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→Season 2023/24
==Season 2023/24==
2024-03-19 to 2024-03-21 // 2 days (one day off due to the horrible weather) // Hiking // NOBO // RR + VARIANT C + VARIANT B // Quentin Clavel
I then continue my way threw GPT 09 (went from GPT 12 to 09 straight).
Easy track to follow all along, until the volcanic plateau. It's kind of an highway of arieros! I met a lot, all very nice, some of them quite curious of what my itinerary looks like.
Pass after trapa trapa was a bit hard because of the heat, and because I began to be a tired, I had to do few breaks.
Then arriving on a plateau, going down and pretty flat after, very well marques, on some part very sandy. After that you arrive on the big straight lines part, that was so exciting for me, the scenery are so nice that I was even a bit happy to walk on gravel roads aha. Weather begun to be very windy on the plateau that reminds me some hard times on the bloody tierra del fuego !
I was absolutely so happy to find an abandoned puesto that was a perfect shelter for an extremely windy, cold and rainy night. This shelter is located few meters on the right after the Ford {09} [37.0/1512].
As the weather was terrible the day after (snow on all the summits around and still heavy rain) I stopped for one day. One local, that live in a puesto around was curious and came by, we discuss and asked for the authorisation to stay there, and he said it was not a problem at all.
Day after was stunning, I was so happy to skip the rain to have this lovely weather for the end of this amazing section !
Took variant C, had nice talks with carabineros, no problem at all to pass there now as long as you explain the situation. This option si very scenic, again, I was amazed from the volcan and the nice geometry of it, and the gravel road who's going on the way.
Then CC on variant B, straight after the big house and the bus that sell food at the middle of nowhere !
I was amazed from the landscapes, antuco volcan for sure, but the amazing siella velluda también !
Teaching the pass, then continuing CC until reaching PK 11,89, and fond a well marked track until the road.
I strongly hesitated to go up to the summit, but as there were a lot of fresh snow and it was pretty windy, I decide to continue my way, still very happy of the scenery I saw there !
Reaching the road, then hitchhiking to antuco + bus to Los Angeles (7pm) for a porper break, before coming back on this point and going to GPT08.
AGAIN, I loved this section !
* 2024-03-24 to 2024-03-25 / 2 days / SOBO / RR + var D / Marilyne
Day 1 - It was Sunday and few buses were running so I took a “taxi” from Antuco to the start of the trail up the pass. (Owner of my lodging called up one of his friends who sometimes drives Uber around town). 15k to go to the National Park. Park rangers told me that I didn’t have to pay entrance fees since I was crossing the park and not coming back the same way.
Many other hikers were there on a Sunday on the first part of the trail. Enjoyed the day very much and thought the scenery was beautiful. People at the puesto next to second ford of Rio de los Pinos offered me to stay with them but I declined as I was hoping to do this section in 2 days and wanted to hike a little further. Camped shortly after Ford {09} [37.0/1512].
Day 2 - Kept going on the RR until Trapa Trapa. Stopped at the kiosco to buy cookies and chocolate (melted as that little hut in the sun gets hot!). Kept going right away on GPT10.
*2024-Mar-7 to 2024-Mar-8 / 1.5 days / SOBO / RR 2 C D/ Matthias de Austria
Bus from Antuco to Abanico at 8:30am (tell driver you want out at the junction to Abanico). Partly hiked but mostly hitched up to the lake (very little traffic, I was lucky). I choose Variant 2 (an easy road) as my rucksack was so heavy (plan doing Section 9 to 12). Lots of small memorials spreaded out for the soldiers died in a blizzard a few years ago. There was a military training going on, so I passed a lot of small groups of soldiers. All friendly. Later a local familiy asked if I want a ride, sure! We pass the bordercontrol on C2.5km, police just waives us through from a distance. Soon they reach their picknickspot and I continue walking on that long and empty road.
No snowfields, plenty of (unmarked) water, fordings very easy, almost no Tabanos.
Did not see the shop in Trapa-Trapa, but had plenty of food anyway, so put no efford in searching. No cellphone connection in Trapa-Trapa with Movistar.
Nice views of Vulcan Antuco and Laguna de La Laya, otherwise not much to see. Nice, short and easy section (though I did not hiked the pass and had 2 long hitchhikes).
*2024 Feb 25 to Feb 28 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Juliette and Martin
We combined sections 09 and 10 into 5 days of hiking. Beautiful sections with a diversity of landscapes: volcano, meadows, puestos...
Transport to start of section: Albanico
Bus Los Angeles - Albanico at 5 p.m. from rural bus terminal
Hitch-hike to Lagunillas campsite (10,000 pesos pp per night, they also sell empanadas, which are very good, plus there's hot water).
Day 1: Lagunillas campsite - Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)
Lovely day and beautiful volcanic scenery. Not much shade on the climb. Rather pleasant bivouac spot, along the water, with grass and shade, rather cold night as our wet clothes froze at night. Water nearby (estero del volcano)
Day 2: Bridge (-37.46204, -71.31305)- Camp -37.62833, -71.24444
Beautiful day, with a few easy river crossings (maximum knee-deep). There's plenty of vegetation and shade, which is great for breaks.
The camp spot is just a few meters from a puesto, and they offered to let us pitch our tent. Night still cold (frost).
Day 3: Camp -37.62833, -71.24444 - Trapa Trapa
Easier and shorter day than the others, but we followed it up with the start of section 10 so as not to sleep in Trapa Trapa. Not much choice in the mini-shops in Trapa Trapa.
*2024-Feb 09 to Feb 13 / 5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR, Var C, Var D / Michael and Kaisa
We combined sections 9, 10, and 11 together.
Day 0 - Feb 8th
We left Antuco around 13:00. It took two hitches to get us to Lagunillas campground (also called Parque Antuco camping). We were lucky that the second car was actually going to the campground and took us right to reception. Posted price was 10.000 CLP pp. There are about 20 campsites. Each had a picnic table and an electrical plugin, and one of the two bathrooms had showers with hot water. We were not blown away by the campground, however we were just coming from a hostel rather than coming out of the mountains, and perspective counts for a lot. They ask you to pack your trash out. They have a small tienda where they sell prepared food, but nothing for resupply.
Day 1 - Feb 9th
From Lagunillas we took an OSM track directly across the road. The trail is clearly marked and maintained. It goes through native forest with nice views of the mountains and lava fields.
There are at least two waterpoints along the way. The OSM trail connects in with RR.
The trail up is fairly well maintained, no brush overgrowth in the path and no places where the trail has collapsed. The path through the lava field was amazing, and the views of Sierra Velluda were spectacular. It is a fairly popular path. On a Friday about 15 other people were on the trail.
We had already decided we wanted to break the pass into two days if possible. We set up camp at the Campamento Anfiteatro or Amphitheatre Camping (-37.42427, -71.41517). It has a nice view of the glacier on Sierra Velluda and some shade in the afternoon.
If deciding to stay at the amphitheater camping area, there is water on the opposite side of the plane. There is a very large waterfall that is visible from a long distance. Walking toward it, a little to the east (left side) is a smaller waterfall that becomes visible about halfway across. It had very clear water and a pool that is easy to access. There was also a stream that appeared in the late evening about 50 m from the campsite but disappeared again overnight.
Day 2 - Feb 10th
There was water shortly after beginning up RR from Anfiteatro for some distance. The path is on the right side of the dry river bed as you are going up. We got confused and walked part way up the left side before realizing and had to backtrack to get to the correct side. There was still one very small snow field on the other side of the pass, but the trail curved around the right side of it so there was no need to walk on it. Expansive views of the valley on the way down. The trail was easy to see and follow most of the way. At the bottom we just went cross country. We camped at the larger of the two araucarias (-37.46186, -71.32047) in what looked like a arriero campground. The campsite at the smaller araucaria shortly before it looked a little nicer but required crossing the river and looked less wind protected.
Day 3 - Feb 11th
We got a late start. It was a Sunday and there was a fair amount of traffic on the road so we decided to go crosscountry from the bridge and cut the loop to connect in with Var C. It was dry in some places, swampy in others, and we eventually had to switch to water shoes to cross the river. It probably didn't save any time, but it was definitely more interesting and avoided getting blasted by dust with every passing car. We rejoined the road on the far side. The afternoon had a cloud cover and actually got fairly cool which made the road walk much more enjoyable. Once we got onto the spur road just before the BCP we didn't see any more cars or people for the rest of the day. We camped on the uphill side of the road around (-37.57617, -71.24087) which looked to be an arriero campground. Very dusty but there was a reasonably flat spot and a small stream nearby.
Day 4 - Feb 12th
We continued on RR. The valley was pretty, not too much happening. There were a lot of puestos but we saw only a couple of people and not too many animals. We stopped at the estero just before heading up to refill water and have lunch. We were initially going to take Opt 3B because it was shorter, but after seeing how exposed it was and some sketchy parts early on, we turned back and opted for RR. The path was easy to follow and actually in pretty good condition. It went through some beautiful forest which also provided some much needed shade. We took Var D down and did not encounter any dangerous scree. This section is also a little shorter than RR and passed by the river so one can refill if necessary. We were glad we took Var D. We decided to camp about 1km before Trappa Trappa along the river around (-37.70803, -71.24448). It was right next to the road, so far from optimal, but it worked.
Day 5 - Feb 13th
We walked into Trappa Trappa around 11:00. It was very windy the entire time we were there, and almost no one around. We first went to the shop with the Kiosko sign, but no one was there. A neighbor came out and told us that the guy works in the school till around 14:00, but would be around later. We then went to the shop indicated by the Provisiones sign. She didn't have a lot. She said the food truck was coming that day around 18:00, so I guess we just got unlucky with the timing. We bought some pasta, cookies, yogurts, Zukos, canned fish, crackers, and she made us sopaipillas for 300 each. They were really good but a very different style from the ones we had had with the arrieros, more pastry-like, fried crispy on the outside but still doughy on the inside and more oily. Very filling but I don't think they would work well to carry. We went back to the Kiosko shop and the guy came when we rang the timbre. He had even less stuff, mostly cookies. We bought a few more things there. Finally we went to the shop just at the beginning of Section 10. It is on the left just as you start down the hill, a corrugated metal wall with a large square cut out of the side that acts like a window and the word “Hola” scratched into the side. She had the least amount of things, but she did have fresh onions and carrots, no cheese (she said she makes it in December and when it's gone that's it for the year). Initially she said she didn't have any bread, but as we were talking with her she offered to sell us a bread, a pan amasado that was huge and dense and served us for three meals. From here we continued into GPT10.
*2024-Feb-11 to 2024-Feb-13 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH B + C + D / Joscha
I combined section 9 to 12. It took me 7.5 days in total.
Day 1: RR [5.8-9.6]
I hitched in the afternoon from Los Angeles to the entrance of the Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja (around km 5.8). From there I hiked to km 9.6. Here are some nice flat spots to camp + you have a nice view over the Rio Laja valley. But there is no water at the spot.
Day 2: RR [9.6-20.7] + OH09-B + OH09-C + RR [34.9-47.4]
Big flat, sandy area around km 11.9 is a good campingspot. There is also a creek flowing not more than 50 meters south of the RR-CC [11.9+4.9]. The RR over the Pass (km 16.8) is completely snow free now. The RR and OH-B cross a creek at km 20.8. There is lots of water on OH B + C + RR [34.9-47.4].
Day 3: RR [47.4-54.6] + OH09-D + RR [56.4-61.5]
Ford at km 52.3 is dry. But the RR cross a bunch of streams around the Pass (km 50.4) and it runs along the river of the valley at km 53.2 for a few 100 meters. I just went through Trapa Trapa and continued directly with section 10.
*2024-Feb-15 to 2024-Feb-18 / 4 days / Hiking / NOBO / Trapa-Trapa - El Abanaico / RR + Option 01 + Option B + Option C +Option D / Alex & Christophe
We really enjoyed this section even if it wasn't really fast to walk in the sand and lava field.
We didn't have much to add to what has already been written.
We tried to summit the Antuco Volcano bit didn't success because it was too steep and too lose so we stopped at 2700m. I would recommend to take crampons if you want to summit, so you can go in the snow (wich was quite hard, even at 2pm) and it should be easier. What I would however recommend to everyone is to go up to 2300m. It is easy to go from the pass and the panorama is incredible.
We camped after the try on the Volcano at the Amphitheatre Campsite. It was a nice place but I wouldn't recommend it. First, you have to walk a kilometer just to wash yourself and to take some water and second, we had strong wind gusts all night long. The camp is not wind protected.
*2024-Jan-12 to 2024-Jan-13 / 2 days / SOBO / RR, OH C, OH 03B and OH 03/ Hannes
Started in Camping Las Lagunillas at around 7 am. Took me about 4 to 5 hours to the pass. On the way up I found water starting from -37.423109 -71.404405 onwards, followed along. Big stream, should not dry out soon or never(?) during summer. At the pass still to much snow to drop in directly to the path on the other side. Instead of walking upwards to the left towards volcano I took short detour to the right, to come around the snowfield, for me worked out well. Slided then down on the lower and not so steep snowfields to get to a basin. Reached from there the RR…Thought could be tough to ford estero Petronquines on the RR, so took the road (OH C)…Two police stations there, nobody checked me, although cars were at each spot… somehow an annoying road to walk on…you could hitchhike a part of it, there is some traffic, but not to much. I did not. Camped at a beautiful spot at the river -37.511560, -71.259157 a few kms before the landmark. There is life here all along the road, lots of puestos, cows, sheep, goats. Next day again along this endless seeming road up to the pass above Trapa Trapa, water all along, even at the pass…From there I took OH 03B, which is the shorter way to the village, OH03 from
-37.69671, -71.25027 was in some parts a light BB till I got on a good trail which brought me down to Trapa. Descending down the pass to the village you’ll get an other version of Chile. Araucania trees are showing up and you are now in Mapuche region, no more chilean flags at every house down there. End of this sector was for me the biggest change on the GPT so far (having done the sections before from Santiago)…other people, language, culture, other flora…a kind of a very welcoming change. Arriving in Trapa Trapa you could give a try at owner of house at -37.71056, -71.26569, junction OH03 and main road. He offered me camping and food if I couldn’t find something in town. If not there is the usual family who takes guests. Miniminishop is at
-37.71240, -71.26355
*2024-Jan-01 to 2024-Jan-03 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR - {09-B} - {09-C} - RR - {09-D} - RR / Lilian
I combined GPT09+10+11+12, first resupply 6 days food in Antuco, then take 2.5 days for 09, stay in Trapa Trapa(save 2 meals), resupply in Trapa Trapa for 1.5 days food(low stock and limited selection). Then take 2 days for 10, stay in Guallalí(save 2 meals), resupply in Guallalí for 2 days food(low stock and limited selection but better than Trapa Trapa). Lastly 2 days for 11, 4 days for 12)
Nice resupply in Antuco, but most of them are closed because i visit here on the first day of 2024.
A friendly local give me a ride to the entrance of national park, thank you so much to him! There are some beautiful waterfalls start at RR km2.3 to km4.7, remember to take a look, they are at the mountain side(right side)! Lot of families come to here for enjoy their holidays.
RR km5.7 : ranger station for vehicles and people control for entering the park. Super nice and let me go in after i told them my route, no need to pay any fee or show any permits.
Park ranger[8.4/1110] : look like is a ranger station, didn't see anyone when I passed here on 5.30pm.
Km9.7 : flat area, you can camp here if need, but no water.
Km11.25 - km11.9 : lava trail, there are some rock cairn for you to follow, not difficult.
Km11.9 : if you continue going south at the RR sharp turning, about 200m you will met a stream, flowing good with cold and clear water, flat spots nearby too, but I'm not sure it will dry up or not.
Follow rock cairn to the pass, mostly you'll lost the trail and cairn at km15.6, look at the right side, go down the dry riverbed then climb up to the other side, you'll find cairn again. Don't walk in riverbed, they'll block your way at the end.
Still lot of snow after the pass, follow Véronica's comment, climb up the ridge to compass NE ( I walk on the top of snow slope, because it is flat and gentle, also i think it is easier than walking on loose sand.)
At about 2150m, there is a break without snow, a sandy slope that you can walk down. ( -37.43215, -71.36002 )
Not steep, i think is easy go down but slow, so when i go down a little, i go back to south side to join the snow slope for fast moving, snow slope becomes more gentle when it gets lower.
By the way, you can climb up and go down the pass without stepping on any snow now.
Km20.7 : you'll find car track here, you can follow it to dirt road, i take {09-B} here, avoid crossing Petronquines(RR km28.9) at downstream. {09-B} is something look like a very old car track on the ground, no cars running on it anymore, easy walking but not easy to follow.
{09-B} km1.15 : crossing of Estero El Aguada o El Volcán ( a long name), a stream. A very good crossing point, stream break to 6 parts here, all below half of calf at afternoon. Flowing nice with clear water.
After the crossing, i can't find any trail or car track on the other side, but after i keep going CC about 400m, a dirt road in good condition at mountain side, it'll lead you to the main dirt road and join {09-C}.
Bridge {09-C} [1.7/1417] : milky water.
Border control CL[2.5/1420] : gate for vehicles but not for people. Didn't see anyone when I passed here at 5pm.
Km3.7: excellent view point of Volcán Antuco and meadows.
Bridge[5.3/1444] : crossing Petronquines on a bridge, beautiful view and lot of clear water, maybe it is difficult to cross it at downstream (RR) as now. Look like you can camp beside, or under the bridge. But every 0.5 - 1 hour have a border control vehicle patroling the road, I don't know camping beside this road is it a good idea.
Bridge[7.3/1470] : clear water but no flat spots.
X RR[34.9/1495] : rejoin RR.
Ford[37.0/1512] : below half of calf at late afternoon.
Km39.4 - pass[50.4/1878] : lot of stream crossing the road, have 1-2 need wet feet crossing, just beside the pass is a stream flowing too.
Pass[50.4/1878] : beautiful grassland, flat and nice for camping, but 20+cows when I passed here.
RR-TL-V{09} [50.4+9.6] is a nice and maintained trail ,easy to follow, sometimes you'll find orange ribbon leads where you go.
Ford[52.3/1648] : no river crossing here.
Km53.15 - km53.65 : you need to cross the stream 4 times, then walk in the stream about 50m, but all dry feet crossing, rock hopping or log bridge will help you.
Km54.55 : junction of RR and {09-D}, but i miss the turning to RR, so i go for {09-D}.
{09-D} km0.4: river crossing, rock hopping for dry feet. Also a small grassland can fit 1-3 tents after the crossing 150m.
Km0.6 : a stream flowing good crossing the trail with a tiny waterfall, you can sit under it to enjoy a cool shower in a hot day. Look like the other side of river have a nice grassland for camping can fit 2-4 tents, but wet feet crossing.
Km1.1 : rejoin RR.
Viewpoint RR [57.4/1338] : if you are SOBO, it is the first view of Volcán Callaqui. Also nice view of Trapa Trapa.
Km58.6 : CAUTION, if you see a red ribbon, DON'T keep going, you are not on the trail, turn back immediately and check your GPS. RR trail is a sharp turning then go down, you are walking away from the trail and towards a very steep slope now.
Km58.95 : RR have some reroute at here, but mostly you can follow the only trail to main road.
I stayed at Trapa Trapa with the lovely family at (Lodging,food) waypoint. Simple single room with bed, quilt, chair, light and electric charger, also dinner and breakfast. I buy some sausage from the shop nearby and share with all people here. They are very exciting where i come from, what I'm doing, and what interesting things happened when I'm hiking, it is a warm night, i love them! And they invited me to watch their sterilization of horse, OMG OMG OMG, so shock to me, OMG.
Shop (-37.71249,-71.25642) : at compass West of (Lodging,food) waypoint, very close just 2 min walking. Two red house here, the small one is shop. Selling drinks, ice cream, biscuits, pasta, coffee, tea and some frozen meat( mostly is sausage). This shop have a sign on the main road, no sign at the front gate and the gate is opened.
2023 Dec 28 to Dec 29 / 2 days / hiking / SOBO / Option 2 + RR+ 09-C/ Ella
TLDR: no issue at border control. don’t count on Lagunillas Camping cafeteria or the Lodging, Food waypoint in Trapa Trapa
Bussed from Los Angeles to Abanico - make sure to go to the terminal for rural busses which will be different from where you might get off an intercity bus. Hitched from there to Lagunillas Camping. Campground was nice and spacious. The host is really kind and helpful. The cafeteria was not open for food when I was there, just coffee and tea.
Day 1: Due to a stormy forecast, I chose to avoid the already sketchy-seeming pass and head for the route around the lake (option 2). To get there, I took the small trails around the main road heading east from the campground, which were scenic for a cloudy day with no mountain view - enjoyed the volcanic landscape and the waterfall Salto Las Chilcas. I then was able to hitch a ride on the road beside the lake to the other side of the Volcano, which was good because there didn’t appear to be many streams or campsite options. I continued on by foot on Variant C. I went through border control and the officer was very thorough, but didn’t try to give me an exit stamp when I explained I wasn’t going to cross the border. He mostly seemed concerned that I was alone and tried to offer food and a bathroom! I camped a few kilometers further along that road by one of the streams that crosses it. Beware of aggressive bulls in the area.
Day 2: Easy walking all the way to the pass. Water is still available about every kilometer or two along this route. After the pass there are a few points with a bit of landslide risk where you’re walking on very unstable skree. In retrospect it seems Variant D may exist to avoid some of this but I can’t be sure because I didn’t take it. When I got to Trapa Trapa I was dismayed to find no one at the lodging and food point that others had raved about. The small market just beside this point (sign for “provisions” is only on the main road. looks like a small house with the front painted red next to a larger house) was indeed open at 6pm on a Friday after I called out. There were many types of biscuits and cold drinks, pasta sauce (no pasta), coffee, and maybe even some type of meat in the freezer that I wasn’t quite daring enough to buy. Highly recommend the calorific Chiky Bum biscuits for avoiding mental collapse after a nearly 30km day. I asked the owner about the lodging option next door and she said the family was away for a few days, so guess I just got unlucky. Further down the road towards GPT 10 where there is sign “Kiosco”, there’s also a small ice cream shop/market that was closed when I arrived. I didn’t find another market. Went back up the GPT 09 trail just a bit to get out of town and found a nice camping spot along the river for the night. Visits from goats and a baby horse were a welcome occurrence. No Entel service in Trapa Trapa.
2023 Dec 20 to Dec 22 / 2,5 days / hiking / SOBO / RR & 09-C/ Tomáš & Natalie