Cambios

==Season 2022/23==

This highlight is embedded in a diverse route that traverses the semi-desert of the Patagonian Pampa, sneaks along the shore of the largest lake of Chile and provides a taster of the settler’s culture.

The substantially shorter optional route GPT33H Option 1 is in the vicinity of Rio Ibañez and can be hiked all year around.

Kilometer 0.0 to 24.3: Villa Cerro Castillo to western end of Lago Lapparent at diversion [Div @33H-24.3]

Leave Villa Cerro Castillo on the Carretera Austral and follow this paved road for 1.2 km. Don’t miss the exit shortly after the bridge over Rio Ibañez and continue on gravel roads to the eastern terminus of Lago Laparent. There are several nice spots to pitch a tent partly on the shore of lakes. The water supply along this route is not verified yet, therefore carry enough water to get at least to the lakes along this route.

Kilometer 24.3 to 45.7: Gravel road to Avellano trail head at diversion [Div @33H-45.7]

Continue on the gravel road for 21 km. You can refill your water bottles on the numerous small side streams that run down the mountains. Alternatively ask the settlers along the road for water. There are plenty of attractive camp sites along the minor road. The Avellano trail head can easily be overlooked when walking the minor road. Therefore, pay attention to the GPS when approaching the diversion at Kilometer 45.7.

Kilometer 45.7 to 54.6: Horse trail along upper Rio Avellano to diversion [Div @33H-54.6]

The frequently used horse trail is well maintained and generally easy to follow. Only on the open pastures the trail dissipates and forms again where the route enters a forest. Water is frequently available but should be filtered if taken from the larger streams that cross the pastures. The pastures along the route provide scenic camp sites.

Kilometer 54.6 to 57.1: Ascent in forest on track [RR-TL-V@33H-54.6+2.5]

The wide open upper valley provides good grazing land for cattle and is used in the summer months for this purpose. Therefore, numerous animal tracks can be spotted in this area. In this area the GPS track often indicate an approximate route only and hikers should seek their way more freely. Only where the route enters a patch of trees the route should be followed closely. Towards the end of the valley the route becomes steeper and fields of rocks require careful walking. Water from the river should be filtered or boiled before consumption. There are plenty of attractive camp sites. The last reasonable well protected spot to pitch a tent is [Camp @33H-61.2]. The next protected camp site is approx. 3 to 4 hours walking hours after the pass down in the upper valley of Rio Ventisquiero after Kilometer 64.4.

Kilometer 62.2 to 64.0: Boulder descent on track [RR-CC-A@33H-62.1+1.9]

After the pass the route descents cross country through fields of boulders into the valley of Rio Ventisquiero. The GPS track guides around cliffs and should be followed relatively closely. Some water trickles down from the mountains above. The camp [Camp @33H-63.5] provides a perfect view of the Torres de Avellano but is very wind exposed and gets flooded in heavy rain. Therefore, pitch your tent only in this location if weather conditions are perfect and after checking the weather and wind forecast for the night and the next morning. If camping here, you will hear during the night the rumbling sound of falling glacier ice. Water can be collected in the glacier lake. There is no more drinking water from the glacier lake to Rio Ventisquiero at Kilometer 64.4.

Kilometer 64.0 to 64.4: Forest bush bashing on track [RR-BB-A@33H-64.0+0.4]

When reaching the end of boulder field enter the forest and seek your way 400 m through the forest to the Rio Ventisquiero. The bush bashing though the forest is slow and demanding.

Kilometer 64.4 to 68.6: Upper valley of Rio Ventisquiero on track [RR-CC&BB-A@33H-64.4+4.2]

The upper valley of Rio Venitsquiero got filled with sediments from the surrounding mountains. Therefore, the base of this upper valley is now 100 m to 200 m wide, flat and only lightly sloped. The valley bottom is covered by bare river sediments, swamps and some pastures that get occasionally used as grazing ground for cattle. Therefore, several vague animal tracks are visible but there is no continuous main trail. In this upper valley livestock rooms freely on the riverbanks, in the river itself, though the swamps and over the pastures but also in the rather open forest on either side of the river. In the same manner hikers should freely seek their way until reaching the trail head [Trail @33H-68.6]. Water is readily available but may need to be filtered or boiled. There are also several spots for a tent in this upper valley.

Kilometer 68.6 to 69.9: Descent in forest on track [RR-TL-V@33H-68.6+1.4]

At the end of the upper valley the Rio Ventisquiero enters a tight gorge and cascades down into the valley of Rio Avellano. Just before this gorge a trail starts, leads away from the river and descents through the forest to Rio Avellano. This trail is steep in parts and occasionally obstructed by fallen trees. About 300 m after leaving the river a tent can pitched in an old corral but water must be brought from the river [Camp NO Water @33H-68.9].

Kilometer 69.9 to 85.7: Horse trail along lower Rio Avellano to [Ford (Rio Avellano) @33H-85.7]

The horse trail along Rio Avellano is frequently used and well maintained. Several pastures provide nice camp sites and water is readily available but may need to be filtered or boiled. Rio Avellano must be crossed at least once at [Ford (Rio Avellano) @33H-81.4]. When passing the two homestead farms [Settler (Maria & Julio) @33H-76.9] and [Settler (Luis Diaz) @33H-85.2] be a kind guest and salute the owners of the land that you are crossing. If you visit Luis Diaz you will need to cross Rio Avellano two more times. In case Rio Avellano can not be forded on foot you may these settlers for help to cross the river on horseback.

Kilometer 85.7 to 98.7: Minor road along Rio Avellano to Puerto Avelleno to diversion [Div @33H-98.7]

Years ago, a mining company researched the lower valley of Rio Avellano for precious metals and build a minor road to facilitate this investigation. Luckily, the research did not result in the opening of mine, but the minor road remains in use. The road terminates at Puerto Avellano on the shore of Lago General Carrera. Water and camp sites can be found regularly on this route.

Kilometer 98.7 to 118.6: Horse trail along Lago General Carrera on track [RR-TL-V@33H-98.7+19.9]

The settlers in the valley of Rio Avellano get to their outposts either by ferry or on horseback. This horse trail next to Lago General Carrera is also occasionally used to move animals between the valley of Rio Avellano and Levicán. Walking this horse trail means quite some pointless ups and downs (“PUDs”) due to the very steep and rocky terrain. Occasionally streams cross the path and provide drinking water to refill bottles every hour or two. This steep terrain and the dense semi-desert vegetation makes it difficult to find a suitable camp site. The two best spots to pitch a tent are documented [Camp @33H-114.5] and [Camp @33H-116.9].

Kilometer 118.6 to 131.4: Minor road from Lago General Carrera to Levicán to diversion [Div Levican @33H-131.4]

Outside of the recommended travel period or in poor weather hikers should consider taking the substantially shorter and less exposed Option 1.

This route is one of the remaining fragments of the Sendero de Chile trail project. Should you see “''Prohibido entrar''” signs (“Do not enter”) on a gate then don´t get discouraged to continue. These signs refer most likely to cars and not to hikers. The northern third of this optional route is mostly on trails while the remaining part follows minor roads. Hikers that walked this route described it as easy walking and scenic. Hitchhiking is possible and promising.

The regular route via [Pass 1310m @33H-62.2] is very exposed. In bad weather hikers should consider taking Option 2 which is a well maintained trail in the less exposed valley of Río Avellano.

The Torres de Avellano Bypass requires about one dozen river crossings. By taking this bypass hikers miss the highlight of this section but in poor weather the Torres de Avellano are anyway covered in clouds and not visible.

This optional route represents the Carretera Austral between Villa Cerro Castillo and Puerto Tranquilo. Walking the Carrera Austral is not suggest but hikers that opt to walk Option 4,5 and/or 6 should take a bus that travels the Carretera Austral. This optional route is also the closest land route next to the packrafting option on the upper Rio Ibañez ([[GPT32]] Option 6), Rio Murta ([[#GPT33H Option 10 Río Murta|GPT33H Option 10]]) and Lago General Carrera ([[#GPT33H Option 11 Lago General Carrera Oeste|GPT33H Option 11]]).

This fully verified route is a combination of minor roads, trails and cross country routes in the vicinity of Lago General Carrera that connects Bahia Murta via Puerto Sanchez and Puerto Cristales with Puerto Avellano. It is of interest for hikers that partly travel the Carretera Austral by bus and wish to explore the Valle Miller and the Valle Jaramillo to explore the little known western side of the Torres de Avellano.

For more information see the Wikiexplora Article:

[[Puerto Cristal]]

The Valle Miller to the west of the Torres de Avellano is a death-end valley without a suitable hiking connection to the adjacent valleys. Therefore, this option is of interest for hikers that wish to explore the scenic Cordillera de Avellano without an ambitious long-distance goal.

[[Estero Jaramillo]]

This option is of interest for hikers that wish to explore an undocumented route that climbs up high up into treeless rocky terrain. The steep and long ascent will most likely require some demanding route finding and clambering what will not appeal to all hikers.

The settlers in Valle Avellano and the residents of Levicán described this route that traverses the altiplano and connects these two homesteads. This cross country routes climbs steep up from Río Avellano, reaches an altitude of 2170 m and then descends gradually towards Levicán. This route through barren terrain grants impressive views over Lago General Carrera and the surrounding mountains. But the elevated and exposed terrain makes this a “good weather only route”. Locals warned that strong wind, low clouds and snowstorms can transform this area into a disorienting and hostile place even in mid summer. There seems no drinking water on the altiplano (apart from remaining snow) and the satellite images do not indicate suitable wind protected camp sites in the elevated area. This route is not yet investigated by hikers and recorded by GPS.

Hikers that are appealed by clambering through elevated exposed terrain might enjoy this shorter but not necessarily faster investigation route.

The settlers in Valle Avellano confirmed that this route has been used occasionally but no GPS record or detailed description is available. The character of this route is similar to the above described Option 6 but Option 7 might require in addition some bush-bashing.

[[Mirador Este de las Torres de Avellano]]

This option is of interest for hikers that partly bus the Carretera Austral and wish to investigate routes. The Valley of Rio Resbalín connects Bahia Murta with the valley of Rio Avellano. This only partly verified optional route is approximately 20 km long and the shortest access to the Torres de Avellano from the Carretera Austral.

Till around 2010 the settlers of Bahia Murta used this trail to drive animals to the summer pastures in the Cordillera Avellano. But a landslide halfway on this route made this traverse unsuitable for animals. Now the center part of this route is unmaintained and difficult to follow. This makes it preferable to investigate this route from Bahia Murta and not from Rio Avellano. Therefore, hikers that wish to explore this option should take a bus that travels the Carretera Austral (See [[GPT33H]]) and leave the bus at the Bahia Murta junction. Hikers should carry a machete and be prepared that it may take up to two days to reach the Regular Route at [Puesto @33H-53.0]. If the now unmaintained trail turns out impassable than hikers can backtrack to Bahia Murta, resupply in this village and:

Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka

*26/02/2023 - 02/03/2023 / RR SOBO with emergency exit on a boat on Lago General Carrera / Louis, Rémi & Noé :

Day 5 - Lago General Carrera - 30km - +700m/-1000m As we were a bit late, we decided to walk directly to the lake. We forded the Rio in order to be south of it and we found the horse trail, it was easier then ! We crossed the Rio a last time @km81.2, still manageable with the rain but a bit hard (water until the hips, we are 1m80 tall) with a strong current. Then, the minor road. We didn't leave it until the lake. A bit of ups and downs but the road is nice so it is fast. Here, at the lake. There is mobile coverage and so we contacted numeros given on the PDF on WhatsApp to find a boat to bring us back to civilisation. With the third bag to carry, it was too hard for us to keep hiking. I let you the contact of Jairo, that can bring you back to Puerto Tranquilo... for 400.000 CLP... we didn't had the choice as the settler living just in front of the lake wasn’t there. Jairo : +56 9 6633 9507 He transported us the next day.

*2023-Feb-21-27 / NOBO / RR + Option 3B / Ondrej and Bara / Puerto Ibanez - Vila Cerro Castillo / 6.5 days

We also met Anna and Christopher going the opposite direction - really great to meet fellow hikers!

*2023-Feb-20-24 / NOBO / RR shortend on the road sections / Zohar / Road to Levicán - Carterra Austeral / 5 days

I don't advise doing the section in 5 days thay where long, big days, and it is better to enjoy the surroundings. if the weather was better, I would have taken 7 days. This section is beautiful and highly recommended

* 20.02. - 24.02.23 / Anna & Christopher / SOBO, Villa Cerro Castillo - Puerto Ibáñez

On the final day we walked to the bus station (6 pm) and took the ferry to Chile Chico the same day (8 pm). This section was great :)

*11-18 February 2023 / Maks&Gabi / SOBO / RR, 33H-E, 33H-H ( hichhiking from km136 to Puerto Ibanez)

We hitchhiked from km 136 to Puerto Ibanez. During the weekend there is only one ferry a day (Saturday morning and Sunday evening).

*8 to 13 of February 2023 / Will / SOBO from Laguna Verde / 6 data

A small cut on my ankle ended up getting infected, I'm now in town out of commission with a ton of swelling. Should have been more careful!

*Feb 12 Direct Route SOBO 1 day Frank

-In the BB/CC river valley of Rio avellano walk on the north shore of the river rather than going to the south. The forest is mostly easily passable or can hop out to the river valley to walk more freely. The south side of the river is calf/ knee high swampy bush bashing which leads to very cold feet and frustration.

-keep eyes peeled for humels! We spotted a male humel on the bushbash/cross country section and had the most amazing sighting!

*22 to 26 of January 2023 / Véronica / GPT33H RR SOBO / via GPT33H-03B / 4.5 days

I got to the minor road from Levican (waypoint at 130.4) at 7:40 a.m. on a Thursday. There is a little bus shelter there to protect from the wind. It was very cold and windy when I got there, and I waited until almost noon, hoping to hitch a ride. Not a single car passed by that whole time. So I resigned myself to the road walk, walked for about an hour in extremely windy conditions, and then a car finally came by and picked me up and drove me into Puerto Ibáñez :) Very grateful!!!

*2023 Jan / Yannic & Mirjam / Northbound