GPT37H (Peninsula La Florida)

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Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions

Season 2023/24

• 2024-03-05 to 2024-03-15 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR west traverse to Bahia Pescado / Maggie & Julian

Trail attractiveness 5/5, Difficulty 3/5

Day 1: Ferry {37H} [7.6/269] (Puerto Bahmondez) to (-48.6326, -72.6078):

We organized a ride to the end of the Carretera Austral the evening before. The trail up the first pass was for the most part easy to locate and follow. On the way down we had to be more alert not to lose the trail. We camped on the beach by Laguna Verde at (-48.6326, -72.6078). A little wind exposed, but not too terrible the night we slept there.

Day 2: (-48.6326, -72.6078) to Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931]:

The area right before the Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) was gorgeous but too windy and cold to stay for long. Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] has a wooden wind barrier and is in a forested area. It also features a beautiful view down to Lago O’Higgins. The last water source before the camp was at (-48.6410, -72.7160) near the pass.

Day 3: Camp Without Water {37H} [39.7/931] to Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe):

This day had a long section of relatively easy cross-country descent. It still took us a bit longer than anticipated. We really liked the protected lakeside campsite and decided to end our day earlier, camp there and go for a swim.

Day 4: Camp {37H} [48.6/262] (Arrollo Derrumbe) to Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy):

At (-48.7103, -72.7526) we found a newly constructed gate. It wasn’t built to be easily opened, but we could slip through the space between two trees. At first, it didn’t look like there was anyone at Puesto {37H} [59.2/274] (Bahia Once Hermanos, Don Cocho), but when we looked back after walking by, we saw a dog near the house. Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) is not a great option on windy AND rainy days. A lot of spots are rather exposed to the wind or in danger of flooding in heavier rain. (-48.8127, -72.7170) is a decent spot if it is dry.

Day 5: Camp {37H} [66.0/343] (Vista Fitzroy) to Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael):

Depending on the water level of Lago O’Higgins, Variant H to Nicole and Misael could be difficult to follow. Is this the case, take a path a little higher up on the RR and then traverse over. We had very strong winds in Bahia Pescado our first night and unfortunately, the camping spot was not really protected from it.

Notes:

- We found Nicole and Misael to be incredibly welcoming hosts. We had such a good time, and they could use some help around the house, so we ended up taking the boat a few days later than planned. The ticket for the ferry was easily transferred to a later time, although this might not be the case in high season. On the other hand, the weather turned bad right after our decision to stay, and it was unclear if we would be stuck for a while.

- Based on reports from yr.no and windy, we expected decent amounts of rain every day. However, to our surprise, we received only light showers a few times throughout the 5 days. Our InReach weather reports also seemed unreliable in this area. According to Misael, the southern Peninsula tends to have better weather than Villa O’Higgins.

• 2024-Feb-19 to 2024-Feb-23 / 5d / Hiking / SOBO / West Traverse / Andrew

This was a very challenging but rewarding section. A couple notes on logistics: The day before I left I arranged the ferry to pick me up from Bahia Pescado on February 24th to take me to Candelaria Mancilla. I also left a backpack with some extra food and possessions at the ferry office for them to bring on the ferry. Nicole and Miseal have starlink wifi, so it's easy to confirm the pickup details with the ferry once you get there. If you are traveling SOBO and don't have time for the full trek, this is the route I would recommend taking.

Day 1:

I started walking towards Puerto Bahmondes in the morning, nice views for a road walk. Got past the hydro station without any trouble, there were some workers on the dam but they didn't pay me any notice. Being my first truly wild hike on the GPT, this was definitely harder mentally and I lost the trail a few times. I got well off trail on one of the fords where I tried to find an easier crossing. Pro: found a big patch of calefate with plenty of ripe Berries. Con: had to bash a way through them and some mud to get back to the trail. Would just recommend crossing closer to the RR.

Going over the pass was physically exhausting, but I made it over and camped near the ford at km 18.4. The first camp after the pass is viable, but I decided to hike a bit further to the ford to camp somewhere a bit more sheltered.

Day 2:

Nice forest walking, lost the path a couple times but made it through. First ford was dry, but after I got stuck in a swamp and couldn't find a good path around so I just went through. Walked through the next ford, to clean my shoes and socks. This ford was shallow and an easy crossing. The 3rd ford was the most difficult, deeper water and more current.

I wasn't able to find the path at the northern terminus of the lake, but I walked parallel through the forest until I could join the well marked trail. There were a couple nice camping spots in the corrals near the lake. I stopped for a break but decided to push onwards to get a bit more distance because I wanted to camp near lago o'higgins the next day.

First ford was easy, 2nd ford was more difficult. Lots of burrs along the way. Camped in the forest across the ford at km 31.7, although I think there was a nicer spot before the ford.

Day 3:

Walked through the dead forest, and after a short period of time I found a visible trail.

I would recommend staying to the south of the creek as you approach the pass, impassable brush on the North side

Lost the trail near the ford (km38.9) before the pass, and had to push though some brush. The trail gets swampy approaching the pass. Stunning views appear over the pass, this view is a highlight of the GPT.

After the pass there's a steep descent through the forest and the long cross country parts were challenging and exhausting. I camped near the shore of Lago O'Higgins in a sheltered clearing (Arrollo Derrumbe km48.6) - the only water I could find was the lake which was a bit tricky in the high winds.

Day 4:

I came across a gate that I marked on my GPS tracks. Don't trust the easy trail after gate, you will need to divert left. Amazing views continued despite an hour of heavy rain. Camped just after the ford at km63.6. Both before and after the ford had viable campsites, but lots of cows and cow patties around. Note that if you camp after the ford you will need to duck through the gate in order to get water.

Day 5:

My last day was a short hike to Nicole and Miseal's house. We had a lovely time there before catching the ferry the next morning. I shared a delicious meal with them and two of their visiting friends, and bought some excellent bread.

• 2024-Feb-10 to 2024-Feb-16 / 7d / Hiking / Travel Direction (SOBO) / OH-37H-01, OH-37H-09, new Trail, OH-37H-01A, OH-37-A (not existing anymore), RH, RR, OH-37H-K / Tom

I startet for 10 days with food for 12 days. I wanted to verify a few not yet verified OHs and EXP. Due to a little accident at RR km 96 I returned earlier as planned.

On day one I climbed Cierro Alta Vista. The junction to OH-CC&TL-A was easy to find. The track was not that accurate and you will find some better options by visual decisions. At 920m when the bush changes to wood go 30m west to the ledge and climb further up. 2-3 short sections where you use your hands, watch your steps especially with heavy backpacks. I pitched the tent near the small laguna on 1220m.

The next day was on new terrain straight to the west ridge of cierro Altavista. I didn't do the peak due to snow fall and heavy winds. Then downhill to pass 37H-01A 2.7/822. That's very demanding in snowy/rainy conditions and the pass is hard to approach through the bushes. I don't know If ever a person did this section.

The following OH-TL-V 37H-01A EBO is easy going but sometimes the track differs from the gps track. OH-37_A is completely owergrown and not visible anymore. I went further east back on RH and climbed the pass.

Ford 1 in the Laguna Verde Valley offers a log 50m upstream, ford 2 dry, ford 3 knee deep. Some 50m I hiked in the river since the shore was gone. RH to laguna Verde is not anymore the best option. Following the river (OH) and the horse tracks is easier. Pitched at 29.3 in the old corral.

I couldn't cross Rio San Martin due to heavy winds and strong current and decided to go back to OH and follow it SEBO towards Bahia San Martin on OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. After a quick glance and seeing all the logs I changed my mind and went to RR. I followed RR-TL-I {37H} [117.0/104.5+0.2] resp tried to. Go 40m north and find a decent trail that connects to RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] . I consider this A as a V. The challenge starts right after the RR-TL-I {37H} [115.4/102.9+0.9]. This is not anymore TL, it’s BB or swim (the track leads into the river). I was stuck in the bush 5m over the riverbed. Somehow I could escape straight uphill onto OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8]. (500m/h) was my pace :)

Right after the river crossing on east cost, the track pointed into the lago. I didn’t want to swim and decided to follow an huge animal path into the mountains. The worst decision on this day! Iended up in the rocks and stuck again (this was a bit scary) eventually after another 1.5 hours I was at the starting point, bleeding and exhausted. I decided to stay here. The goal was far away, a little behind rio Aro to do some Aro valley investigation the next day.

I changed my plans since my ankle was a little sprained and went back to Laguna Verde to find an appropriate alternative to RR where I was stuck in the bush the day before. I could verify a few trails. RR from this side towards towards the puesto is existing until the ford, but not much further downstream. The river ate 100-150m of RR. There is also a second ford closer to the puesto. The puesto was unmanned. OH-TL-I 37H-M from the puesto to west shore of rio San Martin is easy going.

At the end of the curve of RR-CC-A {37H} [116.3/103.8+0.7] I found a new connection. Turn exactly east CC for 60m , you’ll hit a not yet known connection trail to OH-TL&CC-V {37H-K} [0.0+1.8] . If coming from east coast pass the connection and keep to the right when TL splits 200 m off shore. You’ll end at the viejo corral.

On pass Portezuelo el Roce (RR-TL-V 111.7/948) I tried to climb the mountain SW of the pass. Unfortunately I couln'd find a pass through be woods behind the rock band. I tried the peak on the other side of the pass and made it to the top 1km S of the pass. All easy CC in loose rocks. Outstanding view from Laguna Verde to Villa O'Higgins and almost to Candelaria Mancilla.

• 2024-Mar-25 to 2024-Mar-27 / 2.5 days hiking + 2.5 days waiting/ Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse + OH G + H / Joscha

I combined Section 37, 38 and 39. It took me 10.5 days including 2.5 days waiting at Bahia Pescado for the ferry. I left a bag with food in Villa O'Higgins which the ferry brought me. And I could store food at the chilenian Border station. Therefore I never had to cary food for more than 5 days.

Day 1: RR [0.0-29.3]

I started hiking in Villa O'Higgins and got a hitch after about 2 km to Bahia Bahmondez. There was plenty of water all along the trail. The pass at km 15 was snow free. The ford at 21.6 was hard. At 4 pm the water was just below my crotch (I am 192 cm tall) and the current pretty strong. The RR along Laguna Verde is at times flooded by the Laguna.

Day 2: RR [29.3-48.6]

Plenty of water. Fords are max. knee hight. I really liked the camp at 48.6.

Day 3: RR [48.6-62.9] + OH37H-G + RR [63.5-69.1] + OH37H-H

Lots of Water and easy ford. I didn't see a puesto at km 53.2. Only some wood fences. I arrived at the House from Nicole and Misael in the afternoon. They were very friendly and welcoming. Originally I had planed to take the ferry on the next day, but due to bad weather it was delayed for two days. I spend those days with the family and they fed me completely for the two days. I paid her 30000 Pesos per day.

• 24-Feb-28 to 2024-Mar-2 / 48 hours and a day of waiting / Hiking / SOBO / RR, West Traverse/ Tomáš

I arrived to Villa O'Higgins on a Tuesday evening. The forecast was dire so I wanted to skip the Florida peninsula but before I got my head around it, it was midnight. I stayed in Hostal Moscou, nobody there wanted to cross (a group of cyclist arrived from the ferry at 23:00, the boat waited for a late crossing back) or knew when the next boat would go, I tried whatsapping both companies but they did not respond. In the morning, I went to Rueda office to find out that the boat left at 7:00 and the next one would not go until Saturday, so I decided to do the West Traverse and hop on the ferry on Saturday from Bahia Pescada. Rueda won't reply to whatsapp outside office hours (9-13 and 14-21 I think) - they run it from the computer in their office. The other company replied back only in the afternoon. So if you are in a real hurry out of main season, turning up in the port really early would have worked, the boat apparently had 6 seats unoccupied. It was very easy to arrange to be picked from Bahia Pescada, I left the company a bag with stuff they then brought me. I paid them the full amount of 55,000 in cash, in retrospect I should have tried to negotiate it down (but they need to make a small detour to pick me up, so I might not have been succesful).

I got lucky to get a hitch around 13:00 one km out of town; the port seems to be a minor tourist attraction in itself. The route thereafter is indeed mostly cross country (trails much less clear than on GPT36 and TL&CC combinations tend to be on the CC side) and is indeed quite scenic. The missed boat turned out to be a blessing as I only got some clouds high up and then sun instead of the forecasted fog and some rain. I was later told the peninsula gets better weather than Villa O'Higgins, especially in its southern part (it also seems anything that is not heavy rain is a good forecast here). Ford at 19.8 was dry. Fords at 20.6 and 21.6 should be Fords Start/End, you follow a riverbed with a river. After that, you still follow a riverbed, but without a river, which found a new course to your right. These fords and the one at 30.2 were the only ones that I could not jump or go over on stones or logs. Lake was low at the end of summer and I just mostly followed the beach. Slept at the corral at 29.3.

CC&TL from 31.5 is again a riverbed, I kept the river to my left most of the time until I could cross it on a log. I did not find anything I would call a trail until the pass. Either I am blind or gate 45.4 does not exist. Ford 45.6 is annoying as it is about 20m-long strech of flooded trail that is overgrown, ankle deep though (and the stream is very bushy, you won't find a better way, I tried). Met two GPT hikers at camp 48.6 - very nice camp. The forecast was for heavy rain the next afternoon, so I pushed almost to puesto at 59.2, sleeping on a green flat about 0.5 km before it. It was a windy night despite finding a seemingly sheltered spot. It would have been better by the lake; near the puesto at Once Hermanos would have been perfect if it was not mostly occupied.

I got up with sunrise and started towards Bahia Pescado. The morning had better weather than expected, even with sun, so I ate breakfast for an hour and arrived around noon, just as the rain started. The family was there, I was invited inside, where it is dry, warm and with superfast internet, Starlink is wow! I was complimented on my Spanish as opposed to other GPT hikers, which was unexpected, I am like A2 and I thought everybody else is almost fluent! I managed to have a conversation for three hours though, even about the merits of various political systems. It was indeed very nice. It rained heavily on and off well into the night (snowed from 1000m up), so I slept on the floor. I was given lunch, a pie in the evening and one piece of bread (about 300g - I bought 2 more for 3000 each). I offered 20,000. I thought vegetable would be included too, but in the morning it was early and Nicole was not up so I did not get any, even though we talked about it the night before. She said she struggles with pricing. My advice is to probably deal with the business side of the visit early on and completely before darkness comes (I am not complaining though, it was lovely). Nicole said that since last year, more people are coming - I signed into a book and saw many familiar names from here, about 25 people in about 12 groups altogether! It seems most people actualy do write into the wiki, I always thought most did not. She said that she does not want it to become too popular, but the current level is fine and the money comes handy (I also think especially she enjoys company).

In the morning, I was told the day before to be ready at 7:45 through whatsapp, but the boat only came an hour later. Apparently it was not much delayed in Villa O'Higgins, not sure why the discrepancy. Luckily I could wait inside, the view for the boat is perfect.

Overall, the peninsula is really attractive. I actually preferred the inside of it, going along the coast was a bit too long. Also the trails are not in great condition, I often lost them and walked cross country. Nicole and Michel do not have many cattle and I think they do not need the trails to be perfect. I am glad I did not skip this section.

• 2024-feb-20/ 5,5days / hiking / Full loop west - east/ RR / Lukas en Tess ; Nolwenn and Yannick (first half)

This is an incredible hike, (like most but still, doesn't get old!) Beautiful views, great camping spots and awesome people! Very demanding because of cross country and overgrown vegetation. (Not bushbashing but sometimes not far from it)

Some recomendations:

-The view from the pass [39,3] is amazing and so is the route all the way down. If you only do half do this side! -At the puesto {37H-E} km 69,2, this is where you would wait for the ferry. A young family that is very welcoming. Nicole makes super delicious bread and sells some vegetables. We payed for 4 people 15.000 for the salad, 18.000 for the bread and if you would camp there it would be 7.000 pp. She also sells essential oils made from herbs and flowers out of the mountains around, ask her, its awesome! -camp close to the beach, camp [78,1], best spot for a campfire we ever had. IF the weather allows and there isn't too much wind offcourse. -puesto [84,1], is more like a Refuge. Guillermo is one of the most hospitable people we have met on the gpt, he is not always there but he leaves the puesto open for passerbys. If he's home you are in luck we where there early in the morning and before we knew it we had our pockets full of candy and cookies, a cup of hot milk, some rice porridge and some dried meat. If he is not there feel free to use the stove, wood and utensils even the bed is to your disposal. He told us it's his family's tradition to keep an open door. If you happen to pass by leave him a letter or a note of appreciation, I'm sure that would make him very happy. -Refuge [88,5] is noting much but it's still there and you could hide from the elements if necessary.

Plenty of water everywhere on the trail.

Fords where no problem this time of year but we heard ford [89,9] is the one to be weary of.

The waterlevel of the lake was really high at the end of summer and that caused problems crossing of the sandbanks on [69,4] and [96,1] the first we past with the boat of Nicole's husband, the second you can go around but...

DON'T RECOMMEND, because of going around the lake on km [96,1] we started folowing a trail that brought us on the south side of the river but it's imposible to cross because it's a huge canyon. We decided to stay on this side instead of turning back but the smal cow paths disappear and you end up bushbashing your way through. On top of that, there are some canyons that are perpendicular to the main river and the only way of crossing those is going a long way up. In the end we managed and it was an adventure, gave us a glimpse into what Jan has been doing all these years ;p

• 2023-Dec-30 to 2024-Jan-02 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Stiina & Kris

We did the west traverse of the Florida Peninsula and definitely recommemd it to anyone, whether nobo or sobo. We prearranged the ferry to pick us up from Bahia Pescado, which meant we had ample time for the 68 kilometers. In all honesty - we expected much more difficulties and bushbashing but the route was surprisingly nice and straightforward.

We were lucky with great weather throughout, albeit some strong winds. We got no hitch out of Villa O'Higgins and thus did the whole roadwalk. The trail up the first pass was steep but easy to follow, views from the pass were magnificent. The snowpatches were not an issue. In the forest before the lake there was a lot of fallen trees, so extra time & effort was spent on climbing over them...then lots of soft sandy beachwalking + walking in the freezing cold lake as the "trail" was under water. The way up to the second pass was gradual and easy, the pass itself was swampy. Great views on the other side, too.

The way down starts with an easy to follow trail, then it sort of disappears (or, rather, there are very many to choose from) and you gotta make your way down to the coast. Some bushbashing involved here but not much. The rest of the coastal walk offers great views and lots of smaller climbs, but is generally easy to follow. The worst section is the last 11 kilometers between Bahia Once Hermanos and Bahia Bescado - the trail keeps disappearing and there is a lot of bushbashing, which for those in shorts is very painful. The settler family is amazingly welcoming, allowed us to camp up behind their house and had us over for dinner. We purchased some fresh bread and salad material from them. The ferry picked us up early the next morning right by the house.

• 2023-Dec-22 to 2023-Dec-30 / 8.5 days / full 8 circuit / Villa O'Higgins - Villa O'Higgins / RR/ Alex & Christophe

This wasn't an easy hike but totally worth it!

The best landscape was, for us, the west part of the panorama trail (along Lago O'Higgins) but it was also a challenging part with a lot of bushes and up and down. The trail was although more difficult to find and more bushy than in the east part of the panorama trail.

There was still a lot of snow at Pass {37H} [15.0/1159] (Portezuelo Los Corrales) but it was easy to walk and navigate with a nice weather.

The Lake {37H} [24.4/548] (Lago Verde) was a bit high so you have to walk sometimes in the lake but it isn't a problem. It's way better to have the feet wet and cold than trying to go through the bushes.

We met the family Settler {37H-H} [4.5/264] (Bahia Pescado, Nicole and Misael) and it was a fantastic experience. We had maté and then bought them some vegetables for lunch. Be sure to visit them and to have some time for a little break with them!

For the 3 major fords, according to the advice of Misael we crossed Ford {37H} [79.0/520] (Cascada) early in the morning (at 6:30 AM) to be sure it was passable. We crossed Ford {37H} [89.8/259] (Rio Aro) in the early afternoon on a sunny day and it wasn't a good idea. The water isn't really clear and it's hard to find how deep it is. We manage to cross it but I (Christophe, 1.74m) was wet up to my hips. We also crossed Ford {37H} [96.6/255] (Rio San Martin) in the morning (7:30 AM) the next day close to the lake and it was ok (water up to mid-thigh and strong current).

On the second Pass {37H} [39.3/1006] (Canadon los Patos) and last Pass {37H} [111.7/948] (Portezuelo el Roce), it was quite swampy. Just put your fording shoes if you have some and don't try to keep your feet dry.

All in all, it was a fantastic adventurous section!

• 2023-12-14 to 18: Fangwen and Tobi / 5 days (4 hiking) / NOBO / West traverse (Bahia Pescado to Villa O'Higgins).

This trip featured great views and a real feeling of adventure, but for us, it was also a challenging trip that brought us to our limits. The GPT manual already has lots of details, so we will mostly focus on our personal experience and some logistical aspects.

As far as we know, after Jan&Meylin and Jess&Paco last season, we are the first GPT hikers to explore the Florida peninsula in this new GPT section (previously, GPT 37H was just taking the ferry between Candelario Mansilla and Villa O'Higgins).

Day 1: we took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla to Bahia Pescado in the morning. There, we met the lovely family of Nicole, Misael and their three year old son, Facundo. We had a great time with them, and they were delighted to have visitors (the last visitors having passed half a year earlier). If you have the chance to spend a full day with them, we strongly recommend this, as it was a section highlight. We slept on their floor for the night.

Day 2: we started hiking just before noon, and camped at a wind-sheltered location at around km57.

Day 3: we hiked to the trailhead (km 54.8, beginning of the CC eastbound ascent to Canadon los Patos), and despite it being 6pm already, decided to push onwards towards the pass. Unfortunately, we took a bad route (hiking uphill first and then traversing in steep terrain) and had to turn around to spend the night at the trailhead.

Day 4: We started early with the hike up to the pass: this time, following the easier option of first traversing in the mellow terrain, and start going uphill only when we were already close to the pass. This worked much better, despite having to navigate between some cliffs on our way up. On the other side of the pass, we went on via some muddy swamps and river beds to stay at the camp km29.3 by the beautiful Laguna Verde -- a wonderful location for a camp and a highlight of the trip.

Day 5: we woke up early to make it to Villa O'Higgins in one day. The terrain was comparatively easy to walk on for the whole day. Before the pass (Portezuelo Los Corrales) there were some snow fields, some of which required some creative rerouting. To our great relief, the steep descent on the north side of the pass was entirely snow free. The rest of the trip was relatively easy walking. After 25km of hiking we reached Puerto Bahmondez. Half-way to Villa O'Higgins a car passed us and we were able to hitchhike.

Difficulties: as mentioned, this trip was quite challenging for us, despite the excellent conditions and our years of backcountry experience. In retrospect, this is something that probably many GPT hikers experience when they go on their first "wild" GPT section and find out what is considered a "trail" on the GPT. Technically, there were no substantial challenges for us. The river crossings were all at most knee deep, thanks to the good weather. (Also note that in bad weather, some of our campsites might be flooded). But the progress from Bahia Pescado to the first pass (Canadon los Patos) was frustratingly slow at times, since the trail was frequently overgrown with bushes (sometimes thorny ones), or covered in mud / water, or difficult to recognize such that we lost the trail and had to backtrack or bushwhack our way back to the trail. Psychologically, this was a tough experience for us. The crux of the trip was the CC section on the west side of Canadon los Patos. This 1.7km straight section took us almost two hours. After the pass, conditions were generally easier, progress faster and the terrain and views changed more often, which made hiking much more enjoyable. The last day, despite consisting of 28km of hiking almost felt easier than the previous days, as the terrain was easier to traverse than the overgrown trails along the coast of Lago O'Higgins.

We can definitely recommend 37H, but hikers unfamiliar with overgrown trails should be aware of the physical and mental challenge that the terrain poses.

Logistics: We combined sections 38 and 37 on our NOBO trip. For the (resupply) logistics regarding section 38, see our trip report on that wiki page. We took the ferry from Candelario Mansilla heading to Villa O'Higgins, but we asked to be dropped off at Bahia Pescado (start of the West part of GPT 37). The ferry company (WhatsApp +56 9 6627 8836, https://www.turismoruedasdelapatagonia.cl) charged us 30.000 per person instead of the 50 or 60.000 (?) to Villa O'Higgins. We gave the captain a bag of extra food and belongings to be picked up in Villa O'Higgins after the section 37 hike. This worked out without problem (the company has apartments there, so pickup should be possible any time of the week). If you can, get in touch with Nicole ahead of time, her full name is in the GPT manual, and with that you can find her Facebook account. If you don't want to walk on the road the last 7km from Puerto Bahmondez to Villa O'Higgins, you can either try to hitchhike (cars were infrequent but the first one we tried took us) or arrange for a taxi with Roberto (WhatsApp +56 9 8193 5236). There is some cellphone reception at Puerto Bahmondez. Ricardo in Candelario Mansilla should have some internet connectivity. Nicole's family recently got Starlink satellite internet, which works really well (better than in El Chalten and Villa O'Higgins). You can also charge your devices with them.

Season 2022/23

• 2023-Mar-23-29 / 7 day / Hiking / NOBO / Candelario Mancilla to Villa O Higgins / Jess&Paco

We crossed the lago O Higgins the 23 after only one day waiting. It seems the only company still making transfer at that season (and until ebd of april) is Las Ruedas. As said below the cost is 60000 pesos including the car transfer from Bahia Bahamondez toVilla OHiggins. In el Chalten they told us we could have a 5000 pesos discount if paying cash but it seems that Las Ruedas policies changed. There is only 16 (maybe 17 if a couple gets separated) places on the boat. The crossing last 2h if the weather is good. They usually come to Candelario Mancilla mondays and thursday but it changes a lot with the weather. You get in the boat by order of registration at the border control. So no need to hurry or worry. There will be no competition between passengers to board. And everyone is very friendly and naturally respects order of arrivals Camping at Candelario Mancilla costs 5000. You cannot ressuply but Ricardo has some eggs and bread so you can extend your supplies for a few days.

After the settler at km 69, you have to ford between the lake O Higgins and a small inner lagoon. We werent able to pass because of water depth. It seems part of the beach have disappeared at that season. We add to climb and make a detour around the small lagoon. There are some animal trails to lead you.

Km 90 demanding Ford n°2 The refuge is closed and locked and you have to pass an unreferenced barrier to follow GPT track and get to the refuge. We advice to cross just after reaching the beach after the refuge. If you dont you have to pass by a gravelled/sandy slope that will make your ankles suffer. Km 96 demanding ford n°3 Before reaching the Ford we couldn't follow the GPT main track because it was completely flooded. So we add to follow the beach. But rocky shore makes some passes dangerous so we advice to climb just a little above the shore you will find animal trails that eventually get a few dozen meters above the river. Then you can ford but be carefull there is a lot of water and current. Fording at the extreme end of the river is also difficult because even if there is not much current, water depth can prevent you from crossing depending on the weather and the hour of the day. It was a really rainy day and we crossed at 12 approximatly.

• 2023-Mar-04 / 1 day / RR / SOBO / RR / Villa O’Higgins - Candelario Mansilla by ferry / Ondrej

Had to wait for the boat for two days, most people I met there waited for 3-5 days. Two companies seem to be currently operating in the area: Las Ruedas (whatsapp: +56 9 6627 8836) and a guy named Pascual (+56 9 4296 4723) with his daughter Javier (+56 9 4403 6006). Both companies currently charge 60,000 CLP for the boat transfer. Las Ruedas has a faster boat and the ticket price includes a car transfer from O’Higgins to Puerto Bahamondes. With the other company, one has to pay 5 or 6,000 for the transport to the port.

When staying in the town, I was told that during the high season, it is best to whatsapp the companies a week in advance and reserve a spot to cut the waiting period. Otherwise, I suggest to go to their offices and add yourself to a waiting list as soon as you arrive. It is possible to drop in to their offices regularly to see if some people dropped of the waiting list and you can travel earlier (happened in my case).

Overall, Villa O’Higgins is a lovely place to rest and resupply while waiting for the boat. If you can bear the rain. I stayed at Hostal El Mosco - really nice and lively place. You’re going to meet mostly other travellers waiting for the boat too. The place has hot showers virtually all the time and a beautiful kitchen area. Camping is 9,000 CLP per night - bit on the pricy side but you can use all the hostel facilities such as kitchen and indoor showers. They also offer dorm and private rooms.

I found the Cordillera supermarket to be the best place for resupplying. They also sell camping canisters. The wifi is generally bad in the town apart from some companies that have a starlink connection. You can get such fast wifi for free from Copec gas station.

• 2023-Feb-25 / 1 day / SOBO / Will

Getting the ferry wasn't really feasible when I was there. I was pretty far back on the waiting list, and conditions were nearly always too bad to sail. A few did make it across (they later told me it was pretty scary) but the rest of us gave up and bussed out. Thankfully I only spent the days there. Took 3.5 days to bus back up to Chile Chico and then down through Argentina.

Raining every day in Villa o Higgins.

• 2023-Feb-13 / SOBO / Véronica & Zach

Waited in Villa O'Higgins for 5 days for the ferry, due to strong winds and rain. There are two ferry companies — one is Las Ruedas de la Patagonia which operates on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday if the weather is good. If the weather is bad, then the boat crossing may happen anytime there is a good weather window. They can take 16 passengers. The other company is very small and operates very infrequently, since they can only take 8 people at a time and require a longer weather window because their boat is slower. Both companies charge 60,000 clp per person. We recommend reserving AND paying for your ferry ticket as soon as you arrive in town. People who only reserve and don't pay are subject to being pushed off the passenger list if other people come and offer to pay beforehand.

• 2023-Jan-18 to 2023-Jan-21 / 3.5 days / West Traverse / Iris, Alexis

We were able to get a boat ride to Bahia Pescado by asking Rudeas de Patagonia. We came at the end of the day and they sold us some remaining seats at a fair price (50k for 2). Earlier in the day, the price was 60k each.

When arriving at Bahia Pescado, we had difficulties to find the trail and struggled in the first ascent. We pitched the tent at Water {37H} [56.7/408]. The view all along and at the spot is stunning.

On the second day, the ascent through RH-CC-A {37H} [5.6/48.0+0.5] was tough because it was really hot and the path we found was in rocky former river stream.

Then, RR-CC-A {37H} [39.9/40.7+1.7] is even harder when going up. We suggest to continue to follow the shore a bit and going up straight instead of trying to do both at the same time. It looked easier when above. We camped at Camp {37H} [36.5/776] but we did not find water nearby.

Third day was without any specificities except gorgeous landscapes and scenic views. Of note, Camp {37H} [114.9/268] is probably not available for the season as it is occupied by a dead cow. We found a suitable pitch a bit further on the beach (in an old corral).

The return to Bahia Bahamondes was straight forward. The beginning of the trail is easily lost and we checked our GPS quite often. Then, the trail is visible and beautiful. We were lucky to find a ride to Villa O'Higgins at the port and did not walk the last 7 kilometers.

Overall, we struggled a bit but had no real difficulties. The weather was excellent (even a bit too hot) and the rivers crossable easily. This hike was super beautiful and diverse. Also, we met nobody on the trail and it was really pleasant to feel diving into barely frequented nature.

• 2023-Jan-07 to 2023-Jan-07 / 6 days / GPT37P(H): Peninsula La Florida. Full "8" route and side hikes (to Cerro Tres Frailes) / Clockwise / Alex Abramov

179 km, Solo.

An excellent route ranked in my top five favorites in Chile. Very scenic, varied, secluded, a real gem. In general, there are no problems with water or camps. Not particularly difficult, but the route has at least two quite demanding fords and many sections with complicated navigation and annoying thorny bushes (I always use my running shoes).

My choice of direction, clockwise, is due to trying challenging fords first.

I am somewhat skeptical about the length of the track by Jan, the discoverer of the area, I believe that the real classic “8” will be closer to 150 km Crossing the Aro(s) River requires a lot of care, especially when passing alone. It can be extremely dangerous or impassable in the early season, I put some useful tips in the comment on the FB post.

• 2022-Dec / SOBO / Yannic & Mirjam

We had to wait 8 days in O'Higgens because the ferry was postponed twice due to wind and the waiting list grew.

Currently, there is only one operator (Las Ruedas). It is best to contact them early via Whatsapp and reserve a ticket.

You can also drop by spontaneously the evening before departure. If someone has not paid, tickets will become available at short notice...

Season 2021/22

• 2022-Mar-06 / 3.5 days / 37P: Península La Florida / Tobias Schorcht, Jonas Grünewald and Martin

Thank you Jan, for sending us your GPS-Trackfiles right on time. It would have been quite difficult, to make our way over the península without them, because there are numerous good visible cow trails around! We booked a “O’Higgins Glaciar Tour” (120000 Pesos p.P) and asked the captain (Markus), to drop us on our way back at Punta Pescado, where the settlers Nicole, Misael and there little son are living. They were happy to receive some fresh fruits and vegetables and invited us for lunch. Nicole and Misael are warm and welcoming people. We left in the afternoon and made our way to “los hermanos” where we camped. The settler who is living there, was not at home. Surprisingly, the weather was much better then expected. Locals told us, it’s always warmer (“up to 4 degrees”) and less rainy up here. We had no problems with navigation on our way back to Villa. There were no dangerous river crossings and numerous of potential camping spots. The views on the Lago O’Higgins and the near by mountains have been spectacular. We suggest to use gaiters, to avoid scratches of the sticky bushes. All in all, we recommend this hike!

Season 2019/20

• NOTE: Previously, this section has been only the ferry crossin, some time between 2020 and 2022, the new route across Peninsula Florida was added. The logs below are just for the ferry.

• 2020-Jan / NOBO / Oreste Marquis

I only had to wait for 2 days before the boat came, but some people waited 5! Bought my tickets in advance at Glaciares Expedicion if my memory is right. Book the trip for the two boat (Lago del Desierto and to Villa O’Higgins). I don’t recommend to book the one on Lago del desierto because it is actually super expensive (60 US$) and you can walk it pretty easily.

• 2020-Jan / NOBO / Olrik

Bought the boat tickets in El Chalten. There are 2 options, Zona Austral which works with Ruedas de la Patagonia, and Expeditiones which works with Robinson Crusoe. Ruedas is cheaper, 54USD pp. Boat is just smaller. You can end up stuck for a long time in Candelario Mancilla so plan enough food. The only option is the paid campground which is 5000CLP. The carbineros will kick you out and redirect you to the campground. I would recommend to buy the boat ticket in advance as those with no tickets are not first when the boat comes. Transfer is 1h30.

• 2019-Dec / NOBO / Matthieu

The official schedule is Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, From Villa to Candelario in the morning and back in the afternoon. But it is extremely dependant on the weather conditions, so it can actually be every days and every hours.

I waited three days in Candelario. Mandatory to take the camping there (5000 CLP per days, possibility to pay by card after leaving the camping with the capitan of the boat La Rueda, who is a friend of the camping owners). Take some food with you to spend a few days there, because there is litterally nothing. Possibility to buy eggs and bread from the woman of the camping. I personally had a good time there, making good fires for hot shower and cooking.

For the prices of the boat, I personally paid 35 000 with Ruedas, and I saw only two boats (Robinson Crusoe too). I would recommend NOT to take tickets from companies in El Chalten which sell them very expensive, sometimes double. You can buy it directly at the boat, possibility by card. There is 16 places on each boat, so 32 for my crossing. My boat was almost empty after 4 days of no passage, so no stress.

• 2020-Jan-10 / Lago O‘Higgins Motor Boat Crossing / Jan Dudeck

Currently 3 companies offer motor boat crossings of Lago O‘Higgins between Villa O‘Higgins and Candelario Mansilla. Prices for a crossing without a visit of Glacier O‘Higgins range from 36‘000 to 45‘000 CLP. These companies are: 1. RobinsonCrusoe (biggest and most expensive) 2. La Rueda 3. ???

Like in past years technical issues with the boats and weather (primarily wind) disrupt schedule departures and limit the capacity. This results in significant waiting times in both directions. Waiting 1 to 4 days is common but some people had to wait up to one week to get a seat in a boat. The biggest boat - La Quetru - is currently out of operation due to a motor damage.

Recommendations:

Be patient and don’t plan with a tight schedule if intending to cross the border between Villa O’Higgins and El Chalten

Southbound travelers can wait in Villa O‘Higgins where food is available and can be paid with credit cards. But enough cash should be carried as the next ATM is in Cochrane, a 6 hour drive north of Villa O’Higgins.

Northbound travelers should carry enough food and cash to wait several days in Candelario Mansilla. Only basic food can be purchased in Candelario Mansilla (Cash only). Consider purchasing a ferry ticket in advance in El Chalten.

Alternatively TAS offers occasionally flights for 70’000 CLP between an airfield next to the border and Villa O’Higgins.

• 2019-Dec-11 / SOBO / Arnaud et Adriane

Be aware that you will maybe have to wait the ferry in Villa O'Higgins. It is very dependant on the weather conditions. We had to wait 4 days.

It was good to have a real rest after the section 36 and Villa O'Highins is a very quiet and nice village with many walks around if you still have energy.

We stayed at the Mosco hostel who has rooms, dorms and camping and the welcome and attention of the team there is perfect.

Only 2 companies offer the crossing of the lake. With robinson crusoe, it costs 45000clp/pers and the trip is 1h30 long. With La Rueda, it costs 40000clp/pers and it is 2h30 long.

• 2019-Nov-11 / 1 day / NOBO / Ferry ride / Lea Geibel, Kevin Moe

There's two different ferry companies. We were told in El Chaltén that it runs every Saturday, Monday, and Wednesday 3 times a day, at 11:00, 14:00, and 19:00. Cost is $50 USD, can pay with card. We took the other ferry company (Robinson Crusoe) because it showed up at 10:30 and told us the winds were rising so the first company might not be coming. They charged us $47,500CP each at the yurt in Villa O'Higgins.

Season 2017/18

• Route description by Kara Davis after Season 2017/18 /uitk:

There are a couple of options to consider for transportation across O’Higgins/San Martin Lake. There is a large ferry which is the primary option for transport when it is functioning. The second option is a smaller ferry run by Marco Campo. This was the only option during the 2017/2018 season because the main ferry had broken down. Marco Campo frequently caused hikers difficulties for several reasons: the ferry only runs a few days a week; the ferry only seats around 15 people and is in high demand since crossing the lake is a part of the Carretera Austral; the waiting list is long and it was not uncommon for travelers to spend several days in Villa O’Higgins waiting for a seat; it does not run when the wind is strong so last minute cancellations were frequent; it’s expensive (~45.000CLP). If possible, try and make arrangements beforehand or be prepared to wait for several days in a primarily cash-functioning town without an ATM.

Comment by Jan Dudeck: Once the big ferry is repaired crossing the lake should be easier. The big ferry carries up to 100 passangers. Advance reservation is anyway recommended. If you are lucky enough to get spot on the ferry, board your ship at Puerto Bahamóndez. Marco Campos offers a shuttle from Villa O’Higgins for a price or you can road walk ~5 km. The ferry ride across Lago O’Higgins is notorious for being pretty choppy. It takes about 3 hours.

Resupply and Accommodation

Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns

• Calendario Mancilla consists of a single, small hospidaje and campground. Sometimes you can purchase meat or eggs from the owners, but there are very limited options for buying food.

Links to other Resources

Retired Section Article GPT37H - Lago O'Higgins