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GPT19 (Volcan Puyehue)

2026-02-17T20:04:11Z

Ben McLuckie: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''2026-01-25 to 2026-01-29 / 3 days + 1 zero / Hiking / SOBO / Option 2, RR, Option 1, RR, Option 4, RR / Chris & Lotte'''

Stunning section, my favorite so far in terms of attractiveness to km ratio.

About Option 2: since I met Erwin last year already, I early on contacted him and told him we'd come by and stay for a night with them. This time Don Hector and Nery were at their house as well. They are truly lovely people, we shared a lot.of laughs and Don Hector gave us a big tour around the property and showed us, where they used to wash their clothes in the river 50 years ago.
They charge 5kCLP pp for passing. They didnt want more money for staying the night with them, we paid 15k anyways, as I paid it last year as well and it seems like a fair price for camping, water, hot shower.
Enrique (mentioned by Greg) does not seem to have the best reputation in the valley, one calling him a scammer. It might be a neighborhood feud, I couldn't tell for sure.
The path (RR-MR) is managed and maintained by the municipality. its strange, that both entrys to it are crossing private property.
Last year, the gates on Variant D werent locked as well. This time we didnt check.
Another point to mention is: two times loose dogs charged at us. The first time one and he only hopped the fence after we had passed his propeety, so he didnt charge us. The second time three very aggressive dogs charged at us, even before we were halfway of their property. the brown one was actively trying to attack us. We fenced them off with our poles, didnt let them circle us and fought our way past them. No owner in sight, noone reacted to our "hola"s. Be prepared.

Water is a struggle. Couldnt confirm the water sources indicated by others, but found one spring at 40.562851, 072.142571 which I didnt encounter last year. It seems simply not reliable. There is very very little snow left. Some rivers were dry, that were flourishing last year. Hot spring had visibly lower water level than usual and defenitly hotter than last year and smelled a bit like piss for some reason.
The river at 40.592226, 072.135329 should be marked in my opinion though. It seems quite resilient to draught.

Climbing the summit was easer than anticipated. It took us less than 2hrs up, 50min down. "Official" estimate is 2:30hrs up. Its not as gravel-ly as other volcanos and we defenitly recommend to take on this extra effort.

If you want to make the bus at 7:30am a suitable campspot with water somewhat closeby is at 40.624894, 072.149846 (near water 75.4).
The refugio was crowded (not even the weekend). We were 12 people, therefore we stayed in our tent. The others didnt bring tents as they intended only to stay the night and summit the next morning.

'''2026-01-24 to 2026-01-27 / 3.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Basti, Isi, Maija, Steff'''

We did Puyehue NOBO in-and-out to the geysers with a detour to the hotsprings due to missing knowledge about alternative routes and to leave our luggage at Santiago's.

Day 1: We took a bus from Puerto Montt to Entre Lagos and easily got a hitch to the intersection to Hotel Puyehue/Aguas Calientes. We did not get a hitch from there in one hour waiting, but got an offer from the resident in the first house after the intersection to drive us for 20.000$. We started hiking relatively late (16:00) and climbed the fence of Santiago's property and payed 15.000$ pp for the right to use the path. The restaurant is closed, but the campsite could be used for 5.000$ pp. We slept the first night at Refugio El Caulle after a steep but not too difficult ascent. No problems/encounters with mice inside the hut (saw one outside though) and no other people (Saturday night). Very basic plank beds without mattresses, but relatively tidy.

Day 2: We found sufficient water in multiple spots along RR -40.60257, 72.13280 (W1), -40.59183, -72.13529 (W2), -40.56460, -72.14192 (W3), -40.56294, -72.14272 (W4), but afterwards none anymore this day. W1 had more and cleaner water in the morning than W2, but more sediments in the evening on day 3. W4 was superior to W3 and marked by a red canister slightly up the river bed before vanishing underground. We climbed up to the crater from -40.57792, -72.13386 which was short but steep. We made camp at -40.49311, -72.15954 close to the geyser but up the slopes without finding water close by. Due to the humidity of the geyser, we had wet and a little icy tents in the morning.

Day 3: We did the hotsprings -40.46725, -72.20692, some 3kms after the end of the path in OSM, return and found great water at -40.48677, -72.17843 with a stream in the whole valley. We walked back on RR. We slept at -40.60240, -72.13383 which was nicely flat with water closeby (W1, lots of sediments in the evening). Nice star sky. In the night, the wind picked up and it got very dusty though.

Day 4: We climbed up to the crater again, this time the path from the refugio visible on OSM. Easier but more elevation. By the time we came back to the refugio at around 11/12, there were 3 people for the night. Hiked down to the street again and continued to the camping in Anticura for food. Nice restaurant and cheap camping, no store with nice waterfalls close by (possibility so swim).

We really enjoyed the hike! Gaitors would have been nice, the loose volcanic rocks are really tough on shoes and socks. We took the small (and only) early morning bus back to Osorno, around 7:30, stopping both in Anticura and at Santiago's.

'''2026-01-21 to 2026-01-23/ 3 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Option 2, RR, Variant D, Variant E, RR, Option 4, RR/ Greg Carter'''

Overall
Incredible volcanic terrain and vistas!

Attraction: 5
Difficulty: 3

Access on Variant D
I contacted (full name) Enrique Fernando Nuñez (+56 9 8817 1134) on WhatsApp to arrange access on Variant D. He asked me to come to his house in Riñinahue so he could give me a key, and said the access cost is CLP 10,000 per person. Unfortunately he lives almost 2km from the start of Option 2, here: -40.32940, -72.22500. I walked to his house, had a nice chat and found out that he manages the forest in the vicinity of the black gate (-40.42611, -72.11122) on Variant D. He showed me a video of where he hides the key for the gate. However when I arrived there the gate was not locked!

I suggest that if you want to arrange access you ask Enrique to meet you in Riñinahue town when you arrive, to avoid the hassle of a 4km round trip to his house.

Day 1
I hitched easily a few times, up to the new bridge under construction [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue). The RR from there is a tedious walk up a MR. On the way I found a spring flowing across the road: -40.39866, -72.09008. There is also a bridge with a flowing stream: -40.40579, -72.10656, and good flowing water in a gully: -40.40810, -72.11114.

At the intersection of the RR and Variant D I saw that the gate across the RR was locked, so considering that I had arranged access, I turned right up variant D. See the note above for access through the black gate. Not far beyond this is another gate, which was also open.

Needing water and curious about the availability of water I turned onto Variant E. I found a little stream at -40.42948, -72.11325.

I then rejoined the RR.

Day 2
This day was far more enjoyable and interesting, especially once above the treeline, with geysers, numerous lava fields, ridge walking and mountain views (despite low cloud for most of the day).

I encountered no water until the good flowing spring (previously noted) at -40.56313, -72.14318.

The next water encountered was at -40.59196, -72.13544, a good flowing stream.

I camped close to the next water [71.9/ 1610], where there is a large flat circular area: -40.60241, -72.13381. This is a good base camp for the summit climb.

Day 3
This day started with clear blue sky and no wind, perfect for the summit. The caldera was stunning, as were the 360 degree views to all the other peaks and volcanoes in the region. For me this bumped the attraction up to 5/5 from 4/5.

The walk out was easy but involved a lot of steep downhill sections. When I passed Santiago’s place I said I had paid Enrique, and was not asked for money. There is cellular coverage around Santiago’s place.

At the main road I hitched to the Chile/ Argentina border, intending to get to Bariloche. To my surprise the border officials wouldn’t let me through on foot unless I had arranged transport with someone with a vehicle. Only then could I get an exit stamp. I found a ride by hanging out in the car park and approaching people who looked the most likely to help.

''' GPT19/ 2026-1-5 to 2026-1-7/3 days/ SOBO/RR/Denis, Robert '''
The road from Lake Maihue is pretty easy going only thing is ford of river Hueinahue, it is wide but narrow no problem. After ford I would try to stay next to the river and go down stream and join the road lower instead of following trail. We had to jumped over two fences and go through some bush, but possible. Last water around 50 km.
Before the gate we first called Erwin +56 9 7306 4535 but he redirected us to Sra Nery Raddatz +56 9 9776 9352. After asking for permission he said that if we are not afraid of dogs we can jump over the fence and go up. We didn’t need to pay anything. The trail is bit overgrown after fence.
Next small stream we found here (-40.56274, -72.14291) and then proper water source at 71 km.
We hitchhiked to Entre Lagos from. Anticura it went pretty smooth busy traffic.

Difficulty 3/5
Attractiveness 4/5

*''' 2025.28.12 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Var. D + H / Kris, Stiina and Bailey'''

We connected sections 19, 20 and 21 from Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue) to Port {21} [29.4/204] (El Callao) - 5 walking days in total.

Day 1 - We got a late 4pm lift with a friend to Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue), as mentioned earlier it is now a big construction site, seemed like a construction of a new bridge.
Two angry dogs and a cow with two calves right at the gate before Hector’s place where the RR continues. Even though dogs made a lot of noise nobody came out and we didn’t want to open and go through the gate because of the dogs and the cornered cow with the calves. So we turned to variant D and there was the new, black, freshly painted gate. The gaps between the babed wire on the side were generous enough so that we could get through without climbing the gate. 100m further there was another gate, older looking with signs prohibiting entrance and there being surveillance cameras. There was a phone nr to call but no phone signal, but there also was a gap between fence posts that one could squeeze through which we did.
Our initial plan was to rejoin the RR via variant E but we needed water and saw some potential water on satellite and also marked as water on the osm so we continued along variant D it also seemed to be joining back the RR later on and the distance was more or less the same.
And we found a big stream in a ravine with a road passing over it but the stream was 15m down in a canyon impossible to get to, however 30m further on: -40.43197, -72.11723 there was a very very small flowing stream that we managed to get water from.
As we walked on a car came towards us and stopped, a slightly agitated guy stepped out and immediately asked us how did we had managed to get through the gates. When we explained the situation he said it will cost us 10k CLP pp to go through here, since we were kind of trespassing and were caught we said we will pay no problem after which he softened up and became a lot friendlier. He is the owner of the land Enrique Nuñez and his phone nr is +56 988 171 134. He said that it is not a problem for people to pass through his property as long as they let him know and pay I guess - he put up the gate so that people with cars couldn’t pass. Also the road going through has been recently “maintained” and a 4x4 could get up it so he said if you come with a car he can also let you through. Afterwards he told us that we can camp wherever we want and told us about the wildlife cameras on the property that he has managed to capture different animals on, such as pumas and wild hogs. He also mentioned the termas and that there is a water somewhere nearby them, but we weren’t exactly sure where the thermas were, except for the coordinates provided by Peggy. He also said something about building or there being a refugio somewhere.
We camped here -40.44411, -72.12758 by some old storage shed with lots of empty motor oil containers inside. You can hear a stream nearby but we couldn’t find a way to get to it it’s still down in a canyon.

Day 2 - In the morning we wanted to find some more water for the day without going back to where we found it yesterday. Again I could see on the satellite image that there should be some further up along the variant D which there was here -40.44985, -72.11917 there is also a gully with water 100m before but with a bit more downclimbing over the logs.
The confusing part was this junction that isn’t mentioned along the variant D -40.44735, -72.12289. The main MR follows the OSM trail up to where there are the supposed termas, however the variant D traverses back to RR along a lesser traveled path. Since the potential water gullies that we saw on the sat were along the variant D we followed it instead of going up the road.
Once we rejoined the RR about 5km later there is another trail junction here -40.48121, -72.13715 where the OSM trail from variant D joins the RR. At the junction the OSM trail is marked with big blue markers on the trees and I would say if I was going NOBO that’s the trail I would take instead of the RR. I think the variants should be updated here and someone should double confirm about the exact location of the termas and whether there is drinking water nearby. According to Enrique the water is somewhere down on the right side.
The junction is where the two questionable water points are, Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] and the one a bit further but since we had enough and the waypoints were off trail somewhere we didn’t go to investigate.

The geyser/fumarole area you could smell from a distance, very cool area though as mentioned before don’t go too close the ground is kind of soft.
Overall the high volcanic plateau was very beautiful, especially the dark contrasting lava fields. And the walking was a bit tough going with a lot of small runnels and gullies carved by water that needed to be crossed, slanted ground, slippery because of small rocks on top of a packed soil making the ball bearing effect.
There was a snowmelt puddle here -40.50745, -72.17575 with enough snow around to keep it for at least a month a legit water point, also there was a possible campsite nearby.
The best water source that we found all day was here: -40.56294, -72.14272 it seemed like a spring since it was very cold and coming directly from the ground, not from a snowmelt above because there wasn’t any snow above.
After that travering the west side of Volcán Puyehue, pretty much every gully had water, but all of them were very silty in the late afternoon due to the snowmelt above.

When we got to Water {19} [71.9/1610] the water was also full of sediment. Bailey still went for the summit of Puyehue while me and Stiina felt a bit tired and took the variant H and descended to the Refugio El Caulle, which is where we all camped for the night. No water in the ditch below the refugio but there was a very small stream in a gully below the trail about 600m before the refugio.
The refugio itself was decent, not too much trash in or around, in bad weather definitely a good place for an overnight. Dry toilet about 100m from the refugio down towards the gully, the toilet was also pretty clean.

Day 3 - Though the morning was sunny clouds started rolling in while we were getting ready. Bailey already took off around 7:00 in the morning because he had a bus to catch from Entre Lagos to Bariloche in the evening, we just said goodbye and kept snoozing.
For my morning knees the trail felt pretty steep going down at first but once they warmed up it got better, good trail overall and the water was where it’s marked.
A woman came out from El Caulle asked about our plans we told her that we are heading to Anticura and also that we already paid on the other side of volcano to Enrique, she said all good and we could pass without paying anything. We saw Tia Olivia’s place, there was a sign about bread and empanadas but we didn’t go there, we went straight to the restaurant which is at the end of variant B (section 20). We got there by 11 and the restaurant was still closed. The chef inside said they need to still prep some food and they will open in half an hour so we waited because we wanted to have lunch there.
Nice place, the young waitress working there had only her third day on the job and was quite overwhelmed and appeared a bit clueless about everything and everything understandably took her very long time especially once other people started arriving so we spent there a lot more time than we intended, I hope she is a quick learner. (Only mentioning it in case you plan to stop there for a quick lunch, to take into account that it might take a bit longer).
Overall it seemed like a popular place for all the car tourists passing by coming to and from Bariloche. The road had very decent traffic and I think getting a hitch should be relatively easy going either way. Quite a few big trucks though so the road walk wasn’t the nicest.

After the lunch we went back to the junction and across the road started the section 20 via variant A.

(Continued in Section 20)

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* ''2025-12-15 to 2025-12-18 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR (Variant D), OH4 (up and down), OH1 / Nimrod + Shai + Shmuel + Shay''

15/12
Restaurante El Caulle → Refugio El Caulle

We paid 15000 CLP per person at Santiago hut.

The initial section of the ascent was muddy and relatively flat. The final section was steeper and slippery due to heavy rain.
Several water sources were available along the way; water was collected as there was none at the refuge.
Dense fog developed near the top.
Reached the refuge, which was littered with trash.
Overnight stay at the refuge.

Distance: 8.46 km
Elevation gain: 1,077 m
Elevation loss: 35 m

16/12
Refugio El Caulle → 40.5285946°S, 72.1719636°W

Morning ascent to the summit over snow-covered volcanic terrain, with steeper slopes near the top.
At the crater, conditions included snow and strong winds with limited visibility. Decided against doing 4B option.
The descent was rapid, including sliding on snow in sections.
Continued hiking through cloud cover with multiple ascents and descents over snowfields, some with deep post-holing.
Observed colorful geothermal features and geysers.
Strong winds and cloud cover persisted at higher elevations, limiting views.

Camped near a river despite potential risk.

Distance: 18 km
Elevation gain: 1,688 m
Elevation loss: 1,515 m

17/12
40.5285946°S, 72.1719636°W → 40.4629860°S, 72.1160620°W

Started the day with rain. Wet conditions throughout, including steep ascents and descents on a faint, rarely used trail.
Water availability was limited until reaching the river.
Reached hot springs in rainy conditions and stopped for an extended rest.
Continued toward geothermal fields with notable geysers, then descended into forested terrain.
The campsite was established on the trail due to lack of better options, water availability remained limited.

Distance: 24.8 km
Elevation gain: 1,037 m
Elevation loss: 1,616 m

18/12
40.4629860°S, 72.1160620°W → 40.3861952°S, 72.0805632°W

Freshly painted black gate about 100 meters from where Variant D and RR meet, after debating we decided to cross it. and when back a bit to hector house, talked with Erwin and filled some water.

Got a ride from the main road.

Distance: 13 km
Elevation gain: 184 m
Elevation loss: 858 m

* '''2025-12-16 to 2025-12-19 / 3,5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR OH4a (turned around) OH1 OH2 / Isabelle and Sander'''
Impressive Puyehue vulcano! Made long days to squeeze trip in between bad weather but still had a lot of rain and wind on day 2. All indicated water points had water. Paid 15.000 each to a young woman who called Santiago when we showed up at the lodge at the start of the RR. We came by bus from Osorno and the bus driver helped to directly transfer to a bus to anticura so that was very smooth. At the end we walked option 2 until Pocura, hitchhiking no luck, when a bus showed up around 14h45 all the way to Rio Bueno.

Two important additions to what has been said before:

1. OH4a over the crater rim. We did it nobo with our backpacks, some steep parts but fine and quite some recent snow. Clouds and wind came in at the end of the day so we only saw the crater for some magical minutes. When reaching the northern part where the tracks go down again we bumped into quite steep snow/icefield. With strong wind and clouds we had very bad visibility and couldn’t see an alternative route. Would be a very bad place to fall so we turned around and were back at the RR after 20 o’clock and very tired. Actually on satellite images you can see the build up of snow at that point. Can imagine the size can fluctuate lots depending on weather.

2. When arriving at hectors place on our third day we followed the last km the gravel road of 19D but a large brand new locked gate with lots of barbed wire has been erected. Calling Erwin’s number as below wasn’t working neither we had enough internet for WhatsApp. Barking dogs but no one answered our ‘hola!’s. We climbed back to the RR and on the way took some water at a little stream around -40.43132, -72.11323. When following the RR to hectors house it seemed no one was there. The dogs came loudly barking, still no one came and the only way to calm the dogs was to keep walking further and we slipped through a locked gate with barbed wire and the dogs left. We continued a few km and a nice person at the next house advised us a camping spot on a communal space after a gate which you can open around -40.40713, -72.10952 and there should be clean water. We actually didn’t camp there because he underestimated it at 200 meters, but after 800 meters still didn’t see a gate and we found many other nice spots. Next day we found out it was just 100 meters further haha. Theres a beautiful river there as well!

We actually met Nimrod and friends on their way down to hectors place. Maybe they met someone who could explain the new gate?

* '''2025-11-30 to 2025-12-04 / 4.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Options 01 and 04A, Variant H / Antoine Bocquier '''

A section full of various landscapes, from Valdivian jungle to tall-tree forest, volcanic hills, lava fields, (amazing) hot spring, volcano climb & crater. Pretty happy for my first GPT section, even with mixed weather (the clouds have some charm down here).

Attractivity: 5
(Mostly the volcanic area and variety of environments)
Difficulty: 3
(Long section road, long ascent, loose rocks on inclined sections, water)

Water: overall not too tricky to find for now, even on the volcanic plateau I could find some every hour at the bottom of melting snow packs.

Snow: the trail was snow-free, just a few passages when ascending/"skiing" down the crater rim

Day 1 (11km)
Bus from Futrono (13.15, ~3k CLP), I stoped at Puerto Maqueo (few km south after Puerto Maihue). Started packrafting around 16.00, about 2hrs with light tailwind. Beautiful views.
Climbed up on the road and found a big clearing on the side (around -40.34426, -72.00433) as the night fell, in front of the cow fields. Flat and nice view.

Day 2 (30km)
In the morning the neighbours came by to check and were nice & welcoming after chatting.
Long ascent on the gravel road with a too heavily loaded backpack... I hitchhiked on 3km with some workers going to the bridge on Rio Nilahue. The landscape gets better in the next valley, I saw Nero and Hector on the road, and reached their house where Erwin opened the gate. He recorded my details in a register and asked for 5k CLP for using their trail (I don't think this was the case before). I also refilled water at the house. Navigation is easy but a bit overgrown (I cleared a bit my sticks). The forest gets much more interesting higher up, huge and scattered trees.
I didn't check the recorded water (?) spots but found ponds in a small canyon at -40.48596, -72.14169 (I wouldn't rely on it later in the season). Very good camping spots at the end of the tree line.

Day 3 (11km)
Short day going to the hot spring on option 1. Combined with a nice and varied route, I'd say it's a must! The green valley with its river is surprising after the barren land (including an exciting geothermal area). The hot spring was such as treat after the rainy misty day!

Day 4 (20km)
Hot spring to Puyehue crater top (01-RR-04A). Best day, mostly sunny with insane views and funny up-down maze. It felt a bit like Iceland and Lappland in places. I stayed a bit more east than 01, staying high up and following ridges down to the new lava field (black). The sun is quite burning up there, even with sunscreen. Reached the bottom of the volcano, refilled water at melting snowpack and decided to climb it and tent on top (04 option / summit), despite the clouds, as the weather in the morning may clear up. Steep 400m elevation climb, strenuous when the ground is super loose with small gravel... The rocky section is faster to climb at some point. I found a flat ground 15m from the summit, slightly protected by rocks, with moderate winds.

Day 5 (17km)
Still in the clouds in the morning... But on my way down on the ridge, it opened up for some seconds and the view was magical with sun spots flowing across the huge crater filled with snow. Worth the climb and patience! I went down a bit earlier than the track (not ascending again around ~2100m) and it was ok to catch up the track. Variant H, perfect, less elevation.
All the way down to Anticura, I stayed at Lodging $$$ (camping 18k CLP, nice cabanas 70k CLP (same price for 1 or 2, can accommodate up to 6). Restaurant was good and not too expensive (14-18k CLP for fish or meat main).

* '''2025-11-19 to 2025-11-22 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Options D and E / Daniel.s'''

Coming from GPT 18 I did all my food shopping in Curriñe and put in on a calm Lago Maihue at S 40° 15.151', W 072° 00.692'.

I crossed the lake to paddle the western shoreline and camped at S 40° 19.810', W 072° 00.785'. There was a storm forecast for the night and I found a disused MR just behind the beach to "fasten down the hatches". It also connects by foot to the RP hiking section.

Day 2 I prepared for a long and tedious road hike, but got a lift to Bridge, Gate {19} [15.6/319] (Locked Gate Fundo Carren, Rio Chilcoco) very soon, and only 2 minutes later another lift all the way to Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue).

ATTENTION!!! THE ROAD SECTION BETWEEN THE TWO POINTS IS ONE BIG CONSTRUCTION SITE FOR THE NEXT 3 YEARS! So camping at Bridge {19} [37.3/296] (Rio Nilahue) like some did before is impossible as of now.

Since I arrived early I started hiking uphill said hello to Hector (he did not open the path through his land yet) and hiked all the way to Water ? {19} [53.7/1344] where I camped.
!!! BOTH WATER SOURCES CARRY VERY LITTLE WATER ALREADY AND ALL SNOW IS GONE UNTIL YOU REACH THE TREELINE!!!

DAY 3 I hiked across the plateau, very little snow (trail as in GPS is virtually snow free) except for the section along the crater, which was still mostly covered. After Pass {19} [69.9/1764] there's very little snow again. The last water before the refugio is as indicated. I continued from the refugio down to fill my water at Water {19} [76.1/844] and camped shortly after on the first flat spot I found.

Day 4 it took only one hour to reach the main road at Lican and I was lucky enough that 10 minutes later the bus to entre Lagos passed by (2k clp, weekdays ~7:30, Saturday and Sunday ~9:00 am)

* '''2025-01-18 to 2025-01-120 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''.

- To get to llifen from Puerto fuey will take half a day at least.

- Lake Maihue was calm even though I started at 11

- Road walking after the lake is boring may better hitchike.

- Near the bridge over the river Nilahue is good camping and fishing spot.

- There is another campspot with water from river halfway up to Neri and hector

- The gate from Neri house was closed but you can yell or call Erwin bustos : +56973064535. He lives with them now

- First part from Neri's house is overgrown after that you enter a beautiful old growth forest with huge trees

- Hot springs are nice! Plus is usefull for water. If you are tired: around ,4 km before the hot springs you can camp with water . So you don't have to Cary your backpack to the hot springs .

* Geysers are beautiful just watch out where you step and the vulcanic landscape is beautiful

* Water sources differ per month. The orange ones (the not sure ones) were dry but I found other water sources. And there was still plenty of snow 19th of January.

* You need a good hat and long sleeves against the sun. I covered my whole body but I burned my hands badly.

* The refugio has no water so fill up before if you plan to camp there

- You can summit the Vulcano next morning without your gear.

- Second water source on the way down did not have water

- If you want to skip section 20 you have to hitchike. There is only a bus in the morning

==Season 2024/25==

31-MAR-2025 to 06-APR-2025 / 7 days / hiking / NOBO / RR, Variant B / Ben, Stephanie

Route from Licán to Rupameica Bajo on Lago Maihue and then to Caicayén across the spectacular Volcán Puyehue, lava flows, geysers

Several people have cabanas on offer in Caicayen; just walk the highway and you will see the signs

* '''2025-03-10 to 2025-03-16 / 6 Days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + 2A / Tim + Magdalena'''

In an effort to do GPT19 without all the road walking we ascended from the south on the RR and chose option 2A to descend to Parque Futangue Sector Riñinahue. TLDR: DO NOT DO THIS, check Natalie+Tomás reports for much better alternatives with little roadwalking.

It's arduous, monotonous, VERY slow climbing over multiple km's of boulder field with crumbling, loose rocks. We both had a few very close calls with rocks crumbling away under us, moss sliding off the boulders and even huge boulders tipping away under our feet. We expected the 6km (as the crow flies) to take us maybe 5 hours of walking. We actually needed around 15 hours over two days. (Our speed was 200-500 Meter/hour according to our GPS) Luckily we had just enough food. You might think surely there's some parts with gravel or sand making for faster walking? But no, absolutely not. All water, sand and gravel is disappearing between the boulders. The water resurfaces for a while at 1040m of elevation, but then the basin is immediately covered by 2-3m high bushes. In the dry parts, we had to make some long detours to get water.

Once on the MR in Futangue there's a very well fenced off bridge at S 40.41942°, W 072.25140°. The fence is meant to keep guests inside the main area of the park, only guided tours go further.
We climbed over the 3m high fence. It would be impossible to get your backpack over alone and if they lock it a bit more tightly it would be completely impossible. I don't think the river in the canyon below is fordable.

The option to descend to Futangue will be removed in future GPT track files as I understand it.

Much more enjoyable and safer connections to the west of Puyehue are possible, as described by Natalie + Tomás. We also met a guided group on horses going over a pass to the west, probably the same way as them.

*'''' 2025-03-13 to 2025-03-16 / 4 days / Hiking/ NOBO / RR, 02A, 02C, 01 / Peggy

Having already completed this section in SOBO some time ago, I will just point out a few important things.

At Lican, it is possible to eat at señora Olivia’s place (on the main road, house with a sign saying “pan amasado, empanada, hospedaje”) and to stay overnight for 20k.

At the start of the trail, Santiago asked me for 10k (for the maintenance of the path leading to the refuge and for the refuge itself) and my personal information (name, surname, and passport number). He also asked me to send him a message via WhatsApp once I had reached the other side.

I camped a little above the water source at km 71.8. Incredible view of Tronador and the Antillanca, Casablanca, Puntiagudo, and Osorno volcanoes. Best avoided in case of wind (be careful, the wind can pick up during the night…).

I found water here (40.562969S, 072.142607W), but it wasn’t there less than a month before (rain and snow from the past week).

I highly recommend option 02A along the ridges. It is magnificent, with exceptional views. No navigation issues, even though everything is in BB and almost without footprints (this option is rarely taken). Some steep climbs and/or descents at the beginning and end. I would recommend doing it in SOBO for the views, as you walk towards the volcano, but in NOBO, as I did, it also works as long as you stop often and turn around!

For the hot springs, the exact point is here: 40.46720S, 72.13322W. Often crowded on weekends (people arriving on horseback). A bit dirty near the springs 😢 (empty alcohol bottles). But the pool is worth it!

On the way back down to the RR, before reaching Neri and Hector’s place (km 45.4), I found water here (40.435404S, 072.114426W) and here (40.434905S, 072.114245W). I camped nearby, hidden in the forest.

The entire section through the forest is very beautiful, enchanting.

I was preparing to descend to join section 18 via the RR, hoping to hitch a ride. But seeing many trucks coming down from the other side, I finally asked one of them for a ride and made my way down with several trucks/cars and some walking until Llifen, then Maihue. Not sure it was the best option.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-21 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR +OH 02 / chloe and Mathieu
We took the bus from Osorno to termas de Puyehue at 3PM. From there we hitchhiked to the camping Catrue (18000 for one tent).
Day 1 : we walked along the road until the Santiago's property where we had to pay 15000 per person. Then we started walking in the valdivian forest, until the refugio where there wasn’t water. We met Sophie and Gaspar and decided to walk together. Water at every points indicated on Locus because there was patchs of snow. We camped closed to the water point S 40° 34.596', W 072° 08.064'
We decided to climb the volcano and we didn’t follow exactly the OH 04A but we prefered to take the steepless route on the right. Amazing wiew at the top, no difficulty to climb.
Day 2 : we followed the RR, and no water until the Hector and Neri's property so you have to be careful and carry lot of water. We slept there and for 5000 per personn we could have water and use, a hot shower and use his stove to cook.
Day 3 : RR and option 02 up to Rininahue. Gravel road then paved road, quite boring. There we hitchhiked up to Futrono where we took a bus to Valdivia. Bus every hours.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-22 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH D / Dorota'''

Day 1: I took a bus at 2 p.m. in Llifen to Rupumeica Bajo. The first day I started at 4 p.m so it was short. I spent the night at about km 24 of RR near the river (-40.35916, -71.98513). After camp 31.4, there is no possibility to put up a tent. There was a bus at 8.30 going down from Rupumeica.

Day 2: It was a little boring, but I decided not to hitchhike. I put up a tent at km 1.5 of variant D but without water. At the beginning of variant D, there is a gate where there is information about cámaras.

Day 3: I continued variant D and at km 3.5 of variant D, where you have three options, I continued straight. It was a really good way through the forest. At point -40.47719, I found something like a refugio and inside were bottles with water. I was lucky because at point 53.5 and 53.7 there was no water. Night at the plateau at km 68 with water from snow. A little windy but not too much.

Day 4: The water was bad, so unfortunately I did not climb the volcano. I reached point 81.4 km at 1 p.m so a day was very short.

*'''2025-02-19 to 2025-02-24 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / 02, RR, D, 01, 04A, 04B / Peggy

I wanted to start with the 02A, but upon arriving, I realized I was entering the Futangue park (15k entrance fee) where I was not allowed to camp or go any further. Maybe I should have lied, but with a tortoise-like backpack, it felt complicated to say I was just out for a day hike!

So, I took the 02, which is a PR (public route) up to Venados.

Until the D variant, there are 3 water points: 40.237656S, 072.051233W (hole in a pipe), 40.239298S, 072.054975W (both are close to each other), and 40.244853S, 072.066878W with the possibility of camping (check if the water is easily accessible?).

On the 01, up to the hot springs, there’s water at a spot used as a campsite with access to the river and a campfire (40.239298S, 072.106674W).

The hot springs, as mentioned before, are located about 500m before the point on the map. There should be several spots. I personally found a source of boiling water and lay down in the warm river, alternating between the scalding hot and lukewarm, surrounded by plants, flowers, and bumblebees! :)

The 01 that continues from the hot springs along the ridge is definitely worth it. I really liked it.

Throughout this section, navigation is very straightforward, even in BB (bush bashing).

I had planned to climb the Peyehue volcano and do a crater loop the next day, but with the weather forecast predicting bad conditions, I decided to take the 04A with my big backpack to avoid having to go back down. It was an intense climb, tortoise-style! But the splendid view of the crater made the difficult ascent worth it. I descended a bit before the track of the 04A descent, cutting across to the RR.

There’s water at the point marked on the map at km 71.8, and it’s possible to camp there, though the ground is very soft and wet. I preferred to head to the El Caulle refuge, where I met an Israeli and an Englishwoman. It’s a sheltered place with lots of wood around for a fire, either outside or inside in the stove. There are also dry toilets. For water, it might be a good idea to bring some from the last water point in SOBO at km 71.8, but there’s also a small "estero" behind the dry toilets, down in the ravine (be careful on the descent and ascent!).

The next day, I woke up early to climb the volcano via the 04B, but about 200m from the crater, I had to give up due to the intense wind.

The weather turned to rain and strong winds, so I stayed another night at the refuge with my new friends.

Then, having caught a cold from my adventure on the volcano in the wind and a "walk" down to get water at km 71.8 (!) I stayed alone for another day and night, which gave me the chance to see and understand the sign on one of the windows: "estero" with an arrow, and I went to that water source!

'''2025-Feb-05 to 2025-Feb-10 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1 & 2 / Chris & Diana
'''
Wikiexplora deleted our log, as two were editing the same section parallel which it cant handle. Therefore a bit more streamlined next try...

Bus via Lago Ranco to Riñanahue. Schedule: facebook.com/profile.php?id=100087840261554
Camped at lovely calm site for 7kCLP pp
maps.app.goo.gl/b1rKAqLmmXtf6gQm8, +56 9 7511 3562

There is a super nice supermarked with most one could wish for incl. local cheese.

Bus to Pichico at approx 12:00 (apparently started in Rio Bueno?).
Otherwise Uber Riñinahue:
+56920616903
+56973752096
+56998506088

Started our hike at los vernados, tried to avoid hectors property but due to lack of water had to return. Everyone super lovely & nice. Shower & camping for 15kCLP total. The dogs arent dangerous (two young ones chained, one old one Pelao just barks and can barely walk). All of em cuties once you are unlocked as an amigo by Erwin.
Erwin: +56973064535
Hectors son hector parra raddatz: +56 9 9390 0644
Avoiding could be: camp at last good spot at [S 40.408118 W 072.111271] with water. Take option that crosses back to RR, mid way you cross another stream, thats the last for a while.
Didnt check both water ? Marks.
First water after that is [S 40.491149 W 072.157324] shortly before the crossing to the hotsprings (fed by snowfield).
In between at [S 40.487550 W 072.148084] 4 condors and an eagle chilling. Many feathers there suggest they like chilling there, so approaching this spot carefully could yield nice pictures.

At hot spring there is on the right hand side of the valley close to/in the riverbed 3 holes with cold freshwater.

Entel coverage at the highest "peak" before descending to the plateau and the final traverse along the volcan, where option [03d] splits off, therefore at marking gpt19-03d end.

Until first water ? mark at the volcano there is only occasionally some driplets from snowfields. Second water ? Mark didnt yield water for us.

After the "final" water mark before the refugio there is one more stream, a bit closer. At the refugio itself we didnt see water, chilenos said there is some a bit up, inside the "valley"-ish crevasse. We didnt check.

On descend first water mark had water, second didnt. In the valley there is some again.
The camping ground at the end of the trail looks really good, might be nice for a night.
Hitchhiking a bit difficult because cars are plenty and fast but managed after half an hour straight to Osorno.

Wonderful diverse section with many great highlights but requires a bit water planning and carrying liters over long distances. 10/10 recommend!

Volcano warnings: sernageomin.cl

Forrest fire warnings: conaf.cl/incendios/situacion-actual-y-pronostico-de-incendios/

* '''2025-02-02 to 2025-02-05 / 3 days / Packrafting & Hiking / SOBO / RP, RR, Option D, Option E, RR , Option 1, RR, Option 4 (Puyehue ascent), RR / Lucie and Thomas '''

Transportation:
On Sunday we took the bus at 1:15pm from Futrono to Rupumeica (only other bus at 8pm). No bus on Sunday to Rininahue.
Week days:
Futrono-Rupumeica at 1:15pm, 4:45pm, 5:45pm, 7pm y Futrono-Rininahue at 12:30pm, 4:10pm, 6:30pm.
Saturday:
Futrono-Rupumeica: 1:15pm, 4:45pm, 5:45pm.
Futrono-Rininahue: 12:30pm.

Afternoon day 1:
From Rupumeica bajo, a boat was supposed to leave at 3:45pm to Carran (Melipue on OSM) or 3:10pm from Maqueo but we didn't see it. We had planned anyway to packraft lago Maihue following the second part of RP which we did as weather conditions were great. We went into the water at -40,31745, -71,99077 (beach) until Carran.
Hiked following the RP until it meets RR at the road. During this part, we were kindly reminded that the area was private by the owner (the path itself seemed okay).
Hitchhicked until bridge over Nilahue where we filled up water. Important: Nilahue is the last water until the volcanic plateau at this period.
Camped at -40,40128, -72,09428 (hidden from the road but no view and no water).

Day 2:
RR with option D & E to avoid the barrier and dogs. Entering the park we found this phone contact: +56 963659730 but didn't get any answer. Didn't see anyone.
First water of the day at -40,49031, -72,16550 (small, melting snow). The second and proper one (river) started at -40,48767, -72,17619.
Continued on RR until taking option 1 to the hot springs which are definitely worth the extra miles !

Day 3:
We followed the east part of option 1 (very scenic) until reaching RR which we followed until Puyehue summit ascent. We slept next to Refugio El Caulle which does not have water indeed. Water can be found at -40,61123 -72,14355 (~40min back and forth from the refuge) if you forget to fill before like us.
Wonderfull views all along the day !

Day 4 morning :
Way down to 215 following RR, where we did not managed to hitchhike (if you need a taxi you can call Juvenal from Entre Lagos +56 931078640)

'''2025-Jan-24 to 2025-Jan-27 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, option 1 / Nimrod & Tamar
'''

Snow - a few patches but was doable for us without spikes.
Water -
-water? [53.7/1344] was a small dirty pond. A few hundred meters after this waypoint there is currently a lot of water from snow melt.
-on the way to hot spring on option 01 there is currently a lot of water.
-after the hot spring in option 1, last water was at (-40.54266, -72.16335). Next water currently at (-40.59190, -72.13565).

Random Cool things along the way-
-Chaura berries- were flourishing! Delicious!! Different taste for each bush
-condor- saw one up close before the pass near the volcan. he sat on the ground also! Such a huge creature! Maybe has a nest there.
-geyser- look for the waves in the water forming from boiling.

Transportation:
We skipped from the end of section 10. Took a few buses: Gulalli-Los Angeles-Valdivia-Futrono-Rupameica Bajo.
Valdivia to Futrono there is a bus approx once an hour.
From Futrono to Rupameica Bajo we took a bus at 16:40.
The final stop is at waypoint X [13.3/144].
We camped on the beach at approx ( -40.31745, -71.99078). We were alone on the beach although it was weekend.

In details:
1st day:
The MR was nice and at parts was not maintained and was more like a trail until approx km 18. After that it becomes a maintained road and for us boring.
We hitchhiked with the first vehicle we saw and he took us to (-40.38622, -72.08066).
We hiked to refuge [45.4/537] and camped there. We paid 5000 clp each and wrote our details.
Neri kindly offered to use their shower.

2nd day:
The trail head from the refuge is overgrown and we used the GPS to find and follow the first 100 meters. Later it becomes better but the whole trail is an overgrown MR, which made it a beautiful hike. There were a few fallen trees which blocked the trail but it wasn't hard to find the trail around them.
We checked both water points at km 53. There were small dirty ponds and we collected water from [53.7/1334]. We regretted doing it because a few hundred meters later there are tons of small streams from melting snow, staring at ( -40.48990, -72.15184).
Geyser at ( -40.49555, -72.16049) was really nice.

We took option 01 to the hot springs. The CC/TL was clear and easy.
The hot RIVER starts 500 meters before the waypoint. We checked the waypoint but the water was less warm then upstream, so we camped upstream and had warm night bath.
The temperature was perfect for us.

3rd day:
We took another bath in the morning and started hiking late.
There was rain forecast so we stopped early and camped at (-40.325713',-072.097432'). There was a small water stream from melting snow.
There was also another "geyser" on a hill close to where we camped.
The night was horrible! It was very windy and the sand didn't hold the tent pegs. Our tent almost broke from the wind in the middle of the night so we had to put big rocks on the pegs. Finally the wind died and we and our tent survived :)

4th day:
Woke up to a cloudy day so we understood we are not going to climb the volcano.
We connected back to the RR.
On the RR there were sometimes poles marking the trail but there was no trail to follow. There were some snow patches on the route that slowed us down but were not hard to cross.
There was only snow but no water at water waypoints at km 68.6 and 69.2.
We collected water at (-40.59190, -72.13565).
There was water at the waypoint at 71.8 as well. Approximately after this waypoint there are patches of grass which make the trail more visible and easy to hike.
We finished late so we decided to stay in Lican. Cabaña for 2 cost us 40000 clp. We had a burger for 2500 CLP.
Took a bus in the morning to Osorno at 7:30- the host helped us with calling the bus in advance so it will know to stop (there's only one bus a day).

The whole area is magical! As if witches live under the ground and boil thier potions, while above the souls of ice roam between the lava fields.

* ''' 2025-JAN-11 > 13 / 3 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 19-01 > 19-02C > 19-02A > RR > 19-04A > 19-04B > 19-04 > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT14+GPT15+GPT16+GPT17+GPT18+GPT19
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : rare ou absente
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 4/5
| Danger : manque d'eau

Route et gravel road en plein soleil. Comme l'altitude est faible il fait très chaud. J'ai réussi à faire de l'auto-stop sur 10km seulement. Il y a beaucoup de taons malheureusement. Le soir je n'ai pas trouvé d'eau au début de la 19-D alors je suis allé au km 45,4 pour avoir de l'eau et camper. Ca m'a couté 5000CLP. Je déconseille le camping ici car il n'y a aucun service. Le lendemain montée au plateau. Le sentier n'est pas toujours en bon état mais ça se fait bien. Au plateau, la 19-01 est super et il y a plein d'eau. Sur la 19-02C il y avait aussi de l'eau car la neige fond. J'ai campé dans un petit cratère sur la 19-02A au point 40.520467° S 72.208066° W car il y avait un lac. J'ai bien fait de m'arrêter car un brouillard épais est arrivé quand j'ai monté ma tente à 17h30, et 1h plus tard il pleuvait. Ma première pluie depuis mon départ de Santiago il y a 47 jours. Le sentier de crête est vraiment magnifique et facile car le sol est très compact. Dernier jour, aucun taon. Il n'y a pas d'eau et je rempli ma bouteille de neige. Par chance il y a des nuages et il fait frais. La fin de la montée du volcan et le tour du cratère sont plutôt difficile car le sable est mou et la progressisn est lente. La rando est magnifique. La descente du volcan se fait bien. Ski sur la premiere partie, puis chemin très érodé après le refuge El Caulle. Je suis allé à Osorno en auto-stop. Les horaires Osorno<->Anticura sur google sont faux.
JAN-14>JAN-15 : Repos Osorno
J'ai commandé sur Amazon un filtre pour ma gourde, des pointes pour mes bâtons et des chaussures (taille 47) car introuvable en magasin. J'ai écrit l'adresse de la poste comme étant mon adresse. Mes 3 colis sont en dépôt 5 jours ouvrés dans une agence Chilexpress dans le centre ville. J'ai bien tout reçu.

*'''2025-JAN-12 to 2025-JAN-15 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH (Var. 03 + 03-A) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

The stage begins mostly along a road, which had relatively heavy traffic on Sunday evening. Around Lake Maihue, there is a fence, but there are gaps with paths leading to the beach. Swimming in the lake was very pleasant. The water was warmer than we expected.

On the first evening, we camped at the ford over Rio Hueinahue [10.9/116] at coordinates -40.31647, -71.97186. There is a nice abandoned campsite here with a dry toilet, tables, and several fire pits. The ford [10.9/116] we crossed in the morning is long, but the current isn’t strong, and the water isn’t deep. After the ford, we didn’t follow the trackfiles but instead took the trail directly west (there’s a marked path in OpenStreetMap data), which turned out to be easy and without any issues, except for a gate at the connection to the road.

We considered taking Variant C but decided to stay on the RR and didn’t regret it. Passing through wild forests along a deeply cut path forming tunnels with leafy ceilings was worth the extra elevation gain. The rest of the route to Los Venados (km 39) is uneventful, and the trail moves quickly.

At kilometer 39.1, we chose Variant 03. Along the way, there are several gates, some for cattle but primarily marking the boundary of the private nature reserve Centrafuerte. The most prominent gate is at coordinates -40.39993, -72.08501, and it should be there a phone number to call for access to the reserve. We missed the number, climbed over the gate, and met the reserve staff later. The entry fee is 12,000 CLP per person, and entry is limited to 20 people per day. We had no issues with the limit, but in peak summer (February), it’s said to fill up quickly.

The trail is comfortable and well-maintained. It passes through a dead forest where all the trees dried out due to the 2011 eruption and the subsequent pyroclastic flow. The MR doesn’t follow the track files toward the end and ends at coordinates -40.510827, -72.118630, where there’s a shelter with tables, seating, toilets, and an information board with a satellite map of the area. Close to this spot are the hot springs (-40.510952, -72.123191)—bathing is directly in the stream, with a very pleasant water temperature. There’s also a simple shelter for changing clothes.

From the hot springs, we continued along the ridge between streams, and after a slightly wild and steep climb, we joined OH 03-A, which we followed to the connection with the RR.

The first flowing water after crossing the volcanic plain was at coordinates -40.59190, -72.13565.

The Refugio [73.8/1378] is in good condition—clean and well-maintained, with a stream running below it.

The final descent passes through beautiful Valdivian rainforests.

From the end of the stage, we hitchhiked to resupply in Entre Lagos. At the edge of the town, there’s a large supermarket called Iguazu. Hitchhiking required patience, but in the end, it wasn’t a problem.

* '''2025-01-05 to 2025-01-0 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO/ Completely new option, RR / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Day one: Lago Ranco to under ridge - 17km

Through OSM, satellite and some records on Wikiloc, we were convinced an approach to Puyehue from the west existed. It looked appealing as it had a better "road to hike ratio", and extended the already scenic area. And of course a reason to paddle to Lago Ranco to resupply with better food (see separate Packraft post). Unfortunately, the total length of road walking is not shortened that much if you do not find a ride or order a taxi. The first 17 km is PR and MR. Taxis are not expensive in Chile so we arranged a pickup at our accommodation in Lago Ranco with Don Christian (Whatsapp at +56 9 5703 5726). He arrived on time and drove us to -40.38520, -72.44823, where a locked gate stopped us three km from our original goal. He asked for 17mil but we paid him 20mil even though it was in the end just 15 km (the price was technically 1000 per km). We met nobody going up and are unsure about access arrangement, the huge equestrian property after the gate seemed to belong to a wealthy landowner. Perhaps you can find out how to request permission if it becomes a problem. The first roughly 7 km is a not a very nice MR, it has been recently "improved" (we met a nice herd of luxury horses though). Five km in, a very solid gate screaming "money" is being built - it might create an obstacle in the future, but it should be possible to climb over it or go around. After 7 km, the road stops being passable by car. For hikers, it is actually a well passable but eroded and somewhat overgrown logging road made of logs, it has a feeling of a trail. The uphill was a struggle. We bought too much food, were lugging our packraft, and together with insects (tabaños and some new biting flies) and heat, we had to take many breaks. The bugs got so bad that we even built a tent for lunch. At -40.38520, -72.44823, there is an old refuge that would protect you from elements, which probably used to be the logging operation. Our first water was at -40.41466, -72.34625. The trail is being used, there were recentish cut marks and very fresh footprints. Also the place seems popular with beer drinking people as there was sadly a number of beer cans along the otherwise very pretty route. About here: -40.41708, -72.32830 you leave the old road and join a trail along the ridge, which is even prettier. There was quite a stream here: -40.43144, -72.30571 and from then on, water was plentiful. However, there are still large snowfields, so maybe it dries out towards the end of summer. Shortly after the stream we passed a four-tent group of Chileans at a perfect camping spot: -40.43223, -72.30665, who made the fresh footprints (so probably access is somewhar permissive). We did not speak to them and camped at -40.43400, -72.30895, which is even more sheltered.

Day two: Under ridge to thermas - 19km

Setting off at 9:30, we followed the faint trail marked with cairns to a pass over the ridge. The other side of the ridge was to a big extent under snow and we sometimes had to make detours to find side crossings over the many streams, so our progress was slower than expected. If one day our tracks get used, note that we were avoiding snow bridges. The rock here is different from later so some water should last until end of the season. Tabaños were again quite annoying. Between the snow, the trail was largely visible. After reaching a lowpoint slightly under 1300m, we started to climb, soon walking almost exclusively on snow. On such a hot day and with the reflection, being on snow feels like in an oven. Scenery kept being exceptionally pretty (and we have walked most of the GPT). We reached a ridge where 02A starts going down at around six. There was less snow here and we got faster. With less snow, you might want to take some water before you get over 1500m. We reached 02C around eight. Natalie was not as highly motivated by the evening walk to the termas and wanted to save her energy. So, I gave her our tent and set off for them. She ended up doing the ridge of 02a and the crater circuit the next day, see below, “Nat's notes”. It took me two hours to the hot springs after we split. You do not want to cut for the turnoff and in general want to keep a bit east from 02C to keep the high ground for the first two kilometres. Then follow the trackfiles. When going up the last ridge, you can veer left and aim through a lateral ridge for altitude 1550m and save some elevation, it is quite doable. You can then shortcut the way to the actual position of the thermas (see Tobias) down a miniridge that has some trees on it. Just keep to the trees (there are grass passages in between) and it is doable. Thermas are like Volcan Chillan on GPT8 - a hot stream with a pool, perfect temperature, a bliss. I arrived shortly before ten without needing to use a headlamp.

Day three: Thermas to refugio - 25km

I followed 01 to the OSM mark called "geyser" which is actually just a series of big loud impressive fumaroles. Above the thermas, there are few more smaller hotspring on the left, but not useful for anything. About one km after the thermas, there is steam on the left - fumaroles and sulphur, you will see it a few more times but still pretty. Avoided the last hill through here: -40.49220, -72.16946, but it probably does not pay the saved 40m of elevation. OSM route better than RR around the fumaroles (ground around them unstable). Again walking in an oven over the snow, skirting the new lava is pretty (though do not expect many views), just keep in mind it is unstable and ideally keep some distance (5-10m), I saw a significant rockfall from it that could kill you if you were in the wrong time at the wrong place. It is slow going. There is one more fumarole next to the lava flow, go around from the right despite the footsteps you might see there. Was happy to see Natalie's footprints once 01 connected, knowing she was hours ahead thanks to inReach. Took 04A, as others said: aim for the top, contour lines are misleading and traversing does not make sense plus you would lose out on the views. Saw Natalie on top of the highest point, but she did not hear me. Only then I realized there is a gap in the trackfiles and the mountain cannot (cliffs) be climbed from this side. Going down on 04A was indeed skiing (the snowfield is mapped as glacier, but if it is glacier, I could not see any crevasses, which might not have been the most responsible off me). Variant H is a trail. Met Natalie at refugio where in the evening water was still flowing, but in the morning it had stopped.

Day four - Refugio to primary road - 8 km

Easy going down, surprisingly little tabanos, second water not existent, met nobody down, so paid nothing, hitched an empty tour bus to Entre Lagos to ressuply almost immediately.

Nats Notes: Ridge of 02A & Rim circuit

The following morning I made an easy CC to the ridge on 02A. The snow was rock hard in the morning (7:30am, around 9 am the snow became "crunch-able" - that being a warm and sunny day). So, a warning to early birds. Getting up the ridge was easy thanks to the consolidated pumice. Beautiful views of the snowy plateau and the volcanoes to the south. For the first time I felt like I could gallop along the ridge because the terrain was so easy. There are ups and downs but they are less in number and larger in scale.
Along 02A, after coming off the ridge there was some surprise fumaroles and a large crater (not on RR but very close). Picture perfect with Puyehue behind it. The route takes you along a sulphur like rim that felt uncomfortably active, warm and hollow.
To get to the Crater circuit I wanted to gain the rim further north of 04A to save time. So after 02A ridge I Cc'd which at first was continuous with 02A and the RR. Left the RR around here -40.55454, -72.14794 but overall I think it would have been easier to stay on the RR for longer. Found my first water source @ -40.56451, -72.12754 . It is underneath the crater like depression north of the 04A accent route, very "crunchy", lots of sand/grit.
I began my ascent to a low point on the ridge north of 04A and east of the crater like depression besides it. I did not like the final 200+ meters. I was expecting soft ground but instead got something just slightly better than "kitty-litter" (the term for small grit on slab/hard ground). Sometimes the ground was soft. There was a snow slope but the snow was harder than I would have liked, glad I did not have to go down it. At the top, views were fantastic as expected. It was windy but not "body pushing" wind. Looking back I was glad to have bypassed 04A. The circuit posed few issues, there were some snow slopes, but soft enough for kicking. I would not recommend doing this without micro spikes if the snow is NOT soft (ie early morning). If one wants a super easy way up to the rim, or needs and emergency escape, the slopes up the NE of the crater are very easy, starting around here (40.57497, -72.10480). I had to laugh at myself from time to time. I felt a bit out of place with a lifejacket and couple of paddles sticking out of my bag...
The last push for the true summit had some snow on easy/mod slopes. Once again I wouldn't recommend it if the snow was not soft. There was a beautiful camp spot (no water but snow) halfway up this last push (-40.59310, -72.11426).
Although very happy to have reached the final summit, my happiness strangely turned a little sad. As I marveled at the landscape that has become my friend over the last three years, I realized this was probably the last time I would see it at this magnitude. So much time has been spent with Tomáš investigating and executing ways up and down these mountains, it seems crazy that I may never look upon them again. So, that was a weird thought but overall it was very beautiful. I waited over an hour on top, I thought Tomáš was planning on going to this peak but when I found out he was on the other peak I made my way down to the cute camping spot at the Refugio, stopping to drink some water from a creek along the way (likely not running in the morning). The way down from the regular summit is easy and there is basically a path that sees regular traffic. I would recommend taking this way if you do not like climbing steep slopes, rather than the other alternatives.

* '''2024-12-02 to 2025-01-03 / 2 days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ Lago Maihue (sort of 07), New: Rio Calcurrupe, Lago Ralco, / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Day one: The lake and river, 27 km

We started paddling at 8am with little waves and wind, then got to the end of the lake at 11. The river is not hard. It has a few rapids that are maybe 1+, but we managed. It has a lot of water, so wood is not much of an issue. The valley is very pretty. It flows nicely, with a lunch in the middle, it took us 4 hours to get down. We took out at Puerto Llifén around 5, traversing somewhat wavy Lago Ralco for a bit. There were some people on a quite and nice small beach. We were lucky to catch a bus to town. It has two fruit and vegetable shops and looked decent for ressuply (also good Entel internet). We went to Anita's rstaurant and after finishing eating, we asked for a driver as it was late and we wanted an early start the next day. She went nextdoor and came with an older gentleman who drove us 4 km for 4000 CLP to -40.23159, -72.26019, about one km from river end. Near the road end are some nice camping spots. There were some fishermen but nobody cared that we built our tent.

Day 2: Lake Ranco, 22 km

We woke up at 4:30 to use the calm morning hours. Shortly after dawn we were on the water and already had some waves and some low-lying clouds. The sunrise was beautiful (maybe the prettiest ever for Tomáš, who, being an owl, has not seen many sunrises in his life). Clouds moved in and the water calmed down (a local later confirmed this is the usual pattern, so probably the lake tends to be calm before noon). Went east of Llahuapi island, paddled two more km to mainland's peninsula. With lake being very calm, we went straight for Piedra del diablo, which we reached after three hours. The rock is well worth the visit. After a short rest, we paddled around the corner (2km) to town Lago Ranco, arriving at 12:40, giving us a half-day of rest and a good base for re-supply. Nat highly recommends the nut/bulk store just north of Conception street (Mr Manny; -40.3213804, -72.4739571). It is attached to a fabric store and likely looks closed. Just walk inside the fabric store and ask the friendly owner you'd like to buy some frutos secos. The nuts and dried fruit were of surprisingly good quality.

Overall, this is an attractive variant that can be recommended instead of RP for packrafters. Lago Ranco (good Entel internet) is an ok ressuply point with slightly pricy accomodation, but we negotiated a room for 50,000 CLP.

* '''25-01-01 - 25-01-03 / 3 days / SOBO / RP, RR, variants D+E, OH1,a, OH4a,b / Volker'''

Day 0: I combined gpt 17+18+19. The day after my arrival in Currine, down from the 18, was a little bit rainy with better forecast for the next, but mainly for the days to follow. So I didn‘t hurry up and after resupply in Currine just took the boat over Laguna Maihue. There is a confusion with the names. The „port“ (the spot where the boat is leaving) close to Maihue (2,5km) is not called Puerto Maihue, but Maqueo. The boat goes to Rupumeica (Ru) and Carran (Ca), the route from Carran to join the RR is included only in the Packraft files. Time table for the boat for SOBO hiking: Mo, Th, Fr: from Maqueo either to Ru or Ca or both: 8.00 a.m. and 3.10. p.m., Sa+Su: 3.10. p.m., Tu+We no service. The crew on the boat told me, you find lodges in Ru and Ca if you ask, but I camped in Ca on the beach, very nice!
Day 1: On a cool morning very easy MR walking on RP. The bridge at 15,6/31 is no longer maintained, the road bypasses it, easy access to water 100m from the junction with RR. The indicated camp at the lake at 35,4 may be lost, there is a new sign saying, that one can buy land around the lake. At Los Venados I met Clara, who also walked the 19 SOBO, so we did this section together. We took variant D to avoid a barbed wire fence and dogs, then E to rejoin the RR. No water at the indicated spots at 53,5, only from snow-patches. Camp at S 40.481514° W 72.137545°
Day 2: Very easy walking, 25% on snow, now enough water. The volcanic chimney at 56,1 is very impressive and the hot spring on OH1 (500m before the indicated spot) a place to be. Highly recommended!
Day 3: Blue sky, very, very scenic all the day long! We took OH01a to rejoin RR. The whole day the trail was mostly covered by snow (75%), so it was CC walking with easy navigation. Very few water, just flushy snow. Rather difficult to find a camp spot not covered by snow, flat and not too exposed to the wind. One at S 40.572582° W 72.135206° met at least the first 2 conditions. To secure your tent you will find some (but few) heavier rocks on the slope of Volcan Puyehue.
Day 4: Steep CC ascent on Volcan Puyehue, on OH4a. if you stay 200m to the right of the indicated way, it‘s less steep and using the rocks in the upper part makes the ascent less physical. At the crater at 8.45 a.m. We did the tour around the crater (OH4b, highly recommended!) and arrived on the southern summit at noon (mostly on gravel, some parts on snow). Then steep but easy down to the refuge (water!), then fhe steep RR down to Anticura (close to no water at the indicated spots). Several gates on the last km, none has to be climbed. Arrived at 4.30, and hitchhiked to Entre Lagos for resupply and to organise a oossible boat transfer on Lagos Todos for gpt 21.

*'''31Dec2024 - 3jan2024 / hiking SOBO / OH2 - RR - varD-E - RR - OH1 - RR - OH4A-B / 4days / Clara (joined Volker on the way)'''

Skip section 18 :
Took me about half a day taking multiple buses (puerto fuy - panguipulli - los lagos - paillaco - futrono - llifen), maybe a bit longer on WE with less buses.

At llifen there is a camping/cabañas/hospedaje (15k for hospedaje)
From there you can hitchhike to curriñe/P maihue (maybe there is a bus)
Easy hitchhike to riñinahue to go for OH2. Also bus (first one at 8.10 am from llifen)

OH2 is not MR but PR almost all the way to los venados. When I arrive at 9am there were multiple cars, easy to hitchhike the begining, and I was even lucky to get a ride until RR. You have phone coverage here. Joined Volker at los venados.

GPT19 was one of the nicest section I did so far !!!

Water : demand some planning.
I think we took our last water on a little stream a bit after los venados and then no more on the way up. At points water ? 53.5 and 53.7, there is just snow for now, not melting.
Then snow up on the plateau that you can melt while walking but few stream.

OH1 : lot of fresh flowing water along the way and at the hotspring. Just snow on CC over the ridge.
Then on RR lots of snow.

Water 68.6 : we found a little stream flowing at few meters (go up along the river).

The water points after the refuge on the way down were almost dry.

Camp :
- water? 53.7 Almost flat spot with snow close to it, you can melt it but it's pretry much dirty. Inside the forest, wet.

- hot springs on OH1. So nice, perfect to camp and rest. Carefull the waypoint is not at the good place as said precedently.

- -40.57269,-72.13537. not wind protected. If more wind, maybe there are flat more protected spots before on RR. Really nice sunset.

Snow : a lot of snow walking on the plateau, it's physical but nothing hard or dangerous.

Navigation :
-From los venados around km37 easy trail to follow.
VarD-E to avoid the dogs at a fence but still 2 gates easy to cross on the variants.

-Until the hotsprings on OH1, it's trail sometimes marked with plots and rubans, easy to follow even with the snow.
Stop at the geyser (cross RR - OH1), really nice to observe !!

-After hotsprings it's CC on a really nice ridge with beautiful landscapes all along. Not hard but deserve good wether conditions I think.
Then go back on RR still CC going up and down on soft volcanic sand or snow. Easy to navigate.

-OH4A-B (cratere + summit Puyehue) : we climbed up somewhere between OH4A and the river flowing at point 68.5, not really following the tracks but we arrive almost at the same point at the end. The line was logic, steep, sometimes soft volcanic sand but no snow.
OH4B : so nice tour of the cratere, must do if you have time + weather conditions. Long and physical as it's going up and down on volcanic sand or snow, sometimes steep.
Summit is breathtaking.

Refuge : dry toilets there. Possible to camp around or sleep inside. Still water flowing down for now. Lots of tabaños.

Then skip section 20 : easy to hitchhike to entre lagos from Lican.

* '''Start 2024-12-27 // 3 days // hiking NOBO RR / Mara & Tobias

Amazing section, water in large parts (still a lot of snow up there), no difficulty’s with tabanos. Startet at 10 a.m. by the road, payed the entrance fee to pedro, hiked up to the refugio (still water there!) and continued to -40.57248, -72.13322 where we camped. Went up to the crater to see the sunset. Next day we walked straight to the termas. Position in the trackfiles22 is incorrect. The hot springs are 600 meter upstream at -40.46720 -72.20680. Camped there. Next day we went down in bad weather and luckly got a lift to Rininahue, where we rest and get ready for GPT18.

* '''Start 2024-11-25/ 5d / Hiking SOBO RR / Mo'''

From Currine to Rupumeica is a roadwalk but a bus is available, then a dirt road leads to Rupumeica Alto where a MR T567 leads to Los Venados, I hitchhiked, but there should be a bus. Then a MR leads to Puyehue, Neri and Hector had a locked fence and 3 barking dogs so I took OH to the right (fence, CCTV) where you will find water. The MR becomes a nice trail and then at the time higher than 1400m snow. I went to the hot spring on the plateau, I can recommend it. After Puyehue and also the plateau is easy walking on slopes, CC, trails. The refuge has 1 cover, melting water at the time and protects from wind, not completely. In the valley Olivia made a nice breakfast.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-Apr-08 to 2024-Apr-12 / 3.5 days / SOBO / RR B 01 04A 04B / Matthias de Austria'''

No Tabanos, flies, mosquitos, snowfields, fords. Cool weather, sunny with morning frost. Small parts of 04B east of the summit where icy. Lack of water in large parts. I filled up in the little valley on the way to the hot spring, afterwards I found no water anymore until 76. 1km. Water 53.5, 53.7 and 75.4km were dry.

Bus from Currine to Rupumeica Bajo, last stop at X 13.3km.

One of the best sections, I loved it. The long road walking in the northern parts is boring, but the hike afterwards through the woods is nice and the volcanic plateau amazing. Lot's of volcanic activity, and the detour to the hot spring is strongly recommended. I camped close to it, and stayed in the refuge, which has an oven for cold nights and offers weather protection, but is just a very simple hut with a table and bench and sleeping possibilities around.

* '''From 2024-02-29 to 2024-03/02 // 3 days // Hiking // NOBO // RR + Option 4 (summit) + Option 4B (cratere) + Variant D // Quentin Clavel'''

Anticura - Refuge - Puyehue summit - Cratere - volcanic plateau - geyser - Rio nilahue Lago maihue - Puerto maihue

After basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. She's a very nice lady and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.

I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !

After this resupply I just go for a big climb to the Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378] first, mostly in the forest, then to the Summit {19-04} [2.0/2198] (Volcan Puyehue). On the way to go, only one fence to pass, then the track is well marked, even for the summit, lot of cairns helps you to find the way.

It's slippery and tuff ascent to the summit, but you just can't go around and avoid the absolute breathtaking crater ! I've done the option 4B, which is the hike all around the cratere, quite physical with all the ups and downs, but again, absolutely amazing ! For sure it was one of my highlight of this GPT so far !

Then the volcanic plateau was stunning too. Idk if it was because I was tired or something else, but the distances seems to me huge. You have the feeling that what you see is very close and you need a lot of time to go. It's a lot of ups and downs again, but scenery is amazing, the old lavas are incredible, and these geysers where here to finish the show. I had such a great time !

And then, you suddenly go on a forest which is a huge contrast, continuing long way down to the gravel. I was not checking my GPS and took the most obvious track, which is not even an option on the GPT files, anyway the track leeds me to the variant D, and I was able to refill my water, even if I was happy to find some Frome snowmelt on the volcanic plateau.

Continuing the way to the beautiful lake Maihue. Still always impressed how we can pass threw a lot of various landscapes in that so small amount of time !

Crossing Rio hueinahue wasn't a problem, if it would have been, there's always the option to continue the road and cross it on the bridge, on variant B, adding only 4 kilometers.

The gravel along the lake was very busy as it was the end of the day and everyone came back from the beach, fishing, boat cruise or anything else.

A lot of opportunities to sleep in camping, on the area of Maqueo/Puerto Maihue, even to eat on small restaurant/food truck and small minimarket (but there's a bigger minimarket further on next section)

* '''2024-Jan-23 to 2024-Jan-25 / 2.5 days /Option2 + RR+VarD+E+A / Matthias '''

The route:
(Osorno-) Riñiñahue(Lago Ranco) - Volcano Puyehue - Anticura (-GPT20)

Getting there:
There are busses from Osorno to Rio Bueno and from RioBueno to Lago Ranco every 30 minutes, some direct connections also.
From Lago Ranco to Riñiñahue buses 12:30 and 14:50 on weekdays.

My impression:
Biggest challenge were by far the tabaños, which gave me the speed for long hiking distances, because in the valleys I could not even stand still to take a photo without being attacked ferociously.
The plateau before vulcano Puyehue is spectacular with the geysers and lava flows. Ascent from north on RR a bit boring. Long stretch of MR and little views.
Hiking is easy but tedious on the plateau (loose vulcanite ash). Several easy snowfields, the gully at 53.5 is tricky to cross though, but can be bypassed upstream.

Water:
Requires planning your water resources!
Last water on way up to plateau as mentioned by others about where Var E starts from Var D. Either you follow D 200m further and Dobson bushbashing to the left or on E shortly after start but also not very easy to reach.
Water at km 53.5 and 53.7 now dry (I could get a liter out of a puddle), also km 68.6 and 69.2 are dry! Also no water near the hut, but plenty in between pass km 69.9 and about a km before the hug. On the plateau there is some melting water, but mostly it is very muddy.

* '''2024-Jan-25 to 2024-Jan-28 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {19-01} - RR - {19-04A?} - ski off trail - RR - {19-H} - RR / Lilian'''

Camp beside the lake + Hot spring + Geyser + Volcano + Skiing = GPT19

Do you have any reasons to reject this section?

I take a bus at Maihue on 8:15pm. Arrive Rupumeica Bajo on 9pm, 1500 CLP. When i take off the bus, the driver told me there are some nice spots good for camping and swimming beside the lake, so i go west at x RR [13.3/144].

You can walk 1.2km to Puerto Rupameica "port[4.9/90], arrive the beach, then turn right walking on the beach to find a good spot for camping, but lot of car drivers thinks the same idea. So that beach is a little noisy and crowded even in weekdays night.

If you look at satellite map, there is a side road at (-40.31429, -71.98794), it is behind barbed wire fence, but a friendly locked gate at left side, climb over it then follow the road go down to the beach. Some nice camping spots on a grassland covered by bushes and trees with fire ring, good wind protection and privacy just before the beach.

Also you can camping at the beach, but the cabins and people at Hueinahue can easily look at you(too close). So i follow the beach to walk towards the lake's inlet shore. Lastly I camped at (-40.31074, -71.99001), beside the only tall tree(it doesn't covered me anything). I cleared a spot for a small single person tent, with 180° views of Lago Maihue. Bushes at back covered me for privacy.

RR km3.9 : tiny shop and food truck, (-40.32258, -71.96776)

X[13.3/144] : bus stop, i saw a bus arrive here at 9.10am. Then steep climb up on a good condition dirt road, but hot.

Km16.0 : junction of RR and {19-C}, {19-C} is in a better condition, so i go for it. But i recommend you keep going on RR, and NOT NOT NOT go by {19-C}.

Everything is good also i find a black pipe can fill water in bottles at (-40.33101, -71.98693) until {19-C} km1.4. Trail becomes very confusing, lot of side trail, cow path mix together, easy to walk on the wrong one.

Then the trail at (-40.33851, -71.98185) already taken back by forest, i still find some trace for trail(aluminium cans, wood cutting,etc), but it is not easy also not safe to walk. You need to walk on some groups of old blowdowns to (-40.33873, -71.98182) and rejoin the trail. The blowdowns itself or the gap between them, have a lot of big holes can eat your whole leg, most of the holes are covered by bushes and the blowdowns are a little slippery...

Then start climbing up at (-40.33909, -71.98165). All the ladders and wooden step are broken, also become a tarp for slide down. You need to climb up a loose sandy, muddy, grassy, steep slope that covered by lot of leaves. I have a feeling I'm still in GPT18 but in snow conditions climbing a overgrown snow slope...

At (-40.33978, -71.98141) rejoin a good condition dirt road, although it is shown in OSM, but I didn't see anything look like a road even a clear trail before climb up, so maybe south of the road also taken back by forest at some point. ( or the road going to some place that i don't know and not shown on map)

Then joined RR on a good condition dirt road.

I didn't see food truck at km23 that Martin & Helena said, maybe still not the season, or not open on weekdays noon.

Bridge[25.3/358] : Río Melipue flowing with lot of not clear water, a little yellow.

Then is a HOT, HOT HOT road walk steep up and down with lot of flies entangled in you, most of the time without tree shades, recommend hitch much more as you can. This part is not fun.

Km26.3 : junction of a private park, Parque Huishue. Some nice young care takers stay in the cabin behind the gate, they are very friendly and give me some water.

Camp[31.4/514] : good camping spot, don't camp too close to the lake(muddy). Lake with clear water. When you see the barbed wire fence, keep going 30-40m, you can go around some small blowdowns to get in easily.

Then my luck come, a friendly family give me a ride to Los Venados. Thank you save me from the hot nightmare. It is the second car i saw going west in the whole day.

Then my luck come the second time, Hector and Neri is at home(settle,food,refuge[45.4/537])! They help me refill my bottles with some priceless water! Huge thank you to them!

From km45.45, the road becomes a single track trail between some tall grass until km47.9, then it turns back to an old dirt road but lot of blowdowns, have to find a side trail for going around or just climb over them. And sometimes the road is flat and wide is good for camping.

Km53.1 : looks like is the old dirt road end, becomes a real trail, a broken old sign here too. Flat spot can fit 3 tents here. Some more flat spots just keeping forward, but need to take some minutes to clear out some sticks.

Water?[53.5/1330] : confluence point of three stream, but just muddy, no water.

Water?[53.7/1344] : because the water spot at 53.5 is dry, so i didn't check this one.

Km54.8 - km55 : camping spot at both side of the trail, also some more on dry riverbed.

Looks like Jens came here on a cloudy early morning, i found lot of water spot upon here.

At least 7 snow patches is melting beside RR and you can collect water from them, i just list out the biggest 3. These three snow patch still in a good size, i think can stand for 1-2 weeks more.

(-40.48984, -72.15159) : flowing good with a tiny waterfall (4sec/L) and puddle, you can dip bottles in puddle directly. Rocks in good shape for sitting nearby, so nice lunch spot with water here.

(-40.49050, -72.15348) : flowing good but stream is flat, collectable.

(-40.49142, -72.15752) : this patch is bigger also is flowing better than the first one, with tiny waterfall too! (3sec/L), easy to collect.

If these three are all melted completely, (-40.49351, -72.16296) have a huge snow patch as now, maybe this one can be a backup water source.

Km55.3 : view point for 6 volcanoes at left side, climb up to a tiny hilltop(-40.49068, -72.15235), if you are an exposed camping fans, flat spot can fit 2 tents 20m south of here for you.

Km56 : Geyser time! Explore this area, take your time. Follow the trail on OSM is a little better views of geyser than RR, also is safer i think.

After geyser then i go for {19-01} to hot spring.

{19-01} Km0.9, also a nice viewpoint on the tiny hilltop (-40.48937, -72.16603).

Km1.95 - km3.95 : walking in a green valley, lot of stream flowing with clear water, you can step over or rock hopping all of them, but mostly you will wet feet at last, because the trail crossing on a wet meadows(flowing water) and you have no way to go around. Also lot of camping spots you can find beside the trail in this area, but some of them still a little wet, maybe after one month will be perfect.

Km5.0 : go down into a valley that look dry, better collect water at here(upstream) or the previous valley, because downstream in this valley is hot spring water.

Km6.0 : alga in stream, and water temperature changes!

Km6.2 : camping spot(no wind protection) can fit 3-5 tents at right side, with an amazing hot spring pool(-40.46710, -72.20664)! PERFECT temperature with a pool can soak all your body inside when you sit down in the water. HIGHLY RECOMMEND camping here and take the hot spring before night, you can soak in the pool with a beautiful sunset too!

When i was enjoying the hot spring, a helicopter fly to here and landing, then some locals comes to join me too! Looks like it is a famous spot for them.

Hot spring water flowing all the way to downstream, so you can soak in it at the point you like. But temperature is dropping when it flowing, hot spring[6.8/1415] becomes warm water, good for noon under the hot sun, but not enough for night or early morning soaking. Trail leads you to hot spring[6.8/1415], then no more trail.

Then the ridge walk(OH-CC-A[6.8+6.5]) is fun and no difficulty, just climb up, go down and enjoy the views. Some snow patches, go around or walk on it easily.

Km7.45 : water spot(-40.46983, -72.21372), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km8.7 : water spot(-40.47824, -72.20501), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, i saw water flowing when i was on trail but didn't get close to check.

Km11.25 : water spot(-40.49723, -72.19122), flowing low with clear water by a huge snow patch melts, i dig a puddle for dipping my bottles. Good water!
Then rejoin RR.

RR km59 - km62.4 : go around lava fields, not difficult but lot of up and down, also need to go around some snow patches.

RR km60.6 : water spot(-40.52296, -72.17607), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km60.8 : climb the tiny hill(-40.52470, -72.17420) at left side, viewpoint of Volcán Cordon Caulle and its lava fields.

Km61.1 : water spot(-40.52673, -72.17332), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect.

Km61.8 : flat spot(-40.53143, -72.16976) can fit 2 tents with views of Volcán Puyehue.

Km62.7 : small geyser(-40.53782, -72.16450).

Km63.3 : better route going up to 1610m hilltop. Take the small valley at (-40.54327, -72.16187), climbing up gently, then turn right at (-40.54309, -72.16096), follow the valley all the way go to the top. I saw 3 cairns along this route.

Km65.4 : water spot(-40.55234, -72.14982), flowing low by a huge snow patch melts, clear but not easy to collect. I didn't see any more clear water for a while on trail after this one.

Km67.6 : snow patches. Walking on it and going to other side of valley. Then you can follow the GPX track or like me, walking on snow patch valley (-40.56967, -72.13232) avoid step over many gaps here, go to the junction of climbing Volcán Puyehue.

Climbing Volcán Puyehue on {19-04A} is a not easy route, steep climbing up on a losse tiny stones slope about 40°, when you get higher, it becomes more steep. Tired cilmb up, then i think it is a little dangerous to going back down at the same way, because too steep.

I didn't follow GPX track, because it looks really steep, i start climbing up beside a stick (-40.57372, -72.13363) at RR km68.25, then towards a little south(-40.57842, -72.12614) of the peak going up. Then join the ridge for last climbing up to the top. At about 1950m-2000m , you'll find some step trace that can follow all the way to top and easier to step on, but the ground becomes much loose when going up more. You also can follow them to going down after the summit.

Enjoy the views of crater, it is melting, but a blue lake in the middle, so beautiful!

At the top, {19-04A} is impossible to connect to south on the rim as now, because is blocked by a snow wall, but you can going down a little, go around it climb up again to the rim, if you really want.

From some observation at high, I find a SKIING ROUTE that can ski down all the way to pass[69.9/1764]. (This route is ski by shoes, not sit down and slide.)

It starts on 2110m(-40.57839, -72.12569), join snow slope here. Then skiing to SSW, water spot at 2035m(-40.58039, -72.12646), it is melting by the super huge snow slope you just ski down, i think it can stand at least one month or more. The water spot have a tiny waterfall, easy to collect. Fresh, clear, cold and taste good! I love this water!

Then step on the snow again at 2030m(-40.58108, -72.12689), now ski to SW, to 1945m(-40.58436, -72.12988), then 1900m(-40.58484, -72.13278), then 1835m(-40.58634, -72.13552)(it have a gap about 20m no snow), lastly ski to rejoin RR at km69.8. But i saw nothing there , so i ski a little bit more and find some walking trace at 1770m(-40.58640, -72.13791), looks like parallel to RR. I took about 35min from the start of skiing to here, including refill water bottles and finding the way on map.

I camped at (-40.58964, -72.13953), a little flat with some rocks that i can hold my tent on a sandy ground. A little off trail, but super amazing views of Volcán Casablanca, Volcán Puntiagido, Tronador, Lago Puyehue and Río Golgol, with a fantastic sunset moment!

From km70.4, you'll find a trail and cairns along RR, some of the trail is already landslide away and still covered by snow patches, but most of them is easy to follow.

Km70.55 : (-40.59245, -72.13560) flowing good by a super huge snow patch melts, milky but easy to collect. A black pipe leads water to other place too.

Km70.7 : water spot(-40.59349, -72.13423), flowing low with a tiny waterfall by a huge snow patch melts, clear and easy to collect.

Km71.6 : flat spot(-40.60105, -72.13406) can fit 2 tents. Someone camped here before, built a tiny rock wall, but too tiny I don't think it can provide wind protection in a really windy condition.

Km71.9 : junction. It is impossible to climb up or go down by {19-04A} at here as now, a huge snow wall about 60° block the way. Lot of water is flowing at here, main stream is not too clear, but you can find clear water from some smaller one. Upstream 15m for rock hopping dry feet crossing.

Then i took {19-H} going down, because RR looks like need to walking on some loose sandy slope. At (-40.60459, -72.13491) i find a clear trail that leads all the way to rejoin RR at km72.75. No landslide, no loose rocky or sandy, just walking on a grass slope easily.

Then RR is a clear trail in good condition to follow and walk.

Refuge[73.8/1378] : refuge with picnic table and fire ring, good spot for lunch and overnight.

Then RR still easy to follow but a little steep and a little slippery, i almost slipped down in several times.

Water[75.4/992] : flowing low with clear water, easy to collect. After here, trail conditions become better, no more slippery.

Water[76.1/884] : flowing very low with clear water, have some small puddles at upstream. A spot for climbing break, log seats and tree shades here.

Km77.9 : trail becomes dirt road, cars parking at here, some grassland flat spot with fire ring nearby.

Then all the way road walking go down to Licán and Anticura. Didn't met any people charge me for entrance fee.

I didn't see any shops nearby, just a restaurant at (-40.66624, -72.17463), you can go through their gate(-40.66843, -72.17218) to there. They provide good food and fast wifi. I look at their board, looks like they accept USD and EURO at here. (I don't know can money exchange or not)

* '''2024-01-18 to 2024-01-21: Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days RR + Option 04A + Option 01 + Option 03 / NOBO hiking.'''

Great section with great views! Very enjoyable. Not much to add to the other reports. We took the bus to the intersection with the Puyehue hot springs, hitchhiked from there (not a great spot for hitchhiking, but it works). Didn't see anyone at the trailhead and hence didn't pay. We passed by a small steam on the way up, but I would not be surprised if it sometimes dries out. The first night, we stayed by the hut. A small stream made it's way to the hut in the evening, so we got lucky and could refill. Second day, we climbed up to the scenic crater via option 4a. The ascent through loose scree was a bit tiresome, but made for an awesome shoe-skiing descent. The "Water ?" at km68.6 was a snow covered stream, but we were able to get some water from a melting snowfield. We camped at km64.6. The next day we went via an interesting ridge hike to the hot springs (option 1), which is a river in a nice valley. There are multiple spots to get into the river, upstream is hotter. But it was a hot day, and the tabanos were relentless, so we moved on to camp in the next valley, at S 40° 29.078', W 072° 10.870' or roughly at {19-01} [3.0]. This is a beautiful valley with good access to drinking water (not sure about the hot springs -- I wouldn't drink that water).
Just before rejoining the regular route, we marveled at the volcanic gas vents at S 40° 29.651', W 072° 09.651', or 100m W of km56.1. Even if you are not going to the hot springs (which you should!), make sure not to miss them.
The descent was relatively unspectacular. We accidentally took an unintended route down (19-D I think?), but it wasn't an issue. Our plan was to hitchhike from km37.4 out to Lago Ranco, but it took over an hour to find a ride, since only few cars passed by.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 14 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / Argentina, completely new option, Villa Lago Meliquina to Villa Traful / Natalie & Tomáš'''
[Note 2024 November: This is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is a part of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is roughly what corrresponds to GPT19, previous log is in GPT18, next in GPT20. Look also at Hannes von S report who followed us: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1763867210785824/.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1758304798008732/.
Our second Facebook post (Natalie somehow wrote it down twice): https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1732579750581237/]

Summary: Starting in Laguna Meliquina and hitching to Lago Filo Hua Hum, we traversed up and over to Laguna Trufal, took a boat to Trufal proper.

From Laguna Filo Hua Hum we crossed up and over via Cerro Escuadra ridge and towards Sendero las Mellizas trail. There was some minor scrambling. For crossing Lago Trufal we organized to be taken back on a day tripper boat coming from Trufal by the help of settler, Felipe. However, thanks to Tomášs' curiosity, he found a good trail along the lake that takes you to the end of Lago Trufal, thereby avoiding the need for a boat. If you want, the boat company info is here; Eco Traful, (0294) 15-4201952. It cost 25mil each cash, we bargained it down to 20mil each (extortion). The ridge and plateau were mostly CC and there was only some minor BB from the ridge down to Mellizas (if you find the settler trail). It could possibly be done in 1 long day, it took us 1.5days, not counting the extra day spent with Felipe. Technically you are supposed to register with parks but there is no actual name for the trail so not sure how you would; https://www.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar/zonas_habilitadas.html.

1) Meliquina to Laguna Filo Hua Hum:
We were lucky and got a hitch directly from the tourist stand in Meliquina to the camping spot on Laguna Filo,-40.50075, -71.29960. If no hitch, it is a ~ 20km road walk but hitching should be easy. Possibly the river could be packrafted. There is a small creek near the camping to fill up on, take a lot as there is no water until after Cerro Mesa, which could potentially be dry in late summer months. There is technically a water source we found before the climb up to Cerro Escuadra near a large grass pasture but you will have to walk off route to get to it and once again in late summer months it may not be there.
2) Laguna Filo Hua Hum to Cerro Escuadra, Mesa and the plateau:
From camping Laguna Filo there is a good trail to start off with from the back of camp, it is even marked in yellow: -40.50075, -71.29960. However after a view point the trail becomes less clear, you can take a short cut up a steep hill after the view point or keep following the trail even though it can disappear from time to time [November 2024: The trail is now on OSM]. Eventually the trail takes you to a very large grass pasture beneath the climb for Cerro Escuadra, camping paradise if it wasn't for the wind. We camped early here once we found a water source (-40.52378, -71.30019), as camping on the ridge would be very windy and dry. I believe this cow pasture is the link to Felipe the settler on lake Traful, where there could be a much more direct way to the other side, open for exploration [some exploration options based on scoutin Google Earth are in the suggestions].

From the cow pasture, you make your way to the ridge, a good trail at first but then once on the ridge proper, it disappears. I went left to side hill the difficult looking ridge top that lay ahead and Tomáš of course continued the ridge proper. After this, it is an easy walk along a broad ridge connected to the peak. The peak is not so much a peak but a large plateau, easy walking. Eventually the plateau ends via a cliff drop so you must find our scramble to the right, we made cairns but forgot to make a waypoint, it is roughly somewhere here -40.53296, -71.30956 . From here there will be about 3 ledge systems you have to scramble along and down but only the very first one is possibly class three (low) [SAC T4 if at all, not exposed]. When you get down you can admire the look back and wonder how you got down! From there you can either stay low and avoid Cerro Messa and a slightly ugly scree or snow descent by aiming around here -40.53743, -71.32863, you may find the start of Felipe's horse trail here as well. The other option is to climb Cerro Mesa and exit i's steep ridge here -40.53812, -71.32576, then cross down and to the right to connect to the rest of the ridge/water source. The descent here is steep but surprisingly soft, if there is snow I advise against it, it is not hard to go around the other way. The rest of the ridge has a magnitude of colors and minerals. It is a small section but if you look at your feet and not the sky you will see lots of different gem like rocks (and/or copper). Personally I think Felipe might be sitting on a gold mine! Speaking of Felipe, this is where we first met him, he appeared out of nowhere and I felt star-struck, if you meet him you will know what I mean, his posture and attire look as if he left the scene of an old Argentinian cowboy movie. He explained to me that he lived down by Lago Trufal and that this was his land and I should have a park registration, but didn't care so much about the park stuff. He was caring and let me continue even though the route I explained to him didn't make any sense.

Going forward you will be on Felipe's trail for a bit and see a green patch ahead that may or may not have water. If it should, it could also serve as a camp spot -40.55045, -71.33970.
From this grass patch you can follow Felipe's trail if you can see it, it goes through and around some rock structures and then up to a very large plateau. The plateau is marked with some cairns, the area just before the plateau can be marshy. The plateau itself has some ancient looking cairns, but basically you need to aim for this ridge outcrop over top of a cow pasture here -40.56308, -71.33350. The cow pasture below could also be good camping.

3) Plateau to Lago Traful/Felipe's house:
Originally we had planned to follow this outcrop and bushbash to the lakes, maybe this could still be done but the bush looks awful and to our surprise we found a trail in good shape below the ridge outcrop. From the ridge outcrop there is another "grey" like ridge that runs perpendicular and into a forest. If you follow this grey ridge it shall take you to the start of a pretty well maintained trail. Take this trail down and into the trees, after it passes over to the left of a tree ridge, it becomes easy to loose as tree fall has created numerous small trails in bad condition. We found the best one (or not, who knows) and followed it down some more until we crossed two creeks. After the second creek the trail totally vanished so we went back to the first creek and walked "down the creek bed". We walked down the creek bed for maybe 1km, it was not hard or dangerous adn not bush-bashy. We eventually found a trail again somehow and followed it all the way down into the valley where there is a large fence separating Laguna Verde from Laguna de los Juncos. There is some nice camping under the forest at the bottom before you hit the gate. However, although technically you are supposed to have a guide, there are petroglyphs in pretty good shape here -40.61891, -71.31079. Night and rain was approaching so we walked to the flat part between Laguna Verde and Blanca to set up camp, just after a puesto. You will have to grab water from the stream near the petroglyphs for camp.

Not knowing how the boat situation would evolve, we left camp very early in hopes to catch a boat that had dropped of day trippers for the day at the drop off point here -40.63958, -71.34857. Luckily, bcs the standard trail near the end is slightly overgrown we took a different way to the beach and this is how we met Felipe again. He has one of the most beautiful properties I have seen so far, ancient wood craftsmanship throughout, lots of little animals and also numerous expedition tents permently set up for some type of turismo I assume. His settlement is here. He told us that there would not be any boats that day due to high winds but he could arrange a boat for us the next day, he also offered his place to camp and out some wood on the fire for a hot shower. With a glorious free day in front of us I chose to go back to bed and Tomáš went back to Sendero las Mellizas to explore.

On his trip he found a good trail that followed the shoreline all the way to the start of Laguna Trufal, thereby avoiding the need for a boat. After he got back from that exploration he went on to explore the other side of Las Mellizas we did not see, towards Lago de los Juncos. Once again he found another path that seemed to follow the river there, towards the end of Lago Traful, thereby meaning one could even take that route, but will need to be verified [November 2024: Hannes did verify it. Also all these trails are in OSM now].
The next day, although he did not ask for it, we paied Felipe 10mil for camping and gave him half of a melon Tomáš had been carrying in his bag for the trip, Felipes wife was very happy! Felipe walked with us to a different boat pick up location and sure enough a boat came and took us on their way back. It was a fun ride but not free. As expected it would not be cheap, since the boat is run by a tourism company we payed 20 thousand each once back in Trufal. The company information is listed above. There was no cell phone reception at Felipe's but there was reception on the ridge outcrop before the trail took us down to the lakes, maybe you can arrange something there or take the lake trail to the end of the lake and avoid the boat.
Trufal proper was nothing special: Bad internet. The main mini supermarcet was okay, it definitely met our needs but nothing fancy. It had veges/fruit, fresh baked bread loafs and good cheese and deli meat. There was an expensive restaurant near the trailhead we took after our resupply that had very good sandwiches and empanadas. The sandwich (10 thousand) was served on foccacia bread and was enormous.
The park office was closed. so we just started hiking that afternoon without reservation/paying.

* '''2024-01-08 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 4a/ Jens '''

From what people have written before, I thought I would find a more impressive stretch. Up to Neri and Hector's house it is a gravel road in the forest with no views.

There is a bus from Currine at 2pm that goes all the way to Rupumeica Bajo. There may be more buses, I didn't ask.

Up to km 45 (Hector's house) there is a good water supply. Starting from the house ( their friend Erwin housitting, offered water).
I only found water at the marked spot at about km 55. There was only a very small stream, more like a puddle that might dry up soon.

There was no water around the volcano until about 5 km from the refuge.
The refuge has no water. The small stream next to it dried up a few kilometres before. Bring water from there if you want to stay overnight.

I climbed the volcano on the west side (option 4a). It was scree all the way up. I thought about turning back more than once, but the view was worth it. The descent on the other side was a bit easier. I "skied" down the snowy slopes.

* '''2023-Dec-18 / 5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant D, E) / Lauren & Sebastian'''

First things first: This section was absolutely spectacular!

Water: We filled our 3L of water each whenever we could and didn’t need to worry; snow from 1350m

We started packrafting at GPT19 start point but had to abandon Lago Maihue after 2km, as head winds were too strong. We hiked south on RH until a bus took us to Rupumeica Bajo. We stayed at the campsite ($) at -40.3143, -71.9913. The owners live in the house across the road.

The next morning we crossed with the packraft to wp Lake {19} [9.6/90]. From there it is a long but enjoyable hike along MRs to wp Bridge {19} [37.3/296] where we camped for the night. Recommend to hitchhike this part if you can, as the heat and heavy backpack (due to full food supplies), made this road walking tiring - and you will need your strength and endurance later!
There is a water point at -40.3757, -72.0647.

The next day we went along RR and met Hector and Neri on our way to their place. They were heading out in their truck but we had a short and lovely chat with them. We passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. We camped at -40.4721, -72.1247 at 1100m, a nice flat spot in the upper part of the forest. It is less than an hour from wp Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] where we refilled the next morning.

Breaking out of the forest into the plateau was breathtaking. Snow was mushy and walkable with trail shoes and hiking poles. Progress is slow. Keep a close eye on your gps to avoid backtracking. It took us 2 days to cross the plateau and we camped a night there with initially windy conditions that eased. There are a few good flat spots around the halfway mark on the plateau. Snow also gradually decreases after the pass and trail visibility improves. We then stayed a night at wp Refuge Without Water {19} [73.8/1378]. There is water at the refuge now, but filling up at one of the water points further up felt easier and more accessible to us.

From the refuge down to the end of GPT 19 is steep at first, but good and easily findable trail (approximately 3 hours).

* '''2023-12-04 to 2023-12-07 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO /RR (Option 04A) / Roman'''

Hitchhiked to started packrafting here Port {19} [2.9/103] (Puerto Maqueo) easy access to water. Very good conditions (10:00 am). Went on land and followed the RR. Very good condition. Like in 02/23 locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Pitched tent at -40.480692, -72.135769. Snow starts at 1350m. Water was available. I would recommend having sunglasses (preferably glacier sunglasses), suncream, and a hat. The next 2 days were hiking on snow with constant snow exposure. The snow was a bit slushy but manageable. The trail was due to the snow not visible but you can just follow the GPS. Went from the RR via Option 04A to the Volcano and back. Slept at the Hut. Water was available due to the melting of snow. The way down is easy. Hitchhiked to Entre Lagos.

Overall: good trail, nice views no major challenges would definitely recommend it.

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

* '''2023-Nov-29 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-02A + OH-02 + RR (Variant D, E and G) / Tom Pieper'''

I first attempted to make my way to the plateau by Option 02A. This is not possible as the entire lower trail lies within the private park Parque Futangeu. The entrance fee would be $15.000, camping is forbidden and access to the upper parts is blocked by private property of one of the park owners. Park is strictly fenced and has a guarda del parque. So this is definetly no Option for ascent but maybe for leaving the plateau NOBO. I easily catched a ride on Option 2 to the RR. The gate to Neri and Hectors place was locked, therefore i passed the two locked gates on Option D and connected by Option E back on RR. As others mentioned water is scarce all the way up, but a little creek can be easily accessed from Option D just 200 m after Option E has branched (S 40° 25.785' W 072° 06.839'). Good camping spots when Option G reenters RR. Saw wild boar nearby. Snow starts apruptly at 1300 m within the forest. Mystic atmosphere but hard walking. Lots of patagonian woodpeckers around. Snow increases gradually and I decided to leave my backpack near the Water ? {19} [53.5/1330] which was nearly covered by snow but provides already fresh water. At the rim of the plateau (1550 m) the views were spectacular but the plateau is impassable right now as it has meters of snow there. So I returned back the same way to Rininahue.

* '''Recommendation Jan Dudeck in November 2023: Based on the STRAVA Global Heatmap'''
(https://www.strava.com/heatmap#12.18/-72.09488/-40.50378/hot/all) the Route GPT19 Option 3 is open and used again (we got severely stuck in bamboo in November 2013). This route might be slightly faster but makes access to the hot spings "Hot Spring {19-01} [6.8/1415]" a big detour. Due to the river crossing this route is only recommended northbound in December while the snow on the plateau is melting. This places the river crossing at the beginning so it's easy to return to the regular route if the river ford is not manageable. This Route GPT19 Option 3 might be beneficial when the weather window of decent weather for crossing the plateau is rather short.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-FEB-10 - 2023-FEB-13 / 3 days / hiking / RR + volcan summit + termas - round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :'''

I wanted to precise one thing that I haven't understand : Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).

Day 1 - Refugio El Caulle - 8km - +1000m/-0m First day going up to the refuge. We took the bus from Osorno, the only one going to Anticura leaves at 6pm but you have plenty of others going to Termas de Puyehue (going to Aguas Calientes). From there, 15km of hitchike, very easy. Then, the rise until the refuge in a beautiful and green forest. There is water upward the refuge, 15min walk.

Day 2 - Volcan Puyehue + camp El Domo - 13km - +1300m/-1100m The caldeira of the volcano is superb ! the path is well traced until the summit. Then, we did the round of it and went down on the opposite side. We camped at the "El Domo" camp, located on Santiago's map, around km XX. Water is available just before it.

Day 3 - Termas - 17km - +700m/-900m Under the rain, it's not easy to navigate on the volcanic plateau. I would say that a navigation device is mandatory. Hot springs are very enjoyable after such a day under the rain. There is drinkable water before the hot springs (1km).

Day 4 - Back to Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m A long day, even longer under the rain but doable. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.

* '''2023-Feb-04 to 2023-Feb-07 / 3.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

Great section, after a lot of forrest trails it was nice to see again something totally different and quite similiar to the landscape of GPT06. We were a little irresponsible with the water so better plan carefully.

The beginning around the lake is just road walking with quite a lot of traffic, depending on the weekday, but its better to avoid it, we didn’t feel always safe with more cars passing by. There should be ferry that goes on the other side of the lake. Good restaurant at around km 2-3, the one with empanadas to go in the house above the restaurant (reealy good). We camped behind a gate at km 5.7, below one of the miradors. At Hueinahue we went down to the beach we have seen from the road, hoping to buy some food, but nothing was there except of crowds of people. We crossed the river to get back on the road, but it would have been better to return back really. MR continues for the next almost 30km, but its quite nice walking through forrest and around settlements. Food truck with empanadas and some drinks at km 23 was a nice surprise, but might be there only in summer. Great place to camp by laguna at km 31, but its shores are all muddy.

Bridge at km 37 is the last reliable source of water so keep it in mind! When we got to the start of option 03, there was only locked gate and no one around at Hector and Neri’s place. Because of that we went with 03, and after 2 locked gates joined the CC variant and back on the RR. There is probably some tiny stream at the CC part but not easily accessible. The way up on the RR already was relatively easy with a few fallen trees that you can always walk around. We were hoping to find some water at km 53.5 or the one next to it but it was all dry already, just like many creeks that we have seen over the treeline. This became a problem for us, and the first water we found was at the big plateau you have to descent to in order to continue to the lava field and further. We didnt turn left at the beginning but continued straight to a few snowfields that are still big enough and on a hot day we could gather water from the snowmelt. From that point its about half a day to the next water (close to the start of descent down to the refugio and valley) so again good to take as much as you can. We didn’t have to pay anything at the end of the section as someone told us, this might be the case only in NOBO direction, or it was because we went there later in the evening. We camped on a yard of family living across the road for 5k CLP, they sell some basic food and its possible to have a shower there as well. Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2023-JAN-28 - 2023-JAN-30 / 3 days / hiking / NOBO / Yannic & Mirjam'''

Much has already been explained in great detail, so we will be brief: We saw no one at the entrance and therefore walked through without paying an entrance fee. The two water streams in the forest are dry and there is no water directly at the refugio. However, there are still snowfields about 1-2 km further up from the refugio which provide enough water. There was still enough water at 68.6. After that, there were still isolated snowfields, but partly further away from the trail. We spent the night between the lava rocks at S 40.53312 / W 72.16869, as there were still snowfields there, which we used for drinking water. After that, there was no more water until we reached Neri and Hector's house. The two of them were so nice and filled up our water. They charged an entrance fee of 5,000 CLP per person. Because of language barriers, we weren't sure if it was voluntary or because we couldn't show a ticket from the other entrance. Anyway, we paid and moved on. Hitchhiking to Rininahue went quite well once you are on the bigger Minor Road T-851.

* '''2023-JAN-26 - 2023-JAN-29 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / Riñinahue (option 2) - Volcán Puyehue (option 4B) - Licán / Anna & Christopher'''

From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx. and arrived there around 17:00 pm. On the way up to Los Venados there is one accessible creek approx. 2,5 km before Los Venados. When we arrived there the gate following the RR was locked. As we didn't wanted to dry camp (we didn't fill up our bottles at the creek) we tried to get access to the river following variant D. It's definitely not possible to get water there, the forest is too dense and its getting too steep to climb down. So we went back and luckily after a while Hector and Neri arrived. They offered us to stay at their Refugio the night as it was already quite late.

The way up to the plateau is a good path. We collected some water from the northern "water?" waypoint around km 53,5. As Véronica mentioned there are only some shallow pools, but with clear water. On the plateau there are still some creeks from the snowmelt, but not that many so better carry some water. Around km 65 we saw in the valley on the left hand side a nicely flowing creek (off the RR) and decided to camp there. Its a detour of about 15-20min.

The next day we woke up to a clear blue sky and therefore decided to climb the volcano and to take the surrounding variant. On the ascent we didn't follow the GPS, which was a bad idea, as we ended up in a steep scree traverse/sketchy rock climbing. So it took us a lot of time to reach the ridge. Once there we enjoyed the amazing views! Walking around the crater got more and more tiring with all the ups and downs, but it's worth it! It was our favorite section so far. We collected some snowmelt water on the descent and camped at the Refugio (no water there).

The path down from the Refugio is in good conditions. From Licán we got a ride directly to Puerto Montt.

* '''2023-Jan-05 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank'''

I came from GPT18. Before Lago Maihue there are a couple of small shops & a restaurant. As you go around Lago Maihue on the road there are a lot of $ campsites, then the road climbs high above the lake before dropping to Rio Hueinahue. I forded the river easily & went down to Camping Rupimeca at the lake, about 1KM off route. Good cheap campsite, no electricity but they will charge your phone at the house. Next day I continued to Hector & Neri's house but they weren't around. I went in on the alternative route which goes right on a road just before Hector & Niri's place. It's marked private with two locked gates but there was no one there. Stream near the road but difficult to access - running in a gully & blocked by vegetation. After several attempts I was able to access the stream higher up & camped nearby. Just before the alternative route rejoins the RR from Hector & Niri's house there is a stream, if you drop down right a few hundred metres from RR onto the alternative route here you can get water. The water sources marked near the treeline were tiny stagnant pools & they are a bit off trail. However, in early January there was plenty of water above treeline from snowmelt. Did the spectacular traverse in one long day. The snowfields could be traversed or avoided fairly easily. Fill up with water before you descend to the hut. There was no water at the hut & on the trail out to the road the marked water sources were only tiny trickles. Carry a few litres of water up to the hut if you are NOBO. There was no one at the entrance & I hitched out to Entre Lagos.

* '''6 to 8 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT19 RR SOBO / via GPT19-02 / 2.5 days
Route: Riñinahue - Los Venados - Refugio El Caulle - summit of Volcán Puyehue - Anticura'''

I loved seeing the drastic change in landscape and ecosystems on this section, from the life-filled rainforest to the stark desert-like altiplano.

From Panguipulli, I took the first bus to Los Lagos, which left at 8:40 a.m. There was no bus from Los Lagos to Futrono, so I hitchhiked instead. Then from Futrono I took a bus to Llifen, then hitched the rest of the way to Riñinahue. I wanted to start this section from Riñinahue (Option 2) in order to shave off some of the road walking on the Regular Route. I was lucky and caught a ride all the way to the bridge at km 37.3 over Río Nilahue. Getting to the trail took most of the day. I began to hike south on the regular route around 5 p.m.

I met Neri and Hector, very kind people. At first Hector was apprehensive about letting me hike onward because I was alone. But after explaining how far I'd walked and showing him my GPS and SPOT device, he agreed to let me through the park. I wrote down my name and contact info in the book/registry he keeps with Neri. I dry camped about a kilometer beyond their house.

After Hector and Neri's place, the path stops being MR and becomes TR through the lush Valdivian rainforest. Trail is in good condition. There are a few blowdowns, but they are relatively easy to go around, climb over, or crawl under.

The "water ?" waypoint north of the trail before the treeline is just a few shallow pools of stagnant water. It was cold and clear though, so I collected 2 litres for the upcoming Puyehue plateau. I didn't investigate the other "water ?" to the south. I definetly didn't have to carry that much, because I soon discovered the plateau still has many snow patches, and so there are lots of little snowmelt trickles pretty regularly. This may no longer be the case in a few weeks though.

The altiplano is desolate and beautiful, very reminiscent of Section 6. I found there was a decent path and footprints to follow up until the junction at km 56.1. There are impressive azufreras there! Afterwards it's all cross-country. I had no navigation issues. I found the terrain got more physically demanding the closer I got to the volcano, and climbing in and out of steep-walled dry arroyos was tiring.

The "water ?" at 68.6 km was flowing nicely. The next "water ?" at 69.2 km was non-accessible, because the ravine where it is located is currently covered by a giant snowfield. You'd have to go down quite a bit to get to where the water trickles out. There will be water there a long time, I'd say.

The "pass" waypoint was confusing to me, because I saw nothing there that looked like a pass. It's just a long traverse on the mountainside. About a kilometer south of this "pass" though, a trail reappears and it lasts all the way to the refugio El Caulle.

The weather was looking a bit unsettled, cloudy and windy, and I didn't know if it would rain or not, so I did a long day and camped at the refugio (the volcanic flank is quite exposed). I collected lots of water at the waypoint at km 71.8, so I didn't check to see if the spring below the refugio was running or not.

Early the next morning, the weather looked good, so I left most of my gear at camp and climbed Puyehue following Option 4. There are cairns most of the way up, and other footsteps/tracks to follow. It gets a bit steep in some places, but nothing too crazy. Poles definitely helped and having a light backpack too. The 800-m climb is definitely worth it! Amazing to see the surrounding mountains and valley clouds in the early morning light. Like Quetrupillan, the crater of Puyehue is filled with snow and ice. The climb from the refugio to the summit took me 1h45 min, including a short water/breakfast break on the way up. Downhill was easier and less sketchy than I expected, and that took an hour.

From El Caulle down to the road is a clear path, sometimes steep, down through the forest. The two water sources there were pretty much dry, just a bit of stagnant and muddy water. It has been very dry this past month, almost no rain. I crossed the gates at Santiago's house at the end, I didn't see anyone and no one charged me entry for the park. I hitched easily to Entre Lagos and will be skipping down to GPT22.

==Season 2021/22==

==Season 2020/21==

* '''2021-Dec-19 / Molly and Melissa / GPT21 Northbound - RR + ascent of summit:'''
4 days - skipping some of the gravel road along the lake

We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road. It's a couple of kilometres before Anticura. It would also be possible to walk, from Puyehue to Lican is about 10 km. We walked up to the restaurant and met a man who lives close by, he told us Santiago wasn't home, but he could take our payment. As others have written, Santiago wants to know the names and approximate schedule of everyone going towards the volcano. We slept at his camp site as well, it has flushing toilets and showers in a shed, it doesn't cost extra.

Volcán Puyehue:

In short: Snow is no longer a problem, but there is still enough to create little streams, so carrying 1-1,5 L of water each was fine for us. Beautiful but tough. Navigation is okay when using the GPS.

The first of the little streams marked as water on the GPS while climbing up through the forest was dry, the other was still running. We passed the refugio, which has quite a few bunk beds without mattresses. From there the path towards the volcano is quite clear through the grass, and is marked with frequent cairns further up so the navigation here is quite easy all the way to the top. We left our bags on the main route which was a good decision, it was very steep with very loose small volcanic rocks. The view from up there was amazing. When continuing past the volcano, there is a trail for about three kilometres more, but after that it's pure cross country. With the GPS it's not that hard to navigate, but clear weather is necessary and the terrain is tough, especially when passing between the lava fields. We found that the Locus Maps showed a different route than the GPS. We still found quite a few streams, especially when still near the volcano, if there's snow there's probably still some water. The snow is no problem for walking though. The first water? was pretty big and will probably last some time, but the second was really small, but there are several other streams as well. There's also more water in the afternoon when more snow has melted. All in all climbing from the camping, climbing the volcano and traversing the plateau took us two days of walking. It could be done in less, but would be tough. We got quite sunburned even though we used sunscreen, it's very exposed!

We had no trouble with finding the trail on the other side, it already starts being clear before reaching the forest. After that it's mostly just easy walking on gravel roads. When going northbound there is an alternative route around Hector and Neri's place that seems easier, we opted for the overgrown route to their house because we wanted to see if we could buy some bread, they didn't sell any though, but we had a nice chat with Hector as he let us through their locked gate. They later drove us about a kilometre when they passed us. The gravel road was a bit tedious and very hot, and hard to find good camping spots. The one marked on the GPS was behind a fence and some dense vegetation, but a little earlier it was possible to go through a gate to a little lake. We were told that there were many pumas and that we couldn't drink the water from the lake, we drank from a little stream going to the lake instead, and we didn't see any pumas.

Rio Hueinahue:

We were able to cross the river without problems, it went to mid- thigh height and we are both around 160 cm tall. The current wasn't too strong either. We have had quite a few warm, dry days before.

On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.

* '''2021-Dec-03 / Alex Abramov / GPT19: Volcán Puyehue. Northbound.'''

The "Plateau" still has a LOT of snow.

==Season 2019/20==

* '''Feb 2020 / Matthieu / RR + ascent of the summit + OH to the Hot Springs, Northbound'''

Great section, amazing views, no technical difficulties with the trails and cross country.

- '''Fees''' : In this sense you have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago and is really nice, he gives you all the informations necessary for places to camp and water supply. I could take a photo of the touristic map too, which normally you have to pay for. Going southbound I don´t think that you have to pay something to enter the parc.

- '''Water supply''' :
NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west.
All the west flank of the volcano is full of little stream coming from the snow. On this part no difficulties. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow.
There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river).
Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.

- '''Optionnal roads''' :
For the ascent of the volcano, I personnaly , on advice of Santiago, let my tent along the river "Water 145", souther from the waypoint. There are some flat places nice for the tent. From here you can go straight to the top, no technical difficulties.

For the Hot springs (nice experience, but the valley is full of tabaño at this season, so prefer arriving at the sunset to enjoy the water after !) : To go to the valley, I took a path that was on the touristic map but not on the GPT tracks. AFter the dry lake just before div 126 I followed the RR tracks up the hill, going east, and after I quitted the trqcks to go down directly to a little canyon, seeming to be a dry river. Really interessant path, and really easy, all flat in the canyon.It goes directly north and join the OH-TL-1901#001, making a triangle with the GPS tracks. There is a couple of hours walking after, in a nice green valley (plenty of water) until the hot springs. To enjoy the hot springs, I would recommend not to go (as I did) to the waypoint that will drive you in the closed canyon. The rocks in water are full of foam, and the feeling is really not good. I found a good place to camp and bath going back the next day, with traces of camping. About 300m before the waypoint hot springs, Just after the OH track makes a sort of right angle, the river take a shape of sharp angle and there is sand in the found of the river to sit and enjoy without slipping (GPS point of this site :S40°28.036' / W072°12.519'). To go back I followed the OH tracks until the RR, passing by the Geysers.

- '''Rivercrossing''' : one, the Rio Hueinahue. The GPS tracks are a good place to cross, going there the rocks before a rapid The river is very large thow, and the rocks slippery. When I passed I had maximum water a little bit above the knees. It is easier to see the good path in the river arriving southbound, because the road is up the river,but it is not so clear going northbound, If you are not confident with rivers, there are bridges up the road, not very far. Better not take useless risks.

- '''Ressupply locations''' : Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.

* '''2020-Feb-19 / Martina & Ivo / Regular route southbound (start: km 37, end: Anticura)'''

2.5 days. Actually we wanted to hike from Riñinahue, so we took a random Bus in Osorno (09:20) to Río Bueno, where there was a connecting Bus to Lago Ranco, where there was another connecting Bus to Riñinahue, and this one continued - to our astonishment - to the bridge over Río Nilahue, where the optional route meets the regular route. We found water in the forest at both waypoints "water?", but we went after a period of heavy rain. The "water?" before the pass is still flowing and there is a lot of snow left to keep it flowing. The section was unexpectedly physically demanding but extremely beautiful! In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...

* '''10-02-2020 / Ty/ RR SOBO/ 3 Days'''
I got lucky and got a ride all the way up to Los Venados. I went around Hectors house and camped up before tree line. There’s a bit of water still up there, just a few strong trickles though. I thought they would stay running for a while. Then for day 2 I went to the refuge, with a slight detour to the rim of the volcano. Definitely recommend. The “water?“ at RR-CC-A@19-68.0+3.7 seemed to have plenty in it at the time as well. At the rim a cloud came in and made navigation pretty tricky, but easily managed. Nice refuge with campsites outside. Spring still running. Tables and everything! Overall, an amazing section. From the end I hitched up to Antillanca optional Start for the next section.

* '''16-01-2020 / Arnaud Debilly / Southbound 4 / full days'''

We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there.
To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo. We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.
Then the road ends and starts the path to cross the pass to rupumeica alto. Then you follow the minor road until los Venados. The road is blocked by barriers that we crossed easily. At los Venados the path is clearly private and is along the house of Hector. We met him and his wife and they easily let us go through.
We overcarried water because we feared the lack of drinkable water. Until almost the treeline, you can hear little rivers not too far from the path. We also drunk melted snow at the top so we had enough.
Later in the season, it might be drier (I assume, those little rivers come from the snow melting). The last real rio is just before los venados.
After the forest, the volcanic terrain is very easy to walk in and the landscapes are wonderful.
We saw many smokes from the volcanic activity but seemed not dangerous.
Check the status of the volcano before to go (www.sernageomin.cl).
Following the track, it is easy to go between the lava field.
Campsites are absolutely great, with an amazing view on the vulcano.
We felt an earthquake (5,2) that has been localized near san martin de los andes in Argentinia but it made nothing dangerous with the volcano, luckily.
We have had a perfect blue sky without wind during the 2 days on top, it could not have been better.
The refugio El Caulle, at the start of the downhill can be a good protection for a bad weather. We found a little spring, to resupply water in the dry rio just under the refugio.
On the volcanic terrain, a bad weather changes everything and it must be really difficult and unpleasant to finish this section with rain, snow or wind and without the view.
It was for us the most wonderful section we have had until today.

* '''January 2020 / The Puyehue Traverse - GPT19'''

Okay. This is my first conditions report. I walked the Puyehue Traverse with my parents over the last week. It is basically the last part of GPT19, starting on the rd to Héctor y Neri's (Los Venados)(phone beforehand to secure permission : +569 81868927). Let me know if I should structure it differently in the future.

Getting to the Los Venados from Osorno
We caught the bus first to Rio Blanco, another to Largo Ranco. We then lucked out that the Riñinahue bus happened to be passing through! I think this is only once a day and goes all the way to the turn off to Cruce Pichico (3.8km from the turnoff to Los Venados). Again we were lucky and managed to hitch a ride (with two anthropologists!). A car past telling us they (Héctor and Neri) weren't home so we took the bypass - not sure if this is private or not? We made camp by some water for the night.

Up into the park
There is more water available if you're willing to walk off the main track. Numerous times I heard water off to the sides. The first water close to the track was after you pass the national park sign where marked in the section pts. Then above the treeline there are better sources available from the snow melt (better and more numerous later in the day). From the geothermal site we side tripped into the valley for a day and came back along the ridge to the SW. The valley has a lot of streams and some great camp spots. You could even do a shortish 2hr detour to camp in the treeline here. We took some slight variations to the optional hiking route.

Passing the recent lava flow
Rejoining the RR at a lake we followed the wall around camping a night part way along. (met four French ppl hiking the GPT here). There is snow, but no really good water sources until you get to the points marked at the base of Volcán Puyehue (first one here -40.59224, -72.13547).

Climbing the volcano
In short. We didn't. We woke to rain and retreated to the refugio. We spent the day cleaning it. So much rubbish! Carried a load down but there is a lot more if anyone feels like it. It snowed overnight. There was snow down to the refugio at 1400m but only persisted to maybe 1600m. We couldn't see the top of the volcano and in the afternoon, with food running low, decided to bail. The hut has a dunny.

Getting back into Osorno
After waiting three hours for a bus we ended up hitching a ride in una camión. He told us we would have been waiting a long time. Maybe one bus a day. Not really sure. But getting there early is a good idea. Coming down you could camp where the rd starts if you want to save money on lodging. We then caught a bus back into Osorno.

* '''24-Jan-2020 Tom & Maddie'''
Regular route SOBO starting from 37km, 1 day and nero.
Incredible section! We had no particular issues. It is possible to collect some water along the traverse after Hector and Neri’s property, however no reliable water sources are available until after the pass. There are some small streams flowing from the snow at the top so finding water is not impossible. We carried 3L per person and it was the right amount of water, including a side trip to the summit not on a track listed in the files. I would recommend doing the whole traverse in one day due to the limited water and the exposed nature of the area. Good weather is preferable, not just for the amazing views but also for safety reasons. The refuge at the other end of the pass is quite nice and a good place to spend the night.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==
*Recommend (Nov 2024 Mo) after finishing: Cabanas in Entre Lagos, really nice people, cabana and price: Janeth +56963133356

*Small supermarket in Curriñe opening times in April 2024:
Lunes a sabado: 9:00-13:30, 15:00-20:00
Domingos y festivos: 10:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00
Shop owner Antonio might be able to find accomodation with a lovely local family for 10k peso a night per person.

* Small supermarket and frutaria in Curriñe in between section 17 and 18. Has everything for a resupply. Haven't checked for gas.

*Nothing in Rupumeica. Little shops in Maqueo and Maihue. A lot of camping sites, free and payable, along the Lago Maihue.

* 2023 -round trip from south / Louis, Rémi & Noé :
Santiago has a restaurant, near the road and a refuge (waypoint refuge no water). You have to check in at the restaurant to pay the 15k CLP /pers. This price includes a night in the refuge (there is nobody in there), access to volcano and a night at the camping near the restaurant (with cold shower for free).

To Restaurant El Caulle on RR - 32km - +1300m/-2400m. The restaurant was closed when we arrived (a Monday at 7pm). Santiago selled us basic food (pasta, sauce, eggs (a bit expensive)) and he opened the doors of his barn for us to sleep dry. The only bus going down from here to Osorno leaves at 7:30am.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==
*2025 / Antoine
Futrono: several supermarkets, most open on Sundays. But they didn't have screw-type gas canisters. I was lucky to find one at Ferretería O'Higgins Futrono +56 9 6122 5722 (opened just for me, nice guy)
Anticura accomodation:Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]).
Camping (18k CLP, rudimentary, basic showers/WC) and cabanas (with kitchenette, up to 6, 70k CLP onsite (2025)).
Restaurant is nice. About 14-18k CLP for meat/fish main.

*2025 / Peggy
Cabañas en Entre Lagos: Contact Janet (+56963133356)

*2023 / Anna & Christopher
Stayed at Hector qnd Neri Refugio for the night.

*2020 / Martina & Ivo
In Anticura we found accommodation, but we didn't look for resupply, which is probably not so easy...
*2024 / Quentin Clavel
There's basic ressuply in Anticura, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. Olivia is a very kind woman and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.

I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !

There's a possibility to eat at the restaurant of the lodge/cabanas/camping, KM0,00 of the section (Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]). Nice food, good atmosphere. About 14-18k CLP for meat/fish main.
They also have camping (18k CLP, rudimentary, basic showers/WC) and cabanas (with kitchenette, up to 6, 70k CLP onsite (2025)).

End of the section is easy to find camping / small mini market and even restaurant/food truck (in between Maqueo and Puerto Maihue (if you go further in Curriñe, there's bigger minimarket, easier o resupply there).

*2020 / Arnaud Debilly
We ressuplied in Curiñe, with a minimatket there.
We slept in the cabañas of Carmen Panguilef (+56 984 54 83 03) in rupumeica bajo who is very welcoming and a proud mapuche.

WATER :
NO WATER at the first refuge down the volcano, you got to go a little bit further up and west. "Water 12?" wasnt working when I was though, but there was a last stream after before going west to the desert ( at the div 128).You have a good half day of walking without water, so take some supply with you. The water comes back just before the div 126, on a place which looks like a dry lake, with little streams coming down some frozen snow.
There is another part without water, that begins a little after Div 126 until the refuge of Neri and Hector. I personnaly thought easy to find water in the forest and got really thirsty because of that. There was nobody in the refuge, so I could find water a few meters after the north gate of the house, following a little trail that went on the right side, directly in the forest and to the river. (A little bit of bush bashing at the end, next to the river). Further on the road down there was some other rivers and there and good camping sites. You join the real road at bridge 63 and no problems of water after.

=Transport to and from Route=
* 2025 / Antoine B
Night bus Santiago to Futrono (22.20 - ~11.00, 20k CLP), then bus towards Rupumeica (not sure where it ends) at 13.15 (Sunday), ~ 3k CLP

* 2025 / Peggy
If you don't want to do the Gpt20, you can contact Janet to organize a ride to Las Gaviotas (+56963133356) she has also cabañas in Entre Lagos

*2024 / Matthias de Austria
Bus coming from Futrono to Rupumeica, stop in Curriñe, next to GPT01 end, at 14:15, 17:30, 18:45, 20:00. No buses in the forenoon! Don't know about buses on weekends.
Direct bus to Valdivia, passing through Futrono, from Curriñe at 6:55 and 8:55. In the afternoon there's another bus to Futrono.

*2023 / Martin & Helena
Bus to Osorno and Entre Lagos as well leaves early in the morning around 7 AM we think but rather ask.

* 2023 / Anna & Christopher
From Panguipulli we took a bus at 8:40 am to Los Lagos (on a thursday). From there we took another bus to Paillaco at 11:30 am and got off at the cruce Reumén/Futrono. The connecting bus to Futrono passed there around 12:20 pm. From Futrono we took a bus to Llifén at 13:15 pm. From there we hitchhiked until the junction of Option 2 with the RR at km 37 approx.

*2021/ Molly and Melissa
We went from Osorno to Puyehue, as the bus driver said that no buses went any further. From there we were quickly able to hitch a ride to Lican which is the start of the minor road.

*2020 / Arnaud Debilly
To avoid the 15 first kilometers we took the bus from puerto Maihue to Rupumeica Bajo.

*2021 / Molly and Melissa
On the road along the lake we were passed by a bus going to Valdivia which we jumped on happily, so coming off the trail could not have been easier. It passed through Maihue and Futrono as well.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

*You have to pay the entry of the private property in Lican, at the camping/restaurant of the base of the volcano (10 000 CLP). The owner is called Santiago.
* (2025-12-01) Erwin asked 5k CLP to use the RR trail at Neri & Hector's house (they were not present and from other reports it seems like they didn't ask for that fee).

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT19 - Volcán Puyehue]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354781.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354783.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354857.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354866.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354871.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354758.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354765.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354768.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354769.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_13_Volcán_Puyehue_109354773.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

GPT18 (Lago Pirihueico)

2026-02-17T20:01:22Z

Ben McLuckie: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT17H (Liquine)

2026-02-17T19:59:34Z

Ben McLuckie: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
You need to be logged in to save your edits (and on mobile view, you need to be logged in to start editing).

Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:

<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

* ''' GPT17 | 2026-02-08 to 2026-02-09 I 1 day | hiking | SOBO I Route: RR - Variant D - RR | Michaela '''

Day 1: After finishing section 16, I bought some snacks in Liquiñe, had a breakfast break there, and continued around 10:30 am with section 17.
I did not see anyone to pay the entrance fee for Laguna Ancacoihue, so I continued without paying. The lagoon was beautiful, even with fog. I was alone there, even though it was Sunday.
The rest of the day was very easy trail - (I took variant D).
I camped at Pozo de Oro (-39.872986, -71.852107), which was a great campsite. There were some people on the beach, but they soon left by boat and I had the whole place to myself.

Day 2: It rained all night. Short hike to Puerto Fuy, still in rain. It took a little more than one hour. I stayed at Hostel Andalue: 25.000 CLP.

Attractiveness: 3/5, Difficulty: 1/5

''' GPT17/2026-1-2/1 day/SOBO/RR and variant B/Denis, Robert'''

Many resupply spots in Liquiñe.
Really nice trail to Laguna Ancacoigue. We didn’t pay any fees to entry. Nice camping spots after Laguna. Easy going route, sometimes bit overgrown but nothing serious.
Good shops in Puerto Fuy.

Attractiveness 2/5
Difficulty 1/5

*''' 2025.25.12 to 2025.26.12 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Kris, Stiina and Bailey'''

Day 3 - (Continued from section 16)
After a few refreshments in Liquine we continued hiking all the way up to Laguna Corazon (Laguna Ancacoihue). Bailey managed to get a ride up to the junction with Variant C and saved himself a boring road walk.
We probably could have sneaked past and not pay the entrance fee but we went in at the reception and paid 3k CLP pp. The guy working/living there was very nice and filled up our water bottles.

We camped by the lake here -39.77618, -71.86933 where the official trail that is maintained ends, with sign stating that. The camp by the lake was very nice with some tables and benches. However there aren’t alot of places for tents - one proper space for 1 tent and then a few smaller spaces for one person tent. We had our 2 person tent and Bailey had his one person tent and we managed.
Further along the lake there is a campsite marked on the osm and it seems to have been an established campsite at some point, also with tables and benches, a fireplace and some flat places for the tents but a slightly more longer access to the lake.
To get to the further campsite and to pretty much continue on the RR don’t follow the gpx unless you enjoy a proper obstacle course with the final boss being a difficult barbed wire fence. Stay right on the coast of the lake behind the table with a bench and walk over some partially submerged logs which let you get to the other side of the barbed wire fence with a perfect trail immediately on the other side.
Lots of bird songs in the evening, no cows or cow poo anywhere. Water in the lake very clear and nice temperature, however the bottom of the lake very muddy and will murk up the water if you step in it.
As soon as the sun set the frog choir went mad and it was quite the performance they were putting on all night long until the sunrise. Bring earplugs if you’re a light sleeper.

Day 4 - We woke up in a cloud and it soon started raining. The rain continued until about midday and at some points it was borderline torrential rain, really heavy soaking is throughout.
Once past the barbed wire fence the trail was mostly very good, almost a minor road or an old bridleway. We took the RR all the way, though Variant D looked more groomed, Bailey took variant D (by accident) and confirmed it was good, the RR was just a bit more overgrown with some fallen tree obstacles and probably a bit slower, next time I would go with variant D.
Like mentioned in the comments before there were quite a few junctions along the way, leading who knows where (not on any of the map layers) so keep an eye on your nav. Following the red plastic/rubber “Huilo huilo” bird worked, though it would sometimes go a different way than the RR.
I think one could definitely camp by Lago Quilmo. There is a big and new looking nature sign by “Reserva Biologica Huilo Huilo” with different symbols, none prohibiting camping or fires. One of the symbols was Estacionamento, probably for whoever comes with a car there, fishermen?

The rain ceased around the time we got to the pass, right after the Bridge, Camp {17H} [25.0/1212], the bridge along the gpx had collapsed but someone had built a simple new bridge a bit lower down. That’s also when the mostly good trail ended and mostly eroded by rain trail started. It wasn’t great but it also wasn’t terrible.
The trail from Pozo de Oro to Puerto Fuy is mostly alright but also as mentioned before it is not exactly following the gpx, and had a few confusing junctions as to which way to go. Where the gpx goes a sharp down back towards the lake we went up along the gully and then once on the other side of it there is a confusing t-junction we went down for 20m and picked up a good also the correct trail. The rest was more or less straightforward, there was an easy to climb gate here -39.86952, -71.87945 and when we got to Puerto Fuy following the minor road which deviated from the gpx there was a closed get to enter the town but 50m along the fence towards the lake there was an opening to go through.
Puerto Fuy had plenty of small shops we found at least 5 and many places to eat, even a “food court” right across the harbour. We took 5pm bus to Panguipulli 4.5k CLP pp.

Continuing next the sections 19-22.

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

==Season 2024/25==

15-APR-2025 to 16-APR-2025 / 2 days / hiking / NOBO / RR / Ben, Stephanie

Route from Puerto Fuy to Liquiñe. Pretty hike through Huilo Huilo Biological Preserve

Great camping on the southwest shore of the unnamed lake at 18.2km and south of Laguna Ancacohue, aka the Heart Lake.

* '''2025-02-17 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / RR+own route / Dorota'''

From Reyehueico to Liquine I took lift. I needed to leave dog unfortunately. Liquine is very nice village with a lot of shops and cafaterias/bar. Laguna Corazón espectacular, paid entrance fee. Trail in forest very easy but there were not a lot of water beginning from laguna corazón. At Laguna Quilmo refugio was destroyed. All way from Liquine followed me another dog till Puerto Fuy. After Laguna Quilmo I took another route using osm, but I can not recommended because of lack of the water. In Puerto Fuy I took camp for 10.000 clp, big one with guard. A lot of place and river. Puerto Fuy has some shops but more bars and restaurantes. Next day decided took buses to reach stage 19. Buses: Puerto Fuy-Panguipulli-Los Lagos-Futrono-Liffen. I started at 9.00 and at 16 I was in Llifen. In bus stop at Los Lagos you can charge electrónica. At Llifen night in Posada de Tourista for 30.000 clp with breakfast (high sezon). Place very nice, WiFi. In liffen some shops and lot of restaurants.

* '''2025-02-17 to 2025-02-19 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Peggy

This short section is very easy. I arrived in Liquiñe via Route 16 in the afternoon. There are various options for food and shopping.

I left around 5 PM towards Laguna Ancacoihue (Laguna Corazón). I managed to get a ride to the entrance of the road leading to the lake. At that time, many tourist cars were going down, but few were going up, so I was lucky to be picked up by locals.

Laguna Corazón is definitely worth a visit. It is stunning, with lots of animal sounds. I arrived just as the last visitors were leaving. I didn’t pay an entrance fee because I didn’t meet anyone at the bottom, but otherwise, the cost is 3,000 CLP.

I set up my tent at the spot with tables (watch out for cows coming to drink!). There is another campsite further into the forest with a cooking area for making fires.

The trail down, which partially circles the lake, is beautiful and offers a great experience of the Valdivian forest. For me, this was the most scenic part of the hike.

I spent the second night at Pozo del Oro, where I arrived early. A woman was there for the afternoon. It’s a perfect spot for swimming, doing laundry, and making a fire in the evening. The place is pleasant and beautiful (a few ferries and boats passed by, but it’s not a highway!). However, like everywhere (including Europe!), there was a lot of toilet paper left behind.

The next morning, I headed down to Puerto Fuy, hoping to take the ferry to Route 18. However, all tickets were sold out for the day. The only option was to return at 5 AM the next morning to try and buy a ticket for later in the day. I decided to skip it and took a series of buses to Route 19 instead (Panguipulli–Los Lagos–Paillaco–Futrono–Llifén). I left Puerto Fuy around 1:30–2 PM and arrived in Llifén around 8 PM. The connections were smooth.

* '''2025-01-08 / 1 day / SOBO / RR Packrafting / Mara and Tobias

Beautiful floating! No dangerous streamers or rapids in the river. We boiled the water before drinking, since there are many cows and we saw settlers doing their laundry by the river. We could not cross Lago Neltume because of strong winds.

* ''' 2025-JAN-07 > 08 / 1 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT14+GPT15+GPT16+GPT17+GPT18+GPT19
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : plutot rare
| Neige : non
| Intérêt : 2/5
| Difficulté : 0/5
| Danger : aucun

J'ai essayé de faire du stop mais personne ne s'est arreté alors j'ai acheté un peu de nourriture et suis allé dejeuner au restaurant a Liquine.
Il faut prendre la 17H-D au km 15,7 car la RR est en mauvais etat.
Le sentier est bien balisé et en parfait état partout ailleurs. Pas de refuge au km 18,2, il y a un pont au km 21,9, pas de place pour camper au km 25,0 ni au 27,5. Pas de porte au km 34,4. Ce n'est pas une rain forest, il n'y a pas de boue ni de zone humide. Il n'y a que de petites epiceries a Puerto Fuy.

*'''2025-JAN-04 to 2025-JAN-05 / 1 day / Hiking / SOBO / Var. 12-01, RR + OH (Var. B, C) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

A simple and short section featuring wild and very dense Valdivian forests. Worth mentioning are two beautiful lakes, Lago Quilmo and Lago Pirihueico.

We left Carriñe Bajo around noon, heading toward Liquiñe via variant {17H-B}, where we resupplied at a shop. Liquiñe has several shops, all fairly well-stocked. We began ascending and, around kilometer 11, left the RR route for variant {17H-C}, rejoining the RR at Camp Without Water {17H} [15.8/917]. Lago Quilmo is truly beautiful and surrounded by dense forest. Surprisingly, there were no mosquitoes.

The trail to Lago Pirihueico is well-maintained and beautifully designed. For the first time, we even saw fir trees here. At Ford {17H} [21.9/994], we didn’t need to ford the river, as there’s a small bridge.

Upon arriving at the crystal-clear Lago Pirihueico, we found a lovely spot with a picnic table, fire pit, and a perfect bivouac area at coordinates -39.87309, -71.85218. The remainder of the route to Puerto Fuy follows a picturesque trail with occasional views of the lake.

*'''29Dec2024 - 30dec2024 / hiking SOBO / RR - varD - RR / 1.5 days / Clara'''

Bus from coñaripe to liquiñe 2x/day except sunday no one. You can ask schedules in the supermarkets of coñaripe.

Short and easy section, nice forest and lakes.

Camp :
- at km10 nice camping 6500/pers.

- Pozo de oro. Table, flat spot, nice to swim in the lake. Good water flowing in the river just beside.

(I don't know why there is no camp at laguna quilmo but seems to be used and should be nice to camp.)

Navigation : MR until km12, can hitchhike if lucky.
Then good trail or old road, often marked with red huilo-huilo birds, easy.

Then not hard to skip 18. Took me about half a day taking multiple buses (puerto fuy - panguipulli - los lagos - paillaco - futrono - llifen), maybe a bit longer on WE with less buses.

* '''24-12-26- 24-12-27/ 1,5 days / SOBO / RR/ Volker'''

The forest section - beautiful, short and smooth
Day 1: I took buses from Pucon to Villarica to Panguipulli to Liquine, arrived there in the late afternoon. I bypassed the entrance gate for Laguna Curazon by walking over the steep meadow to the left of the MR (though probably at 6.30 p.m. there was nobody anyway). Camped close to the end of this meadow, hidden from the farm below by a tree. Lovely place!
Day 2: Started very early to avoid possible conflicts as I camped so close to the farm. Laguna Curazon magic at 7 a.m. The first 50 around the lake a bit tricky, the water level is higher than on the OSM and you have to climb a small canyon and bypass a barbed wire fence to get on the trail. Very impressing trees, plants and a second lake. But use your device, there are many paths and MRs. Later you more or less walk the km down. 2 indicated „bridges“ either destroyed or very special „bridges“, nevertheless easy. Bridge at the indicated ford. Down at Laguna Perihueico I had enough time for swimming. But notice, that the way to Puerto Fuy is not along the lake, it‘s up and down, moreover I had some navigation problems. The track files do not correspond to the actual trail (partly ca. 70m away, first south, later north). Follow the signs with the red rubberbird („Huilo Huilo“). I took the 5 p.m. ferry (last one) to Perihueico. Didn‘t see a shop for resupply in Puerto Fuy, in Perihueico definitively just restaurants. Walked until the indicated camp spot on the beach at the end of the packraft route (first broken trees, soon easy MR) and camped there to start gpt 18 the next day.

* '''Start 2024-11-20/ 2d / Hiking SOBO RR / Mo'''

Resupply in Liquine, hot MR to trail to Laguna Corazon, then MR/trail that should be completely cleared to Puerto Fuy. Resupply in small supermarkets there. Camping should be possible at the beach. Ferry 2x/d.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''2024-Mar-29 to 2024-Mar-31 / 2 days / SOBO / B RR D / Matthias de Austria'''

Short and easy section. Some nice lakes and hiking through dense valdivian rain forest. No tabanos nor mosquitos, snowfields or wet feet fords. Parts might be muddy after heavy rainfall. Limited water beside lakes. No water at water? 20.3/942 no gate at 17.4/985

Gate 12.0/801: Entry fee 3k. Toilet there, waste bin and some benches with volcano view. Possible camp at -39.777226,-71.870598 close to laguna Ancacoihue/Corazon, which has quite sediment rich water.

Camped inside the hut at -39.797914,-71.848616 due to rainy forecast. No direct access to the lake there, but a 5min walk south at lake, no camp 18.2/978. Don't know why no camp here, I think there is plenty of space and no forbidden sign around. Possible to swim but first 2m grown shore, then suddenly very deep. Refuge 18.2/978 burned down.

First water from stream at -39.824602,-71.851464, there is also a bridge at -39.824787,-71.851347
Don't miss junction at -39.826732,-71.848505, you have to turn right to the bad road otherwise you will walk to laguna chan chan.

I put a log on ford 31.0/610 for dry feet crossing. Plenty of campsides around, fireplaces, a table...lake is the best for swimming, easy access, clean almost warm water end of March.

Next to water 34.0/646 a camp should be possible.

Shortly before Puerto Fuy don't follow the road, it leads to a locked gated at -39.870979,-71.889116. Or do so, then just walk a minute along the fence direction to the lake until there is a easy to walk through whole in the fence.

* '''2024-03-06 // 1 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR + variant B // Quentin Clavel'''

From Puerto Fuy, it's a smooth hike until liquine, where the trail is easy to follow.

At PK 13,7 you'll reach Laguna ancacoihue, that has been transformed into a tiny and cute touristic hike, because of the heart formed by this Laguna. So you'll probably see some people walking threw this "Laguna Corrazon" to/from the end of the gravel road PK 12.
During these 2 kilometers, the trail is very well marked and indicated, there's even ramps to helps you to go up/down. An amazing Mirador has been setup as well with sick view on the volcanoes Villarica end Lanin. Nice place indeed !

As I came nobo, I haven't had to pay anything, but probably going SOBO, you'll pass the entrance of this hike first (at the end of the gravel road) and have to pay to access here.

Then after 10 kilometers on a gravel road, you'll reach the asphalt and arrive in liquine.
I passed threw the "center" where there's at least one hospedaje, few minimarkets, place to eat and few thermals.

After a necessary stop at the panadería/café for some dulces and fresh fruits juice (Variant B, passing threw the city) I continued my way to the next section.

* '''2024-Jan-20 to 2024-Jan-21 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / {17H-A} - {17H-B} - RR - {17H-D} - RR / Lilian'''

{17H-A} km0 : Settlement, shop[66.5/237] : small shop, a little pricey but good stock for resupply, very friendly. ( I think the shops in Liquiñe is much pricey too)

Km1.55 : two tiny shops here. (-39.70430, -71.86316)

Then i joined RR.

RR km0.95 : tiny shop. (-39.71282, -71.85403)

Km1.95 : tiny shop. (-39.72135, -71.85373)

Then i take {17H-B} keep going on the main road.

{17H-B} km0.55 : two small shop and one tiny shop just beside the "Liquiñe" waypoint. Lot of food resupply options, also some restaurants nearby.

Km1.3 : junction of RR and {17H-B}, a tiny shop here(-39.74016, -71.85511), if you want to cross Río Liquiñe to hot spring, it is the correct place. Ask the staff in shop, and they'll find somebody to row the boat for you.

RR ferry[5.7/237] : if noone here, ask at the tiny shop beside the road. As they said, looks like the earliest time for rowing boat is 9:30am, until maybe 8pm? Because i crossed here at 8pm. I'm not sure how much for the boat, maybe 500 CLP, but i paid 1000 CLP because I arrived here too late, and the guy need to go to some place else for finding the key to unlock the boat for me.

Walking on a clear path to Termas Punulaf. The price for camping in 2024 is 20,000 CLP. The hot spring looks like a swimming pool, that of course hot spring water, with perfect temperature. About the camping, picnic table, light, a line for hanging clothes, sandy spot, toilet and covered by a shelter.

Soaking the hot spring in early morning, sit beside the inlet for relaxing, it makes a good start of a new day!

It is the HIGHLIGHT of GPT16's ending or start of GPT17, don't miss it!

Km6.3 : tiny shop(-39.74271, -71.85464).

Lucky me, get two rides from X,shop[7.1/308] to gate[12.0/801] directly!

Km10.95 : bus stop, maybe bus comes to here?

Gate[12.0/801] : talk with a young guy at here, register some basic information but no fee need to pay, he also fill up my water bottle, thank you to him!

From here to km13.4(Laguna Ancacoihue), steep climb up but very easy to follow, just follow some red sticks to go, lot of benches for rest, handrail if you need and some nice viewpoint platforms. The viewpoint at (-39.77073, -71.86505), beautiful platform with Chile flag, background are Volcán Villarrica, Lanín and the valley of Liquiñe, such a amazing picture!

When you arrive Laguna Ancacoihue maybe a little confused where is the trail to go. Trail is under blowdowns now for a few meters. Walk a little close to the lake(no need wet feet) and go around the fence that covered by blowdowns, a nice trail(road) is beside the fence.

After you follow the road walking about 5-10 min, you'll find some Red Bird sign(Huglo Huglo) and white red print at tree. They'll leads you to the Lago Quilmo(km17.4), follow them! If you see a white red print "X", it means "this is a wrong way".

Km13.7 : camping spot with fire ring, log sests, benches, picnic table. Still some more flat spots in 100m south.

Km15.6 : junction of RR and {17H-C}, a white red print "X" and lot sticks are put on the way to north.

Km15.8 : junction of RR and {17H-D}, RR is blocked by many huge blowdowns, Red Bird and white red print is at {17H-D}, also the road looks clear, so go for it.

{17H-D} km0.1 : sky blue ribbon start, it'll leads you the way too.

Km1.45 : Junction. Red Bird and white red print at left side go around the lake at east side, sky blue ribbon at right follow RR at west side. Go for RR.

Rejoin RR, and there are some blowdowns on RR at here too, i think {17H-D} is replaced RR completely.

Gate RR[17.4/995] : no gate.

Km18.05 : an empty hut(-39.79772, -71.84869) without door and windows, wooden floor is in good condition and clean. Looks like can used for staying away from bad weather.

Refuge[18.2/978] : The cabin? Hut? Is already burnt down. Just leave a burn out area and and an empty small hut, but lot of trash and dirty inside. The hut at previous is much better.

Lake,no camp[18.2/978] : at least five fire pit here...in a very small area. Why don't people just use other's old pit? Burning another green area is fun?

The water condition at here is better than Laguna Ancacoihue.

Km18.45 : four way junction, met Red Bird and white red print agian, but we still follow the sky blue ribbon.

X[18.9/1016] : junction to Laguna Chan Chan, Red Bird and white red print on the way to Laguna Chan Chan, follow sky blue ribbon and turn right here.

X[19.9/927] : sky blue ribbon go right. New colour, orange ribbon go left for RR. No more sky blue ribbon on your hike.

Water?[20.3/942] : no water here.

Ford[21.9/994] : beautiful water! A bridge here now. Crystal clear swimming pool at just downstream, nice spot for hot day. Some huge blowdowns help you go down to the pool.

Km23.15 : Red Bird again, follow it and orange ribbon all the way to Pozo de Oro.

Bridge,camp[25.0/1212] : bridge for cars already broken, just left a exciting log here. Better turn right go down for board bridge crossing. I didn't see any flat or camping spot. Water flowing slowly.

Km25.9 : views of Volcán Mocho (very little).

Km26 : road turns to a single track trail gradually.

Bridge,camp[27.5/1026] : bridge for cars already broken too. Cross by a log bridge now. Water flowing good and slowly. Grassland can fit 1-2 tents before go down for the crossing.

After some forest tunnel, you'll arrive Pozo de Oro, camping spot can fit many tents covered by tall trees, with fire ring, benches and picnic table. Also it is close to the lake.

Ford[31.0/610] : dry feet crossing, another crossing after here 100m, above ankle, or you can log crossing at 30m downstream.

Lake,camp[31.1/672] : sandy spot can fit 1 tent under a tree with lake views, i met some friendly locals driving their boat to here when i camped at weekends. Sleep with the peacey lake wave is great!

Keep follow Red Bird and orange ribbon for a little more.

Km31.4 : three way junction, DON'T follow orange ribbon climb up at right side, going straight on left side.

Km31.5 : three way junction, RR is turn left going down, OSM have a trail going right climb up for short cut. RR is in better condition, but OSM one is also good condition and much shorter. It'll connect RR at km31.75. And Red Bird start here.

Km31.75 : four way junction, if you follow OSM trail, turn right and climb up. If you follow RR, go straight and climb up.

After about 300m, Red Bird and white red print again! You can follow them, but they are not so frequently like before, also will disappear after a while.

Water[34.0/646] : grassland can fit 1-3 tents before the beautiful water, it is flowing low but clear and taste good. After here, trail becomes a dirt road.

Km34.3 : The wooden platform that Coline & Hermann slept still in progress about 70%, have windows and door, already locked up.

Km34.5 : huge flat area beside the beach under some trees, (car) camping spot.

Bridge[34.9/630] : log bridge crossing, (car) camping spot about 50m before it.

Km35.0 - km35.2: Camping Gratis, huge beautiful grassland (car) camping spot, i saw about 20 cars and many tents at Sunday morning. Spot covered by trees is loved by cars, hiker better camping at km35.2, no trees and car campers don't like it.

Km35.3 : some more (car) camping spot here, close to beach.

About the ferry and time schedule in 2024,

Tourist information center (-39.87183, -71.88962), you can buy the ferry tickets to Puerto Pirehueico at here, 1150 CLP one way. They also help me charging the power bank, super thank you to them!

Ferry from Puerto Fuy to Puerto Pirehueico:
Monday(07:00,13:30,18:00), Tuesday to Thursday(09:00,13:30,18:00), Friday(07:00,12:30,17:00), Saturday and Sunday(08:00,12:30,17:00)

Ferry from Puerto Pirehueico to Puerto Fuy:
Monday(09:00,16:00,20:30), Tuesday to Thursday(11:30,16:00,20:30), Friday(09:00,15:00,19:30), Saturday and Sunday(10:30,15:00,19:30)

Resupply in Puerto Fuy,

(-39.87320, -71.89134), (-39.87307, -71.89179), (-39.87373, -71.89390), (-39.87373, -71.89551), (-39.87375, -71.89775) : five tiny shops, combine together it is enough to resupply.

It is a tourist town, so lot of accommodation here, cabins or campground. Also some nice restaurants too.

When you are waiting the ferry, you can go for a boat tour, kayak trip, or take a nap on the beach under a big tree(-39.87178, -71.88877) like me.

* '''2024-Jan-13 to 2024-Jan-14 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Yannick & Nolwenn'''

- Water : easy to find
- Camping spot : at km 31,1 really nice camp on the lac with a table
- Weather : Sunny and cloudy
- Resupply : we had ressuply in conaripe, also possible in Linquine
- Entry fee : at km 12 we had to pay 3000 pesos to use the track to the Laguna del Corazon
Easy section

* '''2024-05-01 / 1,5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR from Liquine Alto / Jens '''

Easy walk on forest road and single trail for the last 20km. I was a bit confused by the different trails. The right one was not always the most beaten one.
The ferry schedule at El fuy has changed. It is now 8 am. Timetable in the article of section 18.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-jan-27 to 2023-jan-29 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RH + Laguna Chan Chan / Coline & Hermann'''

After sleeping on a wooden platform nearby at work-in-progress house at some 1km after the gratis camping of Puerto Fuy (nice view on the lake, the city and the volcano Mocho Choshuenco), we walked northbound on the regular route of the GPT17.

It is also still possible to camp on a tiny beach which the trail reaches (Camp {18-F} [1.2/672]). From there, it took us time to find the trail, because it actually required to... walk on a tweenty meters long fallen tree !

It seems possible to avoid this, by following the path marked with red bird signs.

During the sloapse after, the road turns into a 4x4 road, where you may meet some cyclists going southbound – fast as arrows !

We arrived at the crossroad (the one either following the trail or going to the lake Chan-Chan) at the end of the day, after 1000m up in altitud, and found a place to sleep on the way up, inbeetween two rivers.

The next day, we stopped several hours at the beautiful volcano lake, where one's can make fire nearby the wooden tables. The clear water is not deep, which makes it perfect for sitting and refershing – surrounded by the mountains.

We went back on the GPT, and noticed that the refuge at the arrival to the lake Quilmo has burned.

It is less attractive to swim there because of the vegetation. It is even more the case for the lake which takes place north-east of the optional road of the GPT (OH-TL-V {17H-D} [0.0+1.5]). However, it was nice to see so many lakes during this section !

Actually, the last one – the laguna Anacoihue – was the cutest one. As you see on the map, it's in shape of a heart ! There is a camping place on the west side, where you can make fire and leave your stuff to walk to the "mirador" at the inner point of the heart (at the sunset, for example).

The next day, we walked the way down to Liquiñe in the morning. There are wooden sculptures, benches and games for (little and grown-up) kids, until one's reaches the plains. From there, we could see the volcano Villarica, which was smoking (so maybe avoid to go to the glacier Pichillancahue or even at the summit of the volczno, if you plan doing the GPT16-04 after... Or at least, have a look on RED).

We could easily resupply at Liquiñe and even found bottles of gas (Pro-Gas) in the "fereteria" some 200m down the main road (Ruta 201 CH), after it crosses the road leading to the Termas Trafipan, in front of a white building.

The hot springs marked on the map are now "infrastructured" (so to say), which means they are not for free anymore, but also that you can charge your phone (for free if asking) and/or spend the night (for 15 to 25mil pesos / person / night) and enjoy the swimming pools.

In fact, we were told (after) that there is a natural hot spring only known by inhabitants.

* '''2023-Jan-31 to 2023-Feb-01 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 17h-C / Maks & Gabi '''

Nice and easy trail even though the ascent on the beginning which follows dirty road with a lot of cars.
We took OH 17h-C which is not worth it, there is a new gate on the way, and when we tried to go through the forest there were lots of fences.
Than as written below the trail is marked and well maintained. We were doing RR, and it wasn't owergrown anywhere ( there is only one place somewhere around km 32 of RR when it's more worth to follow red bird sign than GPS navi, they are connecting once again after 100m)
We were sleeping at Camping gratis in Puerto Fuy, it was ok, but there is a lot of homeless dogs and it's quite a lot of people and noise during the night. Puerto Fuy is a quite big and there are many buses (almost every hour ) to Panguipulli.

* '''2023-Jan-29 to 2023-Jan-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Laguna Chan Chan / Will '''

Amazing section, don't skip it! Just make sure to take the openstreetmap route by Laguna Chan Chan instead of the main route.

I camped at the Termas de Punulaf after arriving via section 12. 15000 pesos, somewhat quiet, with some swimming pool style hot springs. Even a little restaurant. In the morning I walked along the field down to the river, where a kid rowed me across into town (500 pesos). Lots of shops for resupply.

The road walk up to the Laguna Corazon (aka Ankacoihue) trailhead would have been rough, thankfully I was blessed with a ride most of the way up. At the trailhead you'll find a nice lodge/cafe where I had to register and pay 2500 to hike to the lake. It's a cute trail, complete with benches and art and motivational signs. Great views of the valley.

After Laguna Corazon you'll end up on the Huilo Huilo trail, where you can follow the red bird trail markers all the way to Puerto Fuy along well maintained trail and dirt roads. Though the park's route seems to diverge from the main route twice, following variant D and the trail to Laguna Chan Chan.

Variant D looked to be a well maintained (slightly bland) road, vs the main route which is an old road in the process of being reclaimed by the forest. Currently the main route's still not bad walking.

The trail approaching Laguna Chan Chan from the north was a highlight: thin, slower, steeper, more intimate. It eventually merges onto a dirt road heading down from the lake and west. The main route here was a plain gravel road (I went the wrong way along it for a few km).

There's well maintained campsites with picnic tables and everything at Laguna Corazon/Ankacoihue, Laguna Chan Chan, and at Pozo de Oro near the end.

The ferry at Puerto Fuy was sold out all day by the time I got there around noon.

==Season 2021/22==

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / RR + Lago Chanchan / Matthieu '''

Another part of the Huilo Huilo parc, no entry fees in this sens. Nice for the forest walkers the like flowers and calm.
Tracks well maintained in the form of 4x4 roads, easy to follow (Little red plastic birds sticked on the trees).
I agree with Martina and Ivo on the attractivity of this section. There are a few lakes to see on the way, if you get off the RR, and it is worth the effort. The savage beach just a few kilometers after Puerto Fuy is a paradise to camp.
Liquiñe is a nice place to rest, with camping and thermal water. Lots of shops.

- Lago Chanchan :

Talking to chilean hikers there, the main attraction seems to be the Lago Chanchan, which is actually a lake in a volcano crater, with a little beach, and a wonderful place to camp. I took the detour to go.
From the waypoint "Refugio?" (which is actually the house of Juan, whose mission is just to take the names of the people going south, just for safety if they get lost. No fees, no stress. Juan is really nice and I could enjoy a nice coffee and discussion with him.), I came back going southbound to the Div 108. Then you take the little forest trail, that goes up gor 2-3 hours until the lake Chanchan. It is a little technical trail cutted in the bamboos, but in this sense easy to follow, following the little red birds. Just before the lake there is a Div where you arrive to a 4x4 trail. One road goes north to the lake, and the other one goes south to the "pozo del Oro", and I assume that this trail join the RR between "Bridge, camp2" and "DIV 110" I didnt explore it the next day thow, going back on my tracks by the little bamboo trail because I was initially going northbound. SO there is a path exploitable from the south part of the section, leaving the RR on a minor road, going to the lake Chanchan, and then going back to RR taking this little trail to the Div 108, making your experience really more attractive.

* '''2020-Feb-09 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

Here is our advertisement for this beautiful section: From Liquiñe alto to the beginning of the forest: great view to the volcanoes Villarica and Lanín. Nice trail to the enchanted Laguna Ankacoigüe. Then beginning of the Reserva Biológica Huilo-Huilo Sector Norte: stunningly huge trees and a sudden change of landscape, entering Valdivian rainforest for the first time. Only a short part of minor road between waypoint "lake, no camp" and the highest point of the section. The whole descent to Puerto Fuy is a attractive trail through pretty rainforest with views to the Volcán Choshuenco. 4 km before the village you find this pristine hidden lonely beach, perfect for a last rest before you arrive at busy touristy Puerto Fuy.

Our rating: 3

Don't skip ;-)

* '''2020-Feb-08 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank '''

I met Martina & Ivo on the route & agree with their above comments. This section was an unexpected highlight & the campsite on the lake was the best. When you reach the lake you cross a river then arrive at the campsite which you will probably have to yourself. Avoid the campsites near Puerto Fuy as there are lots of car campers there.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

Liquine: Panderia, pasteria, minishop and cafeteria at 39.741773,-71.855479. I said I take 10 eggs if they cook it hard, they do so for 1k. +3k for the eggs.

In Liquine there are a few small shops. There are also some open air markets, you can get breakfast & lunch there. They open around 10:30 AM. 2 restaurants in Liquine but neither of them was open when I was there (Feb 2020)

There are a few places advertising cabins on the road in to Liquine & as you leave Liquine southbound there are two cheap hotels.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

=Transport to and from Route=

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT17H - Liquiñe]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228012.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT17H - Liquiñe]]
[[File:GP_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228017.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|GPT17H]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228020.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228022.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228023.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228025.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228034.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228011.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228013.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228015.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10-12_Alternative_via_Liquiñe_119228016.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

GPT16 (Volcan Quetrupillan)

2026-02-17T19:57:23Z

Ben McLuckie: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

= How to a add new entry =
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Add a new log entry always on top in the appropriate season sub-chapter and use format:

<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''Start Date to Finish Date (use Format YYYY-MMM-DD) / Duration in Days / Hiking or Packrafting / Travel Direction (SOBO for Southbound or NOBO Northbound) / Chosen Route and/or Option Name (RR for Regular Route) / Names or Alias'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>

If you are packrafting, put the above info into HTML tags like this (if you follow a hiking route for part of the way, highlight only "packrafting", as above):

<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''YYYY-MMM-DD / X days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Your name'''<nowiki>'''</nowiki>.

Include remarks about your route useful for other hikers and packrafters, alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties. Try to be specific. Do not be shy to fix obvious mistakes.

=Overview=

=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==
'''2026-Feb-12 to 2026-Feb-15 / 3.5 days / Hiking / EABO / OH-4, OH-2, RR, Variant A, OH-1 / Emily'''

Beautiful section, easy and clear trail with frequent markers. I hiked with a friend, and while the section could easily be completed more quickly, we found it well worthwhile to take extra time to enjoy the vistas and forest. Recent trip reports reflect current conditions, not much to add.

At Border/Pass {16-01} [40.4/1788] I ascended the hill along the border. Highly recommend - an easy climb for great 270 views of the five volcanoes.

Camps
Night 1: -39.458210, -71.978402. Highly recommend, incredible sunset. Space for 1 tent in trees, with another spot around the corner (with small rock wall) and more potential spots 20m before to the left in a small depression. Estero Nilfe was near dry and opaque, however there was a clear flowing stream shortly before at -39.45496, -71.98198.

Night 2: -39.455667, -71.822334. Along a disused pull-out road, plenty of space and well-protected, next to small river. We checked out Chinay but as per previous reports, it appears semi-abandoned and had an odd vibe. If looking to camp here, follow the road along SOBO after the OSM marker, and you’ll come to a bridge and road. The following morning we passed a better camp spot with picnic table just after the CONAF office {16-04} [31.9/996].

Night 3: Lake, Camp [40.2/1597]. Several spots among the trees. Three other hikers camping here. Some trash around unfortunately.

* ''' GPT16 | 2026-02-05 to 2026-02-08 I 3 days | hiking | SOBO I Route: Option 4 (Villarrica Traverse) - Option 2 - RR | Michaela '''

Day 1: I took an Uber to the Ski Center parking area (8.400 CLP). I forgot to ask the driver to stop at CONAF, but I had already bought the entrance ticket for Parque Nacional Villarrica Norte online the day before (11.000 CLP) - in the end it was never checked. I started hiking at about 10:00. Easy trail with very good views.
I camped at Estero Aihue, nice spot with clear water: -39.476814, -71.885906

Day 2: Easy trails, water available along the route. I registered at "Park Ranger {16-04} [31.9/996] (Chinay)". They did not ask for my entrance ticket. Camped near the waterfall: -39.511992, -71.750355

Day 3: I woke up at 03:30 due to strong wind. I had to secure my tent. The wind continued until morning. The campsite was actually very nice, but not recommended in windy conditions.
I planned to climb Volcán Quetrupillán, but the forecast announced heavy rain soon and I wanted to reach Puerto Fuy, so I skipped the ascent. I reached Laguna Azul before noon. No other people and no trash. I took a swim break. The rest of the trail was straightforward and I saw many interesting birds.
Planned campsite - Camp {16} [62.0/486] - appears to be private property. There is a fence and a locked gate, so I continued. I camped hete: -39.684141, -71.856855 . It's not a perfect spot, but at least hidden, near the MR next to a stream.

Day 4: In the morning my tent was completely wet from condensation. I was super lucky then, I only walked a few minutes , then a car passed and I could hitchhike all the way to Liquiñe. I had breakfast there and continued with Section 17.

Attractiveness: 5/5, Difficulty: 2/5

*'''2026-1-29 to 2024-2-1/ 4 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/opt 4, 2, RR, A, 1/Tomas Martinec'''

A beautiful section that is not too difficult and well marked. I really enjoyed the changing volcanic and forest landscapes.

Day 1
I tried to pre-arrange an Uber the night before, but the price was quite high (14,000 CLP). So I left it for the morning, and the price dropped to 9,500 CLP.
The Uber took me to the ski resort parking lot (39.3816607S, 71.9710225W). We couldn’t go any further because there was a barrier down. However, some cafeteria workers were driving by and kindly took me directly to the beginning of the Villarrica trail.
Be careful — after this water point (39.4358367S, 71.9954842W), the next reliable clean water source is about 15 km later at Estero Aihue.
Campspot: Pichillancahue (39.4685929S, 71.8576455W) – one spot on both sides of the bridge.

Day 2
I met a friendly CONAF worker in Chinay. He warned me that storms were expected from midday. About 100 m after Chinay, there is a nice campsite.
Next water point: 39.4716573S, 71.8263066W
The storm started at 11:00 and finished at 19:00. I stopped walking at 13:00 and waited at the edge of the forest. As I was wet and cold, I decided to set up my tent and stay there for the night.
Campspot: 39.4772464S, 71.8250824W (forest, no water — chosen because of the storm).

Day 3
Nice possible campsite: 39.5030120S, 71.7647070W
Other possible campspots without water:
39.4842887S, 71.8155280W (sheltered by stones)
39.4898674S, 71.7983452W
I had planned to climb Quetrupillán, but when I was passing by, the summit was covered in clouds. So I continued to Laguna Azul.
I had a beautiful night at Laguna Blanca — a really nice place to stay. The only downside was that the water was very still and didn’t look very clean.
Campspot: 39.5393546S, 71.6964447W

Day 4
A very nice walk. It was easy to see all the volcanoes. The trail ends in the forest. I think it’s big advantage to walk this final section with a lighter backpack.
Hitchhiking from Puesco to Currarehue.

<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>'''2026-01-15 to 2026-01-18 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Villarica Traverse / OH 4, OH 3, OH 2, RR, OH A, OH 01 / Lucie Vrat'''<nowiki>* '''</nowiki>

This was my first GPT trail section, and it was absolutely amazing. I had perfect sunny weather, except for strong winds on the final hiking day.
As I went shortly after Greg, the information he provided still applies.

Day 1:
I took an Uber to the ski center for 8,200 CLP. The CONAF office was closed, so I did not register there (I had bought the national park entrance ticket online the day before). As there was no wind, I camped on the plateau about 1 km before Estero Aihue [24 km]— definitely a very nice place to spend the night and take water.

Day 2:
I descended to the CONAF station at Chinay and then continued up to Mirador Los Pinos. I slept cowboy-style at an unofficial spot shortly before Camp Estero Mocho [31.2 km] - another really nice place to stay with water.

Day 3:
I continued on OH-4 towards Laguna Azul and decided to climb the Quetrupillán crater since conditions were perfect OH 3 CC A. I left my large backpack hidden behind a rock. The upper section had some falling rocks but was not too complicated. The views from the top were stunning. On the way down, I crossed a few small snowfields, but they were easy to walk on. I finished the day camping at Laguna Azul, where I met two groups of Chileans who were also camping there.

Day 4:
I walked past Laguna Blanco and Laguna Las Avutardas all the way down to Puesco. The descent was quite tiring on the knees, and in the lower part of the trail I had to avoid or step over many fallen trees, but nothing major. Tabanos and cows were everywhere:) There is a cool café/restaurant right where the trail meets the road. I got a hitch to Curarrehue and then took a bus to Pucón for 2,000 CLP.

Overall: An easy and very attractive section A5/D3.

'''2026-01-12 to 2026-01-16/ 5 days/ Hiking/ SOBO/ Options 4, 3, 2/ Greg Carter'''

Overall
The Villarrica Traverse is a wonderful hike with immersion in spectacular volcanic terrain, and beautiful Araucaria forests. Although the hike is well-known I saw only 2 other hikers.

Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 3/5

Day 1 (Monday)
I started from Villarrica early afternoon by taking an Uber to the parking for Centro de Ski, for CLP 10,000. On the way up there is a ranger station for registration. However it was closed so registration was not possible (the park is closed on Mondays). I prepaid an online entry pass (11,000 CLP) starting on Tuesday, but this was never checked.

The trailhead/ start of the GPT is approx 2km uphill on a dirt road from the car park. Despite the park being closed I was not stopped from starting the trail.

There are many streams with heavy volcanic sediment which would be difficult to filter. It’s best to bring sufficient water for at least the first 10km (from the carpark) to the spring/ water point described below (**which may not be reliable later in summer**).

I camped at a major trail intersection here (-39.43578, -71.99362), close to a signed water point (-39.43583, -71.99545) fed by a spring, connected by a hose to a tap and water trough.

Day 2
Hiked to camp at Pichillancahue campsite (-39.46838, -71.85740). Note there is a no camping sign. Whilst there is a river here the water has volcanic sediment which I filtered after straining through a fine cloth.

Along the way there is a small clear lake and a good camping site at -39.44683, -71.98701.

Further along the only other good source of clean water is the Estero Aihue at -39.47765, -71.88646. I highly recommend you fill up here. This is also a good camping spot.

Day 3
Hiked to camp 3 (-39.51371, -71.75336) at the intersection with Option 3, where there is a good clear stream. There is also a fairly big waterfall nearby, and possibly a flat area for camping above it, which I saw from above but did not investigate.

Early in the day the rangers at Chinay {16-04} [31.9/996] required registration but did not check my pass. Shortly after the ranger station, where the trail turns to the right, there is a good stream to fill up. The trail then climbs steadily through Araucaria forest to reveal increasingly better views of Volcán Villarrica. On the way up there is a good flowing spring (signed, 20m downhill from the trail) at -39.47179, -71.82628.

Above the treeline there is an easy path to a scenic pass, followed by a spectacular ridge walk, with views of Volcáns Villarrica, Quetrupillan and Lanín.

Day 4
Hiked Option 3 to the N/S intersection, left my main pack and climbed Volcán Quetrupillan. This was a little challenging, as it required skirting several snow fields on the GPT route. However micro-spikes were not necessary. Some careful scrambling is required (due to loose rock and scree) to gain/ descend the summit ridge, and to climb/ descend the summit itself. There were amazing views from the top, including Laguna Azul, and Volcáns Villarrica and Lanín.

Afterwards I intended to continue east to connect with Option 1 (Rio Trancura), but I accidentally fell over when I wasn’t concentrating and broke a pole soon after setting off (insert expletive!). I repaired the pole but decided it was best to return to Pucón (to buy new poles) by the easiest route, which was Options 3 and 2. That night I camped at -39.52414, -71.80216, on a disused side road, uphill from a bridge with a good flowing stream.

Day 5
I hiked out on Option 2, which is an easy dirt track. At -39.51765 -71.83974 there is a big double gate system (?!) just before a bridge over a running stream. I found a gap where there is a missing fence post on the right hand side (facing west), which I squeezed my pack and myself through. It would be very difficult to climb over the second gate.

I then hiked to the road at Termas El Rincón, where I hitched almost immediately to Coñaripe. Then I caught 2 local buses, first to Villarrica, then to Pucón, (from memory) for CLP 2,300 and CLP 1,500, respectively.

I understand that the Termas El Rincon has wifi if you need it.

''' GPT16/ 2025-12-31 to 2026-1-1/2 days/ SOBO/RR/Denis, Robert'''

Stayed in Currarehue for two nights in Maxmafram cabañas for 40000 pesos for night. Bought gas in ferretería close to the bridge. First night we slept next to Laguna Blanca. No problems all the way.

*''' 2025.23.12 to 2025.25.12 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt. 4 (Villarica Traverse) + Opt. 2 + RR / Kris and Stiina, Alex and Tim, Bailey'''

Day 1 - Morning transfer from Pucón to Ski center parking lot with Hans.
His site: travelaid.cl and phone nr. +56 9 7744 6664
Passing the ranger station 8am there was nobody there to check us in, but Hans managed to do it on his way back.
We were 5 GPT hikers together which is quite unusual for the GPT but a nice change once in a while to have it a bit more social on this otherwise very solitary trail.

We drove through the cloud and could appreciate the Volcán Villarrica and some sunshine as we set off. But as the day progressed it got more overcast and cold once again, especially in the windier places.
Does it seem to be a bit more rainy and cold summer this year?
Due to ample amounts of rain the days prior, water was not an issue.
A well established straightforward trail all the way.
We camped here: -39.46092, -71.83637 about 2km before Park Ranger {16-04} [31.9/996] (Chinay).

Day 2 - Despite there being no rain in the forecast the day was rainy, cold and miserable at times.
We stopped by the park ranger in the morning for a toilet break. He asked if we are all good and we had to write down our names.
Most of the day we spent in a cloud without any views. The ridge before the plateau was pretty cold with the rain on the open bits, but luckily there were also plenty of bushes for wind shelter along it.
Once we got to the plateau of Volcán Quatrupillán and joined the Option 2 the weather improved a bit but we were still in a cloud until the Pass {16-02} [2.5/1924].
After that the cloud lifted a bit and the views improved.
As we got to our planned camp by Laguna Azul the weather kept improving and later in the afternoon even the sun came out so we could dry all of our wet stuff. The camp was nice and sheltered from the wind. Some trash here and there especially where everyone went for the toilet but not too bad. Water in the lake was clear and not too cold.

Day 3 - The sun was finally back and it was warm once again. Alex an his son Tim departed in a different direction. Bailey took off while me and Stiina were still faffing around getting ready and we only saw him again in the evening when we camped together again.
Don’t expect any road to appear here: Road End {16} [44.6/1288]. It does start but later and for us was it was very muddy due to all the recent rain.
No bridge here: Settlement, Bridge {16} [58.5/440] (Huichahue), it seems to have collapsed. There is a log across that might be tricky when wet, but we managed fine otherwise ford seemed easy.
We got a hitch to Liquine from around: Camp {16} [62.0/486] which pretty much seemed where the road got really dull and boring. We drove along the road - variant B
There is a gate here: -39.69204, -71.85995 but Bailey said he could open it and walked through without any issues.
Since it was 25th of December we were lucky that a few shops were still open, but unfortunately everything else was closed, no restaurants or cafes for us.
After some refreshments we continued on to section 17…

(Continued in section 17)

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* '''2025-12-06 to 2025-12-12 / 6 Days / Hiking / SOBO / OH4 (extra stop Pucon) OH1 OH2 / Isabelle & Sander'''
As our first hike in Chile we incredibly enjoyed the vulcanic landscape and the Auracaria/Nothofagus forests. Because of bad weather, a problem with our gps and food we made an extra stop in between. All trails very clear, just some remarks that might be of use to others:
+ We camped our second night next to the Rio Llancahue (OH4) which was grey from erosion of vulcanic rocks but was clear in the morning and easily went through our water filter.
+ we walked down OH2 to Coñaripe, but the trail after Termas Geometricas has a big sign ‘forbidden entry’. Two men from the Termas told us it’s private property and didn’t let us go and we took the road back. It seems the development of more Termas and Cabañas has made it more difficult. So we changed plans, stayed on the mountain and are camping at El Ranchi de Palito, 20k two people, there’s no one else and it is pouring rain so he let us stay in some kind of common room with a fire place, electricity and WiFi. Very kind! Also serves food.
+ Many cool flowering plant species now up on the vulcanic plateau. Also, on the villarica traverse we met two people shooting drone footage for a new BBC documentary called Home and it is coming out in a few years. It’s about a top secret animal, but we’re guessing it starts with a P and ends with uma.

* '''2025-12-04 to 2025-12-09 / 6 Days / Hiking / SOBO (east, then south) / Villarica Traverse + RR / Michel & Lisa'''

Day 1

Had a late start since someone (not gonna tell you who xD) lost their spork and so we had to wait until the outdoor Stores in town opened at 10.
Paid the entry fee for Villarica sector norte in advance online (10200CLP pp). Took a taxi up to the Centro de ski, although our taxi driver was hesitant at first due to bad road conditions he eventually agreed to take us up for 18000CLP. The road was fine and there were no problems at all in his standard sedan with 700'000km on it. Stopped at the CONAF office en route (not the center de visitantes) and registered - pretty straight forward. Show your proof of payment, get a tag for onto your backpack (so guarda parques can see you've registered for the Villarica Traverse) and write down your name and contact info in the list.
At the centro de ski we had to walk the first ~1.5 km to the start of the trail (i.e. where the track file starts as well). From there it's pretty easy walking on a well maintained trail. Only got as far as lagunitas XYZ where we camped (-39.44708, -71.98718). Water is clear but lots of algae growth in the lower of the two.
There was no water whatsoever between the centro de ski and this place (-39.43584, -71.99550) that is shown as a source of water on the OSM map as well (the lack of water surprised us somewhat as we are early in the season and had expected meltwater to result in some water availability). However, if you read the last entry about the traverse, there can be more water.

Day 2

Had a slow morning and late start, enjoying the calm and quiet in the forest close to the beautiful laguito. Filtered some water from the lagunita and treated it with micropur tablets on top, just to be sure. Turned out to be fine that way.
Estero Ñilfe had really grey water, just like 6 years ago when I was last here. Back then we drank it and were okay but I was glad not having to drink it again. Would definitely avoid that if you can. Then it was really sunny and dry for a while. The next water we found was Estero Tralco which was almost equally grey and therefore not good for drinking, though probably also not deadly. Continued all the way to Estero Aihue where the water is crystal clear and really cold (7 °C). Found a not really level campspot closeby, if you search longer you might be able to find something better. The ground is mostly pretty soft so we put rocks on all tent pegs. Lots of fine dust that gets everywhere which was a bit annoying. But the views are stunning here so it's worth it!

Day 3

Woke up to an almost full moon just above Volcán Villarrica and a calm, cloudless sunrise. People in the valley must have missed it due to the cloud cover visible from up here. :P
Next water source was at Río Pichillancahue (Llancahue on my map [-39.46842, -71.85767]). Shortly after that the trail joins a dirt road. We checked out the Chinay (marked as China on my map, lol) Camping [-39.45935, -71.82974] that turned out to be an abandoned camping with huts and lots of defunct infrastructure. Weird. We continued to the guardaparque [km 31.9] where there was nobody. Continued along the road until the trail turns off again, walked it for about 5 minutes where we found a wonderful camp [-39.45839, -71.81611] just next to the river. Sun, shade, water, it has it all! B-) only the tábanos are a bit of a lastima.

Day 4

Started earlyish to do as much in the shade as possible, which turned out to be a good idea. Water at [-39.46171, -71.82039] where one could also camp (but I wouldn't recommend it, it's dark and completely forested) and at [-39.47165, -71.82632] where you should definitely fill up. Then nothing until the end of the forest at [-39.50218, -71.76623] where there's a small stream and a couple of camping possibilities with reasonably flat ground. We continued on until [-39.51272, -71.75385] where we camped on nice flat ground next to the trail. A pretty tough day with our heavy backpacks but the views up here are again amazing! The area here with a few meandering streams is really beautiful. The only downside today were the tábanos everywhere and the extreme heat.
We apologize for all the dead tábanos en route and confess we had a little competition going on. If you find a few dead ones on the ground, it'll be a spot where we had a break (of which there were plenty). Lisa won 47 to 36, if you were curious. xD
------
Well. It seems mother nature, karma or whoever was not happy with the trail of dead tabanos we left behind. At least if you believe in this kind of stuff. Just after sunset a group of 7-8 bulls showed up and mooed loudly, walked in our direction. They seemed to have lost a buddy of theirs and we were kind of on their trail. Or they were curious or both. Anyways, some of them came really close and they were absolutely massive, which both scared us, especially since they were very vocal as well. After a while they continued on over the hill and we thought they had left, but they came back after about 10 minutes and so we decided to pack our stuff together and left in a hurry, back over the creek and to a slightly less flat camp spot with no grass [-39.51135, -71.75112] where we thought they wouldn't follow us. At least that was true. But then a gust pulled out one of the tent pegs in the middle of the night and our air mattress had a puncture. So... Not a great night! >:~|

Day 5

We woke up to a somewhat cloudy sky and stronger winds. After packing up we hiked to Laguna Azul which is really pretty, especially seen from the pass above. Great spot for a break. The camp at the laguna is really a bit dirty (trash, pots and pans left there) and smelled of fish so we didn't stop for long. If you want to stop there, continue to the ford where there's nobody and it's not dirty/trashy at all. We continued, joining the RR of the GPT which first is a trail and later develops into an abandoned road. Many a fallen tree on the trail/road which have to be climbed or walked around. The trail/road is frequented by dirt bikes so there's always a pretty good trail. I'm not sure what Road end [44.6/1288] wants to indicate as the road only starts much further down, where the RR actually becomes MR, i.e. X [49.6/997]. There are lots and lots of really good camp spots along the MR, not just where it's indicated [52.2/794]. But they're all without water access. We decided to search for an option with water and finally found a place which had a really nice flat grassy spot: [-39.631233, -71.834371]. It looks like it's used as pasture for cows, but there were none present when we were there (yay, if you read about our experience the night before). You can walk down an old, unused road towards a broken bridge (about 500m, maybe 5-10 min) where there's access to the river. The river is rather difficult to access since its banks are steep (everywhere, not just at this spot). But at the bridge it's possible, if slightly complicated. If you don't feel comfortable climbing down over some fallen trees and rocks to the water, this might not be your spot. We quite liked it. The punctured mattress was fixed in little time, shining a headlamp through it from behind while checking the front really helps to find small punctures! There was a big thunderstorm at night which kept us awake again, at times it got pretty close (600m?) but mostly stayed up in the mountains.

Day 6

After another night of bad sleep thanks to the thunderstorm, we skipped breakfast in order to get going soon. Just before reaching the settlement [58.5/440] we had to cross a deep trench (about 2-3 m deep, 2-3 m wide) that cut through the road and there was only a wooden plank which was a bit scary to cross over. You might find a way around the trench though. The river after we had to ford, the bridge seems to be gone.
After the settlements came rather boring road walking and we were happy to be picked up by a local who drove us all the way to the road towards Liquiñe. We went to the shop across the road [66.4/237] which had a nice selection (even some veggies!) and stocked up for 17P.

==Season 2024/25==

*'''2025-04-22 to 2025-04-29/ 6 days hiking / NOBO / Villarica Traverse Route from Pucón to Carirriñe Bajo. Ben &Stephanie

Spectacular alpine hiking around Volcáns Villarrica and Quetrupillán, then descend through aracharia forest where pinions are harvested.

We had to cut this stage short due to slow progress hiking in recent snow down to 1000m and rerouted southbound on the RR when the next storm arrived at Lago Azul. Useful tip if you anticipate a lot of snow: bring ice spikes/ultralight crampons -- we purchased some at Volcanica in Pucon, a very comprehensive outdoor gear store. Also: the highest snow accumulation is on Volcan Villarica and stays longer on the south sides of all the slopes. Melting snow means water was always near.

*'''2025-03-10 to 2025-03-13 / 3.5 days hiking / NOBO / Villarica Traverse (OH 04 + OH 02 + RR + OH A + OH 01) / MiaimZelt'''

Summary: Very pleasant stage with nice trails, posing no real difficulties. Didn't met a lot of people.

Day 1: Took a Uber for 10k to the Centro de Ski. It was raining and it's necessary to walk the last 2km to the beginning of the starting point of the trail. Started on monday, although the NP Villarica us officially closed. Prepaid the fee online for tuesday.
Trail was very easy, but the first 3 hours were hard because of rain and the cold. Camping options for example here: -39.435913, -71.993726 and -39.447416, -71.987115 (sheltered). Camped here exposed but with brilliant views: -39.472071, -71.957839. Water was easy to find, but don't take it from Ñilfe - very dirty. The small streams were the best. Met only one guy on horseback.

Day 2: Sunny wether all day long. Again easy hiking, met a group on the way down. Water at Río Pichillancahue was clean. Needed to register at CONAF Sector Quetrupillán and showed my payment. Take water before ascending, the next sourse comes here: -39.471659, -71.826306. The next 3 hours i didn't see water before this point: -39.503012, -71.764707. Camped there at the last possibility with shelter from the wind before Laguna Azul.

Day 3: Sunny, but very windy. Great views at Pass {16-02} [2.5/1924]. Hiked CC until i could see the milky lagoon nearby. At Laguna Azul i met local people camping and fishing with campfire at this spot. He gave me Piñones but asked strange questions, prefered to carry on. Ford {16} [36.6/1652] was posible dry feet. Water was greyish, better take from the small stream directly after the small pass before Laguna Blanca. Laguna Blanca was incredible! Camped near Lake, Camp {16-01} [33.6/1456], but wasn't the best choice because of tons of condensation. It's better to camp in the forest.

Day 4: The next km had a lot of fallen trees - very often it's necessary to walk around or climb over them, but always doable. Came across some streams. Hiked on the trail until Sector Puesco Park Ranger {16-01} [22.8/731]. Here i had to sign again and waited to get a hitch. Lot's of cars, but it took some time until someone stopped.

*'''2025-02-23 to 2025-02-26 /4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH02 + OH04 (villarica Traverse) / Chloe and Mathieu

We took the bus from Valdivia to Coñaripe at 2:2PM and slept there at the Küñul Pukuñil campground, really nice owner and 8000p per person.

Day 1 : we hitchhiked up to "settlement, shop{16}[66.5/237] and started walking from there. Gravel road easy to walk. We pitched our tent at the camp without water 52.3 but there are many places all around to camp. Good water spot at 51.1.

Day 2 : we walked up to Laguna Azul, easy trail in the bamboo and Araucarias forest. Then we took option 2, still some snow at the pass but easy to cross. We camped at S 39° 30.550', W 071° 45.530'. Lovely spot with water.

Day 3: the route up to the park ranger 31.9 is easy but no water in between. We refill there. Then we walked on the option 04 where there are no much water. Water from Rio Llancahue is dirty. The next clean water was at Estero Aihue (S 39° 28.618', W 071° 53.171') where we camped.

Day 4 : we continued until Villarica ski station. No clean water all along, hopefully we had enough water for the whole day. No public transportation at the station so we hitchhiked up to Pucon.

* '''2025-02-13 to 2025-02-16 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / Vulcan Villarica+OH4+OH2+RR / Dorota'''

Day 1: After finishing stage 15, I took a micro from Curarreuhe to Pucón. I have found a good hostel, Raiz, for 15000 clp in a room of 6 persons, but you need to pay cash to avoid IVA. In Pucón, I bought shoes, but only for men. For women, there is no big choice. It is a very touristic place. I have decided to make a volcán Villa Rica with an agency. When I was buying shoes, a woman said to me that she was trying alone (she is from Pucón) and paid "multa". I paid 150.000 clp. The price includes full equipment (shoes, icepeak, crampones, jacket, trousers, gaiters, gloves, casque, backpack, mask, parque fee, and transport and equipment for sliding down it). They took my backpack, so after that, I could start Travesía Villarica from the Ski station in Pucón. Important: the ranger said to me that Puesco is closed because of a fire. I took water from "banos" near the Ski station and made camp at km 1 of OH4.

Day 2:
Continued Travesía, very spectacular views of volcanoes and valleys. I did not have problems with water, but very often it was dirty. In the forest trail, it was clear.
Water:
6.5 km Zanjón Vaipoi - dirty
12 km Estero - dirty
16 km clean water
Camp at km 26 - Río Pichillanchahue. Place for one tent.

Day 3:
I met two people from Czechia. They went from Nobo. The The Ranger had not allowed them to go to Laguna Azul. Then I met a family from Chile who were doing Travesía from Puesco. They bought tickets before closing Puesco, so they were allowed to start from there. The The Ranger was very polite. I was not registered officially on the trail. But when I was doing Volcan Villarica with an agency ranger who was there, he took my datos and made me a photo, so the ranger at point 31.9 km knew me. Of course, it is not standard:) After 31.9 km, the trail was going up significantly. In the forest, the trail was clear. I took water at km 36.5, then till km 42, there was no water. After the trail was following a ridge with views and then again, no views. I camped at km 43 in the place where there is a table "Mirador of Quetropillán". Water was near. It was an amazing place. There was no wind but very cold.

Day 4:
On the km of 44.5 of option OH4, I joined option OH2. In the morning, at the height of 1800 m n.p.m. small streams were frozen. After passing there, there were some patches of snow very easy to pass. Laguna Azul espectacular, but I have met people on motocross there. Here I joined variant RR (km 40.2). Ford near Laguna was very easy to cross. In the forest trail, it was clear, sometimes I needed to go around fallen trees. At km 59.9, near a destroyed bridge, there was something like a bridge, but I crossed the river a few meters after, in the deepest place, the water level was to the knee of my height ( 1.64).
Then till the village Reyehueico, there was no place for a tent. In the shop of the village, there were a lot of things to buy. I asked the owner to put my tent in his garden. He agreed. He gave me a table and I had water. He allowed me also to take my dog, who followed me. The dog was sleeping in my tent.

* '''2025-02-07 to 2025-02-11 / 4.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / OH 04 (Villarica Traverse), OH 03 (Volcán Quetrupillán), OH 02, RR / Peggy

I started from Molco, where I had spent the night, following a trail along the Río Correntoso (note: this river is dry). It took me about 3-4 hours to reach the ski station.

Villarica Traverse

I really enjoyed this traverse. The first part alternates between lava fields and forests, offering beautiful views of Villarica. Be mindful of water sources—rivers in the first kilometers are dry. The first water source I found was at -39.42548, -71.98709, but the water was whitish and carried volcanic sediments. A better water source was available from a faucet at km 36.3.

There's a beautiful forest section before reaching the park ranger station (31.9/996). Afterward, the trail climbs through a stunning forest of araucarias and other trees I couldn't identify. There are two notable water sources:

Km 24.1, which appears on maps (Locus and others).

-39.288052, -071.492708, where a small spring is located. This spot is also a great place to camp if there's no wind, with a breathtaking view of Villarica. This water source isn't marked on maps but was indicated by the park ranger.

Volcán Quetrupillán

The OH 03 connecting to the volcano is marked as CC but is quite manageable. There was still a lot of snow on the ascent, making it pleasant and easier to climb. The summit offers incredible views of the crater and surrounding volcanoes (Villarica, Lanín, Mocho, and Choshuenco).

There are two routes to the top. I first followed the GPT route to the crater, but when I tried to climb higher, I stopped due to a steep, slippery section that made me uncomfortable. On the way down, I decided to try the other route (further left) and managed to reach the highest point, crossing snowfields and finishing with a steep, rocky slope.

I camped by a beautiful green lake on my way down toward Laguna Azul, but I barely slept because of the strong wind. Thankfully, my tent held up!

The next day was spectacular—I was completely alone. Even at Laguna Azul, where there's an excellent, wind-sheltered campsite, I saw no one. Laguna Blanca was absolutely stunning! A must-see!

Descent to Curarrehue

I followed the RR down to Curarrehue. I camped near the Estero Huililco on private property, being respectful of the place (as always, of course).

From -39.238782, -71.394307, there are several gates and enclosures to pass through, but the path remains accessible. A local man told me that the trail the track follows had been closed by "los indígenas", and he wasn’t sure if it was still passable. However, I had no issues. Just follow the GPS track carefully at intersections.

* '''2025-01-28 to 2025-01-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / Option 1, RR, Option 3 (Quetrupillan ascent), RR / Lucie and Thomas '''

We came by a bus Temuco 8am - Curarrehue ~11am. From there we easily hitch hiked to Puesco/Mirador (beginning of OH1 SOBO).
Day 1 afternoon: mirador to Laguna Arguntas. The path is generally very well marked. A couple of fallen trees on the path and we encountered several groups of cows. Almost not disturb by tabanos.
We stoped to camp on the west side of Laguna Arguntas where we camped. Tabanos were quite present until sunset. Better camp with water and view on Lanin 150m above.
We regularly found water al along option 1 until we reached the volcanic plateau, and last melted snow water at -39,56982 -71,682110
Day 2: Laguna Arguntas > RR to Laguna blanca and then Laguna Azul > Quetrupillan ascent where we camped at -39,49878 -71,72278 on the ridge (amazing sunset, stars and sunrise views, totally worth it if the weather is good).
Amazing and scenic views on the plateau, we highly recomand to hike up from the Laguna Azul at least until -39,53391 -71,73845.
End of Quetrupillan ascent following GPT track was easy given the afternoon melted snow. You can also pass by by the west of the summit and ascent by the more used NW path.
Day 3: Way down from Quetrupillan summit to the broken bridge at 58,6km following RR (very good camp site before the broken bridge).
Easy path, beautiful first part through araucaria forest, the rest through regular forest.
Day 4 morning: minor road during 10km (worth hitchhiking) until the crossing with 201.
We walked to Quilimo camping for the packrafting section 17P through rio Cua Cua.

* '''2025-01-22 to 2025-01-25 / 3 days / villaria traverse middle part hiking in-out / Steve Behaeghel & Katrijn + kids Lotta (9ys), Bosse (6ys), Pelle (3ys)

We did a 3 day trek starting at fundo porvenir (-39.476849 ; -71.786063) where we paid 15000CLP to leave our rental car with the very hospitable farmers (there is also a little campsite here with them). We did not buy a national park ticket and as expected we did not meet any ranger. We did only meet 4 small hiking groups during those 3 days.
We hiked up to the saddle between Villarica and Quetrupillan where we set up camp at (-39.476849 ; -71.786063) where there is still melting water from snow fields on Quetrupillan. A lot of fallen trees in the hike up via Estero Mocho.
From there we hiked up and back to Laguna Las Avutardas. Still some snow fields to cross above 1700m.
We hiked down via the alternative exit from the summit route of Quetrupillan.

* '''2025-01-09 to 2025-01-11 / 2.5 days / NOBO / RR / Mara and Tobias

Day 1 - walked 7.3 km from the Settlement, Shop {16} [66.5/237] to Bridge {16} [58.6/440] where we camped. Easy roadwalking, 2 hours. Day 2 - walked 24 km to Laguna Azul without difficulties. The trail is in a good condition, since people with motorbikes cross the park illegally. There were 6 other persons on the camping. Very beautiful spot. Day 3 - 32 km to Catripulli. Last Kilometres we got a lift. I sank up to my knees in the mud at Laguna Blanca. Watch your steps! We count 8 people on motorcycles that day. There are several Conaf signs indicating that motorcycles are illegal in the national park. Anyway, it was a nice section with various vulcanic rock formations, stunning views and beautiful araucarian forests!

* ''' 2025-JAN-05 > 07 / 2,5 jours / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 16-A > RR > 16-02 > 16-03 > 16-02 > 16-02A > RR / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT14+GPT15+GPT16+GPT17+GPT18+GPT19
| Meteo : soleil
| Eau : plutot rare
| Neige : oui beaucoup
| Intérêt : 5/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : gouffres sur le sentier

J'ai fait quelques achats a Curarrehue. La montée se fait bien même si certaines clôtures ne sont pas facile a passer. Il y a un ford au point (39.470744° S 71.631158° W). Il n'y a pas autant de point d'eau que d'habitude, et moi qui aime marcher sans eau, c'etait parfois limite. Il y a encore beaucoup de neige dès 1600m. Je campe au lac a 1830m et il est en grande partie glacé et recouvert de neige.
Volcan Quetrupillan facile car beaucoup de neige ce qui evite les pierriers, puis grande boucle dans la forêt. Il y a de l'eau mais l'accès est difficile. Quasiment tout le chemin est en bon état, même si des moto-cross et des quad sont passés et l'ont abimés. Il y a des gouffres sur le chemin. Au km 58,6 le pont est detruit. Un arbre couché par les locaux permet de passer.

'''2025-Jan-07 to 2025-Jan-10 / 3.5 days / Hiking / Eastbound / OH04, OH02, RR, OH01 / Sean & Neele'''

TLDR - Had to pay entrance fee and was checked by a ranger in day 2, plenty of water at this time of year due to snow melt, still some snow patches but not a problem at all.

Got an uber to the ski resort. A ranger stopped our uber and made us pay 10k each entrance fee.

Camped at 22.1km

Park ranger 31.9km - no one here but met a ranger further up the climb

34.6km - met a ranger clearing the trail. He checked we'd paid entry.

36.3km - last water until 42.8km. Trail is a bit overgrown/lots of blow downs between these two.

Camped at 42.8km

Took option 2 to Laguna azul patches of snow around pass 2.5km but all manageable.

RR Ford 36.6km just a stream at this point dry feet crossing.

Took variant A - water on this section at the moment.

Option 01 - passes 40.4km and 39.1km little snow patches but never a problem.

Camped at the lake 33.6km

We got a hitch from CONAF Puesco to Curarrehue in about half an hour and took the bus from there to Pucon.

*'''2025-JAN-02 to 2025-JAN-04 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

This tranquil section of the trail offers stunning highlights, including the plateau beneath Volcán Quetrupillán, featuring a two lakes and breathtaking views of Volcán Lanín.

Between kilometer 6 and the bridge at [14.3/500], there are several gates you’ll need to climb over. At the settlement near this bridge, locals kindly allowed us to refill our water from their tap. Note that at coordinates -39.4708371, -71.6312554, there is a ford that is not marked on the track files.

While ascending through the forest, we encountered many cyclists going down the trail on mountain bikes. Once above the tree line, the landscape changed dramatically, revealing the majestic Volcán Lanín. On the plateau, patches of snow still covered several hundred meters of the trail in some areas.

The first ford in the Los Ríos region [36.6/1652] can be crossed dry-footed by stepping on rocks. From the crystal-clear Laguna Azul, we descended again into the forest, largely dominated by araucaria trees.

A great camping spot can be found just past the gate at [51.8/805]. Note that the old bridge at [58.6/440] no longer exists. However, a temporary log bridge has been installed, allowing for a safe crossing of the river.

21-12-21- 24-12-24/ 4 days / WEBO / OH01, RR, OH03, OH04/ Volker

Day 0: I went for cherrypicking and skipped gpt13-15. Bus at Liucura (end of gpt12) to Victoria at 7 a.m., direct connection to Temuco and from there to Pucon. Pucon is very touristic, I didn‘t like it and continued to Currarehue - nice town, everything for resupply, I recommend Hostal Quechupehuen (25k with breakfast)

Day 1: Very good weather forecast for 2 days. So instead of the long RR I took OH01 from Puesco (few cars on the road this morning, a local offered to give me a ride for 10k, fair offer). He would have brought me to the point, where OH01 leaves the PR, but I got out at the entrance of the Nationl Park. I think it‘s fair to pay the entrance fee (10k), untouched nature has a value. You don‘t have to walk along the PR, go 500 m to the east and you will find a path, that brings you to OH01 at S 39.549907° W 71.576084°.
Relaxed walk to Laguna Las Avutardas (many broken trees on the last 2 km). On the way to the pass first 1/3 swamp, 1/3 snowfields, later most parts of the trail covered by snow (flushy in the afternoon). Very, very scenic, most impressive section after many very beautiful others) Camped 1km before Laguna Blanca.
Day 2: Started early and left the RR at the ford at 36,6 (few water, snow bridges, take care) to go CC on the snow (99%} in the direction of Quatrepillan. Joined OH03 at S 39.502659° W 71.730390° and left my backpack there. While I was approaching the summit, the sun had melted the surface of the snow, what alllowed for a secure ascent to the summit on the steep slope with mini-spikes (last 200m some easy rock climbing). No clouds, no wind, stayed more than an hour on the Seat of the Gods. Back on OH03, , then OH04 (Villarica Traverse). Camped at a protected place on the ridge before the trail starts to go down to the ranger station.
Day 3: From 1750m down to 1050m (no Ranger there), up to 1250m, down to 1150m, up to 1500m. After leaving the forest zone very easy and scenic. Camped at S 39.459022° W 71.978801°
Someone should explore, if it‘s possible to follow the „Panorama Route“ (Conaf signs and on the OSM) and from the point, where this trail touches the glacier of Volcan Villarica go CC downhill to rejoin OH04.

Day 4: Tried to get to the Villarica summit. The southern side is less steep than all others, but local hikers had told me, there are many cleavages, moreover you see a bergschrund from below. Instead of going to the ski station (down from 1600m to 1400 + the ups and downs, I left my backpack at S 39.454841° W 71.982446° and went CC. The plan was a traverse to join the normal route from the ski station at around 2400 m. But when I arrived at the first snowfields at around 1800m it turned out, that even at 11 a.m. the snow was very hard. Just impossible without crampons. So I went back to my backpack and completed OH04. No summit, but very scenic, saw a puma. Lots of people at the ski station, many organised tours to the summit, all with complete equipment (crampons, ice peak and helmet). Hitchhiked down to Pucon.

* '''22Dec2024 - 27dec2024 / hiking / OH4 - OH3 - OH2 - RR - varA - OH1 (Villarrica traverse + summit quetrupillan) / 4,5 days / Clara'''

From Pucon, took uber in the afternoon to get to pucon ski station. 10k. Didn't stop at conaf so didn't pay anything.

Camp :
- -39.42611,-7198716. (Zanjón Voipir). Close to good water flowing. Nice spot with great views, almost flat spot on confortable soft sand.
- estero aihue (-39.47717,-71.88487). So nice spot with view on 3 volcanoes : villarrica, mocho y lanin. Incredible sunset.
- end of OH1, just under quetrupillan. Crazy high wind comming during the night that broke one of my tent pole. Better to find a wind protected spot, even if sunset up there was incredible.
- laguna azul : a paradise with shade, beach around the lake, can swim, really nice camp.

So nice traverse with great views all along.

No navigation issues even if the trail is a bit overgrown between 34 and 42km on OH4 and even more when descending on OH1 on kms before and after laguna las avutardas. Often slowing down.

No one at the conaf quetrupillan as it was Christmas.

Snow : few patches but nothing problematic. On quetrupillan volcan, was possible without spikes during morning (snow not too strong and neither to melted). The end is really steep climbing on snow. So nice view up there. Easy ski descent.
Water : all rivers flowing well at this time with snow melting.

Return : Hitchhike to Pucon was a bit hard (lots of cars but no one stoping). You can go down to the conaf point after end of the trail, good spot to hitchhike, there is free wifi, water, possible camp spot (the guy of conaf that was sleeping here told us it was ok if we couldn't find a car) and buses 1 or 2 times per day.

* '''Start 2024-11-18/ 3d / Hiking SOBO RR / Mo'''

Bus Liquine from Santiago to Curarrehue, after short part PR, MR with quite some fences to jump over, snow starting higher than 1400m, hitched to Liquine on MR and PR after crossing. Some small supermarkets and restaurants in Liquine

==Season 2023/24==
* '''2024 Apr 10th to Apr 13th / 4 days / Eastbound / Hiking / Villarica Traverse (Opt 4 + Opt 2 + RR + Var A + Opt 1) / Maddi and Tom'''

Day 1:
Got an Uber right up to the ski centre so didn't pay the entrance fee. Started walking along the side of the volcano with high winds blowing us over every time we gained a ridge - seems we started on the same day as Michael and Kasia but we didn't see them unfortunately. Small trickles of water available at a few points along the route but filled up all our bottles for the night at the marked tap (-39.43584,-71.99555). We persevered through the high winds but still only made it about 15km for the day before setting up camp just beyond Estero Nilfe (not really any water in it) in the outcrop of trees. Plenty of little camp spots out of the wind, with awesome volcano views. Lucky the wind completely died off as we were setting up and we had an awesome fiery sunset over the lake. Went to bed and had an eerily quiet night. We couldn't work out why until we realised this was the first time we hadn't camped next to running water for 3 months.

Day 2:
Awesome sunny and windless day walking along the volcanic landscape. Water a bit scarce along here but managed to fill up from some smaller trickles until we got to Estero Aihue for lunch - plenty of water flowing. Steep descent down into the forest, crossing Rio Llancahue (plenty of running water) before getting to the 4WD track. Pichillanchue has no camping signs around now so not sure if it is still a camp spot. We continued up the road, did a quick side trip up to the glacier (probably not really worth it unless you haven't seen a glacier yet) then walked along the road to the CONAF office at Sector Quetrupillan. Set up camp just after the bridge (-39.45825,-71.81663) and had a very frosty night. Water available from stream under the bridge.

Day 3:
Really picturesque day walking up the ridgeline along Sendero Los Venados - probably our favourite day. Super clear views of all the volcanoes including our first glimpse of Lanin. Fill up with water before gaining the ridgeline as we didn't encounter any after the spring at (-39.47151,-71.82642) until our lunch spot (-39.50227,-71.76688). A few tree obstructions and some steep bits down into the valley but awesome views! Had lunch below Quetrepillan and was debating whether to climb it. By this point it was engulfed in cloud so we decided to continue on without the summit (very sad). Took the detour out to the cool green waterfall in the middle of the volcanic landscape. Then began the climb up and over to Laguna Azul. Some snowy patches but overall fine to walk along. Started getting very windy in the afternoon. Lots of tents at Laguna Azul (and lots of waste, pretty gross). We found a spot in the trees but had a very windy night.

Day 4:
Woke up to high winds and clouds so decided to leg it out of there. Good views on the descent to Laguna las Avutardas but Lanin unfortunately in cloud. Walked all the way out to the road and tried for a hitch for about an hour. First time on the GPT so many cars flew by us - normally we get a hitch straight away! Finally got a ride in the back of a pick up to Curarrehue where we got the bus back to Pucon.

* '''2024 Apr 10th to Apr 18th / 7 hiking days & 1 zero day / Eastbound / Hiking / Villarica Traverse (Opt 4 + Opt 2 + RR + Var A + Opt 1) / Michael and Kasia'''

TL:DR The Villarrica Traverse was one of our favorite sections this season; we were really happy we did it in the fall because the color change in the leaves was really beautiful; going eastbound it definitely gets more beautiful as you progress; we had less trouble finding water than we anticipated given previous reports; we caught a hitch all the way to the ski center and so did not pay an entry fee, and we also did not encounter any guardaparques during the 9 days in the park.

Camp points:

Night 1 - (-39.39748, -71.96793)

Night 2 - Estero Nilfe (-39.45876, -71.97840)

Night 3 - Rio Pichillancahue (-39.46861, -71.85707)

Night 4 - Camping Chinay (-39.45898, -71.83026)

Night 5 - below Quetrupian (-39.50221, -71.76620)

Nights 6 and 7 - Laguna Azul (-39.54443, -71.74855)

Night 8 - after river (-39.334752, -71.393837)

Water points - we found water often in this section. Around Volcan Villarrica we would sometimes see just a faint trickle across the path, but by going above or below the trail just a few meters we would find pools of clean water.

Day 1 April 10th

We left Pucón around 09:00. It was sunny, but pretty windy. We walked to Camino Al Volcán since it was more likely that cars on that road would be going to the park. It took two hitches, the second took us all the way to the ski center ticket office. This bypassed the CONAF office which is located at the bottom of the hill, so we did not pay or register. The ski center was closed and the road from the ski center ticket office to the beginning of the trail is gated off to cars, so it was about a 2 km road walk on a dirt road. Right at the entrance to the trail to the left are two buildings, one looked like a garage, the other a kitchen/dining room for the ski center workers. There were some people there working. I stopped and asked if they could fill a bottle of water for me and they did. We started on the trail, but the wind was very strong. We got about 1.5 km into the trail before we decided that we wouldn't make it very far since we were spending almost as much time standing and bracing ourselves against the wind as we did walking. We backtracked to (-39.39748, -71.96793), where we had spotted a somewhat wind-protected spot in a small forest. The site can accommodate 1 tent, and is a little on an angle, but not too bad. Wind protection wasn't amazing, but much better than being out in the open. We found water a little further on the trail. It looked like just a trickle coming across the path, but 3 or 4 meters above the trail there were a couple of pools of clear water deep enough to ladle out water with my mug. It was a cloudless night and a really amazing, long lasting sunset, and we could see the red glow of the volcano reflected in the smoke coming out

Day 2 April 11th

A sunny, windless day. There were nice views of the valley below and it was a walk through a classic volcanic landscape, up and down the various zajons, and through some forests. Overall a beautiful day. We also collected a lot of chaura, the little white, pink or red berries. I called them foam berries because they have a kind of airy consistency, but they were sweet and enjoyable, vaguely apple/strawberry flavored I guess. They aren't really filling, but we enjoyed eating something novel and wild harvested.

We camped at (-39.45876, -71.97840) at Estero Nilfe. There was a flat space big enough for one tent. It just barely fit our Durston X-Mid 2, but we managed to squeeze it in. The sunset view was absolutely amazing. The water in the estero was nearly gone for the season. I had to walk about 25 m up the gulch until I found a trickle like a faucet that wasn't fully turned off, and it was still cloudy. I would recommend filling up at (-39.45497, -71.98195) for drinking and cooking before heading there. This was our favorite campsite of the section, not necessarily because of the site itself, but the views. Highly recommended, but also recommended to get there early if going in high season.

Day 3 - April 12th

We had a nice sunrise in the morning. The landscape for the day was almost entirely volcanic until the end. Kasia was very taken by it and enjoyed it a lot. We had a very interesting experience as well. At about 14:00 we crossed a dry river bed at Estero Tralco. We were standing part way up the hill on the far side. We were listening to a sound that we couldn’t tell if it was wind or water. We were looking up the river bed and finally, about 30 m up we saw running water. We kept watching and the water started getting closer. Within 10 minutes the water had gone past us, and the river bed, which had been dry when we crossed it just minutes before, suddenly had a stream probably a meter wide and 6 cm deep. It was very impressive to see a stream just appear before our eyes.

The path down to Rio Pichillancahue was in the forest, steep but in pretty good condition. We camped at (-39.46861, -71.85707). There were flat spots with space for two tents above the path and another one or two below, with decent river access. There is a sign that says “No Camping”, but it obviously had been a campsite at some point. We arrived nearly at dark so no one was around.

Day 4 - April 13th

We had a slow start. A few hikers passed by as we were wrapping up camp. I was surprised when we arrived at the road. I had anticipated a road that was too damaged to drive on, but there were a variety of vehicles parked or driving on the road throughout the day (it was a weekend). There were also a fair number of hikers along the road as well.

At (-39.46156, -71.84584) we encountered a wooden cross standing in a clearing just off the side of the trail. It was unclear if it was a religious thing or art. A little further back there was a short path going down and a water spigot that worked. The water seemed good, though I would probably filter it.

We camped at Camping Chinay (-39.45898, -71.83026). There were 10 or 12 campsites with picnic tables and benches. There were also a number of buildings, several of them clearly intended to be bathrooms. There is no running water, but the river is just a short walk back toward the main path. I'm not sure what happened there, but my best guess would be that it was a concession that started to build a campground and went bankrupt and just abandoned the project. It was a good spot for the night.

Day 5 - April 14th

We passed the CONAF office around 7:30, we didn't see anyone there. We filled up water at the first river crossing. It was a cloudy, still morning. The trail up for the first few km was in good condition and easy to follow. There were a few more water points on the way up. The one marked with a sign saying ”Water 20 m” was the last one we saw until we camped that night. We didn't need water, but I went down to check it out. The path down was very steep and there wasn't really easy access to the stream which was piled over with blow downs. A mug or something small would be helpful to ladle water out. There was also a huge araucaria that had dropped a ton of piñones there and we spent nearly an hour collecting. It was the only really good piñones score that we encountered during the section.

Immediately after that were a few problematic blow downs. The trail went into and out of forest sections with some amazing views in between. By the time we reached the pass it was mostly clear. The pass had an almost 360 view, and from one point we could clearly see to the east Lanín and Quetrupian ahead of us, to the north Volcán Llaima in PN Conguillio just to the west of GPT13, to the west Volcán Villarrica behind us, and to the south Volcan Coshuenco and Volcan Mocho in RN Coshuenco adjacent to GPT18. We had lunch at the pass.

The route down was very steep in some parts, and at times felt a little sketchy until we were back in the forest. I would not want to be doing it on a windy day, and I would definitely budget a little extra time. There were some tricky blow downs on the way down as well. We arrived at a water point at (-39.50221, -71.76620), a stream, and decided to camp next to it. There was a clear, flattish spot and the remnants of a past campfire. There was one more possible campsite 100 m or so on that we saw the next day.

Day 6 - April 15th

We awoke to Quetrupian completely covered in fog. We got a slow start hoping that it would eventually clear, but it remained that way throughout the day. We passed by the Volcán Quetrupian camping spot and were glad we had stayed where we did the night before. It was completely barren and exposed other than a couple of low rock walls. It started to get windy as we made our way down to Laguna Azul. We had seen on the weather that it was supposed to start raining that evening and rain the whole next day, so we wanted to get a good campsite to sit it out. The Laguna was very pretty, but the camping area is, as others have mentioned, kind of trashed. Additionally it was not so easy to find a good spot. Most of the flattish areas were essentially the bottom of a bowl that would accumulate water fast, and there was a lot of cold wind coming directly off the lake. We found a spot around (-39.54443, -71.74855) near a small beach on the way towards RR going south that was more wind protected. We set up two ponchos to have an outdoor cooking and eating area and did some extensive trenching around the tent and built a low rock wall on the water side.

Day 7 - April 16th

Rain, wind and fog all day. The trenching turned out to be very useful. The rain was heavier and lasted longer than the weather prediction, and the trenches filled multiple times throughout the day. Some water found its way into the tent, but not too much. We managed to stay dry overall. We spent the day cooking and peeling piñones in the outdoor area. It was very wet and very windy, but we were grateful to have a fairly protected spot.

Day 8 - April 17th

There were clear skies and sun in the morning. We took extra time getting the wet gear as dried as we could, anticipating that we might not have a good opportunity later. Ford [36.6/1652 ] was dry foot crossable. The water was milky. On the way down to the branch in the trail toward Laguna Blanca there was a good, clear stream that looks like a permanent feature given all the plant growth around it. We dropped the packs and walked to Laguna Blanca. Kasia liked it very much. It didn’t do much for me. There were some great views on the way up to the passes.

Once over the second pass and back into Chile, there were absolutely stunning views in the evening light. The whole valley had a magical quality. Along the route down much of the landscape is essentially wetland, so it was a little slow going to not get our feet wet. We camped at (-39.334752, -71.393837) just on the other side of the river. The spot was above the path tucked away in the trees. It was a fairly large clear spot, though on somewhat of an angle. Going back out to the path, we had an exceptional sunset view over the mountains.

Day 9 - April 18th

We had an amazing sunrise in the morning. The route down continued to be wet and boggy in many places, requiring careful choice of footing. There were great views on the way down with the fall color. The trail through the woods above Laguna Las Avutardes was better, though there were some blow downs. We did not make the detour to the lake. There was a very nice forest further on with some very large trees. We hiked down to the highway and tried to hitchhike from the rest stop just across the street from the cafe, which was closed when we were there. After a bit with no luck we started hiking the highway down. After about 30 minutes a Mapuche man in a truck stopped without us even trying to hitchhike and offered us a ride to Currarehue which we gratefully accepted. He dropped us off on the main street in town and we caught a bus a few minutes later to Pucón.

* '''2024-Mar-24 to 2024-Mar-28 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / 04 02 RR B / Matthias de Austria'''

No snowfields, Tabanos, Mosquitos and only very easy fords. Clean water is limited in some parts. Water markers flowing. Laguna Azul nice for a swim.

Started in Pucon, going for 04 Villarrica Traverese, the one Uber on Sunday forenoon does not want the job up to the ski center, and hitchhiking is harder then expected on this sunny, blue sky sunday. So first lots of road hiking, got 3 short rides later on.
Rangerstation at -39.349925,-7196941 Entry fee is 8k, friendly ranger, you get a map, not that useful though. The ranger paints the possible campsites on it.

Water at -39.435836,-71.995461
Next clean water at -39.454973,-71.981950 camp here or take water for camp next to Estero Nilfe.

First camp at Estero Nilfe, very brown, sandy, fast stream: -39.458163,-71.978453, camp: -39.458755,-71.978396
Next water again very brown and sandy at -39.476059,-71.924327
Tiny stream of fresh clean water at -39.474726,-71.891417
Bigger clean stream at -39.477181,-71.886020
Further at -39.475188,-71.874056
Bridge over not so clear water at -39.467944,-71.857586
Next clean water at -39.461168,-71.832391

Second camp at ranger camp -39.456630,-71.817651 (noone around there). There are toilets, access to river 5m southeast at the bridge -39.457709,-71.816879
Soon next clean water at -39.461418,-71.819858 I think there is one more fresh water soon after, but not sure. Take a bit, there is non for a while until -39.502209,-71766203
Next at -39.507045,-71.754523

Few km after park ranger 04 31.9 on 04 is partly overgrown and lots of fallen trees, especially on ridge on downhill from ridge to the east. Third Camp nearby close to the waterfalls around -39.511782,-71.750506 some stonewalls for tents but no larger vegetation. Shortly after last water until lake azul. Amazing viewpoint south of pass 2.5/1924. Ford 40.3/1593 should be dry feet crossing now, I built some stone islands into the stream.

Quite dense forest afterwards, next possible camp where 02a ends, but not so nice and no water. Afterwards regulary patches of meadows but without water. Path at -39.652889,-71.843811 impassable but wacky lodge bridge at -39.652985,-71.843994, just a few meters west. Bridge at 58.6 is gone but easy ford a few douzen meters southeast. Camp after ford, asked the guy from the settlement, he is super chill and say I can choose wherevee I want to put my tent. Meadows full of shit though. Around 8-9pm massive blast of Bumm-Bumm music from the settlement, easy to hear even 200m away next to the river and with earplugs.

Gate at RR eastwards at junction B. Got a lift there to Liquiñe. Panderia, pasteria, minishop and cafeteria at -39.741773,-71.855479. I said I take 10 eggs if they cook it hard, they do so for 1k. +3k for the eggs.

Parts of Villarica Traverse is really beautiful. Southern parts of RR it's long, long boring road walking.

* '''2024-Mar-05 to 2024-Mar-08 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + summit Quetrupillan / Juliet and Martin '''

Day 1 Cararrehue to (-39.47055, -71.63177)

We left Cararrehue after sleeping in a campsite (altitude 360) for 7000 pesos per person. It's a good idea to stock up on water, as the rivers are milky. We filtered the water with our water bottles and it was fine. Lots of gates to climb. We slept in the forest near a river at the entrance to the national park. We recommend it.

Day 2 from (-39.47055, -71.63177) to Laguna Azul

We reached the laguna blanca, which is also milky. Magnificent. Great bivouac spot at laguna azul, which is finally transparent. Several places to shelter from the wind. There are a few people and garbage, but it's easy to get away from them and set up camp.

Day 3 ascent of Quetrupillan volcano

A long day's walk to the summit of Quetrupillan volcano and back. Lots of wind. Magnificent views, a must! We decided to do the grand tour, following the marked path (track on gaia) and not the GPT tracks after reading about other experiences on wikiexplora. We didn't encounter any technical difficulties. Long climb and very steep at the end. We recommend following the Gaia trail.
Back to laguna azul where we had left our gear to climb lighter.

Day 4 laguna azul a ruta 201 CH
We finally finished this section in one last day due to bad weather (continuous rain). Last day in the forest. No interest beyond that. We rejoined ruta 201 CH, where we were quickly picked up and hitchhiked to Conaripe. We stayed in Conaripe at the Hotel Chumay, which is very good and not too expensive.
There are buses in Conaripe, and we took one to Licanray as we'd missed the direct one to Panguipuilli, but it runs once a day. From Licanray we reached Panguipuilli and then Valdivia.

* '''From 2024-03-06 to 2023-03-08 // 2,5 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR + summit Quetrupillan // Quentin Clavel'''

After a long, smooth and easy to follow ascent, threw gravel road then nice and large forest track, and finally lovely little path, I reached the volcanic plateau.

It was very windy when I arrived at Laguna Azul, and I really hesitated to go up to the volcano Quetrupillan. I finally put my pant and jacket on, and start the climb, without my bag that I left at the campsite next to the Laguna.

Even if it's windy, I think the first part of the climb is definitely worth it, to have this amazing view on Villarica on one side and Lanin on the other ! Stunning !

Then I continue, but didn't follow the GPX track, and just cross country threw different snow patches, and loosing rocks area, to reach the crater (east part). I stayed there less than 2 minutes I guess, the wind was just that crazy that thought I'll be blown away.

The view up there is pretty nice, but from where I was on the crater, I've got the summit part in front of me that hide the Villarica volcán. Anyway, with these conditions it wasn't doable to go to the summit safely. So I just went down, sliding on volcanic little rocks and snow patches, lot of fun !

I found back my bag and spent the night at Laguna Azul campsite, enjoyed to be sheltered from the wind on this tiny forest.

Before leaving the area make sure to fill your water as you'll not have clear/clean water for a while.

The next day was very hard because of the harsh weather. It was rainy a lot, very windy and so cold. I even was into a snow storm on the volcanic plateau and all the length until the entrance on the forest. That wasn't fun at all ! I struggled a bit on the turn around laguna blanca, as the water from the heavy rain created some small rivers that I had to cross.

Then as the altitud decrease, snow became rain, and it finally stopped to turn into blue sky at the end of the day.

From the volcanic plateau, you'll alternate between forest trail, gravel road and asphalt road. Mostly very easy to follow. Few time you'll pass kind of residentially place, all the people that I met were absolutely lovely !

Between PK 12 and PK 8, you'll have few gates and fences to jump. I met Don Carlos at PK12, he's the owner of the property where you have to climb 2 fences and pass a gate, very nice and kind man, he even escorted me to pass the first gate and the fence and explained me the way very precisely.

Then after PK8, you reach a gravel road, it was longer for me because I stopped very regularly to eat looooot of blackberrys and plums that I found on the way. Finally, you'll reach the internacional road, and the city of currarehue.

Currarzhue is kind of a big city, where you'll find easily places to resupply (there's at least 4 supermarkets and 10 minimarkets), foodplaces and accomodation (cabanas, hospedaje and hostel (at the end of the city)). Didn't checked in all supermarkets, but there's a good chance to find Gaz in this city I reckon, if not in supermarkets, probably in ferretería ?

* '''2024-Feb-23 to 2024-Feb-25 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 02 +03 + B/ Joscha'''

Day 1: RR [0.0-34.6]

Bus from Pucon to Curarrehue leaves frequently from the terminal Vipu-Ray (-39.27753, -71.97265) and costs 2000 Pesos. I had to climb a locked wooden gate (8.6), locked barbed wire gates (10.1 and 11.4.) and barbed wire fence (9.8 and 11.7) while following the RR. Other than that the first 20 km are pretty easy to walk and relatively boring. There was a little stream next to RR at km 11.2. At km 15.7 and 18.3 it's possible to acces Estero Huililco. The RR crosses a small river at km 23.1, which is the last water source until Laguna Blanca. There is plenty of flat space for camping all around Laguna Blanca.

Day 2: RR [34.6-40.2] + to Volcan Quetrupillan and back on OH16-02 + OH16-03

There are still some big snow patches on OH16-03, but they can be avoided with some rock scrambling. Just before the Summit of Quetrupillan I had to use both my hands for climbing up. On the way down I took the OSM trail that leaves the RR at -39.49735, -071.72325 and rejoines the RR at -39.50155, -071.72667. It's pretty steep, but I didn't had to use my hands to climb down. But I had to maneuver around some snowfields to get back to the RR. There are a few water sources during the first 2 km of OH16-03. The view from Volcan Quetrupillan is amazing and the hike to the summit isn't to hard.

Day 3: RR [40.2-64.5] + OH16-B

The Bridge at km 58.6 is gone, but its an easy ford. Possible camping spot just south of water marker at km 44.2. I took OH16-B down to the main road and hitched from there to Conaripe. There is water at all water/ford markers on the whole RR.

Outside of the area around Volcan Quetrupillan the RR is pretty boring. A traverse from the ski area (OH16-4) over Quetrupillan to Puesco Norte (OH16-1) is the more scenic route.

* '''2024-Feb-02 to 2024-Feb-06 / 4.5 days / Hiking / Westbound / Villarrica traverse / Gerald'''

Since i came from Argentina i wanted to start at Puesco. In Curarrehue i couldn't find a Gascontainer with a screw. GYG had none and the Ferreterias have only the long one or the one without the screw.... But there is a bus going to Pucon every 20min for 2k.
Run out of time and camped at the Puesco Cervezeria. Nice beer and good spot next to the river. CONAF couldn't give me any information about water sources along the trail. If you start in Pucon they do incl. a Map....
I always found enough water, but i don't need that much. Camped at Laguna las Avutardes (bad weather was coming), Laguna Azul (really nice, almost no litter), Rio Pichillancahue (only spot for maybe 2 tents, water was cloudy but drinkable aber you let the soil (?) settle, in the morning it's cleaner) and 6km before the ski center since i wanted to see the volcano glowing at night. Camping on volcanic gravel was not smart but didn't damage my tent :)
I had a lot of luck with the weather, since i could descent right before the big rain. Beautiful trail, landscape is unreal. Just keep in mind if you wear trailrunner, the vulcanic rocks will eat them :)
In Pucon is a shoe repair shop between Uruguay and Peru street called "clinica de calzado". They seem more specialized in leather boots, but tried their best on my trailrunner. Have Frankenstein shoes now :)
There are tours going up to the volcano villarrica, but they are not allowed to summit right now. They charge around 100k. Maybe with some planing it is possible to get the gear from an tour operator at the ski station and continue the journey. In the area around Villarrica is cell reception.

* 2024-Feb-07 - 2024-Feb-10, NOBO, Hiking, 4 days, RR, 16-01, czimahi

from Liquiñe by road and the direction Trancas Negras; Join RR, Bridge 16 (5 - no bridge; night in camp without water. Next day to Laguna Azul and by 16-01 to laguna Avutardas (camp before 34,7) lots of water on the way till the last indicated. next day to Puesco camping on road (with artesanal beer), then going back to Conaf to 16-01. by the level of camp Puesco there is a bridge but closed by gate, easy to cross by left side, i decided not to go but then I was in that place, the way is just here. Just one spiny fence without any gate on the way.

If you go just the larger "road" for a car you will get join to the 16-01 which in some case is marked by some horse trail or something like this - I returned thinking I'm lost but I would get the route. In Trancura a car stopped me and took me to Curarrehue.

* 2024-01-28 to 2024-01-31: Fangwen and Tobi / 4 days Villarrica traverse

Like many others, we chose to do the scenic Villarrica traverse. We skipped the first day around the Villarrica mountain and started from CONAF Chinay (by taking an Uber -- until 1km before CONAF it's 2wd friendly). We left our stuff at the somewhat abandoned looking campsite at S 39° 27.571', W 071° 49.815' and went for a short hike up to Glaciar Pichillancahue. Nice, but not really a must in our opinion. The next day we hiked to the refreshing waterfalls at S 39° 30.715', W 071° 45.147' and camped there. The third day, we went up to the rim of the Quetrupillan volcano -- nice views! This involved hiking up some snowfields (but no technical gear was required). The peak itself involves scrambling up a short route. Not difficult but the rock is incredibly crumbly and so we turned around. Fun descent via buttsliding down the snowfields. Hike to the very scenic Lago Azul. We pushed on along the very scenic trail and camped at S 39° 33.759', W 071° 39.654', a bit after the getting back across the border to Chile from Argentina. The argentinian side would make for an awesome campsite with a great sunset too (in our case, there was also water from snowmelt), especially at S 39° 34.315', W 071° 40.548'. The fourth day was simply a hike out with a short stop at another lake. Easy hitchhike back to Pucón.

* '''2024-Jan-12 to 2024-Jan-16 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Villarrica Traverse / Alex & Lotti'''

We liked this hike a lot, especially the diversity of the landscape with the forests, volcanoes and lakes. We were happy that we did it in eastbound direction, because this way the landscape got more and more beautiful towards the end, and transportation to and from trail was easy.
Trail conditions were very good, only the trail from "Cafe Villarrica Traverse" to the Puesco CONAF office (part of Option 1) was overgrown and sometimes hard to find.

Camping:
Estero Nilfe (Beautiful view, no clean water), CONAF camp Chinay (weird abandoned construction site, but river close), Laguna Azul (beautiful campsite, but clearly used by many people, not much trash when we were there), Laguna Las Avurtardas (beautiful lake and campsite, lots of cow and horse shit, so water has to be filtered)

Transport to start:
We took an Uber to the Ski Center and paid 12000 pesos (more than what the driver asked for, but he had to wait for us while we did the registration at the CONAF office, so we paid a little extra).

Transport from end:
Bus at 5pm from the CONAF office in Puesco to Curarrehue, then bus to Pucon. (There is a river with nice swimming sites very close to the CONAF office to make waiting for the bus enjoyable)

* '''2024-Jan-19 to 2024-Jan-24 / 5 days / Hiking / (eastbound?) / Villarrica traverse RR - {16-04} - {16-02} - {16} - {16-A} - {16-01} / Andrew'''

This was my favourite hike so far. I did it in 5 days, but I wish I'd added an extra day to do the 2 side trips mentioned by Nat and Tomas (Quetrupillan summit and glacier Pichillancahue). Notes for logistics if you're doing the traverse and plan to return to Pucon: Chili Kiwi hostel won't store bags during the high season while you hike, but Gecko hostel will (for $5.000 CLP).

Day 1 (trail start to Zanjón pino Huacho):

Two rides got me up to CONAF station. I registered for the hike, $10.000 CLP, and they gave me a map of the trail and a tag for my backpack. I only saw the park rangers once however in the final 2km of the trail. Officially no wild camping. I was eager (ok maybe impatient) to start so I started hiking up to the ski centre after about 15 minutes without success hitchhiking. In hindsight I wished I waited longer, as the 8km uphill to the ski centre is not that interesting. I ate lunch at the ski centre, refilled my water bottles, and started the trek.

Incredible landscapes, going back and forth between barren volcanic rocks spotted with wildflowers to tall grasses. I found a stream that looked clear at ( 39°24'57.16"S, 71°58'18.54"W), so I drank water from it. Otherwise no water until Zanjón pino Huacho where I camped.

Day 2 (Zanjón pino Huacho to near Chinay):

Started with Araucaria forests, and then back to volcanic landscapes. First glimpse of the twin peaks of Choshuenco/Mocho and later on Lanin. After Valle de Fuego, you up and down over a couple valleys, the last one had a stream and that's where I had lunch. Long uphill stretch, a stand of Araucaria trees, and then windings paths through tall grasses just above the treeline. Many day hikers walking up from Pichillancahue to the mirador del volcan. River Pichillancahue looked like it had some nice places to camp, but marked with no camping signs. With so many people going back and forth I decided to continue onwards. I camped at an official looking campground with a water spigot and a thunder box close to Chinay.

Day 3 (near Chinay to Quetrupillan waterfall):

After Chinay there is a long uphill but worth it for the views. Partway up the hill there's a sign for water 20 m downhill. Tricky to get to, but this is the last water for several hours. I was carrying 1.75L and that wasn't enough. Amazing views up high, then a slow descent. Found some muddy pools, and then finally a clear stream at (39°30'25.70"S, 71°45'15.91"W). Lots of blackflies, but there was a cool moment where a lizard crawled onto my shoes and started hunting them. Camped at Quetrupillán waterfalls, stunning landscapes and view of the fire from Villarrica at night.

Day 4 (Quetrupillan waterfall to Laguna Avutardas):

A couple spots where the trail is covered in snow and you need to find your own way down. Stopped at Laguna Azul for lunch. Sad to see the state of the campground there, so much trash. If you're doing the traverse make sure you don't start following the main GPT trail after the lake like I did. And then it's worth going back to the main trail even if you have to cross the river at a difficult spot. I tried to find another crossing, and then made my own way through the lava field which was difficult, would not recommend. Continued onwards, more snow. Laguna blanca was worth a detour. More amazing views, and then the last snowing section followed by a long muddy descent to Laguna Avutardas. Several other Villarrica traverse hikers camped on the beach.

Day 5 (Launa Avutardas to end):

Coldest night by far with frost on my tent in the morning! Easy hike to the road. First sighting of the park rangers. Hitchhiked back to Pucon.

* '''2024-Jan-17 to 2024-Jan-19 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {16-02} - {16-03} - {16-02} - RR - {16-B} / Lilian'''

I really enjoy GPT16, walking on the beach beside Laguna Blanca, climbing Volcán Quetrupillán, camping at outlet of Laguna Azul and soaking in hot spring at Liquiñe, they are all so lovely.

Volcán Quetrupillán still covered by lot of snow above 1930m. Also need to climb up a 40° snow slope and traverse to it's rim. Take your time.

RR km0 - km8.9 : dirt road walking.

Km8.0 : clear water flowing beside the road. (-39.38490, -71.63200)

Km8.3 : camping possibilities on grassland at uphill side with no fence.(-39.38470, -71.63648)

Km8.65 : locked gate with barbed wire fence, a house just behind the gate, better ask for the permission first.

Km8.9 : 4 way junction, dirt road become an old trail.

Km9.75 : crossing of barbed wire fence, no more gate here. 2 holes at fence , one is already covered by bamboo, another one is at (-39.38352, -71.64776), go through it you will connect to an dirt road at other side.

Km10.1 : locked gate with barbed wire fence. Open the gate at top, remains the lock there and big step over, my legs are too short, the barbed wire breaks a hole at my shorts here ;(

Km11.1 : locked gate with barbed wire fence. At right side there is a small gap let small people go through, but not for backpack, so climb it!

Km11.15 : bridge and a stream flowing good at right side(-39.39046, -71.65845), go over the bridge then you will find a side trail at right side to stream.

Km11.3 : bridge and a stream flowing good, but no way to go down.

Km11.35 : locked gate with barbed wire fence. Climb.

Km11.7 : crossing of barbed wire fence, no more gate here. Houses at (-39.39480, -71.66123), a dog continues barking when i was climbing the fence, make me so anxiety...

Km12.2 : finally, this gate can open it with the chain at middle. But i didn't know it can be opened before i saw the chain, so i climbed the gate...

FYI : RR follow the valley and Estero Huililco climbing up, but no clear water, because the river is milky.

Km16.5 : grassland(-39.42330, -71.65069) with no fence can fit many tents, but i think this spot is just for group hikers, because it is beside the road without any covers, every cars passing here must see you, it is not safe for solo hiker.

Km18.25 : camping spot can fit 2-3 tents with fire ring beside the river. Some trees and bushes here, very little privacy.

Km18.6 : bus stop here, and i don't know about the bus schedule.

Km18.65 - km19.2 : look like is a paid campground.

Km20.05 : dirt road junction, an old dirt road at left side, flat and without rocks, you can camp here if need. South of RR in this forest also lot spots for camping.

Km23.15 : crossing of a milky stream, just above ankle. It is the last reliable water until Laguna Blanca.

Km26.25 : junction of dirt road and trail, RR is turn to trail now, dirt road will end by damaged and huge blowdown, so turn left and climb up on the trail.

Km27 : information board( with Spanish and English). From the board, RR-CC-A[29.3+5.9] is the official route.

Km29.3 : junction of RR and {16-A}, RR at here is a clear trail, not CC. Easy to follow.

Km29.85 : water spot(-39.51775, -71.65871)! Tiny stream flowing low with fresh, clear and cold water by snow melts, easy to collect. No water at downstream, because it just flow some meters then seep into sand. Some more tiny streams also flowing low beside the trail or across the trail by snow melts, but i think this is the best one in some km.

Km30.6 : viewpoint of Lanín! Some snow patch nearby, flat and easy to walk on.

Km32.6 : Laguna Blanca, cross 2 chocolate stream, just above ankle, but the riverbed is muddy in some steps.

Km33.05 : a 80m snow patch, not steep, not difficult, but you'll drop into the lake if slide.

Km35.2 : junction of RR and {16-A}. Tiny stream flowing good with fresh, clear and cold water by snow melts beside the junction, easy to collect.

Km35.4 : steep snow slope at east side of the pass. Better go around it at right side (north). Tiny stream flowing good with clear water by snow melts, at west side of the pass too.

Ford[36.6/1652] : crossing of a milky stream, above ankle.

Km37.6 - km38 , km39.9 - km40.1 : snow patches, easily go around.

Then i go for {16-02} then {16-03} climbing Volcán Quetrupillán.

{16-02} km0.15 : small stream flowing good with clear water by snow melts, easy to collect.

Km1.65 : snow patch.

Km1.9 : junction of {16-02} and {16-03}, {16-03} maybe sometime have rock cairns, but i just find the trail when it is already very close to summit, so mostly CC go by yourself. {16-02} km2.1 to pass[2.5/1924], almost half is covered by snow, it becomes steep when get close to pass, be careful.

{16-03} km0.45 : snow slope steep go down, i go down at a little north, the slope is much shorter.

Km1.15 : due to lot of snow melts, the milky lake become larger than it shows on map. So walk a little east to go around.

Km1.3 : snow start, i recommend just walking on snow to trail junction waypoint at km2.1, it is gentle.

Km2.1 : tiny stream(-39.51478, -71.73556) flowing low with clear water just beside the trail junction (but i didn't see any trail here.)

Then the climbing is covered by lot of snow. You can walk on a dry rocky slope until km2.45, then choose continue finding dry slope to walk (but they are going around and around so the distance are a little longer and some puds, also sometimes block by snow wall), or climbing up on snow directly.

I climbed on the snow slope, because they are stable and not too steep, looks like better than following rock cairns on the dry slope.

When you arrive km3.7(-39.50145, -71.72655), look up to the mountain top. Of course the sharp peak at left is Quetrupillán, and your target is climbing up to the part at its right side, red colour and a little rocky one, that's the pass(-39.49857, -71.72277), also trail there.

Because most of the slope still covered by snow, so go a little southeast, you'll find a dry rock slope, parallel to GPX tracks. Not too much, but at least some places you can stand on easily and take a short break in climbing. Straight climb up the 40° snow slope to km4.05(2265m) (-39.50003, -71.72333), then traverse to the red part, trail is here(-39.49889, -71.72298). When it close to the red part, the snow slope becomes a little icy, kick step and be careful.

Arrive on the red, you can follow the loose rocky trail to the pass. You can continue climbing up to summit or walking on the rim for views.

After enjoying the moments for volcano, i slide down at here(-39.49886, -71.72313), a good way without rocks. Then skiing back to {16-02}. Lot fun!

I took 4.5 hours for climbing up and 2.5 hours for go down back to Laguna Azul. At my first plan, i want to go down to camp beside the waterfall at (-39.51315, -71.74967) then back to the Laguna Azul on next day, but it looks like lot of snow in the valley after the no trail's trail junction, also need a steep going down the pass. So i just take a round trip even i climbed Quetrupillán with my full backpack.

RR lake,camp[40.2/1597] : Laguna Azul, clear water. Can fit 3-4 tents under some short trees, with fire ring and wind protection, but a little crowded.

Ford[40.3/1593] : lake outlet, wet feet crossing, a beautiful camping spot can fit 1 tent just downstream 20m, another crossing point there too.

Camp[40.3/1601] : still covered by snow patch now.

Km41.7 : camping area with fire pit and log seats, covered by many trees.

X[49.6/997] : 4 way junction, some more junctions at south.

Water[51.1/871] : flowing low with clear water.

Km51.6 : 3 way junction, at left, a good road going down at east side of the valley. At right is RR, go down at west side of valley. Road is heavy damage just after the junction, be careful for crossing, the road is collapsing(-39.60354, -71.81894).

Km51.9 - km52.4 : a large beautiful grassland, nice camping spot. Start from here, the "road" becomes better condition.

X[55.6/618] : junction of RR and a good road, looks like coming from other sidecof valley.

Km57.75: grassland, camping spot.

Settlement, bridge[58.6/440] : the road is damaged before the "bridge", a board bridge (-39.65286, -71.84399) for human crossing. The bridge also is damaged, looks like washed away, so crossing at upstream (-39.65410, -71.84389), rock bar underwater, above ankle. This stream's water is flowing good with clear water. After crossing is a nice spot with lunch, well tree shade. Fire ring and log seats under a tree too, but it is in the area of settlement.

Camp[62.1/486] : i didn't notice the spot when i passed here, maybe I missed it.

Km64.5 : junction of RR and {16-B}, i take {16-B} because of shorter distance to main road, also no need to climb up 120m again as RR.

Settlement, shop[66.5/237] : small shop, a little pricey but good stock for resupply, very friendly. ( I think the shops in Liquiñe is much pricey too)

Then i walked all the way to Liquiñe, no bus and no luck(no successful hitch).

For resupply details read GPT17.

* '''2024-Jan-10 to 2024-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + option 4 +sendero glacier Pichillancahue ( we did a cross country after towards the East to go to the Morador Los volcanoes ) / Yannick & Nolwenn'''
- Water : easy to find
- Snow : still snow left on the Quatrupillen volcano but manageable to go up
- Camping spot : easy to find
- Weather : Sunny
- Resupply : in Pucon to start and in Conaripe at the end of the section

* '''2023-01-02/05 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + volcano Quetrupillán / Hermann & Coline'''

The GPT16 was a really nice experience !

Milagro, who hosted us in Liquiñe, gave us cherries and nuts for the travel ! With that, the sloapses up-hill felt less hard than it was for our legs.

We slept at the Camp Without Water {16} [52.3/794] the first night (and even found water nearby). We arrived at the Laguna Azul the next day.

We stayed there two days, so that I could walk up to the summit of Volcano Quetrupillán.

The ascension was okay. The sunny sky was a bit covered by clouds, but without wind. I just had a headhick after, because of the UVs reflecting on the snow (I guess). There are some places where one's can't avoid walking on it, so I took my time to "read" the landscape (underground rivers etc).

I left the GPT to take the optional road on Locus, that follows the crater at the end. It was scary at the top, but not dangerous.

On the way back, I started by following a group of men on a much easier way going westbound. Then, I went south and it was easy to follow the landlarks I had token outbound (the frozen lake for instance).

There was wind in the mid of the day and two chilians warned us that there would be snow in the night. Therefore, we spend the night at the Laguna Blanca : lot's of wind, but no snow there and even a new glacier river in the morning !

Thanks to the previous posts on Wikiexplora and also to Lukas and Tess we've meet on the way, we took enough water for the next 30kms down-hill. Actually, there was a river (probably due to the storm), even crossing the road at some point, but I'm not sure it was drinkable.

We went to Catripulli instead of Currarehue. We wanted to take a bus to Villarica – where there is a Scotiabank –, and to skip sections 14 & 15, so to join the GPT again at Icalma. This was a bad idea... There's no direct bus between Villarica and Melipeuco ; we had to first reach Temuco. Moreover, there's no bus from Melipeuco to Icalma, so we hitchhiked. (There were not many cars ; it took us a day.)

Food :
1. In Liquiñe, the shop just before the bridge is smaller and more expensive than the others (saying Milagro).
2. There are no piñones at the foot of the Araucanian tree, since the season starts in march (saying a woman who took us in her car).
3. In Catripulli, there's a shop with all you need and more – even argentinian cakes and Malta beers !

* '''2024-Jan-02 to 07 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Huella Andina plus new options / Natalie & Tomáš'''
[Note 2024 November: This is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is a start of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is roughly what corrresponds to GPT16 to middle of GPT18, next log is in GPT18H. Look also at Hannes von S report who followed us:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1754087775097101/.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1758304798008732/.]

In summary, we crossed the border into Argentina from Pucon and gained a ridge beneath Lanin's east face and traversed it towards a hiking trail in Argentina known as "Cara Sur Volcán Lanin". We then utilized the Huella Andina (HA) to end in San Martin. It took us ~5 days.

Day 1: Pucon-border-camp 1
From Pucon we took the Pullman Bus ("IGI LLAIMA") heading to San Martin, Argentina. It is the only company going to Argentina and leaves at 11:00am. I figured it would be the easiest way to cross the border and also the most likely way to keep food from being checked. It worked but it was slow and expensive (19 thousand CLP per person). They never ended up asking about food in the end, but the bus driver told us no fresh food was allowed and to make sure to have your PDI paper (a photo of it works too). The bus driver let us out at the National park guards for the Lanin park (we failed to explain we wanted to get off 2 km down the road). Luckily nobody at the park asked us what we were doing. We just continued walking on the road and got a hitch 2km to the start of the route. It took about 4hours to get from Pucon to the start, border time waits will vary. There just so happened to be a locked gate where we started and an old road, we jumped over it and prepared our things under some Aracaurias.

It looked as if there were many options for access but we decided against following any of the side ridge lines and instead aimed for a green bushy bowl at the top of a gentle valley in front of us. The valley is between a highly cliffy ridge to the right (the first one post Lanin) and a slightly rocky ridge on the left. There was an old road that took us to the base of the slope. The road goes along a circle, one might want to go directly cross country. Anyway, then we marched up the first steep slope through low shrubbery. On top we then made an ascending traverse to the left side of the valley, crossing through a fairly recent burn zone and a creek that runs in the middle. Despite the trees down, the walking was still pleasant, there were cow tracks here and there that we could follow. Looking from top of the first hill where the burnt Araucarias are, there was a nice non bushy c-shaped curve on the left of the creek that looked like it would take you in nicely.

To get to the top of the ridge (or green bowl as I say) you will have to cross some shrubbery but it was never terrible, only ~300m of rather easy bush bashing. However, getting from the creek to the shrubbery was rather steep. We followed a sloped washout, it was a mixture of steep rock (mostly solid) and hollow dirt, which seemed to enjoy engulfing your leg at times (postholing through dirt). I wouldn't worry about it too much, but to some it may be uncomfortably steep.
We made camp at the top of the ridge in a grassy plateau with water (-39.63637, -71.43107), unfortunately it was very windy.

Day 2 - Camp 1 - lanin Traverse - Lago Paimun
The next day we ascended a bit above camp and then followed underneath a ridgeline and made a long traverse with mild up and downs to the main pass before the ugly moraine part near one of Lanin's SE glacier's (-39.66646, -71.47695). The traverse before the moraine was easy, one could take many ways, the terrain was simple and there was lots of water. The moraine however had more obstacles and the hanging glacier up high made crossing in the mid day heat feel a bit intimidating. My main worry was crossing Arroyo Rucu Leufu near the end, my plan was to cross it high but since there was still solid snow covering it, we crossed it easily (breaking through was not a worry but if it happened it would have terrible consequences, therefore maybe aim to cross it higher than where we crossed, when snow is gone, fording should be easier). For the moraine crossing, one could traverse it high or low. My plan was to cross low where the moraine walls were less steep but we did a bit of both, Tomáš traversed closer to the 2000m mark and it was fine for him, I dropped down to see how the lower slopes were and I was happier on them. However if you go low you will have to climb back up no further than the moraine rib ~ here (-39.67443, -71.48657) as it is the one before Arroyo Rucu Leufu.
Once we hit the lookout trail on the other side the 10km decent went very fast. Apart from the unnecessary river crossing we did twice; the signage and gps are misleading and make you ford the river twice but there is a trail now that stays on the west side of the river, no need to cross. Near the end of the trail we took a dirt road on our right to get to camping Mawizache faster. I was told this camping had good food, but I wish we had just gone straight to the boat crossing and camped on the other side. However, bcs of this we never crossed the park entrance so noone ever ended up asking questions...

At Mawizache we had our first taste of bizarre Argentina currency exchange. The camping was an okay price (2mil each) but the dinner ended up costing us a lot more than expected. I had changed a 50us bill to Argentina pesos in Pucon but it was such a terrible rate (25000pesos for a 50, almost half of what I should have gotten) that I could not even afford to buy the dinner. Because of this we had to pay with a 50usd bill or 100usd bill bcs anything less cannot be exchanged in Argentina. We got the change back in pesos at a rate around ~1usd:650pesos. Long story short, it sorted itself out and it was nice to have a dinner on the lake, the trout and wine was excellent but she forgot to make two other dishes we ordered. We bought some white bread loafs from the man at the camping for 1mil each.

Day 3: Lago Paimun - Termas Camping
As for the next day, we crossed Lago Paimun by the little boat with a bell (-39.74619, -71.52482). It cost 3mil each bcs we were not staying at the campsite. Another reason we should have crossed the night before (hours for the boat bell system are 8-13:00 and 15:00-20:30). The camp there is run by a large family, they had bread and probably other food as well. We had to register our names and then the elder showed us the start of the Huella Andina trail behind her house.
The Huella Andina trail was signed and easy to follow. The first half of it on the way to the road was super fast and then near the end it became more slow and slightly grown over, but never terrible. Only one river ford.
The border road that this trail shoots you out on is closed for car traffic, it seemed. There is a barricade at the border checkpoint and no one stationed there. After the checkpoint the road becomes very much a "road" and seems to see a lot of vehicle traffic. We arrived at the hotsprings almost too early as there were a few groups. The hotsprings were once taken care of, now abandoned. There is this incredibly annoying wooden walkway that takes you to them (~800m) and then if you continue on it you get to the camping. The walkway is falling apart in places and there is a small suspension bridge that I hope does not collapse on somebody. We had dinner and got water by this suspension bridge and went back to the hotsprings when everyone was gone. The main one is bath water temperature (it is the largest and with a wooden patio like feature). There is another one maybe 30m before that is more dirty but warmer. The other ones that exist are way too hot, I think they are 60-70 degrees.
Instead of walking back we followed the broken walkway to the Termas camping and slept there. Didn't realize untill the morning it was payed camping, so we payed 2mil each.

Day 4: Termas- Achen Niyeu area -camp near pass
The road was not so bad, we got a hitch for the last 5km. Lots of cars going up to the hot springs but it was a bit too early for downward traffic. Laguna Verde is very popular and we thought they would charge us a day rate so we tried to cross the lagoon where it was narrow - that was a fail, too deep. They didn't charge us anyways so it was a waste of time but they did need us to register. Apart from trying to avoid Laguna Verde, it actually was a nice place in the end. The owners are a young and easy to get along with couple, their shop had lots of treats like pizza, bread, muffins and other basics. The rest of the day was slow for us as we were trying to plan an alternative ridge traverse but then the weather started to move in so we just hid our bags and went up Achen Niyeu quickly. The way down was probably the closest I will get to skiing this year. The plateau around Achen Niyeu was an incredibly beautiful volcanic landscape, easy to sit and admire for some time. Due to weather and Tomáš 's leg acting up we made an early camp in the trees on the other side of the pass. There is a tarped shelter set up where we camped, either for emergencies or for someone else (-39.88473, -71.54229).

Day 5 pass camp- bush camp
We may have missed the rain but we definitely had to deal with the consequences the next morning. The trail is still in good shape down from the pass but since it is still bushy and muddy in spots we got drenched from wet grass and leaves. The refugio Rincón de los pinos would have been a nice place to camp and so would have Auquinco. We went to Auquinco thinking it would be abandoned, but we wanted to see the state of the trail that supposedly goes around the lake, we were hoping there was a chance one could cross Lago Lolog to get to the other trails on the opposite side. It does not look like this is possible without weeks/months worth of machete work. There was a man, a citizen park-ranger or something like that, who was called Juan and based at Auquinco for the summer. He had a funny character and was very welcoming. He offered coffee and a place above his fire to dry our things and also told us no one has used those trails around the lake for at least 10 years.[November 2024: Tomáš has since removed that noexistent trail from OSM, it went west along the northern shore of Lago Lolog.] We enjoyed the pretty surroundings and then headed to the end of the trail near "bush camp" (40.0211644S, 71.3612525W) for our final night. The bush camp is just a few spots in the lake shore, no services, since it is free, but it is far nicer than the paid camping (7.5mil).
Next day we hitched back to San Martin easily.

* '''2023-29-12 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / option 1 and 4 / Jens '''

Hitchhiked from Curarrehue to the trailhead of Option 1.

I didn't pay any entrance fees.

Lots of water until Villarrica volcano. Around the volcano good camping but little water. Water was clean.

Hitchhiked from the ski resort to Pucon. Lots of people in the resort for daywalks.

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Mar-01 to 2023-Mar-05 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / OH-01 & 02 + Quetrupillan summit + Villarica traverse / Martial.'''

Puesco - Pucón
Villarica traverse is indeed an interesting alternative for GPT16. The views on Volcanos are gorgeous and trail in good conditions for the all trip. My personal camping recomandations are Laguna azul, volcan Quetrupillan waterfall (on osm : -39.51160, -71.75365) and estero aihue (39.47713° S, 71.88582° W) or Zanjón pino Huacho for clean water access and sleep under the stars ✨ Although siphon water from the bucket in the zanjon was hard but should be better after recent rains.. Water from the various glaciar rivers is way cleaner in the morning to be drunk. An interesting combo for people in need for a treat would be stopping in Termas Geometricas wich looks to be one of the best attraction of the region.. (20mil or so)
I luckily was granted with nice weather for Quetrupillan climb wich for me is really worth-it. Hopefully you get a lucky ride for the long descent from the centro de ski to Pucón. Take plenty of water if you start nobo !

* '''2023-Feb-22 to 2023-Feb-26 / 4 days / Hiking / OH-01 +03 Villarrica traverse (West-bound?) / Natalie & Tomáš '''

We did not end up following the GPT but instead ended up doing the Villarrica Traverse (so options 01 and 03 of GPT and then some more). It was our last trip before flights back home so ending directly in Pucón made the most sense, just sad that our last hike wasn't actually on the GPT...

Thoughts: Really beautiful, surprisingly diverse and not as many people as expected. The busiest place was at Laguna Azul and the glacier lookout. We are both very happy to have walked it and since it was our last hike, it was a pleasure to be on trails that allowed one to reflect rather than think about the next step. Highlights were the ease of the trails, vistas, Araucaria sillouettes, a return to volcanic landscapes, the crater of Quetrupillan and the forest canopy.

Access: Bus from Curarrehue to Puesco leaves at 5pm, just once a day. It leaves from here;-39.36321, -71.58433 and is white and green. Probably easier to hitch as it only goes to Puesco (aka CONAF). It leaves Puesco to Curarrehue at 730am supposedly.

Description: The traverse is well documented and therefore I will only explain two different side trips. Note that if coming from Puesco the last section between Chinnay camping and the ski hill is scarce of water because most water available is recommended not to drink due to high levels of ash in the melting glacier. The two good sources are; estero aihue; 39.47713° S, 71.88582° W and Zanjón pino Huacho, which is actually just a tap over a bucket; 39.43604° S, 71.99502° W. There is also an app you can use to follow the traverse; https://villarricatraverse.cl/

Camping at Laguna Azul is crowded (in the minds of a GPT hiker) so one can camp on a different beach or up high in the trees on the south side of the lake. Wild camping is supposedly illegal but does not seem to apply for the section of the traverse between Chinnay and the ski resort, there are many bivy spots.

Side trips:
First side trip, Volcán Quetrupillan:
If one is doing the traverse and wants to summit Quetrupillan easily and quickly I recommend following the osm trail on the NW side of the summit, there is a good trail, however we both did something different. Tomáš was successful at making a traverse of the summit and I was not. From lake Azul we followed the GPT option03 until the base of the col where one goes straight up to the crater. I continued on the GPT trail and turned back ~2m from the true summit due to the terrible rock quality but at least the way to the crater was easy (if you are there know that the red dirt is soft and not that steep). Tomáš on the other hand went one ridge further south and was able to easily follow it up to the summit, traverse south on the summit and come down on the osm trail. He notes there were only two bits of simple scrambling but was still easy despite having his bag. After my failed attempt on the summit I just went straight down the West side of the mountain to hit the normal Villarrica traverse and met back up with Tomáš [November 2024: Tomáš'es version is now in OSM and also in our suggestions to the Track files].

Second side trip, glacier Pichillancahue to above "glacier mirrado" and back to normal trail (the route is on OSM):
When coming from Chinnay there is a very obvious trailhead for Glaciar Pichillancahue. Tomáš used this to make a small but high traverse to somewhere near Estero Aihue and therefore avoiding the last bit of road walking and elevation loss. I was lazy and hungry and opted to have lunch at the camping Pichillancahue instead which was a terrible decision because the water there was barely drinkable (ash and dirt) and Tomáš supposedly had nice clean water up top [November 2024: it is in OSM,though you do no want to follow it all the way going west; you want to stay higher and traverse a bit, it is included in our suggestions to track files].

If it wasn't for bad weather I think this traverse could be done easily in 3 days, even two if you are efficient. We took 4 because we had one morning of rain and were in no need of rushing and did the sidetrips. However it would have been nice to have one more free day to rent gear and try to climb Villarrica, but the information on whether or not the summit is open all the way to the top was very confusing. Locals told us it was closed but you could go up most of the way if you had gear but then again there was a mountain guide who said we could go, so it will be a mystery. We both would love to come back to this area with simple glacier gear and climb Villarrica and Lanin and also go back to Sollipulli to traverse its glacier. For now it will have to wait :).

* '''2023-Feb-02 t 2023-Feb-05 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Quetrupillan + OH-01 / Yannic & Mirjam '''

Very beautiful and easy stage. We hitchhiked from Panguipulli to Liquine and then via option 16-B to the camp at Laguna Azul. Very pleasant path in the forest with a slow ascent.
We stayed at the lagoon for 2 days and made a day trip to the volcano. The trail was not always easy because of the strong wind and the occasional snowfields. East of option 16-03 there is another way marked on the map, a little more to the east could be good, because then you avoid the two big snowfields that you see at the top.

From Laguna Azul we continued via Laguna Blanca on the Villarica Traverse (Option 16-01) to Laguna Las Avutardas. The road is well maintained and the landscape after the second pass is fascinatingly different from the previous one. Very nice camping spot at the lagoon.
From the primary road we caught a car to Curarrehue and from there a bus to Pucon.

* '''2023-Jan-29 to 2023-Jan-31 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maks & Gabi '''

Started in Catripulli and hichhiked to 16km of RR. We found it as a good solution to skip road walking as it is not so attractive. Remember to take enough water with you because on ascent to Laguna Blanca there is only one silty river. This part is not so hard unless the temperature is high and you are walking like us in the midday. Probably the ascent road is going to be worst cos they are destroying the trail to build a road ( most probably - it doesn't look nice and it's quite annoying )
There is quite a new gate with old sign on 18,5km ( it looks like entrance to some private propertie with seperate plots), it was open so we just walked through and we didn't meet anyone to ask.

Plateau is really amazing, worth seeing and there are a lots of tiny streams near Laguna Blanca with clean water.
At Laguna Azul there are a lot of tourists sleeping there.
Descent was plesent until the road started.
The entire trail is well visible.
Down there there is community of mapuche, they are really nice and talkative. There is a chance that when going NOBO or sleeping on their land you will have to ask about permission to go through but it shouldn't be a problem.
We hitchhiked with one of them last 3 km of RR.

* '''2023-Jan-27 to 2023-Jan-29 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Quetrupillan / Will '''

I also came in through Catripulli. I caught two quick rides but was still left with three hours of hot uphill road walking. If you aren't worried about connecting footsteps I bet you could find a better start/end point. The other hikers out there (on the Villarrica traverse) were mostly ending at Puesco, I heard rumors of a bus there. Sounds like a much better route if the bus exists. This is marked as option 1.

Coming out of the woods the alpine section was beautiful but short. I spent two nights at Laguna Azul, taking a side trip up Quetrupillan. There were a lot of fun snowfields to navigate. My new shoes were grippy enough to get me through easily even though I didn't bring my trekking poles. Most of the water was chalky.

The final scramble up to the summit (after reaching the snow filled crater) was treacherous. Might not be worth it. I went up around the right because it looked like a more gradual climb but I had a few big solid looking boulders come loose and tumble down. The route straight up seems better.

Laguna Azul was bustling, both nights I was camped with a few Europeans doing the Villarrica traverse. Met a crazy dutch couple biking it. I even heard that there were some people visiting by helicopter, before I showed up.

At the end I walked down to Liquiñe, lots of food places along the road. I camped at the Termas de Punulaf (decent, 15000 pesos) before continuing onto section 17H (highly recommended!).

* '''2023-Jan-23 to 2023-Jan-24 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Anna & Christopher'''

Catripulli - Reyehueico
Short and easy section!

From Pucón we took a bus at 19:30 to Catripulli (Buses Currarehue, last one leaves at 21:00). From there we hitchhiked to km 18 of the RR. We camped next to Estero Huililco (silty water as the others mentioned).

The next accessible water source is the ford of Estero Huililco at km 23. The walking until the plateau is easy (dirt roads and good paths), no navigation issues at all.
Around Laguna Blanca there was still some clear water of the snowmelt. Here walking got a bit tougher due to the sand, but the plateau really is beautiful. After Laguna Blanca there is a good, visible path again until Laguna Azul. We camped at the Laguna and had the first rainy/stormy night.

Because of the bad weather we didn't climb the volcano the next day and went down directly. It's a good path the whole way. Around 4 km before Reyehueico we got a ride directly to Panguipulli :)

* '''2023-Jan-03 to 2023-Jan-05 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Véronica '''

Route: Catripulli - Laguna Blanca - Laguna Azul - summit of Volcán Quetrupillan - Reyehueico

I found this section beautiful, and quite easy, since most of the time you are on 4x4 tracks or well-maintained CONAF trails. No navigation issues whatsoever.

Pucón is a bustling hiking town, great place to get new gear/shoes and resupply. I stayed a few days at Chili Kiwi Hostel there, highly recommend! Buses from Pucón to Catripulli and Curarrehue are very frequent, I did not have to wait.

I started in Catripulli because the road walk is shorter from there. I was very lucky and ended up getting a ride (without even trying) up to the end of the gravel road beyond Rinconada, where a wooden gate marks the start of a lovely forest trail. As others have mentioned, Río Huililco is quite silty, and although the trail follows this river a while, I didn't collect any water there. The first night I camped at the treeline before the final climb to Laguna Blanca (before the start of the CC section). I found some good water in the ravine east of the trail, but it required some bushwhacking down a steep hill covered in vegetation.

The plateau up by Laguna Blanca is beautiful, there are multiple creeks feeding the lake — some of them are silty, but others are clear, just pure snowmelt. The cross-country section had a nice path running through most of it, so navigation was very easy. Between Laguna Blanca and Laguna Azul, there are still some snow patches, but they are easy to walk across or around.

I dropped most of my gear off at Laguna Azul to climb the volcano. I started around 11 a.m. and got back at 4 p.m., this included an almost hour-long break at the top to take in the spectacular views of Volcán Villarrica and Volcán Lanín. There's still a fair bit of snow on Quetrupillan, and instead of following the GPS I went up my own way to the rim, avoiding most of the snowfields. The crater is filled with snow, it's awesome! Coming back down, I half ran, half slid down a giant snow field, which was a lot of fun. That night I went for a swim and camped at Laguna Azul, a beautiful spot. For the first time on the GPT, there were other people (local tourists) camped with me there!

The rest of the trail down to Reyehueico is easy, downhill through a mature forest. Once you get to Trafún Chico, the trail becomes a gravel road. I was able to hitch the last couple kilometers to the main road, and get a ride to Panguipulli to resupply and head down to GPT19 after.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2022-Jan-01 / 5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + summit of Quetrupillan / Molly og Melissa '''

5 days - including a very short day due to bad weather
We were passed by a car on the gravel road shortly after Reyehueico. They told us that the place marked as camp on the GPS was closed, but we could camp on their land a little before on the place marked bridge. They wanted 5000 pesos per person, and there are no facilities, so we found it a little expensive but didn't want to discuss in the rain. They also sold us freshly baked bread which were huge and the best we have had so far, as well as sopaipillas. The gravel road here was pretty, but a lot of aggressive dogs who could easily crawl under their fences to follow us. We only had to climb one gate which seemed to be more to keep in cows than to keep out any hikers. At the waypoint gate there was nothing.
We camped right before the waypoint water before Laguna Azul.
At Laguna Azul there are two camp waypoints, the first is a little spot on the river bank, the second is the "real" camp with lots of spots in a little forest right next to the lake. It's nice, but there have been left a lot of garbage.

From there, you follow the Villarica traverse trail for some kilometres through very beautiful landscapes. When you reach the valley where Lago Blanco is (it really is white), you leave the trail for some fairly easy cross-country around the lake. On the far side, the whole valley was covered in water and we had to walk barefoot, but it was after three very rainy days.
Finding the path at treeline was a little difficult, but we just made sure to be right on the trail on the GPS and found it. Then followed a short trip through beautiful aucaria forest, followed by a gravel road. Here, we saw several "no entrar" signs meant for people going towards the national park, but there was no one around. We even asked for water while still in the no entrar-zone as we didn't know, and weren't told off. It was difficult to find a campsite, but at La Rinconada there was a house saying "Es bienvenido aquí", maybe you could ask there.
We accidentally walked to catripulli instead of currarehue as we missed the turn off and realized too late.

Water:
Until Laguna Azul, no problem. At Lago Blanco we didn't find any streams that weren't chalky, though we thought that some streams running down the mountain on the far right side might look better. We didn't investigate, though, as we thought we had enough. However, Estero Huilinco was the same, so we ended up asking at a house if we could get some water.

Summit:
We basecamped at Laguna Azul and followed the nicely marked trail up. Be aware that the summit route diverges after about a kilometre, with no trail to be seen. We followed the GPS for a while but decided to walk to the crater rim somewhere else, as the summit seemed more difficult and the height difference isn't that big anyway. The volcano itself looked a lot like Volcan Puyehue, but the views were different of course, and the crater had a lot more snow. It was great to spend an extra day above the treeline.

* '''2021-Dec-05 to 2021-Dec-07 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / Villarrica Traverse / Alex Abramov '''

We made Villarrica Traverse here. This traverse is an excellent variant to go in (out) to (from) GPT.

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Feb / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Matthieu'''

From Liquiñe to Catripulli
Following the RR, I personnally never had to cross any barriers of barbed wire or closed portals. It is all an official CONAF trail.
I used Lago Azul as a base camp to do the ascent of the summit. Awesome place.
A little cheer to Ty, America and Sanita with who we had (I assume) the biggest GPT hikers camp of the year !

-The ascent:
Better use your head than your GPS, avoiding the snow to go up. The path I took was finally closed to the OH 002, going between the snow fields, but I never crossed any trail road.
The very end is quite steepy and the rocks easy to break, and you have to climb a little bit to arrive to the final cairn. Better do it with good weather conditions and without your big bag ! I wasnt confident with going down the same way, so at the cairn I just took directly west down the rocks and actually found a downhill of good sand, really easy to do, fast and safe. No climbing down this way. I joined my previous tracks after, near the OH 002.

-Water supply:
As Ty say, No water between the end of Lago Blanco and a little bit before the Estero Huililco. The track is easy and fast thow in the forest, and I didnt take more water supply going down.

I didnt do the final forest part just before Currarehue, hitchhiking to Catripulli.

* '''2020-Feb-27 / 4.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Catripulli Start & Optional end to Conaripe / Ty & America '''

We started at Catripulli because it was a bit shorter road walk compared to Curarrehue. Be aware of the big waterless start. You do have (mostly) friendly people on the road who are more than welcome to help with water. After Comunidad Rinconada (maps.me) don’t expect any water (besides the extremely chalky river water) all the way up to Laguna Blanco. Small Water falls on the right side of the lake have great clear water. We camped at Laguna Blanco by said falls a bit off the track file to find shelter from the wind. Then camped at Laguna azul the next day to summit the following morning. Beautiful place. Actual summit is sketchy, so we hiked to the rim and were perfectly content with that. I don’t recommend taking the optional OH-TL-V@16-02-#002 over the pass. It looked sketchy/snowy. The optional a bit further was perfectly fine. On the way down to conripe on OH-TL-V@16-02-#003 there is a good place to camp by water with plenty of wood ~1.5 km after the marked water source. We had luck hitching a ride from the termas at the bottom right to Conripe.

* '''2020-Feb-7 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo '''

3 days for this amazing section. Trail in good condition, no navigation difficulties. At 39°23'11"S 71°37'48"W, where it says "se vende leña eucalyptus", we didn't climb the huge locked gate to our right but just continued the minor road. We passed two unlocked gates and got back to the regular route after 1km. Shortly afterwards we arrived at a high fence of seven strands of barbed wire, where we turned left into the forest, following an almost invisible path, and after 500m finally found a gate and got back to the regular route after 1km.

* '''2020-Feb-06 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Frank'''

Came from GPT15, resupplied @ 2 supermarkets in Curarrehue. Going up from Curarrehue they are logging in the forest but track still clear. Went over the fence with 7 strands of barb wire. Later there is a wooden gate saying 'No Entry Residents Only' went over it onto track, no one around. When you cross the Estero Huilico fill up with water. You can wade it but if you go down on the left about 20 metres there is a footbridge hidden in the forest. Later you are near the river but it is in a gorge with dense vegetation so it's not accessible. Made a dry camp high up in the forest before the lakes. Hardly any snow left on the route.

Near the end of the route there is no place to camp at 'Camp 119' but continue a little down the road & there is a tiny field just before 'Bridge 51' where you can camp. Just before it the road goes round in a loop, on the lower part of the loop are two houses next to each other. Ask there if it's OK to camp by the bridge. Just after the bridge I continued straight to the main road (marked bus, shop) to resupply. However, it's not necessary to do that, if you continue on the RR you will find shops in Liquine.

* '''2019-Nov-13 / 7 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR from Liquiñe to where the trail joins the S-947 / Sophie & Hendrik '''

We were 7 days on the trail, of which 2 were just camping out bad weather (23 walking hours) . First day we started late and went to what the first camp on the map. Next we went to the camp without water from the track files (We found some stream there. After filtering amd treading it with chloride we were able to drink it.) We stayed there one day, waiting for better weather. Next day we went to the Fort at Laguna Azul. However, we did not cross it until two days later, as we first waited for better weather conditions. Then we crossed the volcano and camped below the treeline on the other side. Last day we hiked to S-947 and hitchhiked to Pucón for some Food and a real bed.

What we liked: Sudden changes of landscapes, beautiful Araucaria forrest, remoteness (didn't meet people for 5 days), breathtaking views and scenes on the volcano, the snow was beautiful (obviously depends on the season), the many plushy chilean tarantulas on the north side.

What we did not like so much: The gravel roads on both ends of the section.

* '''2020-Jan-22 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Tom & Maddie'''

No issues, trail in good condition and cross country section is not hard to navigate. We took a bus out to Panguipulli at 08:00 on a weekday. We decided to skip 17 and 18. We then bussed to Los Lagos and then Futron and then to Rininahue. We then got a hitch back onto the regular route of 19 37km in. Less than 8hrs off the trail to skip 17/18.

* '''2020-Jan-31 / 2 days / Hiking / NOBO / OH-02 Start from Termas el Rincon (Conaripe) to Currarehue / Jean & Virginie'''

To start the option track (16-02) after el Rincon termas, we have to pass a gate closed but it was possible to pass on the left. We didnt see anyone inside.
After few kilometers on the minor road in good condition, we pass a small house where the guy explained us the track (turn on thé right at the arrow marked Laguna to get on the trail - track a little bit different from the gpt route but that join it further). After we went up on Quetrupillan volcano with amazing view. Trail in good condition and easy to navigate. This option join the regular route at the laguna Azul, nice site to camp. After the cross country section was not difficult to follow and the end until Currarehue was alternation of (a bit) overgrown trails and minor roads (+ some barbed wire).
Bus to Pucon every 20 min from Currarehue.

==Season 2018/19==

* '''2019-Nov-18 / Sophie & Hendrik'''

90% - 95% of the area from 1500m upwards are completely covered in snow. Think about snow shoes and be careful as there are melting streams covered and hidden by snow.
Also, unlike us, keep in mind that snow reflects the sun and can cause burns from below on your nose and chin.

==Season 2017/18==

* '''Kara Davis'''

Follow the main road, 199-CH, south out of Curarrehue until the gravel road turn off, S-981. After several kilometers, the road transitions to single track through a eucalyptus forest. Be careful to not follow one of the several other tracks that wind through the forest. The trail exits onto a gravel road, S-947, that follows Estero Huilico. Turn off onto a 4WD track, but be aware there are several other 4WD track spurs. The trail narrows into an obvious single track as you enter Parque Nacional Villarrica. Be prepared for the possibility of snow during this section at higher elevations. At treeline the trail ends and the cross-country traverse begins.
This cross-country traverse follows the volcanic landscape at the base of Volcán Quetrupillán. During high snow years, Laguna Blanca may be frozen and snow covered. Be aware that snowpack may make parts of the GPS route difficult, and keep safety in mind when choosing a route. Instead of following the recommended route which ascends through a chute, snowpack forced us to climb up to a pass further to the left and then rejoin the route. Depending on the time of year, Laguna Azul may also be frozen, but water is available at the stream crossing at the southern end. After beginning the descent into the forest, try and find a well maintained trail. The trail joins a dirt road, T-447, which continues until the paved highway, 201-CH, to Carringue.
Town: Carriringue.
Carriringue is a tiny town with a small market which offers snacks but is difficult to resupply out of. There are also several signs advertising Cabañas.

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Pucón:
About 30 minutes bus ride off trail. A hiking tourism town that has everything a hiker might need. Very good resupply option in Pucón if you're doing the Villarica Traverse option: República Granel. They have a big selection of dry foods like nuts, seeds, fruit, spices, etc. Really valuable for hikers and not too expensive!

*Catripulli:
A little down the road from Currarehue. Has two small shops which probably sell pastas and other basic stuff

*Currarehue:
You can rent a cabin for 50 000 pesos (ask at supermercado Katty) (February 2025 - Peggy)

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

Quentin : Currarehue is kind of a big city, where you'll find easily places to resupply (there's at least 4 supermarkets and 10 minimarkets), foodplaces and accomodation (cabanas, hospedaje and hostel (at the end of the city)). Didn't checked in all supermarkets, but there's a good chance to find Gaz in this city I reckon, if not in supermarkets, probably in ferretería ?

You can buy bread and sopaipillas at the house right before the "bridge" waypoint just before Reyehueico.

A house in La Rinconada sells eggs

Some Aucaria trees

=Transport to and from Route=

2022-Jan:
Busses go from Panguipulli to Reyehueico on weekdays, and from Valdivia to Panguipulli (two hours bus ride) every day. Hitching was quite easy for us even though it was raining.

The bus from Currarehue through Catripulli to Pucón leaves approximately every 15 minutes on weekdays, and every 30 minutes on weekends - goes in both directions - about 30 minutes

(2020-Feb)

Bus Pucón - Curarrehue

Mo-Sa 11:00

Su 12:15

Operator Igi Llaima, Terminal, Palguín 550

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT16 - Volcán Quetrupillan]]

=Images=

[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_109172879.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|[[Volcán Lanín]] from GPT16]]
[[File:Quetrupillan 01.jpg|thumb|center|1100px|[[Volcán Quetrupillán]] from GPT16]]
[[Archivo:Greater Patagonian Trail (1).jpg|thumb|center|1100px|Greater Patagonian Trail, section 16]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226459.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226460.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226461.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226462.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226596.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_109173354.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_109172977.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_109173084.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]
[[File:GPT_10_Volcán_Quetrupillan_119226451.jpg|thumb|center|1100px]]

GPT15 (Curarrehue)

2026-02-17T19:51:48Z

Ben McLuckie: /* Season 2024/25 */

GPT21 (Lago Todos Los Santos)

2026-02-17T15:32:49Z

Ben McLuckie: /* Season 2024/25 */

'''[[GPTs|List of all GPT sections]]'''

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=Overview=
=Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions=

==Season 2025/26==

'''2026-02-03 to 2026-02-10 / 8 days/ Hiking/ WEBO/ Options 3, 2B (Refugio Viejo)/ Isabelle & Sander

There’re some great recent report so we’ll just stick to some short additions.

In general: great mountains in Argentinean part and beautiful forested valley in Chile. We expected busy trails but mostly just met one or two groups per day. Maybe because the first day had a little bit of rain. Only 1 tabaño in 8 days, of which 6 were sunny. Trails are very well maintained.

Day 1 - Colonia Suiza to Refugio Italia, short day. Took the bus at 8 am from Bariloche, wanted to buy some fruit in Colonia Suiza but everything still closed (all shops and restaurants seem to open at 12:30). A handful of day hikers. Some rain. Refugio wants you to reserve camping spot before, some spots are well sheltered. Windy night.

Day 2 - Refugio Italia to osm wild camp between steep passes at -41.17616, -71.64804
Walking the shore of Laguna CAB was almost possible with dry feet, low water levels?
The osm wild camp -41.17616, -71.64804 is very nice, many sheltered places, a little pool for bathing. One other group of Argentinians.

Day 3 - to little lakes 2 km before Laguna ilon
At steep path just east of Lago creton: stay close to cairns. Easy to miss the path. A ‘negative’ sign of two bamboo sticks in a cross also helped us when we took a wrong turn. Between the little lakes where we camped you’ll find many flat sheltered spots, perhaps better to continue to official camping at laguna Ilon, but we didn’t reserve beforehand.

Day 4 - short day to Pampa Linda
Camping Rio Manso is very nice. We hoped for some better resupply but could just find lots of cookies and snacks. At camping vuriloche they had some fruits and also batteries and gas. Although Argentinian Gendarmeria is open until 9 (?) you can only get stamps between 8 am and 6 pm.

Day 5 - long day to Refugio viejo del tronador
Chileans carabineros were super nice. Explained its for them a privilege to stay at this pass and do it only once for one month. Although they looked a bit surprised we could leave some stuff in their shed which we didn’t need at the Refugio. Refugio viejo is spectacular. It was Saturday and spent the night with 6 others from Bariloche, felt a bit like hanging with the locals. Most were camping but it seemed hard to get any stakes in the ground. We understood it’s often empty during the week.

Day 6 - down to Settler {21-02} [92.9/592]
You can camp at this settler for 10k Chilean pesos per tent.

Day 7 - long day to Camp {21-02} [120.0/323]
Termas vuriloche super nice and hot. Just when we jumped in a helikopter landed across the hanging bridge at the Refugio. We’re expecting some fancy tourists but turned out they only dropped off some gas canisters for the Refugio.
Later in the forest a cool tarantula dragging a frog behind.
Beautiful flowering big Ulmo trees! Blossoms everywhere.
This camp at the lake is nice and you’ll find some shelter but the water tasted rotten even after filtering (although our filter froze one night so it might not filter properly…). The spot 200 m more south just across the river is probably with better water but less views perhaps.

Day 8 - to Ralun
After one hour hiking it started raining which didn’t stop till the end of the day. We got soaking wet and the trail extremely muddy but still ok to walk. Also quite windy at the lake so we didn’t stop and just continued to ralun. To our surprise one family was making a daytrip in the pouring rain and picked us up on their way down with their car and brought us to Cochamo where we stayed two nights to prepare for gpt 22. Hostal Mauro (23k) was 45k for two person room and had a kitchen with a burning stove, but not really clean. Hostel bicycletta is really nice but dorm was full and double room was 55k and no heating to dry clothes.

'''2026-01-26 to 2026-01-29/ 4 days/ Hiking/ WEBO/ Options 3, 2, 2A/ Greg Carter

Not much to add to Stiina’s and Bailey’s notes, which I agree with.

I did this route due to limited time and at the end changed my plan due to bad weather. However, apart from some sections of poor trail mentioned by Stiina and others, it was a relatively easy way to experience some wonderful mountain terrain in the Bariloche area.

Following Bailey’s experience I didn’t pay for a park pass and no-one checked me either.

Attraction: 5/5
Difficulty: 3-4/5

Day 1
I caught a local public bus (MiBus) from Bariloche to Colonia Suiza. Very easy and you can pay with card on the bus (approx ARS 5,000 depending on where you get on).

I hiked to and camped at Laguna Lluvu (aka CAB). Very nice camping by the lake.

Day 2
I hiked to and camped at Laguna Ilón. To avoid the crowds at the huge campground I camped north of the lake on a nice flat grassy area off the OSM trail connecting Option 3 to 3A (at -41.18572, -71.73849). This is a dry camp so collect water beforehand.

Day 3
I intended to hike Options 3A and 2 but the weather became rainy and cloudy so I hiked on the autobahn (love that description by Stiina!) trail to Pampa Linda for rest, beer and wifi, whilst awaiting expected good weather the next day.

Note the public WiFi is weak/ poor at the information centre, and best/strong at Albergue Pampa Linda. There you pay for camping at Rio Manso (ARS 14,000/ noche) which is located 100m to the south on the other side of the main car park.

Day 4
This day the weather was perfect. I hiked Options 2 and 2A to Refugio Otto Meiling, return. Spectacular views of the waterfalls, glaciers and surrounding mountains. However, until the last section going up the open rocky ridge, the trail is relatively boring, being mostly road and autobahn trail.

Late that day I hitched most of the way from Pampa Linda to Bariloche, then caught an Uber. Note that due to the narrow dirt road from Pampa Linda, outbound vehicles are not allowed to leave until 4pm. So you have a captive audience for hitching. If you can’t get a hitch, buses leave at 5pm, and cost around ARS45,000.

In Bariloche I stayed at a friendly hostel for ARS 24,000/noche. Casa Central Hostel at 1266 General Antonio Tiscornia (-41.13951, -71.29268). The manager is Nelson, who is on WhatsApp: ‪+54 9 2944 24‑3261‬'''

*''' 2025.07.01 / 4.5 days / Hiking / NO/EABO / RR + Op. 2 (Tronador) + Op. 3 (Lago Nahuel Huapi/ 5 Lagunas) / Kris and Stiina'''

We combined sections 22N and 21 from El Manso to Colonia Suiza - 8 days total - 3,5 days for section 22N from El Manso to Cochamó via La Junta.
A resupply in Cochamó and hitch to Ralún (El Cruce) for Section 21. 4.5 walking days for section 21 options 2 & 3.

(Continued from section 22N)

Day 4 - After the lunch and resupply in Cochamó we opted for the magic thumb once again. There was supposed to be a bus at 15:30 going through Cochamó towards Puerto Mont, but our thumbs summoned a ride before the bus arrived, though the bus was running a few minutes late.
We got a ride to El Cruce - X, Bus {21} [76.9/64] and when we were stepping out of the car the bus passed us.
We called Miguel +56 9 9866 2101 (nr. provided previously by Dorota) and he wanted 20k CLP for the 10km ride, so we decided to walk.
In all honesty, after the few previous days of walking in a deep, dark, muddy forest on anything but a flat ground it felt great to finally be walking again, despite it being on a dusty +28C gravel road. There were even views behind us of the Estuario Reluncavi fjord and Volcán Yates. No cars passed us on the way up though some came down seemingly with people coming from the Lago Cayutué. When we got to the lake we met an Argentinian couple camping that had just done the hike from Pampa Linda so they shared some useful information about the upcoming. Later a bunch of youngsters came to the lake for camping aswell. For the most part they all behaved nicely. It is an excellent campsite by the lake with views of Volcán Puntiagudo and the water was a perfect temperature for swimming.

Day 5 - A bit of a green tunnel most of the day, from Lago Cayutué to Termas Vuriloche with some openings in the meadows however that’s where all them tabanos were hanging out. All fords were easy and there was plenty of water en route, we didn’t carry more than half a litter at a time. The nice thing about the forest was that it kept things cool while it was very hot out in the sun.
It seemed like a popular traverse, we met 3 guided groups and some other hikers along the way, mostly Argentinian.

Termas Vuriloche:
Ford {21-02} [101.3/351] - can be avoided if you go through the settlers yard and follow the osm trail that leads to a suspension bridge: -41.24813, -72.04719 across the river. Right after the bridge there is a trail going up and a trail going down. Following the upper trail brings you to the meadow with campsite described by Clara. And the trail going down brings you to the river. And some termas? We didn’t go down this trail our selves we used a different one.
The settler (“Jose/ Coche”? - Peggy) was at home and saw us, we greeted him an asked if it’s ok if we pass here to go to the termas to which he said yes, no problem.

The trail then goes by the newly built private refuge - Nana Roth that is owned by a company called Expediciones Petrohue -41.24847, -72.04779. A little googling showed that guests are brought there by helicopter to enjoy the termas and stay at the Refugio, it did look very fancy and a really unexpected out of place building when it suddenly appeared in front of us.

We camped here -41.24555, -72.04866 in a meadow, but as described by Clara, there is an established campsite, sheltered in the forest with fireplace and tent sites, however there was already a guided Argentinian group camping there, mostly older folk.

Looking at the campsite from the meadow there is a trail on the left (south) side leading down to the river where there are a few termal pools, one is built with concrete walls but very private, comfortable and perfect temperature, we didn’t want to leave.
Another more natural looking terma just on the rocky beach, a bit warmer.
But as I said there are probably more termas that could be accessed from the trail leading down from the suspension bridge because we saw people going there in swimming outfits when we took the upper trail (the one marked on the OSM)

Day 6 - From the Termas Vuriloche to Pampa Linda still a lot in the forest but finally some views of Tronador were opening up.

The trail passes Settler {21-02} [92.9/592] and crosses Rio Aguas Turbio twice, before and after the settler there are bridges on both sides.

Another new Refugio Baguales being built here -41.22699, -71.96225 by the same company that had constructed the Refugio Nana Roth. Refugio was similar design, built from the same materials on the outside.

Ford, Camp {21-02} [88.9/802] - there are two streams and both have hanging bridges, but a bit sketchy ones. The fords possibly looked easier and quicker.
Not really a place for a camp. A picnic table was there but I didn’t see a place for a tent.

Puesto {21-02} [86.9/1030] (Huenchupen) - as mentioned by other is supposedly a refugio. There is a small stream right before it with a flat spot for a tent, another spot a bit after and probably one by the refugio or just inside it like Dorota did.

No problem at the border, make sure your passport is stamped with exit stamp and they give you a paper slip (a double /copy paper) that you have to show to Argentinian border control.
The place and the campsite there is very nice but also very tabano infested. Tap water available.

Camp ? {21-02} [78.1/1241] - not really, didn’t see a spot for a tent, like Peggy mentioned too much vegetation.
If really in a need of camp on that stretch of a trail then here was one: -41.23509, -71.80915 - there is a ford and some flat, bushless spots for a tent I believe the spot that Peggy meant.

After arriving in Pampa Linda we went straight to the border control. Supposedly since covid Argentinians don’t stamp your passport upon entering. However last time (2024 Jan.) we had a stamp and still had some issues when leaving the country, because we were “not in the system”. Due to this we asked them if they could do it so that we could leave the country with less hassle. They stamped the “copy side” of paper slip that we got when leaving Chile. Which we then needed when we were leaving Argentina again.

We camped at Auberge Pampa Linda Camping / Rio Manso camping. 14k ARS pp, shower 15k ARS pp, we washed in the river like any other day.
Dinner at the auberge, fast food, papas fritas is what we have been craving. Card payment accepted and Fernando working there was the friendliest and nicest guy in Argentina.
We camped on the spot nearest to the camp entrance and were “catching” some of the public wifi in our tent. It worked pretty well by the information building (closed) making the wifi, even some tables outside for longer surfs.

Camping Los Vuriloches 30k ARS pp, with shower included. Also has a nice restaurant with some healthier food options and a small shop, not really a resupply, but enough snacks and drinks, fresh fruit. Cash only!

Day 7 - From Pampa Linda we took the option 3 (Lago Nahuel Huapi) however the actual name for this trail is Cinco Lagunas.

It is a very popular trek to do around Bariloche and we met very many people doing it despite it actually being quite demanding in some places with some quite poor sections of the trail in other. But mostly all the locals that we met had a very different philosophy and approach to hiking which we found very interesting. Just one example, by the time we go to Laguna Cretón at around 14:30, the people that camped there the night before were just finishing drinking matte and packing up to start their day. A different approach, for them it’s a camping trip with some hiking whereas for us it’s a hiking trip with some camping. We should try it the other way some time.

It is a very good trail (autobahn of a trail) from Pampa Linda to Laguna Ilón, but after that the trail gradually gets worse and worse.
Ford {21-03} [50.5/848] - has a bridge.

Lots of people camping at Ilón, at least a hundred. (It was Saturday). There you can buy some food, snacks and drinks (Cash only!). And the prices are quite outrageous, Chile felt like a really cheap country in comparison.
A very beautiful location but I wouldn’t want to camp there at least not on a weekend.

Again as mentioned by others the trails going up and down the passes are not in the greatest conditions. There are some cairns and some blue and red markings, here and there but it is still possible to loose the trail because the loose terrain in some places can be engaging and requires full focus.
Up and down - Pass {21-03} [38.4/1942] (Paso Cerro Capitan) was quite simple there was a trail up albeit steep and sandy in places and it sort of fizzled out on the way down mainly because of the rocky terrain, but plenty of cairns to follow.

The Laguna Azul was truly azul in comparison to Jujuy and Cretón, very beautiful contrast with the surrounding mountains.

The Up to the Pass {21-03} [33.5/1911] (Filo Cerro Cristales) was steep and tbh the trail didn’t make sense from the beginning to the end and it is potentially dangerous due to a rock fall that could be caused by others.
First it goes steeply down through some trees and to a wet meadow instead of just traversing from the pass by Laguna Cretón. Then it just goes straight up through the steepest part of the face. I definitely wouldn’t want to be on this super loose trail, below some of the very overburdened hikers with 6 bags on all sides, that we saw plenty of, slipping and sliding down the most simple trail because they can’t see where they are going. The “trail” for some mysterious reason is designed to channel any dislodged rocks above you, right at you. We were lucky and there was nobody above us, but I can definitely see a potential hazard there. This part of the trail could definitely be made a lot safer by adding some longer zig-zags traversing the face and spreading the people out instead of keeping everyone in a “death culoir”
Plenty of blue and sometimes red markings, just need to look for them.
Down on the other side was way less steep and mostly on solid granite.

And then the Pass {21-03} [28.0/1815] (Filo Cerro CAB) was a mirror of the previous pass, first up on lower angle mostly solids granite slabs except for the final bit and then down a steep and loose slope but at least traversing the face for the most part. We also didn’t follow the gpx but just went straight down to the NW bypassing the cliffs on the other side. Not sure whether it was any more difficult than the actual route.

We were incredibly lucky with the weather and the views from all the passes were just incredible, we missed those, all the previous days being in the forest.

We camped on the west side by Laguna C.A.B. / Lluvu (locals call it CAB and also some signs reffered to it as CAB not Lluvu.
A nice swim in the lake after a long day but it takes a walk to get to the deep/swimmable part of the lake. A very few other campers by the lake. Though the 20 people we talked to on the way there all had camped there the night before.

Day 8 - There are no actual trails around the either side of the lake so you have to walk through the lake or potentially do a very annoying BB. The lake has actually a pleasant, flat and hard packed bottom near the shore, very easy to walk on even without shoes, a nice foot massage.
After the lake there is a mierda trail pretty much all the way down to the Ford {21-03} [23.0/1133] (Arroyo la Chata) after which it slowly starts to improve again. There is a possibility to camp by the ford. The “ford” is doable on rocks and logs.

The trail up to the Pass {21-03} [20.1/1780] (Filo del Cerro Negro) is actually not too bad except for a short but very steep and sandy part just before exiting the forest. And then after the pass it’s pretty much back on normal trails, especially oncce past the Refugio.

No card payment at the Refugio Manfredo Segre, solo efectivo, Pepsi - 7k ARS.
A lot of people on the trail afterwards and with every km closer to Colonia Suiza more and more people were on the trail.

A massive camp - “Camp {21-03} [16.1/1185]” over 50 people were wild camping there, though when we passed there in the afternoon, most of the people were still drinking matte and packing up in a true Argentinian fashion. I can only imagine how much toilet paper you could find in the bushes around that place. I definitely wouldn’t take the water from anywhere in Arroyo Goye stream.

And btw the pipe from the Refugio toilets went into the gully where the river originates from. There are side streams along the way.

Somewhere else in this valley of surprises a bit lower down there was a school group with about 40 school kids that had camped there. When we were passing there, some of the kids (teenagers) looked quite desperate running around with toilet paper rolls in their hands, one guy was just squatting behind the rock right next to the trail. The shit smell in the air was a direct consequence of a poor planning, bringing so many school kids to a camp-out without any facilities.

Even though we thought we saw many people on the trail, when we got to Colonia Suiza it felt like we had suddenly come to some sort of festival. Supposedly the reason was the Sunday fair due to which the place was extra busy.

We took Uber from Colonia Suiza to Bariloche as after the 28 days of hiking (not all in a row) we were a bit too tired and smelly for the bus. It also started raining shortly after we got back, perfect timing.

Overall, definitely a very beautiful and worth doing section. Bring some ARS if you want some goodies and probably, avoid doing it on weekends if you can.

After 27 GPT sections and over 2000km of trail covered over 3 trips in 6 years we now plan to take a bit of a longer break from GPT. It’s an amazing project and truly a special place to explore and find an adventure and solitude in the mountains that’s not that easy to come by these days. Thank you GPT community!

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

*'''GPT21/ 2026 Dec,Jan 31-4 / WEBO / OH03, OH02A, OH2B/ 4.5 days/ hiking /Bailey'''
General notes -

Incredibly beautiful section

Killed at least 100 horse flies

When entering Chile to bariloche they asked how long i intended to stay in Argentina. I said 5 days. I read a previous comment saying that you can stay for less but not more than the time you say you intend to stay in Argentina. So I would recommend giving yourself more time maybe

Costs - bus to trail head, camping at Refugio (10,500 ars), bus to Puerto varas (2000 CLP,)

Difficulty - 3/5

Attractiveness - 5/5

Day 1

Bariloche felt like a mega city compared to everywhere else

Bus to Colonia suzia pay with card number 10.

Started after noon. Trail was great up until Launga Negra

First ford is a bridge. All the fords were okay. Mostly rock hops, there's a bridge or calf height

I camped on the pass after cab Laguna. The ascent had cairns going in multiple directions but mostly upwards.

Camp 1

Pass {21-03} [28.0/1815]. No water, heaps of flat ground, not really wind protected

Day 2 - Option 2A Refugio otto meiling

I forgot the pass but I missed the cairns for one of the descents and had to do a awkward down climb

The trail from pampa Linda to the top was pretty nice. I found some water along the way. This was between the ford (a bridge) and the steep incline where the trail starts and road finishes. The ford/ bridge had murky water

Camp 2

Refugio otto meiling

Nice spot, heaps of people. I didn't reserve my camping. The person who checked me in recommended people reserve their campsites or if you are staying inside. There's water here.

Day 3 - option 2B Refugio Viejo

Wifi was working okay for me at pampa Linda.

I got my Argentina exit stamp in pampa Linda.

After crossing into Chile the Carabineros were nice, I didn't check my bag for food, I didn't smuggle anything in. There's water here, tables and camping. They wanted me to check in after camping at the

Camp 3

Refugio Viejo - cowboy camped past the Refugio Viejo. There were about 6 people up there. Agree with a previous comment to get closer to the cliff and watch the glacier. Snow melt for water.

Day 4

Checked in with the Carabineros

Big day walking through the forest in the heat wave. Thankful a lot of shade and water. I didn't see anyone until the end of the day

Camp 4

Lago Cayute [63.6/233]. Water from the lake, sheltered. Very busy on the weekend.

Day 5

Walked to cochamo, caught the bus to Puerto varas.

*''' 2025.28.12 / 1 days / Hiking / SOBO / Opt. 1 (Laguna Los Quetros) + RR to El Callao/ Kris and Stiina'''

(Continued from Section 20)

Day 5 - While we had the Movistar cell service in Las Gaviotas we wanted to at least make sure that Rudy is at his Refugio Dos Condores to help us with the boat the upcoming day.

When we tried to call him the call didn’t go through, we tried different phone nrs.
We didn’t guess it then but what Rudy told us later is that you should write him a WhatsApp message instead, because he has internet there but no cell service.
Don Rudy Yefi phone nr. +56 950 180 447 as mentioned earlier.

So, we googled boat services on Lago Todos Los Santos and we found this website with 3 different phone numbers for different ferries www.lago-todoslossantos.cl/informacion/

First we called the Elizabeth III, there was no answer, then we called the Catamarán (a fast express boat between Petrohué and Peulla) +56 942 623 484 and a man answered. We explained that we want to be picked-up from El Callao the next day to which he said yes no problem and that the boat will be there at 9:30 and that’s it, no further information was given. So oblivious to our faulty arrangements we continued on to section 21.

A lot of the following information we only learned the next day because we didn’t read the trail notes careful enough.

Even though we thought that we spoke with someone who operates the Catamarán boat, it later turned out we spoke to the captain of the Elizabeth III as he himself confirmed.

What we didn’t know at the time but learned later was that - in El Callao there isn’t actually any ferry port or a dock, just a sandy beach.
And the main cherry on top of the cake that we somehow missed was that to actually board the Elizabeth III you have to have your own independent boat arrangement for a boat that will actually take you to the ferry that just passes El Callao from a distance. This somehow very “obvious” information wasn’t even mentioned by the captain of the ferry. However I spoke to him about it once we were on the ferry that next time some extranjeros calling for a boat pick-up to please mention this little detail.

Long story short, we were simply lucky that Rudy himself and another settler from the valley had to go to the Puerto Varas the same morning that we had to go. Otherwise we would have waved to the ferry from the coast watching it go past without stopping, scratching our silly heads.
The 5min boat ride to the ferry cost 10k CLP pp, the 2h ferry with toilets and wifi to Petrohué cost 660 CLP pp, all makes sense.

So once we “”arranged”” a boat transfer from El Callao for 9:30 tomorrow we went on to join the Option 1 (Laguna Los Quetros).

On the way along the road 3 dogs started following us and those weren’t some street dogs they all had collars and they looked very groomed, at least when they started following us later they were completely dirty like dogs. No matter how we tried to stop them from following us they just continued all the way to Laguna Los Quetros which was a bit annoying. People that we saw along the way kept telling us that the dogs will return home, sure. We had this happen before in Armenia, hiking the TCT where we became known as foreigners that stole the dog.
Anyhow, when we go to the Quetros lake there was luckily an ariero who had a horse tour with some people whom he had brought to the lake for lunch. We asked for his help with the dogs and he tied them all to a tree until we left, to later make the dogs follow them back instead. Because when we tried to continue on from the lake the dogs kept following us again, instead of hanging out with the people who were actually giving them food. We didn’t give them anything except some swear words, however we did name them - Chikito, Negrito and Goldie.

We met Isabelle at Rudy’s termas, she works for Rudy and was there with 3 other foreigners preparing the hot tubs she was very nice and friendly. The termas were two bathtubs carved our of logs with a pipe of warm water filling them up. And it was all inside a shed, which is presumably locked when nobody is there. We just did small talk and kept walking.

Rudy is a lovley old gentleman, we explained to him that we had arranged a boat for tomorrow and that we will be heading to El Callao for the night to avoid the very early morning hike the next day to which he didn’t say anything, just nodded so we though all is good!
We also bought some pan amasado from him, a really delicious dense, homemade bread 400 CLP per piece a bargain!

The trail from Don Rudy’s place to El Callao was slightly undulating and took us about 1.5hr even though Rudy advised us it will take about 3h.

We camped not far from the harbor on a meadow we saw on the satellite that had a stream running by. When we were setting up our tent, we heard some people talking. Behind the stream and the bushes were a few houses and the people were at home so I went to ask if it’s ok that we camp there. We talked a bit and I explained about the GPT, the man was nice bus asked me not to disclose their location as they value their privacy.

Day 6 - Cows started blaring from around 5:00 in the morning in the neighboring meadows. The evening before the man said there is a bull that visits the meadow that we were on in the mornings. And sure enough the bull was there at 6:30, staring at us, what the heck are we doing in his field, so we had an earlier departure than anticipated.
While waiting for our ferry to “pick us up” on the beach in the El Callao we enjoyed some sunshine with some, Rudy’s pan amasado and a few protein bars which was all that we had left from food.
Unexpectedly Rudy arrived with two other men and that’s when we learned about how this whole thing works, luck definitely saved us from having an unexpected adventure that day.

We boarded Elizabeth III about a kilometer from the coast, which would have been a long swim otherwise. It was smooth sailing all the way to Petrohue with the most incredible views of Volcan Osorno, Volcan Puntiagudo and the Tronador on the other side of the lake.
There are toilets and wifi on board and we didn’t make any other stops which brought us to Petrohué in about 2hrs. When we got there the bus to Puerto Varas was already waiting - 3.5k CLP pp.

Next off to Section 22 NoBo, 21 (Tronador traverse) and to Bariloche to finish another GPT season!

For more stories, photos, videos on the trail and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on IG: @smallfootprint_bigadventures

* '''2025-12-07 to 2025-12-11/ 4.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO+EABO / 21-01 + RR + 21-04A (Packraft El Callao to Rio Blanco) + 21-04 + 21-02 + 21-02B (Refugio Viejo) / Antoine B'''

A section mostly in forest trail with nice highlights: Laguna Questros for camping, crossing Lago de Todos los Santos and sleeping on an isolated beach, ascending El Tronador, enjoying hot spring and isolated farms.

Attractivity: 4
Difficulty: 3 (long forest sections)

Day 1:
Coming from GPT20, I started at las Gaviotas around 18.30 and finished the day hiking up to Laguna Los Questros. Very pleasant path uphill. I met a horse rider coming from la Laguna, who asked for 10k for camping over there. I wasn't sure if he was the owner but paid 5k CLP (it's just a good flat ground with a pit, dry toilets maybe). La Laguna is a great spot to camp and swim in the lake, no one there but birds and cows.

Day 2:
Long day walking on forest trails with tabanos. 2 farms on the way but no one there. Arrived around 18 at Lago de Todos los Santos and packrafted SE for 2.5h until nightfall (barely no wind, clear sky, lucky conditions). The evening light were charming and the surrounding landscapes reminded of many places (Fuji for Osorno, Garda & Annecy lakes)....
Camped on a lovely isolated beach (-41.117963 ; -72.127518), close to the referenced waypoint. Splendid spot.

Day 3:
On the water around 10:30 for 2-3h, a bit of tail wind accelerating me. It wasn't possible to access the last bit in the river meadows (not enough water) and Rio Blanco has too much current, not worth the effort. So I landed in the muddy/woody shore, where a neighbour just left by boat (-41.15470, -72.09983). Short walk along the shore before joining the trail in the forest. Nice walk in the valley, then lots of forest trail, I went eastward towards Tronador and ended up by nightfall at the hot spring spot, by the river close to the farms (thanks for the tips shared here, really a memorable place). Camping ground is perfect.

Day 4:
Started at 12, walked to the 2nd farm and met 4 carabineros visiting the farmer. We hiked back to the puesto together (4h). We sympathized and they invited me for dinner. Lovely company, great memories. Camped at the puesto, free, water available and a little stream for washing. Good news: they just got equipped with solar panel so no more noisy diesel generator as of now.

Day 5:
Relaxing hike up to Refugio Viejo (option 02B), at fast pace (1h30 up). Loved the views (and not carrying any backpack). It's quite fresh and was super windy up there so worth carrying jacket + sun glasses (very reflective with the glaciers). The CC path beyond the refuge, to the edge of the cliff is indeed not to be missed. Ran down in 45mn, amazing feeling after 2 weeks with a 25kg backpack. After chatting again with the carabineros, it took me 3-4h of forest trail to end up in Pampa Linda (17:00). Gendarmería is after the bridge, last building leaving the place. Smooth entry but the bus left (17:00 I think). Hitchhike was not successful for 30mn and I met cool people staying at the camping Vuriloche (~30k ARS if I recall) so I joined them for the night and they drove me the next day to Bariloche.

*''' GPT21 5-8/12/25 / 4 days / Hiking / WEBO / OH03 / Nimrod + Shai + Shmuel'''

5/12 — Colonia Suiza → Laguna Negra

Took a bus to Colonia Suiza (using SUBE card but you can just use your credit as well).
The ascent to the lagoon was mostly easy and well marked with a steeper section toward the end.

Distance: 11 km
Ascent: 963 m
Descent: 163 m

6/12 — Laguna Negra → Campsite After the Pass (41.1760733S, 71.6480100W)

After breakfast at the hut, we packed and began the climb to the first pass, which offered an impressive reflection of Laguna Negra.
We then continued ascending toward Laguna CAB on a partially marked and steep trail. We did some bush bashing but connected to the trail after 10 or so minutes. The GPX is fairly accurate and it easy to miss the marks. The weather was hot, and there were many biting flies. ( bring some fly spray) We took our shoes off and crossed the lagoon from the other side (the gpx trail is from the opposite side but longer) along its edge and stopped for lunch.
Afterward, we climbed another pass with beautiful views. The beginning of the ascent was not clearly marked.
During the descent, Shmuel and Shai lost track of unintentionally followed a difficult scrambling route. The Route is marked with rock cairns but easy to miss.

Distance: 13 km
Ascent: 1,067 m
Descent: 1,176 m

7/12 — Campsite (41.1760733S, 71.6480100W) → Laguna Ilón

Well marked, steep accents and decents. (Need to use hands for sure). Mostly well marked, a bit confusing near Jujuy. It was an hoilday and a lot of people camped at the laguna. Campsite is 20000 pesos per person. I was told after I paid there is a wild camping spot pretty closeby.

Distance: 12.5 km
Ascent: 955 m
Descent: 1,058 m

8/12 — Laguna Ilón → Pampa Linda

Easy route down, and well marked. The road is closed till 16:00, rested by the river till then. Was super easy to hitchhike back to bariloche. Maybe because of the holiday. Where is a weak free wifi near the visiter center.

Distance: 8.5 km
Ascent: 112 m
Descent: 632 m

Annoyances : the horse fly bite ever through the shirt, bring some bug spray

Attractiveness 5/5
Difficulty 4/5

* '''GPT21 / 2025-12-01 and 02 / 2 days / Packrafting Sobo / Option 5A and Lago Cayetue side trip / Lago Todos los Santos from Petrohue to Lago Cayetue / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

This route is a suitable southbound season start for packrafters with heavier packrafting gear that wish to minimize hiking in favor of more packrafting.

Public transportation to Petrohue at the western terminus of Lago Todos los Santos is simple. Take a minibus from the Puerto Montt bus station to Puerto Varas (every 5 to 10 minutes) and tell the bus driver that you wish to take another minibus to Petrohue. The bus drive will drop you off in the center of Puerto Varas at a bus stop where the buses to Petrohue stop (every 30 minutes).

In Petrohue are two camp sites on the other side (southern) of the slow moving river just where Lago Todos los Santos ends and drains into Rio Petrohue. Packrafters best stay at one of these camp sites to start paddling with the first light on the next morning when conditions are typically calmer. Motor boats bring people to these camp sites (boat crossing 1000 CLP / camping 5000 CLP) so packrafters don’t need to inflate the boat for a 50 m river crossing.

Wind typically blows westbound on the lake main body. The lake arm Cayetue is generally less windy but the typical wind blows northbound (“viento sur”). On a typical sunny day wind starts between 10:00 and 12:00 and calms down after 18:00. Therefore starting very early is the best strategy to complete the lake crossing in one day.

There are quite some emergency exits along the water route if wind and waves force you out of the water. Note that most buildings along the shore are now vacation retreats of the rich and super-rich and not the homes of settlers. A good number of these luxury buildings are equipped alarm systems so be cautious when exploring these upscale buildings to avoid a visit by caretaker. If you are forced to camp somewhere along the shore then best choose a hidden spot that is not easily visible from water nor from the buildings.

We packrafted in 6 hours from Petrohue to Cayetue. The best lake exit is just west of Rio Conchas (41° 13′ 40.5″ S / 72° 16′ 0.8″ W) and not as indicated in the track files at the small port. This extends the water route by 1.5 km and reduces hiking by the same distance.

The trail from the lake exit to Lago Cayetue is well maintained.

Lago Cayetue and Rio Conchas is a nice side trip. You can packraft the Rio Conchas from the lake drain 1 km downstream (very little flow) and from lake feed 2.5 km upstream.

Hikers that need a northbound boat transfer from Cayetue may call Eduardo (+56 9 7515 2075). He is a caretaker of the vacation retreat where Rio Conchas flows into Lago Todos los Santos.

* '''2025-11-25 to 2025-11-27 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / RR / Daniel.s'''

Started at Puerto Poncho, from Entre Lagos hitchhiking is the only way. Plan a half day to get anywhere on this side of Lago Rupanco.

Day 1: Paddling is straight forward, tailwind in the afternoon usually. The hike from las Gaviotas is easy to find and maintained, used by cattle at L. Los Quetros, where I camped (no one there). In summer tabanos and mud (after rain) will be your dominant enemies.

Day 2: hiked all the way to Lago Todos los Santos, trail easily followabel. At arrival (~15:00) wind was moderate at shore, strong in the middle of the lake, made a few kilometers to a little sheltered beach (S 41° 03.993', W 072° 11.689') where I spent the night.

Day 3:
Early start (4:30am) to use the calm hours. Arrived at southern end ( S 41° 13.706', W 072° 16.019') around 11am, then hiked to L. Cayutué and up to the parking for the day-hikers (S 41° 18.052', W 072° 16.309') where I got a lift all the way to Cochamó quickly (to avoid hiking down 10 kms of dusty gravel road).

'''2025-01-21 to 2025-01-24 / 4 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP / Thijmen Scholten'''

- Road from Entre Lagos to Puerto poncho does not have much traffic. Hitchike may take long.

- Because of that I started at lago Rupanco quite late (12.00). Waves were big but ok with decked packraft.

- Laguna's los quetros and the thermal baths are perfect camp spots. As for 22th of January there is no one , so it's free.

- Water is easily to find on the route every hour or so l. So no need to carry

- The trail goes trough beautiful forest. Can be very muddy if it recently rained alot.

- You can beautiful camp at the Northern shore of Laguna de los Santos. To cross the lake next day early morning.

- I started at 7 and at 8 there were already huge waves. In the afternoon it calmed down. Crossing took a whole day.

- The entry of Rio conchas is not at the first entry but more downstream.

- camping next to Rio Conchas has awesome fishing

- The haucho there said in the winter Rio conchas flows to Lago dos Santos and in the summer it flows to the Laguna.

- Just before the lake Rio Conchas turns into a small stream so you need to carry the packraft (100m).

==Season 2024/25==

10-MAR-2025 to 17-MAR-2025 / 8 Days / hiking/ EastBO / RR / Ben, Stephanie

Route from Ralun, CH to Pampa Linda, AR: amazing route through deep forest conditions and a few settlers

This route is well-described by searching Ruta de las Jesuitas. A few important notes, however.

Do not do if there has been a lot of rain because muddy trail and trail mini-trail-canyons will be impossible to travel. Also, there were 3 river crossings that went over Stephanie's knees during a very dry period.

When you get to La Junta, ask a settler how to find the Termas. They are great but it is easier to cross the river at the suspension bridge with the Termas right on the east side, rather than the horse crossing on the RR with the Termas 500m south up the river.

Make sure to take an extra day to day hike to the Refugio Viejo from the Carabineros station -- so great!

You can't resupply in Pampa Linda even though there is a restaurant.

You can use Chilean pesos on the tourist bus into Bariloche. It leaves around 4 pm -- ask the Gendarmeria where to find it when you first get to Pampa Linda.

Try to figure out lodging in Bariloche using the WiFi in Pampa Linda. We didn't and arrived at 8 pm and had to do some searching around

*''' 2025-02-24 to 2025-03-03 / 9 days / Hiking+ferry / SOBO / var 21-01 + RR + ferry + 21-02 from Puerto Callao + 21-02 A (Refugio Otto Mailing) + 21-02 B (Refugio Viejo) + RR / Dorota'''

Day 1: I started at Puerto Las Gaviotas. I did not make it to 19 stages because I would like to cross the border as quickly as possible. I found Uber tel.+56 9 8716 2865 who took me for 50,000 clp to Las Gaviotas. I can recommend him. The road was not easy and the price is fair because from Entre Lagos it was 70 km. Then I took OH 1. Very nice path in the forest but a little moody after rain. Near Termas de Rudy trail passes for private terrain. Diana, who is the owner, invited me for tea. She also offers camp for 5,000 clp and has Termas. There also lives his son, Alejandro. There I have met two Chilean girls. They were frightened after passing bridges in variant RR. From the house of Diana, take variant AA, not RR. On RR at point .... there is a bridge. But I decided to go through the river. After the rain, the current was strong and the level of water was till my hips. I passed the night at Refugio Los Condores. Laura, mujer de Rudy, was very polite. She took me to his house, in the cabana there were some people. For hospedaje, cena, desayuno I paid 40,000 clp. The cena was very big and the desayuno also.
You can also buy eggs, bread, honey , beer. When I was in Entre Lagos I wrote Rudy to order a boat, refugio and food. Also he ordered for me a place at the ferry Elizabeth III for the next day. I paid for the boat to the ferry 15,000 clp.

Day 2: From Refugio Dos Condores to Puerto Callao, it took me 1.5 hours, but I recommend 2 hours. Two bridges were very solid. At Puerto Callo, I was waiting for Augustino, the son of Rudy. The ferry Elizabeth III arrived at 4:30 p.m. with a half-hour delay. During the journey, we took and left passengers at different ports. Finally, I reached Puerto Puella at 8 p.m. I slept at Hotel Puella for 40,000 clp with breakfast. But you can try Hotel Natura. The next day, one girl said to me that she had paid 30,000 clp. I was very lucky that transporting between ports had worked well for a normal price, together 20,000 clp.

Day 3: In the morning, I crossed the border of Chile without a problem. I still had three days for my stay. The road from Puella is a little boring but easy. I joined a group who went to "Riggy". From there, I had very spectacular views of Tronador. Afterward, I came back and spent the night near a refugio in a tent. The refugio is private. One person said to me that it belonged to carabineros, and another that it belonged to Hotel Natura.

Day 4: In the morning, I reached Aduana, Argentina. But the officials went at 12:30 on a boat from Bariloche. They did not like me to give a stamp of entrada to Argentina. But finally, the women gave me a paper to fill out and gave me a stamp. The men were impolite. Then I took a very nice trail "Paso por las Nubes". You had to pass some bridges. The trail went through the forest and is very easy. The night I spent in Refugio Alfonso Roca. A lot of people were there, but the views of the glacier were spectacular. The price for a night was 60,000 clp. You need a first reservation for WhatsApp. I had not, but it was a place for me. Payment only in cash.

Day 5: The trail went down through the forest. It was very easy. All fallen trees were cut down and easy to cross, and there were bridges saved. I decided to take variant 21-02A to refugio Otto Mailing, also paying 60,000 pesos argentinos for the night. They had also places for tents for 14,000 pesos argentinos. You can pay by card but with an additional 10%. The views of the glacier were incredible. The trail from Pampa Linda is very popular and very well signed.
Unfortunately, it was raining and there were a lot of clouds, but still I could see the glacier. This refugio has a very nice atmosphere. Because of bad weather, there were not a lot of people.

Day 6: It was a very rainy day. I started very early from Pampa Linda. At the border control, the man was very polite. He gave me two stamps: entrance and exit. And filled out a paper in three copies. I did not make any requests in Pampa. The Paso Viriloche trail was well signed, and the next day was the maratón to Ralun. I would like to take variant 21-B, but the carabinero stopped me because of bad weather. He was very polite. Because of bad weather, he invited me and two other people to something like a house and also took our clothes and shoes for drying. We slept on the floor and made a fire inside.

Day 7: The weather was excellent so I took 21B to refugio viejo. This place is amazing with views on Tronador. Finally I was walking together with three carabinieros, they had patrol. They took care of me. We went a little up after refugio to see glaciers. Tronador is amazing. After descending I took my things and went to refugio Huenchupen at km 86.9 of 21-02. I slept on the floor.

Day 8: Next day very rainy, so I was walking very fast through forest and mundo terrain. Night at puesto at km 26.4 of variant 21-04 close to RR. There were not poblador. We put tents together with two chilenos and two argentinos in house for animals. Water we find close from small stream.

Day 9: Crazy day. Next day in the predicción heavy rain, so I decided to reach Ralun, 37 km to go. All rivers all the way had increased water level because of rain. But only Rio Conchas was demanding: water above knee level and strong current. Finally I reached Ralun. I slept at hospedaje for 30 k clp, there is also cabana there for 40 k clp. The first house at the left. The owner is Margot, phone:+56 9 8716 2865. In shop el cruce very good asortiment. Next day I went to Puerto Montt to take my deposit with food. Bus at 6.50 and last at 8.00. Last from Puerto Montt at 4 p.m, at terminal you can buy ticket at shop number 37.

*'''2025-01-03 to 2025-03-05/ 4,5 days / Hiking/ WEBO + SOBO / OH03D (a small prt), OH02, RR / Peggy

After choosing to come to Bariloche by bus to renew my visa (to avoid the rain and give my body time to recover from a bad cold), I initially planned to take the option suggested by Tomáš, departing directly from Bariloche and joining stage 21 at option 3 by passing through the Frey and Jacob refuges (03D), despite the bad weather ahead. But things didn’t go as planned.

The first part of this option starts from Bariloche, either with the cable car or not. Since I had booked an Airbnb on the way up, I left directly from the house. While descending towards 03D, about 1 km or less from the end (41.086296S, 071.219331W), I encountered a man with his horse who forbade me from continuing, saying it was private property and that there was a sign indicating this at the Arelauquen refuge (closed), which I hadn't seen (maybe because I passed behind it?). So, continuing was impossible—frustrating… I climbed back up a few dozen meters and then decided to cut through off-trail (BB) to reach the path below, which made a switchback. I crossed off-trail for about 100-200 meters and found the wider path again, this time with large houses under construction. Since it was Saturday, I only came across two workers who said nothing to me.

At the bottom, near the road, I was faced with a large double gate topped with barbed wire. No way to pass through there, but after searching the sides, I found a possible passage, though there was barbed wire (be careful with your gear!). However, I first tried to go through a spot that seemed suitable and looked like it had been used before, but in doing so, I knocked down a wasp nest and got stung several times! I quickly moved away after the stings, faced with a hundred angry wasps whose home had just suffered an earthquake caused by a clumsy human!
So if you want to do this new option (OH03D) it is better to start directly in Villa las Coihues.

I eventually found a way out. The stings (only two in the end) were painful (until the evening) and put me in a strange state. Soon after, I met a friendly Argentinian, and we traveled together to Pampa Linda. Apparently, my path was not meant to follow the option suggested by Tomáš. In any case, the rain and wind that followed in the next days would have made this route difficult due to its exposed sections, according to Tomáš's description. Nevertheless, I hope to return to do it—maybe. Now that I have a friend in Bariloche! The GPT is just incredible in terms of changes, encounters, and adaptability!

Entrance fee: 20k for entering the park when coming from Bariloche via the road to Pampa Linda. Remember to stop by the Carabineros for the exit stamp from Argentina if coming this way.

The camp at km 71.8 is not possible now—too much vegetation—but I was able to pitch my tent a bit earlier, just after crossing the river where the sign is. There is space for one tent.

Despite my desire to go to the old refuge and enjoy Tronador, which must be magnificent, I couldn't go up the day I arrived due to the rain and wind—the Carabineros were even sending everyone back down. I camped near the Carabineros, hoping to go up the next day, but the weather didn't improve. The Carabineros kindly lent me a "five-star" tent, where I spent the afternoon and night like a princess! (My X-Mid Pro would have been fine, but it couldn't compare to this castle!). Indeed, as Volker (I think) mentioned, they run a generator, so be prepared for noise. But in my castle, I had nothing to complain about!

There is a free refuge at km 86.9 (Refugio Lomas de Huechupan) that offers shelter.

At the Vuriloche hot springs, there is a bivouac spot (GPS coordinates given by Clara, thanks, Clara: -41.24628, -72.04855) with a place for a fire. As Clara noted, there is no "Vuriloche refuge"—it’s a house belonging to a settler.

From the bivouac site, the first path on the right goes down to the river to collect water and leads to two hot water basins. The second path on the left leads to the main hot springs with two hotter basins, one of which is very hot. This is where you need to cross via the suspension bridge—very fun! Jose, aka Coche, who lives on the other side, told me not to take the other path as the bridge there has collapsed. For those afraid of crossing the suspension bridge, it is possible, according to Coche, to cross via the ford at km 101.3. At the suspension bridge, there is a refuge for rent called "La Junta"—ask the person living near the "Refuge de Vuriloche" point on the Locus map.

Between the hot springs and Bandurrias (3–3.5 hours of walking):
I couldn't find a suitable camping spot due to the rain, mud, and soggy ground. However, just before Bandurrias, there are plenty of excellent spots.

On the OH02 route, there are many river crossings. Often, there are log bridges, but sometimes not. Due to several days of rain, the water level was higher, but everything remained completely doable.

Because of the rain, I spent an afternoon and a night on the porch of the puesto at km 126, where no one was around. Gratitude 🙏

The forest is stunning and magical. Many muddy passages, like tunnels of earth—an incredible journey. As Tomáš and Natalie (I think) mentioned somewhere, it sometimes feels like an Indiana Jones-style adventure!

*'''17Jan2024 - 24jan2024 / hiking WEBO + SOBO / OH3 + OH2+2B + RR / ~7 days / Clara'''

There is a detailed report of Natalie and Tomáš from January 2024 so I'll just add the differences/changed things.

I took the formal OH3 so I began in Colonia Suiza.

To get there from Bariloche by bus, need to bye a SUBE card (or ask someone to pay for you with it in the bus and give cash directly). These cards can only be found at the Centro Civico Bariloche in the center. Then you have to go in one of the many kiosko with SUBE in the city to pay and charge it. It was 1.5k for the card and needed to charge 4k to go untill Colonia Suiza. The bus 10 goes there directly from the city center but not much per day. Other solution is to take bus 20 and then an other one. Easy to find out in ggmaps or app moovit.

Untill laguna negra, it's an easy trail, overrun at this season.
Camp at 16.1, close to nice river.

Pass at 20.1 is easy and the view is awesome.

Going up to laguna CAB : there are some falen trees, trail a bit harder to follow. At this point -41,14666, -71,61216 intersection with an other more evident trail but it's not the good one, which is hide behind a log.

First beach of laguna CAB is very nice, stopped there to eat and swim, water at perfect temperature in the afternoon and no annoying insects.

Then steep ascent to the pass at 28.0. Up there, I found navigation a bit confusing. Sometimes lots of cairns in several direction. No trail as it's only big scrambling rocks. Begining of the descent is hard and take time.

Camp at the 2nd camp spot close to Mallin Mate Dulce. This one was nicer than the first. Good river flowing close and sort of a waterfall with a bassin. But so much mosquitoes that I ate and mostly stayed in my tent.
This day was only 15km but feels way more. Lots of elevation gain and loss, slow evolution (and also I had a very heavy backpack).

Next pass at 33.5, navigation easier with some red/blue marks, steep ascent and descent that often demand using of hands (especially begining of the descent !!). I saw my first condor up there, incredible moment.

After laguna Creton, everything gets easier (and faster) : navigation, terrain and steepness !

Note : camp spot just under laguna Creton (with waterfall and bassin) and the one close to Laguna Jujuy (probably a bit exposed if big wind but there are little stonewalls to pitch the tent) seems really nice to spent the night !

The view is awesome all along the ridge till pass 38.4.

Easy descent to laguna Ilon. Lots of people camp here coming from pampa linda (12k/pp for camping). Still nice spot to rest a bit, perfect to swim, shade, dry toilets and drinking water.

Easy descent to pampa linda with really nice views on the tronador !

Pampa linda : restaurants (expensive!), campings (saw one at 8k without shower). Free wifi that worked really well in all town (at least in the morning when not much people there), I could even had a WhatsApp videocall with perfect quality.

Gendarmería : easy and fast. No date in the paper so I guess it's not compulsory to get to the carabineros the exact same day.

Carabineros : very chill, they don't check my bag at all, no form to fill, so I didn't finished all my prohibited food as previoused and I passed the border with cheese, nuts, dry fruits,... Possible to let them things to go up to refugio viejo.

Refugio viejo tronador : long but mostly easy going up to the refugio, awesome landscapes. I splept there in a high windy night, the refuge is very basic but a good schelter.

Puesto at 86.9 is not a puesto but a refuge. There is a table outside with an awesome view on the tronador. No bed inside but could probably be a good shelter to pitch the tent in bad weather. Water in the river flowing just few meters down (not in OSM).

Camp at 88.9 : the spot with the river is really nice to have a swim with large bassins. Only fits 1 tent I think.

In Gaia there are 2 others refugio on the map. Refugio Seba --> nothing. Refugio Vuriloche --> seems more like the house of a settler. The termas are at wrong place on Gaia map.

I did a short day to enjoy the termas and shelter from rain, multiple nice and clean bassins.
-41,24628, -72,04855 : flat spot to camp, tables, fire.
-41,24701, -72,04806 : first trail go down here to the river. 1 bassin just down and one closer to the river.
-41,24813, -72,04712 : 2nd trail go to the bridge (the one in OSM). Just before there are 2 other nice bassins, hoter !!
I was there with a group of 16 argentinians who make the traverse every year, they know the settler, told me the use of hot springs is free !
I saw him the next morning. He sells bread and killed a lamb for the group (but maybe need to be asked in advance for that?).

Then trail sometimes muddy/sleepery but mostly in good conditions even after a rainy night !
Fords of Rio Conchas up to knee.

Camp just after ford 28.6.

In total, it was a very nice section with awesome landscapes, especially OH3 and the refugio viejo!! Took me about 7 days with some short days.

*'''2025-JAN-17 to 2025-JAN- / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR+OH (var. 01) / Ivan, Jakub, Daniel'''

We combined stages 20 and 21, starting with food supplies for both stages (4 days). This stage with enough water, mostly leads through dense Valdivian forest. The highlight for us was the view of the Puntiagudo and Osorno volcanoes from Lago Todos los Santos, where you need to arrange transportation to the opposite shore.

Following variant 01, the trail ascends to Laguna Los Quetros through dense forest along a cow path carved into the terrain. At Laguna Los Quetros, there are many beautiful camping spots, benches, fire pits, and a dry toilet. We met the owners of this campsite at the beginning of the stage, and they told us that the campsite usually has a fee, but they didn’t feel like going up that day, so we could stay for free.
The ford [19.1/650] was crossed dry-footed. The bridges along the trail were quite fragile or improvised, for example, the bridge [20.3/419] is suitable only for the brave due to its condition. At the point Food, Lodging, Ferry [21.1+0.2/415], no one was there, so we continued to Settler, Lodging, Ferry [23.2/432], where you can buy breakfast, lunch, dinner, as well as bread, eggs, honey, soda, and beer. We also learned that the boat to the other side of Lake Todos los Santos was expected to depart the following day (Sunday) around noon. Therefore, we reached the lake and decided to wait until the next day. However, the owner of one of the boats appeared and offered to take us to the Cayutue port for 120,000 CLP. We eventually negotiated the price down to 100,000 CLP. He dropped us off outside the track files at coordinates (-41.22695, -72.26297), where there is a sheltered terrace where you can stay overnight. In addition to tables, benches, and a grill, there is also a water tap. From there, we set out on a new route, mostly across pastures, visible on navigation tools. The settler at coordinates (-41.25020, -72.25722) allowed us to pass through his property, though he didn’t seem too pleased about it. We rejoined the RR trail at the transition from MR to TL approximately at km [57.2]. From Lago Cayutue, we encountered many people who were out on a weekend walk. The rest of the way to Cochamó was peaceful.

* ''' 2025-JAN-17 > 18 / 1 jours (30km) / Randonnée / SOBO / RR > 21-A > RR > END km 30 / Pierre-Marie '''

Etape : GPT20+GPT21+GPT22
| Meteo : nuageux
| Eau : rare
| Neige : oui
| Intérêt : 4/5
| Difficulté : 3/5
| Danger : manque d'eau

Si la neige ne fond pas, il n'y a pas d'eau entre le km 4,5 et le km 19,0. Je n'ai pas pu faire ma lessive. Le RR va dans la riviere au km 20,3 alors j'ai pris le 21-A qui est le chemin officiel. Le (vendredi) soir au refuge Dos Condores, on me dit que le ferry ne passe que certains jours. Je dois donc attendre le dimanche 12h00... Je n'ai pas compris où allait le ferry car le monsieur parlait très mal et je comprend mal l'espagnol. Bref je pense que c'est très difficile de trouver un bateau El Callao > Cayutué. Le lendemain je suis descendu au port par la derniere section plutôt boueuse, espérant un miracle. Et le miracle était là... un groupe de 15 jeune randonneur (14-18ans) de Puerto Varas avec un guide qui attendent leur bateau... Je suis rentré avec eux à Petrohue gratuitement. J'avoue qu'après la section 18 et 20, et ce plan foireux de ferry, ma motivation avait totalement disparu. Mais je repars de plus belle vers le GPT22. Bus de 12h00 entre Petrohue et la route 225, tentative infructueuse d'auto-stop vers Cochamo mais bus à 12h45. Je n'ai pas pu faire la seconde partie du GPT21 malheureusement. Mais je suis content d'être sorti de ce cul de sac.

* '''2025-01-14 / 6 hours / Packrafting / SOBO / Option 8 / Tomáš'''
While Natalie was resting in Puerto Varras, I took the same bus like last year at 8:38 from next to our hostel (-41.32710, -72.96598) and got dropped at the bridge where Option 8 starts an hour later (2500 CLP). Unlike last year, the bus was half-empty. The approach is MR, no CC. Rio Huenuhuenu does not have that much water - it is navigable, but you will hit the ground from time to time probably. Also, there are some sticks, that are due to narrowness of the river not so always to avoid (just walk your biat here and there). It took me 40 minutes to get to Rio Petrahue, which is deep and wide and while it has momentum, so you go fast, is not technical at all. There are logs and sticks but they are extremely easy to avoid. It was raining and I stopped for about two hours at Hot Spring {21-08} [24.2/29] (Termas de Ralun). They are free and popular (with both Chilians and foreigners) - there have always been other people. So probably not good for camping or washing, but great warm up. They can fit 10+ people. Tide reaches there and it somewhat elevated my boat even though I put it on the beach previously. Luckily it did not flow away. Due to high tide, Rapid {21-08} [25.1/30] was nonexistent. Camp {21} [79.3/7] is paid, I think, this is private land. Without stopping at the hot spring, Rio Petrohue would have taken me 3 hours to go down. I managed to lose my inReach in my transparent dry bag there, but recovered it later (see next entry). Hitched first car to Puerto Varras. All in all maybe due to rain and clouds, I did not find it very scenic, but listening to a podcast and eating strawberries while just floating down the river was a treat.

* '''2025-01-6/ 1 / Packrafting/ SOBO/ RR&OP 8/ Davide'''

Together with Volker I took Elisabeth III for Petrahue at Lagos todos Los Santos. While he proceeded for the climb of Vulcan Osorno I continued my packrafting trips starting a bit after Petrohue (Los Pollos). The official track of the GPT (21) start back at the intersection between Rio Hueñu Hueñu and Rio Petrohue, and for good reasons. The rapids starting at Los Pollos are locally famous for guided trips and rated at III+, so I don't suggest them for unaware packrafter. DO NOT try if inexperienced.

On the other hand the rest of the river is a glorious enjoyment up to its end at estero Reloncavi.

Be mindfull at the delta of Rio Hueñu Hueñu to Rio Petrohue, there are many trees in the river, and the left-most branch of the delta is completely blocked by a fallen tree transversal to the flow. Care must be given also for the remaining trait of the river.

This route overall represents a possible variation to existing tracks to not have to go to Puerto Varas if passing to Petrohue. While it is a bit more dangerous, it can substitute the hike of the RR to a day on paddling in the river downstream.

* '''2025-01-10 to 2025-01-12/ 2days / Packrafting/ SOBO/ RR&RP (ridge) / Natalie & Tomáš'''

Note: I wrote this when out of service without reading the last three new entries, so many things could be repeated, apologies.

Day 01: El Poncho to Cenizo basin; ~14km
After a short paddle from our, "alternative hot spring camp" (see gpt20), we arrived at El Poncho port. Unfortunately like others have said, there is no infrastructure there, the GPT has it misplaced. There is just one vacation home and SWARMS of tabaños. This was disappointing because I (Natalie) wasn't careful during the last resupply stop and did not buy enough food. Tomáš set up the tent to organize our things and I wasted an hour swinging a paddle into thin air trying to kill as many tabaños as I could. I will be having a good laugh for a while when I think back to what the Chileans must have thought when they saw me walking along the road, wearing a neon colored drysuit, and swinging a paddle up a down like a lunatic. I was very close to the skipping point as my body was exhausted from stomach issues that started at the beginning of gpt19, but eventually I came to terms. Plus, Tomáš had plenty of extra food as a back up so we set off around 12:30.
The trail is an old CONAF trail and there is an covered seating area/shelter near the start (no water). The trail was in surprisingly good shape and well traveled until the turn off for the gpt trail around -40.89986, -72.27375. We recommend taking the left fork (on OSM), it looked more traveled than the right and it went well (Tomáš of course cleared some bamboo to make it more obvious, hope it helps). There is also a stick blocking the GPT route at the top when they connect again. The OSM route first takes you to two settler houses, except if you hit the second s
house, you have gone too far, the trail veers upwards in the grass just before the second. After that it is pretty easy to stay on route, there are just a couple of alternative paths that intersect at times. The last one km of the OSM route is a bit overgrown, but it is just annoying, not slowing you down. There is no water until past the "Camping Alerces". If you plan to camp there, you can walk westward ~300m to a good flowing creek that should hopefully provide water year round..
After the camping, it's a walk up a semi dry creek bed until a waterfall blocks further advancement. The trail leaves the creek bed on your left about 100 m before this waterfall, Tomáš magnified the cairns there so hopefully you can see it. Then it's a simple but steep at times walk to the ridge, absolutely amazing views of Puntiagudo (Osorno's evil stepsister) and the the surrounding area. I give the ridge walk a 10/10 for views. We slept (the night was thankfully windless) in the basin underneath Volcan Cenizo. If there is snow and sun you may find water in the afternoon/evening, but no water in the morning/early afternoon so the last water would have been the waterfall.

Day 02: Volcan basin to Lago Todos Los Santos; 20 km
The next day was very straightforward. We hiked up Cenizo , aiming more to towards the north ridge for easier climbing. The peak to it's east looks like a possible fun scramble (from the west!) if you find a good way (without bag of course). There was no snow melt on the way down and like Roman has mentioned the turn off into the forest can be easily missed; -40.95687, -72.18367. The path down was in surprisingly good shape, lots of orange cut marks as well. The tabaños were in FULL force in the valley. They were the worst around the hotspring 19.2. The hotsprings are in a locked shed and nobody is living in that spot, they live a little further down valley on the trail (Sergio?). The worst of the tabaños were there but they continued to be terrible anytime we were not in the shade of the forest. We had lunch at the main hub of the valley; Refugio Dos Condors (aka Laura and her son Augustin, Rudy being the head of the family?). They are formally set up to take guests, so it is unlikely they will ever "not" be there. They have a couple menu's and prices for alternative requests. We had lunch for 16mil each. It was well worth it for my sake because I had been under fueled for a while. I also bought eggs (300pp), bread (400pp) and half a kilo of honey (3mil). Tomáš was overjoyed to be able to eat as mucj cherries from their trees as he could and also some raspberries. They are notnripe yet, should stay available maybe till end of month? We then made good time and got to the beach "ferry" early enough to rest before an early morning paddle the next day. P.s. we almost accidentally went to the beach of the settler to the east of the ferry, seemed like a prettier spot. Also, if you camp at the ferry, there is a large light near the boats/trail entrance, so I suggest camping on the far right (loling onto the beach from the lake). There was a trickle of water that seemed questionable, so our last source of water was the bridge 27.1.

Day three: Lago Todos Los Santos (TLS) to Petrohue - 22 km
We chose to go to Petrohue as we have walked to Ralun last year via Argentina. Tomáš had the idea of crossing the lake and then following the south shore of TLS as it was less distance. I hesitated as I didn't trust the lake, so the safest option sounded like the north shore, but we had a good weather window so we went with Tomáš's suggestion, making one quick stop on the island (a nice stop if it wasn't for the tabaños. Sadly we had almost no tabanos before the stop but after that they followed us to the end - must have killed over a hundred). In the morning we set off at ~6:15am and glad we didn't set of any later. One reason being the attack of the horseflies while paddling but mainly because when we got 1km close to the end we got hit by some strong headwind and waves. Advancement was slow but we made it (altogether the section took us 48 hours). A tourist boat came to us looking panicked but we assured them we would make it. Goes to show that it is true, conditions can change VERY fast and I am personally glad we were not any further from shore. Petrohue is an awful touristy place. Bus to Puerto Varras leaves every half an hour and there were swarms of cars with tourists. There are several telecommunications towers, but no working Entel internet (Edge!).

* '''25-01-08 - 25-01-11/ 3,5 days / NOBO-EABO / RR-OH2 (Tronador) Volker'''

Very pittoresque route (I took it inspired by Tomas & Natalie, who did it WEBO in january 2024)
Day 0: After climbing Volcan Osorno in the morning, I hitchhiked to Ensenada (resupply) and then to Cochamo but got out of the car 12km before Cochamo in Ralun at the start of the RR MR going to Cayetue („21, Bus, 71,5). Took a cabana directly opposite (30k). The indicated shop has basic food.
Day 1: A van driving locals to physiotherapy gave me a ride, so the MR walking to the pass was shortened by a half. At the pass yet another view on Volcan Puntiagudo, now from the south. Very easy down to Lago Cayutue (lots of tabanos there, also along rivers and on meadows, luckily the trail is mostly in the forest). Very easy along Rio Conchas (easy fords). 1km before the settler at 117.3 it looked like it will start to rain soon. So I raised my tent on a small meadow, indeed 10 min later and then during the evening some rain, but very few.

Day 2: Blue sky, easy walking, very few tabanos, even outside the forest, many settlers on horses. At Gpt 21-02end a small wooden sign, asking you to stay on the right (orographically: left) side of Rio Blanco (id est: not to take variant c). I did not go down to the ford, but on the following kms Rio Blanco seemed quite difficult to cross, the ford at 101.3, however, easy. So the sign makes sense. Shortly before the ford a non indicated settler, very lovely place. The settler at 98.5 offered me cherries from his tree and we talked a while. These friendly people provide for the special flair of this OH (on RR it’s just Rudy). From now on very scenic views on Volcan Tronador. Two bridges over Rio Aguas Turbias, which has deserved this name. Camp at the indicated spot at 88.3 (close to the destroyed bridge, fits one tent).
Day 3: Steep but easy up to the border. Several camp spots close to the puesto at 86.9 (which obviously serves as a refuge). At the border I told the very nice young carabinero that I want to go to Refugio Viejo (coming from the Chilean side technically you can go there without showing up at the carabineros, but I wanted to get some information about the way). Whereas Conaf rather doesn’t allow you to do this or that, because if something happens to you, they have to leave their chair, the carabinero explained me my options and told me: „If something happens to you, we will come and help you.“ I decided, that going to Argentina and trying to rent equipment for the Tronador (for Cumbre Argentino; cumbre internacional is the highest, but technical, so is cumbre Chileno) in Bariloche is way too complicated, so I asked the carabinero to keep my big backpack and went with a small one (you can also sleep in the refugio or camp there, but carrying your gear there will be quite physical). It took me three hours to the refugio. (I was alone there on a friday afternoon; the next day I met groups of all in all 12 hikers, who planned to go there and stay for the night). Breathtaking views on the glacier (especially if you continue after the refugio CC, trail on OSM) and the summits of V. Tronador. V. Osorno is showing up in the west and in the east you see the peaks of Cerro Catedral. I was back at the carabineros at 5.30 p.m. and decided to camp there: free, water, dry toilet - wrong decision: At 8.30 p.m. they turned on a generator in order to watch TV… After 5 minutes I decided to leave, luckily I found a dry spot some hundred meters away on the edge of the meadow, which is indicated as swamp
Day 4: Easy walk (12km) to Pampa Linda, which is a touristic hotspot. I decided to finish the hike here. The alpine route Tomáš took is very seducing, but it‘s probably better to do it at the beginning (going WEBO) and not after 3,5 days and 80km. Hitchhiked to Bariloche (2nd car, 2 hours; there is also a bus in the late afternoon).

Details on the border crossing; Returning from Refugio Viejo I got my passport back with an exit stamp and a paper in three copies (one for the AR gendarmeria, two for me to present when coming back to Chile.) As I had told the carabinero, that I will return to Chile soon, I had to define a maximum period in AR (you can come back earlier, but not later (strange rule). The argentinian border control is not, as indicated on the track files, at the border 1,5 km after the Chilean carabineros. It is in Pampa Linda (correctly indicated). The guy of the gendarmeria( very nice, too) offered me a glass of water and confirmed my entry without any control.

*'''25-01-05- 25-01-06/ 2 days / SOBO / RR varA / Clara & Volker'''

Very scenic but quite demanding

Day 0: We hitchhiked from Entre Lagos to Puerto Rico. We were lucky, it took us just three cars and a we waited in total less than 15 minutes. We got out of the 3rd car 1 km after the start of the RR at a small beach of Lago Rupanco, but the Tabano situation forced us to leave the beach at once. Haunted by dozens of horse-flies we went up to the MR road at this point -40,89289, -72,27335. At the last house (big wooden house after last gate on the MR), we found Robin that was really nice and help full, speaks english. She offers very nice rooms in a calm and beautiful house away of the tabaños, has a big kitchen were you can cook. Paradise to rest a night.

In the evening we wrote a message to Rudy, made a reservation for the refugio Los Condores and the hotsprings on the way for the day after.
The number to make reservation : +56950180447.
Camping + hot tubes 12k
Refuge : camping 6k, hospedaje 12k. Desayuno 10k, almuerzo o cena 16k. Everything is homemaid by his wife. She also cell bread, eggs, bebidas.

Day 1: We started at 8.30 on the RR, first hours in the forest (no water! You hear a small river, but the access seemed very difficult), then CC on the volcanic plateau.

On the trail up, we pass throught settlers land, they were nice but told us that they charge people of 5k each when they go by this trail that is on their land.

Ascent to the pass on very steep volcanic gravel. 1300 m of altitude only to this point. Great view on the very close Volcan Puntiagudo. From now on much snow, but no running water. The ascent on Cerro Cenizo is very, very steep, we went partly on snow, partly on volcanic gravel. When you arrive at the summit (1640m) you have climbed all in all around 2000m of altitude. We arrived at 3 p.m. and had still a descent of 1200 m of altitude before us. Very steep down, when the CC ends less steep on the trail. First running water only close to the junction with OH1.

Rudy had opened the hut with 2 wooden bassins at 19.2 (one too hot to enter, the other one perfect, but it‘s not the same as a natural bassin with a hot spring). We arrived at the refugio los condores 23.2 at 7 p.m. and got a great dinner (and two rooms in the lovely hut). This was a really long and very physical day.

Day 2: Clara went back to Lago Rupanco, Volker continued to Lago Todos Santos.

Clara :
took OH 1 to get to Las Gaviotas. Very easy trail compared to RR. Should be muddy in rain weather. There are more parallel trails, some are in OSM, frequently used.
Laguna Los quetros was full of tabaños so I went directly down.

No boat at Las gaviotas to go to puerto buey.
Easy to hitchhike if you walk a bit the beginning of the road.

Volker: Rudy‘s price for the boat transfer over the Lago Todos Santos is now at 150k, which is a no-go. But the Elizabeth III boat from Peulla to Petrohue passes by on the lake on mo/wed/friday at around 9 a.m. It does not stop at the beach! Rudy called his cousin down at the lake and arranged an apppintment at 8.30 on the beach. So I started at 6 a.m. at Rudy’s, arrived after two hours of easy walking (mud at the beginning; can be done in 1,5hrs) at the beach and 30 minutes later Esteban arrived with his small boat. Once he saw the ferry approaching, we got to the middle of the lake, where I changed the boat. Rudy told me, Esteban would charge 5k, it was 10, but I was happy with that, too. On the ferry they took 5k (less than 1k for locals, but again….). It took 2,5hrs to Petrohue. Probably it would have been even possible to continue to Cochamo on the RR. Before going to Perrohue, the ferry went to the Rio Conchas bay, again one person was brought to the ferry on a small boat. It would probably have been possible to get on this small boat and to start the RR at the beach.
But my plan was to climb the V. Osorno.

The very nice guy at the Conaf in Petrohue told me, that shops to rent the gear are in Ensenada (Terra SUR, at the junction of the road coming from Peteohue). From Ensenada I hitchhiked to Refugio teskiclub (close to the Ski station, single room: 23k the night, food). The much less friendly Conaf guy at the station there (150m behind the refuge) told me in the evening, that I have to come in the morning and he will not allow me as a solo hiker to go to the summit, if there is no other registrated group. What a stupid rule! Luckily when I started at 5.a.m. in the morning he was obviously sleeping. Just don’t go to the station and you will have no problems! There were groups - and they didn’t registrer. It took me 3 hours first on volcanic gravel, later on steep and harsh snow to get to the summit. Breathtaking view all the time, highly recommended to all gpt-hikers , which are experienced in walking with crampons.

* '''From 2024-12-25 to 2024-12-28 // packrafting // NOBO // rp opt 2 // Nic, Lukas, Basil, Max'''

Starting out from cochamo on Christmas Day we were able to hitch a ride to Ralún after 8km. Went another 25 or so until we camped in an open pasture.

Overall Route is a bit muddy even though it was dry but very passable in these conditions. Tabanos were mental. Sometimes 50 or so swarm you making stopping for more than a few seconds very annoying. They don’t like smoke or night time.

In day two Ford (22.0/226, La Flecha) was difficult to pass and the continuation of the trail is a bit hidden. After the main crossing go all the way down on the right side of the islet and there is a small crossing to the other side where the trail continues.

After the settler at 15.6/232 (Aroldo) we couldn’t find a way to the port farther down (very muddy and no clear path from his house). So we camped a bit farther down from the pack raft route that starts at the last fork. We camped on a sandy bank and were easily able to pack raft out of the shallow waters the next morning.

Starting a 6:30 am in the morning we packrafted approx. 16km to el Callao in about 4-4.5 hours with no wind. Walked and camped at the “hot springs” afterwards. They were basically nonexistent (would have to pay to unlock a weird house with maybe some warm water). We unfortunately talked to the settlers on the way there because there was a cow dying. They were uninterested in the cow and just wanted money for the hot springs. After setting up camp, the settler showed up and awkwardly asked us for 6000 clp each to which we happily paid because we realized we were on their land.

We then took the route over Cerro cenizo. Absolutely worth it but quite technical with the volcanic rocks and snow. Instead of taking the packs up the mountain we went up without and then went back down and around to join up with the route again. The route down is also easy to find. Be aware that el poncho is a bit of a long stretch of houses and the resupply is not where it’s marked currently. There are a few houses on the way that sell stuff but a real Mercado is further down the road in Rupanco.

* '''From 2024-12-20 to 2024-12-23 // packrafting // 3 days // NOBO RR // Mara, Tobias'''

No difficulties and just a few tabanos on this beautiful section. Crossed Lago Todos Los Santos from Rio Petrohue with little wind in 1.5 days. Camped day 2 beside refuge -41.00172, -72.16788 for 6000CPS per person. Laura and Augustin were happy to sell us fresh bread, lettuce and eggs. Trail is in a good condition (compared to other sections). Met no other hikers but friendly settlers.

* '''17th to 20th dec 2024 / / Hiking / sobo var 1 + RR + boat + bus / Allie'''

I attempted the RR over cerro cenizo in bad weather early december and then i had tendinite at my achilles so took a three week break at lago rupanco.
On this trip i hitchhiked to las gaviotas. From there the hike to refugio el callao is easy. The sign says it takes 9 hours to get to the refugio, but it can be done in 6 hours easlily in my opinion. I took a nice break at the termas, which were open by chance. Its two carved out tree trunks. I walked another 3 km to the refugio. +56 9 5018 0447 this is the number of rudi yefi that keeps it. Any boat information can be asked to him.
The 18th i went halfway up the cerro cenizo on a day hike. The trail is easy to follow.
The 19th of december i didnt do anything because of bad weather.
The 20th i went down from the refugio to todos los Santos. Rudis son drives a lancha that brings you to the boat to petrohue. The boat over todos los santos to petrohue costs 5000clp for foreigners. From there i took a bus to puerto varas and then a bus to cochamo.

* '''From 2024-12-8 to 2024-12-11 // 3 day // Hiking // SOBO // Las Gaviotas - RR // Mo'''
Found s.o. who dropped me at Las Gaviotas, then walked to the Termas which were open (luckily), slept there, went down to the beach Puerto El Callao/ El Rincon and waited for my boat I organised beforehand (80000 pesos) that took me to Petrohue.

==Season 2023/24==

* '''From 2024-02-26 to 2024-02-27 // 2 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 // Quentin Clavel'''

From Cochamo it's 15 long km on the asphalt road then 10 km on the gravel road and finally back on a nice trail (few cars stopped to offered me a ride while I was on the gravel so it seems easy to skip the first section I guess). I slept at the lake todos los santos with an amazing view on the volcano puntiagudo.

Arriving at the beach you'll see some big houses. It's like a lodge for rich people. I met Maria at the beach and explained the situation. I think she's Eduardo's wife, who was not there at the moment.

She knew that I haven't got any other choice for cross the lake and it was difficult to negotiate the price. So it was 80,000CLP for the crossing. It's was pretty late on that day so we agreed to make the traverse at 8am the day after. I slept next to this amazing lake, then the next morning, as we've dealt, I have been driven by Georgio, Maria son's.

80000clp is really painful, but the scenery of the traverse is absolutely amazing ! Georgio letted me at "El Rincón" where the trail continues.

Trail was in ok condition and easy to follow. I met Rudy's son with three horses on the way, then rudy's wife around the settlement. I continued my way until a point where there's a sign "thermals 2km" PK21,72. It's the junction with variant A. Take the junction. I followed the RR on the right, but it was a mess at the end (bushbashing+crossing river).

Few kilometers after I met Alejandro, who has his house there and his own termas. He's a very nice guy, but as the weather wasn't nice and because it was early and I wanted to continue and go on, I didn't stopped to have a bath.

The thermals camp just after Alejandro's house is very nice. There's toilet, flat and nice place to set up the tent and it's next to the river, pretty cool one.

Then, bc the weather was getting worse and worse, I took the option 1 to Laguna Los Quetros. A bit sad to miss the climb of Cerro Cenizo and its apparently amazing view on volcàn puntiagudo, bit it is what it is. The track was well marked, obviously muddy BC of the big rain that I had that day, but still less bad than on some part of the GPT22 (If you're going SOBO that's just a warmup 😜).

Arriving at las gaviotas at the end of the day.

* '''2024-Jan-31 to 2024-Feb-02 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / {21-01} - RR - {21-A} - RR - ferry(Petrohué) / Lilian'''

From the comments for ferry transportation, looks like need 100k-140k for one way, and I'm not sure is it will be more in 2024, ao i tried the ferry option, unfortunately failed. About the details read the comments below.

I joined 21 directly from 20 at Las Gaviotas (like Martin & Helena at 22/23 season). So i walked {21-01} for starting.

Dirt road walking to km2.9 then becomes trails.

From km2.9 to Laguna Los Quetros campground, trail sometimes breaks into some small trails like branches that going the same place, mostly they'll combine together later. Also trail crossing many tiny streams, easy to collect water all the way. Sometimes it is going in narrow valley tunnel with muddy ground, so maybe it'll be in a very slippery condition in rain or after rain.

Camp$[15.9/682] : Laguna Los Quetros campground.
Free because no one there. Beautiful lake and nice camping spot, I'm so happy i camped here! Lot of different types of spots you can choose at here, grassland just beside the lake with excellent views, well covered under trees with good weather protection, beside some brushes for privacy, or camping beside picnic table and fire ring enjoying the night with friends, all these i said you can choose at here!

The trail down to Todos Ios Santos Lake is almost the same condition, but much muddy and lot of up and down after Settler,Lodging,Ferry[23.2/432] when it close to river.

Hot spring[19.2/438] and the refuge is closed, all locked up. I saw some alga is growing at riverbed (means spring nearby), but the water is cold in river.

Km19.95 : junction of RR and {21-A}, a stick with "turn right arrow" there, so i take {21-A}.

{21-A} km1.05 : nice viewpoint(-40.99042, -72.16940) of Volcán Puntiagudo on the tiny hill at your right side, 2min climbing up only!

Km1.35 : a beautiful grassland(-40.99310, -72.16861) for camping just before rejoin RR. Also a stream is following good before you climbing up to the grassland.

Bridge RR [27.1/248] : flat spot can fit 2 tents before the crossing.

Km28.35 : flat spot can fit 4-6 tents under trees just before you going out to grassland. And the grassland(-41.04036, -72.16133) also is flat and beautiful, good for camping!

Km28.6 : go through the gate.

Km29.4 : one more grassland here, but the previous one is better.

Port[29.9/204] : El Callao, i didn't find any good spot at beach, one small grassland just before you go down to the beach, but not too flat, also poops around there. So the best camping spot before the beach i think is at km28.35, under some trees with views of grassland.

From the comments of Martin & Helena, some information at internet, and some conversations from locals at Lago Rupanco, i know there is a ferry called Elizabeth running from Peulla to Petrohué on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at November to February. But it need a phone calls reservation by the residents that lives at Todos Ios Santos Lake. I'm not sure it welcome backpackers or not, but i think you can go with some locals when the ferry arrives at your port.

From the schedule i know, from Peulla to Petrohué on Friday is at 8am, so maybe arrive El Callao at 8.30am to 9am. But, i waited at El Callao from 8am to 9.30am, nothing coming or any ferry going on the lake. (So i assume this ferry just running if there is reservations. And you can't book it, because you are just a tourist for them)

Luckily a local drive a small boat to El Callao from Petrohué with some hikers, i asked him about going Cayutué, but he didn't want to go there, and give me a lovely offer take me back to Petrohué with 25k CLP. I accepted, because today is raining and windy, i didn't want to wait at the beach, didn't know is it anything will come, also in a bad weather condition.

I love my rain jacket and the life jacket that the local provide to me when I'm flying on the lake about 30min.

Then i take the bus to Cochamó for GPT22.

For bus schedule:

10:30 Petrohué - Ensenada 1800CLP 20min
11:20 Ensenada - Cochamó 3000CLP 50min

* '''2024-01-23 to 2024-01-29 / 6,5 days / Hiking / WEBO / Option 3, 3B? (Bariloche+), Option 2, 2B, C (Bariloche+) / Natalie & Tomáš'''
[Note 2024 November: Beginning of this is not in the GPT yet at all, but it is in our suggestions in the 2024 Track files. This is the end of an alternative Argentinian route connecting GPT16 all the way to GPT21. In our opinion, for hikers it is probably better as it involes a lot less roadwalking and is very scenic (and the roadwalking there is is mostly easily hitchable). It might be slightly mode difficult than the RR. This is especially useful when coming from the Villarica traverse. What follows is an extension of GPT21, option 2.

Our pictures: https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1740951703077375/.]

Overview (sorry for the length):

Since the mountains of Bariloche are a bit of a playground of trails, we did a variation of mainly high trails starting from Laguna Guiterezz and onward to Pampa Linda (joining Option 3 midway) and then followed the "Jesuitos/Vuriloche" route to Ralún (Option 2). We had a few short and a few long days to make a total of 6,5 days.

For the Bariloche part we wanted to go Lago Guiterezz – Lago Frey (via optional valley) – Refugio Jacob – Refugio Italiana (behind which you join Option 3) and out via Lago Ilón to Pampa Linda. However since I banged up my knee I separated from Tomáš. He went on to do the high route as planned from Jacob and I went down the Huella Andina and then back up via the Laguna Azul trail to meet near Laguna Creton.

Re-supply is possible but expensive and with limited variety at Pampa Linda, so bringing most of your food is advised. I restocked on bread (5mil for 1kg or 2.5mil for half) some sweets (2-2.5mil) and had a meal (9mil). There is weak wifi at the tourist info stand (sometimes not working at all, sometimes passing through messages, e-mails and even non-interactive websites, the speed was not a function of the number of people trying to connect) and two campsites (1@4mil, no services apart from toilets and water and 1@8mil with shared electricity and showers).

Highlights of the Bariloche part were indeed mountain vistas, Torre principal of Cerro Catedral lurking everywhere the first two days, rock scrambling and lagoons. The disadvantages were the slow terrain, (a lot of edging on rock/kitty litter dirt/dust on slab/steep tree belaying dirt) and park rules. You have to register online (easy and free, there is a Google form on park's website) and register in person at every Refugio (it is free and if they do not see you, you can get away with not registering, we only actually did it once). Camping is free but it can be annoying because of the amount of people concentrating around refugios. Officially you are only allowed to camp near refugios and at certain designated places, but given the number of tent places along the route, this rule is often breached. We never bought food from the refugios, but that option is out there.

As for the Jesuitos route (Vuriloche) we were lucky because things were dry and therefore the trek was a lot better than expected. The forest walking/mud tunnels felt like Indiana Jones. The biodiversity of mosses and ferns felt like home (West coast of British Columbia) and the valley settler homesteads were picture perfect at times (and smelled like summer houses in central Europe). The trek to Tronador's "Refugio Viejo" was not to be missed and neither were the hot springs near Ford at [101,3/351], if you can get there around nightime. The passing through the border with the Carabineros was alarmingly easy. They did not check our food (we smuggled a tomato!) and they barely asked any questions, they just took our passports and came back with a stamp (no PDI paper). Don't forget to check in with the Argentinian border patrol before leaving, if it wasn't for Tomáš, I would have had to walk back from the carabinieros because I did not think it was necessary since I never got an entry stamp from Argentina in the first place – I was wrong. The Argentinians made us fill out a piece of paper to show to the Chilians and perhaps communicated with them that we were coming.

Things to note:
-The Terrain around Bariloche is very much alpine-like terrain. It is slow and can be dangerous so if you are not comfortable with steep terrain, rock, edging, gullies and possible snow then I suggest choosing the Huella Andina or the regular GPT21 Option 03 (it is comparable to GPT11-GPT12 around Cerro Dedos or the ridge at the end of GPT08) - all of these trails are regularly walked though.
-The mud: it is said that in the wet season or after a recent rain, the trail on the Jesuitos route gets so muddy that it may be impassable. From what we saw, most of the mud tunnels were very dry so I think it would take a hard rain to make it impassable.
-The mosquitos were a thing but we were only "swarmed " in our camp spot on the other side of Cayute (and we built our tent once for lunch against them). Horse flies seem to be dying off but they were crazy around the Carabinieros.
- Option 2C on the North side of Rio Blanco is not meant for pedestrians, there is a sign saying for pedestrians to stay on the Right (South). Maybe it is because of the ford over Rio Blanco (one out of the two bridges still exist, the first one on the west side) or maybe the settlers are not interested in hikers. There is a skinny suspension bridge over the river at the hotsprings (300 m SE from the ford waypoint) but you can easily ford as well. Some of the bridges on OSM are broken and nonexistent [was corrected in summer 2024].
- we got a hitch for only the last 4km of the Laguna Cayute road, then hitched slowly to Puerto Varas for food and a rest.

The details:

We started by getting out of Bariloche by a city bus number 41 (0.2 USD per person, goes every 30 minutes, Google maps or Moovit [more precise] have the schedules, you need to have a SUBE card [available at bus terminals] valid in all of Argentina, topping it online is seemingly impossible, in theory there are many small shops that can top it up [they are marked SUBE, the SUBE app has their locations] but we got lucky only at the third such shop) to Villa Lago Guiterezz and then hitchhiking to the southern end of Lago Guiterezz, where we started walking along a very crowded beach and then in-the-evening-decidedly-not-crowded lakeshore to a beach at the mouth of Arroy van Titter. We then walked towards Lago Frey by taking a partialy (it is probably cleared from time to time) overgrown but beautiful valley just south of the main route. It was slow and swampy (cca for 2 km/1 hour but had little people and offered impressive views of Cerro Catedral south and it's towers. Through this we bypassed the Refugio Frey and made our way to the first of many passes near Laguna Schmoll. The way up is simple scrambling anyone can do, but the way down was a mix of slow edging and sand sliding (it is probably a lot less travelled). We waited until the heat of the day ended to make our way up the second pass above Refugio Jacob. For this second pass it was easy walking on the way up, but the way down was once again slow edging on relatively steep terrain. We registered and camped at Refugio Jacob to have an early start on the next day. The Refugio and campsites were packed and felt cramped.

I had a bad encounter with a log that morning and my knee was banged up so the next day Tomáš and I split. He went on to the high route and I went down the Huella Andina and up again to a meeting spot near Lago Laguna Creton via Laguna Azul.

As for getting down the Huella Andina it was slower than expected but fine, and getting up to Azul was fast but more involved than expected. The last 200 vertical meters was low angle slab beside a waterfall, which was fun for going up but maybe not so fun for the way down. The rest of the way to Creton and camping was easy with fun slabby terrain.

Tomáš's report:

I went from Refugio Jacob to Refugio Italiano through Pico Refugio and then to Pampa Linda through laguna Illón. It took me two full days. The warden at Jacob told us that the route to Refugio Italiano was closed due to snow (a lot fell late in spring), so I met no one on the route, though I saw a set of footprints that were at most from the previous day. The route is mostly marked by cairns, sometimes it is invisible and sometimes you can see a painted sign (there is little consistency in terms of shape or colour of the marking) but is easy to follow with a map. The climb to Pico Refugio was easy scrambling. There were bolted rings that you can use to secure a rope but I did not think it was dangerous to climb unsecured. It was never vertical, the holds were good. It took me 10-15 minutes to get through this section of maybe 50 vertical meters. SAC 5 or slightly under. A much less vertical zigzagging route appeared then on that went to a pass still before Pico Refugio. From then on I sometimes did walk on snow but it was soft without any creeks eating it from underneath so I felt safe. It took me four hours to get to Cerro Navidad. The gully from there was mostly under snow for about 300 vertical meters. I went down on the snow until a creek started flowing under it from left. Then I stayed on the left side of the undersnow creek or on bare rocks. Lower in the valley the route was a bit eroded and there was even a short (20 metres - SAC 4 at most) fixed rope but it was not too difficult to get down. It was not easy walking though even in the valley, one crosses the stream several times and there are big stones even in the forrest (SAC 3). I took the first OSM route left to Refugio Italiano. It was quite (but not fully) vertical, but easy, I did use my hands and it was fun. It took me four hours from Cerro Navidad to Refugio Italiano, where there were lots (40?) of people at 4 PM.

I continued along the lake, where there was even a section with steps on the stone made out of metal rods (10 metres, SAC 3-4). This part is frequented and so was easy. It continued to be easy until Laguna CAB (though I lost the route several times going up in the forest). I reached the lake before dusk. I met two people on the near end of the lake. There were several people on the far end of the lake, where there are lots of mosquitoes, not recommended to camp. There is no trail around the lake - one fords the lake along its shore for about 1 km, it is not deep. I started going up to Cerro CAB. It is steep and was at first muddy but the route is clear enough in the bush and then marked by cairns on the rocky section (SAC 2-3). I reached the pass when it started to be fully dark. I continued the horizontal traverse (SAC 3-4) with a headlamp but 800 metres took me almost 40 minutes so I stopped before the route starts descending (thank God for the InRreach to InRreach messaging, I could let Natalie know I would not make it that night – the next day it took me four additional hours to get where she was camping). It was hard to follow the cairns as one just walks on bare rocks with no visible trail whatsoever, sometimes using hands to go up or down a a few metres. There is a nice horizontal miniplateau ideal for sleeping on a warm windless night (no mosquitoes!) with plentiful water from the melting snow.

In the morning, I woke up to a splendid view of Tronador. I went down, at first again using my hands here and there (SAC 4), but not much. Mosquitoes during daytime in the valley, which is actually a pass you reach from above. The climb to the pass at Cerro Cristal is clear trail at first but the last 150 vertical metres is a diagonal upward traverse walking on large slabs or wedges made out of pure granite. Their slope is good and I thought it was fun and it is quite scenic (SAC 3-4). Going down to Laguna Creton is steep and the route is sometimes a bit hard to find but it is not too hard (SAC 3). I saw one tent around Laguna Creton and met about six people going my direction to Laguna Illón, where there were dozens of people at 4 PM. Going down I met over a dozen prople either going my way or going up (and then I met Natalie of course).

Altogether, this traverse took me to routes that are not overun with people and are quite nice with lots of views (Cerro Cathedral is a scary darling that has that name for a reason), being mostly above the tree line. However, the route is demanding – you will be happy to cover 1,5 km per hour. It seems many people go up to a refugio, spend the night and go down again, so the aproach routes to refugios are more popular than the connecting traverses between them. These routes seemed to be in quite good shape thanks to that.

From Pampa Linda, we followed the estabilished option, it was not very eventful and took us three days and a few hours. At the border, the carabinieros have a free basic camping there - expect only water and dry toilet, but you can leave your tent with things and go up to Refugio Viecho, which is functional and sleeps about 8 people plus there are several tent places near it. We met a Spanish couple with a guide who would climb Trenador the next day. People go to the border from Argentina for day trips or two-day in-and-out trips, we met several groups and there were four tents for the night. From the border, we would meet one group per day and one settler per day. The route is travelled but not busy (carabinieros do not have horses and probably rotate by helicopter, we saw one the next day).

The hot springs (41.2479669S, 72.0470375W) are very clean and have perfect temperature, there are two pools for about even ten people altogether. On the other side of the bridge, there is a new house probably meant for tourists. We did not meet or see anybody so we just used the hotsprings but techically you probably should go and ask the setler about 300 m downstream on the other side of the river for permission (and payment?). There is water everywhere on the trail even now when it had been dry for a few weeks. I looked for a route that would connect to La Junta in Cochamo and I found a start of a trail, but it might have been nothing and was anyway hopelessly overgrown. [I saw some puestos/settlers in valleys next to this pass: 41.3661786S, 71.9190514W in case somebody feels for an exploratory adventure that might not go).

* '''2023-Dec-28 / 3.5 days / Packrafting / SOBO / RP + RR (Variant A) / Lauren & Sebastian'''

TLDR: Very enjoyable section; No mentionable difficulties; Packraft Lago Todos Los Santos in the morning if you can, as wind will pick up in the afternoon; Great chats with the settlers along the way

From Entre Lagos we hitchhiked and took a bus + ferry to wp Ferry {20} [41.9/123] (Las Gaviotas) where we camped. It took us the entire day to get there so we stayed at the campsite right by the beach (CLP12,500 per person - expensive and maybe the other campsite is cheaper, but it was a very nice campsite with good facilities and hot tub if you like that).

We hiked the next day on RP to wp Refuge, Camp $ {21} [19.2/438] and stayed the night. Rudi wasn’t there and the hot tubs were closed. It was an easy hike all the way. There we met Alejandro, Sergio’s son, who mentioned that Sergio doesn’t live in the valley anymore - it’s him and his mother now, so no more beers, but Alejandro speaks fluent English, which made it easier for us to connect :). If you want to get in touch with him, connect through his insta @valleelcallao.

The next day we continued on RR, took variant 21-A and camped at wp Port {21} [29.9/204] (El Callao) right by the beach. We met Rudi there and had a lovely chat with him.

* We started paddling early the next day, crossed Lago Todos los Santos in ard 4 hours and went to shore at wp Lake {21} [53.6/200]. We continued to wp River, Camp {21} [61.1/237] (Rio Conchas) where we went into the water again to paddle the short RP upstream river segment and across Lago Cayutue. It was not the best idea to paddle there in the afternoon, as headwinds on the lake were strong. However it’s a short stretch and going back would have cost more time, so we managed, and the landscape from the lake is really amazing. We stayed the night at wp Lake, Camp {21} [64.1/233]. Beautiful place!

We went to the parking lot at wp Settler {21} [63.4/448] the next morning and were offered a ride down the valley by some lovely people, so we hitchhiked to Cochamó.

* '''2023-12-12 to 2023-12-14 / 3 days / Packrafting / SOBO /RR / Roman'''

Hitchhiked from Entre Lagos all the way to the start of the RR. Beginning was a bit overgrown nothing bad but a bit annoying (7km) [in hindsight I wouldn't consider it BB but close before it, still doable and worth it]. Snow stating at 1350m good to hike as soon as you are out the forest. Down the other side: watch the GPS the entry in the forest can be easily missed and trust the GPS. There are some marks in the bark. The point is here: -40.956873, -72.183669. Trust the GPS and after ~100m you will find a "proper" trail (visible easy to follow). Stayed at the Refuge, Camp $ {21} [19.2/438] [Rudi brought some people NoBo with the Boat). The trail from there to the lake is at the beginning for 5k a bit annoying due to a lot of vegitation (no BB). The frist bridge after Rudi is a bit sketchy, i crawled over it, because there is nothing to hold on, some planks ate missing and some are badly damaged [https://imgur.com/a/piW3AI3]. After that the bridges getting better. Pacrafted the next day to Camp ? {21} [52.2+1.0/196]. Startet Packrafting at 02:00 PM pitched tent at 08:00 PM. Conditions where good. Waited for a window of no wind to cross the lake to the other bank. A lot of exit possibilities there a lot more settlers than on the map. Overall it was a quite day; wind was mainly from west. Got on shore here: Lake {21} [53.6/200]. Trail after that easy and beautiful! Hitchhiked to Cochamó from here: -41.316407, -72.273071.

Overall: beginning a but annoying due to dense vegetation (no BB). After that the trail is ok and is good after the crossing. Would reccomend it even if the beginning is annoying and after Rudi also vegetation but the views are worth it!

Contact: https://linktr.ee/RundW

==Season 2022/23==

* '''2023-Feb-14 to 2023-Feb-17 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena'''

We joined 21 directly from 20 at Las Gaviotas (see our previous comment). The route to the Laguna Los Quetros is well marked with signs and its nice hiking eventhough pretty muddy for us after 3 rainy days. In the beginning it is a minor road that crosses land of local settlers and after some time its getting into the forrest which is really amazing with many ‘levels’ of vegetation. We ended the day on the official campground that is actually free because no one was there just like others mentioned. There is a fireplace and some benches, all covered. Nice beach and views, definitely one of the nicer campsites.

The following day we had only one goal which was to get close to the Lago Todos Santos and ideally arrange transfer for the next day. Again nice trail through the rain forrest. The hot springs are owned by already mentioned Rudi who needs to open them, as well as the refugio, as we found out. There were some Chileans at the time, but we just took a look and continued. There are 2 baths with hot spring water in a wooden chalet.

We continued with option A directly to the second marked settlement (Dos Cóndores - its not correct in OSM), because of previously mentioned price requested by Rudi (130k) and info from those guys at hot springs who were charged 100k, so it didn’t look like it would be possible to get below that 100k price. Spoiler - we paid that anyway 😅. At the settlement km 23.2 we didn’t get any specific answer because the father was away, bringing other tourists the next day with his boat, and his wife or son couldn’t confirm if the transfer will be possible. We stayed in their cabin for 10k CLP pp for a room, but there was no one else staying that day. There is shower with cold water only and kitchen. Camping is 5k CLP pp and they also provide food - classic dinner or breakfast, asado or bread / eggs.

We decided to go in the morning to the port, primarily to ask Esteban for the transfer. The trail is in good condition. You need to turn left before the shelters, before the port, and you will get to a house of a German family who are really kind and helpful. They speak also English. They showed us the way to Esteban through their garden, but its probably possible to get there from the other side / hill. Esteban agreed to take us the same day at 6PM, we asked him around 11AM. The price was 100k.

Another possible option for transfer over the lake - there should be boat called Elizabeth, organized by government for local residents, that leaves from the northern port km 29.9 on Friday at 9 AM. We don’t know about the other days. Rather verify with locals. We know it goes to Petrohué for sure, but with other places it depends on the demand, don’t know how it works really. But its definitely possible to get to the most frequent places. Eventhough its for residents, they don’t have problem with taking backpackers.

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

* '''2022-NOV-25 / 3 days / hiking / SOBO / RR and OR A / Yannic & Mirjam'''
We took the bus from Puerto Montt to Osorono. Unfortunately, the morning bus to Lago Rupanco was already gone. There's supposed to be another one at 4:00 p.m. we decided to take the bus to Entre Lagos and hitchhike from there - which wasn't easy. For a long time nobody gave us a ride on the Minor Road in the direction of Lago Rupanco. In the end we got some shorter rides and hiked some parts too. We stayed the first night at Camping Las Nalcas in Puerto Rico. No official camping but it is allowed to set up the tent on the private land for 4000 pesos. Mini market with simple equipment is right next door. Hike to Laguna Los Quetros was easy and well marked. Camping was free because nobody was there. The next day we went on to Lago Todos Los Santos. At S 40.98259 / W 72.16572 there is an arrow pointing to the right. Be sure to follow this to get on Optional Route A, as there is a gate on the main trail that is difficult to overcome. We stopped at Rudy's and asked about the transport. Because of the increased gas prices, he wanted 140,000 CLP for the crossing, which was too expensive for us. We walked on to Esteban and were happy that he offered us the transfer for 80,000 CLP, which we accepted. He also allowed us to camp on the beach in front of the house for free. Lago Cayutué was definitely a highlight for camping so far.
All the ways were in good condition, but sometimes a bit muddy. So maybe not that easy after heavy rainfalls

* '''2022-NOV-3 / 3 days / NOBO /hiking / RR / Frank'''
From Cochamo I walked 15KM on the road to Ralun crossroad (see transport section) Basic shop Minimercado El Cruce at Ralun Cross. Then 9KM on a good dirt road with a little traffic to 'Pass 510 metres'. You could probably hitch part of this if you want. After the pass the road deteriorates to a rough track. Cross a log bridge before Lago Cayutue. Beautiful campsite by the lake, one of the best on the GPT so far. On day 2 I walked to Lago todos los Santos & met Eduardo. He lives at the first house you come to NOBO just before the lake. He was busy & his boat was out of the water but agreed to take me for 80,000 CLP. Other houses & boats there are owned by weekenders who are rarely present. I believe Eduardo is your only option NOBO. However he said he is usually there & only goes to town occasionally. The crossing is spectacular with views of Osorno, Tronador & Puntiagudo.

I continued to the camp at the hot spring. The spring is in a locked shed & there is a basic refuge there, also locked. Rudy came by on his horse in the evening to open the shed. 10,000 CLP to camp & use the spring. If you want to be sure the spring or refuge are open then call in at Refugio dos Condores NOBO. Note the location marked for Refugio dos Condores on Openstreetmap which is used by Gaia & other apps is not correct. The location marked on the track files is the correct one. After Refugio dos Condores you cross a small bridge & on a ridge there are two signs saying Aguas Calientes 2KM. Don't follow the track file here but go down left at the signs on a trail, cross a small stream & go up to a meadow with some farm houses. Go out flat across the meadow with the houses on your right, continuing on a trail in the forest. After 1.5KM you rejoin the track file. This is much easier than the track file route (I used the 2019 track file)

Day 3: Pay attention after Pass 830M, there are a lot of switchbacks in the forest & the route is not obvious. Laguna los Quetros is also a very nice camp but I continued to Las Gaviotas. Got the ferry out at 8PM. This unscheduled ferry does not connect to a bus. I walked out 3KM to Entre Rios, cheap camping, cabanas & basic shop. The campsite has tap water & rabbits but no toilet or shower. The entire route has now been cut back, hardly any bush bashing. There are quite a few mud wallows on the track but you can go around them. Part of the route is on sunken trails & it's likely to flood out & be a mudbath after rain.

* '''2022-Oct-17 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Alice & Florian'''

We took the bus from Ensenada to Petrohue (every 45 min each day) and spent the day in the park around Petrohue. They are nice few hours walk on the volcano Osorno, near the the lake and in the forest, and the CONAF team is really nice there (kept our backpacks).
Then we arranged a boat transfer from Petrohue to Cayutue for 80 000 pesos. You can call Walter (+56999417795) to arrange in advance but we did not go through him in the end.

After reaching Cayutue, the trail is easy to find, a little bit muddy but okay for us after a few days of sun.
We slept at the camp # indicated on the tracks.
We arrived the next day around 4PM on the intersection between the trail and the road to Cochamo. There was no bus, but hitchhiking was easy.
We slept at the hostel Arcoiris. It is quite cheap as we paid 15000 pesos per person for a double private room, the kitchen is available and well equipped. You can camp as well if you are not tired of it :)

One another piece of information. The CONAF guys in Petrohue told us that they are planning to maintain and put more signalization on La ruta de los jesuitas. This trail comes from Argentina and crosses the Lago de todos los santos until the Rio Blanco. There you can join the main route of the GPT with an optional route.
Considering this information, it will be an additional argument for Jan to change this optional route to the main one.

==Season 2021/22==

* '''2021-Dec-13 / 4 days / hiking / NOBO / RR / Molly and Melissa '''

We took the bus from Puerto Varas towards Cochamó, but got dropped at the road about 15 km before and started directly on the gravel road. The bus leaves quite a few times, but you have to ask around for the specific times. We took it at 13, and I think it left at least once more that day. The employees at the different outdoor stores know pretty well where the bus leaves from and who to ask. We camped at the spot marked "camping" near a small lake, it was quite nice, near a river as well. We got to Lago Todos Los Santos around 13 and asked at the first house marked on the GPS. It's situated on a hill behind three newly built vacation houses. Eduardo who lives there came out as soon as the dogs started barking, and was immediately ready to take us across the lake. The place where you want to get dropped of is called El Rincón. We were charged 70.000 pesos like other people have said as well.
On the second day we camped right after the first "bridge" waypoint.
Termas:
The third day we went to the termas. On the way there, you pass Rudy's house - it's about two hours before the termas. They have a cabin which is about 8000 CLP and sell breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as bread, honey, eggs and so on. They also have the option to camp at the termas which is 7000 CLP for camping and access. They have a wooden tub in a small shed, so you need to get the key from them - easiest going nobo as you pass their house. We later found out that there is a second option. A guy who lives in the house right next to the termas has made his own, it's more natural looking with rocks, and it's outside and more private. You have to knock on his house for him to show you. We actually thought it was nicer, but didn't hear the price. He is also a really nice guy who offers trips to Cerro cenizas with great views of Volcán Puntiagudo if he has time. It's a one day trip according to him. The last part of the trail to Las Gaviotas was fairly easy, although with a lot of confusing trails that ultimately seem to go the same way.
Las Gaviotas:
In Las Gaviotas there are a few different options for sleeping. There seem to be two or three different people with cabañas, there's a nice camping ground right on the beach with toilets, and we saw a tent further down on the beach which didn't seem to bother anyone. There is a very small shop in a shed on the beach with a few snacks and sodas, and it's possible to buy some bread, eggs and honey but definitely no resupply options. The beach was beautiful and good for swimming!
Access/exit:
The ferry to Puerto Buey leaves right from the beach every day except Tuesday and Saturday, and costs 200 CLP as previously written. It leaves around 7-8 am and probably some other times as well, we took it Friday at 14 and we saw it leaving twice in the evening Thursday. Puerto Buey is even smaller than Las Gaviotas. The bus left from Puerto Buey (the shed where you get dropped of by the ferry) directly to Osorno at 15:30. We were told that the morning ferry matches a bus that only goes to Puerto Octay, but maybe there are more buses from there. As has been written before, it's possible to walk to Puerto Buey along a gravel road by the lake.

* '''2021-Nov-29 to 2021-Nov-30/ 1,5 days / hiking / NOBO / OR: Lago Todos Los Santos - Cerro Cenizo - Volcan Puntiagudo ridge - Lago Rupanco / Alex Abramov'''

This new variant is not the same as GPT21 option 4: it is easier and more logical. Easy/Moderate difficulty.
Rudy Jefi and his refugio are still in business (the price for boat from Petrohue 70.000), but Camping Las Nalcas and Mini Mercado Rupanco were closed.

* '''2021-Nov-17 to 2021-Nov-21 / 5 days / Packrafting and Hiking / Traverse of Lago Todos Los Santos, Option 2 Rio Blanco and Ruta de los Jesuitas (Vuriloche) / Meylin Ubilla and Jan Dudeck'''

We started this season at Petrohue on the western end of Lago Todos los Santos. Access by bus to Petrohue is easy (Bus from Puerto Varas every 20 to 30 min). Petrohue is a suitable starting point for packrafters that travel southbound with heavier fjord-suitable packrafting equipment.

Lago Todos los Santos: can get very rough with wind but we had two calm days with moderate wind in the late afternoon only. We paddled 40 km in two easy days. Only few of the originally dozens of settlers are still living on the shore and mostly the rich and super-rich of Chile have build vacation homes on the often steep coastline. But since the access to lakes and lake shores is legally guaranteed in Chile, this should not cause a significant problem.

Rio Blanco: 6 years ago we met a settler from Rio Blanco who confirmed that a horse trail traverses this valley and connects to the Ruta de los Jesuitas (Paso Vuriloche). Now we came to investigate and record this route. The well maintained trail includes two river crossings that are well fordable in the morning after some reasonable dry days. Packrafters can cross these fords by packraft if the water level is elevated but hiker may struggle after heavy rain.

Ruta de los Jesuitas (Paso Vuriloche): A well maintained but muddy horse trail connects to Lago Cayetue. Three river generally easy river crossings may become difficult to pass after heavy rain.

Conclusion: Connecting from El Callao to Rio Blanco requires a shorter and more wind protected lake traverse (compared to the current regular route to Cayetue) making it an attractive option for packrafters and southbound hikers if the weather is reasonable dry. I’m considering to change the Regular Route for this option and recommend the route via Cayetue in bad weather only.

El Callao to Cayetue: 22 km on direct route
El Callao to Rio Blanco: 14 km on direct route

==Season 2020/21==

==Season 2019/20==

* '''2020-Jan-04 to 2020-Jan-06 / 3 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Shaun'''

I accessed the southbound start of this section by walking 7km east from El Poncho on the dirt road that runs along the south shore of Lago Rupanco (=Oh-Mr-V@20-0a-#001). From settlers Sergio and Sandro, I learned that Esteban is an alternative to Rudy for crossing Lago Todos los Santos. Esteban was able to take me immediately, whereas around the same time Linda (see below) unfortunately had to wait a couple of days. My experience of the rest of section was similar to others’.

* '''2020-Jan-03 to 2020-Jan-06 / 4 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Linda'''

Starting on the beach of the North shore of Lago Rupanco (arriving from GPT20). Waypoint in Las Gaviotas Food and Lodging is great! Nelly prepared me a big glass of fresh raspberry juice.

Trail to Lago Todos Los Santos is easy and very nice. Only problem = the horse flies that loved me and I had at least 50 around me!

Stop at Las Termas! Beside the cold river, you will find a cabana with 2 bath tubes carved in wood full of hot thermal water. Amazing to camp and rest here.

Next house you will see on the trail is the one of Sergio. Very nice guy. He makes artisanal beer if you want to try one of them!

Then, as mentioned by Martin, in Refugio Dos cóndores, you can ask for the boat transfer of Lago Todos Los Santos to Rudy Jefi. 80000 CLP. I did and had to wait 2 days before crossing.

Other possibility for the boat transfer : when you arrive on the shore of Lago Todos Los Santos, ask the last house on the beach (waypoint = Settler) for Esteban. Same price 80000 CLP but you won't have necessarily to wait cause he seems to be more available than Rudy. Very nice man who offered me food and Lodging before I could cross the lake with Rudy! Say hello from me if you see him!!!

Between Lago Todos los Santos and Lago Cayutué, trail not maintained for about 2 kilometers. Easiest way to overcome the obstacles is to go on the left in the open fields and then go back on the track. Not that difficult but expect to be slow.

Then, after Lago Cayutué, no problem. Easy Hitchiki'g to Cochaml where you will find everything to resupply. Very good accommodation = Patagonia Nativa!

* '''2019-DEC-23 to 2019-DEC-24 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / RR / Martín Lizondo'''

Trail perfectly walkable. Ask Rudy Yefi in Dos Condores for boat transfer to Pto. Cayuthue (CLP 80.000). After crossing Lago de Todos los Santos the minor road finishes in a 1 km unmantained trail. After 1 km the trail becomes opened and it gets better as you aproach to Laguna Cayuthue. River crossings are easy, less than knee level. From Ralun there’s a bus stop to Cochamó or Pto. Montt.

* '''2019-OCT-07 / hiking / Sophie & Hendrik'''

Refugio Las Termas is a great spot to camp out. Beside the cold river, the hot springs and the fire in the refugio are very nice after a hiking day.

* '''2019-NOV-01 / hiking / Sophie & Hendrik'''

The part between Lago Cayutué and Lago Todo Los Santos is a bit tricky. The last winter(s?) damaged the trail a lot. Rivercrossings are up to knee deep and there is a lot of trees and debris on the trail. In wide parts it is easyer to walk to the right or left of it. Also at one point it is likely that you have to jump/crawl some barbed wire to get around some fallen trees. In some parts it is bush bashing. Expect to be slow in this part.

The river crossing south of Lago Cayutué is easier a little bit further south than indicated by the track files. There is a tree as a bridge.

* '''2019-OCT-30 to 2019-NOV-04 / 6 days / hiking / NOBO / RR from one km east of Ralun / Sophie & Hendrik'''

First day we camped at Lago Cayutué. Second day (to Lago Todos Los Santos) we had bad weather and were a lot slower than expected. (The trail is very damaged in this part, see recent alerts.) Due to health issues we stoped here and went to Puerto Varas for some days. We reentered the trail and only looked for a goat free campsite on our first day back (some 50min of walking). The next stops before we made it to the end of the section were Refugio Las Termas (we highly recommend to take a bath here) and Laguna Los Quetros.

What we liked: Very nice woods, beautiful lakes, very friendly and sympathetic people, crossing Todos Los Santos in an open boat in very heavy rain was harsh but beautiful, the termas, funny animals on the way.

What we did not like so much: In very long parts extremely muddy (probably depends on the season), the trail conditions between Lago Cayutué and Lago Todos Los Santos (which forced us to crawl beneath barbed wire).

=Resupply and Accommodation=

==Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns==

*Shopping: Food
Cochamó: Possible to resupply out of the several small markets located here but expensive. Some restaurants and many housing options.
Minimercado El Cruce at junction with the gravel road in Ralun, very basic. They have drinks, probably wine & possibly pasta.
There is a kiosk in Las Gaviotas by the beach with basic snacks & drinks but its opening hours are irregular.
On the road 1KM before Ralun NOBO there is a food truck but it only opens in the evenings after 5PM & may be closed in low season.
There are no other resupply options along the road Cochamo-Ralun although there are cabanas about every 4KM, some may provide food if you stay there.

*Services: Laundry
A local woman offers a laundry service from her home a few houses down a side street from the main road in Cochamó.

==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==

*There is nice camping at the small, scenic Laguna Los Quetros (Km6) near the northern start of the section. At the highly recommended Las Termas, around Km13, there is a small cabana with bath tubs carved of wood and full of hot thermal water. Settlers along the trail are interesting and welcoming.

*2022 / Yannic & Mirjam
We took the bus from Puerto Montt to Osorono. Unfortunately, the morning bus to Lago Rupanco was already gone. There's supposed to be another one at 4:00 p.m.
(...)
We stopped at Rudy's and asked about the transport. Because of the increased gas prices, he wanted 140,000 CLP for the crossing, which was too expensive for us. We walked on to Esteban and were happy that he offered us the transfer for 80,000 CLP, which we accepted.

=Transport to and from Route=

*Southbound and northbound hiking is feasible and recommended. It may be easier to arrange a southbound than a northbound boat crossing of Lago Todos de Los Santos.

*2023 December / Lauren & Sebastian
Southbound from Entre Lagos to Las Gaviotas:

Hitchhiked from Entre Lagos to intersection south of Lago Rupanco, from there we continued to hitchhike for a bit, but eventually a bus came (around 3:30 pm, CLP 1500 per person, I’m not sure where started though…) that brought us to Puerto Poncho, from there we took the ferry to Las Gaviotas (4:30 pm, CLP200 per person)

*2023 / Martin & Helena
Another possible option for transfer over the lake - there should be boat called Elizabeth, organized by government for local residents, that leaves from the northern port km 29.9 on Friday at 9 AM. We don’t know about the other days. Rather verify with locals.

*2022 / Alice & Florian
We took the bus from Ensenada to Petrohue (every 45 min each day).Then we arranged a boat transfer from Petrohue to Cayutue for 80 000 pesos. You can call Walter (+56999417795) to arrange in advance but we did not go through him in the end.

*Access to Start

Northbound:
The bus leaves Puerto Montt main bus terminal (07:45, 12:00, 3:30PM & 5PM on weekdays, runs on weekends also but weekend schedule may differ) and travels via Puerto Varas, Ensenada & Ralun to Cochamó. Get off at Ralun crossroads (intersection with a small gravel road near Minimercado EL Cruce) if you don`t want to walk 15KM on the road from Cochamo to Ralun.

Southbound:
Ferry Las Gaviotas-Puerto Buey Monday or Tuesday 7:00 & 16:30 Wednesday 2:30 PM, Friday 7:00 & 16:30, Sunday 15:00. Ferry connects with a bus. Buses may go to Entre Lagos, sometimes Puerto Octay or more often to Osorno. Buses every half hour Entre Lagos-Osorno. There should be an unscheduled ferry Las Gaviotas-Puerto Buey Monday or Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday & Sunday at 8PM but this ferry does not connect with a bus. Ferry Puerto Buey-Las Gaviotas Monday or Tuesday 8:00 & 17:30, Wednesday 15:30, Friday 8:00 & 17:30, Sunday 16:00. A bus coming from Osorno outside Terminal Rural goes to Puerto Buey to connect with the ferry on operational days, timetable not known. Ask at info. desk in Osorno Terminal Rural. No bus on days the ferry doesn`t run. Hitching is difficult, there is a gravel road all the way to Las Gaviotas but not much traffic except on weekends.
In addition to accessing through GPT20, it is possible to take private transportation on the road that runs along the south shore of Lago Rupanco and walk the final 5-7km to the northern start point of GPT21.

*Return from Finish

Northbound:
The ferry to Puerto Buey leaves right from the beach every day except Tuesday and Saturday, and costs 200 CLP as previously written. It leaves around 7-8 am and probably some other times as well, we took it Friday at 14 and we saw it leaving twice in the evening Thursday. The bus left from Puerto Buey (the shed where you get dropped of by the ferry) directly to Osorno at 15:30. We were told that the morning ferry matches a bus that only goes to Puerto Octay, but there are more busses from there.

=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=

=Links to other Resources=

Retired Section Article [[GPT21 - Lago Todos Los Santos]]

=Images=

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[[category:Greater Patagonian Trail]]