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→Season 2023/24
==Season 2023/24==
From 2024-02-28 to 2024-02-29 // 1,5 day // Hiking // NOBO // RR + variant D // Quentin Clavel
From Las Gaviotas (because I took the option 1 on GPT 20) I passed the Rio Gaviotas. I slept just after on a flat area. Didn't wanted to go further on that day bc it's the last waterpoint until the end of the section, moreover it was a very rainy day and I was tired about it !
The crossing of Rio was not a problem as it was clear water and without current, knee level (but the next morning, as I was there to fill my water before leaving, the level of the rio was higher bc of the big rains but still doable).
Next morning I was ready to fight the bush, even if the weather was still terrible with big rain that announced a tuff day !
All the way through the heavy rainforest, until the volcanic plateau (10km of fight approx, from PK40,21 to PK 30,53) is overgrown. But there's a trail. It's just that it's somehow hard to follow. There's some blue marks that can helps you, but the trail is abandoned since few years.
Allow a slow pace and try to stick as much as possible to this trail. Everytime it was horrible bushbashing for me was when I lost the track and I had to fight to find it again. Again worse with the rain, all the vegetation was so wet, I had the feeling to be under a cold shower for 10km !
After that it's crosscountry on the volcanic plateau, without vegetation, Landscape changed radically and was amazing. That was my first volcan on the GPT and I was so amazed !
I took the variant D to reach the summit of volcan Antillanca, it's volcanic ground so not easy as it's soft ground with lot of micro rocks. To reach the summit you'll face just before the last push to a big rocky area that you have to conturn from the right or left. I choose left, it was a slippery but imo better than the snowy area on the right.
You left the volcanic plateau, then it's an easy overgrown trail on some part, but nothing compare to the beginning of the section.
I had enough water so I've been straight and didn't stopped to pampa frutilla.
Water is an important point and at the time I was on the track, I haven't seen any from Las gaviotas to Anticura (end of the section, you can take water from Rio golgol or other stream/rivers around). Pampa frutilla is the only oasis.
The trail finish on the road as variant A wasn't possible because of the destroy bridge.
This section stop at the exact point of the entrance of the camping/cabanas that have a restaurant "Lodging $$$ {19} [83.4/364]". I stopped there and ate quite well, happy to recharge my stomach before the next big section. Nice people, wifi if needed, and cozy restaurant.
I resupplied just after, at "Tia Olivia" at Lican, point "Food, Lodging {19} [81.4/345]" but it's really in case of emergency. She's a very nice lady and has in stock Bread, cheese, big bottle of coca cola, some juices and frost empanadas that she warmup.
I was in emergency so I resupply there, but just to keep in mind it's not a minimarket or so, just a tiny tiny resupply possibility. Olivia is a charm we discussed a lot, and she even took from her personal reserve pasta and biscuits that make the next section easier in term of food !
* 2023-Jan-25 to 2024-Jan-26/ 1.5 days / RR + Option 1+3 / Matthias
The route:
Anticura - Pampa Frutilla - Antillanca (-Osorno)
The path is officially closed (in NP)
I checked in at CONAF Anticura (no entrance fees) and had to fill in a form. The ranger reported a broken bridge and therefore not to take Variant A.
From approx. km 28 there is a route marked by cairns up to the MR leading to Antillanca. It’s probably the path marked on OSM.
The MR to Antillanca (option 3) is a toll road. I could get a ride all the way down from the pass to the main road Osorno-Bariloche („Termas de Puyehue“). A bus goes to Osorno around 16:30)
Bushbashing
on (first part of) GPT20 was only minor. - I did not go down to LasGaviotas though!!!!. And it’s only for maximally 3 km, I did with shorts and T-Shirt, there is almost no bamboo, worst is (something like?) Ilex aquifolium.
Pampa Frutilla
The detour to Pampa Frutilla is absolutely worth it (and for the water also necessary): Bathing and views!
Snow
There is still considerable stretches of snow before and after the pass below vulcano Casablanca, but no problem.
Water:
Requires planning your water resources!
No water after Camp km 8.0 until Pampa Frutilla … or until some snow melt before the pass below Volcano Casablanca (around km 24/25)
*2024-Jan-29 to 2024-Jan-30 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Lilian
If for comparison, the overgrown trail(RR, the trail at west side) goes down to Lago Rupanco, the difficulty just same as the overgrown part of GPT18.
GPT20's main difficulty is finding the trail in blowdown area. GPT18's is overgrown condition and the blocking by bamboo. So GPT20 is a little more technical, because finding the way to go.
And i recommend if you go in this overgrown part, sobo is better, because going down, you stand on a high position, is much easier and more possibilities to find a better and "correct" way. When i was walking inside, sometimes i turn back and look, i find that it is hard to know what's the trail going and what is the whole area's condition and happening.
Then I think CONAF already give up the road to strawberry lake, some small trees on the road(not beside the road), is growth up to 3-6m already.
{20-A} is not walkable now, because the bridge at bridge, camp[3.9/465] is completely broken. Better take RR road walking on PR then right turn to join dirt road.
RR km3.05 : friendly locked gate, climb over it easily.
The road at here is an old road, but it is still using by CONAF, i saw car tracks on the road, also some grass pressed by cars wheels not too long time ago. Mostly it is grassy in the middle of the road, also beside the road, two track are empty and easy to walk on.
Bridge, camp[3.9/465] , no trail to here, need to step through some long grass. Bridge is broken and impossible to cross the river, it is flowing very strong and at least up to chest. But you can crawl under the broken bridge to reach the river for collecting water, it is crystal clear and cold. It is the last water spot until km .
Camp[8.0/576] : no more refuge, just left a fire ring and picnic table here. Surrounded by lot of long grass, you can camp here, if you take some time to clear out the grass, looks like can fit 1-2 tents with views of Volcán Puyehue at here. But i think your tent will be wet completely in the morning. Also CONAF vehicles returns and go back at here(reverse turning trace on grass).
Km10.4 : huge blowdown, go around it at left side, road conditions changing point, road become much overgrown and some more small blowdowns. Roads changing to single track trail. No more cars running after here. Still easy to walk and easy to follow.
Km13.6 : another huge blowdown, road conditions changing point, go around it at right side, then GAME STARTS, much much overgrown with spike leafs plants and they covers the trail blocks your walking, also lot of huge blowdowns need to climb over and jump down. You know the way to go, but much slower. Ok to walk, ok to follow. If compares with the overgrown part of GPT18, it is easier here but much tired because many blowdowns up and down, up and down, up and down.
Km14.2 : join an old road, condition is the same, just from trail becomes old road.
Km14.6-14.7 : some flat spots for camping, a wooden tripod made by some people at km14.7, maybe for cooking? Road conditions become better.
Km15.6 : camping spot can fit 2-4 tents.
Km16.2 : road conditions become much better, easy to walk, easy to follow. It is flat and wide, also good for camping too.
X[17.1/1252] : junction of RR and strawberry lake, i didn't go to find strawberry but the road to lake is in a very good condition, i can fancy i hitch to there in 5 min(of course not). No more road on RR, just trail, and the trailhead is beside a wooden board that pitch on tree at here.
{20-01} 150m : camping spot(-40.75515, -72.07800), i climb up a little for views then find this spot, can fit 2-4 tents with a fire pit.
Km17.1-17.55 : trail going down to meadow. Very overgrown trail, it is difficult for NOBO to climb up, because all the plants growing towards down side at here.
Km17.55 : a super beautiful meadow, good camping spot but no water.
Km17.65-18.0 : not overgrown but blowdowns trail. Above treeline at 1260m.
CC to the junction of RR and {20-D}, then CC on RR go around Volcán Antillanca. If you looks at valley side (NW), a trail there.
Trail starts at(-40.76299, -72.10617), not on GPX track. And it mostly stay at the same attitude going to the small pass(-40.75915, -72.12489) at km22.
It is a step trace "trail", narrow just about 1-1.5 steps wide, loose sandy, steep, but walkable, recommend going here only on good weather also after eating and your business, there is no spot to take a break until km22.
No more trail 150m before the pass, so CC climb up to the pass.
After the pass, i didn't follow GPX track, go down to the valley on my way, (-40.75959, -72.12913) -> (-40.76027, -72.13294), then cut back to CC and climbing up. There is a huge flat area that you can camp at the valley with nice views of Volcán Puyehue, but no water.
If you follow CC, mostly you'll face a super huge gap at (-40.76178, -72.13861), that you need to go down and go around. So when i was at (-40.76151, -72.13766), i decided straight climbing up 100m at the east side of gap, and there is a connection at (-40.76462, -72.13876) 1450m, you can easily crossing to other side.
Because i'm lack of water, so mostly i going much west than the GPX track, luckily i find some water spots by snow melts.
(-40.77309, -72.14007) : flowing good by a huge snow patch melts, clear and easy to collect.
(-40.77531, -72.14089) : pond, by a huge snow patch melts, you can dip bottles to collect some amazing water!
Then i just CC to the pass(-40.78259, -72.14395) at km25.85. Snows begins at 1600m, no difficulty to climb up, mostly just gentle snow slope.
(-40.78306, -72.14374) : two beautiful ponds by snow melts at the pass with clear water. I think they'll not stay too long. Also i hear water flowing here, but it is close to dark, so i didn't have enough time to find out where it is and their condition.
There is not much snow left at south side of the pass. Also too steep, so better going down by the dry loose sandy slope at first, then join snow slope again for skiing down.
Lastly i cleared a small flat spot and camped at(-40.78742, -72.14541), can fit 1 tent, some rocks around here can used for holding the tents on sandy ground. No wind protection but amazing views(and flowing water as now) at here too!
Snow ends at (-40.78785, -72.14522) RR km26.5, 1500m. Also a small stream there, flowing good with clear, fresh and cold water! Some tiny waterfall, easy to collect.
From here to the km30.3, the junction of RR and {20-03A}, mostly CC on lava fields covered by grass, sometimes have cairns, but they are too small, also lot of other lava rocks nearby, so every time i notice them already in a very close distance.
Blue pole(-40.79524, -72.18397) and a trail leads to valley.
Flat spot at (-40.79622, -72.18337), can fit 2 tents before the overgrown section.
At km30.4, overgrown section start, trail is easy to walk, easy to follow. You'll find some blue ribbon(mostly already collapsed on the ground), and red ribbon(just a few) in this section.
Km30.8 : hell of bamboo, hell is not for hikers, is for bamboo. Most of of the bamboo is dead, defeated by huge trees in the war of forest. After here, a little overgrown and some blowdowns, still easy to follow, easy to walk. If you find the trail is blocked by lot of brushes, you can go around them by stepping on the bamboo, at here, bamboo helps you.
Km31.4 : if you don't find the trail after crawling under a huge blowdown, you can walking on the huge blowdown at (-40.80555, -72.17855) to west, then rejoin a clear trail at (-40.80564, -72.17840).
Km31.8 : after the sharp turning, trail become more overgrown, but trail still there. Ok to walk, easy to follow.
Km32.5 : camping spot(-40.81356, -72.17860), beside the trail, can fit 2-3 small tents with a small log seat. Some nice hikers put a silver shiny stake there for marker. After here, trail becomes much overgrown with spike leaves plant, because here is not in the forest, no big trees covering, bushes have more sunshine for growing bigger (then block the trail). Ok to walk, ok to follow.
Water[33.2/852] : can hear water flowing at valley side, looks like need BB about 10min to the stream. I find another better spot at not far away.
Km33.25 : trail is much closer to the stream at here, so i cleared a side trail(-40.81849, -72.17287) to there. Just 1 min, flowing good with clear water, have some puddles that can dip bottles. Some more type of spike plants start growing after here.
Km33.9-34.9 : although there are still some overgrown and blowdowns, but this part becomes very smooth, keep going and going, speed up, enjoy this moment.
Km34.9 : GAME STARTS, blowdowns MAZE. Huge amounts of blowdowns blocked your way, even there have some detour or go around, new blowdowns blocks it again. So you need to find the correct trail to go, mostly is the clearest one(do you see i said "mostly"?)
Because I don't have the habit of using GPS while walking, so after i keep going and going, i found I'm on the west of GPX track, following a looks clear trail walking parallel to GPX.
If you also don't follow GPX track walking, maybe the following will help you. (I don't know GPX or my "trail" which is better, and i assume GPX is the correct one)
At (-40.83961, -72.16451), the area of GPX looks like blocked by huge amount of blowdowns, and no ways to get in or get through that area. If follow the clear "trail" going, looks like it will block by another groups of blowdowns, maybe can crawl under a tunnel?
Yes! The answer is tunnel, but not crawling under it, the trail entrance (-40.83977, -72.16443) is just beside the tunnel, at right side, in a dark area hard to notice. You can walk on it.
Then you'll on GPX track again for a while.
At (-40.84042, -72.16400), looks like no way to go, look at the valley side(right) , trail is on the sandy slope.
Then i didn't find a good way to go after sandy slope, looks like GPX drops into the stream. But i don't think walking in a stream is a good idea, so i decided climbing up to east and try to find some good place, can keep going to south.
Luckily i found a clear trail at (-40.84047, -72.16384), of course still overgrown and blowdowns, but it leads me all the way to south.
Km36.5 : a pond just beside the trail, because the trail at here is very smooth, i nearly step in the pond carelessly. Looks like you can collect water at north shore, but water looks so so.
X[36.6/419] : junction of RR and {20-02}, lot of blue ribbon at trailhead of {20-02}, does it means anything? Thorn vine starts at here to south. But i cleared all the vine that blocked the trail until km39.55. Some overgrown and some blowdowns, but easy to walk, easy to follow.
Km39.35 : trail junction, sobo go straight, nobo go left.
Km39.55 : trail comes to a tiny grassland, if you follow the clear trail going, it is NOT RR, and going west, I don't know where is it's final destination. For RR, when you come to grassland, turn left immediately, entrance(-40.86662, -72.17480) of RR is hide behind some bushes, and the trail after here becomes overgrown and narrow again, also huge amount of thorn vine...i took some time try to clear, but there are too many, so i just cleared most of them, if you walk here, be careful.
Km39.85 : trail junction, sobo go right, nobo go straight.
Ford[40.3/128] : crossing of Rio Gaviotas, a wide crossing. North shore is deeper than south side, up to knee and flowing slow, also there are some stable big rocks underwater you can step on. Easy crossing. Water looks clear and lot of fish inside, better collect water at here, the water condition in lake is not too good.
After the crossing, i didn't follow GPX track and walking on the beach.
Camping spot (-40.87321, -72.18179) on a sandy ground, with nice views of lake and fire pit.
I asked some people at Las Gaviotas, about the ferry to El Poncho, some said 12noon, some said 1pm, some said 2pm, but there is nothing until 3pm i completely give up. I spend 4 hours and wait nothing in a super nice weather day, OMG.
Luckily i find a very tiny shop selling some food, biscuits, eggs, bread, pasta, canned food, drinks, ice cream at (-40.88061, -72.17970). I don't want to go to El Poncho resupply anymore. The shop open at 3.30pm, super friendly, i love them!
Lastly a small ferry arrived here at 4.30pm after i cooked and enjoyed my food from the shop... the ferry's name is Gavoita.
==Season 2022/23==
*On Monday, Wednesday & Friday a bus goes to Puerto Poncho from Osorno main terminal at 12:30 & connects to the ferry, getting you to Las Gaviotas at 16:30.
*Ferry Las Gaviotas-Puerto Poncho :Monday 7:00 & 16:30 /Wednesday 2:30 PM/Friday 7:00 & 16:30/Sunday 15:00.
Ferry connects with a bus. Buses may go to Entre Lagos, sometimes Puerto Octay or more often to Osorno. Buses every half hour Entre Lagos-Osorno. There should be an unscheduled ferry Las Gaviotas-Puerto Buey Monday, Wednesday, Friday & Sunday at 8PM but this ferry does not connect with a bus.
*Ferry Puerto Poncho-Las Gaviotas: Monday 8:00 & 15:30 /Wednesday 15:30/Friday 8:00 & 15:30/Sunday 16:00.
No bus on days the ferry doesn`t run. Hitching is difficult, there is a gravel road all the way to Las Gaviotas but not much traffic except on weekends.
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