GPT09 (Volcan Antuco)

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Summary with remarks to route that are considered useful for other hikers and packrafters. Include alerts, suggestions and personal perception of attractiveness and difficulties.

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Section Log, Alerts and Suggestions

Season 2022/23

• 2023-Mar-10 to 2023-Mar-12 / 2.5 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + OH-1 / Iris, Alexis

After a rest in Trapa Trapa at Lodging, Food {09-03E} [0.3/956], we started GPT09 in the morning. The ascent following RR-TL-V {09} [57.4/50.4+9.6] is a well marked horse trail that clims slowly, perfect for a start. Then, the RR-MR-V {09} [41.8/34.9+13.3] is flat and passes through a nice valley, a bit above the river but multiple streams crosses it. Like others, we took 09-C, but had no luck with hitchhiking and ended up walking the 11km. No problem at the border control. We finally ended up camping close to -37.46277, -71.31864 (aim for the big tree, and you will find some camp spot with firepits) after a pretty long day.

On Day 2, we followed the RR and took Option 09-01 to climb the summit. We left most of our gear at the Pass {09} [16.8/2043]. It's better to follow the track for the first part, until the conic shape because it goes along a ridge and avoid pointless ups and down. Then, on the conic shape, you are on your own. We followed a trail made by a group of 8 hikers that were a bit ahead when we found it. It definitely helped as the parts without were really clambering. The views on the top and the small crater made it definitely worthwhile for us. Going down is much more easy and fun, you slide on the sand! As it was late in the season, we did not had any snow on our way but it sill took about 4h to go up (and 1 to go down). We ended up camping at Campamento Anfiteatro (-37.42427, -71.41517) pretty exhausted. The river here is really chalky but clean water is available from the ice cave.

On Day 3, we took a small detour to see the tunnel of ice (worthy!) and headed down towards Chacay. Then we tried to hitchhike until Abanico with poor luck (on a Sunday morning). Took us 4 rides, but the last one went until Antuco. As there are also limited buses on Sundays, we then did more hitchhike to Los Angeles to ressuply.

A short section but filled with great landscapes and stunning views. Plus you walk in a lava field! Definitely worth it, we really loved it!

• 2023-Jan-14 to 2023-Jan-16 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + volcan Antuco / Martial /

Combined with Section 10. Laja national Parc was reopened after fire preventive closure on 13/02. Took the bus from LA to Abanico at 4:30PM arriving late at Campamiento viejo (7000$/n) after walking cause poor hitchhiking at this hour (parc closes 17:30). Next morning much more efficient and someone droped me at the start after giving pre-order entry number to CONAF staff (was not important that my ticket was for the previous day). The ascent to Amphiteatro camping is quick and really well maintained trail. Then i strongly recommend visiting detour to the waterfall for a unique glaciar tunnel walking experience. Next CC on Antuco’s lava fields was real fun in perfect cloudy weather. Don’t miss the impressive lava bridge  ! After reaching the pass early, legs were feeling like summiting Antuco the same day so i decided to search for a high camp. Mission completed here at 2300m : -37.42532, -71.35615 with flat sand next to fresh clean water ponds from the snow. Summiting 2h after setting camp, sunset rewarded me with unique views on laguna Laja and massive Sierra Veluda. Just don’t get caught by the night or bad weather !! RR descent is sandy and hot traversing a sand deserted bareland so I strongly recommand the O9-C to avoid struggle like I did before shortening to reach the road. Had a meal from a generous family staying at the next Puesto + a hike to piedra del Indio. Then Vegas de Trapa is quick walking MR with lots of puesto and camping option so personally stoped here : -37.57620, -71.24127. Arrived in Trappa next early afternoon for sweet delights in the only shop fenced and garded by 3 dogs. Directly continued to section 10 for reaching puesto at 7.1 wich i also recommand for it’s comfy grassy camping and amable Mapuche family.

• 2023-Jan-23 to 2023-Jan-25 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + OH 9c / Maks & Gabi

Combined with Section 10. The road is nice and visible. There is no snow on the pass. At the entrance to the national park, the guards asked for permission, but when we told them that we were going to Trapa Trapa, they let us go. We slept at the camping inside the park (10000/person). We took a detour to see a waterfall by the glacier. It was about 4 km go and back. We camped right outside the national park, by the river. There were a lot of cows but none of them aggressive. We the took the optional route 9c and walked by the carabineros station.No problems there. Just explained that we are going to Trapa Trapa, without crossing the border. They checked out passports and let us go. There were no further surprises, and the road is really well maintained. Just be careful when going down to Trapa Trapa after rain. It's quite slippery. There is plenty of water along all the trail. The shop in Trapa Trapa is marked with a sign on the main road. They have some sweetest and noodles but not much more.

• 2023-Jan-21 to 2023-Jan-23 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Johana & Matouš

We really enjoyed this section. We took a bus from Los Angeles to Abanico at 3 o'clock and then hitchhiked to the end of the main road. We arrived at the CONAF control point with no one there (7 p.m.). We slept at the Lagunillas camping, which was for 10000 per person, they had beers, jugos, empanadas, tortillas..We teamed up with Gabi and Max from Poland and enjoyed their company throughout the section (hello! :⁠-⁠)). The ascent to the volcano was amazing, looked like Mordor. Near the point "Campamento Anfiteatro" there's a waterfall that ends in a snowpatch whereby it creates a cave of ice. It's amazing. You can see it from the distance. There's clean water as well, the next clean water is on the other side of the volcano in the valley. We confirm that there's no need to stay away from the carabineros anymore, they only took down our passport numbers. Then it was easy walking until after the pass. We camped at a nice spot in the forest next to the river (S 37° 40.6391' W 071°14.1985). We somehow didn't manage to find the food/lodging point, but were approached by an older lady who fed us cookies and seemed to know a lot about other hikers. There are said to be three shops in Trapa Trapa, we only found the one next to the school which had only biscuits. Continued to GPT10 straight after.

• 2023-Jan-10 to 2023-Jan-12 / 3 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Will

Combined with section 10 Nice easy section, loved crossing the fresh crunchy volcanic wasteland at the start. Everything after that was fast trail. Mild temperatures, no horse flies. I had some trouble getting back from Antuco to the trail. I got told a couple wrong times for the bus, and had no luck during my quick hitchhiking attempt. Eventually caught a bus to abanico at 2, and then two rides got me into the park. The couple driving me spoke for me at the park entrance, and I ended up having to pay 4500 for the entrance. I probably should have gotten out and talked my way through separately. I stayed at openstreetmap's amphitheater campsite night 1. Nice sheltered spot at the base of sierra velluda, soft sand. The camp/puesto markers at km 47 seem a bit out of date. There wasn't much at the puesto maker, and there was a puesto right at the campsite marker. The family at the puesto happily let me camp there.

• 2023-Jan-06 to 2023-Jan-08 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / Anna & Christopher

Antuco - Trapa Trapa We hitchhiked from Camping Rucue back to the national park. The landscape was really magnificent the first day. There was almost no snow left after the pass. After the descent walking gets tougher due to the sand and the path is partially hard to find. But after the second roadcrossing there is a lot of easy walking on dirt roads. Atfter leaving the river at around km 47, there is still accessible water in the first part of the small ascent. On the plateau there are no watersources until the descent. We carried some water and camped on the plateau, a very nice spot. Walking down to Trapa Trapa was really nice. We followed the main route. In retrospective we would have taken option 3, because it is shorter. We met a couple of locals along the way and they all greated us very nicely. Trapa Trapa was pretty empty when we arrived at around 11 am. We continued right to section 10.

• 2022-Dec-20 to 2022-Dec-23 / 4 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Véronica

combined GPT09 and GPT10 Route: CONAF waypoint - shoulder of Volcán Antuco - road through border control checkpoint - Trapa Trapa

Two days from national park to Trapa Trapa. From Antuco, I hitched back to the national park and got there around noon. Didn't get charged an entry fee, I just told the entrance staff what trail I planned to take. Nice path most of the way up the volcano, even the CC section has occasional cairns marking the way. You go along a creek as you go up, so lots of accessible water.

Lots of snow on the southeast side of the pass. Tried to go around on the right along/through the rocks, but it's mostly siltstone, very crumbly, and very steep. Got really precarious there so I backtracked to the pass and went around the snow on the left. This involved climbing an additional 150m through volcanic sand, but it felt much safer. The rest of the way down is pretty much all cross-country, couldn't really find a path, but navigation was simple. There were some water sources on the way down too, courtesy of the melting snow.

The next morning, I took Option C that goes along the dirt road. There was no one at the border control checkpoint, probably because I went through before 7 a.m.

Rest of the way to Trapa Trapa is easy, no issues whatsoever. It's nice and forested on the south side of the pass. I didn't investigate resupply or bus options in Trapa Trapa as I went straight through to GPT10.

Season 2021/22

• 2022-Mar-01 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR / Romain

- Camp {09} [47.1/1709] : I slept around 47.5, the place was calm, flat, with grass and close to the water (that was finally not usable because there was too much sand in, but you can easily find drinkable water when going down the valley), many people from the puestos came to talk as it seemed to be the end of the season, it was really pleasant. One offered me to come by him but it was late and I was too tired to move by him, I tried to meet him back the day after but I didn't find his puesto with its indications

- The valley from Puesto {09} [49.3/1820] to Puesto {09} [39.8/1558] : very pleasant, with nice people in, I really liked this place. The water in the middle isn't usable but you can find fresh drinkable water going down from the hills at some points

- There is a Puesto around {09} [37.0/1512], people were nice and asked me if I needed anything

- The way on RR-TL-V {09} just after GPT09-C end isn't easy to find, just stick to the GPS until meeting a road leading to a Puesto close to the river at the Ford on Rio de los Pinos, then it's much easy to follow

- I got an excellent bath when crossing the river close to GPT08-04 end, the water coming from one river was warm and there was enough depth

- the CC from GPT08-04 end to GPT09-02 end was beautiful but demanding because of the soil made of earth and sand, it took me more time than I thought. After having cross the river I got close to an other one with many cows next to it, following it at one point a source of clear drinkable water was running on 3-4m to reach the river

- There is a Campbase with many places cleaned to set up tents and do campfires close to the river following up the road around Bridge {09} [23.3/1409]. It's located at the base of a huge araucaria tree, you can't miss it

- After the RH-CC-A {09} the RH-TL-V {09} is easily findable just by looking at the GPS and is marked with many cairns

- National Park : when leaving it I went to see the guards at the entrance and they were ok with that, didn't ask for any information or fee

• 2022-Feb-09 to 2022-Feb-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Veronika & Jo

Took the bus from Antuco to Abanico, got a ride by a friendly Chilean to the national park (no camping allowed). Had to pay entry to the park. Took the CC route avoiding the carabineros to camp in the meadows just beyond the park (S 37° 27.927', W 07). There was a spring emptying in the meadows there. Finished after a long hiking day at Elvira's "lodging, food". Very friendly family, took us in even after 21:00. Understandably there was no goat stew, but we also only payed half price (20.000). Great homemade bread in the morning though :) Continued to GPT10 immediately after.

In the first morning when breaking down camp, we were greeted by two carabineros on horseback, who may have been surprised at the sight of our tent out of sight next to a sand slope. They asked who we were, where we're from and where we're going too, and didn't mind us camping there. No questions about the border with Argentina after. I guess there's no need to stay away from the carabineros here any longer.

• 2022-Jan-21 / 3 days / Hiking / NOBO / RR + Antuco summit / Molly and Melissa

In Trapa Trapa, we stayed at the house marked "lodging, food". They charge 20,000 per person for a room, dinner and breakfast. There's also the option to take a bath in their inflatable swimming pool with shampoo, and they sell some honey. We were served cazuela and loads of sopaipillas for dinner. Right next to them in a little red house behind a black gate there is a minishop, which according to them is the biggest in Trapa Trapa. They had pasta, rice, tuna, sodas, chocolate covered nuts, matches, toilet paper. They were open Saturday when we were there.

The path up from Trapa Trapa starts next to the river. Nice path all the way, that transitions to a long gravel road, very easy to follow and many little streams. We camped at the beginning of the next valley at the waypoint "ford". The second to last puesto, on the right hand, belongs to Felizario whose family has the lodging option in Trapa Trapa. He is open to people camping nearby.

The cc section is easy navigation-wise, but the sand is tough to walk in, and it is very exposed. There's little water apart from the fords, but enough. The water coming down from the valley next to Volcan Antuco is very chalky though, and at the waypoint "camp" the stream is all dried up. Further in the valley the water is fine, and it might be possible to find a campsite just before leaving the stream on the optional route. The building at the "police" waypoint is abandoned. We ended up camping by the carabineros at the "boarder control" waypoint. While walking on the primary road we were stopped by a boarder control car who wanted to see our passports and pase de movilidad (covid-19) and hear about our route. There were no problems with that. He was very convinced we couldn't cross to Abanico through the pass on the regular route because there wasn't a trail on the other side, but he let us try. Absolutely no snow in the pass on Volcán Antuco's shoulder - apparently it's a very low snow year

Volcán Antuco summit: We followed the route up, it leads along the ridge to avoid the very strong stream in the valley. This part is not too difficult. The summit itself is very hard, though. It's very steep through loose, big lava rocks that slide everywhere. Tough and a little dangerous. On the other side, the terrain is made of the same kind of rocks for over half of the descent, which makes for a very slow going. Maybe there is a nicer path under the ski lifts, we found one almost in the end. Definitely not worth it for everyone. The place marked "restaurant, lodging" was closed - apparently they are open only during the ski season. Not too difficult to hitch from there if not too late

Season 2019/20

• 2020-Jan-10 / 2 days / Hiking / SOBO / Ian Hikes

Overview: This section has you cross over a volcanic lava field and over a pass at first and then follows trails south thru and area with many puestos and ranches. The first part of this section involves some route finding and cross country while the second half follows well established dirt roads and dirt trails thru grass Valley.

Difficulties: WARNING: Huge snow field at the top of the pass that is untraversable. It is very steep and must be avoided if not yet melted. Must go around so please be safe. My biggest difficult was the sections across the lava rocks. My shoes were almost destroyed by this point and the sharp, jagged and uneven surface of the lava rock caused so much pain in my feet and completely took out what ever life was left in my trail runners. Also, lots of route finding and cross country in this area.

Highlights: Amazing mountain pass with many views of waterfalls. Glaciers.

Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions at ultratrailca@gmail.com

• 2020-Jan-22 / 4 days (GPT9 + GPT19) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martin

Combined sections 9 & 10. 4 days. Sierra Velluda and Antuco Volcanoe were amazing. In Trapa Trapa the two small shops were out of stock, so we couldn't buy anything. Pehuenche settlers in "veranadas" were really welcoming and friendly to us. We asked anyway for permission to camp close to their settlements. We were invited by familia Crespo Manquepi for tortillas, tea and some other food and stayed there for a few hours. They are welcome to recieve gpt hikers and in the future sell some food and lodging. Really kind family. Just before the last big climb in section 10. No water for a long stretch after it. Recomend the detour to Laguna Liay, amazing. Resupplied in Ralco.

• 2020-Jan-22 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR (mostly) / Frank

2 days & continued to GPT10 on 2nd day. There is at least one place to stay in Abanico & as you go on the road past Abanico towards the park there are a few cabins & one campsite. In the park @ small lake 2K before Conaf1 there is a campsite with cabins. You pay 4000CLP entry @ Conaf but I went in before 8AM, no one there. At the pass, around 2050M on the shoulder of Antuco, I was able to slide down the lowest part of the snowfield. Northbound or earlier in the season you may need to go around it. Virtually no shade on this route. 3 small shops in Trapa Trapa. Last one, Provisiones Bety, has a rest area, she sometimes has bread.

Went on OH-PR-V@09-B-#002, talked to Carabineros @ Border Control & told them I would stay in Chile & continue to Trapa Trapa. They were OK with that & didn't ask to see my passport, so I would say there is no need to divert around the border post any more.

• 2020-Jan-15 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Maddie & Tom

Easy hitch from Abanico to the start of the National Park (~10km into the section). The CONAF station at the park entrance took us longer than expected to pass through and explain what we were doing (they appeared to be unsure as to whether we were crossing the border into Argentina or not). However after explaining our route to them they let us pass without paying the entrance fee to the national park. The cross country sections were easy to navigate and overall the trail was of good quality.

• 2020-Jan-10 / 2.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Martina & Ivo

We passed the big snowfield at the right side through the rocks, as Matus suggested. It was steep but ok and definitively the shorter way around the snow. Nothing to add to the previous comments. In Trapa Trapa we continued straight to Section 10.

• 2020-Jan-04 / 3.5 days (GPT9 + GPT10) / Hiking / SOBO / RR / Matus & Anna

GPT09 and GPT10 Season section log. We combined these two sections. Trail in both section is in good condition. There is snowfield in first pass as was mentioned. We went left, but it would be worth to check is it's possible to go through rocks on the right as it seems much shorter. Water is not marked on a map but there is a stream before the pass. Resuply in Trapa Trapa is very limited. They had few tunas, other caned fish, some pasta, flour, cola, crisps... We didn't check for accomodation. We stayed in a paid campsite at Laguna el Barco for 5000 both. Around 8 there was a woman selling bread and sweet pastry, but mind that it was weekend. Resuply in Guallali again very limited. They have tunas, caned fish, pasta, oil, crackers and bit more. We are staying in a house next to the shop.

Resupply and Accommodation

Resupply and Accommodation in nearby Towns

• Antuco

Many smaller supermarkets, which have most things - easy enough to resupply here. One of the two ferreterías has gas (the one furthest from Abanico). Many accommodation options and some restaurants. There is an ATM at the town square which even gives some smaller notes

Also panaderias (one selling good sopaipillas for $300 if you haven't tried yet), restaurants but also food truck, brewery

• Abanico

At least one shop. A pizzeria Bus to Antuco/Los Angeles

• Trapa Trapa

3 shops but they are all small. They all have biscuits & soft drinks. First one has ice cream & flour. Second one has pasta, matches, chocolate, canned fish. Third one ( Provisiones Bety) sometimes has bread.

Accomodation in a small room at the waypoint "lodging, food" - 20,000 pesos for dinner, breakfast and accommodation.

Bus to Ralco

• Cabañas

Cottages and Campsite $ of the Natural Park around 1-2km going in direction of the entrance from the GPT, swimming pool and places to rest, seems cosy, I don't know the price as I didn't camp there but it seemed to be open. You can find it on the classic map. The website of the place : https://www.parqueantuco.cl/

Transport to and from Route

Bus from Los Angeles to Antuco about once an hour in daytime. A few of them continue to Abanico or you can hitch fairly easily.

Updated January 2022: Bus from Trapa Trapa to Ralco at 6 and 18 every day including weekends

- Many people going and coming from the National Park, it hadn't been easy to hitchhike to reach Antuco but it worked

- Bus from Antuco to Santiago - Terminal Sur leaving at 21:30 and arriving at 6:30

Company : Nilahue

$26.300 for semi-cama

Commentaries : "cheap" company, no USB-plugs, not much space for the legs, the bus stop is at the entrance of Antuco coming from the Andes, it's a shelter made of bricks just next to a food truck selling fries and hamburgers

Permits, Entry Fees and Right-of-Way Issues

This is the only place where it is strongly recommended to sneak around a police station. This recommendation applies in particular to all non-Chileans going southbound. The reason: The forward border control Pichachen is located about 20 km before the actual border. And only here the regional superiors of the PDI (Policia de Investigation) came up with the silly rule that everyone that passes the border control post towards Argentina gets stamped out of the country regardless if he leaves Chile or not. They simply ignore the fact that a few kilometers down the main road at Piedra del Indio long before reaching Argentina a horse trail diverts towards the next village in Chile called Trapa Trapa. Should you get an exit stamp into your passport but continue to hike in Chile you will be an illegal alien without a valid tourist visa. This may not instantly cause you a problem but the next time you want to leave Chile orderly i.e. from an airport the immigration system will show that you illegally in Chile and the police will assume that you trespassed into Chile. And that’s taken pretty serious. Forget about your flight and your further travel plans. Every hikers that passed this border control got into some kind of trouble and caused these officers a headache. Some hikers could convince them after long discussions to pass without an exit stamp. Some hikers got and exit stamp and run into problems later. Some hikers pretended to walk back and took a partly overgrown route to walk around the border control. When we hiked this section in January 2014 I got unasked an exit stamp while they “just checked my documents” but luckily after a long talk I could convince them to give me a new entry stamp. You can’t blame these poor officials at the border control for this situation; they understand these occasional hikers but their regional superiors gave them strict orders. In short: this place is a potential disaster for hikers and hikers are a disturbance for these officials. Therefore, to avoid this issue I simply rerouted the regular hiking route to bypass the border control post Pichachen. It’s easier for everyone: for the hikers and for the poor police officer that have to comply with this silly order. The re-routed track leads cross country through the normally dry lake bed of the Laguna de Las Lajas and just crosses the main road at the diversion to Trapa Trapa. Walking around the border control may be suspicious but is not illegal and saves everyone nerves and endless discussions. It actually prevents you from getting into an illegal migration status while staying in Chile. The Regular Packrafting Route anyway bypasses the border control. Luckily this is the only border control post I’m aware off where such a stupid rule is applied. In many other forward border controls you need to proactively approach the police and request your exit stamp if you plan to leave Chile. Should you just visit the area between the border control and the actual border you can normally just pass or explain your intentions.

Links to other Resources

Retired Section Article GPT09 - Volcán Antuco

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