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→Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions
==Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions==
* 2021 Nov-28-30, SOBO, RR, Kris&Stiina
We started from Agua Buena around noon and tried to follow Franks suggestion, but after a few hundred meters where the road turns left we encountered a gate with four angry dogs behind it, otherwise the gate would be climbable.
We turned back and from the main road entered an open gate to a cherry farm in hopes to find a different route to meet the RR. There we met a nice old lady Victoria, very talkative she invited us in for a cold drink and said that through her farm it’s unfortunately impossible to pass through because of the bushes and fences, but she called her friend Pedro Jose who owns a land behind the cherry farm that we couldn’t pass earlier.
We went to meet Pedro at his house and he turned out to be a really nice guy, very friendly and spoke good English because he had lived in Finland for 10 years. He also invited us in and we discussed the route among other things. He then guided us on a ninja-path, through the back bush of his and his neighbors land. He said that that guy probably wouldn’t open the gate for us, who knows. After climbing over and under two barbed wire fences we were on the route.
Jose Pedro told us about a better faster route to get to Las Peñas but we opted for following the RR which was a big mistake. The first few km were fine but then it turned into a proper bush-whacky thorny adventure. Imagine one of those military training practices where people crawling in a dirt under a barbed wire, that’s how it felt at times. It was not fun and we wouldn’t recommend it to anyone.
Pedro’s recommendation was to go through the cherry/fruit farms to reach the road that is on the northern bank of Río Tinguiririca and follow that to the bridge over the river.
Pedro allowed us to share his phone number (+56 961 357 353) in case other hikers might need help getting around the fences. Just give him a call when you are in Agua Buena. He doesn’t have a car and won’t give any rides. His craft is Horsemanship.
Sign before the bridge said private property - entrance forbidden. We went anyway and didn’t meet anyone who would turn us back. There is a small shop and a bus stop at the turn where you get on to the dirt road about 5km from Las Peñas. We didn’t want to walk in a sandstorm - because of the amount of dust generated by the passing cars - and decided to hitch that part right away which was an easy hitch.
In Las Peñas there are about 5 campsites and a small shop, but they are not as good as in Agua Buena. We were lucky to arrive there on Sunday and not a day or two earlier when all the campsites are filled with party people, everyone was leaving as we arrived.
We stayed in Don Bosco campsite for 8000 pesos for two, which is a very cozy Christian campsite, with pool. We think it’s a good option in case of weekend arrival as it might be more peaceful there. By the time we arrived people were already leaving and we were the only people on the whole campsite.
At the shop(minimarket) in town there is a pizza menu poster and you can order a delicious pizza to Las Peñas which we did.
After leaving Las Peñas there is a gate in about three kilometers whch we think charges people who go to see the little laguna with waterfall a bit further up the road. When we got there the gate was closed because of the road-widening excavation works. But after explaining ourselves to a nice lady that was in charge there she let us through and didn’t ask for any fees.
The climb over the pass to the lakes was very long but plenty of shade and water on the route.
We stayed at the first lake - Laguna Fria/Guzman, very beautiful but a bit windy, some firewood can be found hidden behind the boulders close to the campsite at the end of the lake, but it was too windy for fire. We also think this was the better of the two lakes to camp at the other one was very wet all around. There was also an unmarked small lake/pond on the way to he second lake, looked more sheltered in case of really bad weather.
The downhill from the second lake was brutal, very steep and no actual trail, once the steepness eased off and trail appeared it was overgrown. Luckily our complaints were heard and a few km later we met an arriero who was doing a trail-maintenance and cutting all the bushes around the trail, after that it was pretty good. But don’t think it’s an easy walk out of the valley all downhill, it’s a roller coaster with fords until you get sick of it. Last 6km are very walkable though.
Section took us two and a half days.
Nevertheless, we missed the last bus to Curico and stayed at the Los Pinos campground in Los Queñes. 6000 per person, cold shower included, the guy working there was very nice and helpful. Town has a few shops, with limited resupply options, town also has a problem with stray dogs.
There are 5 buses a day to and from Curico first is at 7:30, last is at 18:00 cost is 1700 pesos pp. it’s about 45min drive.
It’s time to have a rest day before heading out to section 5 and 6.
For more stories of the trail, pictures, videos and in case you want to ask us anything you can find us on Instagram: @smallfootprint_bigadventures
[[Archivo:Greater Patagonian Trail (10).jpg|miniaturadeimagen|Greater Patagonian Trail, section 4]]