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GPT38 (Glaciar Chico)

2024-12-06T16:23:17Z

Gasparpas78: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

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=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

*21-11-2024 to 25-11-2024 / 4 days / NOBO / RR / Sophie and Gaspar

After skirting Lago del Desierto with stunning views of Glacier Huemul, we crossed the border, passing an Argentine checkpoint at the lake's end and a Chilean checkpoint at Candelario Mancilla. There’s no other legal option but to go directly from one checkpoint to the other! In Candelario Mancilla, we were warmly hosted at the only available campsite by Don Ricardo and Doña María Luisa (you can purchase some basic provisions if needed, like tortillas, eggs, etc.).

We decided to circle the peninsula to reach La Carmela, located at Ventisquero Chico, where Don Lucho and his son David live. To do so, you must first check back in with the Carabineros and inform them of your planned itinerary. They’ll take your photo, ask about your gear and food supply to ensure you’re well-equipped (apparently, rescues are not uncommon). We were the first this season to take the trail around the peninsula, and it’s virtually impossible without a GPS, as the path is often overgrown with bush and misleading animal tracks. It took us 11.5 hours to cover just 35 km—but the views of the lake and the peninsula Florida across it are spectacular!

At Ventisquero Chico, to cross, you need to arrive before 7:00 a.m. or after 7:00 p.m. to be ferried across in their boat ($20/person).

Once at La Carmela, the route becomes easier—4 hours to reach the viewpoint of O’Higgins Glacier and another 4 to return, following relatively straightforward paths. On our way back to Candelario Mancilla, we took the trail over the pass, which posed no major difficulties apart from a 50-meter section of bush at the start of the ascent.

For the transfer from Candelario Mancilla to Villa O’Higgins, the best option is to speak with Don Ricardo or Doña María Luisa, who coordinate with the two companies that transport passengers. The service is not regular and depends heavily on weather conditions (especially wind) on the lake.

'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2023, so references to trails codes below are probably wrong.'''
[Tomáš]: Previously, the route initially followed the MR that goes to the Argentinian border before taking what is now RH-TL-V {38} [20.2/57.1+15.2] and RH-TL-V {38} [21.8/27.2+9.3], before crossing into Argentina over the pass near Refugio Diablo and then the option now called 39-01 that follows down along Rio Diablo to the Argentinian border control. See Anh's story below on how he was searched for when he took this alternative. However, later Tomáš alone and Juliette and Martin together managed to follow the original regular route without major issues. It seems it is still ok if you stamp your passport one day at the Chilian border control and the next day at the Argentinian ones, but more datapoints are needed.

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 1 + 2 + 3 / Joscha '''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-23.5] + OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6]

After km 6.5 there is plenty of water. You have to do a few, easy fords before the Pass. At km 12.6 I stayed in the northern side of the Rio Bullicioso and rejoyned the RR st km 13.9. Therefore I avoided 2 Fords. The RR around the Pass was covered in a thin layer of snow. -48.902884, -72.929411 offers a nice view on Lago O'Higgins. I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Its possible to camp on the shore there a little north of the trail, but without wind protection. Therefore I went back to the Settler at 23.5 and camped there. You have to hang your food, there are lots of mice here.

Day 2: RR [23.5-33.4] + OH38-03 [0.0-4.3]

I left my Tent at km 23.5 and hiked to the Glacier Chico Viewpoint and back. Plenty of water along this trail. I liked the views of glacier Chico on the first kilometer of OH38-03 more than those at the viewpoint. But the view of Lago Chico was pretty dope from the viewpoint. Trail was relatively easy to follow.

Day 3: OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6] + OH38-2 [25.7-3.1]

I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Therefore I went back on OH38-02. I did not follow precisely the gpx track, because there are lots of trails. It worked out quite well. I only once came to close to the cliff coast and had to scramble up a little bit. I rejoyned the gpx track at around km 9.5. At 9.5 there is a flat meadow north of the trail for camping. I camped next to the abondend settler building at km 3.1. There was lots of water all allong the trail.

Day 4: OH38-2 [3.1-0.0] + RR [0.0-6.5] + OH38-01

I forgot to get the Certificado de Salvoconducto to leave Chile in advance. The border police let me use their wifi to apply for it. I had to wait about 90 minutes until I got the Certificado and than the exit stamp. There is plenty of water on the OH38-01. I camped right next to the argentinian border controll station. It is a really nice spot.

* '''2024 Ma 18 to 19/ 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

Day 1 : Candelario Mancilla (Poste frontière) - -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandonned : NOT ABANDONNED

The ferry between villa O higgings and Candelario Mancilla (Chilean border crossing) costs 55,000 pesos per person and runs Monday/Thursday/Saturday from villa O higgings from 7am (subject to bad weather).

Arrival at Chilean border crossing at 11:30 am. We ask if it's possible to stop halfway and pitch the tent before the Argentinian border post. Apparently there's no problem if we camp after the border with Argentina, but the Chilean police advise us to arrive at the Argentinian border today anyway. We choose to do the RR, since apparently the police won't come and get us if we don't reach the border that evening.

There's snow quite early on at the first pass. Our feet are wet for the whole section. Before the pass, navigation is not too difficult, even if the path is full of water. After the pass, and before arriving at the puesto (which is not abandoned by the way), the paths no longer seem to be in use and the vegetation completely obscures the path. We arrive late at the camp. The puesto is by no means abandoned, but there's no possibility of sheltering in it, as it's locked with a padlock and belongs to someone.

WARNING: We pitch our tent in the rain next to the abandoned puesto. Bad idea. Mice attack at night. Apparently they love oats. A bag of oats (zip-lock bag) inside the tent is nibbled (and the wall of the tent too). The only solution seems to be to hang them up.

Day 2: -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandoned: NOT ABANDONED - gendarmaria national argentina

A long day. Sometimes we can see the glaciar Chico, but there are clouds in the sky. The route is difficult to follow during the day and there's a lot of snow at the pass (at least 20 cm on the ground (plus water underneath sometimes). We didn’t have time to dry ourlselves during the night, so thé section appeard us as really cold. The refuge at Lake El Diablo is a real lifesaver under the snow. It allowed us to eat sheltered from the wind. We could sleep in it, but we weren't sure whether we'd be able to build a fire inside. We decide to finish the section during the day to get the stamp to enter Argentina later that day. The Argentinian border post closes at 8pm. Fortunately, we arrive a few minutes early. No worries with our exit stamp, which was dated yesterday, and we don't give it a second thought. Don't expect anything from the gendarmerie post: after spending two days in the rain, snow and wet feet, we thought we could ask them to let us sleep somewhere dry. They categorically refused, and we couldn't even pitch our tent under a garage or any of the small shelters they owned. We're a little frustrated with their inhospitality, while it’s raining for deux days and their seem to have enough places inside. But it's clear that's not why they're here, so we can't really blame them.

We recommend doing the trek in three days instead, as the path is difficult to follow, sometimes overgrown and in the water most of the time. Stop at the el diablo refuge to cut the second day into two. No need to worry about border stamps, apparently.

* '''2024-Mar-05 to Mar-07 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Hiking to Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins (RP km23.5 to 35.6) + Opt02 / Matthias'''

The route: (Villa O`Higgins -) Candelario Mancilla – RR to Peninsula/Estancia Ventisquiero Chico - Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins - back to Ventisquiero Chico – Opt02 to Candelario Mancilla

I enjoyed the remote detour to the viewpoint of Glaciar O'Higgins and the icefield a lot! You have to be lucky to reach Don Luis for the short boat transfer from the peninsula (see below).

Day1 - RR

Arrived with the ferry around 9:00 am at Candelario Mancilla. At the border officials I had to fill in an “expedition” formular for my hiking specifying my route. They clearly pointed out I have to return before leaving to Argentina. I wanted to leave a bag there with stuff I didn`t need and asked them to radio to Don Luis for the boat transfer the next morning, but they denied both of my wishes. Hiking on the road on RR I was passed by Don Tito who is/was doing the taxi for the other tourists of the boat to the border. I could leave the bag with him :-), so continuing with lighter backpack.
Like written here before, the trail leading to the pensinsula (formed by the old terminal moraine) is marked partially and easy to follow until it reaches previously (>10 a) burned area when going downhill, then it is not clear and there is also partially bushbashing.
Camped for two nights behind the estancia among cherry and apple trees with ripe fruits! First night very windy and it was difficult to built up the tent, though at first sight the place seemed a bit wind-protected.

Day 2 - daytrip to the viewpoint of Glaciar O`Higgins

Stunning views, VERY windy. The path is named 38RP as well as 37RP-option16! At the end of the península you have to cross the lake/river. It is too deep to ford, so one needs the help of Don Luis (he introduced himself with that name and also the border official used Luis and not the nickname Lucho). The farmer lives on the other side but from inside his house he has no view to the river. I was lucky this morning was not very windy anymore, so his dogs were alarmed by my shoutings and also lucky that Don Luis was still at home and not off with his horse.
The path up to the next pass is again easy to find and sometimes marked. After that I partially followed the GPT track, partially other trails.

Day 3 – option 02 back to Candelario Mancilla:

I never used my GPS that constantly before on the GPT like on this trail. There is some bushbashing, overall the trail is okay. But there are very many other animal trails of same or better quality as an option… From Caleta Esmeralda onwards the trail is clear and easy. Stayed at the house of Don Tito (next to the campsite which is run by his brother Ricardo).

Side plot:
The first morning my gas cooker (MSR windburner) stopped working (and it still does not work). Probably because the jet is blocked. Changed to gas cooker with this GPT trip, before I was using gasoline cooker for years… They come with a filament to clean, for the gas cooker I could not find such a fine wire until now.

* '''24-Mar-02 to 2024-Mar-03 / 26 hours / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tomáš'''

I arrived at port at around 9:40. I set off immediately to border control and so was the first, which ensured a speedy processing. However, I was given a stamp with date of the previous day, which I did not check. The carabiniero did not ask nor told me anything and I reciprocated.

I wanted to do the RR, figuring I would probably be able to do it in roughly 24 hours. Jan said we have 48 hours and I did not read Anh's report until midway, so I thought it would be fine. It was a very cold and superwindy morning walking up into snowy mountains, very pretty. There is a trail shortcut in the first zigzag of the MR. No further shortcuts found, one trail that looked promising turned into BB mid-way. After an hour, I turned off from the road. There used to be a bridge over Rio Obstaculo, but now it is an easy if freezing ford. The trail is initially marked with metal plates, but that soon stops. It feels like it used to be official but has since beem abandoned? However, the trail is mostly easy to follow. Once above the treeline, the wind was vicious. The valley was also quite marshy (after the rain?), I could not keep my shoes dry. Valley is faster going than the coastal traverse.

Going down to the lake to the landbridge I kept loosing the trail and ended up CCing the last 200 vertical meters to the left of the trail. From the landbridge, the trail is marked with big red circles and is probably occasionaly used by tourists brought by ferry. The moutains were unfortunately semi-clouded but the views were still splendid. No worthy sidetrip for me then though. I reached Refugio Diabolo at 34.4 at 2130 and it was occupied (the only people on the trail apart from the road) and asleep, so I slept nearby in a tent. In the morning they told me I should have gone in.

I started going down at 7:30 the next day (being a night owl, that is quite early for me). The first three km, I kept losing the trail, but it then improved. It is actually marked exactly like Huella Andina! I arrived at border control around eleven. Nobody seemed to be looking for me. The carabiniero noticed I had a date in my passport from two days ago. I tried explaining that it was a mistake of the Chilian side (I think - the date was wrong by one day), but I was almost ordered to walk back for a new stamp. In the end I softened him, showing him a picture from the port from the previous day. It was tense ten minutes. Seems to me the checking of people who crossed happens at least after noon? The regular route is perfectly doable by most people in 36 hours I think, so you might be fine as long as you arrive (at most in late afternoon) with no more than yesterday's stamp. It needs more datapoints I think. I would have preferred to be slower though.

* '''2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-25 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Andrew'''

In the morning I said goodbye to Nicole and Miseal, and took the ferry from Bahia Pescado to Candelario Mancela. Stamped out on the Chilean side, then started hiking. Dirt road until the border, then a nice trail through the woods to the Argentinian customs at the north end of Lago Desierto. Camped (free) at the north end of Lago Desierto, then hiked to the south end. Caught a bus to El Chalten at the south of the lake, at the time it was 13.000 pesos and you can pay with card at the kiosk near the south campground. It also seemed easy to hitchhike.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-23 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : gravel road and nice trail easy to follow in the forest
- Water : easy to find
- Camping spot : a camping in Candelario Mancela, a free camping just in front of the lake at the Argentinian border, a camping on the other side of the lake
- Weather : sunny
- Resupply : we left a bag of food in Villa O'Higgins at the ferry company and so had our ressuply back in Candelaria Mancela / at the end of the section in El chalten there is a little little 'shop' on the other side of the lake with crackers, cookies and some instant dishes, you can pay by card
- Overall : easy section, some nice views on the Fitzroy

* '''2024-Feb- 01 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days/hiking/ SOBO/38-01/Paulina'''

I wanted to do section 38, it seems complicated due to boarder crossing rules, but I don't think it's impossible, I did not do it more because very bad weather forecast for 2 next days.
Anyway, I met some people who tried to go from Lago Desierto to Paso Diabolo but they had to abondon their plan because of the very high level of the river to cross.

Day 1

A very easy walk mostly on a gravel road. Very nice campground ( free) at Lago Desierto

Day 2
Nice walk along Lago Desierto. No difficulties, nice path all the time. Once I reached the other siide of the Lago I hitch-hiked directly to El Chaiten ( very easy on this road)

* '''2023-Jan-6 / 7 day / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Option 2 + Option 1/ Tom Pieper'''

Not much to add to the previous posts. Stunning route. A packraft is indeed really useful here as Don Lucho was not around when I crossed the river at his farm the first time. I waited two days for wind to calm down at perfectly wind protected camp {38} [32.1/744] (which I found superior to the other nearby campspot) but strong gale did not allowed me to pass beyond Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874]. Absolut impossible in that conditions. So I returned on the 3 day. I asked Don Lucho if he can notify carabinieros via radio that I will be delayed, which worked. I toked option 2 to return to Candelario Manzillo. Track is not the best from time to time. Stay close to GPT route as off trail might take much more longer. Good camp spots at the two abandoned settlers places and a really beautiful one at a turquoise river at S 48° 50.470’ W 072° 51.272’. There is no water after Port {38-02} [7.1/270] (Bahia Esmeralda) including second abandoned settler place. You might consider climbing down to the lake here to get water. Got my exit stamp at candelario manzillo and toked expensive transit (30,000$) by car to the border (option 1)

* '''From 2024-01-01 to 2023-01-03 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 + OPT2 // Quentin Clavel'''

Same story as previous contributions here, the customs officers (who were very nice by the way) said it was impossible to do the RR as I will be in illegal situation.
If it would be only the illegality stuff, it wouldn't have been a problem, but the thing is that rhet communicate with the Chilean side, and if you're not on the other side after one day they engage research, what I absolutely want to avoid, that people have to commit material, technical or human resources simply for or because of me.

It means if you want to explore glaciar chico or around :
Going NOBO : you first have to go straight from ARG border to CH border, stamp your passport and then go explore the area.
Going SOBO : explaining your expedition to the border but don't stamp your passport. Do your exploration, then come back to the CH border, stamp your passport and then go straight to ARG border.

So from ARG border, I've been straight to the Chilean side. Then I said them that I wanted to explore the area near glaciar Chico. The carabineros agreed, but before letting me go, I had to fill a form to describe my expedition, my emergencies contacts, the number of days I planned to go, numbers of days of food I had, and took me in picture. I was surprised about the picture but he said to me that it was just in case of disappearance to be able to publish a wanted notice. Perfect aha !

Anyway, I backtracked until the junction tu "La península" then engage myself on this nice track. Had to cross 3 easy rivers, and have been scratched numerous times by the bush which took over at the end of the trail, which was not easy to follow by the way.

The views on Lago O'Higgins were absolutely outstanding ! Glaciar Chico was a bit faraway, but still nice to see as well!

I arrived to la peninsula and walked till the estencia la Carmelia, Trying to have the attention of the settler, at the estencia la Carmelia. But seems like that he was not there. So I had to backtrack and not go on the GPT37P option 16 to glaciar O'Higgins. Pretty disappointed about that, would have been amazing to have a packraft at this time.... Anyway.

I backtrack the peninsula, then took the option 2 (Lago Costa). That was a very good decision, the views are stunning (again more at the end, when you arrive near the border). But track is not easy to find at all. We must congratulate the wild animals who created an incredible labyrinth of trails up there !

The bridge announced as destroyed is the one 400m from the border, above Rio Obstaculo. I looked at its condition 3 days before when I was at the border, to find out if it was feasible. and it was, that's why I decided to take this route. And didn't regretted it.

* '''2024-Jan-02 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+option 1 / Stiina & Kris'''

We arrived early morning at Candelario Manzilla, had no issues at the border control (we had our Salvaconducto). We did ask - just in case - if we could do the loop hike but the officer said the only way to hike the RR is to not exit Chile, hike out towards the west and then backtrack to the Chilean border control. The 21 km hike to the Argentinian border was easy, except for all the touristas with the bicycles😂. When it started chucking rain down we decided to camp there. Rained hard all night but no wind. There is a toilet for turistas and behind it a covered shelter with tables and benches, which was nice during rain.

* '''GPT38 / Option 4 (Campo Hielo Sur: Glaciar Chico to Circo de los Altares and back) / 6 days Hiking on Glaciers with Mountain Guide / 2023-Dec-29 to 2024-Jan-03 / Meylin, Masha, Misha, Jan'''

We planned this guided tour onto the Southern Patagonian Icefield several months in advance. We arranged this tour with the mountain guide Leo Muñoz (leoskatan@hotmail.com, WhatsApp +56 9 6904 9561) who knows the Northern and the Southern Patagonian Icefield very well and who lives with his family next to Glacier O’Higgins on the shore of Lago O’Higgins about 70 boat kilometers from Villa O’Higgins.

We agreed in November 2023 to make an attempt somewhen in the first half of January of 2024 as soon as the weather forecast promises a decent weather window. On December 25 Leo suggested to start on December 29 as wind and precipitation forecast predicted 6 decent days.

Day 1: We met in the afternoon at Lago Chico (where Lago Chico drains into Lago O’Higgins), continued by boat on Lago Chico to an island that is partially covered by Glacier Chico, pulled the boat up into a safe location and started right on Glacier Chico. We reached in the evening the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). Starting right on the glacier avoided an otherwise demanding river crossing.

Day 2: In a long day we reached the third refuge (Refugio Garcia Soto). We walked mostly on Glacier Chico but in areas where this glacier is steep and with deep cracks we left the glacier and walked in rocky terrain. In this terrain is also the second refuge (Refugio Piedra Roja) where we stopped for lunch.

Day 3: In a demanding day we walked over the icefield to Circo los Altares. The wet snow covered all cracks of the icefield but made walking tiresome. For safety reasons we walked the entire distance roped together (2 groups of 3 persons linked together). We camped one night at Circo los Altares and enjoyed a good view of Cerro Torres in the evening and morning.

Day 4: In a similar tiresome day we returned to Refugio Garcia Soto. We arrived around 2 pm in afternoon what permitted a good rest. This refuge offers ample space and is a good place to wait a day or two if the weather makes this necessary.

Day 5: We returned to the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). If necessary we might have returned to the boat on the sane day but the good weather forecast for the next day made such an effort unnecessary.

Day 6: On a short morning we returned on glacier Chico to the boat, packed our gear into the boat and travelled by boat to our guides home (Rio Condor). On the way we stopped briefly at a settlers home (La Carmela) to purchase a lamb for a Patagonian asado al palo.

Conclusions:

1. Leaving the exact start date open was perfect as it permitted our guide to choose a descent weather window.

2. In case of a shorter weather window a shorter route could have been chosen (in example to Refuigo Garcia Soto only.

3. This was our first experience walking on glaciers but this was perfectly feasible with our experienced guide.

4. Boat safety regulations on Lago O’Higgins required our mountain guide to do the boat trip with a second person that has motor boat license. Therefore a second guide accompanied us. This added safety but also cost.

5. Returning with the mountain guide to his home at Rio Condor before continuing by packraft is an experience on its own and lift the entire trip to a higher level.

6. We send some of the required equipment in advance to our mountain guide but he would have been able to equip up to 6 persons with his gear.

* '''Copied from Jan's Facebook post December 2023: "GPT38: Border Crossing: Candelario Mancilla (CL) - Lago El Desierto (AR)'''

We now learned that both border controls speak to each other and exchange how many persons crossed the border and are meant to arrive on the other side. If a person does not arrive within 2 days a search is initiated. Therefore it is not any more possible to hike the longer more scenic route between collecting the exit and entry stamps of both countries.

Therefore all hikers must take the direct route (see image red line) and visit the more scenic parts around Lago Chico and Peninsula La Carmela either before exiting Chile or after collecting the Chilean entry stamp.

Alternatively you might openly explain your plans and try to get an official approval but this seams quite unlikely."

* '''2023-Dec-20 to 2023-Dec-20 / 1 day/ NOBO / Lago del desierto - Candelario Mancilla/ Option 1/ Alex & Christophe'''

Since you have to collect your exit and entry stamp on the same day, we took the fastest way between the two border controls. Once we finished with the formalities on the chilean side, one boat for Villa O'Higgins was waiting for us. I think we got lucky.

If you want to go to glaciar chico, you have to go to Candelario Mancilla and then, go and back to the glacier, all on the chilean side. Passo del diablo is a forbidden pass to cross the border between Argentina and Chile.

* '''2023-12-10 to 13 Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days / NOBO / Hiking from Candelario Mansilla to Don Lucho peninsula and back'''

This was an enjoyable hike with good views! When we came from Argentina, it rained a lot, and was very muddy. We stayed at the campsite at Candelario Mansilla for one night and went Westbound on the regular route, crossing the river shortly after the beginning of the trail at km7. After the substantial rainfall, it was almost waist deep, but crossable with caution. The pass towards the abandoned settler home at km23.5 was quite muddy again, and in the last bit of the descent, the trail was overgrown and required attention to not lose. We camped outside the hut. The next day we went on part of Option 37P-16 as a day trip. We headed to the river (outflow of Lago Chico) and waited for the settler Don Lucho to notice us and to ferry us to the other side using his boat. This worked finally, after waiting for almost 3h. We did a nice trip up to the pass and followed one of the many horse trails to some mountain lakes and viewpoints. We let Don Lucho ferry us back to camp and headed back the next day. After two days of dry weather, the previously problematic river was now easily passable, with water at knee level.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. We carried a lot of food with us from Argentina: enough for 38, 37 and to be able to spend a few days in Candelario Mansilla in case the ferry is delayed due to bad weather. We decided against road walking with heavy packs, and arranged for Ricardo (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007), who runs the campground at Candelario Mansilla, to pick us up from the border by car. Ricardo is a very nice guy, and we stayed in his hostel after registering at the border checkpoint. The hostel was 15.000 CLP per person, the pickup from the border 20.000 for two people and the drop-off at the junction (X {38-01} at km0) 10.000 for two people. In high season he might not have time or charge more. Don Lucho asked for 10.000 for the return trip for the two of us.
I believe that Ricardo puts you in the first-come-first-served queue for the ferry from Candelario Mansilla when you first arrive there -- but I'm not even sure if there is even an official queue (in our case, the ferry was not full, so it didn't matter). When Ricardo drove us to the junction, he also made us register our hiking plans with border guards. The guards wanted to see that we are sufficiently prepared. We showed them our GPS and inReach, but they were most wow-ed by the locus maps app with the GPT track files and kept asking where they could get such a detailed map of the area ;-).
For the logistics regarding section 37, see our trip report on [[GPT37H|that wiki page]].

* '''2023 Ahn, Warning between exit & entry:'''
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will really go looking for you.

* '''2023-12-04 Anh / 3 days / NOBO / RR + OH-TL-V + RP-TL-V'''
Day 1: After the exit stamp from the Argentinian border control in Lago del Desierto, I turned left to RR to Lago Diablo. The path is sometimes hard to find and with my heavy backpack I couldn‘t hike fast. I had to cross the stream twice without shoes. But it was no problem (knee-deep, good weather). After Lago Diablo I turned left via OH-TL-V to Glacier Chico. I did not find the camp {38-03} [1.8/878].

Day 2: Back to RH-TL-V towards the connecting channel to Glaciar O'Higgins. The trail was a little easier to find, but not better to walk because hardly anyone had walked it in recent years.
Settler {38} [23.5/261] in the intersection is no longer inhabited, but the owner has a sign in front of the house. He allows free camping on his property and possibly even overnight stays in the house (with kitchen).
But I go on to Settler {38} [25.3/268] to cross the connecting channel by boat.

It was already 5:00PM and I just wanted to set up my tent & enjoy the evening quietly. At that moment, a motorboat with 3 men with backpacks arrived. They were not tourists, but border guards (carabineros). They were not pleasant at first. I understood from their Spanish that they were looking for me and that I was not allowed to be here. For the first time on this trip, I was lucky that I couldn't speak any Spanish and they couldn't speak any English. Otherwise they would be angry!

I was able to explain with place names that I was not a criminal but a hiker. They had a long discussion in the house and in the end they said that I didn't have to come to the border station right now, but that they would come with me to Glaciar O'Higgins immediately!
After a long day from Glaciar Chico, I didn't want to hike 7km up with 600Hm, but I had no other choice. So we started at 6:00 PM, the settler owner went ahead and the 3 young border guards climbed the mountain with full energy ahead, me behind. It was good that I don't usually run at my limit and still had a day's reserve at that moment. The 3 carabineros asked me from time to time how I was doing and whether I needed help -> very nice.

After 4km, the settler owner explained that it would soon be dark and he had to go back. He showed the Carabineros the way back on the (somewhat outdated) paper map. The Carabineros have the best modern equipment (GoreTex, expedition tent...) but no GPS navigation device and don't know the way. With my GPS navigation device, we became a team and had a lot of fun all the way to camp.
The atmosphere around the campfire was much more relaxed. It turned out that they had taken a lot of food with them to look for me, but had left it behind in the settler. So of course I had cooked for them, it was really delicious and after a hike it was even better than usual. The 3 Carabineros said they had never eaten so well. We enjoyed the sunset at Glaciar O'Higgins together and laughed into the night.

Day 3: At 7:00 AM, just like the military, we continued on RP-TL-V towards the pass. It was great fun with my 3 new friends and the views with the best weather were simply magnificent. However, 2km before the pass, my Carabineros wanted to go back because they now consider the hike to be strenuous and with respect. It's a pity but they are in charge despite their new friendship! I'm still very happy that they found me, it was an unforgettable experience! We were able to help each other, they are 3 cool and very very helpful Carabinos.
RP-TL-V is easy for GPT hikers, much easier than the other two sections.

Back to the settler they had called the patrol boat by radio and we went to Candelario Mancilla with the very modern and super stable HiTech boat. I got my entry stamps and was even invited to dinner at the border control station. After that I ended up in Villa O'Higgins.
It was a bit of a shame to break off GPT38 like that, but I will never forget the best moments and the 3 new Carabineros friends. I'm starting to love GPT now!!!

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Apr-19 to 2023-Apr-21 / 3 days / RR / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

Beautiful section! The detour to Glaciar Chico is definitely worth it, and so is the viewpoint.

On the first day, starting around 8 AM, we passed the border control without any problem, and followed the trail in quite good pace to the pass. It was very windy there in our case, but there are places to hide. The trail is pretty clear all the time. This changes during the descent down to the peninsula, where you need to look carefully at the navigation as the path divides into different directions. Marked camp on the peninsula looked like a good place to stay, but we decided to do some more and continued for about 4 km. We camped in the forest, where we were able to find a few spots almost without wind, but in more extreme conditions it might be harder to find a 100% safe place.

On the next day we continued and left our backpacks in the forest to go check the viewpoint. It took us a little over 3 hrs + some time for the photos etc. The trail is very easy to follow and except of the beginning and end its not even that windy. If the weather is not the best or you don’t have time, we would recommend to do at least first few hundred meters of the optional trail to get better view of the glacier and floating icebergs. Back on the RR we made a little less than half of the way to the border control and again camped in the forest.

The last day was all about forest walking. First views of the Fitz Roy on the way to the border control. There, the officer noticed the old stamp and asked where we stayed, but was probably just curious and had no problem with our honest answer about doing the detour and camping in the forest.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Mar-20 to 2023-Mar-22 / SOBO / RR + option 4 / Villa O'Higgins - Lago del Desierto / Anna & Christopher'''

Amazing section, one of our favourites so far!

In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

We started with seven days worth of food, because we planned to go to El Chaltén without a resupply (GPT 38+39 with all options).
The weather was great on our first day and after we got through the border control we started walking around 11:15 a.m.
The trail is in a pretty good condition. Your feet will get wet though. With the nice weather and the good trail we camped at km 21 in the forest close to the stream.

Then the trail becomes gradually a bit worse and we had to do some BB and CC along the lake. At the junction with option 4 we left our packs and went to the mirador. We had good weather and the view from up there is amazing. We highly recommend doing it, if the weather is good. Then we went back down again and camped in the forest at the junction. There is a stream close by to fetch water.

The trail becomes super good again once you reach the settler at Lago del Desierto. The border control was fast and the staff was really friendly. We continued along the lake. At some point it started to rain, so we camped next to a stream at approx. km 4.6. At km 4.3 there would have been a more rain and wind protected camp.

The next day we had a great view of Fitz Roy in the morning sun. We arrived at the other side around 10 a.m. There is no bus leaving around this hour, opposite of what the gendarm at the border told us. All the buses/cars leave in the afternoon around 4 p.m.
We made a break at the restaurant and enjoyed a warming mate tea before we continued to section 39.

* '''2023-Mar-16 to 2023-Mar-20 / 4 days / SOBO / RR + option 5 / Louis & Rémi'''

We started at Candelario Mansilla and we wanted to go in front of the Glaciar O'Higgins following the lake with option 5 and then option 2. Option 5 is really worth it, views all along the lake are incredible, I highly recommend it. We slept near the Settler @km 17.8, nobody was there.

The next day we tried to cross this water canal between Lago O'Higgins and Lago Chico, but it is unfordable, you have to yell for the settler who lives on the other side. We did, we saw him, but he didnt come... So we slept next to the settler @km 23.5 on RR and we tried the 3rd day too but still nobody to help us to cross. Well, I think this settler isnt reliable if you wanna do option 2 without a packraft.

So we continued our way to Argentina, sleeping @km 31.4 (the puesto is more than abandonned, it is destroyed but it is flat and there is no wind).

This portion provide a nice view of the Glaciar Chico.

Next we went directly to the Argentinian border and we didn't have any problem to get the stamp on our passports. We slept there, it is free, there is nobody and the view of the Fitz Roy above the Lago del Desierto is definitely worth it !

* '''2023-Mar-04 to 2023-Mar-07 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR + Option 4 / Candelario Mansilla - Lago Desierto / Ondrej'''

I wasn’t lucky with the weather so this section turned out into rainy, muddy and snowy feat for me. It felt remote and adventurous. If I could choose I would do at least the second day in a good weather to enjoy the views.

On the first day, I got dropped of by the boat at Candelario Marcilla around 10am. Getting the stamp from Chilean carabineros took longer than expected, around one hour. A number of hikers accumulated there and the carabineros said that we have wait for them to upload our names to the system(?). Then they just asked for my occupation and gave me the exit stamp. I then hiked the stretch on the main road, forded Rio Obstaculo right after (the deepest ford on the section I would say, it was easy even after a day of rain) and then over the pass. At the pass you will come into a long flat valley which in my case started turning into a big muddy/swampy plain. It also started snowing. The falling wet snow and the soaky trails pushed the hike to the boundaries of my comfort limits (but still manageable). I camped at the Settler waypoint (km23.5). According to a person running a hostel in villa o higgins, the Settler’s place has been abandonded for a while now (presumably someone other bought the land) and both locals and international hikers are now using the garden of the settler’s house to camp. The area around the house features thick tall trees that provide a good shelter from wind and rain, some open sheds with a good roof (but all looked uncomfortable for sleeping) and a dry toilet. The house itself is locked with a padlock and cannot be used by visitors. I stayed in a tree covered area next to the house for two nights as the next day was raining all day. Foxes, various birds and wild cows kept me a company.

From the settler, it is a relatively easy trail up to the crossroad at km33.4. The trail is ocassionaly overgrown and muddy but nothing dramatic. Nice views over the lake Chico and the glacier. I was impressed by a floating iceberg that made its way slowly across the lake. I had my lunch at the crossroad (km33.4) and decided to leave my backpack there and hike/jog to the glaciar viewpoint (Option 4). It took me about 2:10 hours there and back to the crossroad. I jogged parts of it. The weather got bad during the loop (clouds and rain/snow) so I unfortnunately saw nothing but a bit more of the Glaciar Chico once reaching the viewpoint. All distant peaks were obscured in clouds. My recommendation is to do the Option 4 only if the visibility is good, otherwise the detour might be not worth it. Once finished with the loop, I hiked over the Argentinian border and slept inside Refugio Diablo at km34.4. It is in good shape overall. Just the fireplace might not run well (i have not tried) as the chimney is broken. The refugio has two elevated platforms for sleeping (easily fits 4-8 people), a table and stools, and a dry toilet nearby. If staying there, I recommend to take water from a stream flowing into the lake Diablo before reaching the refugio. There is no quick water access from the building - one must go down to one of the lakes.

From Refugio Diablo it took me about 5 hours to reach the argentinian police checkpoint at Lago Desierto. The part is relatively straightforward, again a bit swampy in my case. At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp. Maybe the policeman was simply curious and even if I told him where I came from he would be eventually fine with that. I didn’t want to take my chances though.

* '''2023-Jan-10 / 2 days / Helen and Craig'''

>Lago Desertio ferry cost about 50 dollars (we didn't take it)

>O'Higgins ferry cost 60 dollars and they give you a lift to V O'Higgins at the other end

>We took the lake side trail. Beautifull veiws over Fitzroy range. Campsite at the border crossing is exposed but harbours some of the best campside veiws. 2nd best camp of GPT for us (but would be unpleasant in high winds)

Border crossing was very easy with no proplems or searches either side. Had to take shorter route due to higher winds coming in and the O'Higgins ferry not due to run for the next week after. Shorter variation was very easy trail markings. Easy to walk in 4-5 hours
Was sad to miss the extended route.

* '''2023-Feb-13 to 2023-Feb-17 / 5 days / RR / SOBO / also Option 2 to Glaciar O'Higgins / Véronica & Zach '''

Route: Candelario Mancilla - Río Bullicioso - Lago Chico - Mirador Glaciar O'Higgins - Glaciar Chico - Lago Diablo - AR Border Control

This may have been my favourite section of the GPT yet this year. After 4 days waiting in Villa Ohiggins for a calm ferry day, we waited at the Chilean carabineros post because the computer systems were down and it was lunchtime so everyone seemed to be on break. They asked everyone only occupations and marital status, nothing about our planned route. We were able to start walking only around 3 p.m. although we arrived at Candelario Mancilla around 1 p.m.

The trail that veers off the minor road was clearly marked and easy to follow. Tons of crowberries/murtillas up in the alpine. We camped before the pass at km 14.5 when the trail was still going through sheltered forests. Up on the pass the next day, it was very cold and exposed and windy, with some snow on the ground. The trees start appearing again much later, when you can see Lago O'Higgins again. The trail switchbacks down to the settler's house at km 23.5 (Estancia Ventisquero Chico) were overgrown and confusing, branching into many paths.

We wanted to take Option 2 in order to see Glaciar O'Higgins. This detour took us an extra day and a half. We crossed the narrow channel at km 25.1 in Zach's packraft quite easily, even though the wind was gusty from the south. There were virtually no waves and the water was flat. We met the settler Luis at km 25.3 (Estancia La Carmela), who was friendly and indicated the trail toward Glaciar O'Higgins. Both waypointed campsites on the west side of the peninsula are great and sheltered from the fierce west wind in the forest. The views of the lake and mountains and glaciers on this section of trail are beyond words beautiful.

The way up the pass at km 40.5 is straightforward despite the lack of trail. The descent into the next valley is steep and somewhat tiring, but not dangerous, down a mountainside covered with murtilla plants. We stopped at the orange refugio (km 47.3) late in the afternoon. It is in great condition. The only thing deteriorated is the missing battery from the solar system. Feels like an airplane fusilage with some loud resonance when the wind is strong. Perfect place to shelter from the wind.

We stayed mostly in the left side of the river as we traveled cross-country to the put-in at Lago Chico. The packrafting back to the east shore of the lake was wavy and windy, the wind coming strong off Glaciar Chico (southerly), requiring a hearty ferry crossing in front of the hanging ice. From the put-in, the island (which appears on sattelite but not maps) looks like a peninsula, but if you paddle into what looks like a cove, you'll see the gap. We went around south of the island, then rode the wind northward to the takeout in a small cove.

The refuge {38} [52.9+0.3/297] was clipped closed with two padlocks as chain links. Someone left clothes hanging and a plastic chest full of food which mice seem to have enjoyed. The floor was literally covered in mouse poop. Seemed hanta-ed. 👻 The climb back up to the regular hiking route was long but pleasant, and mostly cross-country across rock slabs and brushy fields.

Back on the regular route, Refugio Diablo on the Argentine side of the border has a wooden table and platforms that could sleep four. When we got to the Argentine border control with a three-day-old Chilean exit stamp, the friendly border agent gave us our entry stamp without question. When asked about the wind on Lago Del Desierto, he walked Zach to the Gendarmeria boat captain who gave useful advice.

* '''2023-Jan / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

The exit on the Chilean side worked without any problems and the officials did not ask about our route.

No one was at home at the Estancia Ventisquiero Chico settler. We spent the night a little further away by the stream.

The hike along Lago Chico was nice and easy. We made a detour via option 4. It is worth going almost to the end to the viewpoint at 1104 m a.s.l. The view of the glacier and the ice field was unique and one of the best viewpoints on the whole GPT.

The next day we went to the Argentine border authorities. The officials were relaxed and since we wanted to spend the night there anyway, we agreed to do the stamp the next day.

The exit stamp, which was 4 days old in the meantime, was no problem at all...

* '''2022-Dec-09 / half a day / SOBO / Frank'''

The first 12KM of the direct route from Candelario Mansilla is on a road. There is a guy with a jeep who meets the ferry & may offer to take luggage or even passengers along the road. At the pass a trail continues down to the Argentine border post.

I continued around Laguna del Desierto the same day.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan / NOBO / Alexis y Iris'''

Took 4 days between the two stamps without issues. The Chilean carabineros just asked our route and we said we hiked through Refugio Diablo.

To ressuply in Candilla Mancilla, it is possible to ask Maria Louisa at the camping. There are more items than you could imagine but it's a bit expensive.

Of note, it is possible to arrange a transfer directly to Bahia Pescado on the same boat that goes to Villa O'Higgins to hike the GPT37H, just ask the captain directly.

The fare for a complete transfer is 60k CLP or 70 USD. We don't know the price for a drop off in Bahia Pescado.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2019-Dec-12 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the 2 borders.

So we prefered not to take risks with customs of Chile and Argentina and walked directly from Mancilla (chilean border) to punta Norte (argentinien border). There is 21km to walk and it is very easy.

After the argentinian border, we walked to the mirador on the glaciar chico. It is the last 15kms of the real section 38. The view on the glaciar is amazing there and really worth the effort. After just walked back to the argentinian border. The walk is easy with some elevation but easy. We took a path that was marked but differed a little with the gps track (maybe sometimes 300m away) and had only one easy riverford.

Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border. This refugio is very basic in metal and can help in case of rain but is not cosy at all.

It is a total of 51kms and without any risk with the 2 borders but you maybe miss some other highlights of the real section 38.

We did it in 1 day and a half.

Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / 1 day / Regular hiking route / NOBO / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe '''

We chose to do this hike in one long day, but were told we could camp near the Argentinian passport control, or in the sort of no-mans-land up the trail further between borders. Make sure you know what day the ferry is leaving before hiking or you could end up waiting in Candelaria a couple days! There aren't any stores in Candelaria, though we heard the lady at the campground might sell you some eggs or some other supplies.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / Jan Dudeck '''

The regular hiking and packrafting route passes the Chilean border control post in Candelario Mansilla and the Argentine border control post at the northern end of Lago el Desierto. These posts are 26 km apart (shortest distance) and if you do not walk into these two border controls posts yourself you will not get the required exit and entry stamp and become an “illegal immigrant” in the neighboring country. Don’t expect anything at the border itself or to get stopped by the police in the corresponding places.

Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).

We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.

Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

*'''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18'''

Notes to consider before beginning: At Calendario Mancilla, there is a Carabineros border control outpost. They asked that we fill out an expedition hiking form since the GPT follows a little used route. After discussing the route, the Carabineros informed us that entering Argentina at Lago Diablo, which is the current GPS route, is illegal. There is an alternate route, as described below, which remains in Chile that we decided to take instead.

From the Chilean border control, follow the gravel road for a short distance and turn onto a trail marked by white sign with green lettering that says “Rio Obsticulos” as shown by the current GPS track (hikers may want to consider following the alternate listed at the end of this section description to and from Glacier O’Higgins because that trail is of much higher quality, more scenic, and more pleasant than the one that follows the bank of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin).

After crossing the wooden bridge, hike along an ill-defined track that winds up and down the shoreline of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin to the land bridge north of Lago Chico. There is one residence as well as the occasional small camp spot along this route.

There is another residence located on the east side of the land bridge, and hikers may pass through a wire gate on north side of the corral. A faint trail heads west and terminates at the bank of the narrow channel that connects Lago O’Higgins/San Martin and Lago Chico. A packraft is required to cross this channel.

There is another residence on the west side of the channel. When the large ferry out of Villa O’Higgins is functional, it drops people off near this residence so they may hike the Sendero a Candelario Mancilla which is marked with orange and white blazes. This trail is well-formed and climbs the hill south of the residence. After exiting the treeline, be aware that there is limited camping for many kilometers. From this point, the route is very exposed and there is no cover until the route re-crosses Lago Chico.

Glacier O’Higgins is beautiful; it is composed of glistening blue ice that terminates into the lake. Sadly, as the University of Valdevía has documented, the glacier is receding at an alarming rate and is in danger. As you enjoy the views, the trail continues to wind up and down above the lake but eventually disappears. Navigation is easy due to a lack of vegetation, but camping is poor due to exposure and the steep terrain.

An orange refugio is located 2 km from Lago Chico on the glacial moraine. It is equipped with solar panels and is a good place to ride out a storm. The route continues down rocks and sand to the lake edge. The lake paddle is very pleasant, and depending on the season, it may involve weaving through icebergs to get to open water. Be careful not to get too close to the icebergs! Many of them are unstable and falling ice is common.

Alternate:
The GPS route indicates a northbound float on Lago Chico for approximately 4 km until take-out, but high winds forced us off of the lake early. We exited at the southern end of Lago Chico and from there faced a very difficult, brushy, and steep climb up to a trail at about elevation 750 m. Weather permitting, it may be easier to packraft all the way back to the land bridge between Lago Chico and Lago O’Higgins/San Martin. The trail on east side of the lake is well-formed, however, and there is one established campsite near a run down shack at the Lago Diablo turn off.

In order to avoid the illegal Lago Diablo crossing into Argentina, just after passing a large wooden sign that says “Sendero de Chile,” turn off to the east on a well-formed track and climb up through the forest. The track is well-formed, easy to follow, and passes by several good places to camp. There are some orange and white blazes which are hard to spot because they mark the track in the opposite direction. There is a brief cross-country section over the pass through open tundra, but the trail reappears as the route renters the trees. There are a couple river crossing, and the trail ends at the gravel road. Follow the road north back to the Carabineros outpost to inform them you made it back safely and to obtain an exit stamp.

==Season 2016/17==

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

* 2023 December / Anh

Warning between exit & entry:
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will actually go looking for you.

*Permit for Gpt38
For glaciers Chico and O'Higgins you can apply for an "Expedition Paper" at the Chilean border control. However, this does not allow you to cross the border to Argentina.
At the argentinian border control, you can ask for the route Lago del Desierto - Lago Diablo (with return / no border crossing).
Conclusion: there is currently no standard procedure for GPT38 with border crossing. The two border controls check by radio whether all persons arrive on the other side within one day (and start search operations if necessary)!

*2023 / Ondrej
At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp.

*2019 / Jan Dudeck
Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).
We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.
Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

*Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

*2019 / Arnaud et Adriane

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the border.(...) Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT38 - Glaciar Chico]]

=Images=

GPT38 (Glaciar Chico)

2024-12-06T16:19:53Z

Gasparpas78: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

*21-11-2024 to 25-11-2024 / 4 days / NOBO / RR / Sophie and Gaspar

After skirting Lago del Desierto with stunning views of Glacier Huemul, we crossed the border, passing an Argentine checkpoint at the lake's end and a Chilean checkpoint at Candelario Mancilla. There’s no other legal option but to go directly from one checkpoint to the other! In Candelario Mancilla, we were warmly hosted at the only available campsite by Don Ricardo and Doña María Luisa (you can purchase some basic provisions if needed, like tortillas, eggs, etc.).

We decided to circle the peninsula to reach La Carmela, located at Ventisquero Chico, where Don Lucho and his son David live. To do so, you must first check back in with the Carabineros and inform them of your planned itinerary. They’ll take your photo, ask about your gear and food supply to ensure you’re well-equipped (apparently, rescues are not uncommon). We were the first this season to take the trail around the peninsula, and it’s virtually impossible without a GPS, as the path is often overgrown with bush and misleading animal tracks. It took us 11.5 hours to cover just 35 km—but the views of the lake and the peninsula Florida across it are spectacular!

At Ventisquero Chico, to cross, you need to arrive before 7:00 a.m. or after 7:00 p.m. to be ferried across in their boat ($20/person).

Once at La Carmela, the route becomes easier—4 hours to reach the viewpoint of O’Higgins Glacier and another 4 to return, following relatively straightforward paths. On our way back to Candelario Mancilla, we took the trail over the pass, which posed no major difficulties apart from a 50-meter section of bush at the start of the ascent.

'''Note: the section was significantly redone around October 2023, so references to trails codes below are probably wrong.'''
[Tomáš]: Previously, the route initially followed the MR that goes to the Argentinian border before taking what is now RH-TL-V {38} [20.2/57.1+15.2] and RH-TL-V {38} [21.8/27.2+9.3], before crossing into Argentina over the pass near Refugio Diablo and then the option now called 39-01 that follows down along Rio Diablo to the Argentinian border control. See Anh's story below on how he was searched for when he took this alternative. However, later Tomáš alone and Juliette and Martin together managed to follow the original regular route without major issues. It seems it is still ok if you stamp your passport one day at the Chilian border control and the next day at the Argentinian ones, but more datapoints are needed.

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-Mar-30 to 2024-Apr-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 1 + 2 + 3 / Joscha '''

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-23.5] + OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6]

After km 6.5 there is plenty of water. You have to do a few, easy fords before the Pass. At km 12.6 I stayed in the northern side of the Rio Bullicioso and rejoyned the RR st km 13.9. Therefore I avoided 2 Fords. The RR around the Pass was covered in a thin layer of snow. -48.902884, -72.929411 offers a nice view on Lago O'Higgins. I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Its possible to camp on the shore there a little north of the trail, but without wind protection. Therefore I went back to the Settler at 23.5 and camped there. You have to hang your food, there are lots of mice here.

Day 2: RR [23.5-33.4] + OH38-03 [0.0-4.3]

I left my Tent at km 23.5 and hiked to the Glacier Chico Viewpoint and back. Plenty of water along this trail. I liked the views of glacier Chico on the first kilometer of OH38-03 more than those at the viewpoint. But the view of Lago Chico was pretty dope from the viewpoint. Trail was relatively easy to follow.

Day 3: OH37P-16 [14.0-15.6] + OH38-2 [25.7-3.1]

I hiked on OH37P-16 to the strait of Lago O'Higgins and tried to get the attention of Don Lucho on the other side. But it didn't work. Therefore I went back on OH38-02. I did not follow precisely the gpx track, because there are lots of trails. It worked out quite well. I only once came to close to the cliff coast and had to scramble up a little bit. I rejoyned the gpx track at around km 9.5. At 9.5 there is a flat meadow north of the trail for camping. I camped next to the abondend settler building at km 3.1. There was lots of water all allong the trail.

Day 4: OH38-2 [3.1-0.0] + RR [0.0-6.5] + OH38-01

I forgot to get the Certificado de Salvoconducto to leave Chile in advance. The border police let me use their wifi to apply for it. I had to wait about 90 minutes until I got the Certificado and than the exit stamp. There is plenty of water on the OH38-01. I camped right next to the argentinian border controll station. It is a really nice spot.

* '''2024 Ma 18 to 19/ 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin '''

Day 1 : Candelario Mancilla (Poste frontière) - -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandonned : NOT ABANDONNED

The ferry between villa O higgings and Candelario Mancilla (Chilean border crossing) costs 55,000 pesos per person and runs Monday/Thursday/Saturday from villa O higgings from 7am (subject to bad weather).

Arrival at Chilean border crossing at 11:30 am. We ask if it's possible to stop halfway and pitch the tent before the Argentinian border post. Apparently there's no problem if we camp after the border with Argentina, but the Chilean police advise us to arrive at the Argentinian border today anyway. We choose to do the RR, since apparently the police won't come and get us if we don't reach the border that evening.

There's snow quite early on at the first pass. Our feet are wet for the whole section. Before the pass, navigation is not too difficult, even if the path is full of water. After the pass, and before arriving at the puesto (which is not abandoned by the way), the paths no longer seem to be in use and the vegetation completely obscures the path. We arrive late at the camp. The puesto is by no means abandoned, but there's no possibility of sheltering in it, as it's locked with a padlock and belongs to someone.

WARNING: We pitch our tent in the rain next to the abandoned puesto. Bad idea. Mice attack at night. Apparently they love oats. A bag of oats (zip-lock bag) inside the tent is nibbled (and the wall of the tent too). The only solution seems to be to hang them up.

Day 2: -48.91420, -72.96117 (Estancia ventsisquiro Chico, abandoned: NOT ABANDONED - gendarmaria national argentina

A long day. Sometimes we can see the glaciar Chico, but there are clouds in the sky. The route is difficult to follow during the day and there's a lot of snow at the pass (at least 20 cm on the ground (plus water underneath sometimes). We didn’t have time to dry ourlselves during the night, so thé section appeard us as really cold. The refuge at Lake El Diablo is a real lifesaver under the snow. It allowed us to eat sheltered from the wind. We could sleep in it, but we weren't sure whether we'd be able to build a fire inside. We decide to finish the section during the day to get the stamp to enter Argentina later that day. The Argentinian border post closes at 8pm. Fortunately, we arrive a few minutes early. No worries with our exit stamp, which was dated yesterday, and we don't give it a second thought. Don't expect anything from the gendarmerie post: after spending two days in the rain, snow and wet feet, we thought we could ask them to let us sleep somewhere dry. They categorically refused, and we couldn't even pitch our tent under a garage or any of the small shelters they owned. We're a little frustrated with their inhospitality, while it’s raining for deux days and their seem to have enough places inside. But it's clear that's not why they're here, so we can't really blame them.

We recommend doing the trek in three days instead, as the path is difficult to follow, sometimes overgrown and in the water most of the time. Stop at the el diablo refuge to cut the second day into two. No need to worry about border stamps, apparently.

* '''2024-Mar-05 to Mar-07 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Hiking to Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins (RP km23.5 to 35.6) + Opt02 / Matthias'''

The route: (Villa O`Higgins -) Candelario Mancilla – RR to Peninsula/Estancia Ventisquiero Chico - Mirador al Glaciar O`Higgins - back to Ventisquiero Chico – Opt02 to Candelario Mancilla

I enjoyed the remote detour to the viewpoint of Glaciar O'Higgins and the icefield a lot! You have to be lucky to reach Don Luis for the short boat transfer from the peninsula (see below).

Day1 - RR

Arrived with the ferry around 9:00 am at Candelario Mancilla. At the border officials I had to fill in an “expedition” formular for my hiking specifying my route. They clearly pointed out I have to return before leaving to Argentina. I wanted to leave a bag there with stuff I didn`t need and asked them to radio to Don Luis for the boat transfer the next morning, but they denied both of my wishes. Hiking on the road on RR I was passed by Don Tito who is/was doing the taxi for the other tourists of the boat to the border. I could leave the bag with him :-), so continuing with lighter backpack.
Like written here before, the trail leading to the pensinsula (formed by the old terminal moraine) is marked partially and easy to follow until it reaches previously (>10 a) burned area when going downhill, then it is not clear and there is also partially bushbashing.
Camped for two nights behind the estancia among cherry and apple trees with ripe fruits! First night very windy and it was difficult to built up the tent, though at first sight the place seemed a bit wind-protected.

Day 2 - daytrip to the viewpoint of Glaciar O`Higgins

Stunning views, VERY windy. The path is named 38RP as well as 37RP-option16! At the end of the península you have to cross the lake/river. It is too deep to ford, so one needs the help of Don Luis (he introduced himself with that name and also the border official used Luis and not the nickname Lucho). The farmer lives on the other side but from inside his house he has no view to the river. I was lucky this morning was not very windy anymore, so his dogs were alarmed by my shoutings and also lucky that Don Luis was still at home and not off with his horse.
The path up to the next pass is again easy to find and sometimes marked. After that I partially followed the GPT track, partially other trails.

Day 3 – option 02 back to Candelario Mancilla:

I never used my GPS that constantly before on the GPT like on this trail. There is some bushbashing, overall the trail is okay. But there are very many other animal trails of same or better quality as an option… From Caleta Esmeralda onwards the trail is clear and easy. Stayed at the house of Don Tito (next to the campsite which is run by his brother Ricardo).

Side plot:
The first morning my gas cooker (MSR windburner) stopped working (and it still does not work). Probably because the jet is blocked. Changed to gas cooker with this GPT trip, before I was using gasoline cooker for years… They come with a filament to clean, for the gas cooker I could not find such a fine wire until now.

* '''24-Mar-02 to 2024-Mar-03 / 26 hours / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tomáš'''

I arrived at port at around 9:40. I set off immediately to border control and so was the first, which ensured a speedy processing. However, I was given a stamp with date of the previous day, which I did not check. The carabiniero did not ask nor told me anything and I reciprocated.

I wanted to do the RR, figuring I would probably be able to do it in roughly 24 hours. Jan said we have 48 hours and I did not read Anh's report until midway, so I thought it would be fine. It was a very cold and superwindy morning walking up into snowy mountains, very pretty. There is a trail shortcut in the first zigzag of the MR. No further shortcuts found, one trail that looked promising turned into BB mid-way. After an hour, I turned off from the road. There used to be a bridge over Rio Obstaculo, but now it is an easy if freezing ford. The trail is initially marked with metal plates, but that soon stops. It feels like it used to be official but has since beem abandoned? However, the trail is mostly easy to follow. Once above the treeline, the wind was vicious. The valley was also quite marshy (after the rain?), I could not keep my shoes dry. Valley is faster going than the coastal traverse.

Going down to the lake to the landbridge I kept loosing the trail and ended up CCing the last 200 vertical meters to the left of the trail. From the landbridge, the trail is marked with big red circles and is probably occasionaly used by tourists brought by ferry. The moutains were unfortunately semi-clouded but the views were still splendid. No worthy sidetrip for me then though. I reached Refugio Diabolo at 34.4 at 2130 and it was occupied (the only people on the trail apart from the road) and asleep, so I slept nearby in a tent. In the morning they told me I should have gone in.

I started going down at 7:30 the next day (being a night owl, that is quite early for me). The first three km, I kept losing the trail, but it then improved. It is actually marked exactly like Huella Andina! I arrived at border control around eleven. Nobody seemed to be looking for me. The carabiniero noticed I had a date in my passport from two days ago. I tried explaining that it was a mistake of the Chilian side (I think - the date was wrong by one day), but I was almost ordered to walk back for a new stamp. In the end I softened him, showing him a picture from the port from the previous day. It was tense ten minutes. Seems to me the checking of people who crossed happens at least after noon? The regular route is perfectly doable by most people in 36 hours I think, so you might be fine as long as you arrive (at most in late afternoon) with no more than yesterday's stamp. It needs more datapoints I think. I would have preferred to be slower though.

* '''2024-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-25 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Andrew'''

In the morning I said goodbye to Nicole and Miseal, and took the ferry from Bahia Pescado to Candelario Mancela. Stamped out on the Chilean side, then started hiking. Dirt road until the border, then a nice trail through the woods to the Argentinian customs at the north end of Lago Desierto. Camped (free) at the north end of Lago Desierto, then hiked to the south end. Caught a bus to El Chalten at the south of the lake, at the time it was 13.000 pesos and you can pay with card at the kiosk near the south campground. It also seemed easy to hitchhike.

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-23 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Trail condition : gravel road and nice trail easy to follow in the forest
- Water : easy to find
- Camping spot : a camping in Candelario Mancela, a free camping just in front of the lake at the Argentinian border, a camping on the other side of the lake
- Weather : sunny
- Resupply : we left a bag of food in Villa O'Higgins at the ferry company and so had our ressuply back in Candelaria Mancela / at the end of the section in El chalten there is a little little 'shop' on the other side of the lake with crackers, cookies and some instant dishes, you can pay by card
- Overall : easy section, some nice views on the Fitzroy

* '''2024-Feb- 01 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days/hiking/ SOBO/38-01/Paulina'''

I wanted to do section 38, it seems complicated due to boarder crossing rules, but I don't think it's impossible, I did not do it more because very bad weather forecast for 2 next days.
Anyway, I met some people who tried to go from Lago Desierto to Paso Diabolo but they had to abondon their plan because of the very high level of the river to cross.

Day 1

A very easy walk mostly on a gravel road. Very nice campground ( free) at Lago Desierto

Day 2
Nice walk along Lago Desierto. No difficulties, nice path all the time. Once I reached the other siide of the Lago I hitch-hiked directly to El Chaiten ( very easy on this road)

* '''2023-Jan-6 / 7 day / Hiking + Packrafting / SOBO / RR + Option 2 + Option 1/ Tom Pieper'''

Not much to add to the previous posts. Stunning route. A packraft is indeed really useful here as Don Lucho was not around when I crossed the river at his farm the first time. I waited two days for wind to calm down at perfectly wind protected camp {38} [32.1/744] (which I found superior to the other nearby campspot) but strong gale did not allowed me to pass beyond Viewpoint {38} [35.6/874]. Absolut impossible in that conditions. So I returned on the 3 day. I asked Don Lucho if he can notify carabinieros via radio that I will be delayed, which worked. I toked option 2 to return to Candelario Manzillo. Track is not the best from time to time. Stay close to GPT route as off trail might take much more longer. Good camp spots at the two abandoned settlers places and a really beautiful one at a turquoise river at S 48° 50.470’ W 072° 51.272’. There is no water after Port {38-02} [7.1/270] (Bahia Esmeralda) including second abandoned settler place. You might consider climbing down to the lake here to get water. Got my exit stamp at candelario manzillo and toked expensive transit (30,000$) by car to the border (option 1)

* '''From 2024-01-01 to 2023-01-03 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 + OPT2 // Quentin Clavel'''

Same story as previous contributions here, the customs officers (who were very nice by the way) said it was impossible to do the RR as I will be in illegal situation.
If it would be only the illegality stuff, it wouldn't have been a problem, but the thing is that rhet communicate with the Chilean side, and if you're not on the other side after one day they engage research, what I absolutely want to avoid, that people have to commit material, technical or human resources simply for or because of me.

It means if you want to explore glaciar chico or around :
Going NOBO : you first have to go straight from ARG border to CH border, stamp your passport and then go explore the area.
Going SOBO : explaining your expedition to the border but don't stamp your passport. Do your exploration, then come back to the CH border, stamp your passport and then go straight to ARG border.

So from ARG border, I've been straight to the Chilean side. Then I said them that I wanted to explore the area near glaciar Chico. The carabineros agreed, but before letting me go, I had to fill a form to describe my expedition, my emergencies contacts, the number of days I planned to go, numbers of days of food I had, and took me in picture. I was surprised about the picture but he said to me that it was just in case of disappearance to be able to publish a wanted notice. Perfect aha !

Anyway, I backtracked until the junction tu "La península" then engage myself on this nice track. Had to cross 3 easy rivers, and have been scratched numerous times by the bush which took over at the end of the trail, which was not easy to follow by the way.

The views on Lago O'Higgins were absolutely outstanding ! Glaciar Chico was a bit faraway, but still nice to see as well!

I arrived to la peninsula and walked till the estencia la Carmelia, Trying to have the attention of the settler, at the estencia la Carmelia. But seems like that he was not there. So I had to backtrack and not go on the GPT37P option 16 to glaciar O'Higgins. Pretty disappointed about that, would have been amazing to have a packraft at this time.... Anyway.

I backtrack the peninsula, then took the option 2 (Lago Costa). That was a very good decision, the views are stunning (again more at the end, when you arrive near the border). But track is not easy to find at all. We must congratulate the wild animals who created an incredible labyrinth of trails up there !

The bridge announced as destroyed is the one 400m from the border, above Rio Obstaculo. I looked at its condition 3 days before when I was at the border, to find out if it was feasible. and it was, that's why I decided to take this route. And didn't regretted it.

* '''2024-Jan-02 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+option 1 / Stiina & Kris'''

We arrived early morning at Candelario Manzilla, had no issues at the border control (we had our Salvaconducto). We did ask - just in case - if we could do the loop hike but the officer said the only way to hike the RR is to not exit Chile, hike out towards the west and then backtrack to the Chilean border control. The 21 km hike to the Argentinian border was easy, except for all the touristas with the bicycles😂. When it started chucking rain down we decided to camp there. Rained hard all night but no wind. There is a toilet for turistas and behind it a covered shelter with tables and benches, which was nice during rain.

* '''GPT38 / Option 4 (Campo Hielo Sur: Glaciar Chico to Circo de los Altares and back) / 6 days Hiking on Glaciers with Mountain Guide / 2023-Dec-29 to 2024-Jan-03 / Meylin, Masha, Misha, Jan'''

We planned this guided tour onto the Southern Patagonian Icefield several months in advance. We arranged this tour with the mountain guide Leo Muñoz (leoskatan@hotmail.com, WhatsApp +56 9 6904 9561) who knows the Northern and the Southern Patagonian Icefield very well and who lives with his family next to Glacier O’Higgins on the shore of Lago O’Higgins about 70 boat kilometers from Villa O’Higgins.

We agreed in November 2023 to make an attempt somewhen in the first half of January of 2024 as soon as the weather forecast promises a decent weather window. On December 25 Leo suggested to start on December 29 as wind and precipitation forecast predicted 6 decent days.

Day 1: We met in the afternoon at Lago Chico (where Lago Chico drains into Lago O’Higgins), continued by boat on Lago Chico to an island that is partially covered by Glacier Chico, pulled the boat up into a safe location and started right on Glacier Chico. We reached in the evening the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). Starting right on the glacier avoided an otherwise demanding river crossing.

Day 2: In a long day we reached the third refuge (Refugio Garcia Soto). We walked mostly on Glacier Chico but in areas where this glacier is steep and with deep cracks we left the glacier and walked in rocky terrain. In this terrain is also the second refuge (Refugio Piedra Roja) where we stopped for lunch.

Day 3: In a demanding day we walked over the icefield to Circo los Altares. The wet snow covered all cracks of the icefield but made walking tiresome. For safety reasons we walked the entire distance roped together (2 groups of 3 persons linked together). We camped one night at Circo los Altares and enjoyed a good view of Cerro Torres in the evening and morning.

Day 4: In a similar tiresome day we returned to Refugio Garcia Soto. We arrived around 2 pm in afternoon what permitted a good rest. This refuge offers ample space and is a good place to wait a day or two if the weather makes this necessary.

Day 5: We returned to the first refuge (Refugio Pantoja). If necessary we might have returned to the boat on the sane day but the good weather forecast for the next day made such an effort unnecessary.

Day 6: On a short morning we returned on glacier Chico to the boat, packed our gear into the boat and travelled by boat to our guides home (Rio Condor). On the way we stopped briefly at a settlers home (La Carmela) to purchase a lamb for a Patagonian asado al palo.

Conclusions:

1. Leaving the exact start date open was perfect as it permitted our guide to choose a descent weather window.

2. In case of a shorter weather window a shorter route could have been chosen (in example to Refuigo Garcia Soto only.

3. This was our first experience walking on glaciers but this was perfectly feasible with our experienced guide.

4. Boat safety regulations on Lago O’Higgins required our mountain guide to do the boat trip with a second person that has motor boat license. Therefore a second guide accompanied us. This added safety but also cost.

5. Returning with the mountain guide to his home at Rio Condor before continuing by packraft is an experience on its own and lift the entire trip to a higher level.

6. We send some of the required equipment in advance to our mountain guide but he would have been able to equip up to 6 persons with his gear.

* '''Copied from Jan's Facebook post December 2023: "GPT38: Border Crossing: Candelario Mancilla (CL) - Lago El Desierto (AR)'''

We now learned that both border controls speak to each other and exchange how many persons crossed the border and are meant to arrive on the other side. If a person does not arrive within 2 days a search is initiated. Therefore it is not any more possible to hike the longer more scenic route between collecting the exit and entry stamps of both countries.

Therefore all hikers must take the direct route (see image red line) and visit the more scenic parts around Lago Chico and Peninsula La Carmela either before exiting Chile or after collecting the Chilean entry stamp.

Alternatively you might openly explain your plans and try to get an official approval but this seams quite unlikely."

* '''2023-Dec-20 to 2023-Dec-20 / 1 day/ NOBO / Lago del desierto - Candelario Mancilla/ Option 1/ Alex & Christophe'''

Since you have to collect your exit and entry stamp on the same day, we took the fastest way between the two border controls. Once we finished with the formalities on the chilean side, one boat for Villa O'Higgins was waiting for us. I think we got lucky.

If you want to go to glaciar chico, you have to go to Candelario Mancilla and then, go and back to the glacier, all on the chilean side. Passo del diablo is a forbidden pass to cross the border between Argentina and Chile.

* '''2023-12-10 to 13 Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days / NOBO / Hiking from Candelario Mansilla to Don Lucho peninsula and back'''

This was an enjoyable hike with good views! When we came from Argentina, it rained a lot, and was very muddy. We stayed at the campsite at Candelario Mansilla for one night and went Westbound on the regular route, crossing the river shortly after the beginning of the trail at km7. After the substantial rainfall, it was almost waist deep, but crossable with caution. The pass towards the abandoned settler home at km23.5 was quite muddy again, and in the last bit of the descent, the trail was overgrown and required attention to not lose. We camped outside the hut. The next day we went on part of Option 37P-16 as a day trip. We headed to the river (outflow of Lago Chico) and waited for the settler Don Lucho to notice us and to ferry us to the other side using his boat. This worked finally, after waiting for almost 3h. We did a nice trip up to the pass and followed one of the many horse trails to some mountain lakes and viewpoints. We let Don Lucho ferry us back to camp and headed back the next day. After two days of dry weather, the previously problematic river was now easily passable, with water at knee level.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. We carried a lot of food with us from Argentina: enough for 38, 37 and to be able to spend a few days in Candelario Mansilla in case the ferry is delayed due to bad weather. We decided against road walking with heavy packs, and arranged for Ricardo (WhatsApp +56 9 9126 7007), who runs the campground at Candelario Mansilla, to pick us up from the border by car. Ricardo is a very nice guy, and we stayed in his hostel after registering at the border checkpoint. The hostel was 15.000 CLP per person, the pickup from the border 20.000 for two people and the drop-off at the junction (X {38-01} at km0) 10.000 for two people. In high season he might not have time or charge more. Don Lucho asked for 10.000 for the return trip for the two of us.
I believe that Ricardo puts you in the first-come-first-served queue for the ferry from Candelario Mansilla when you first arrive there -- but I'm not even sure if there is even an official queue (in our case, the ferry was not full, so it didn't matter). When Ricardo drove us to the junction, he also made us register our hiking plans with border guards. The guards wanted to see that we are sufficiently prepared. We showed them our GPS and inReach, but they were most wow-ed by the locus maps app with the GPT track files and kept asking where they could get such a detailed map of the area ;-).
For the logistics regarding section 37, see our trip report on [[GPT37H|that wiki page]].

* '''2023 Ahn, Warning between exit & entry:'''
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will really go looking for you.

* '''2023-12-04 Anh / 3 days / NOBO / RR + OH-TL-V + RP-TL-V'''
Day 1: After the exit stamp from the Argentinian border control in Lago del Desierto, I turned left to RR to Lago Diablo. The path is sometimes hard to find and with my heavy backpack I couldn‘t hike fast. I had to cross the stream twice without shoes. But it was no problem (knee-deep, good weather). After Lago Diablo I turned left via OH-TL-V to Glacier Chico. I did not find the camp {38-03} [1.8/878].

Day 2: Back to RH-TL-V towards the connecting channel to Glaciar O'Higgins. The trail was a little easier to find, but not better to walk because hardly anyone had walked it in recent years.
Settler {38} [23.5/261] in the intersection is no longer inhabited, but the owner has a sign in front of the house. He allows free camping on his property and possibly even overnight stays in the house (with kitchen).
But I go on to Settler {38} [25.3/268] to cross the connecting channel by boat.

It was already 5:00PM and I just wanted to set up my tent & enjoy the evening quietly. At that moment, a motorboat with 3 men with backpacks arrived. They were not tourists, but border guards (carabineros). They were not pleasant at first. I understood from their Spanish that they were looking for me and that I was not allowed to be here. For the first time on this trip, I was lucky that I couldn't speak any Spanish and they couldn't speak any English. Otherwise they would be angry!

I was able to explain with place names that I was not a criminal but a hiker. They had a long discussion in the house and in the end they said that I didn't have to come to the border station right now, but that they would come with me to Glaciar O'Higgins immediately!
After a long day from Glaciar Chico, I didn't want to hike 7km up with 600Hm, but I had no other choice. So we started at 6:00 PM, the settler owner went ahead and the 3 young border guards climbed the mountain with full energy ahead, me behind. It was good that I don't usually run at my limit and still had a day's reserve at that moment. The 3 carabineros asked me from time to time how I was doing and whether I needed help -> very nice.

After 4km, the settler owner explained that it would soon be dark and he had to go back. He showed the Carabineros the way back on the (somewhat outdated) paper map. The Carabineros have the best modern equipment (GoreTex, expedition tent...) but no GPS navigation device and don't know the way. With my GPS navigation device, we became a team and had a lot of fun all the way to camp.
The atmosphere around the campfire was much more relaxed. It turned out that they had taken a lot of food with them to look for me, but had left it behind in the settler. So of course I had cooked for them, it was really delicious and after a hike it was even better than usual. The 3 Carabineros said they had never eaten so well. We enjoyed the sunset at Glaciar O'Higgins together and laughed into the night.

Day 3: At 7:00 AM, just like the military, we continued on RP-TL-V towards the pass. It was great fun with my 3 new friends and the views with the best weather were simply magnificent. However, 2km before the pass, my Carabineros wanted to go back because they now consider the hike to be strenuous and with respect. It's a pity but they are in charge despite their new friendship! I'm still very happy that they found me, it was an unforgettable experience! We were able to help each other, they are 3 cool and very very helpful Carabinos.
RP-TL-V is easy for GPT hikers, much easier than the other two sections.

Back to the settler they had called the patrol boat by radio and we went to Candelario Mancilla with the very modern and super stable HiTech boat. I got my entry stamps and was even invited to dinner at the border control station. After that I ended up in Villa O'Higgins.
It was a bit of a shame to break off GPT38 like that, but I will never forget the best moments and the 3 new Carabineros friends. I'm starting to love GPT now!!!

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Apr-19 to 2023-Apr-21 / 3 days / RR / SOBO / Martin & Helena'''

Beautiful section! The detour to Glaciar Chico is definitely worth it, and so is the viewpoint.

On the first day, starting around 8 AM, we passed the border control without any problem, and followed the trail in quite good pace to the pass. It was very windy there in our case, but there are places to hide. The trail is pretty clear all the time. This changes during the descent down to the peninsula, where you need to look carefully at the navigation as the path divides into different directions. Marked camp on the peninsula looked like a good place to stay, but we decided to do some more and continued for about 4 km. We camped in the forest, where we were able to find a few spots almost without wind, but in more extreme conditions it might be harder to find a 100% safe place.

On the next day we continued and left our backpacks in the forest to go check the viewpoint. It took us a little over 3 hrs + some time for the photos etc. The trail is very easy to follow and except of the beginning and end its not even that windy. If the weather is not the best or you don’t have time, we would recommend to do at least first few hundred meters of the optional trail to get better view of the glacier and floating icebergs. Back on the RR we made a little less than half of the way to the border control and again camped in the forest.

The last day was all about forest walking. First views of the Fitz Roy on the way to the border control. There, the officer noticed the old stamp and asked where we stayed, but was probably just curious and had no problem with our honest answer about doing the detour and camping in the forest.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-Mar-20 to 2023-Mar-22 / SOBO / RR + option 4 / Villa O'Higgins - Lago del Desierto / Anna & Christopher'''

Amazing section, one of our favourites so far!

In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

We started with seven days worth of food, because we planned to go to El Chaltén without a resupply (GPT 38+39 with all options).
The weather was great on our first day and after we got through the border control we started walking around 11:15 a.m.
The trail is in a pretty good condition. Your feet will get wet though. With the nice weather and the good trail we camped at km 21 in the forest close to the stream.

Then the trail becomes gradually a bit worse and we had to do some BB and CC along the lake. At the junction with option 4 we left our packs and went to the mirador. We had good weather and the view from up there is amazing. We highly recommend doing it, if the weather is good. Then we went back down again and camped in the forest at the junction. There is a stream close by to fetch water.

The trail becomes super good again once you reach the settler at Lago del Desierto. The border control was fast and the staff was really friendly. We continued along the lake. At some point it started to rain, so we camped next to a stream at approx. km 4.6. At km 4.3 there would have been a more rain and wind protected camp.

The next day we had a great view of Fitz Roy in the morning sun. We arrived at the other side around 10 a.m. There is no bus leaving around this hour, opposite of what the gendarm at the border told us. All the buses/cars leave in the afternoon around 4 p.m.
We made a break at the restaurant and enjoyed a warming mate tea before we continued to section 39.

* '''2023-Mar-16 to 2023-Mar-20 / 4 days / SOBO / RR + option 5 / Louis & Rémi'''

We started at Candelario Mansilla and we wanted to go in front of the Glaciar O'Higgins following the lake with option 5 and then option 2. Option 5 is really worth it, views all along the lake are incredible, I highly recommend it. We slept near the Settler @km 17.8, nobody was there.

The next day we tried to cross this water canal between Lago O'Higgins and Lago Chico, but it is unfordable, you have to yell for the settler who lives on the other side. We did, we saw him, but he didnt come... So we slept next to the settler @km 23.5 on RR and we tried the 3rd day too but still nobody to help us to cross. Well, I think this settler isnt reliable if you wanna do option 2 without a packraft.

So we continued our way to Argentina, sleeping @km 31.4 (the puesto is more than abandonned, it is destroyed but it is flat and there is no wind).

This portion provide a nice view of the Glaciar Chico.

Next we went directly to the Argentinian border and we didn't have any problem to get the stamp on our passports. We slept there, it is free, there is nobody and the view of the Fitz Roy above the Lago del Desierto is definitely worth it !

* '''2023-Mar-04 to 2023-Mar-07 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR + Option 4 / Candelario Mansilla - Lago Desierto / Ondrej'''

I wasn’t lucky with the weather so this section turned out into rainy, muddy and snowy feat for me. It felt remote and adventurous. If I could choose I would do at least the second day in a good weather to enjoy the views.

On the first day, I got dropped of by the boat at Candelario Marcilla around 10am. Getting the stamp from Chilean carabineros took longer than expected, around one hour. A number of hikers accumulated there and the carabineros said that we have wait for them to upload our names to the system(?). Then they just asked for my occupation and gave me the exit stamp. I then hiked the stretch on the main road, forded Rio Obstaculo right after (the deepest ford on the section I would say, it was easy even after a day of rain) and then over the pass. At the pass you will come into a long flat valley which in my case started turning into a big muddy/swampy plain. It also started snowing. The falling wet snow and the soaky trails pushed the hike to the boundaries of my comfort limits (but still manageable). I camped at the Settler waypoint (km23.5). According to a person running a hostel in villa o higgins, the Settler’s place has been abandonded for a while now (presumably someone other bought the land) and both locals and international hikers are now using the garden of the settler’s house to camp. The area around the house features thick tall trees that provide a good shelter from wind and rain, some open sheds with a good roof (but all looked uncomfortable for sleeping) and a dry toilet. The house itself is locked with a padlock and cannot be used by visitors. I stayed in a tree covered area next to the house for two nights as the next day was raining all day. Foxes, various birds and wild cows kept me a company.

From the settler, it is a relatively easy trail up to the crossroad at km33.4. The trail is ocassionaly overgrown and muddy but nothing dramatic. Nice views over the lake Chico and the glacier. I was impressed by a floating iceberg that made its way slowly across the lake. I had my lunch at the crossroad (km33.4) and decided to leave my backpack there and hike/jog to the glaciar viewpoint (Option 4). It took me about 2:10 hours there and back to the crossroad. I jogged parts of it. The weather got bad during the loop (clouds and rain/snow) so I unfortnunately saw nothing but a bit more of the Glaciar Chico once reaching the viewpoint. All distant peaks were obscured in clouds. My recommendation is to do the Option 4 only if the visibility is good, otherwise the detour might be not worth it. Once finished with the loop, I hiked over the Argentinian border and slept inside Refugio Diablo at km34.4. It is in good shape overall. Just the fireplace might not run well (i have not tried) as the chimney is broken. The refugio has two elevated platforms for sleeping (easily fits 4-8 people), a table and stools, and a dry toilet nearby. If staying there, I recommend to take water from a stream flowing into the lake Diablo before reaching the refugio. There is no quick water access from the building - one must go down to one of the lakes.

From Refugio Diablo it took me about 5 hours to reach the argentinian police checkpoint at Lago Desierto. The part is relatively straightforward, again a bit swampy in my case. At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp. Maybe the policeman was simply curious and even if I told him where I came from he would be eventually fine with that. I didn’t want to take my chances though.

* '''2023-Jan-10 / 2 days / Helen and Craig'''

>Lago Desertio ferry cost about 50 dollars (we didn't take it)

>O'Higgins ferry cost 60 dollars and they give you a lift to V O'Higgins at the other end

>We took the lake side trail. Beautifull veiws over Fitzroy range. Campsite at the border crossing is exposed but harbours some of the best campside veiws. 2nd best camp of GPT for us (but would be unpleasant in high winds)

Border crossing was very easy with no proplems or searches either side. Had to take shorter route due to higher winds coming in and the O'Higgins ferry not due to run for the next week after. Shorter variation was very easy trail markings. Easy to walk in 4-5 hours
Was sad to miss the extended route.

* '''2023-Feb-13 to 2023-Feb-17 / 5 days / RR / SOBO / also Option 2 to Glaciar O'Higgins / Véronica & Zach '''

Route: Candelario Mancilla - Río Bullicioso - Lago Chico - Mirador Glaciar O'Higgins - Glaciar Chico - Lago Diablo - AR Border Control

This may have been my favourite section of the GPT yet this year. After 4 days waiting in Villa Ohiggins for a calm ferry day, we waited at the Chilean carabineros post because the computer systems were down and it was lunchtime so everyone seemed to be on break. They asked everyone only occupations and marital status, nothing about our planned route. We were able to start walking only around 3 p.m. although we arrived at Candelario Mancilla around 1 p.m.

The trail that veers off the minor road was clearly marked and easy to follow. Tons of crowberries/murtillas up in the alpine. We camped before the pass at km 14.5 when the trail was still going through sheltered forests. Up on the pass the next day, it was very cold and exposed and windy, with some snow on the ground. The trees start appearing again much later, when you can see Lago O'Higgins again. The trail switchbacks down to the settler's house at km 23.5 (Estancia Ventisquero Chico) were overgrown and confusing, branching into many paths.

We wanted to take Option 2 in order to see Glaciar O'Higgins. This detour took us an extra day and a half. We crossed the narrow channel at km 25.1 in Zach's packraft quite easily, even though the wind was gusty from the south. There were virtually no waves and the water was flat. We met the settler Luis at km 25.3 (Estancia La Carmela), who was friendly and indicated the trail toward Glaciar O'Higgins. Both waypointed campsites on the west side of the peninsula are great and sheltered from the fierce west wind in the forest. The views of the lake and mountains and glaciers on this section of trail are beyond words beautiful.

The way up the pass at km 40.5 is straightforward despite the lack of trail. The descent into the next valley is steep and somewhat tiring, but not dangerous, down a mountainside covered with murtilla plants. We stopped at the orange refugio (km 47.3) late in the afternoon. It is in great condition. The only thing deteriorated is the missing battery from the solar system. Feels like an airplane fusilage with some loud resonance when the wind is strong. Perfect place to shelter from the wind.

We stayed mostly in the left side of the river as we traveled cross-country to the put-in at Lago Chico. The packrafting back to the east shore of the lake was wavy and windy, the wind coming strong off Glaciar Chico (southerly), requiring a hearty ferry crossing in front of the hanging ice. From the put-in, the island (which appears on sattelite but not maps) looks like a peninsula, but if you paddle into what looks like a cove, you'll see the gap. We went around south of the island, then rode the wind northward to the takeout in a small cove.

The refuge {38} [52.9+0.3/297] was clipped closed with two padlocks as chain links. Someone left clothes hanging and a plastic chest full of food which mice seem to have enjoyed. The floor was literally covered in mouse poop. Seemed hanta-ed. 👻 The climb back up to the regular hiking route was long but pleasant, and mostly cross-country across rock slabs and brushy fields.

Back on the regular route, Refugio Diablo on the Argentine side of the border has a wooden table and platforms that could sleep four. When we got to the Argentine border control with a three-day-old Chilean exit stamp, the friendly border agent gave us our entry stamp without question. When asked about the wind on Lago Del Desierto, he walked Zach to the Gendarmeria boat captain who gave useful advice.

* '''2023-Jan / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

The exit on the Chilean side worked without any problems and the officials did not ask about our route.

No one was at home at the Estancia Ventisquiero Chico settler. We spent the night a little further away by the stream.

The hike along Lago Chico was nice and easy. We made a detour via option 4. It is worth going almost to the end to the viewpoint at 1104 m a.s.l. The view of the glacier and the ice field was unique and one of the best viewpoints on the whole GPT.

The next day we went to the Argentine border authorities. The officials were relaxed and since we wanted to spend the night there anyway, we agreed to do the stamp the next day.

The exit stamp, which was 4 days old in the meantime, was no problem at all...

* '''2022-Dec-09 / half a day / SOBO / Frank'''

The first 12KM of the direct route from Candelario Mansilla is on a road. There is a guy with a jeep who meets the ferry & may offer to take luggage or even passengers along the road. At the pass a trail continues down to the Argentine border post.

I continued around Laguna del Desierto the same day.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan / NOBO / Alexis y Iris'''

Took 4 days between the two stamps without issues. The Chilean carabineros just asked our route and we said we hiked through Refugio Diablo.

To ressuply in Candilla Mancilla, it is possible to ask Maria Louisa at the camping. There are more items than you could imagine but it's a bit expensive.

Of note, it is possible to arrange a transfer directly to Bahia Pescado on the same boat that goes to Villa O'Higgins to hike the GPT37H, just ask the captain directly.

The fare for a complete transfer is 60k CLP or 70 USD. We don't know the price for a drop off in Bahia Pescado.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2019-Dec-12 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane'''

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the 2 borders.

So we prefered not to take risks with customs of Chile and Argentina and walked directly from Mancilla (chilean border) to punta Norte (argentinien border). There is 21km to walk and it is very easy.

After the argentinian border, we walked to the mirador on the glaciar chico. It is the last 15kms of the real section 38. The view on the glaciar is amazing there and really worth the effort. After just walked back to the argentinian border. The walk is easy with some elevation but easy. We took a path that was marked but differed a little with the gps track (maybe sometimes 300m away) and had only one easy riverford.

Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border. This refugio is very basic in metal and can help in case of rain but is not cosy at all.

It is a total of 51kms and without any risk with the 2 borders but you maybe miss some other highlights of the real section 38.

We did it in 1 day and a half.

Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / 1 day / Regular hiking route / NOBO / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe '''

We chose to do this hike in one long day, but were told we could camp near the Argentinian passport control, or in the sort of no-mans-land up the trail further between borders. Make sure you know what day the ferry is leaving before hiking or you could end up waiting in Candelaria a couple days! There aren't any stores in Candelaria, though we heard the lady at the campground might sell you some eggs or some other supplies.

* '''2019-Nov-10 / Jan Dudeck '''

The regular hiking and packrafting route passes the Chilean border control post in Candelario Mansilla and the Argentine border control post at the northern end of Lago el Desierto. These posts are 26 km apart (shortest distance) and if you do not walk into these two border controls posts yourself you will not get the required exit and entry stamp and become an “illegal immigrant” in the neighboring country. Don’t expect anything at the border itself or to get stopped by the police in the corresponding places.

Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).

We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.

Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

*'''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18'''

Notes to consider before beginning: At Calendario Mancilla, there is a Carabineros border control outpost. They asked that we fill out an expedition hiking form since the GPT follows a little used route. After discussing the route, the Carabineros informed us that entering Argentina at Lago Diablo, which is the current GPS route, is illegal. There is an alternate route, as described below, which remains in Chile that we decided to take instead.

From the Chilean border control, follow the gravel road for a short distance and turn onto a trail marked by white sign with green lettering that says “Rio Obsticulos” as shown by the current GPS track (hikers may want to consider following the alternate listed at the end of this section description to and from Glacier O’Higgins because that trail is of much higher quality, more scenic, and more pleasant than the one that follows the bank of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin).

After crossing the wooden bridge, hike along an ill-defined track that winds up and down the shoreline of Lago O’Higgins/San Martin to the land bridge north of Lago Chico. There is one residence as well as the occasional small camp spot along this route.

There is another residence located on the east side of the land bridge, and hikers may pass through a wire gate on north side of the corral. A faint trail heads west and terminates at the bank of the narrow channel that connects Lago O’Higgins/San Martin and Lago Chico. A packraft is required to cross this channel.

There is another residence on the west side of the channel. When the large ferry out of Villa O’Higgins is functional, it drops people off near this residence so they may hike the Sendero a Candelario Mancilla which is marked with orange and white blazes. This trail is well-formed and climbs the hill south of the residence. After exiting the treeline, be aware that there is limited camping for many kilometers. From this point, the route is very exposed and there is no cover until the route re-crosses Lago Chico.

Glacier O’Higgins is beautiful; it is composed of glistening blue ice that terminates into the lake. Sadly, as the University of Valdevía has documented, the glacier is receding at an alarming rate and is in danger. As you enjoy the views, the trail continues to wind up and down above the lake but eventually disappears. Navigation is easy due to a lack of vegetation, but camping is poor due to exposure and the steep terrain.

An orange refugio is located 2 km from Lago Chico on the glacial moraine. It is equipped with solar panels and is a good place to ride out a storm. The route continues down rocks and sand to the lake edge. The lake paddle is very pleasant, and depending on the season, it may involve weaving through icebergs to get to open water. Be careful not to get too close to the icebergs! Many of them are unstable and falling ice is common.

Alternate:
The GPS route indicates a northbound float on Lago Chico for approximately 4 km until take-out, but high winds forced us off of the lake early. We exited at the southern end of Lago Chico and from there faced a very difficult, brushy, and steep climb up to a trail at about elevation 750 m. Weather permitting, it may be easier to packraft all the way back to the land bridge between Lago Chico and Lago O’Higgins/San Martin. The trail on east side of the lake is well-formed, however, and there is one established campsite near a run down shack at the Lago Diablo turn off.

In order to avoid the illegal Lago Diablo crossing into Argentina, just after passing a large wooden sign that says “Sendero de Chile,” turn off to the east on a well-formed track and climb up through the forest. The track is well-formed, easy to follow, and passes by several good places to camp. There are some orange and white blazes which are hard to spot because they mark the track in the opposite direction. There is a brief cross-country section over the pass through open tundra, but the trail reappears as the route renters the trees. There are a couple river crossing, and the trail ends at the gravel road. Follow the road north back to the Carabineros outpost to inform them you made it back safely and to obtain an exit stamp.

==Season 2016/17==

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
In march and april the ferry that crosses Lago O'Higgins only leaves twice a week, which is mondays and thursdays at 8 a.m. (company Las Ruedas, reservation possible via whatsapp +56 966278836).

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

* 2023 December / Anh

Warning between exit & entry:
You have to reach the other border control within one day, since recently both border controls compare the data every day.
If you do not arrive within one day, they (both border controls) will actually go looking for you.

*Permit for Gpt38
For glaciers Chico and O'Higgins you can apply for an "Expedition Paper" at the Chilean border control. However, this does not allow you to cross the border to Argentina.
At the argentinian border control, you can ask for the route Lago del Desierto - Lago Diablo (with return / no border crossing).
Conclusion: there is currently no standard procedure for GPT38 with border crossing. The two border controls check by radio whether all persons arrive on the other side within one day (and start search operations if necessary)!

*2023 / Ondrej
At he Argentinian police checkpoint I was actually asked why I had a three day old stamp. I wanted to avoid problems, so I said that I took a slow pace and did not walk on some days because it was raining constantly (which was true). I said that I built my tent, read a book and trying to wait out the rain. This (in a hindsight really poor) excuse was fortunately enough for the officer. He nodded and gave me the stamp.

*2019 / Jan Dudeck
Be aware that the GPT route takes a significant detour between these border controls and crosses the actual border at an non-officil location at the Refugio el Diabolo. If you ask the border police for permission to cross the border in this location than your request will probably be denied so better don’t ask and just tell that you are on the way to the Chile/Argentina without specifying the exact route (when asking for your exit stamp).
We have taken this non-official route twice in January 2017 and January 2019 without any issue.
Worst case scenario is that you arrive with a several days old exit stamp on the other side and the border control police becomes upset and ask you to walk back on the shortest route (Option 1) to get a fresh stamp but I have not heard this happening in recent years.

*Comment Jan Dudeck: In recent years we and other hikers had no issues staying several days between the Chilean and Argentine border post. Some years ago the situation was different but both sides seams more relaxed now as long as you arrive on the other side with an exit stamp.

*2019 / Arnaud et Adriane

According to the team of our hotel in Villa O'Higgins, we officially have 24h to cross the border.(...) Don't say to the argentinian customs that you were there because the mirador is officially in chile (200m after the border but without any puesto) just say that you walked to the refugio del Diablo which is on the path and 200m before the border.

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT38 - Glaciar Chico]]

=Images=

GPT36H (Ruta De Los Pioneros)

2024-12-06T16:07:16Z

Gasparpas78: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):


<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

==Season 2024/25==

*27-11-2024 to 02-12-2024 / 6 days / NOBO / RR / Sophie and Gaspar

We departed from Villa O’Higgins, where we stayed at the Los Pioneros campground, run by the very kind Pachi (highly recommended). Heading north, we followed the unpaved road for about a day and a half before joining the actual Pioneers’ Route.

This trail is navigable 70% of the time, but vegetation has overgrown about 30% of the path (locals mentioned we were likely the first to pass through this year, which might explain the conditions). Locals also mentioned the possibility of crossing Lakes Christie and Alegre by boat. Since we intended to hike, we didn’t inquire further, but for those interested, this option exists. Only one permanent settler remains at Lake Christie: Don Rubén. We passed by his cabin, but unfortunately, he had already left for work that day, so we didn’t get the chance to meet him. On the third day, we reached the La Pampa settler site, where we camped in preparation for an early crossing of the Río Bravo.

Crossing the Río Bravo at its source posed no issues for us, as this year’s snowmelt is delayed, keeping river levels low. We chose the OR route to ford the river only once. Although this path was slightly more challenging, it was worth it to avoid wet feet in the low temperatures.

At Paso Picota, we encountered some snow, but it didn’t impede our progress. On the descent, however, the RR crossing of the first river was not passable, likely due to a landslide upstream. As a result, we followed the OR route, which runs higher and presented no problems. From there, we continued our journey to Cochrane without major difficulties.

* '''2024-Nov-06 / 3.5 hours (1 day including return) / GPT36H Option 22 Sendero Los Gatos / SOBO / Jan Dudeck'''

This route is particularly useful for packrafters with a smaller open packraft that wish to travel GPT35 and GPT36H southbound. By only packrafting the more wind protected eastern section of Lago Cochrane the infamous windy “La Leona” sector of Lago Cochrane is avoided.

Resupply can be arranged by hitchhiking or taking the subsidized bus 35 km back to Cochrane after paddling Lago Brown and Rio Tranquilo (this is part of the Regular Packrafting Route of GPT36H before reaching the trail head of Ruta de los Pioneros). This reduces travel time for packrafters and keeps the water proportion up.

Route Description:

Halfway between the Chilean Border Control of Pasa Roballo and the southern terminus of the Los Aviles Track (“Casa de Piedra”) is the “Camping Alto Valle”. This perfectly maintained camp ground offers about 8 shelters. The campground is situated 500 m away from the main road on a minor gravel road. This 6 km short gravel road continues towards Lago Cochrane. From this minor road start two trails: Sendero Los Gatos that leads all the way to Lago Cochrane and Sendero Lago Chico.

Sendero Los Gatos can be used by packrafters to access Lago Cochrane in a somewhat wind sheltered sector next to Isla Victor. The track of Sendero Los Gatos is not part of the GPT track files 2024 but the trail head is signposted and route is mostly well visible.

When visiting the beach I could see a few spots where a tent can be pitched for a night but I did not spot a really nice sheltered location where waiting two or three days would be delight (if the wind forecast makes it unlikely). So packrafters best descent to the lake on the day before attempting to cross Lago Cochrane.

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024-Apr-02 to 2024-Apr-07 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR - {36H-G} - RR - {36H-D} - RR / Lilian'''

A beautiful section, especially from km83.9(Puesto La Pampa) to km66.5(multiple crossing), nice views with remote area, i love it so much!

Because of late season, all the river crossing are super easy, only 4 place need to wet feet, all others can go around or rock hopping. Some of trail go in the water(lake, pond, pool) directly, but all you can go around by side trail, some CC or light BB.

Snow still not a problem, snow start at 950m at south, and covered some of the trail above 1100m but didn't matter, i go around most of the snow easily. And didn't find any knee deep snow(maybe melted again), the deepest posthole just above ankle, easy walking. Because of lot of cairns at the area of two pass, so it is easy for navigation although some parts of trail is covered by snow.

The most annoying is WIND. It is crazy windy almost everywhere except last day. The most windy part is at the second pass, i even can't open my eyes to look at the trail and walk on it straighly because of crazy freezing wind. (Be careful of hypothermia, crazy windy + rain/snow/after river crossing is horrible)

My friend give me a 2hour ride from Villa O' Higgins to Lago Christie( X[142.0/550] ) , so i save about 50km road walking, a huge thank you to him!

Km138.5 : shelter(-48.16236, -72.41397) made by woods, can cowboy inside when summer time, not rainproof but can be some wind protection. Can fit 2 tents outside with fire ring, some small stream flowing good with clear water just beside it. Weather protection by forest and the shelter.

Km135.35 : old refuge(-48.14246, -72.43808), half of the roofs is collapsed, but still can provide some protection for emergency. Nice grassland for camping beside the refuge, can fit 3-5 tents with fire pit and rock seats, not much protection by trees or bushes. A river flowing good beside it, trail crossing it with wet feet, half of calf. It is the first wet feet point for me.

Km134.1 : a lake, i cleared out a spot and camped here, some animals go to this lake and walking in it when midnight. It is very quiet and i heard the sound clearly. Not much protection, just some bushes here, not recommended with bad weather.

Settler[132.8/525] : from here to Refuge[126.1/512], trail becomes very easy to follow and walk, it is a frequency used trail. Look like some people living here, but i met noone when i passed.

Km129.3 : shelter(-48.11808, -72.48252) with just one side, weather protection by forest, can fit 1 tent here. A small stream flowing beside it.

Refuge[126.1/512] : refuge(Puesto Entrelagos) already gone just left some woods here, and like Natalie said looks like someone wants to rebuild it. Some flat spots here can fit 2-3 tents.

Lake[198.8/489] : Lago Alegre, a boat and a camping spot here, can fit 1 tent with fire ring and nice lake views but no protection, it is crazy windy when i was here.

Km119.3 : junction of RR and {36H-G}, i go straight and didn't go to Settler[118.9/486](El Caleuche). It is easy to follow and walk on {36H-G}, but you need to climb over a 2m wooden fence at north.

{36H-G} km3 : river crossing, cross it on a huge log easily.

RR Km117.2 : flat spot(-48.02468, -72.49029) can fit 1-2 tents with weather protection by forest. A small stream flowing beside it.

Km117 : river crossing, several logs crossing selection here, because raining and wet, so i crossed by the combination of multiple logs, it looks like more stability and safe. Huge flat area and grassland can fit many tents at both side of the river, weather protection by trees and bushes.

Camp[110.9/500] : can fit 2-3 tents with lake views, easy to collect water, weather protection by trees.

Then i did the short cut that Natalie said, from here walk through the open forest NW to the other valley(Río Bravo). It is completely CC or light BB on some animal path, fun and doable, but just recommend on good weather, otherwise you'll soaking wet by bushes.

Río Bravo is a grey water river, better collect water from some small stream.

Km104.3 : a small stream(-47.97355, -72.55419) flowing good with clear water, small flat spot can fit 1 tent after crossing.

Km103.95 : camping spot(-47.97095, -72.55524) can fit 3-4 tents with fire ring.

Puesto[98.4/553] : Puesto Las Tablas, huge and beautiful grassland for camping, refuge is a small cabin, have a wooden bed, bench, fire pit and some dry wood sticks (for burning) inside, it is possible to sleep inside with a warm fire night, good wind protection but not for rain. Didn't see any water nearby.

Km95.05 : cross a stream with a small waterfall, it'll be completely wet by the waterfall if cross at trail, so I climb to upstream and rock hopping for dry feet.

Puesto[92.3/660] : Puesto El Burro, large grassland but most of them are steep, only small grassland beside the refuge is flat for camping, can fit 2-3 tents with table and fire ring, refuge is a tiny cabin but half of roof is already collapsed, can fit 1 small single person tent for some protection if bad weather, a small stream flowing with clear water 200m before here. Very windy when i was here.

Km85.4 : easy and beautiful walk start!

Puesto[83.9/820] : Puesto La Pampa, large grassland for camping, refuge is a small, nice and clean cabin, have 2 wooden bed, wooden seats, table and fire pit inside, it is a nice place to sleep inside with a warm fire night, good wind protection but not sure for rain. Just like Natalie said you also can pitch a small tent inside. Tiny stream flowing low just in front of the refuge. Have a open toilet with views at here too.

Fords start/end[81.3/854] : rock hopping.

Then i take {36H-D} instead of RR, save 2 times of wet feet crossing of Río Bravo, it is doable and sometimes have an animal path(old trail?) to follow, but easy to lost the path, and overgrown at some part you need to BB, I'm not sure it can save time or not, and only recommend in good weather, otherwise you'll be completely soaking wet by bushes.

Ford[78.6/888] : river crossing of Río Bravo, the second wet feet point. I crossed it at 50m downstream(-47.79880, -72.52101) where the river breaks to 2 parts by island. First part easy rock hopping, second part is just above ankle, the water is grey so i didn't see through the bottom, otherwise I'll throw some rocks for hopping to keep my feet dry.

Ford[77.4/981] : i follow some cairns and crossed it much downstream with rock hopping. It is a beautiful viewpoint for waterfall and the glacier at west! Snow starts here.

Ford[75.4/1023] : easy rock hopping, look at the rocks underwatee here, the west side of valley is white colour, the east side is red, amazing!

Border,pass[73.9/1225] : snow here, but still not problem, go around them easily, or just above ankle posthole. A beautiful lake looks like good for camping 200m before here, but just for good weather because very exposed.

Km72.9 : between two pass, before the second pass you need to go in a wide riverbed, but snow covered the water. You know there is water flowing, you can hear them flowing, but you can't see them. And the snow(bridge) is not thick, not stable enough to walk on them directly, so it take me some time to find out which part is water, which part can walk on it.

Ford[71.8/1262] : snow covered most of the river, and river flowing a little wide here(can't step over), take me some time to find the way to go on it.

Border,pass[71.5/1304] : crazy crazy crazy windy, beautiful views but too windy that i can't open my eyes to look. It is the first time for NOBO to see Cerro Los Mellizos(black sharp tower mountain) at here. Mostly you can arrive there after 1 day. North of here lot of snow but still doable and navigation with lot of cairns easily.

Camp[68.4/1089] : can fit 2-3 tents with log seats and fire ring, some(not much) weather protection by trees and bushes. Stream flowing nearby. Then i continues RR.

Km68.1 : flat area(-47.72665, -72.49681) can fit many tents with amazing glacier views, but no protection. Stream flowing here, also old fire pit beside a tree. Still lot of snow here.

Water[67.3/1041] : snow end and i didn't see any water here. I took RR for going down, it is actually a trail, easy to follow. But some point is steep and a little landslide, walk easily when dry, but maybe a problem if wet or covered by snow.

Fords starts/end[66.7/867] : old camping spot with fire pit 100m before here, nice view but no protection. River breaks into many streams at here, I took about 20min total for putting rocks in streams separately for all the way dry wet crossing by rock hopping.

Km65.85 : shelter(-47.70890, -72.49466) with 1 side protection in good condition, nice for cowboy under it when summer. Flat spot can fit 2-3 tents with fire ring just beside it. Trail easy to miss it because covered by some trees.

From here to km53.2(road), HURDLE RACE start! At least 500 blowdowns you need to step over. No climbing, just step over, easy to walk and follow but muddy and blowdowns, you know that.

Km64.45 : camping spot(-47.69803, -72.49788) under trees, can fit many tents with fire pit and log seats, weather protection by forest.

Km64.05 : i cleared a flat spot(-47.69555, -72.50008) for a single person tent, with great lake, mountain views and i stayed here for 18 hours because of snowstorm, just beside the lake so it is easy to collect water. Weather protection by forest, but if the wind comes from south then nothing help. If you have 15min more, i think can fit one more single person tent here.

Km61.95 : junction of RR, {36H-A} and {36H-05}, easy to miss. Pay attention to wood cutting trace on ground.

Km58.45 : swamp area full of water, you can jump(a huge jump) over it for dry feet. After swamp is a river crossing by narrow log, after the crossing don't go away immediately, looks inside the river, lot of beautiful green water plants here!

Puesto[57.6/677](Calloqueo), Puesto Cayuqueo, refuge is locked, looks like no more people until next summer, because the gate nearby is completely locked by wire too. Beautiful grassland for camping at here, and a shelter with fire pit inside too. Easy to collect water because just beside Río Pedregoso, at here Río Pedregoso still a clear water river.

Fence[56.5/657] : it is a gate and completely locked by wire. Climb it at right side just wooden fence, at left side is barbed wire with fence. Huge exposed grassland with views in this area.

Ford[55.4/656] : third wet feet crossing, also is the deepest crossing at late season April. Looks like above knee at trail crossing, better go upstream 10m walk on the red rock bar, it is flowing very fast but just above half of calf, easy crossing. Flat area for camping at both side of river.

Ford[54.8/650] : crossing a grey water river, so better collect water before it joins main river. Trail crossing looks like up to half of calf, better crossing point at downstream just before 2 river combined, rock hopping there. But be careful for rock hopping, rocks not stable and rolling there, also a pool looks deep just at downstream, don't slide!

Km53.85 : nice flat spot(-47.62754, -72.46476) can fit 2 tents just beside the trail. Looks like camped by someone before.

Ford[53.7/630] : river breaks into 3 parts here, the first and third part is easy rock hopping. The second, main part above ankle at trail crossing, easy. It is the fourth, also the last wet feet crossing.

Puesto[53.1/611] : didn't see anyone when i passed here, but looks like still in using because lot of cooking equipment is outside the refuge. The refuge is not locked but I just take photos and didn't go inside. Can be emergency use for bad weather.

After here, all the way road walking.

Km49.25 : viewpoint(-47.59724, -72.49715) of Laguna Calluqueo, Glacier Calluqueo, Cerro Los Mellizos and Monte San Lorenzo o Cochrane. I camped here, with a 2m rock wall that covers the wind from south, also lot of things can hold my tent's line. A super beautiful spot with amazing sunrise coming up from the glacier!

The next morning i saw a bus coming to here, that i met it before outside Cochrane tourist information, so maybe possible to arrange a shuttle at Cochrane for SOBO?

Km48.5 : Glacier Calluqueo Camping Spot(-47.59382, -72.49962), i look it from high on road, looks like no views but covered by some trees with protection, can fit 2-4 tents with log seats.

Bridge[46.2/394] : Puente Calluqueo, camping spot after the crossing at downstream, can fit 1-3 tents with fire ring.

The next 2 Danger waypoint i didn't understand, it looks like very safe walking on the road?

After 10 minutes i hitched a car to Cochrane, this is the second car i saw in that day. They also take me to Lago Brown and followed {36H-23} to viewpoint(-47.46236, -72.38094) of Cerro San Lorenzo, huge huge huge thank you to them!

Lastly i stayed at Calafate Camping in Cochrane, 6k CLP for camping, good spot with nice refuge(kitchen), hot shower and clean toilet. You also can camping under some shelters if bad weather.

* '''2024-Mar-19 to 2024-Mar-23 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 24A + 02 + 04B / Joscha'''

Day 1: RR [5.5-50.0] + OH36H-24A to the Glacier and back

I got a hitch to the junction at km 5.5. From there I walked for about 2 hours until a car took me to the junction at km 33.9. There is a fence between Rio del Salto and the RR. At the Danger Waypoint (km 43.2) is the fence broken down and the river is accessible. I got a 3rd hitch from there to the Calluqueo Glaciar. I took OH36H-24A to the glacier. Its a good trail, but mostly through forrest without view. Around km 3.0 you can see the glacier + the lake. Its really nice. At the end of OH36H-24A you get a close-up look at the Glaciar. There is a lot of water between km 3.5 and 6. At km 4.1 is a decently flat spot for camping. I camped at km 49.7 next to the RR. I would not recommend the spot in a windy night.

Day 2: RR [50.0-79.9]

There was snow above 1000 meters. Around the Bourder/Pass Waypoints the snow was more than knee deep. It was possible to do it without any snowgear, but it took some time. There was plenty of water along the RR and all Fords were max. knee high.

Day 3: RR [79.9-107.3]

The RR crosses lots of small streams, so there is plenty of water. Puesto at km 83.9 can be used as shelter and has a open outhouse. I camped at km 107.3 on a flat meadow.

Day 4: OH36H-02 [0.0-26.6]

The first 2 km of OH36H-02 are more CC than a trail. After that the trail is easy to follow and in good condition for about 5-6 km. Than the trail starts to become overgrown and later very muddy. Therefore it wasn't to much fun walking this trail. But the valley offers some nice waterfalls and snowy mountains. There was plenty of water and fords were easy.

Day 5: OH36H-02 [26.6-29.0] + OH36H-04B [122.5-132]

I hiked about 2 1/2 hours along the Carreterra Austral until a group of cars passed me and one of them took me to Villa O'Higgins.

* '''2024 Mar 6 to 2024 Mar 12 / 7 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Maddi and Tom'''

Day 1: Got the public bus from Villa O'Higgins to Lago Christie at 11am, paid 600 CLP per person. Apparently it comes every few days. We were the only ones on it so the driver dropped us at the trailhead. There is a big sign and a picnic table at the start and the trail is pretty clearly defined. Hiked along Lago Christie and camped at the Northern end at a clear spot on the sand.

Day 2: Kept following a clear track to Lago Alegre. Passed the settlers but noone appeared to be home. Had lunch on the lake at a nice pebbly beach (-48.03641,-72.49016), had a swim and Tom caught a rainbow trout to eat. Had a relaxed day hiking and camped at the very northern end of the lake (-47.98559,-72.53109). Tom caught another trout for dinner. Two others hiking joined us later that night as it was a good camp spot with lake access.

Day 3: Tom caught another trout for breakfast before we started hiking for the day. Rain started getting pretty heavy making the track quite muddy and it was very cold. Had lunch at Las Tablas to get out of the rain. Sun came out so we continued on, although it didn't last. Since it was raining heavily and I was getting very cold, we camped next to El Burro for the night.

Day 4: More rain in the morning. Packed up and hiked to La Pampa for lunch. Got a weather update and it was looking bad for the next day (heavy snow and wind) so we decided to camp at La Pampa. Spent a nice afternoon in the sun with a fire going. The two hikers we camped with before also stayed there that night.

Day 5: Woke up to heavy rain and wind so stayed in bed until 11am, not wanting to cross the pass in these conditions. Snow started around lunch and was heavy enough to stick. Got a weather update and it was looking sunny for the next day so decided to wait it out. Hiked up the river around 5pm to do the river crossing and then camped at the base of the pass at (-47.79854,-72.52191). Started snowing just as we went to bed.

Day 6: Got up early and started up the pass. Lots of snow and ice made it quite slippery but manageable. Had to watch out for the black ice on all the rocks around the river. The snow concealed any tracks but wasn't difficult to navigate with my watch. Snow was about knee deep at the top of the pass. Came down the other side with awesome views down the valley. Took the detour to avoid the river crossing above the canyon. Detour is steep uphill but is worth it as where we ended up crossing didn't even get our shoes wet. Did see a dead horse there though that must have been washed down the canyon. Had lunch near the fallen down puesto on the river. Was nice to get some sun after so many days of rain and snow. Continued on and camped at Glacier Calluqueo.

Day 7: Started walking along the road hoping for a hitch. Was actually very hot. Managed to get a ride after about an hour to Cochrane.

* '''2024-Feb-28 to Mar-03 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matthias'''

Took transport till end of road near glaciar Calluqueo (Jonathan +56940246832, 65000$) as I wanted to walk the pass before the predicted snowfall sets in. Traverse was quite tedious cause of the rainy and cold weather. Met Natalie and Luca halfway, hi :-) Did not meet anyone else during 4 1/2 days! Was accompanied by a smelling(!) dog (of Ruben?) from the camp at Lago Christie until next morning near Rubens house. He slept a bit windsheltered next to my tent - it was cold and a lot of wind! Keep in mind (I didn`t) that once you have reached Lago Alegre there are still 2000hm to go uphill before you reach the MR!

Campsites:
300m before Camp km68.4 on a +-exposed meadow with glaciar view,
in front of Puesto ElBurro (rainshelter inside and a table outside),
Camp km110.9,
on the shore of Lago Christie km 129 just before the path leads uphill in to the forest (a bit wind protection by bushes and Wood)

Did a shortcut between ca. km103.5 and km 100.5. Sometimes good trail, sometimes obstacle course over fallen trees.
Was very lucky with transport to Villa O`Higgins. Got a motorcycle ride all the way from the refugio at km148.6 at 6 pm with a short detour to the border at Rio Mayer. Stayed in Hostal Rio Mayer in Villa O`Higgins (very friendly and talkative, no internet).

28-Feb-24 to 03-Mar-24/4days/ Hiking/ NOBO/ RR/ Natalie & Luca

Took a few days off to reconnect with an old friend in Villa O'Higgins and then decided to take him for a test trial on the GPT.

With the help of Martin from Mosco we found out the day we left was the day the subsidized bus leaves from O'Higgins to Lago Christie. Left around 1130 and got to the TH ~13:00. The bus only goes 4x a month and it went twice in the last week of February, not sure how it is organized. Only 3500 each.

A little bit of rain the first day and a lot of rain/snow at the end. The trail was fun, mellow and in good shape, next to no mud. We met Ruben and all of his animals (cutest puppy atm). He offered a camping spot but I am sure the dogs would be all over you at night. We camped at the beginning of Allegra near Refugio entre lagos (NO refugio), -48.09404, -72.49798. At this moment there is no shelter but it looks like someone is working on one, there is a boat at the lake. There is a creek with only still puddles of water so we drank from the lake.
There are few nice camping spots along both Christie and Allegra that are not marked. Did not stop to fish :(. I heard Margarita is in O'Higgins atm.

We made a short cut to avoid the big intersection near Puesto 107. We cut off after camp 110 and ended ~800m near a river camp marked on osm. It was easy and mostly open forest, mainly just a quest to stay on the best animal track as there are a few of them. We basically followed close to where the hill is but not too close bcs that is where the bush is no good.

Camped outside Puesto 98.4, Las tablas. It had no water so fill up before of just go down to the river.

Met Matías - Hi Matías! Even though we were both trying to beat the rain I very much enjoyed the conversation/laughs!

When we got to Puesto 83.9, La Pampa, the rain just began to start and even though it was only lightly raining at the time the forecast was not good for the evening so we decided to stay and enjoy the early day and nice Refugio. The weather got increasingly worse and very strong overnight with snow in the morning. The Refugio is large and clean. It has a fire pit in the corner, an outhouse, extra blankets and tarps, a good table and lots of tools and pots if needed. No other puesto compared. There were only a few small leaks during the night, we pitched a tent inside for added warmth.

The next morning there was a lot of fresh snow and it was still snowing with strong wind at times - so the pass was interesting. We took variant D to avoid the Rio Bravo fords and got soaking wet in the bush, it wasnt very clear where the trail was, needed the GPS. Although the Rio Bravo was very calm and shallow (barely to my knees, 167), the snow made it too cold for my liking. If one is curious about camping on the other side of the river, I think you can make a camp, there are lots of flat spots but not so much wind protection. There were camping possibilities throughout the pass as well. As for the pass, "most" of the trail was not covered by snow bcs the water was flowing down the trail therefore navigation was still okay, a bit harder between passes. Of course the weather improved at camp 68.4...

I know Tomáš managed the La Picota river and it made me curious to try but it made no sense to go for it, the RR that follows the west is an easy trail and the fords afterwords were almost (all but one) jumpable. Sadly what I read about "la playa" is true, there was a dead horse (pieces of it) at the start of the fords, it seemed rather recent so I guess the La Picota ford still kills.
The Refugio after the fords is just a "lean-to". The trail afterwards is okay, starting to get muddy but not bad. A nice camp is possible at -47.66704, -72.50032 bcs of the beautiful view but there is no water, actually not many places to stop between ford and puesto 57.6. We Camped at Puesto 57.6 and met Antonio, super lovely man and we had breakfast with him the following morning. In return I gave him the rest of my walnuts and peanuts, hopefully that was enough. There is not much of a shelter there, teepee style, but you can camp under the trees by the river. His dogs are annoying, got into my food bag while we were talking and then never left us alone. Really nice camping just before his puesto in a big clover field.

Next day super quick walk out to the view point and then got a hitch down to Cochrane easily, lots of people on a cloudy Sunday afternoon.

* '''24-Feb-24 to 2024-Feb-27 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Variant B, Option 2 / Tomáš'''

Having parted ways with Natalie, who had other commitments, I was not able to get a taxi to end of road so I started walking and hitching at noon. Second car took me for about ten km, then I was passed by ten cars in an hour and then got a hitch to the viewpoint three km from end of the road with a guide going to guide a group to the glacier (they go there by boat!). Our car's engine failed 4 km before the destination, but after 5 minutes a passing car took us there. Mount Cochrane is impressive. I ate there and in an hour another two cars passed, one probably from the puesto further on. It was a Saturday, still vacation period and a beautiful day, it seems hitching is promising under such conditions there. The road is in a very good condition and easily scalable by a non 4x4 car.

The puesto at 53.1 had barking dogs and seems used (maybe a settler?), I did not see it though, it is in the trees. All fords were easy and shallow: definitely under knees. In the beginning there are multiple trails, RR probably has the best route. You cannot avoid fording, I tried. After about ten km, the trail stops being ambiguous. Took variant B (which is mostly a trail, not CC) and slept above the "dangerous ford" (would have been better to stay 500 m lower at the end of the flats). It indeed sounded and looked dangerous after such a hot day. In the morning, I realized the trail to the ford eroded and horses probably cannot go there anymore. A pedestrian still can. The ford was much calmer, very cold but under knees and not strong. I forded it six times unfortunately with bare feet - first to try, than with my backpack and then with my forgotten phone. It hurt even if it is just 5 metres. Going up from the ford, the trail goes to the left of a small stream on top of a small ridge, do not follow the stream as I did. The CC section thereafter is mostly a trail, only invisible on river flats and for about 20 metres in the pass. Going down from the pass, the trail is above the GPX for several hundred metres, going straight and not zigzagging. Rio Bravo was tame after dry weather and at the end of summer, so I took RR. The fords were easy, well under my knees. Puesto el Burro at 92.3 would be a nice place to camp. Utterly scaring a lonely large bull, I pushed to Puesto Tablas, which has a roof that protected me from drops of rain.

Puesto at 107.4 looked nice and standing, not sure if it was locked, by any means very nice place to camp. I did not notice the "bridge ?". The ford was mellow, wide but ankle deep. Option 1 at least to variant 01J is actually a used trail, the bridge on it is over a marsh, not sure why it is a waypoint. Decided to take option 2 thinking I would get an easier hitch on Carretera Austral and trusting others who did not like the lake part that much and hating mosquitoes. The first part to variant 01I is partly a cow trail, partly a BB through open forrest. Take 01J instead, should be a clear trail and the ford should be as easy as the one on RR. From there on, 8 km to an unmarked ford through a first creek marked on OSM (it originates from a lake on map, the trail is clear and looks used. 02A was overgrown after 100 clear meters, so do not take that (I did not see the other end of it either and I looked). From the ford, the condition of the trail worsens for 7ish km to camp at 16.4. It is partially overgrown, occasionally with thorns. There is still space for legs, but arms are needed to clear the way. This portion is also mostly over open tundra-like terrain above the river. It is a bit marshy but not much after dry days. The views are splendid! Somebody with a machete would have fun here. Took option 02B, which I think is the actual trail, but it is hard to tell as it goes through a marsh there. Overall the overgrown part is maybe 2-3 km. Puesto Chirola at 17.6 is actually an abandoned settler house, still locked but in heavy rain you could probably get in through a window, the roof is still mostly ok. I slept there, with dusk mosquitoes appeared.

It rained during the night and probably because of that, the trail got muddy. It is however being used and mostly clear and mostly easy to follow. Refuge without water is without water. It is meant for cyclists and is in good condition. It would sleep easily four people amd uneasily double that. It is always well ventilated with always open windows (rain should not get through), so probably no need to fear the mouse virus. The occasional tundra, wetness and continous rain with occasional glimpse of a glacier finally made me feel like I am in proper Patagonia. On the Carretera, there are not many cars. Started walking and hitching at three PM. As the road is divided by a ferry, cars pass you at (in high season) 2-hour bursts of at most 8 cars, as I was informed by the one passing cyclist. The first burst was just three cars and two motorcycles and they all passed me. It is actually a one lane compacted road where cars in opposite directions must avoid each other. No luck with second burst of three cars. Finally a second car from the third burst took me after 4 hours on the road. The second refugio around km 35 did not look as nice.

* '''2024-Feb-13 to 2024-Feb-18 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Yannick & Nolwenn & Tess & Lukas'''

- Trail condition : good condition, a lot of fallen trees that slows you down but not really bad / the trail was not muddy as we had good sunny days
- Water : lots of rivers and lagunas
- Camping spot : the refugio at km 126,1 has been destroyed by a tree so we camped closer to the lake amongst the trees // at km 148,6 The refugio is really nice, we could make a fire and have a great night before heading the next day to O'Higgins on the long gravel road
- Weather : sunny and a little bit of rain
- River crossing : easy, the river Bravo was not too high and not too strong so we didn't take the variant D
- Resupply : in Cochrane everything you need
- Overall : we were lucky to have an easy hitchike for the first 20km and for the last 7km // we also liked this section that offers really different landscapes and you feel really remote

* '''From 2024-01-06 to 2024-01-12 // 6,5 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT D // Quentin Clavel'''

After the small part in the forest, I followed the gravel road, which began to be nice from the Laguna la Clara. Some nice miradors along the roads, especially the last one, salto Rio Perez, which was pretty impressive !

Then you begin the track los Pioneros. Pretty easy to follow, a bit muddy, but I thought it would have been worse, the last sunny weeks made it dryer than expected.

From there, it's a sequence of up and down, with amazing views, on Lago Christie then on Lago Alegre, surrounded by mountains.

Some easy bushbashing which is more like cross country at the end of Lago Alegre to arrive along the Rio bravo.

The you go along the Rio bravo until cross it. I took the option D to avoid to cross it three times, it's bushbashing but pretty easy to follow as there's a kind of path which was created to go around the small cliffs, and have to cross rio bravo only once.

On the section, at this time, I haven't got any problem at all to pass the rivers who were pretty low and with weak current.

Then I arrived in the mountains and that was just amazing ! Even with an uncertain weather and lots of clouds !

I had an amazing bivy in front of the impressive calluqueo glacier then it was the looong Gravel road to Cochrane, but really scenic !

During all the section it was easy to find water as there's water everywhere ! Some nice camp spot too.

Mosquitoes and these spiky plants who stay scratched to your shoes and socks are the only annoying stuff.

Plenty of crowberry and Calafate on the track. Delicious and perfect snacks on the road !

Last but not least, if you've always dreamed to try hurdles in athletism, this section is for you ! You'll have to pass threw hundreds of fallen trees ! Enjoy !

* '''2024-Jan-01 to 2024-Jan-08 / 7.5 days / NOBO / Villa O'Higgins - Cochrane / RR and Option 36H-D / Alex & Christophe'''

We really enjoyed this section, especially the part of the pass, with awesome views on glaciers and mountains. We found the 2 lakes part nice but less impressive.

For us, the most difficult with this section was to walk with heavy backpacks and to deal with the hundreds of mosquitoes on the camps near the two lakes. We had the chance to have dry trails most of the time and it helped us a lot. If it rains a lot before you start this section, you will need more time because the trail can get muddy really fast.

After the first 9km in the forest, we tried to hitchhike from Villa O'Higgins to Lago Christie but we weren't lucky and couldn't find a car on a 1st of January. We only had a lift the second day for 15km by the carabineros. There is nearly no car passing on the X905 road so plan a day or two of extra food if you plan to hitchhike here. Taking a private transport to Lago Christie could also be a solution but it's expensive (about 70'000 CLP according to Martin from El Mosco in Villa O'Higgins).

There is not much to say about the 2 lake part, we found the trail easy to follow and some nice shelter along the route. Apparently, there is a lot of trout in Lago Alegre. We didn't try to fish since it was raining but we let a peanut butter jar with a spoon (hook) and some fishing line rolled around the jar in the puesto next to Settler {36H} [118.9/486] (Margarita Bustos). She's actually not living there but the puesto is open and a nice shelter to cook (we put the tent next to it).

For the second part with the pass, we found the trail also easy to follow. The OH-CC&BB-A {36H-D} didn't took us too long and saved us at least 2 river crossing. All the other fords were sometimes wide but easy to pass.

After 7 days, we tried to hitchhike on the X901 road near the Laguna Calluqueo and were really lucky. After only 4km, a car stopped and took us to X {36H} [5.5/267]. Maybe there is more traffic on this road than on the other side, especially with good weather during the holidays.

* '''2023-Dec-25 to 2023-Dec-29 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris'''

We arranged a ride to skip the first 50km of the roadwalk. The trail was surprisingly good and well-trodden throughout, i.e. visually easy to follow. Some muddy sections here and there and steeper climbs and descents. Plenty of water throughout.

The river crossings didn't pose any difficulties and we were blessed with good weather, despite one rainy night. The views were amazing - that so low down you could be face to face with glaciers!

We did not find the trail around lakes any harder than the rest of the section. A few times the route goes on the coast, i.e. you need to walk through the water, but it was not an issue. In two cases the route splits into two, the correct trail being the easier one to miss, so need to pay attention to nav. Met Ruben the settler, very nice and friendly guy. We also met 4 other GPT hikers on this section, which was a bit of a shock.

We walked 30km of the dirt road after Lago Christie until we finally got a hitch to Villa O'Higgins. Barely any traffic on the road, especially in the afternoon.

* '''2023-12-07 EXP-OH-TL-I 1day / Anh'''
There is a damaged and not yet reopened route from Villa O’Higgins to Glacier Mosco: EXP-OH-TL-I & EXP-OH-CC&TL-I
Together they are 24 km return and with a daypack it could work.
The EXP-OH-TL-I trail is very well maintained and relatively well marked. There is even a very nice Refugio Puesto Rivera + campsite for tents along the way. BUT from km 7 the trail is damaged by landslides and the section after that is overgrown. I tried the last km via BB through the forest. After that everything should be clear and only CC to the Mosco glacier. Unfortunately, I make very slow progress with BB, it simply takes too much time and with a temperature of 15°C the river crossing afterwards would be dangerous. Unfortunately I have to abort (safety first) & return.

* '''2023-12-10 / 4 days / RR + OH-TL-V / SOBO / Anh'''

A very experienced hiker/local in Villa O'Higgins advised me against NoBo due to high water levels in the next few days regarding river crossings.

Day 1: With a private transfer to Laguna Calluqueo I had to hike a few more kilometers to the end of Ruta X-901 because it is private land closed by a gate. The first two river crossings were a bit above knee and sometimes strong current. The trail after that in the forest is actually made for horses, there are a lot of obstacles like fallen trees, overgrown bush, swampy paths. It is particularly misleading when the RR and horse path separate because it is suddenly very strange without horse tracks. It has rained and with the snow melting, the paths and streams are almost indistinguishable. I make very slow progress through the obstacles.
The river crossing (Ford km 66.5) was long but in the evening without any problems (knee-deep). The path afterwards RR-CC-A to the camp was steep uphill, but more pleasant than in the forest. As you can see, this trail is only for hikers and it was very rarely used.

Day 2: It was CC up, across the border from Argentina & back into Chile. At this time there are still many snowfields to cross and therefore Ford (km 71.8) was under the snowfield, which made it very precarious for me. The river crossing Ford (km 77.4) was up to my hips with a strong current, but is not dangerous. Overall, I was much faster because there were hardly any obstacles (only Fords and completely swampy meadow).

Day 3: The way back from yesterday + 250m river crossing should be easy and pleasant like yesterday! But there was a strong headwind & snow = snow confusion. Then there was the fog and the infamous white-out. My footprints from yesterday were already filled with fresh snow, but still recognizable. I didn't have a long break, so I reached the day's destination very quickly.
Bored, I just carried on hiking and didn't find the way back in the forest from day 1 so bad. I got through all the obstacles surprisingly quickly with the following strategy:
- I had put on remedies on the way out, it had helped a lot. And I run like a horse, don't think twice, just jump over obstacles. The path is made for horses.
- The way back is from the top, the path is much easier to recognize.
- New strategy: just follow the horse tracks, even if I leave the RR.
In the end, I had completed the entire way back from two days earlier in one day. It was about 27km, only possible because it was mostly downhill (450m uphill, 700m downhill).
The price for this strategy was scratches and mini cuts from knees to shoes, very unpleasant at every river crossing.

Day 4: OH-TL-V to the glacier at Laguna Calluqueo. You have to cross the river right at the beginning, it was a bit over your knees but easy. After that it's a slow climb of almost 700m. There were only a few tricky places: mini path on the precipice or slippery downhill. Overall, the path was very easy to recognize and very pleasant to run. Water is only available again at km 3.5, so you should take your time and enjoy the trail at a leisurely pace.
During the night, a tent pole broke and the tent was damaged. There are no outdoor stores in Cochrane and you can't buy a new tent. In addition, a section on RR-GPT35 from Tamango entrance through Patagonia Park was not yet open.

==Season 2022/23==

*'''13.03.23 - 18.03.23 / Anna & Christopher / SOBO, Cochrane - Villa O'Higgins / 5.5 days'''
We camped approximately 3 km outside of Cochrane to get an early start on the first day. After walking some km we got pretty lucky and got two hitchhikes and were able to skip 41 km until km 53. The views in between were amazing though, especially Glaciar Calluqueo. The next day it was supposed to rain a lot until the afternoon. Therefore we planned half a day in the tent and went to a small simple shelter at km 65.8, that is indicated on Gaia.

It didn't rain as bad as last predicted and we were able to continue around 2 pm. The weather got surprisingly good then. Nice stretch over the pass. We camped at around km 76 next to the river. All rivercrossings were all pretty chill, even with Anna beeing 1,63m. But there were tons of small streams, muddy pools and rivers to cross. We had no dry feet for 5 days. There were also lots of fallen trees to climb over/walk around from Puesto la Pampa until Lago Christie, therefore that stretch took us longer than expected. The trail between approx. km 105 to 107 is starting to get really overgrown. It was still wet from the rain and our pants were completely drenched after we got through there, even without rain.

We met the settler at km 118.9. He even invited us in, but we continued on to make some more km that day and camped at km 122.9, which is a pretty nice spot at the lake.

The next morning we had to slip into frozen shoes to continue. After another friendly encounter with the next settler, we were happy to reach the dirtroad, were it felt good to gain kilometers a lot faster again. We spent the night at the refugio km 148.7 with a fireplace.

On our final day there were some fantastic views. Just when the road got more dull and we started our first brake after approx. 11 km, a car of the Carabineros passed and they took us to Villa O'Higgins. A pretty lucky section for us :)

* '''Feb. 2-8 / Zach + Veronica / 36H-Regular Packrafting Route / 7 days'''
I did the hiking parts of 36H with Veronica. After hitching the Carratera I had a windless late morning paddle from the Lago Esmeralda picnic site where a group of military were training in rafts. Veronica described the hike to Lago Alegre. To start Lago Christie, Option X would put you better in line with the wind which was strong, blowing straight through the narrow all the way to the cozy refugio at the otherwise blustery southern end of Christie. Just past Salto Pérez there are two rapids visible from the road. Putting in after those, Rio Perez was a scenic and swift ride with avoidable submerged trees all the way to Rio Mayer, which is stronger than it looks. I put in again past the first mortal rapid and rode straight to the take out before the second mortal rapid. The waypointed rapids in between were very challenging, almost flipping me twice. After taking out of Rio Mayer, I hopped the black fence for option 27. The minor roads in this area are undulating and steep but well maintained with painted guardrails, bridges, and directional signage at intersections. I had a pleasant conversation with one worker on ATV. I tried to do Option 27E but the wind was too strong on the lake in the evening and also the next morning. Backtracking, I paddled the pleasant Rio Briceño between the impressive falls near the lake down to another set of falls near the lower bridge (between[-48.2710, -72.492] and [-48.2726, -72.4772]). The wind on Lago Briceño seemed calm in the cove of the sheltered picnic refuge/dock (km 251.6), but around the corner a strong headwind turned me around. The walk to Lago El Salto had commanding views. Lagos El Salto and Cisnes both provided tail winds. The short trail between these lakes was overgrown and difficult to follow, but it was worthwhile to follow the trail as bushwhacking often led to spiky plant jail. Tailwind continued all the way to the O’Higgins bridge. I highly recommend El Mosco Hostal/camping.

* '''2 to 8 of February 2023 / Véronica & Zach / GPT36H RR SOBO / 7 days'''
Route: Cochrane - Mirador Glaciar Colluqueo - Río Pedregoso - Paso La Picota - Río Bravo - Lago Christie - Río Mayer - Villa O'Higgins

We stayed at Camping Calafate while we were in Cochrane. Great camping area with a kitchen, laundry service, hot showers, and wifi for 6,000 clp per person. The owner is very kind too.

We were quite fortunate this section to enjoy good weather almost the whole way. We were able to hitch the first few km on the Carretera Austral. Then Zach packrafted across Laguna Esmeralda while I took the primary road on the RR to the east of it. Very little traffic on the primary road, and we walked most of it, only ended up being able to hitch a ride for the last 10 km or so, to the junction at 39.9 km where the RR becomes a minor road.

At that point it was getting late, and we wanted to camp at the waypoint Lake, Camp {36H} [109.8/334] along the minor road. We set up our tents, but after it was dark, around 10:30 p.m., we were surprised by the arrival of a man with a dog and a horse. Talking with him, we realized he was the owner of the land we were on, and his house was right nearby (we hadn't seen it when we initially set up camp). He said it was ok and that we could camp here though, that we didn't have to move.

The next morning, around 8 a.m., we packed our things and walked to the house, with the intention of thanking the man for letting us camp on his property. There were no signs of life around his house, so we assumed he might be still sleeping or was already out and about. So we left along the dirt road again. His dog followed us. We figured it would eventually return home. Afted ~6km, we were surprised by the settler coming at us down the road on his horse with his whip raised in a threatening way. He was very angry and upset at us about his missing dog, and initially thought we had taken his dog with us on purpose. We did our best to explain that the dog had simply followed us, we did not coax it or feed it, and that we were very sorry it followed us and had no bad intentions. After a bit of discussion, the settler calmed down and we were able to chat about where we were hiking and such. We seemed to part on good terms, but it wasn't a pleasant experience, and we wished we'd known that the land on the south shore of the lake where we camped belonged to a settler, and is not really a viable wild camping place. The GPS tracks only indicate "buildings" nearby, but that waypoint should say "settler" instead, and perhaps the camping waypoint by the lake should be removed. S 47° 30.166', W 072° 31.809' is where the settler house is.

The rest of the trail went well. The views of the various glaciers were wonderful, and we had mostly good weather the whole way. Zach took Option 36H-B that necessitates fording La Picota. It was early in the morning and he was able to ford it with the water reaching his waist. I took the regular route further west, which was a bit steep on shale rocks at first, but easy to follow.

The ford at km 77.4 was the most difficult ford in this section for me, the current was strong and cold and went up to my hips. Fording Río Bravo was easier, and we only did it once, next to the laguna. Option 36H-D had virtually no bushwhacking — there was a clear path to follow in the forest.

There were regular water sources between Puesto La Pampa (km 83.9) and Puesto Tablas (km 98.4), as well as occasional good spots to camp.

Once we got to Lago Alegre, I walked the regular hiking route east of the lake while Zach packrafted across with a good tailwind. Very beautiful trail, loads of crowberries and Calafate berries to eat too. I took Option 36H-G, where there is a large tree trunk you can walk across over the river. Zach packrafted Lago Christie as well, although the wind was much stronger in the afternoon. The refuge at the south end of Lago Christie is a good place to sleep out of the wind.

The roadwalk to town was quite scenic, with a few refuges along the way. Zach took the packrafting route while I stayed on the minor road. I ended up walking all of it except for the final 8 km. There was very little traffic, and I didn't mind walking through the gorgeous landscapes.

* '''Dec 2022 Frank'''
There is a bus from Cochrane to Lago Brown twice a week (see transport section) Taking it to the junction with Route 901, a little after the bridge over Rio Tranquilo, will save a 34KM road walk.

* '''GPT36H and Option 2 / Yannic & Mirjam / 22-Dec-2022 / Southbound'''
Regular Route to Option 2 We started from Cochrane and did the first part on the Carretera Austral by car stop. After that you get on a side road with very little traffic. We didn't have a car in 4 hours so we hiked. Then there was one that didn't take us, then nothing again. In the end we hiked everything. We wanted to spend the night at Laguna Confluencia (south at Camp 109.8/334). Unfortunately we were surprised by barking dogs, but could not see a house. We therefore returned to the road and spent the night a few hundred metres further ahead in the meadow. Next day on the Minor Road and Trail was nice and easy. We spent the night next to the Puesto Cayuqueo. From there we went through the forest, which is partly badly damaged by storms. Many fallen trees. But you can always find the way again. We then took the western route (not 36H-B). The river only has to be crossed once at a shallow point. Partly very sloping path, but easy to pass. We crossed Rio Bravo at the lagoon, which was even possible in the evening. We spent the night at the lagoon and hiked everything on the east side the next day. OH-CC&BB-A {36H-D} was well passable. Nice place to camp near Puesto Tablas at S 47.92184 W 72.56781.

Option 2 All went well and we were set for an "easy" exit via option 2 - which surprised us.... The path is up and down. Partly well passable and easy path, partly very overgrown (up to bush bashing). Although we had only light rain, the path was very marshy and matchy. We sank in up to our knees. Nice refugio with fireplace at the end of the trail. The Carreteral Austral is not very busy. Cars only come when the ferry docks in Rio Bravo. It is best to check the timetable in advance. Then you can wait comfortably in the refugio. El Mosco is perfect to wait for the ferry in O'Higgins. For us 6 days....

* '''2022 Dec Frank 6 days mainly SOBO'''

As weather was initially poor I split the section as follows: 1. Got bus from Cochrane towards Lago Brown, got out @ road junction near Rio Tranquilo bridge, walked NOBO back to Cochrane. 2. While I was waiting for the ferry in Villa O'Higgins I walked out about 25KM NOBO to Padre Antonio Ronchi chapel & hitched back to O'Higgins. 3. I again got the bus towards Lago Brown, got out @ the same junction & walked the central section of the route SOBO in 4 long days.

1. NOBO, nearly all on road. You pass by the 'mortal falls' on Rio Tranquilo (by the bridge) About 1KM further on the road was blocked by aggressive dogs who came up from a settlement about 800M off the road. I had to shout to the settler to call them off. Around 7KM out from Cochrane the road bends left at a metal crash barrier. I left the RR here & went over the low crash barrier & continued straight ahead on forest tracks, quicker & nicer than the road. About 1KM from Cochrane you return to the road by climbing over a small wooden gate.

3. I walked on the road past Calluqueo glacier then on a trail. After the first puesto the track fades out among fallen trees. Camped by a ruined shelter. I crossed the river on RR the next day. La Picota crossing is for horses & best avoided on foot. The RR crossing was easy. After the crossing continue straight ahead & go up the far hillside, pick up a small trail going left above a bluff about 70 metres up. Continued over the 2 border passes. There are some cliffs you need to go round when descending the first pass . There will be snowfields early in the season also. I crossed Rio Bravo high up between two waterfalls, descended to cross it again by the lake, then stayed on LHS of Rio Bravo. No trail initially on LHS of river & a lot of bush bashing over bluffs but judging by later comments the route may now be improved. I continued down to Lago Alegre. There is a settler just as you reach Lago Alegre. She was friendly & allowed me to sleep in her barn. She radioed Ruben, the settler who lives on Lago Christie, to let him know I was coming. It's slow going round the lakes with lots of up & down over bluffs. The hut between the two lakes had been used by sheep & was not in v. good condition. I met Ruben about half way round Lago Christie. He was friendly but I continued on to camp by a ruined hut after descending from bluffs to the lake. I walked out the road to Padre Antonio Ronchi chapel & hitched from there to Villa O'Higgins. There is a good hut on the road at the junction with the X905 road. Another hut further on but it's dusty. All other huts marked on the route are in poor condition or ruined, they are mostly good for cooking & camping outside. The weather for the central section was good so I didn't have any problems. It's possible to hitch part of the road sections - traffic is sparse but they will usually stop. In both cases when you reach the road there is nothing, you need to walk out about 15KM & then start hitching.

==Season 2021/22==
* '''GPT 36P/ Ruta de Los Pioneros/ Option Río Baker and Valle de los Ñadis/ Packrafting Route / 2022 Feb-20 / 9.5 days / Tobias Schorcht and Jonas Grünewald'''
I packrafted from Balsa Baker (Cochrane) 50km downstream. On this section I faced 2 rapids. The first one -47,41143, -72,90798 has to be paddled from the right side (between 2 rocks). After the river is united again, stay in the center to avoid the swirls on the right side. The second rapid (class 3) needs to be ported, at least the first 20m. At the confluence with Río de los Ñadis I left the River and met with Jonas. We took a 20km Roadwalk southwards and entered the Valle de los Ñadis. Unfortunately we didn’t had Jan’s new GPS Tracks in this Part and got kind of lost on day 2, because of a misunderstanding with a settler. Now we know, that the trail is all the way to family Caucamán on the right side of the valley. We shared a mate with Ariel Caucamán, who explained us, how to get to Lago Desplaye. Found the lake after some struggles with navigation and camped right next to it. Luckily there was only some wind the following morning, so we made it with my Packraft to the stunning Glacier. Followed the river bank of Río Desplaye down to Lago Allegre. I packrafted Lago Alegre and Lago Christie, while Jonas walked. I was faster because the wind was in my favorite. The weather turned really bad with strong wind and rain on day 8. We stayed in the Refugio (-48,20300, -72,33202) close to the airport and made a fire. Because of bad weather conditions we decided to walk on the road to Villa O’Higgens instead of discovering the lakes.

==Season 2019/20==
* '''Martín Lizondo / 3-Feb-2020 / Regular Hiking Southbound'''
At this date the route is perfectly traversable. The settlers are happy to receive visitors. Path well visible 95% of the time. No snow at the pass and no dangerous river crossings, but only some suggestions: 1. cross Rio Bravo only once (47º 47' 53,49" S, 72º 31' 15,78" O) and then continue on the east margin with some bush bashing, instead of crossing it multiple times; 2. consider crossing the dirty river of sector Alegre at 48º 2' 20,65" S, 72º 29' 27,81" O instead of the gps track regular point nearer to the house. Way to Villa O’Higgins, at the road, Julia Torres offers place for tent and great fresh food ( 48º 15' 41,47" S, 72º 25' 43,52" O ). Good luck and enjoy!

* '''GPT36H Regular Packrafting Route / Southern End: Laguna Clara to Villa O‘Higgins'''
2020-Jan-08 1.5 days Meylin Ubilla & Jan Dudeck

The „Ruta de los Pioneros“ is one of the historic routes that was created and used by the first settlers in the last century. This route connected Villa O’Higgins with Cochrane long before the Carreta Austral was completed in the year 2000.

The northern and the southern terminus; approx. 50 km on each end; are now upgraded to gravel roads. Only the roughly 100 km in the middle remain a classic animal trail made and created by people on horses to drive cattle.

To bypass as much as feasible of these gravel roads we have investigated in recent years multiple alternatives on both ends of GPT36H. Especially with a packraft most of these gravel road kilometers can be bypassed on a very attractive combination of lakes and rivers with shorter portages in between.

We now investigated and verified a route that first crosses the 2 km wide Lago Claro and than connects on an excellent 2 km trail to Rio Meyer. To continue either only cross Rio Meyer (like we did) or float downstream o. this river up to 4 km (alternative river exit to be scouted first!). An perfectly maintained trail leads then to Lago Biceño (2 to 6 km depending on only crossing Rio Meyer or floating downstream up to 4 km on Rio Mayer). Here a decision needs to be made depending on wind: either paddle a part of Lago Briceño or or continue walking 8 km to Salto on an scenic very well maintained trail (Alternatively a 6 km long trail connects from Lago Briceño to Lago Salto on a different route). After traversing 4 km on Lago Salto a 1 km short animal trail leads to Lago Cines. Once you reach Lago Cisnes it’s 13 km on a combination of lakes and rivers that gets you very close to Villa O’Higgins. Only the last 3 km into the village must be walked on a gravel road.

We travelled this route in 1.5 days and really enjoyed the landscape, the excellent trails and the scenic paddling. Even in suboptimal weather this route is feasible and offers plenty of alternatives and escape routes. Therefore I will re-route the regular packrafting route of GPT36H to this route.

Between Lago Claro and Lago Salto we discovered the best maintained trails of the entire Aysen region. Bridges cross even the smallest streams and all muddy areas are crossed on wooden passages. After years of hiking in this region this came as a surprise. But we also know why. These trails were not created to serve the public but a single family: los “Luksic”, the richest clan of Chile (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andrónico_Luksic_Abaroa). They buy up huge plots of land in this region to create family resorts and as investments. The land between Lago Claro and Lago Salto is owned to my knowledge by this family. And they have the money to contract a large stuff to i.e. create and maintain trails on their properties. What was nice: when a group of 3 employees passed us on a trail on quarts they did not challenge us but gave use useful recommendations how to continue. Legally, access to lakes, rivers and the coast must be given in Chile even if the private property i.e. surrounds a lake but landlords can make it difficult anyway. To my knowledge all access routes from public roads a locked but since we accessed this area on water we did not have to climb over locked gates. Therefore this route seams to me suitable for packrafters.

Multiple route variations are feasible that link in further lakes. Short bushwhacking portages might be required in this case but the landscape and vegetation seams generally more open than the Valdivian rain forrest on the Aysen coast. Someone can easily spend up to 5 days discovering other packrafting routes in this area.

*'''11/12/2019 - les 2 As - regular hiking route'''

Hi! We finished this day the section 36 from north to south. It took us 6 days without the last 37 kms on the road (we hitchhiked on this part). It was rough, we have had 2 days of bad weather (only rain at our altitude but it changes everything). You are isolated in the middle of nowhere and we met no one during 5 days. Officially no bush bashing but sometimes the path is barely invisible and unmaintained so hard to walk. From the 3rd day to the end, we have had many rivercrossings. Some were easy, some not and some also quite dangerous. With all the snow melting, the level of the river is very high and the current is strong (I do not recommand to try these fords without walking poles, these saved us). Same situation with the lakes we walked near. Their level is high and often the path was submerged and we had to walk litteraly in the lake (sometimes up to the waist). Luckily we met 2 cabañas (2 last nights) to dry our clothes and sleep under a roof. This made the section even more wonderful than it already was. A great experience!

* '''2019 Dec / Olrik / Northbound'''

From O'Higgins there are 50km on a dirt road to the beginning of the sendero. There are some open refugios on the way to sleep. you can also arrange a paid transportation from O'Higgins. Hitchhiking is possible but there is not much traffic. The sendero was in pretty bad shape due to the weather conditions. Muddy and flooded all the way near the lakes. We ended up turning back as we did not plan to walk that slow and did not have enough food, and we felt it was safer. We met Matthieu (see below) and they completed it so his report seems better. Puesteros are really nice though.

* '''2019 Dec / Matthieu / Northbound Regular HR : 9 days'''
A very difficil trekk for us. Lots of river crossings, sometimes unsafe, and we had very bad weather conditions that make us last 9 days on the trekk, with hitchiking 40 km after Villa and 30 km before Cochrane. It could habe been more rapid though, but we walked "tranquilito". So I would recommend to take 10 days of food,and the chileans agreed with this.

I wont talk about the routes parts, because just long and we hitchhiked most.

So 1st Part : The 2 lakes : A very technical trekk, very aquatic. Sometimes we had to walk in the lake (not dangerous though), and the trail by the lakes is very hilly and muddy, and the progression can be very slow. It was for us, with mostly only rain. 1 dangerous rivercrossing : Before El Caleuche, Strong river but a big fat trunk above perfect for crossing.We didnt search for another way of crossing, so maybe there are some safe places by the water.

On this part, a few puestos good for shelters : between the two lakes, a good caban with possibility of making fire and a roof of metal and walls, very nice, two beds of wood, we slept in it well protected. El Caleuche : at the middle of the Lago alegre, near a abandoned house. POssibility of fire, but not really a good roof. We slept aside in the tents. The place is really nice though

2 houses of settlers on the way : - Ruben at the beginning of the Lago Christie, always happy to have visitors and share a mate. - At the end of the Lago Allegre a little bit south west from the trail (a rivercrossing a bit strong to go to the caban, or a "bridge" called Bridge ?-4 on the GPS waypoints, with 2 trunks, that we took in the morning to go back to the trail. A bit dangerous though, better to let Carmen show you how to cross): Ringo y Carmen, amazing persons too who let us plant the tent and permitted us to warm with a good mate, a meal and a wonderful smile, during the Christmas night.

2nd part : Rio Bravo and the pass We thought that the worst was behind but we had more strong weather conditions in this part. A few advises for the rivercrossings of the Rio Bravo : I would advise NOT to follow the GPS tracks that follow the normal trail on GPS devices (that is made normally for horses). All the locals (local guides in villa o higgins, Ruben, Carmen and Ringo) were agreed and told us all to follow the east side of the Rio UNTIL the Laguna. The crossing here is very safe, the rio not strong nor profund at all, and you have to cross it ONLY ONCE, instead of 4 or 5 (dont remember). To stay on the east side, there is a little cross country by the forest, a little bit technical and slow but not dangerous, and you can camp at the laguna on the east side. We saw some cairns in the forest too, on the last hill before the laguna, so the locals indeed use this way. We (very badly) abandonned this plan and passed by the normal way just near the camping site west from the river before the Laguna (really bad weather, really bad decisions !) and the rivercrossings (3 I think) were, for me, very dangerous with strong current in profund water, but there was a lot of rain and wind, so I wont judge during good conditions. We were frozen when we arrived at the camping site. I was very angry at me though to not have listened to the locals and taken all those risks.

For the pass, not very difficult, but we had (again) very strong weather conditions with even snow, and finished at the camp at the north side completely frozen. Know that it can be very exposed !

Last Part : Rio La Picota After the camping : Two choices - Following the normal road, made for horses. The rivercrossing is completely impossible, unless you want to join the fishes. Even for horses I don't understand how they do it. The Waypoint "Dangerous" totally make sense. - The GPS tracks : perfect to follow, and finished by a beautiful trail of cairns by the cliff (the optionnal trail OH on GPS track), very safe. The river crossing this way is very safe, the river is extremely large, separated and never go far from the ankle.

The rest we didn't have any technical difficulties. A trekk not to take lightly, and with much respect. Take advises to the locals before. Every one is happy to talk about it in Villa. They have the bad habbit to say that it's an easy way though !

* '''2019-Nov-12 / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe / 6 days / northbound / regular hiking route'''

This was a tough section for us! It rained and it rained and it rained and the trail turned to mud and was pretty overgrown in parts. We took the optional Hiking route after reaching Rio Bravo heading South to the Carretera Austral because we didn't feel comfortable forging on, knowing there was a high pass that was probably getting tons of snow instead of our rain, and a "dangerous river ford" that we were afraid would be tok dangerous with flooding too. The snow-line appeared to drop as low as 700 meters one night! We made surprisingly slow progress because of the conditions (entire trail flooded knee deep and extremely muddy after 6 days of rain) - were glad to have extra food with us. On the bail out route, about 10km from reaching the safety of the Carratera there was a pretty big river to cross. It was swollen after all the rain and scary and nearly floated us away. From the Carratera we hiked about 20 minutes before catching a lift back to Villa O'Higgins

==Season 2018/19==

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18'''

Walk through town and join Highway 7, a moderately trafficked dirt road. The Regular Hiking Route follows X-901, a beautiful but fenced dirt road that culminates in the view of a stunning glacier, for about 28 km until it ends at a blockade just after the Mirador Calluqueo. Along X-901 there are few residences but extensive fence line on both sides. At the end of the road, the route transitions into a braided single track trail that may be confusing to follow.

Comment by Jan Dudeck: I recently changed the regular packrafting route of GPT36H. This change avoids 35 km of gravel and adds around 70 km of paddling on the two lakes and one river. It’s a big detour but adds impressive beauty. Note that paddling Lago Cochrane is very challenging as wind can be firce. Follow the regular packrafting route only if you are willing and prepared to possibly wait several days on the shore of Lago Cochrane if wind makes paddling this lake unsafe.

The trail, called La Ruta de Los Pioneros since it is frequently used by the local people, occasionally passes run down refugios as it winds through the forest. At the beginning of the climb to the highest pass, the trail joins a glacial river. Eventually the trail leaves the river to the west and follows a higher route above the valley that is occasionally marked by stone cairns. The top of the pass is at approximate elevation 1.300 m. From this point, there are several kilometers of very exposed hiking among rolling hills.

The track descends down to treeline at a small, unnamed lake which is the source of the Río Bravo. Join the river and cross it as necessary. There are some stone cairns that mark the way, but they can be hard to spot. When the route is unclear, just follow the river bed. Where the trail deviates from the river bed to the east, it becomes easier to follow. The trail soon climbs about 80 m and remains above Río Bravo. Here there is the occasional small area to camp. To reach Lago Alegre, the trail leaves Río Bravo and travels through an open forest.

Packrafters put in for Lago Alegre at a red sand beach. In general, both banks are very steep and heavily vegetated, but there are some flat areas near the shore where it may be possible to camp. Take-out is located at a rocky beach on the southeast end. 100 m from the Lago Alegre shoreline is an intact refugio; if you look closely inside, you may spot the etchings of GPT trail blazers, Jan and Meylin.

From the refugio, there is a well-formed track to Lago Christie. The Regular Hiking route around the east side of Lago Christie is generally easy to follow, but be aware of the occasional spurs that leads away from the main route. The track climbs and descends frequently as it makes its way around the lake and offers a beautiful view of several glaciers. Watch for the occasional stone cairn or red spray-painted arrow to indicate the way. Camping is possible in the forest.

The route exits onto X-911, a well formed and lightly trafficked gravel road. X-911 ends at X-905, and hikers continue to follow this road for around 20 km towards VIlla O’Higgins. X-905 is fence lined most of the way with the occasional residence.

Río Mayer is a big, no-nonsense river that is swift at higher flows. It does however mellow out where the GPS route indicates packrafters should put in (a small beach on the other side of the fence).

The Regular Hiking Route follows the Carretera Austral into Villa O’Higgins.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Villa O’Higgins

The biggest thing to realize about Villa O’Higgins is that nearly all of the lodging and restaurant options only take cash and there is no ATM in town. The closest place to withdraw money is Cochrane which is a 9-hour drive. Fortunately, there are two grocery stores in town thatl take credit cards. Lodging options vary from camping to a bed in a hostel.
2024/Joscha
I would recommend Los Cuatreros (-48.463589, -72.559946) and Los Coigues (-48.464742, -72.559453) for resupply. They are cheaper than the other supermarkets.

*Supermarket on the square in Cochrane. Several shops in Villa O'Higgins.

*Banco Estado on the square in Cochrane. The ATM was open on Christmas day.

*Cochrane: Campsite run by Patricia half a block from the Plaza. She does a good breakfast & also has Cabanas & a 4 bed dorm.

*Zapatoria Cochrane: Little Blue house North side of Dr Stefan's Street, above Rio Maitén street. -47.2541386, -72.5761942.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*There are no resupply options & you should bring everything from Cochrane or O'Higgins. There are only two settlers living permanently on the central off road RR: A woman at Lago Alegre & Ruben on Lago Christie. All other off road puestos are only used occasionally.

=Transport to and from Route=

*There is a minibus from Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins on Monday, Wednesday & Saturday at 8AM & one from O'Higgins to Cochrane on Tuesday, Thursday & Sunday @ 8AM. Operated by Buses Katalina, they have an office at the bus terminal in Cochrane. There is a minibus from Cochrane to Lago Brown on Monday & Thursday at 11AM. It comes back from Lago Brown on the same days & passes the junction with RR at about 2PM.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT36H - Ruta De Los Pioneros]]

=Images=
[[Archivo:IMG 7500.jpeg|left|Puerto Yungay - Rio Bravo Ferry Timetable February 2024]]

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