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==Season 2023/24==
2024-04-05 to 2024-04-08 // 3,5 days // Hiking // NOBO // variant H + RR // Quentin Clavel
I combined the GPT 6 to GPT 5.
After reaching the thermals del Azufre, I took the variant H to link these two sections. On this variant the path is less visible, you somehow can follow cow track then it goes very down on a pretty steep ridge to the valley. CC on the valley then leaving the river bed to go a little bit higher and reach the GPT 5. This variant is a bit annoying, but doable.
When you reach the GPT5, there's a better marked track, still very sandy, you'll follow it until reaching the private property near Lago Mondaca. I conturned it around the fences and haven't seen anyone around. Later one you reach the puesto with a right of way.
Same method, I conturned it, but there was a lot of movement at this place, with lot of horses and people around. I saluate them nicely, and the right of way turning into an unexpected hospitable invitation !
6 arierros were there, in the puesto of Ricardo, doing a break of few days before guiding a big group of cows (470 animals !) down the valley. They gave me juice, cazuella, mate, bread, harina tostada, and I had to stop them because my bag begun to be too heavy aha ! Amazing stop, great discussions, but I'm quite sure that if Ricardo were alone he wouldn't invited me like that !
Anyway, that was a very good surprise of this section !
I continued threw valleys and pass and was absolutely amazed by the geological formations up there ! I had the feeling to be in Game of Thrones !
Until the lake KM 66,65, you'll find a track, sometimes you'll lose it, but find it again. You'll have wet feets on this stretch ! Lots of river and wetland to pass, but no-one were bad at this time of the season.
Then, from this lake, the track will be harder to find, it's a combination of CC, your own judgement of following what looks like a trail, and an horse trail that is sometimes appearing.
After the second lake at 2300m, there's a clear trail and then you'll reach some gullies that are a bit annoying and where track disappear. Just go slowly and be careful where you put your feets as it move quite easily, lot of falling rocks and quite unstable ground. I didn't followed exactly the RR but more my instinct and what looks like more safely there.
All the way along Rio Colorado is slow and you have to be a bit careful as it's slippery, but a cow track is there. It's only the 500 last meters that are a bit annoying, but I was expecting worse. Going from higher helps you to see where to pass, should be harder SOBO.
I arrived at the puente Las Yeguas, and another surprise : there were no more puente ahaha ! All the planks were retired from the bridge and putted nicely and the side of the riverbank. Some people worked on it apparently, and will rebuild it when the winter will be over I guess. I just arrived too late on the season at this stretch.
After long time of reflexion of what I should do, I walk a bit higher to check how looked like the Rio Colorado. It was very powerful, but 300m upstream there were a small island and the current where divided into 3 branches. I backtracked at that point and tried to cross this monster.
I managed to do it, but it was savage, strong current, water going on me by waves, and big adrenaline moment. No doubt the hardest river of this GPT by far !
I continued on what was the hardest part of the section, all in CC, with big gullies to pass threw followed by a tuff and very steep ascent. Some people mentionned cairns here. I haven't seen any and was hiking straight to the top on a very demanding effort !
From there it's easier imo. Still on CC but following the RR and everything is gonna be alright, especially on the last big gully to pass before Rio negro, follow as close as possible the RR, that's where you'll passed it.
I camped next to Rio negro and passed it the day after without any troubles. Then it's new ascent on CC, and when you'll arrive at the top KM48, the track is appearing again. You've made the hardest part of this section. From there, it's gonna be from better to better.
Going on a little track, then on a more marked one (KM40), and finally on a large one that turns into gravel road for the last kilometers until Los Quienes.
Ar los Quienes, I had a proper rest, well needed after this exhausting but beautiful section (GPT6 + 5). At this tiny city you'll find accomodation (from the end of the section, turn right on the road in front of the carabineros, at the end of the curve you'll find a place with kind of a food truck, there is accomodation for 15K CLP for a room. In front you have supermercado. Going back to carabineros and continuing on the road you'll find other mercados, pizzería, restaurant, there's a feria with few food trucks and a cafe. Perfect place to spend some time. It's been a while that I haven't passed threw a "city" that big and with that choice for food and rest ahaha.
* 2024-March-26 to 2023-April-02 / 7.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + C + D + F / Gerald
My plan was to follow Alex and Andreys footsteps, but i had to descent rather quickly because of coming bad weather (snow, strong wind etc) at Laguna aquas calientes.
Until Rio Negro it's kinda "easy" cause you will find yourself mostly on a trail. Gully wasn't that bad, but finding an alternative way through the landslide later was tough. I almost turned back after a failed scary first attempt. I would say it's dangerous, cause it's steep and everywhere super loose sand. Rocks/stones won't stay in place and it's tough to get out once you enter the steep sandy part. Choose your spot wisely!! Cross country was a lot more demanding than I thought. It will drain your battery also a lot faster cause you have to check super frequently. Once you reach the volcanic landscape expect strong wind. Sand on steep slopes will make it difficult to go as fast as you may want to. Because of the weather i had to go through Laguna Mondaca. I explained my situation to the guys there, they didn't really seem to care and gave me the permission to cross their property. Do not walk next to the dried out lake (check map) if the sand is still wet. You will sink in up to your hips. Pain in the ass to get out. The 1k elevation gain out of the valley is slooooow. Too much sand. The park around El bolson was closed. CONAF Guards called me a fanatic after they figured out my route. In April there are no buses going to park Ingles, so you have to walk and try to hitchhike your way out.
It was a beautiful hike, especially the valley around Rio Colorado was great. But i am not sure if i have ever done such an demanding hike. I would recommend to do it in a team of 2 and not alone. I will appreciate proper trails from now on a lot more :)
* SOBO 13.03 -19.03.2024
6 days, 167 km, Ascent 7.619m
Alex + Andrey
Difficulty: Very Difficult (mostly due the long CC sections, would give 4 from 5 for this variant, not 6 (if you are not going to kill yourself attempting to ford rio Colorado down the valley).
GPT05:
RR until the bridge
Variant C
Variant D
Variant F
GPT06:
Option 02
“Natalie - Thomas” traverse
Option 03 (exploration and suggestions)
RR from approx X {06} [57.3/2073]
I published a detailed track on wikiloc with many photos and explanations:
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/desolation-traverse-los-quenes-rio-colorado-descabezado-plateau-central-los-cipreses-164709363
Summary:
The famous gully “Cuesta La Hormiga” is not very difficult and pretty safe, the subsequent CC traverse is annoying.
Part of the path is now destroyed due to the 2023 winter storms, detours are required.
The bridge (Rio Colorado) is gone. And it is not clear whether it will be restored in the future. The Colorado River Valley looks abandoned and partially overgrown up to wp Hot Springs1.
Even if the bridge were in place, I think that our option (Variant C, Variant, Variant F/Variant D) is easier, more spectacular, safer and overall better than RR
Fording the Rio Colorado was very easy, less than knee deep.
At the farthest point of the Colorado River Valley, the trail crosses a remote but fully operable (we met a fly-fishing team in a Toyota Prado) 4x4 road from Argentina, which is worth keeping in mind in case of emergency or rescue (marked in the track)
We completed the “Avoid Don Victor” option for GPT06 without visiting Banos del Blanquillo, combining the “Natalie - Thomas” traverse with Option03. I can recommend after waypoint “Pass in the rock belt. Easy descent to Laguna Caracol” just descend west about 5-6 km to the lagoon not to miss this magnificent place.
Thanks to all folks who shared their information and suggestions!❤️
==Season 2022/23==
Next day, the walk down to Los Quenes was uneventful. Met a family on horses who wanted to go to the Lagoonas del Teno (we told them it is probably possible but are not sure)and hitched the last 4 km (deeper in the valley, there was no traffic our direction). Then we took. Bus at 1400 to Curico.
*2023-Jan-10 5 days RR SOBO Frank
Stayed at hut on the ridge above Rio Claro (after ford) reached in 1 very long day. It's used by arrieros but there was no one there. The descent to Rio Negro was a bit sketchy in places, hardly any trail & eroded but it improves as you go down. Rio Claro ford was OK. Forded Rio Negro in afternoon, it was pretty far from OK. The water was waist deep & breaking over me in a wave, nearly knocking me over but I hung onto a submerged boulder in midstream. The most difficult crossing I had on GPT1-40. Cross early in the morning if you can. After Rio Negro you traverse through a small gully, it looks sketchy but is OK if you cross on RR. On the ridge after & above the small gully look for cairns which mark where you descend into the big gully. You can't continue along the ridge as it cliffs out. I don't think the descent is really difficult or dangerous (others may disagree) but it's very slow & awkward going. When you are low in the gully be sure to stay on RR which traverses out left. If you continue directly down to Rio Colorado there are a few gullys perpendicular to the Rio Colorado valley. They are very steep sided & you can only cross them by staying on RR. Stayed at hut before Rio Colorado bridge, it's 1 KM off the RR. Again it is used by arrieros but there was no one there. As I was leaving in the morning I saw them coming in.
Followed Tomas's suggestion & found a good track all the way to Lake 2300M. After the lake don't ascend by the waterfall which is steep & nasty. Instead, at the lake looking towards the waterfall go up a small ridge on the RHS of lake, then traverse left to come in above the waterfall on its right. Cross the stream above the waterfall & find a small horse trail which goes through a breach in the cliff & leads to open ground on the way to the pass. This option bypasses all the nasty & loose scree & is much easier. Saw about 30 condors feasting on a carcass near the pass. Met the guards @ Laguna Mondaca, they were very hospitable as detailed by Kris & Stiina. The 1000M climb to the pass after Laguna Mondaca is steep, sandy & without shade or water, best tackled early in the morning. I continued out to Parque Ingles in 1 long day from Laguna Mondaca. Although I walked GPT5 & 6 separately it was no drama as the section from Parque Ingles to/from El Bolson is very quick & easy. The last bus was gone but it was easy to hitch out.
* 2022-Dec-12 to 2022-Dec-17 / 5.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin&Helena
Just like many others we chose to combine sections 5 and 6 with expected 8 days on the way, in reality it was about a half day longer. We have to agree with previous comments about the difficulty, eventhough we were prepared for it and expected the worst really which helped a lot after all.
* 2021-Dec-03 to 2021-Dec-09 / 4 7 days (GPT 05 + 06) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Kris&Stiina
We also decided to combine sections 5 and 6 to avoid in’n’out to and from Parque Inglés. It took us 6 and a half days and some of it was bloody hard. I have never before experienced my ass being handed over to me by a trail. We got beaten to the point where first signs of weakness started to show and I have to admit we kind of even started discussing a plan B and bailing this ditch trail. But only for a moment, once you hit the rock bottom there is only one way to go - up! It was literally and figuratively, and as terrain improved so did our mood and we laughed off the silly thoughts we had had earlier.
==Season 2019/20==
* 2019-Dec-24 / 7 days (for GPT 5 + 6) / Hiking / SOBO/ Ian Hikes
Overview: So, I decided to combine GPT sections 5 and 6 in order to avoid a 30k out and back resupply section into parque ingles. I thought this was a good decision for me and really enjoyed being out there for a week. In my opinion this was the hardest section of the GPT in between sections GPT 01-10. I went the first 5 days without seeing another person which I thought was quite cool. So, these two sections are quite remote, and you are way out there in the mountains. There was also some pretty intense river crossing in “GPT Section 5” that I found to be manageable (keep in mind I’m 185cm and have lots of thru hiking experience.) but still a little difficult. The rivers were also very dark and murky which made it hard to see where you would step. There was also an improvised bridge crossing the Colorado River that I used, and thought was safe to use. These two sections are dominated by a volcanic profile with much of the route on ash and volcanic rock. Most of the route is very exposed and there are not many trees or vegetation that grow in the volcanic ash/rocks. There was plenty of water with springs coming out of the hills everywhere and then disappearing into the sand.
*2019-Dec-09 / 8 days / Hiking /SOBO / RR + AR OH to the Hot Springs / Ty & America
7 nights 8 days for us. Super tough section. The entire area around Rio Colorado is extremely challenging; down & up. We went the alternate route to the Hot Springs. (OH-CC-A@05-C-#001). I was tough with multiple steep gullies, then we got there to see the hot springs were COLD. Then the optional hike to
==Resupply and Accommodation along the Route==
*Quentin Clavel (2024-apr-09)
Los Quienes : at least two supermercados with good resupplies (enough for me, almost everything you need).
Few cabanas, I've been at the cabanas Tia Ely, just next to the supermercado Claudia (when you face the carabineros, on the right side, 50m after the curve).
40K for cabana, 15k for a room. +5k for breakfast. Lovely people. They didn't charged me for cleaning my clothes in their washing machine.
Possibility to eat, in the restaurant, that is mostly used by the workers, it seems like a cafeteria and it's quite ok. Pizzeria is not perfect but doing the job. There's a Feria as well with few food trucks, but everything was closed when I was there.
* 2021-Dec-03 to 2021-Dec-09 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Kris&Stiina
*2019-Dec-08 / 6 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo
At Parque Ingles we found food and accommodation.
=Transport to and from Route=
Monday to Thursday: Molina-Radal: 17:00 // Radal-Molina: 07:30
Friday: Molina-P.Ingles: 17:00 // Radal-Molina: 07:30
Saturday: Molina-P.Ingles: 11:30 // 13:30 / P.Ingles-Molina: 18:00
Sunday: Molina-P.Ingles: 09:00 // P.Ingles-Molina: 15:30 / 17:00
=Images=
[[ArchivoFile: gpt 05.jpg| thumb|1100px|center|[[Volcán Planchón]] from GPT05, by [http://benoit.mirouse.free.fr/index.php/patagonie-2018/recit-photos/6-decembre/ Benoit Mirouse]]]