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* 2023-Feb-14 to 2023-Feb-17 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin & Helena
We joined 21 directly from 20 at Las Gaviotas (see our previous comment). The route to the Laguna Los Quetros is well marked with signs and its nice hiking eventhough pretty muddy for us after 3 rainy days. In the beginning it is a minor road that crosses land of local settlers and after some time its getting into the forrest which is really amazing with many ‘levels’ of vegetation. We ended the day on the official campground that is actually free because no one was there just like others mentioned. There is a fireplace and some benches, all covered. Nice beach and views, definitely one of the nicer campsites.
The following day we had only one goal which was to get close to the Lago Todos Santos and ideally arrange transfer for the next day. Again nice trail through the rain forrest. The hot springs are owned by already mentioned Rudi who needs to open them, as well as the refugio, as we found out. There were some Chileans at the time, but we just took a look and continued. There are 2 baths with hot spring water in a wooden chalet.
We continued with option A directly to the second marked settlement (Dos Cóndores - its not correct in OSM), because of previously mentioned price requested by Rudi (130k) and info from those guys at hot springs who were charged 100k, so it didn’t look like it would be possible to get below that 100k price. Spoiler - we paid that anyway 😅. At the settlement km 23.2 we didn’t get any specific answer because the father was away, bringing other tourists the next day with his boat, and his wife or son couldn’t confirm if the transfer will be possible. We stayed in their cabin for 10k CLP pp for a room, but there was no one else staying that day. There is shower with cold water only and kitchen. Camping is 5k CLP pp and they also provide food - classic dinner or breakfast, asado or bread / eggs.
We decided to go in the morning to the port, primarily to ask Esteban for the transfer. The trail is in good condition. You need to turn left before the shelters, before the port, and you will get to a house of a German family who are really kind and helpful. They speak also English. They showed us the way to Esteban through their garden, but its probably possible to get there from the other side / hill. Esteban agreed to take us the same day at 6PM, we asked him around 11AM. The price was 100k.
Another possible option for transfer over the lake - there should be boat called Elizabeth, organized by government for local residents, that leaves from the northern port km 29.9 on Friday at 9 AM. We don’t know about the other days. Rather verify with locals. We know it goes to Petrohué for sure, but with other places it depends on the demand, don’t know how it works really. But its definitely possible to get to the most frequent places. Eventhough its for residents, they don’t have problem with taking backpackers.
Contact: @martin_hanzelka @helenneka
* 2022-11-25 / Yannic & Mirjam / Southbound
We took the bus from Puerto Montt to Osorono. Unfortunately, the morning bus to Lago Rupanco was already gone. There's supposed to be another one at 4:00 p.m. we decided to take the bus to Entre Lagos and hitchhike from there - which wasn't easy. For a long time nobody gave us a ride on the Minor Road in the direction of Lago Rupanco. In the end we got some shorter rides and hiked some parts too. We stayed the first night at Camping Las Nalcas in Puerto Rico. No official camping but it is allowed to set up the tent on the private land for 4000 pesos. Mini market with simple equipment is right next door. Hike to Laguna Los Quetros was easy and well marked. Camping was free because nobody was there. The next day we went on to Lago Todos Los Santos. At S 40.98259 / W 72.16572 there is an arrow pointing to the right. Be sure to follow this to get on Optional Route A, as there is a gate on the main trail that is difficult to overcome. We stopped at Rudy's and asked about the transport. Because of the increased gas prices, he wanted 140,000 CLP for the crossing, which was too expensive for us. We walked on to Esteban and were happy that he offered us the transfer for 80,000 CLP, which we accepted. He also allowed us to camp on the beach in front of the house for free. Lago Cayutué was definitely a highlight for camping so far.