Antuco to the start of the trail up the pass. (Owner of my lodging called up one of his friends who sometimes drives Uber around town). 15k to go to the National Park. Park rangers told me that I didn’t have to pay entrance fees since I was crossing the park and not coming back the same way.
Many other hikers were there on a Sunday on the first part of the trail. Enjoyed the day very much and thought the scenery was beautiful. People at the puesto next to second ford of Rio de los Pinos offered me to stay with them but I declined as I was hoping to do this section in 2 days and wanted to hike a little further. Camped shortly after Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

Day 2 - Kept going on the RR until Trapa Trapa. Stopped at the kiosco to buy cookies and chocolate (melted as that little hut in the sun gets hot!). Kept going right away on GPT10.

* '''2024-Mar-7 to 2024-Mar-8 / 1.5 days / SOBO / RR 2 C D/ Matthias de Austria'''

Bus from Antuco to Abanico at 8:30am (tell driver you want out at the junction to Abanico). Partly hiked but mostly hitched up to the lake (very little traffic, I was lucky). I choose Variant 2 (an easy road) as my rucksack was so heavy (plan doing Section 9 to 12). Lots of small memorials spreaded out for the soldiers died in a blizzard a few years ago. There was a military training going on, so I passed a lot of small groups of soldiers. All friendly. Later a local familiy asked if I want a ride, sure! We pass the bordercontrol on C2.5km, police just waives us through from a distance. Soon they reach their picknickspot and I continue walking on that long and empty road.

No snowfields, plenty of (unmarked) water, fordings very easy, almost no Tabanos.

Did not see the shop in Trapa-Trapa, but had plenty of food anyway, so put no efford in searching. No cellphone connection in Trapa-Trapa with Movistar.
Nice views of Vulcan Antuco and Laguna de La Laya, otherwise not much to see. Nice, short and easy section (though I did not hiked the pass and had 2 long hitchhikes).

* '''2024 Feb 25 to Feb 28 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

We combined sections 09 and 10 into 5 days of hiking. Beautiful sections with a diversity of landscapes: volcano, meadows, puestos...

Transport to start of section: Albanico
Bus Los Angeles - Albanico at 5 p.m. from rural bus terminal
Hitch-hike to Lagunillas campsite (10,000 pesos pp per night, they also sell empanadas, which are very good, plus there's hot water).

Day 1: Lagunillas campsite - Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)

Lovely day and beautiful volcanic scenery. Not much shade on the climb. Rather pleasant bivouac spot, along the water, with grass and shade, rather cold night as our wet clothes froze at night. Water nearby (estero del volcano)

Day 2: Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)- Camp -37.62833, -71.24444

Beautiful day, with a few easy river crossings (maximum knee-deep). There's plenty of vegetation and shade, which is great for breaks.
The camp spot is just a few meters from a puesto, and they offered to let us pitch our tent. Night still cold (frost).

Day 3: Camp -37.62833, -71.24444 - Trapa Trapa

Easier and shorter day than the others, but we followed it up with the start of section 10 so as not to sleep in Trapa Trapa. Not much choice in the mini-shops in Trapa Trapa.

* '''2024-Feb 09 to Feb 13 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var C, Var D / Michael and Kasia'''

We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.

Day 0 - Feb 8th

We left Antuco around 13:00. It took two hitches to get us to Lagunillas campground (also called Parque Antuco camping). We were lucky that the second car was actually going to the campground and took us right to reception. Posted price was 10.000 CLP pp. There are about 20 campsites. Each had a picnic table and an electrical plugin, and one of the two bathrooms had showers with hot water. We were not blown away by the campground, however we were just coming from a hostel rather than coming out of the mountains, and perspective counts for a lot. They ask you to pack your trash out. They have a small tienda where they sell prepared food, but nothing for resupply.

Day 1 - Feb 9th

From Lagunillas we took an OSM track directly across the road. The trail is clearly marked and maintained. It goes through native forest with nice views of the mountains and lava fields.
There are at least two waterpoints along the way. The OSM trail connects in with RR.

The trail up is fairly well maintained, no brush overgrowth in the path and no places where the trail has collapsed. The path through the lava field was amazing, and the views of Sierra Velluda were spectacular. It is a fairly popular path. On a Friday about 15 other people were on the trail.

We had already decided we wanted to break the pass into two days if possible. We set up camp at the Campamento Anfiteatro or Amphitheatre Camping (-37.42427, -71.41517). It has a nice view of the glacier on Sierra Velluda and some shade in the afternoon.

If deciding to stay at the amphitheater camping area, there is water on the opposite side of the plane. There is a very large waterfall that is visible from a long distance. Walking toward it, a little to the east (left side) is a smaller waterfall that becomes visible about halfway across. It had very clear water and a pool that is easy to access. There was also a stream that appeared in the late evening about 50 m from the campsite but disappeared again overnight.

Day 2 - Feb 10th

There was water shortly after beginning up RR from Anfiteatro for some distance. The path is on the right side of the dry river bed as you are going up. We got confused and walked part way up the left side before realizing and had to backtrack to get to the correct side. There was still one very small snow field on the other side of the pass, but the trail curved around the right side of it so there was no need to walk on it. Expansive views of the valley on the way down. The trail was easy to see and follow most of the way. At the bottom we just went cross country. We camped at the larger of the two araucarias (-37.46186, -71.32047) in what looked like a arriero campground. The campsite at the smaller araucaria shortly before it looked a little nicer but required crossing the river and looked less wind protected.

Day 3 - Feb 11th

We got a late start. It was a Sunday and there was a fair amount of traffic on the road so we decided to go crosscountry from the bridge and cut the loop to connect in with Var C. It was dry in some places, swampy in others, and we eventually had to switch to water shoes to cross the river. It probably didn't save any time, but it was definitely more interesting and avoided getting blasted by dust with every passing car. We rejoined the road on the far side. The afternoon had a cloud cover and actually got fairly cool which made the road walk much more enjoyable. Once we got onto the spur road just before the BCP we didn't see any more cars or people for the rest of the day. We camped on the uphill side of the road around (-37.57617, -71.24087) which looked to be an arriero campground. Very dusty but there was a reasonably flat spot and a small stream nearby.

Day 4 - Feb 12th

We continued on RR. The valley was pretty, not too much happening. There were a lot of puestos but we saw only a couple of people and not too many animals. We stopped at the estero just before heading up to refill water and have lunch. We were initially going to take Opt 3B because it was shorter, but after seeing how exposed it was and some sketchy parts early on, we turned back and opted for RR. The path was easy to follow and actually in pretty good condition. It went through some beautiful forest which also provided some much needed shade. We took Var D down and did not encounter any dangerous scree. This section is also a little shorter than RR and passed by the river so one can refill if necessary. We were glad we took Var D. We decided to camp about 1km before Trappa Trappa along the river around (-37.70803, -71.24448). It was right next to the road, so far from optimal, but it worked.

Day 5 - Feb 13th

We walked into Trappa Trappa around 11:00. It was very windy the entire time we were there, and almost no one around. We first went to the shop with the Kiosko sign, but no one was there. A neighbor came out and told us that the guy works in the school till around 14:00, but would be around later. We then went to the shop indicated by the Provisiones sign. She didn't have a lot. She said the food truck was coming that day around 18:00, so I guess we just got unlucky with the timing. We bought some pasta, cookies, yogurts, Zukos, canned fish, crackers, and she made us sopaipillas for 300 each. They were really good but a very different style from the ones we had had with the arrieros, more pastry-like, fried crispy on the outside but still doughy on the inside and more oily. Very filling but I don't think they would work well to carry. We went back to the Kiosko shop and the guy came when we rang the timbre. He had even less stuff, mostly cookies. We bought a few more things there. Finally we went to the shop just at the beginning of Section 10. It is on the left just as you start down the hill, a corrugated metal wall with a large square cut out of the side that acts like a window and the word “Hola” scratched into the side. She had the least amount of things, but she did have fresh onions and carrots, no cheese (she said she makes it in December and when it's gone that's it for the year). Initially she said she didn't have any bread, but as we were talking with her she offered to sell us a bread, a pan amasado that was huge and dense and served us for three meals. From here we continued into GPT10.

* '''2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH B + C + D / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.8-9.6]

I hitched in the afternoon from Los Angeles to the entrance of the Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja (around km 5.8). From there I hiked to km 9.6. Here are some nice flat spots to camp + you have a nice view over the Rio Laja valley. But there is no water at the spot.

Day 2: RR [9.6-20.7] + OH09-B + OH09-C + RR [34.9-47.4]

Big flat, sandy area around km 11.9 is a good campingspot. There is also a creek flowing not more than 50 meters south of the RR-CC [11.9+4.9]. The RR over the Pass (km 16.8) is completely snow free now. The RR and OH-B cross a creek at km 20.8. There is lots of water on OH B + C + RR [34.9-47.4].

Day 3: RR [47.4-54.6] + OH09-D + RR [56.4-61.5]

Ford at km 52.3 is dry. But the RR cross a bunch of streams around the Pass (km 50.4) and it runs along the river of the valley at km 53.2 for a few 100 meters. I just went through Trapa Trapa and continued directly with section 10.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Trapa-Trapa - El Abanaico / RR + Option 01 + Option B + Option C +Option D / Alex & Christophe'''

We really enjoyed this section even if it wasn't really fast to walk in the sand and lava field.

We didn't have much to add to what has already been written.

We tried to summit the Antuco Volcano bit didn't success because it was too steep and too lose so we stopped at 2700m. I would recommend to take crampons if you want to summit, so you can go in the snow (wich was quite hard, even at 2pm) and it should be easier. What I would however recommend to everyone is to go up to 2300m. It is easy to go from the pass and the panorama is incredible.

We camped after the try on the Volcano at the Amphitheatre Campsite. It was a nice place but I wouldn't recommend it. First, you have to walk a kilometer just to wash yourself and to take some water and second, we had strong wind gusts all night long. The camp is not wind protected.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 2024-Jan-13 / 2 days / SOBO / RR, OH C, OH 03B and OH 03/ Hannes'''

Started in Camping Las Lagunillas at around 7 am. Took me about 4 to 5 hours to the pass. On the way up I found water starting from -37.423109 -71.404405 onwards, followed along. Big stream, should not dry out soon or never(?) during summer. At the pass still to much snow to drop in directly to the path on the other side. Instead of walking upwards to the left towards volcano I took short detour to the right, to come around the snowfield, for me worked out well. Slided then down on the lower and not so steep snowfields to get to a basin. Reached from there the RR…Thought could be tough to ford estero Petronquines on the RR, so took the road (OH C)…Two police stations there, nobody checked me, although cars were at each spot… somehow an annoying road to walk on…you could hitchhike a part of it, there is some traffic, but not to much. I did not. Camped at a beautiful spot at the river -37.511560, -71.259157 a few kms before the landmark. There is life here all along the road, lots of puestos, cows, sheep, goats. Next day again along this endless seeming road up to the pass above Trapa Trapa, water all along, even at the pass…From there I took OH 03B, which is the shorter way to the village, OH03 from
-37.69671, -71.25027 was in some parts a light BB till I got on a good trail which brought me down to Trapa. Descending down the pass to the village you’ll get an other version of Chile. Araucania trees are showing up and you are now in Mapuche region, no more chilean flags at every house down there. End of this sector was for me the biggest change on the GPT so far (having done the sections before from Santiago)…other people, language, culture, other flora…a kind of a very welcoming change. Arriving in Trapa Trapa you could give a try at owner of house at -37.71056, -71.26569, junction OH03 and main road. He offered me camping and food if I couldn’t find something in town. If not there is the usual family who takes guests. Miniminishop is at
-37.71240, -71.26355

* '''2024-Jan-01 to 2024-Jan-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {09-B} - {09-C} - RR - {09-D} - RR / Lilian'''

I combined GPT09+10+11+12, first resupply 6 days food in Antuco, then take 2.5 days for 09, stay in Trapa Trapa(save 2 meals), resupply in Trapa Trapa for 1.5 days food(low stock and limited selection). Then take 2 days for 10, stay in Guallalí(save 2 meals), resupply in Guallalí for 2 days food(low stock and limited selection but better than Trapa Trapa). Lastly 2 days for 11, 4 days for 12)

Nice resupply in Antuco, but most of them are closed because i visit here on the first day of 2024.

A friendly local give me a ride to the entrance of national park, thank you so much to him! There are some beautiful waterfalls start at RR km2.3 to km4.7, remember to take a look, they are at the mountain side(right side)! Lot of families come to here for enjoy their holidays.

RR km5.7 : ranger station for vehicles and people control for entering the park. Super nice and let me go in after i told them my route, no need to pay any fee or show any permits.

Park ranger[8.4/1110] : look like is a ranger station, didn't see anyone when I passed here on 5.30pm.

Km9.7 : flat area, you can camp here if need, but no water.

Km11.25 - km11.9 : lava trail, there are some rock cairn for you to follow, not difficult.

Km11.9 : if you continue going south at the RR sharp turning, about 200m you will met a stream, flowing good with cold and clear water, flat spots nearby too, but I'm not sure it will dry up or not.

Follow rock cairn to the pass, mostly you'll lost the trail and cairn at km15.6, look at the right side, go down the dry riverbed then climb up to the other side, you'll find cairn again. Don't walk in riverbed, they'll block your way at the end.

Still lot of snow after the pass, follow Véronica's comment, climb up the ridge to compass NE ( I walk on the top of snow slope, because it is flat and gentle, also i think it is easier than walking on loose sand.)

At about 2150m, there is a break without snow, a sandy slope that you can walk down. ( -37.43215, -71.36002 )

Not steep, i think is easy go down but slow, so when i go down a little, i go back to south side to join the snow slope for fast moving, snow slope becomes more gentle when it gets lower.

By the way, you can climb up and go down the pass without stepping on any snow now.

Km20.7 : you'll find car track here, you can follow it to dirt road, i take {09-B} here, avoid crossing Petronquines(RR km28.9) at downstream. {09-B} is something look like a very old car track on the ground, no cars running on it anymore, easy walking but not easy to follow.

{09-B} km1.15 : crossing of Estero El Aguada o El Volcán ( a long name), a stream. A very good crossing point, stream break to 6 parts here, all below half of calf at afternoon. Flowing nice with clear water.

After the crossing, i can't find any trail or car track on the other side, but after i keep going CC about 400m, a dirt road in good condition at mountain side, it'll lead you to the main dirt road and join {09-C}.

Bridge {09-C} [1.7/1417] : milky water.

Border control CL[2.5/1420] : gate for vehicles but not for people. Didn't see anyone when I passed here at 5pm.

Km3.7: excellent view point of Volcán Antuco and meadows.

Bridge[5.3/1444] : crossing Petronquines on a bridge, beautiful view and lot of clear water, maybe it is difficult to cross it at downstream (RR) as now. Look like you can camp beside, or under the bridge. But every 0.5 - 1 hour have a border control vehicle patroling the road, I don't know camping beside this road is it a good idea.

Bridge[7.3/1470] : clear water but no flat spots.

X RR[34.9/1495] : rejoin RR.

Ford[37.0/1512] : below half of calf at late afternoon.

Km39.4 - pass[50.4/1878] : lot of stream crossing the road, have 1-2 need wet feet crossing, just beside the pass is a stream flowing too.

Pass[50.4/1878] : beautiful grassland, flat and nice for camping, but 20+cows when I passed here.

RR-TL-V{09} [50.4+9.6] is a nice and maintained trail ,easy to follow, sometimes you'll find orange ribbon leads where you go.

Ford[52.3/1648] : no river crossing here.

Km53.15 - km53.65 : you need to cross the stream 4 times, then walk in the stream about 50m, but all dry feet crossing, rock hopping or log bridge will help you.

Km54.55 : junction of RR and {09-D}, but i miss the turning to RR, so i go for {09-D}.

{09-D} km0.4: river crossing, rock hopping for dry feet. Also a small grassland can fit 1-3 tents after the crossing 150m.

Km0.6 : a stream flowing good crossing the trail with a tiny waterfall, you can sit under it to enjoy a cool shower in a hot day. Look like the other side of river have a nice grassland for camping can fit 2-4 tents, but wet feet crossing.

Km1.1 : rejoin RR.

Viewpoint RR [57.4/1338] : if you are SOBO, it is the first view of Volcán Callaqui. Also nice view of Trapa Trapa.

Km58.6 : CAUTION, if you see a red ribbon, DON'T keep going, you are not on the trail, turn back immediately and check your GPS. RR trail is a sharp turning then go down, you are walking away from the trail and towards a very steep slope now.

Km58.95 : RR have some reroute at here, but mostly you can follow the only trail to main road.

I stayed at Trapa Trapa with the lovely family at (Lodging,food) waypoint. Simple single room with bed, quilt, chair, light and electric charger, also dinner and breakfast. I buy some sausage from the shop nearby and share with all people here. They are very exciting where i come from, what I'm doing, and what interesting things happened when I'm hiking, it is a warm night, i love them! And they invited me to watch their sterilization of horse, OMG OMG OMG, so shock to me, OMG.

Shop (-37.71249,-71.25642) : at compass West of (Lodging,food) waypoint, very close just 2 min walking. Two red house here, the small one is shop. Selling drinks, ice cream, biscuits, pasta, coffee, tea and some frozen meat( mostly is sausage). This shop have a sign on the main road, no sign at the front gate and the gate is opened.

* '''2023 Dec 28 to Dec 29 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / Option 2 + RR+ 09-C/ Ella'''

TLDR: no issue at border control. don’t count on Lagunillas Camping cafeteria or the Lodging, Food waypoint in Trapa Trapa

Bussed from Los Angeles to Abanico - make sure to go to the terminal for rural busses which will be different from where you might get off an intercity bus. Hitched from there to Lagunillas Camping. Campground was nice and spacious. The host is really kind and helpful. The cafeteria was not open for food when I was there, just coffee and tea.
Day 1: Due to a stormy forecast, I chose to avoid the already sketchy-seeming pass and head for the route around the lake (option 2). To get there, I took the small trails around the main road heading east from the campground, which were scenic for a cloudy day with no mountain view - enjoyed the volcanic landscape and the waterfall Salto Las Chilcas. I then was able to hitch a ride on the road beside the lake to the other side of the Volcano, which was good because there didn’t appear to be many streams or campsite options. I continued on by foot on Variant C. I went through border control and the officer was very thorough, but didn’t try to give me an exit stamp when I explained I wasn’t going to cross the border. He mostly seemed concerned that I was alone and tried to offer food and a bathroom! I camped a few kilometers further along that road by one of the streams that crosses it. Beware of aggressive bulls in the area.

Day 2: Easy walking all the way to the pass. Water is still available about every kilometer or two along this route. After the pass there are a few points with a bit of landslide risk where you’re walking on very unstable skree. In retrospect it seems Variant D may exist to avoid some of this but I can’t be sure because I didn’t take it. When I got to Trapa Trapa I was dismayed to find no one at the lodging and food point that others had raved about. The small market just beside this point (sign for “provisions” is only on the main road. looks like a small house with the front painted red next to a larger house) was indeed open at 6pm on a Friday after I called out. There were many types of biscuits and cold drinks, pasta sauce (no pasta), coffee, and maybe even some type of meat in the freezer that I wasn’t quite daring enough to buy. Highly recommend the calorific Chiky Bum biscuits for avoiding mental collapse after a nearly 30km day. I asked the owner about the lodging option next door and she said the family was away for a few days, so guess I just got unlucky. Further down the road towards GPT 10 where there is sign “Kiosco”, there’s also a small ice cream shop/market that was closed when I arrived. I didn’t find another market. Went back up the GPT 09 trail just a bit to get out of town and found a nice camping spot along the river for the night. Visits from goats and a baby horse were a welcome occurrence. No Entel service in Trapa Trapa.

* '''2023 Dec 20 to Dec 22 / 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-C/ Tomáš & Natalie'''

We took a bus at 19:00 from Los Angeles (which has a great system of shared taxis with fixed routes, number eight goes from the big bus station to Jumbo and back to rural bus station for 1000 per person) to Albanico and upon arriving there after five minutes, the first passing car took us to the border of the national park. We pitched our tent in the delta of the river not far from the road but not visible from it. Without the smoke of last year and with the yellow of brooms everywhere and Antuco under snow, the valley was extremely pretty.

The next day we talked to a CONAF ranger, he said an Argentinian hiker told him there was ice in the pass. We did not pay anything. [Including a nice trail that is on OSM in our suggestions to avoid roadwalking from the Rangers office to the RR up].

The climb is pretty, in the pass there was a lot of snow. We followed Véronica's suggestion from last year and climbed about 100 m of elevation to the east and then ran down on the snow (see picture here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1720553588450520/ ). The path in the valley was rather invisible. Two lone araucaria trees guard the road. We thought Rio de los Pines would be impossible to ford now with all the thawing (others seem to have passed though) so we took variant C along the main road to Argentina. Carabinieros just looked at our passports and let us go. A car passed about every half an hour. The valley is stunning yet the roadwalk is a drudge. The following minor road seems virtually never to be driven by cars and is in places badly damaged by water. The valley up is nice.

Going down to Trapa-Trapa, about 1 km after the pass, the path is eroded and new one was created going down to the water. The walk down through the forrest was quite pleasant. We met several groups of arrieros on both side of the pass, they were nice.

In Trapa-Trapa, we had lunch at "Lodging, Food" waypoint. We could not see any sign. We got tomatoes, cheese, bread, pasta, a piece of down fried in oil (tasty) and maté. We paid them a good price for it, we hope it was not too much. From March 2024, there should be (probably) Entel coverage in the valley, the telecomunication tower is already up. We did not see any shops but did not look for them. Altogether, GPT 09 is quite nice, especially now with the snow.

* '''2023-dec-18/ 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-A/ Lukas en Tess'''

As of now the pass on K16,8 is imposible to cross. Going around and taking 09-A is posible but the rock scrambling is a pain. But I would argue the awesome lava field is worth it.
Otherwise the trail was nice and easy, I realy enjoyed the wide open landscape. Arriving in Trapa Trapa we where offered some Harina tostada drink after starting a conversation with some old ladies. We got some cheese at a minishop that is not on the track files. Z37,712542° W71,266816°, something like haloumi, so try roasing it!

* '''2023-Dec-8 to 2023-Dec- 10 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option 2 + cross country for the volcano / Yannick & Nolwenn & Jens'''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : on RR on km 16,8 seems impassable because there was still a lot of snow. Yannick wanted to summit the volcano, he went on the East part and went until 2700m of altitude. The North face had less snow.

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : easy between km 57,9 and km 52,3

- Weather : Sunny

- Resupply : in Abanico a little shop and some cabanas, more options in Antuco, everything you need to resupply there - even gaz canister in the ferreteria

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-10 to 2023-Mar-12 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH-1 / Iris, Alexis '''

After a rest in Trapa Trapa at Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956], we started GPT09 in the morning. The ascent following RR-TL-V {09} [57.4/50.4+9.6] is a well marked horse trail that clims slowly, perfect for a start. Then, the RR-MR-V {09} [41.8/34.9+13.3] is flat and passes through a nice valley, a bit above the river but multiple streams crosses it. Like others, we took 09-C, but had no luck with hitchhiking and ended up walking the 11km. No problem at the border control. We finally ended up camping close to -37.46277, -71.31864 (aim for the big tree, and you will find some camp spot with firepits) after a pretty long day.

On Day 2, we followed the RR and took Option 09-01 to climb the summit. We left most of our gear at the Pass {09} [16.8/2043]. It's better to follow the track for the first part, until the conic shape because it goes along a ridge and avoid pointless ups and down. Then, on the conic shape, you are on your own. We followed a trail made by a group of 8 hikers that were a bit ahead when we found it. It definitely helped as the parts without were really clambering. The views on the top and the small crater made it definitely worthwhile for us. Going down is much more easy and fun, you slide on the sand! As it was late in the season, we did not had any snow on our way but it sill took about 4h to go up (and 1 to go down).
We ended up camping at Campamento Anfiteatro (-37.42427, -71.41517) pretty exhausted. The river here is really chalky but clean water is available from the ice cave.

On Day 3, we took a small detour to see the tunnel of ice (worthy!) and headed down towards Chacay. Then we tried to hitchhike until Abanico with poor luck (on a Sunday morning). Took us 4 rides, but the last one went until Antuco. As there are also limited buses on Sundays, we then did more hitchhike to Los Angeles to ressuply.

A short section but filled with great landscapes and stunning views. Plus you walk in a lava field! Definitely worth it, we really loved it!

* '''2023-Jan-14 to 2023-Jan-16 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + volcan Antuco / Martial / '''

Combined with Section 10.
Laja national Parc was reopened after fire preventive closure on 13/02. Took the bus from LA to Abanico at 4:30PM arriving late at Campamiento viejo (7000$/n) after walking cause poor hitchhiking at this hour (parc closes 17:30). Next morning much more efficient and someone droped me at the start after giving pre-order entry number to CONAF staff (was not important that my ticket was for the previous day).
The ascent to Amphiteatro camping is quick and really well maintained trail. Then i strongly recommend visiting detour to the waterfall for a unique glaciar tunnel walking experience.
Next CC on Antuco’s lava fields was real fun in perfect cloudy weather. Don’t miss the impressive lava bridge !
After reaching the pass early, legs were feeling like summiting Antuco the same day so i decided to search for a high camp. Mission completed here at 2300m : -37.42532, -71.35615 with flat sand next to fresh clean water ponds from the snow. Summiting 2h after setting camp, sunset rewarded me with unique views on laguna Laja and massive Sierra Veluda. Just don’t get caught by the night or bad weather !!
RR descent is sandy and hot traversing a sand deserted bareland so I strongly recommand the O9-C to avoid struggle like I did before shortening to reach the road. Had a meal from a generous family staying at the next Puesto + a hike to piedra del Indio. Then Vegas de Trapa is quick walking MR with lots of puesto and camping option so personally stoped here : -37.57620, -71.24127. Arrived in Trappa next early afternoon for sweet delights in the only shop fenced and garded by 3 dogs. Directly continued to section 10 for reaching puesto at 7.1 wich i also recommand for it’s comfy grassy camping and amable Mapuche family.

* '''2023-Jan-23 to 2023-Jan-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 9c / Maks & Gabi'''

Combined with Section 10.
The road is nice and visible. There is no snow on the pass.
At the entrance to the national park, the guards asked for permission, but when we told them that we were going to Trapa Trapa, they let us go. We slept at the camping inside the park (10000/person).
We took a detour to see a waterfall by the glacier. It was about 4 km go and back.
We camped right outside the national park, by the river. There were a lot of cows but none of them aggressive. We the took the optional route 9c and walked by the carabineros station.No problems there. Just explained that we are going to Trapa Trapa, without crossing the border. They checked out passports and let us go.
There were no further surprises, and the road is really well maintained. Just be careful when going down to Trapa Trapa after rain. It's quite slippery.
There is plenty of water along all the trail.
The shop in Trapa Trapa is marked with a sign on the main road. They have some sweetest and noodles but not much more.

* '''2023-Jan-21 to 2023-Jan-23 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš'''

We really enjoyed this section. We took a bus from Los Angeles to Abanico at 3 o'clock and then hitchhiked to the end of the main road. We arrived at the CONAF control point with no one there (7 p.m.). We slept at the Lagunillas camping, which was for 10000 per person, they had beers, jugos, empanadas, tortillas..We teamed up with Gabi and Max from Poland and enjoyed their company throughout the section (hello! :⁠-⁠)). The ascent to the volcano was amazing, looked like Mordor. Near the point "Campamento Anfiteatro" there's a waterfall that ends in a snowpatch whereby it creates a cave of ice. It's amazing. You can see it from the distance. There's clean water as well, the next clean water is on the other side of the volcano in the valley. We confirm that there's no need to stay away from the carabineros anymore, they only took down our passport numbers. Then it was easy walking until after the pass. We camped at a nice spot in the forest next to the river (S 37° 40.6391' W 071°14.1985). We somehow didn't manage to find the food/lodging point, but were approached by an older lady who fed us cookies and seemed to know a lot about other hikers. There are said to be three shops in Trapa Trapa, we only found the one next to the school which had only biscuits. Continued to GPT10 straight after.

* '''2023-Jan-10 to 2023-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Will '''

Combined with section 10
Nice easy section, loved crossing the fresh crunchy volcanic wasteland at the start. Everything after that was fast trail. Mild temperatures, no horse flies.
I had some trouble getting back from Antuco to the trail. I got told a couple wrong times for the bus, and had no luck during my quick hitchhiking attempt. Eventually caught a bus to abanico at 2, and then two rides got me into the park. The couple driving me spoke for me at the park entrance, and I ended up having to pay 4500 for the entrance. I probably should have gotten out and talked my way through separately.
I stayed at openstreetmap's amphitheater campsite night 1. Nice sheltered spot at the base of sierra velluda, soft sand.
The camp/puesto markers at km 47 seem a bit out of date. There wasn't much at the puesto maker, and there was a puesto right at the campsite marker. The family at the puesto happily let me camp there.

* '''2023-Jan-06 to 2023-Jan-08 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Anna & Christopher '''

Antuco - Trapa Trapa
We hitchhiked from Camping Rucue back to the national park. The landscape was really magnificent the first day. There was almost no snow left after the pass.
After the descent walking gets tougher due to the sand and the path is partially hard to find.
But after the second roadcrossing there is a lot of easy walking on dirt roads.
Atfter leaving the river at around km 47, there is still accessible water in the first part of the small ascent. On the plateau there are no watersources until the descent. We carried some water and camped on the plateau, a very nice spot.
Walking down to Trapa Trapa was really nice. We followed the main route. In retrospective we would have taken option 3, because it is shorter.
We met a couple of locals along the way and they all greated us very nicely. Trapa Trapa was pretty empty when we arrived at around 11 am. We continued right to section 10.

* '''2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Véronica '''

combined GPT09 and GPT10
Route: CONAF waypoint - shoulder of Volcán Antuco - road through border control checkpoint - Trapa Trapa

Two days from national park to Trapa Trapa. From Antuco, I hitched back to the national park and got there around noon. Didn't get charged an entry fee, I just told the entrance staff what trail I planned to take. Nice path most of the way up the volcano, even the CC section has occasional cairns marking the way. You go along a creek as you go up, so lots of accessible water.

Lots of snow on the southeast side of the pass. Tried to go around on the right along/through the rocks, but it's mostly siltstone, very crumbly, and very steep. Got really precarious there so I backtracked to the pass and went around the snow on the left. This involved climbing an additional 150m through volcanic sand, but it felt much safer. The rest of the way down is pretty much all cross-country, couldn't really find a path, but navigation was simple. There were some water sources on the way down too, courtesy of the melting snow.

The next morning, I took Option C that goes along the dirt road. There was no one at the border control checkpoint, probably because I went through before 7 a.m.

Rest of the way to Trapa Trapa is easy, no issues whatsoever. It's nice and forested on the south side of the pass. I didn't investigate resupply or bus options in Trapa Trapa as I went straight through to GPT10.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-01 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain '''

- Camp {09} [47.1/1709] : I slept around 47.5, the place was calm, flat, with grass and close to the water (that was finally not usable because there was too much sand in, but you can easily find drinkable water when going down the valley), many people from the puestos came to talk as it seemed to be the end of the season, it was really pleasant. One offered me to come by him but it was late and I was too tired to move by him, I tried to meet him back the day after but I didn't find his puesto with its indications

- The valley from Puesto {09} [49.3/1820] to Puesto {09} [39.8/1558] : very pleasant, with nice people in, I really liked this place. The water in the middle isn't usable but you can find fresh drinkable water going down from the hills at some points

- There is a Puesto around {09} [37.0/1512], people were nice and asked me if I needed anything

- The way on RR-TL-V {09} just after GPT09-C end isn't easy to find, just stick to the GPS until meeting a road leading to a Puesto close to the river at the Ford on Rio de los Pinos, then it's much easy to follow

- I got an excellent bath when crossing the river close to GPT08-04 end, the water coming from one river was warm and there was enough depth

- the CC from GPT08-04 end to GPT09-02 end was beautiful but demanding because of the soil made of earth and sand, it took me more time than I thought. After having cross the river I got close to an other one with many cows next to it, following it at one point a source of clear drinkable water was running on 3-4m to reach the river

- There is a Campbase with many places cleaned to set up tents and do campfires close to the river following up the road around Bridge {09} [23.3/1409]. It's located at the base of a huge araucaria tree, you can't miss it

- After the RH-CC-A {09} the RH-TL-V {09} is easily findable just by looking at the GPS and is marked with many cairns

- National Park : when leaving it I went to see the guards at the entrance and they were ok with that, didn't ask for any information or fee

* '''2022-Feb-09 to 2022-Feb-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

Took the bus from Antuco to Abanico, got a ride by a friendly Chilean to the national park (no camping allowed). Had to pay entry to the park. Took the CC route avoiding the carabineros to camp in the meadows just beyond the park (S 37° 27.927', W 07). There was a spring emptying in the meadows there. Finished after a long hiking day at Elvira's "lodging, food". Very friendly family, took us in even after 21:00. Understandably there was no goat stew, but we also only payed half price (20.000). Great homemade bread in the morning though :) Continued to GPT10 immediately after.

In the first morning when breaking down camp, we were greeted by two carabineros on horseback, who may have been surprised at the sight of our tent out of sight next to a sand slope. They asked who we were, where we're from and where we're going too, and didn't mind us camping there. No questions about the border with Argentina after. I guess there's no need to stay away from the carabineros here any longer.

* '''2022-Jan-21 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + Antuco summit / Molly and Melissa '''

In Trapa Trapa, we stayed at the house marked "lodging, food". They charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner. Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there.

The path up from Trapa Trapa starts next to the river. Nice path all the way, that transitions to a long gravel road, very easy to follow and many little streams. We camped at the beginning of the next valley at the waypoint "ford". The second to last puesto, on the right hand, belongs to Felizario whose family has the lodging option in Trapa Trapa. He is open to people camping nearby.

The cc section is easy navigation-wise, but the sand is tough to walk in, and it is very exposed. There's little water apart from the fords, but enough. The water coming down from the valley next to Volcan Antuco is very chalky though, and at the waypoint "camp" the stream is all dried up. Further in the valley the water is fine, and it might be possible to find a campsite just before leaving the stream on the optional route.
The building at the "police" waypoint is abandoned. We ended up camping by the carabineros at the "boarder control" waypoint.
While walking on the primary road we were stopped by a boarder control car who wanted to see our passports and pase de movilidad (covid-19) and hear about our route. There were no problems with that. He was very convinced we couldn't cross to Abanico through the pass on the regular route because there wasn't a trail on the other side, but he let us try. Absolutely no snow in the pass on Volcán Antuco's shoulder - apparently it's a very low snow year

Volcán Antuco summit:
We followed the route up, it leads along the ridge to avoid the very strong stream in the valley. This part is not too difficult. The summit itself is very hard, though. It's very steep through loose, big lava rocks that slide everywhere. Tough and a little dangerous. On the other side, the terrain is made of the same kind of rocks for over half of the descent, which makes for a very slow going. Maybe there is a nicer path under the ski lifts, we found one almost in the end. Definitely not worth it for everyone.
The place marked "restaurant, lodging" was closed - apparently they are open only during the ski season. Not too difficult to hitch from there if not too late

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes'''

Overview:
This section has you cross over a volcanic lava field and over a pass at first and then follows trails south thru and area with many puestos and ranches. The first part of this section involves some route finding and cross country while the second half follows well established dirt roads and dirt trails thru grass Valley.

Difficulties:
WARNING: Huge snow field at the top of the pass that is untraversable. It is very steep and must be avoided if not yet melted. Must go around so please be safe. My biggest difficult was the sections across the lava rocks. My shoes were almost destroyed by this point and the sharp, jagged and uneven surface of the lava rock caused so much pain in my feet and completely took out what ever life was left in my trail runners. Also, lots of route finding and cross country in this area.

Highlights: Amazing mountain pass with many views of waterfalls. Glaciers.

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT19) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin '''

Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (mostly) / Frank '''

2 days & continued to GPT10 on 2nd day.
There is at least one place to stay in Abanico & as you go on the road past Abanico towards the park there are a few cabins & one campsite. In the park @ small lake 2K before Conaf1 there is a campsite with cabins. You pay 4000CLP entry @ Conaf but I went in before 8AM, no one there. At the pass, around 2050M on the shoulder of Antuco, I was able to slide down the lowest part of the snowfield. Northbound or earlier in the season you may need to go around it.
Virtually no shade on this route. 3 small shops in Trapa Trapa. Last one, Provisiones Bety, has a rest area, she sometimes has bread.

Went on OH-PR-V@09-B-#002, talked to Carabineros @ Border Control & told them I would stay in Chile & continue to Trapa Trapa. They were OK with that & didn't ask to see my passport, so I would say there is no need to divert around the border post any more.

* '''2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Easy hitch from Abanico to the start of the National Park (~10km into the section). The CONAF station at the park entrance took us longer than expected to pass through and explain what we were doing (they appeared to be unsure as to whether we were crossing the border into Argentina or not). However after explaining our route to them they let us pass without paying the entrance fee to the national park. The cross country sections were easy to navigate and overall the trail was of good quality.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

We passed the big snowfield at the right side through the rocks, as Matus suggested. It was steep but ok and definitively the shorter way around the snow. Nothing to add to the previous comments. In Trapa Trapa we continued straight to Section 10.

* '''2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna '''

GPT09 and GPT10 Season section log.
We combined these two sections.
Trail in both section is in good condition. There is snowfield in first pass as was mentioned. We went left, but it would be worth to check is it's possible to go through rocks on the right as it seems much shorter.
Water is not marked on a map but there is a stream before the pass.
Resuply in Trapa Trapa is very limited. They had few tunas, other caned fish, some pasta, flour, cola, crisps... We didn't check for accomodation.
We stayed in a paid campsite at Laguna el Barco for 5000 both. Around 8 there was a woman selling bread and sweet pastry, but mind that it was weekend.
Resuply in Guallali again very limited. They have tunas, caned fish, pasta, oil, crackers and bit more. We are staying in a house next to the shop.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Antuco
Many smaller supermarkets, which have most things - easy enough to resupply here.
One of the two ferreterías has gas (the one furthest from Abanico).
Many accommodation options and some restaurants.
There is an ATM at the town square which even gives some smaller notes

Also panaderias (one selling good sopaipillas for $300 if you haven't tried yet), restaurants but also food truck, brewery

*Abanico
At least one shop. A pizzeria
Bus to Antuco/Los Angeles

*Parque antuco :
Camping for 10kCLP/pers/night.
Also cabañas for 2 and 4 pers.
Shower almost hot.
No or very bad phone coverage (entel)
Website : https://www.parqueantuco.cl/
The owner is really nice. Possible to give him a call in antuco (when still phone coverage) to know if open.

*Trapa Trapa
3 shops but they are all small. They all have biscuits & soft drinks. First one has ice cream & flour. Second one has pasta, matches, chocolate, canned fish. Third one ( Provisiones Bety) sometimes has bread.

Accomodation in a small room at the waypoint "lodging, food" - 20,000 pesos for dinner, breakfast and accommodation.
10,000 for lunch (soup, tomatoes, harina tostada, tea)

Bus to Ralco

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

Bus from Los Angeles to Antuco about once an hour in daytime. A few of them continue to Abanico or you can hitch fairly easily (also see here: [[Volc%C3%A1n_Antuco#Acceso_en_transporte_p.C3.BAblico_y_autostop]].

Updated January 2022: Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends

- Many people going and coming from the National Park, it hadn't been easy to hitchhike to reach Antuco but it worked

- Bus from Antuco to Santiago - Terminal Sur leaving at 21:30 and arriving at 6:30

Company : Nilahue

$26.300 for semi-cama

Commentaries : "cheap" company, no USB-plugs, not much space for the legs, the bus stop is at the entrance of Antuco coming from the Andes, it's a shelter made of bricks just next to a food truck selling fries and hamburgers

Update nov2024 :

Night bus santiago --> antuco 16k CLP ( not every day but multiple/week). Seets confortables, 2 plugs (TranSantin)

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

Update November 2023: The Chilean Border Control had be relocated and is now closer to the border and not any more on the GPT route. Therefore it is not any more required to sneak around the Chilean Border Control.

This is the only place where it is strongly recommended to sneak around a police station. This recommendation applies in particular to all non-Chileans going southbound.
The reason: The forward border control Pichachen is located about 20 km before the actual border. And only here the regional superiors of the PDI (Policia de Investigation) came up with the silly rule that everyone that passes the border control post towards Argentina gets stamped out of the country regardless if he leaves Chile or not. They simply ignore the fact that a few kilometers down the main road at Piedra del Indio long before reaching Argentina a horse trail diverts towards the next village in Chile called Trapa Trapa. Should you get an exit stamp into your passport but continue to hike in Chile you will be an illegal alien without a valid tourist visa. This may not instantly cause you a problem but the next time you want to leave Chile orderly i.e. from an airport the immigration system will show that you illegally in Chile and the police will assume that you trespassed into Chile. And that’s taken pretty serious. Forget about your flight and your further travel plans.
Every hikers that passed this border control got into some kind of trouble and caused these officers a headache. Some hikers could convince them after long discussions to pass without an exit stamp. Some hikers got and exit stamp and run into problems later. Some hikers pretended to walk back and took a partly overgrown route to walk around the border control. When we hiked this section in January 2014 I got unasked an exit stamp while they “just checked my documents” but luckily after a long talk I could convince them to give me a new entry stamp.
You can’t blame these poor officials at the border control for this situation; they understand these occasional hikers but their regional superiors gave them strict orders. In short: this place is a potential disaster for hikers and hikers are a disturbance for these officials.
Therefore, to avoid this issue I simply rerouted the regular hiking route to bypass the border control post Pichachen. It’s easier for everyone: for the hikers and for the poor police officer that have to comply with this silly order. The re-routed track leads cross country through the normally dry lake bed of the Laguna de Las Lajas and just crosses the main road at the diversion to Trapa Trapa. Walking around the border control may be suspicious but is not illegal and saves everyone nerves and endless discussions. It actually prevents you from getting into an illegal migration status while staying in Chile.
The Regular Packrafting Route anyway bypasses the border control.
Luckily this is the only border control post I’m aware off where such a stupid rule is applied. In many other forward border controls you need to proactively approach the police and request your exit stamp if you plan to leave Chile. Should you just visit the area between the border control and the actual border you can normally just pass or explain your intentions.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT09 - Volcán Antuco]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT09-Laguna_de_las_Lajas.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]

GPT09 (Volcan Antuco)

2025-02-05T14:34:46Z

Juliasbrain: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

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Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2024-01-29 to 2024-01-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 09A / Chris & Julia'''

Day 1: stayed in Antuco (Details in Log of section 8), took bus in the morning at 8:20 to Abanico and hitched from there a bit further until the track starts (off the MR). At the parque national checkpoint we had to explain a bit. It seems you should buy some ticket beforehand online. Since there was no internet reception, this was not possible on the spot. As we left for Trapa Trapa, they let us pass anyhow (we couldn't just pay in cash). The pass is really beautiful, last chance to get water is in the river one is loosely following, flowing on the right. Once it deviates, it becomes a bit dry until descending after the pass into the valley. The pass is super exciting and beautiful. There we aimed for the marked campspot, that little cave next to the police, but were surprised to find a construction site short before. We talked to the owners, they are building a restaurant with campsite and are offering tours up vulcan antuco. They were super friendly, let us stay somewhere in the bush for free and were even allowed to use their cantine-bus for our meals, which was super nice to sit upright and less exposed :) we enjoyed that a lot. In the future they want to also rent ice gear to climb antuco from the southern side which is way less demanding.

Day 2: hiked along the MR, border control post manned, but not operating as a control post anymore. We weren't able to catch a ride for some time, but finally hitched the last 6km until the path splits off to the right. From there its mostly boring MR, some puestos, many not marked. Wanted to camp at marked Camp [XX], but there is a puesto now. We went a few hundred meter down the road and found a spot there, closer to the river.

Day 3: it gets more scenic towards the pass (also nice for camping, water at both sides of the pass), after the pass it gets really beautiful all the way down to trapa trapa. Last bit is a bit tricky to navigate in the river bed.
In Trapa Trapa we had lunch at the food & lodge location. They were really nice, almost same meal as described before but we had to pay 27kCLP for two people.
After that we went to the red house marked. Only sweets, nothing "good". We got 1.2kg of cookies, but decided to continue anyways and went into 10.

Beautiful & boring bits. Resupply and getting out bit tricky.

*'''2024-01-27 to 2024-01-28 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH 01B+OH02+09C+RR / Dorota Szparaga'''
Day1: After very good breakfast with owners of Camping Antuco I started at 12.00. I have decided take lower variant I was afraid of snow at pass. Var OH1B+OH2 leads on comfortable MR with views on Laguna Laja and Volcanos. Near the trail there are a lot of monuments. In 2005 was tragedy. A.lot od young soldiers dead in snow storm. At point OH02 (9.2/1409) there is now refugio, only signs. I took water in refugio of Police OH09C (1.1/1475). At border control nobody was interested in me. I joined RR at km 34.9/1495. Camp after Ford 37.0/1512. Water level very low.

Day2: It was very hot but not problem with water. In puesto 47.1/1709 women made me fresh tortilla in fire for 5000 CLP. In Trapa Trapa in Shop (Red House) near point lodging Almonte nothing : only software drinks, sweets. Night at Lodging, Food with Mapuche family. Total 35000 clp for bed, breakfast and dinner. They were polite and very Quick prepare me place for night in spite of the fact that I arrived at 19.00. A girl of 12 years old talk to me a lot.

*''' 2025-Jan-22 to 2025-Jan-23 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Janboro '''

I combined GPT 09, 10 and 11 and took 6,5 days in total.

Day 1

Spent the night before my departure at the cabaña that belongs to Roca Café right next to the last bus stop and is run by Checo.

Tried to hitchhike to the place where Farah and I stopped the day before, but wasn’t successful. So I took an “Uber”: a local guy who offered to drive me to Piedra del Indio for 50 luca. There, I started my hike in the late afternoon.

The walk up the valley was straightforward, lots of water and easy terrain.

I had plenty of encounters with puesto dogs that weren’t all too happy about my uninvited visit on their territory, with one being scary: At the puesto at [46.9/1709], two dogs aggressively barked and approached me while I was still more than a hundred meters away. No owners in sight and nobody reacted to my “holas”. Picking up stones as recommended in the manual didn’t keep the dogs from coming closer, so I decided to turn around, walked back around a hundred meters, crossed the river and made a big detour around the Puesto. I camped one or two kilometers upstream next to the river. Later in the evening, I saw the dueños coming back to their puesto on horses.

Day 2

The next morning I ascended the rest of the valley, had another two dogs barking aggressively and approaching me at Puesto at [49.3/1820]. This time picking up stones kept them at a distance of two meters. Also, their dueños were at home and eventually got their dogs to calm down and turn around.

Shortly after the pass at [50.4/1878], I met a Pehuenche arriero who was on his way to his cattle in Antuco. Had a brief, nice chat with him and continued my descent.

Way down also with easy terrain and a lot of water. At times the way is pretty steep though and I slipped two times in the sandy underground and fell on my butt.

At the outskirts of Trapa Trapa I accidentally took the wrong way, walked through a gate and one to two hundred meters later found myself in a fenced-off private property, with two aggressively barking dogs approaching me, one from the front, one from the back. I yelled: “hola?” and a Pehuenche lady came and dot the dogs to leave me alone. Thanked her and apologized a couple of times. Her son opened the exit gate for me, I asked him if I was going the wrong way, he confirmed and pointed towards the correct way.

In Trapa Trapa I searched for the shop and found it at the location, Ivan, Jakub and Daniel indicated. The selection of products was very limited, but I stilll had plenty of food so I only bought an ice cream and a pack of chicky bum. Continued through Trapa Trapa towards GPT10.

*'''2025-Jan-19 to 2025-Jan-20 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / 09-01A, 09-02 / Farah & Jan '''

Day 1

Started at Park Ranger [8.4/1110]. Decided to avoid the CC on the RR as Farah’s knee was still not fully recovered from GPT06 and took the MR (09-02) instead. Took the 09-01A detour, then a pizza break at the Antuco Basecamp. Lots of traffic on the MR, so we ate a lot of dust. Camped around 2 km behind the Monument of the Tragedy of Antuco {09-02} [3.4/1416] right next Laguna Laja.

Day 2

Continued on the MR, still lots of dust, and camped at S 37°27.977' W 71°18.332' in the river bed.

Day 3

The next morning Farahs knee pain got so bad she couldn’t continue, so we decided to tramp back to El Abanico. Close to the camp at {09-C} [1.0/1440], we found a building made of shipping containers and told the people who live there about our problem. Don Leonel, the owner, plans to open a restaurant at that spot within the next 1-2 months. They already have a camping ground with toilets and showers. Ignacio, mountain guide by trade, who works for Leonel, drove us to El Abanico and recommended us to stay at the cabaña of Checo, who also runs Roca Café right next to the last bus stop.

'''2024-Jan-15 to 2024-Jan-18 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR/ Nimrod & Tamar

''''
We got a ride from our sweet cabaña owner to the entrance to the park. The ranger took our info but we didn't need to pay because we hiked SOBO.

It was rainy and we decided to camp near the waterfall and climb to the pass tomorrow.

2nd day:
All trails were clear and easy.
Camped at (-37.51122, -71.25437).

3rd day:
At approx (-37.51590, -71.25192) there was a puesto, and Maurizio invited us to have breakfast with him (eggs, bread, goat meat leftovers).
We camped near ford [54.9/1423].

4rth day:
Nothing at the resupply waypoint. We asked a teenager (the only person we saw) where is the store. He told us there is no store in Trapa Trapa, but that he might be able to sell us some stuff. He took us to his home, and his parents fed us and sold us some basic food (flour, harina tostada, pasta, honey).

*'''2025-JAN-08 to 2025-JAN-09 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + 09C / Alex '''
The pass {09} [16.8/2043] is now open for safe and direct access in both directions. The regular route (RR) still has a challenging ford at Río de los Piños. Instead, I followed 09C.

* ''' 2024-DEC-22 > 23 / 1,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > route > RR > Crête / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT09+GPT10+GPT11+GPT12+GPT13
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : facile
| Neige : beaucoup au col du volcan
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 2/5
| Danger : neige sur pente raide

Bus de 11h (dimanche) puis auto-stop immédiat jusqu'au depart du sentier.
La seconde moitié de la montée est plus compliquée mais se fait bien. Il y a des cairns dans tous les sens. Enorme congère au col, impossible a faire si la neige est gelée.
J'ai pris la route au pied du volcan car le sentier est faisait un détours non justifié. Au col j'ai pris le sentier de crête. A Trapa Trapa je pensais trouver un resto ou une epicerie mais il n'y a rien a proximité du sentier.

*'''2024-DEC-21 to 2024-DEC-22 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (var. B, C, 03B) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

From the bus stop at the end of section 08 var. 06-B [2.9/734], we set out with supplies for two days. We walked 6 km along the main road Q-45 to the start of section 09. At coordinates -37.3983, -71.43998, we reported at the park gate, filled out a form, and paid the entrance fee to the national park, which was 5,700 CLP per person.

While ascending to the first pass, we crossed a hardened lava field (aprox. 500m), full of sharp rocks. The views of Volcán Antuco and Sierra Velluda were breathtaking there.

At the pass at km 16.8, there was still a significant amount of snow on the southeastern side. We used our siesta pads to slide down about 100 meters of elevation. Since the trail was buried under the snow, we continued cross-country on the snow. From there, we chose variants B and C.

We spent the night after the river crossing at km 37.0. After sunset, a local arriero on horseback came to check on us from a nearby puesto.

The next day, we reached the end of the minor road and, from the pass, opted for variants {09-03} and {09-03B}. In Trapa Trapa, we resupplied with only sweets and instant noodles, as the selection was very limited. However, a kind lady sold us some eggs as well. The small shop is located at coordinates -37.7124106, -71.2564517

'''2024-Dec-18 to 2024-Dec-19 / 1.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (Partly) / Sean & Neele'''

Resupplied at the red shop (S 37.42745, W 71.15386) in trapa trapa, they had ramen cookies, chocolate etc. She also sold us a big loaf of bread. Not great for a full resupply but enough for us to top up for a few days.

Ford 54.9km - would be possible to camp around here if you wanted a short day in or out of trapa trapa. Water is a available from here all the way up and over the pass at the moment.

Ford 33.5km (approx) Crossing Rio de Los pinos on the RR was deep and strong for us at 1pm so we decided to hitch the road instead. Not much traffic but we got picked up by the police.

Pass 16.8km - lots of snow still we decided it was too much for us so hitched to Antuco.

Antuco has plenty of options to resupply. We found one screw top gas canister in the hardware store opposite the plaza. Big supermarket and other hardware stores had the cartridge type.

*'''24-12-06 - 24-12-09 / 3 days / SOBO / RR, OHa / Volker

A wonderful spring hike!
I hitchhiked from Pelluca (close to Antuco) to the camp site Lagunillas. Conaf registration is now on the road. 10K for day visitors, no fee for those, who continue SOBO. The Conaf guy at the spot indicated in the track files already knew from his colleague, that I am coming. Started there at 2.30 p.m. After the first slope very scenic landscape. The pass was completely under snow, so I walked back a bit to the yellow spot (close to the big red spot), found a spot, that fits for one tent. Very windy and cold - but superscenic with Sierra Velluda so close.
Day 2: Volcan Antuco summit. I didn‘t start earlier than 7:15 as I wanted the sun to melt the surface of the snow before I arrive at the steep slope to the summit. If it‘s frozen, mini-spikes don‘t help. Arrived at the summit at 10:30 and met two guys from Antuco. Great view up there! Back to my tent at 13:30h, took a long siesta in the afternoon sun, but decided not to spend another night on the cold pass. The access to the RR down was blocked by a vertical snow-wall, even cleavages there. I bypassed both by walking 200m to the right and went down CC on steep snowfields (in the afternoon: no problem). RR under snow until it gets less steep down in the valley. I wanted to spend another night close to the impressive Sierra Velluda, so I went CC to OH09a, found water and a nice spot to camp there.
Day 3: A lazy day. I started late and spent much time just enjoying the landscape. More fords than indicated, all easy, but none with dry feet. A none-indicated ford on RR shortly before gpt08-04 end I found to risky, so I crossed only the right river and followed the river bank to a path on the OSM leading to OH09C. Once on the plain, I went CC to join OH09C at the bridge. Camp close to the puesto at 39.6.
Day 4: Very nice walk on RR in a rapidly changing landscape. First moved very quick, in the forest zone I was slowed down, the trail is partly destroyed by water, later quite steep on unpleasant rubble. All river-crossings (6, including the indicated ford): dry feet. Arrived at Trapa Trapa at 4 p.m. and stayed at the indicated spot on 09-03e, simple accomodation (very, very friendly Mapuche hosts).

* '''2Dec2024 - 3dec2024 / hiking SOBO / OH2 - varC - RH - varD / 1,5 days / Clara'''

Hitchhiking from antuco to camping parque national.

Didn't go at pass 16.8km, seems dangerous as karin said + owner of the camping told me there's too much snow.
Hitchhike to km35. Not many cars but first one took me.

Camp at 47.

Pass at 50.4 : still snow but easy to cross.

Fords : still some thick snow fields melting on the top of some rivers on the way, but easy to cross for now.

Water : plenty at this period

Arrive at Trapa Trapa for lunch. Eat at point food, lodging. Kind and delicious. 10k CLP for harina tostada + soup with vegetables and pastas + tomatoes + lots of bread + tea.

* '''2024-Nov-22 to 2024-Nov-24 / 2.5 Days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - option 1, 2 / Karin'''

Camp: campamento amfiteatro / km47

The pass km16 looked doable. And the rangers at the entrance of the parc told me that there is only a small amount of snow. So I decided to take the RR. Snow fields started to appear from about 1860m altitude, but were easily crossable. But the other side of the pass (facing eastwards) is just one big snow field. On the ridge were cracks in the snow, big snow blocks broke out and fell down, and combined with the steepnes of the slope, the risk of avalanches is high. Therefore, I decided to backtrack.

Next day, two guys from the Departamento de obras offered me a ride and drove me to the landmark km35. From there the road is easy to follow with many small streams crossing it. So plenty of water.

At the pass km50, there was still some snow. The streams are sometimes covered by the snow. As I had to cross them, it was either possible to walk around and cross the stream a bit up or down stream, or the snow was still hard and thick enough for me to walk on it. Which was risky, because I could not know if this was the case before doing it. It might become dangerous to cross the snow fields over the streams when the snow melts more and therefore becomes less strong.

The valley to Trapa Trapa is very beautiful. It has a few more fords than indicated, mainly around S 37°40.6835' W071°14.1790' (altitude 1585m).

I stayed in the home of the very nice family, indicated in Trapa Trapa as "Food, lodging", for 2 days because of bad weather.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-03-19 to 2024-03-21 // 2 days (one day off due to the horrible weather) // Hiking // NOBO // RR + VARIANT C + VARIANT B // Quentin Clavel'''

I then continue my way threw GPT 09 (went from GPT 12 to 09 straight).

Easy track to follow all along, until the volcanic plateau. It's kind of an highway of arieros! I met a lot, all very nice, some of them quite curious of what my itinerary looks like.

Pass after trapa trapa was a bit hard because of the heat, and because I began to be a tired, I had to do few breaks.

Then arriving on a plateau, going down and pretty flat after, very well marques, on some part very sandy. After that you arrive on the big straight lines part, that was so exciting for me, the scenery are so nice that I was even a bit happy to walk on gravel roads aha. Weather begun to be very windy on the plateau that reminds me some hard times on the bloody tierra del fuego !

I was absolutely so happy to find an abandoned puesto that was a perfect shelter for an extremely windy, cold and rainy night. This shelter is located few meters on the right after the Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

As the weather was terrible the day after (snow on all the summits around and still heavy rain) I stopped for one day. One local, that live in a puesto around was curious and came by, we discuss and asked for the authorisation to stay there, and he said it was not a problem at all.

Day after was stunning, I was so happy to skip the rain to have this lovely weather for the end of this amazing section !

Took variant C, had nice talks with carabineros, no problem at all to pass there now as long as you explain the situation. This option si very scenic, again, I was amazed from the volcan and the nice geometry of it, and the gravel road who's going on the way.

Then CC on variant B, straight after the big house and the bus that sell food at the middle of nowhere !

I was amazed from the landscapes, antuco volcan for sure, but the amazing siella velluda también !

Teaching the pass, then continuing CC until reaching PK 11,89, and fond a well marked track until the road.

I strongly hesitated to go up to the summit, but as there were a lot of fresh snow and it was pretty windy, I decide to continue my way, still very happy of the scenery I saw there !

Reaching the road, then hitchhiking to antuco + bus to Los Angeles (7pm) for a porper break, before coming back on this point and going to GPT08.

AGAIN, I loved this section !

* '''2024-03-24 to 2024-03-25 / 2 days / SOBO / RR + var D / Marilyne'''

Day 1 - It was Sunday and few buses were running so I took a “taxi” from Antuco to the start of the trail up the pass. (Owner of my lodging called up one of his friends who sometimes drives Uber around town). 15k to go to the National Park. Park rangers told me that I didn’t have to pay entrance fees since I was crossing the park and not coming back the same way.
Many other hikers were there on a Sunday on the first part of the trail. Enjoyed the day very much and thought the scenery was beautiful. People at the puesto next to second ford of Rio de los Pinos offered me to stay with them but I declined as I was hoping to do this section in 2 days and wanted to hike a little further. Camped shortly after Ford {09} [37.0/1512].

Day 2 - Kept going on the RR until Trapa Trapa. Stopped at the kiosco to buy cookies and chocolate (melted as that little hut in the sun gets hot!). Kept going right away on GPT10.

* '''2024-Mar-7 to 2024-Mar-8 / 1.5 days / SOBO / RR 2 C D/ Matthias de Austria'''

Bus from Antuco to Abanico at 8:30am (tell driver you want out at the junction to Abanico). Partly hiked but mostly hitched up to the lake (very little traffic, I was lucky). I choose Variant 2 (an easy road) as my rucksack was so heavy (plan doing Section 9 to 12). Lots of small memorials spreaded out for the soldiers died in a blizzard a few years ago. There was a military training going on, so I passed a lot of small groups of soldiers. All friendly. Later a local familiy asked if I want a ride, sure! We pass the bordercontrol on C2.5km, police just waives us through from a distance. Soon they reach their picknickspot and I continue walking on that long and empty road.

No snowfields, plenty of (unmarked) water, fordings very easy, almost no Tabanos.

Did not see the shop in Trapa-Trapa, but had plenty of food anyway, so put no efford in searching. No cellphone connection in Trapa-Trapa with Movistar.
Nice views of Vulcan Antuco and Laguna de La Laya, otherwise not much to see. Nice, short and easy section (though I did not hiked the pass and had 2 long hitchhikes).

* '''2024 Feb 25 to Feb 28 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

We combined sections 09 and 10 into 5 days of hiking. Beautiful sections with a diversity of landscapes: volcano, meadows, puestos...

Transport to start of section: Albanico
Bus Los Angeles - Albanico at 5 p.m. from rural bus terminal
Hitch-hike to Lagunillas campsite (10,000 pesos pp per night, they also sell empanadas, which are very good, plus there's hot water).

Day 1: Lagunillas campsite - Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)

Lovely day and beautiful volcanic scenery. Not much shade on the climb. Rather pleasant bivouac spot, along the water, with grass and shade, rather cold night as our wet clothes froze at night. Water nearby (estero del volcano)

Day 2: Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)- Camp -37.62833, -71.24444

Beautiful day, with a few easy river crossings (maximum knee-deep). There's plenty of vegetation and shade, which is great for breaks.
The camp spot is just a few meters from a puesto, and they offered to let us pitch our tent. Night still cold (frost).

Day 3: Camp -37.62833, -71.24444 - Trapa Trapa

Easier and shorter day than the others, but we followed it up with the start of section 10 so as not to sleep in Trapa Trapa. Not much choice in the mini-shops in Trapa Trapa.

* '''2024-Feb 09 to Feb 13 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var C, Var D / Michael and Kasia'''

We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.

Day 0 - Feb 8th

We left Antuco around 13:00. It took two hitches to get us to Lagunillas campground (also called Parque Antuco camping). We were lucky that the second car was actually going to the campground and took us right to reception. Posted price was 10.000 CLP pp. There are about 20 campsites. Each had a picnic table and an electrical plugin, and one of the two bathrooms had showers with hot water. We were not blown away by the campground, however we were just coming from a hostel rather than coming out of the mountains, and perspective counts for a lot. They ask you to pack your trash out. They have a small tienda where they sell prepared food, but nothing for resupply.

Day 1 - Feb 9th

From Lagunillas we took an OSM track directly across the road. The trail is clearly marked and maintained. It goes through native forest with nice views of the mountains and lava fields.
There are at least two waterpoints along the way. The OSM trail connects in with RR.

The trail up is fairly well maintained, no brush overgrowth in the path and no places where the trail has collapsed. The path through the lava field was amazing, and the views of Sierra Velluda were spectacular. It is a fairly popular path. On a Friday about 15 other people were on the trail.

We had already decided we wanted to break the pass into two days if possible. We set up camp at the Campamento Anfiteatro or Amphitheatre Camping (-37.42427, -71.41517). It has a nice view of the glacier on Sierra Velluda and some shade in the afternoon.

If deciding to stay at the amphitheater camping area, there is water on the opposite side of the plane. There is a very large waterfall that is visible from a long distance. Walking toward it, a little to the east (left side) is a smaller waterfall that becomes visible about halfway across. It had very clear water and a pool that is easy to access. There was also a stream that appeared in the late evening about 50 m from the campsite but disappeared again overnight.

Day 2 - Feb 10th

There was water shortly after beginning up RR from Anfiteatro for some distance. The path is on the right side of the dry river bed as you are going up. We got confused and walked part way up the left side before realizing and had to backtrack to get to the correct side. There was still one very small snow field on the other side of the pass, but the trail curved around the right side of it so there was no need to walk on it. Expansive views of the valley on the way down. The trail was easy to see and follow most of the way. At the bottom we just went cross country. We camped at the larger of the two araucarias (-37.46186, -71.32047) in what looked like a arriero campground. The campsite at the smaller araucaria shortly before it looked a little nicer but required crossing the river and looked less wind protected.

Day 3 - Feb 11th

We got a late start. It was a Sunday and there was a fair amount of traffic on the road so we decided to go crosscountry from the bridge and cut the loop to connect in with Var C. It was dry in some places, swampy in others, and we eventually had to switch to water shoes to cross the river. It probably didn't save any time, but it was definitely more interesting and avoided getting blasted by dust with every passing car. We rejoined the road on the far side. The afternoon had a cloud cover and actually got fairly cool which made the road walk much more enjoyable. Once we got onto the spur road just before the BCP we didn't see any more cars or people for the rest of the day. We camped on the uphill side of the road around (-37.57617, -71.24087) which looked to be an arriero campground. Very dusty but there was a reasonably flat spot and a small stream nearby.

Day 4 - Feb 12th

We continued on RR. The valley was pretty, not too much happening. There were a lot of puestos but we saw only a couple of people and not too many animals. We stopped at the estero just before heading up to refill water and have lunch. We were initially going to take Opt 3B because it was shorter, but after seeing how exposed it was and some sketchy parts early on, we turned back and opted for RR. The path was easy to follow and actually in pretty good condition. It went through some beautiful forest which also provided some much needed shade. We took Var D down and did not encounter any dangerous scree. This section is also a little shorter than RR and passed by the river so one can refill if necessary. We were glad we took Var D. We decided to camp about 1km before Trappa Trappa along the river around (-37.70803, -71.24448). It was right next to the road, so far from optimal, but it worked.

Day 5 - Feb 13th

We walked into Trappa Trappa around 11:00. It was very windy the entire time we were there, and almost no one around. We first went to the shop with the Kiosko sign, but no one was there. A neighbor came out and told us that the guy works in the school till around 14:00, but would be around later. We then went to the shop indicated by the Provisiones sign. She didn't have a lot. She said the food truck was coming that day around 18:00, so I guess we just got unlucky with the timing. We bought some pasta, cookies, yogurts, Zukos, canned fish, crackers, and she made us sopaipillas for 300 each. They were really good but a very different style from the ones we had had with the arrieros, more pastry-like, fried crispy on the outside but still doughy on the inside and more oily. Very filling but I don't think they would work well to carry. We went back to the Kiosko shop and the guy came when we rang the timbre. He had even less stuff, mostly cookies. We bought a few more things there. Finally we went to the shop just at the beginning of Section 10. It is on the left just as you start down the hill, a corrugated metal wall with a large square cut out of the side that acts like a window and the word “Hola” scratched into the side. She had the least amount of things, but she did have fresh onions and carrots, no cheese (she said she makes it in December and when it's gone that's it for the year). Initially she said she didn't have any bread, but as we were talking with her she offered to sell us a bread, a pan amasado that was huge and dense and served us for three meals. From here we continued into GPT10.

* '''2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH B + C + D / Joscha'''

I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.

Day 1: RR [5.8-9.6]

I hitched in the afternoon from Los Angeles to the entrance of the Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja (around km 5.8). From there I hiked to km 9.6. Here are some nice flat spots to camp + you have a nice view over the Rio Laja valley. But there is no water at the spot.

Day 2: RR [9.6-20.7] + OH09-B + OH09-C + RR [34.9-47.4]

Big flat, sandy area around km 11.9 is a good campingspot. There is also a creek flowing not more than 50 meters south of the RR-CC [11.9+4.9]. The RR over the Pass (km 16.8) is completely snow free now. The RR and OH-B cross a creek at km 20.8. There is lots of water on OH B + C + RR [34.9-47.4].

Day 3: RR [47.4-54.6] + OH09-D + RR [56.4-61.5]

Ford at km 52.3 is dry. But the RR cross a bunch of streams around the Pass (km 50.4) and it runs along the river of the valley at km 53.2 for a few 100 meters. I just went through Trapa Trapa and continued directly with section 10.

* '''2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Trapa-Trapa - El Abanaico / RR + Option 01 + Option B + Option C +Option D / Alex & Christophe'''

We really enjoyed this section even if it wasn't really fast to walk in the sand and lava field.

We didn't have much to add to what has already been written.

We tried to summit the Antuco Volcano bit didn't success because it was too steep and too lose so we stopped at 2700m. I would recommend to take crampons if you want to summit, so you can go in the snow (wich was quite hard, even at 2pm) and it should be easier. What I would however recommend to everyone is to go up to 2300m. It is easy to go from the pass and the panorama is incredible.

We camped after the try on the Volcano at the Amphitheatre Campsite. It was a nice place but I wouldn't recommend it. First, you have to walk a kilometer just to wash yourself and to take some water and second, we had strong wind gusts all night long. The camp is not wind protected.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 2024-Jan-13 / 2 days / SOBO / RR, OH C, OH 03B and OH 03/ Hannes'''

Started in Camping Las Lagunillas at around 7 am. Took me about 4 to 5 hours to the pass. On the way up I found water starting from -37.423109 -71.404405 onwards, followed along. Big stream, should not dry out soon or never(?) during summer. At the pass still to much snow to drop in directly to the path on the other side. Instead of walking upwards to the left towards volcano I took short detour to the right, to come around the snowfield, for me worked out well. Slided then down on the lower and not so steep snowfields to get to a basin. Reached from there the RR…Thought could be tough to ford estero Petronquines on the RR, so took the road (OH C)…Two police stations there, nobody checked me, although cars were at each spot… somehow an annoying road to walk on…you could hitchhike a part of it, there is some traffic, but not to much. I did not. Camped at a beautiful spot at the river -37.511560, -71.259157 a few kms before the landmark. There is life here all along the road, lots of puestos, cows, sheep, goats. Next day again along this endless seeming road up to the pass above Trapa Trapa, water all along, even at the pass…From there I took OH 03B, which is the shorter way to the village, OH03 from
-37.69671, -71.25027 was in some parts a light BB till I got on a good trail which brought me down to Trapa. Descending down the pass to the village you’ll get an other version of Chile. Araucania trees are showing up and you are now in Mapuche region, no more chilean flags at every house down there. End of this sector was for me the biggest change on the GPT so far (having done the sections before from Santiago)…other people, language, culture, other flora…a kind of a very welcoming change. Arriving in Trapa Trapa you could give a try at owner of house at -37.71056, -71.26569, junction OH03 and main road. He offered me camping and food if I couldn’t find something in town. If not there is the usual family who takes guests. Miniminishop is at
-37.71240, -71.26355

* '''2024-Jan-01 to 2024-Jan-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {09-B} - {09-C} - RR - {09-D} - RR / Lilian'''

I combined GPT09+10+11+12, first resupply 6 days food in Antuco, then take 2.5 days for 09, stay in Trapa Trapa(save 2 meals), resupply in Trapa Trapa for 1.5 days food(low stock and limited selection). Then take 2 days for 10, stay in Guallalí(save 2 meals), resupply in Guallalí for 2 days food(low stock and limited selection but better than Trapa Trapa). Lastly 2 days for 11, 4 days for 12)

Nice resupply in Antuco, but most of them are closed because i visit here on the first day of 2024.

A friendly local give me a ride to the entrance of national park, thank you so much to him! There are some beautiful waterfalls start at RR km2.3 to km4.7, remember to take a look, they are at the mountain side(right side)! Lot of families come to here for enjoy their holidays.

RR km5.7 : ranger station for vehicles and people control for entering the park. Super nice and let me go in after i told them my route, no need to pay any fee or show any permits.

Park ranger[8.4/1110] : look like is a ranger station, didn't see anyone when I passed here on 5.30pm.

Km9.7 : flat area, you can camp here if need, but no water.

Km11.25 - km11.9 : lava trail, there are some rock cairn for you to follow, not difficult.

Km11.9 : if you continue going south at the RR sharp turning, about 200m you will met a stream, flowing good with cold and clear water, flat spots nearby too, but I'm not sure it will dry up or not.

Follow rock cairn to the pass, mostly you'll lost the trail and cairn at km15.6, look at the right side, go down the dry riverbed then climb up to the other side, you'll find cairn again. Don't walk in riverbed, they'll block your way at the end.

Still lot of snow after the pass, follow Véronica's comment, climb up the ridge to compass NE ( I walk on the top of snow slope, because it is flat and gentle, also i think it is easier than walking on loose sand.)

At about 2150m, there is a break without snow, a sandy slope that you can walk down. ( -37.43215, -71.36002 )

Not steep, i think is easy go down but slow, so when i go down a little, i go back to south side to join the snow slope for fast moving, snow slope becomes more gentle when it gets lower.

By the way, you can climb up and go down the pass without stepping on any snow now.

Km20.7 : you'll find car track here, you can follow it to dirt road, i take {09-B} here, avoid crossing Petronquines(RR km28.9) at downstream. {09-B} is something look like a very old car track on the ground, no cars running on it anymore, easy walking but not easy to follow.

{09-B} km1.15 : crossing of Estero El Aguada o El Volcán ( a long name), a stream. A very good crossing point, stream break to 6 parts here, all below half of calf at afternoon. Flowing nice with clear water.

After the crossing, i can't find any trail or car track on the other side, but after i keep going CC about 400m, a dirt road in good condition at mountain side, it'll lead you to the main dirt road and join {09-C}.

Bridge {09-C} [1.7/1417] : milky water.

Border control CL[2.5/1420] : gate for vehicles but not for people. Didn't see anyone when I passed here at 5pm.

Km3.7: excellent view point of Volcán Antuco and meadows.

Bridge[5.3/1444] : crossing Petronquines on a bridge, beautiful view and lot of clear water, maybe it is difficult to cross it at downstream (RR) as now. Look like you can camp beside, or under the bridge. But every 0.5 - 1 hour have a border control vehicle patroling the road, I don't know camping beside this road is it a good idea.

Bridge[7.3/1470] : clear water but no flat spots.

X RR[34.9/1495] : rejoin RR.

Ford[37.0/1512] : below half of calf at late afternoon.

Km39.4 - pass[50.4/1878] : lot of stream crossing the road, have 1-2 need wet feet crossing, just beside the pass is a stream flowing too.

Pass[50.4/1878] : beautiful grassland, flat and nice for camping, but 20+cows when I passed here.

RR-TL-V{09} [50.4+9.6] is a nice and maintained trail ,easy to follow, sometimes you'll find orange ribbon leads where you go.

Ford[52.3/1648] : no river crossing here.

Km53.15 - km53.65 : you need to cross the stream 4 times, then walk in the stream about 50m, but all dry feet crossing, rock hopping or log bridge will help you.

Km54.55 : junction of RR and {09-D}, but i miss the turning to RR, so i go for {09-D}.

{09-D} km0.4: river crossing, rock hopping for dry feet. Also a small grassland can fit 1-3 tents after the crossing 150m.

Km0.6 : a stream flowing good crossing the trail with a tiny waterfall, you can sit under it to enjoy a cool shower in a hot day. Look like the other side of river have a nice grassland for camping can fit 2-4 tents, but wet feet crossing.

Km1.1 : rejoin RR.

Viewpoint RR [57.4/1338] : if you are SOBO, it is the first view of Volcán Callaqui. Also nice view of Trapa Trapa.

Km58.6 : CAUTION, if you see a red ribbon, DON'T keep going, you are not on the trail, turn back immediately and check your GPS. RR trail is a sharp turning then go down, you are walking away from the trail and towards a very steep slope now.

Km58.95 : RR have some reroute at here, but mostly you can follow the only trail to main road.

I stayed at Trapa Trapa with the lovely family at (Lodging,food) waypoint. Simple single room with bed, quilt, chair, light and electric charger, also dinner and breakfast. I buy some sausage from the shop nearby and share with all people here. They are very exciting where i come from, what I'm doing, and what interesting things happened when I'm hiking, it is a warm night, i love them! And they invited me to watch their sterilization of horse, OMG OMG OMG, so shock to me, OMG.

Shop (-37.71249,-71.25642) : at compass West of (Lodging,food) waypoint, very close just 2 min walking. Two red house here, the small one is shop. Selling drinks, ice cream, biscuits, pasta, coffee, tea and some frozen meat( mostly is sausage). This shop have a sign on the main road, no sign at the front gate and the gate is opened.

* '''2023 Dec 28 to Dec 29 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / Option 2 + RR+ 09-C/ Ella'''

TLDR: no issue at border control. don’t count on Lagunillas Camping cafeteria or the Lodging, Food waypoint in Trapa Trapa

Bussed from Los Angeles to Abanico - make sure to go to the terminal for rural busses which will be different from where you might get off an intercity bus. Hitched from there to Lagunillas Camping. Campground was nice and spacious. The host is really kind and helpful. The cafeteria was not open for food when I was there, just coffee and tea.
Day 1: Due to a stormy forecast, I chose to avoid the already sketchy-seeming pass and head for the route around the lake (option 2). To get there, I took the small trails around the main road heading east from the campground, which were scenic for a cloudy day with no mountain view - enjoyed the volcanic landscape and the waterfall Salto Las Chilcas. I then was able to hitch a ride on the road beside the lake to the other side of the Volcano, which was good because there didn’t appear to be many streams or campsite options. I continued on by foot on Variant C. I went through border control and the officer was very thorough, but didn’t try to give me an exit stamp when I explained I wasn’t going to cross the border. He mostly seemed concerned that I was alone and tried to offer food and a bathroom! I camped a few kilometers further along that road by one of the streams that crosses it. Beware of aggressive bulls in the area.

Day 2: Easy walking all the way to the pass. Water is still available about every kilometer or two along this route. After the pass there are a few points with a bit of landslide risk where you’re walking on very unstable skree. In retrospect it seems Variant D may exist to avoid some of this but I can’t be sure because I didn’t take it. When I got to Trapa Trapa I was dismayed to find no one at the lodging and food point that others had raved about. The small market just beside this point (sign for “provisions” is only on the main road. looks like a small house with the front painted red next to a larger house) was indeed open at 6pm on a Friday after I called out. There were many types of biscuits and cold drinks, pasta sauce (no pasta), coffee, and maybe even some type of meat in the freezer that I wasn’t quite daring enough to buy. Highly recommend the calorific Chiky Bum biscuits for avoiding mental collapse after a nearly 30km day. I asked the owner about the lodging option next door and she said the family was away for a few days, so guess I just got unlucky. Further down the road towards GPT 10 where there is sign “Kiosco”, there’s also a small ice cream shop/market that was closed when I arrived. I didn’t find another market. Went back up the GPT 09 trail just a bit to get out of town and found a nice camping spot along the river for the night. Visits from goats and a baby horse were a welcome occurrence. No Entel service in Trapa Trapa.

* '''2023 Dec 20 to Dec 22 / 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-C/ Tomáš & Natalie'''

We took a bus at 19:00 from Los Angeles (which has a great system of shared taxis with fixed routes, number eight goes from the big bus station to Jumbo and back to rural bus station for 1000 per person) to Albanico and upon arriving there after five minutes, the first passing car took us to the border of the national park. We pitched our tent in the delta of the river not far from the road but not visible from it. Without the smoke of last year and with the yellow of brooms everywhere and Antuco under snow, the valley was extremely pretty.

The next day we talked to a CONAF ranger, he said an Argentinian hiker told him there was ice in the pass. We did not pay anything. [Including a nice trail that is on OSM in our suggestions to avoid roadwalking from the Rangers office to the RR up].

The climb is pretty, in the pass there was a lot of snow. We followed Véronica's suggestion from last year and climbed about 100 m of elevation to the east and then ran down on the snow (see picture here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1720553588450520/ ). The path in the valley was rather invisible. Two lone araucaria trees guard the road. We thought Rio de los Pines would be impossible to ford now with all the thawing (others seem to have passed though) so we took variant C along the main road to Argentina. Carabinieros just looked at our passports and let us go. A car passed about every half an hour. The valley is stunning yet the roadwalk is a drudge. The following minor road seems virtually never to be driven by cars and is in places badly damaged by water. The valley up is nice.

Going down to Trapa-Trapa, about 1 km after the pass, the path is eroded and new one was created going down to the water. The walk down through the forrest was quite pleasant. We met several groups of arrieros on both side of the pass, they were nice.

In Trapa-Trapa, we had lunch at "Lodging, Food" waypoint. We could not see any sign. We got tomatoes, cheese, bread, pasta, a piece of down fried in oil (tasty) and maté. We paid them a good price for it, we hope it was not too much. From March 2024, there should be (probably) Entel coverage in the valley, the telecomunication tower is already up. We did not see any shops but did not look for them. Altogether, GPT 09 is quite nice, especially now with the snow.

* '''2023-dec-18/ 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-A/ Lukas en Tess'''

As of now the pass on K16,8 is imposible to cross. Going around and taking 09-A is posible but the rock scrambling is a pain. But I would argue the awesome lava field is worth it.
Otherwise the trail was nice and easy, I realy enjoyed the wide open landscape. Arriving in Trapa Trapa we where offered some Harina tostada drink after starting a conversation with some old ladies. We got some cheese at a minishop that is not on the track files. Z37,712542° W71,266816°, something like haloumi, so try roasing it!

* '''2023-Dec-8 to 2023-Dec- 10 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + option 2 + cross country for the volcano / Yannick & Nolwenn & Jens'''

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present

- Snow : on RR on km 16,8 seems impassable because there was still a lot of snow. Yannick wanted to summit the volcano, he went on the East part and went until 2700m of altitude. The North face had less snow.

- Camping spot : easy to find

- River crossing : easy between km 57,9 and km 52,3

- Weather : Sunny

- Resupply : in Abanico a little shop and some cabanas, more options in Antuco, everything you need to resupply there - even gaz canister in the ferreteria

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-10 to 2023-Mar-12 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH-1 / Iris, Alexis '''

After a rest in Trapa Trapa at Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956], we started GPT09 in the morning. The ascent following RR-TL-V {09} [57.4/50.4+9.6] is a well marked horse trail that clims slowly, perfect for a start. Then, the RR-MR-V {09} [41.8/34.9+13.3] is flat and passes through a nice valley, a bit above the river but multiple streams crosses it. Like others, we took 09-C, but had no luck with hitchhiking and ended up walking the 11km. No problem at the border control. We finally ended up camping close to -37.46277, -71.31864 (aim for the big tree, and you will find some camp spot with firepits) after a pretty long day.

On Day 2, we followed the RR and took Option 09-01 to climb the summit. We left most of our gear at the Pass {09} [16.8/2043]. It's better to follow the track for the first part, until the conic shape because it goes along a ridge and avoid pointless ups and down. Then, on the conic shape, you are on your own. We followed a trail made by a group of 8 hikers that were a bit ahead when we found it. It definitely helped as the parts without were really clambering. The views on the top and the small crater made it definitely worthwhile for us. Going down is much more easy and fun, you slide on the sand! As it was late in the season, we did not had any snow on our way but it sill took about 4h to go up (and 1 to go down).
We ended up camping at Campamento Anfiteatro (-37.42427, -71.41517) pretty exhausted. The river here is really chalky but clean water is available from the ice cave.

On Day 3, we took a small detour to see the tunnel of ice (worthy!) and headed down towards Chacay. Then we tried to hitchhike until Abanico with poor luck (on a Sunday morning). Took us 4 rides, but the last one went until Antuco. As there are also limited buses on Sundays, we then did more hitchhike to Los Angeles to ressuply.

A short section but filled with great landscapes and stunning views. Plus you walk in a lava field! Definitely worth it, we really loved it!

* '''2023-Jan-14 to 2023-Jan-16 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + volcan Antuco / Martial / '''

Combined with Section 10.
Laja national Parc was reopened after fire preventive closure on 13/02. Took the bus from LA to Abanico at 4:30PM arriving late at Campamiento viejo (7000$/n) after walking cause poor hitchhiking at this hour (parc closes 17:30). Next morning much more efficient and someone droped me at the start after giving pre-order entry number to CONAF staff (was not important that my ticket was for the previous day).
The ascent to Amphiteatro camping is quick and really well maintained trail. Then i strongly recommend visiting detour to the waterfall for a unique glaciar tunnel walking experience.
Next CC on Antuco’s lava fields was real fun in perfect cloudy weather. Don’t miss the impressive lava bridge !
After reaching the pass early, legs were feeling like summiting Antuco the same day so i decided to search for a high camp. Mission completed here at 2300m : -37.42532, -71.35615 with flat sand next to fresh clean water ponds from the snow. Summiting 2h after setting camp, sunset rewarded me with unique views on laguna Laja and massive Sierra Veluda. Just don’t get caught by the night or bad weather !!
RR descent is sandy and hot traversing a sand deserted bareland so I strongly recommand the O9-C to avoid struggle like I did before shortening to reach the road. Had a meal from a generous family staying at the next Puesto + a hike to piedra del Indio. Then Vegas de Trapa is quick walking MR with lots of puesto and camping option so personally stoped here : -37.57620, -71.24127. Arrived in Trappa next early afternoon for sweet delights in the only shop fenced and garded by 3 dogs. Directly continued to section 10 for reaching puesto at 7.1 wich i also recommand for it’s comfy grassy camping and amable Mapuche family.

* '''2023-Jan-23 to 2023-Jan-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 9c / Maks & Gabi'''

Combined with Section 10.
The road is nice and visible. There is no snow on the pass.
At the entrance to the national park, the guards asked for permission, but when we told them that we were going to Trapa Trapa, they let us go. We slept at the camping inside the park (10000/person).
We took a detour to see a waterfall by the glacier. It was about 4 km go and back.
We camped right outside the national park, by the river. There were a lot of cows but none of them aggressive. We the took the optional route 9c and walked by the carabineros station.No problems there. Just explained that we are going to Trapa Trapa, without crossing the border. They checked out passports and let us go.
There were no further surprises, and the road is really well maintained. Just be careful when going down to Trapa Trapa after rain. It's quite slippery.
There is plenty of water along all the trail.
The shop in Trapa Trapa is marked with a sign on the main road. They have some sweetest and noodles but not much more.

* '''2023-Jan-21 to 2023-Jan-23 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš'''

We really enjoyed this section. We took a bus from Los Angeles to Abanico at 3 o'clock and then hitchhiked to the end of the main road. We arrived at the CONAF control point with no one there (7 p.m.). We slept at the Lagunillas camping, which was for 10000 per person, they had beers, jugos, empanadas, tortillas..We teamed up with Gabi and Max from Poland and enjoyed their company throughout the section (hello! :⁠-⁠)). The ascent to the volcano was amazing, looked like Mordor. Near the point "Campamento Anfiteatro" there's a waterfall that ends in a snowpatch whereby it creates a cave of ice. It's amazing. You can see it from the distance. There's clean water as well, the next clean water is on the other side of the volcano in the valley. We confirm that there's no need to stay away from the carabineros anymore, they only took down our passport numbers. Then it was easy walking until after the pass. We camped at a nice spot in the forest next to the river (S 37° 40.6391' W 071°14.1985). We somehow didn't manage to find the food/lodging point, but were approached by an older lady who fed us cookies and seemed to know a lot about other hikers. There are said to be three shops in Trapa Trapa, we only found the one next to the school which had only biscuits. Continued to GPT10 straight after.

* '''2023-Jan-10 to 2023-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Will '''

Combined with section 10
Nice easy section, loved crossing the fresh crunchy volcanic wasteland at the start. Everything after that was fast trail. Mild temperatures, no horse flies.
I had some trouble getting back from Antuco to the trail. I got told a couple wrong times for the bus, and had no luck during my quick hitchhiking attempt. Eventually caught a bus to abanico at 2, and then two rides got me into the park. The couple driving me spoke for me at the park entrance, and I ended up having to pay 4500 for the entrance. I probably should have gotten out and talked my way through separately.
I stayed at openstreetmap's amphitheater campsite night 1. Nice sheltered spot at the base of sierra velluda, soft sand.
The camp/puesto markers at km 47 seem a bit out of date. There wasn't much at the puesto maker, and there was a puesto right at the campsite marker. The family at the puesto happily let me camp there.

* '''2023-Jan-06 to 2023-Jan-08 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Anna & Christopher '''

Antuco - Trapa Trapa
We hitchhiked from Camping Rucue back to the national park. The landscape was really magnificent the first day. There was almost no snow left after the pass.
After the descent walking gets tougher due to the sand and the path is partially hard to find.
But after the second roadcrossing there is a lot of easy walking on dirt roads.
Atfter leaving the river at around km 47, there is still accessible water in the first part of the small ascent. On the plateau there are no watersources until the descent. We carried some water and camped on the plateau, a very nice spot.
Walking down to Trapa Trapa was really nice. We followed the main route. In retrospective we would have taken option 3, because it is shorter.
We met a couple of locals along the way and they all greated us very nicely. Trapa Trapa was pretty empty when we arrived at around 11 am. We continued right to section 10.

* '''2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Véronica '''

combined GPT09 and GPT10
Route: CONAF waypoint - shoulder of Volcán Antuco - road through border control checkpoint - Trapa Trapa

Two days from national park to Trapa Trapa. From Antuco, I hitched back to the national park and got there around noon. Didn't get charged an entry fee, I just told the entrance staff what trail I planned to take. Nice path most of the way up the volcano, even the CC section has occasional cairns marking the way. You go along a creek as you go up, so lots of accessible water.

Lots of snow on the southeast side of the pass. Tried to go around on the right along/through the rocks, but it's mostly siltstone, very crumbly, and very steep. Got really precarious there so I backtracked to the pass and went around the snow on the left. This involved climbing an additional 150m through volcanic sand, but it felt much safer. The rest of the way down is pretty much all cross-country, couldn't really find a path, but navigation was simple. There were some water sources on the way down too, courtesy of the melting snow.

The next morning, I took Option C that goes along the dirt road. There was no one at the border control checkpoint, probably because I went through before 7 a.m.

Rest of the way to Trapa Trapa is easy, no issues whatsoever. It's nice and forested on the south side of the pass. I didn't investigate resupply or bus options in Trapa Trapa as I went straight through to GPT10.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Mar-01 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain '''

- Camp {09} [47.1/1709] : I slept around 47.5, the place was calm, flat, with grass and close to the water (that was finally not usable because there was too much sand in, but you can easily find drinkable water when going down the valley), many people from the puestos came to talk as it seemed to be the end of the season, it was really pleasant. One offered me to come by him but it was late and I was too tired to move by him, I tried to meet him back the day after but I didn't find his puesto with its indications

- The valley from Puesto {09} [49.3/1820] to Puesto {09} [39.8/1558] : very pleasant, with nice people in, I really liked this place. The water in the middle isn't usable but you can find fresh drinkable water going down from the hills at some points

- There is a Puesto around {09} [37.0/1512], people were nice and asked me if I needed anything

- The way on RR-TL-V {09} just after GPT09-C end isn't easy to find, just stick to the GPS until meeting a road leading to a Puesto close to the river at the Ford on Rio de los Pinos, then it's much easy to follow

- I got an excellent bath when crossing the river close to GPT08-04 end, the water coming from one river was warm and there was enough depth

- the CC from GPT08-04 end to GPT09-02 end was beautiful but demanding because of the soil made of earth and sand, it took me more time than I thought. After having cross the river I got close to an other one with many cows next to it, following it at one point a source of clear drinkable water was running on 3-4m to reach the river

- There is a Campbase with many places cleaned to set up tents and do campfires close to the river following up the road around Bridge {09} [23.3/1409]. It's located at the base of a huge araucaria tree, you can't miss it

- After the RH-CC-A {09} the RH-TL-V {09} is easily findable just by looking at the GPS and is marked with many cairns

- National Park : when leaving it I went to see the guards at the entrance and they were ok with that, didn't ask for any information or fee

* '''2022-Feb-09 to 2022-Feb-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo '''

Took the bus from Antuco to Abanico, got a ride by a friendly Chilean to the national park (no camping allowed). Had to pay entry to the park. Took the CC route avoiding the carabineros to camp in the meadows just beyond the park (S 37° 27.927', W 07). There was a spring emptying in the meadows there. Finished after a long hiking day at Elvira's "lodging, food". Very friendly family, took us in even after 21:00. Understandably there was no goat stew, but we also only payed half price (20.000). Great homemade bread in the morning though :) Continued to GPT10 immediately after.

In the first morning when breaking down camp, we were greeted by two carabineros on horseback, who may have been surprised at the sight of our tent out of sight next to a sand slope. They asked who we were, where we're from and where we're going too, and didn't mind us camping there. No questions about the border with Argentina after. I guess there's no need to stay away from the carabineros here any longer.

* '''2022-Jan-21 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + Antuco summit / Molly and Melissa '''

In Trapa Trapa, we stayed at the house marked "lodging, food". They charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner. Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there.

The path up from Trapa Trapa starts next to the river. Nice path all the way, that transitions to a long gravel road, very easy to follow and many little streams. We camped at the beginning of the next valley at the waypoint "ford". The second to last puesto, on the right hand, belongs to Felizario whose family has the lodging option in Trapa Trapa. He is open to people camping nearby.

The cc section is easy navigation-wise, but the sand is tough to walk in, and it is very exposed. There's little water apart from the fords, but enough. The water coming down from the valley next to Volcan Antuco is very chalky though, and at the waypoint "camp" the stream is all dried up. Further in the valley the water is fine, and it might be possible to find a campsite just before leaving the stream on the optional route.
The building at the "police" waypoint is abandoned. We ended up camping by the carabineros at the "boarder control" waypoint.
While walking on the primary road we were stopped by a boarder control car who wanted to see our passports and pase de movilidad (covid-19) and hear about our route. There were no problems with that. He was very convinced we couldn't cross to Abanico through the pass on the regular route because there wasn't a trail on the other side, but he let us try. Absolutely no snow in the pass on Volcán Antuco's shoulder - apparently it's a very low snow year

Volcán Antuco summit:
We followed the route up, it leads along the ridge to avoid the very strong stream in the valley. This part is not too difficult. The summit itself is very hard, though. It's very steep through loose, big lava rocks that slide everywhere. Tough and a little dangerous. On the other side, the terrain is made of the same kind of rocks for over half of the descent, which makes for a very slow going. Maybe there is a nicer path under the ski lifts, we found one almost in the end. Definitely not worth it for everyone.
The place marked "restaurant, lodging" was closed - apparently they are open only during the ski season. Not too difficult to hitch from there if not too late

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes'''

Overview:
This section has you cross over a volcanic lava field and over a pass at first and then follows trails south thru and area with many puestos and ranches. The first part of this section involves some route finding and cross country while the second half follows well established dirt roads and dirt trails thru grass Valley.

Difficulties:
WARNING: Huge snow field at the top of the pass that is untraversable. It is very steep and must be avoided if not yet melted. Must go around so please be safe. My biggest difficult was the sections across the lava rocks. My shoes were almost destroyed by this point and the sharp, jagged and uneven surface of the lava rock caused so much pain in my feet and completely took out what ever life was left in my trail runners. Also, lots of route finding and cross country in this area.

Highlights: Amazing mountain pass with many views of waterfalls. Glaciers.

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT19) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin '''

Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (mostly) / Frank '''

2 days & continued to GPT10 on 2nd day.
There is at least one place to stay in Abanico & as you go on the road past Abanico towards the park there are a few cabins & one campsite. In the park @ small lake 2K before Conaf1 there is a campsite with cabins. You pay 4000CLP entry @ Conaf but I went in before 8AM, no one there. At the pass, around 2050M on the shoulder of Antuco, I was able to slide down the lowest part of the snowfield. Northbound or earlier in the season you may need to go around it.
Virtually no shade on this route. 3 small shops in Trapa Trapa. Last one, Provisiones Bety, has a rest area, she sometimes has bread.

Went on OH-PR-V@09-B-#002, talked to Carabineros @ Border Control & told them I would stay in Chile & continue to Trapa Trapa. They were OK with that & didn't ask to see my passport, so I would say there is no need to divert around the border post any more.

* '''2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom '''

Easy hitch from Abanico to the start of the National Park (~10km into the section). The CONAF station at the park entrance took us longer than expected to pass through and explain what we were doing (they appeared to be unsure as to whether we were crossing the border into Argentina or not). However after explaining our route to them they let us pass without paying the entrance fee to the national park. The cross country sections were easy to navigate and overall the trail was of good quality.

* '''2020-Jan-10 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

We passed the big snowfield at the right side through the rocks, as Matus suggested. It was steep but ok and definitively the shorter way around the snow. Nothing to add to the previous comments. In Trapa Trapa we continued straight to Section 10.

* '''2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna '''

GPT09 and GPT10 Season section log.
We combined these two sections.
Trail in both section is in good condition. There is snowfield in first pass as was mentioned. We went left, but it would be worth to check is it's possible to go through rocks on the right as it seems much shorter.
Water is not marked on a map but there is a stream before the pass.
Resuply in Trapa Trapa is very limited. They had few tunas, other caned fish, some pasta, flour, cola, crisps... We didn't check for accomodation.
We stayed in a paid campsite at Laguna el Barco for 5000 both. Around 8 there was a woman selling bread and sweet pastry, but mind that it was weekend.
Resuply in Guallali again very limited. They have tunas, caned fish, pasta, oil, crackers and bit more. We are staying in a house next to the shop.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Antuco
Many smaller supermarkets, which have most things - easy enough to resupply here.
One of the two ferreterías has gas (the one furthest from Abanico).
Many accommodation options and some restaurants.
There is an ATM at the town square which even gives some smaller notes

Also panaderias (one selling good sopaipillas for $300 if you haven't tried yet), restaurants but also food truck, brewery

*Abanico
At least one shop. A pizzeria
Bus to Antuco/Los Angeles

*Parque antuco :
Camping for 10kCLP/pers/night.
Also cabañas for 2 and 4 pers.
Shower almost hot.
No or very bad phone coverage (entel)
Website : https://www.parqueantuco.cl/
The owner is really nice. Possible to give him a call in antuco (when still phone coverage) to know if open.

*Trapa Trapa
3 shops but they are all small. They all have biscuits & soft drinks. First one has ice cream & flour. Second one has pasta, matches, chocolate, canned fish. Third one ( Provisiones Bety) sometimes has bread.

Accomodation in a small room at the waypoint "lodging, food" - 20,000 pesos for dinner, breakfast and accommodation.
10,000 for lunch (soup, tomatoes, harina tostada, tea)

Bus to Ralco

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

Bus from Los Angeles to Antuco about once an hour in daytime. A few of them continue to Abanico or you can hitch fairly easily (also see here: [[Volc%C3%A1n_Antuco#Acceso_en_transporte_p.C3.BAblico_y_autostop]].

Updated January 2022: Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends

- Many people going and coming from the National Park, it hadn't been easy to hitchhike to reach Antuco but it worked

- Bus from Antuco to Santiago - Terminal Sur leaving at 21:30 and arriving at 6:30

Company : Nilahue

$26.300 for semi-cama

Commentaries : "cheap" company, no USB-plugs, not much space for the legs, the bus stop is at the entrance of Antuco coming from the Andes, it's a shelter made of bricks just next to a food truck selling fries and hamburgers

Update nov2024 :

Night bus santiago --> antuco 16k CLP ( not every day but multiple/week). Seets confortables, 2 plugs (TranSantin)

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

Update November 2023: The Chilean Border Control had be relocated and is now closer to the border and not any more on the GPT route. Therefore it is not any more required to sneak around the Chilean Border Control.

This is the only place where it is strongly recommended to sneak around a police station. This recommendation applies in particular to all non-Chileans going southbound.
The reason: The forward border control Pichachen is located about 20 km before the actual border. And only here the regional superiors of the PDI (Policia de Investigation) came up with the silly rule that everyone that passes the border control post towards Argentina gets stamped out of the country regardless if he leaves Chile or not. They simply ignore the fact that a few kilometers down the main road at Piedra del Indio long before reaching Argentina a horse trail diverts towards the next village in Chile called Trapa Trapa. Should you get an exit stamp into your passport but continue to hike in Chile you will be an illegal alien without a valid tourist visa. This may not instantly cause you a problem but the next time you want to leave Chile orderly i.e. from an airport the immigration system will show that you illegally in Chile and the police will assume that you trespassed into Chile. And that’s taken pretty serious. Forget about your flight and your further travel plans.
Every hikers that passed this border control got into some kind of trouble and caused these officers a headache. Some hikers could convince them after long discussions to pass without an exit stamp. Some hikers got and exit stamp and run into problems later. Some hikers pretended to walk back and took a partly overgrown route to walk around the border control. When we hiked this section in January 2014 I got unasked an exit stamp while they “just checked my documents” but luckily after a long talk I could convince them to give me a new entry stamp.
You can’t blame these poor officials at the border control for this situation; they understand these occasional hikers but their regional superiors gave them strict orders. In short: this place is a potential disaster for hikers and hikers are a disturbance for these officials.
Therefore, to avoid this issue I simply rerouted the regular hiking route to bypass the border control post Pichachen. It’s easier for everyone: for the hikers and for the poor police officer that have to comply with this silly order. The re-routed track leads cross country through the normally dry lake bed of the Laguna de Las Lajas and just crosses the main road at the diversion to Trapa Trapa. Walking around the border control may be suspicious but is not illegal and saves everyone nerves and endless discussions. It actually prevents you from getting into an illegal migration status while staying in Chile.
The Regular Packrafting Route anyway bypasses the border control.
Luckily this is the only border control post I’m aware off where such a stupid rule is applied. In many other forward border controls you need to proactively approach the police and request your exit stamp if you plan to leave Chile. Should you just visit the area between the border control and the actual border you can normally just pass or explain your intentions.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT09 - Volcán Antuco]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT09-Laguna_de_las_Lajas.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]