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==Season 2023/24==
*2024 Mar 24th to Mar 31st / 6 hiking days and 2 rest days / SOBO / Hiking / RR, Var C, E, H, G, Opt 1 and 1A, Opt 2 and 2A / Michael and Kaisa
We did sections 14 and 15 together.
TL:DR: a nice section; the summit of Sollipulli is not to be missed!
Day 1 March 24th
We left Icalma at 08:30. It was a foggy morning and the air was still, very nice hiking weather and beautiful light. It had rained the day before so the road walk was thankfully not dusty. It was a Sunday morning and very few cars passed.
We left the highway to keep on RR. It is a dirt road for quite some time. We found a lot of piñones just lying on the ground. There was an unmarked ford at (-38.84187, -71.36345). After that the overgrown section began. It was somewhat challenging for us, not bush bashing per se, but definitely bush pushing. A lot of it was waist high and really slowed us down. Our plan had been to get to the laguna on Var C, but it became obvious that even if we did make it, it would be dark before we got there. Looking at the GPS I noticed what looked like a small laguna at (-38.86766, -71.38010). There was no OSM track for it, but when we got closer, we found a dirt road going to it. There was no sign and no fences. It was a lovely spot. There were a few araucarias dropping piñones, and the laguna was clear and glassy smooth. It was, however, definitely someone's campground. There are flat spots for tents, picnic tables, a shipping container turned into a bathroom (padlocked shut when we were there), and there were signs of more development planned. Point being, if you plan to camp here in future seasons, be aware that, at least during “la temporada”, there may be other people there, and it probably costs money.
Day 2 March 25th
We made it a short day. Our packs were extra heavy due to all the piñones we were harvesting. We kept trying to stop, but there is just something about their color and shape that makes them irresistible to pick up. The path from the campground to the laguna on 14-C is a dirt road the whole way. We had to check the GPS a few times as there are a few other roads that break off of it, but the route is easy walking. The laguna is very pretty and the campsite there is nice. It's fairly flat with plenty of space for multiple tents, under some trees, so mixed shade and sun, and easy water access. There was also a fire ring there. We had our first fire of the season and cooked a few batches of piñones. Some people on horseback came by looking for their cows. They said they are beginning the process of collecting the animals and moving them down to the invernadas for the winter. They mentioned that the laguna on 14-C is called Laguna Santa Olga.
Day 3 March 26th
Stayed at Laguna Santa Olga for a rest day.
Day 4 March 27th
We walked by (Camp 14 [17.9/1538]) on the way back to the road. We could hear a stream trickling in the opposite side of the road from it.
The forest along the way was beautiful. It was a great time of year to be there as well, sunny but not hot and the light was always nice. We collected another 2 kg of piñones. There were so many everywhere, we definitely could have bought less food and been okay.
We took Var E to bypass the road construction even though there was no one there by the time we arrived. It was mostly because we were looking for camping and knew there wouldn't be any good spots there. But if someone arrived there after work hours, the gate going SOBO was just closed with wire, and on the other end it was possible to just walk around the fence.
We then followed Var H on to Var G towards Var F. We camped at Camping Carilafquen (-38.91004, -71.49813) along Var F. We paid 10.000 for the tent space. There was no one else there. The campground was pleasant. It had plenty of space on the grass for tents, picnic tables, and bathrooms with showers, cold water only, no electricity. It was a good option for us because it was only 1.6 km from the CONAF office. If wanting to camp there, just up the road from the property there is a house. A couple who manages the campground lives there. They were very nice, they even gave us sopaipillas.
Day 5 March 28th
We arrived at the CONAF office around 09:00. There was no ranger on the office. We started moving things into a small backpack anticipating leaving our bags. By the time we were ready to hike, still no one had shown up. Fortunately a small tour group arrived and parked right next to the CONAF office. They said we could put out bags in their vehicle and they would leave them for us if they got back first.
The walk up through the forest was beautiful and peaceful. There were a lot of huge, old trees that were very impressive. The trail was well maintained and easy to follow. Higher up it switched to a more lunar landscape with multiple volcanoes and cordilleras of mountains appearing the higher up we got. Towards the top it got a little steep which was slower going. It took us 5 hours to the summit with photo breaks and a snack break. We spent about an hour at the summit with no one else there. The weather was impeccable, full sun and hardly a breeze. The only sound was the river below.
It took us about 3 hours to get back to the bottom.
We ended up camping across the path from the CONAF office next to the picnic tables. There was a facet outside the office and bathrooms.
Day 6 March 29
When the CONAF guard arrived in the morning, he came over to talk with us. He said it was fine that we camped for the night, but just asked us to take the tent down, and then we could take as much time as we needed. It seems that camping there is unofficially acceptable as long as you're there after closing and wrapped up before people start to show up in the morning.
We started to walk along RR. We had been walking less than 30 minutes when a truck stopped and offered us a ride. They were going to Paso Llaima and to collect piñones. We rode in the back with their two dogs getting to watch the beautiful misty forest go by around us.
From Paso Llaima we continued on RR, then took Opt 2 to Laguna Huequefilo. The trail up is easy to follow and well maintained. The sign at the front says no camping and no fires, but there was no CONAF office and no guardadaparques. When we got to the lake there were several groups camping and having fires. There are a huge number of araucarias there and it is a very popular spot with locals to go to collect them.
Going down Opt 2A to the SE end of the lake, there is a fairly large sand beach and a creek feeding into the lake that was a good place to get water from. A local family from Ragolil that was camping there suggested a good spot around (-39.05250, -71.43000) that was fairly wind protected but still close to the beach. But if it's not windy, that end of the lake has plenty of space for camping. The lake and the setting is beautiful and for us it was well worth the detour.
Day 7 March 30th
We stayed at Laguna Huequefilo for a rest day.
Day 8 March 31st
We left Laguna Huequefilo and headed back to finish 14 and start 15. We gathered more piñones along the way. At (-39.05455, -71.46918), around km 52.26 there was a sign for a minimarket. The woman who runs is, Viviana, is very nice. She and her family moved there a couple of years ago from Santiago. We suggested she carry gas for camping and she said she would try to get some to sell in the future. She had canned fish, pasta, rice, 200 g tomato sauce packets, bullion cubes, mermeladas, butter and margarine, and a variety of cookies and candy. Prices were reasonable. We bought some things and got back to the road. We almost immediately caught a hitch to the beginning of GPT15 Opt 1.
*2024-Mar-18 to 2024-Mar-19 / 1 day / SOBO / RR 01 01a/ Matthias de Austria
No snowfields, no Tabanos, no Mosquitos. Plenty of water except for the Sollipulli peak area.
Came from Lonquimay by bus at 12:00 to Icalma, arrival around 14:00. There is a minibus directly going a bit west, but only to the intersection at the end of the lake, so maybe like 3km for 500 peso.
Very little traffic, but luckily got 4 rides until the ranger at 31.8 in just 3 hours. I am a bit in a hurry as I want to hike Sollipulli but the weather turns bad next day evening. There is a minibus coming from Melipeuco to intersection end of Variant I. It turns to the bridge 30.6.
I did not visit the rangers, as I don't want to go back the same way. Looking for a hidden spot ro camp and early start to the peak the next day.
Don't camp at Hannes suggestion, every Hilux driver coming downhill will spot you easily. I am sure the actuall place he meant is -38.923355,-71.489118. Well hidden and flat, but the water on the other side of road dried up. There is water on your side too, but don't just follow your ears, you won't reach the water. Instead walk where it is relatively easy in south to south east, you may or may not see path like structure, but ca. in 200m you will reach a good path, just follow it uphill directly to the water at -38.924705,-71.489552. It is a 5 to 10min walk from camp. If you follow this path further it leads you to the OSM dirtroad, which is an offical marked hiking path of the park.
I am alone all the way, later I heard that the rangers closed the path due the upcoming bad weather. Very strong and cold winds at the peak, a few hours later it will be snowing, I would love to try the traverse, but it is too risky with that forecast. Nice CC back down to the pass 41.5.
First running water coming from the peak: -38.966463,-71.472000
Possible camp with water at 01: -38.971581,-71.465207
Only car on the road picks me up, a tourist couple from Santiago who stayed at the luxury lodge, and we drive to Pucón, while the rain starts.
Without summiting Sollipulli this would be a drive by section, but Sollipulli makes this section absolutely amazing and I strongly recommend the easy climb up just for those mind blowing views.
From 2024-03-10 to 2023-03-11 // 2 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR + OPT1 (Summit) // Quentin Clavel
What a section !
After a very cold start, early in the morning at the bottom of the vallee of reigolil, you just go slowly but surely in the Villarica reserve.
The gravel road is transforming into a smaller 4WD track, and the path is lovely, going up gradually, passing threw a nice forest, with many amazing aucaria trees.
Lucky enough to arrive in this region at the time where piniones are still possible to pick. Didn't had to make a lot of effort, just harvesting the ground was enough to give me way more than what I needed !
I took the junction to reach the summit. At the very beginning I struggle a bit, when you reach a puesto, there's few possibility of track, I took the wrong one that result on a little fight with the bush, then I managed to come back on track, which is pretty clear until the volcanic plateau.
No trouble at all with water, as you'll have some along the path, from th beginning to the end.
Arriving to the plateau, then stick to the track, it will guide you to the summit and the outstanding view on the massive nevados de sollipulli ! That was sick, even with a looooooot of wind. I still stayed there for more than an hour, protected from the wind thanks to some bog rocks, contemplating this amazing landscape, some condors dancing around and the views over lanin and Llaima volcanoes.
It was finally time to leave this kind of parrallele world. The way down was very easy as the track is marqued. Some crazy views again with Llaima volcán + the aucaria trees around, then I reached the conaf desk. I arrived there late and no-one was still there.
(Didn't mentionned that going NOBO you don't have to respect a precise timing to go up, there's no conaf desk on that way).
Then continuing on the way to icalma, passing threw a private pipeline working area. But as it was late on the day, I haven't got any troubles (still easy to avoid, by taking the variant E).
After passing the Hot Spring {13} [#1/945] (PK28), you'll have to jump a gate, then few gates/fences, and continuing in the forest on a very well marked 4WD track, until the overgrown part, which is not difficult to pass.
It's overgrown, but nothing to be scared about ! The track is still visible, it's just that the nature want to give you some hugs, very nice and kind, I could even say cute. It's nothing like a fight with the bush !
Then you continue till reaching the gravel road until Icalma. There it's possible to resupply Ith multiple minimercado, you have some possibilities to sleep too, bit it's still a tiny city, don't expect a lot.
*2024-Feb-16 to 2024-Feb 18 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR /czimahi
from Reigolil - no good resupply, no pan- following RR, night camp 46,9; then no prob (cross rio Carilafquen just first bridge after camping, think it is 14E) till point S38°51.753` W71°23.062` where I follow wrong way- for sure this would lead to 14a and to the main road. I decided go back to RR and be hours in bush. At the end I missed the route once more but I found water which I needed (aprox S38°50.483` W71°21.907`) and then meet 14B and back to RR to the camp $ 13, and next day to Icalma pueblo.
*2024 Jan 30 to 2024 Feb 01 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH14-C + OH14-E + OH14-01 / Hannes
Hitchhiked to km 5,2. Then I went on RR, found last water at -38.841797 -71.363423, soon after the as overgrown marked trail starts. Trail actually not to bad overgrown, most of the time clearly visible, sometimes I had to stick to GPS, especially at the beginning, there are a few trails there… Till the Laguna {14C} I did not see water anymore, except close to Camp at km 17,9, around 50m down towards the puesto was running a little streamlet, maybe drying out? Laguna on OH 14-C is very nice! Good camping spot, but I headed on, still to early. Camped then at km 28,6. I loved this place! An open air cinema with all the green and birds flying and singing around. At -38.889097 -71.450367 you’ll find a locked? gate, barbed wire fence around. Check if it is really locked, I did not look accurately! I say this, because the next one I encountered outside this valley was just pseudolocked. Anyway, I passed the fence at around -38.889820 -71.449927, around 100ms to the left from gate beneath. Seemed to me the best option, but check out for yourself…Walked on. You’ll find another unlocked gate at -38.901269 -71.504529, private property with a sign that just authorised persons can pass, some company I suppose. I took a detour over OH14 E, but having seen the exit of this company road close to km 30, shortly before the bridge, I would have taken it. There a gate as well, but not locked and either entrance or exit nobody around. Went on to Conaf to take some water. Read about their rules and so I decided to take the unofficial trail up to the volcano shown on the OSMmap at 38.9238605S, 71.4873252W as some others already spotted. My plan was to do the Sollipulli-Traverse over the rim. The thing is: Where this trail (actually more an MR) starts, there is a nearly 100m long fence, hindering you to drop in directly, furthermore at the end of this fence there is an other cabaña, looks like an outpost of CONAF checking who is taking this trail. I do not know who sits in this shack, did not want to know either, did not want to explain my plans. So I went back were the fence starts. This is at -38.92315, -71.48867, there is a signboard with „Sollipulli Lodge, 500ms". There I dropped into the bushes. There would be actually a pretty nice camp spot for one to two tents at around -38.922156 -71.489928, around 30ms from the MR, but nobody sees you and water nearby at the other side of the road. From there I walked up (little CC) keeping in mind where the OSM trail goes, found a path and somewhere I got on this OSM trail. Went up to the summit. Looked over the rim, realized I had to descent for the next summit towards the south, impossible there to cross over the rim. Went down southeast of the summit to this two beautiful lakes, some bigger snowfields there, but could be done with afternoon sun. Camped at -38.971172 -71.489823, an amazing campsite! But realized there that without micro spikes or crampons I would have to detour some extended snowfields in the morning and loose a lot of time, not knowing what expects me after the next summit. So I skipped my plan for the traverse and went down over OH 14-01. Then all the way out to Reigolil. Difficult for me to hitch a car…
*2024-Jan-13 to 2024-Jan-15 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {14-A} - RR - {14-E} - RR - {14-01} - RR / Lilian
DON'T SKIP GPT14, the views on Nevados de Sollipulli is one of the most STUNNING views in my life!
HIGHLY RECOMMEND to you!
Here is the waypoint description:
RR road walking.
Km1.0 : a small shop.
Km1.1 : tiny shop, look like only have drinks and ice cream. It is closed when i was there at weekend.
Km5.2 : junction of RR and {14-A}, i go for {14-A} because i want to arrive ranger station RR[31.8/1141] before 11am, {14-A} is a dirt road, the time can be controlled and stable.
{14-A} km6.3 : ranger station, crowned when i pass here.
Lot of possible camping spot beside the dirt road of {14-A}, i think it is easy to find a spot here.
{14-A} km10.9 : water flowing, but it need some BB, about 10m for get close to stream.
Km11.4 : locked gate, go around itbon right side.
Km12.5 : huge blowdown, no more cars going up by this road.
Km13.0 : side trail on valley side, 30m for collecting water, flowing low.
Km13.3 : {14-A} end, connect with RR km15.7.
I find one more water spot nearby, at RR km15.6, also a side trail at valley side, a little overgrown about 10m to stream, better water at downstream 10m, you can cross 2 logs there, then you will find a very tiny waterfall, easy to collect.
Camp RR[17.9/1538] : tiny grassland, some muddy nearby. Water flowing at downstream of the muddy, but in steep valley look like very difficult to collect.
Camp[22.4/2158] : very beautiful grassland camping spot until km22.95.
Km23.45 : locked gate with barbed wire fence. Better climb at left side, just the top one is barbed wire, all the wire of right side is barbed.
Km24.6 : another beautiful grassland camping spot. I heard water flowing good at valley side, but I'm not sure can collect water or not. I think this is the last camping spot before you met settlement and climbing Sollipulli.
Km25.85 : crossing Estero Huechelepun on bridge, water flowing good under the bridge, it is a steep valley, I don't think it is possible to collect water here.
Km29.5 : junction of RR, {14-I} and {14-E}. RR is blocked by barbed wire fence. So i go for {14-E} then met RR.
Honestly, i don't think {14-F}, {14-G} and {14-H} is still usable now. At {14-E} km0.4, {14-F} is blocked by a barbed wire fence(no gate) that taller than human, only this spot the fence is such high, i think it means the owner not welcome other people to go in at here. Also bridge[31.0+0.2/1020] and ford[31.0/1034] is all blocked by gate or barbed wire fence. Even you can climb all over them, {14-F} is going just beside settlement, it will annoys the people there.
Lastly, ranger station is not at park ranger[31.8/1141], it is at (-38.91796, -71.49481), even you can sneak by {14-F}, rangers are still in front of you. There are no way to go around them, and their windows are towards the road, they see you before you get close (the only method is earlier or later than them at there).
So, i go for a round trip for Sollipulli, and put my backpack in ranger station.
For Sollipulli {14-01}:
Km0 : ranger station, car parking lot, some picnic table, food truck(not open on Sunday when i was there) and toilet. Also you can collect water by Río Carilafquén if need.
Km1.25 : official viewpoint, but surrounded by some trees taller than the viewpoint 5-20m, i saw nothing here. Some benches here too.
Km2.1 : junction of {14-01} and {14-01A} (CC route). For GPT hiker, both are in good condition, easy to follow and walk, but of course {14-01} is a little better condition, because of official route.
Km3.8 : sharp turning, a helipad nearby.
Km4.73 : official viewpoint.
Km5.3-km6.1 : snow valley, covered by snow now. Not too steep, no difficult climb up and go down, also there are some day hikers, mostly you can follow their steps or go by yourself.
Summit [6.3/2145] to km7.05, covered by snow ridge now, very easy to walk on. Km7.1 is a better point for rest, mort quite, more peaceful. Most of the day hikers would not come to here. km7.05, enjoy your moments here.
For my observation from high, km7.1 to km7.9 are all covered by snow, but easy to walk on. I didn't see any footprints or trace on the snow, so I don't know descent is still work or not. I need to get back my backpack at ranger station, so i didn't go down at here.
I take a long nap and some relax with amazing views at km7.05, such a good time.
I took 3 hours for climb up and 1.5 hour to go down.
Continues on RR :
Km32.2 : viewpoint of waterfall.
Bridge[33.5/1188] : no bridge here, wet feet crossing. From here to ford[37.0/1228] you need to cross the same river 6 times, all wet feet crossing but just above ankle, easy.
Km37.95: flat grassland beside a pond. I saw some people camping here, look nice.
Camp[39.3/1294] : grassland camping spot with 2 fire ring beside the river.
Km40.6 : an old dirt road leads you to a grassland beside the river.
Km43.0 : junction of RR and {14-01}, {14-01} at here is a clear road to west, also one more road is going west after here 80m.
Lot of small stream if flowing good with clear water across the road after the pass.
Km44.5 : road junction, a sign "Reigolil Paso Mallin Chileno" here. Nice seat with good view of Sollipulli too.
Km49 : wet feet or an exciting log crossing.
Shop[57.8/856] : it is a ferretería, with drinks and ice cream, friendly.
At last, I didn't cross bridge[59.8/835] to Reigolil and keep going south because i have enough food for GPT15.
2023 28 - 31 dec / 3 days / NOBO/ Option 01B / Natalie & Tomáš
Bus goes from Reigolil to Curacautin & Pucon. When I was there it left Reigolil at 7 & 7:50 AM (different to timetable) Confirm times at the shop by the bridge in Reigolil. Frank
South Summit:
Temuco-->Cunco-->Lago Caburga-->Hitch/Walk. Or ask/phone the business at Termas Rio Blanco & Termas San Sebastián about their own chartered buses, from a brief conversation with an employee there sounded to be a bus every few days.What's app +56946809918, +56992318329
Temuco's Terminal de Buses Rurales (Balmaceda 1475) can be complicated since most buses have their own shop elsewhere. For Cunco go to office "IGI LLAIMA/ Nar Bus"; Balmaceda 997. The bus leaves every 30min.
From Cunco check with locals about bus to Lago Caburga. Supposedly a bus leaves everyday at 4 or 5pm from Balmaceda corner La Concepción. It will pass by the nice supermarket;Supermercado Hesis on "Colico Sur" aka the S-75. Confirm schedule in the municipality of Cunco before traveling at +56 45 2200147.
Hitchhiking is easy up until Lago Collico, after that there are cars but not many stop.
=Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues=