Cambios

I took the option 1 which is supposed to be peopleless. It is, once you reach the X at 2.4. Or earlier, if you take the OSM trail after 1 km signposted to camping Poincenot. Follow that for 500 m and then turn right on a barely used trail. Shortcut the detour by CCing (roughly here:49.2387039S, 72.9553397W) to the left through open forrest forest after cca 400 m on this trail. Once again on the GPT, you will come across a fence - I guess that is why this trail is not much used, it is probably not official. Viewpoint at 6.2 is really worth it - for me it was also the first time I saw Fitz Roy, as it was in the clouds previously. I camped at the turnoff to the viewpoint here: 49.2640959S, 72.9554167W. There is a place for tent but I used a cave-like space under a boulder 15 m upstream - it was big enough to allow me to use the inner part of my tent against the few mosquitoes around. Too small for two though. Not sure what the legal situation is, I heard when caught camping without a permit in the park, they take your gear and you must pay a fine in town. This trail is however rarely used (only signed by cairns), so probably they would not check here[also, sleeping under the lagoon might be dangerous as it could technically collapse at anytime).

The next day I did not take variant B to Lago de los Tres. By the way the OSM trail there to Cerro Madsen in reality does not seem to go over glacier but in between them, the glaciars are shrinking (it is marked as SAC 4 which seems about right, looks easily walkable/lightly scramblable), you could also probably cut it from the Lago to Laguna Sucia going through this seemingly waterless valley/gulley: 49.2825930S, 72.9843467W. How do I know these? I went from Laguna Sucia (not on GPT yet, but it is on OSM partly) to Laguna Torre. This is a demanding but very fun and extremely beautiful scramble (at most SAC 5 but I did not exactly always aimed aim for the easiest route), hopefully it will make it to the GPX files for the next season. For now, pictures and GPX link [https://www.facebook.com/groups/222224388283455/posts/1761957234310155/ here]. It goes like this: follow the OSM trail that goes from camping Poincenot to Laguna Sucia and then to Swiss Bivy/la Cueva. Once there, follow the trail a bit more (150 m) to get on top of the cliffy-like part of the slope, where it will be a bit flatter. Scramble horizontally to SE and then to E. The glacier is smaller than on the map - I got to its very end and crossed on one of the small gullies near it. Then you traverse for some time on a less steep terrain, until you are roughly under a nameless lake. From there, go up. I took a ridge, which was fun, but easier would be to go up a slope. I got to about 1550 on the ridge that is above the lake from NW. Going down to the lake is a bit less slopy from there. There would be other ways, either going higher over this ridge, or even lower. One could also probably go straight up from the lake, or even with a bit bushbashing approach the lake from NE.

At the lake, I met a Swiss couple who slept there. They built a very nice tent space there. This was a coincidence, this does not seem like popular traverse (though I saw a paraglider launch from Loma de las Pizzaras, which had a trail to it on OSM - ; that is what the Swiss took saying the trail stops 500 m before the peak; from there they went down to a valley south of the peak and over a pass). I went through the pass cca 200 m from Loma de las Pizzaras (which had usable if a bit spotty 4g 4G Claro internet), down a valley and then over a miniscule pass to SW to a lake that is not even on OSM [2024: I since added it to OSM] yet here: 49.3051327S, 72.9861450W - a good camping spot, so I stayed (it was a very sunny calm and reasonably warm day/night), but the place seems more sheltered than the other lake where I met the Swiss. Did not bother to build a windwall, sorry. I met 12 people all day, 7 out of which were climbers lolling about their tents, they camped both just before Laguna Sucio and at the Swiss bivy. Not sure if this is tolerated or you need a permit (or possibly climbing gear). Took me about 4 hours from Swiss bivy to Loma de las Pizzaras. Incredible views, ice kept falling from the glaciers, once even to the lake. Usually the ice is down by the time you hear the rumbling, but I was close enough to watch two falls. Also saw Condors again after a long time. A perfect day and I am out of superlatives describing it; I guess this is what makes some people crazy about Patagonia. Fitz Roy is actually the only place I knew about before coming to Chile after googling "long distance hike in south South America" 16 months earlier.

The next day I went over a small pass to the west of the lake and then down, roughly aiming for end of variant D. Around 1050 m I crossed a stream (take water from it, there wont won't be much more) and kept it to my left, graduallly distancing myself from it to maybe 50-100m. There is a way between the greenery that does not involve BBing. Then you reach the forrest, which is open and you end up on the trail.

From there to El Chalten, it is a highway (200 people met?), very easy and pretty (autumn is coming), but annoying with people. I do not like El Chalten, going on to GPT40 before the weather turns horrible. I will post gpx routes to the Facebook group.