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GPT33H (Torres de Avellano)

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Season 2022/23
==Season 2022/23==
* General Recommendation: The Torres de Avellano are an assembly of granite towers that rise 1000 m into the sky. Glaciers are nested on the flanks of these mountains and glacier lakes compose the base of this panorama. The Torres de Avellano display an epic beauty coequal to the world-famous Torres del Paine but the wild beauty of the Torres de Avellano comes without the hype and the large hordes of visitors. Therefore, hikers can enjoy this hidden treasure undisturbed and without the restrictions of an overrun and heavily regulated national park.
 
This highlight is embedded in a diverse route that traverses the semi-desert of the Patagonian Pampa, sneaks along the shore of the largest lake of Chile and provides a taster of the settler’s culture.
 
The in 2020 published Regular Route of GPT33H combines an exceptional diversity of landscapes:
 
The tree-less semi-desert of the Patagonian Pampa
Lush green forests
Wide open pastures above the tree-line
Tall mountains and granite towers
Glaciers that grind on these mountains and carved several glacier lakes
Swamps and crystal-clear rivers
Idyllic farmland with settlers that move on horseback
A huge wind-battered lake that feels like open sea
 
Despite these attractions the number of visitors remains low and the few hikers normally walk a fraction of this route only.
 
This diversity makes section GPT33H a highlight of the GPT with an Attractiveness Rating 5 of 5.
 
Some hikers might find the long gravel roads on both ends of the regular route annoying even if the traffic is insignificant. Hikers with a strong aversion to road walking should consider taking a motorized transport. Trying to hitchhike is also an option but chances to catch a ride are relatively low. Therefore, keep walking while signaling your interest to hitchhike to the occasionally passing vehicles.
The regular route incorporates 2 km of cross country walking through steep piles of boulders [RR-CC-A@33H-62.1+1.9] and around 0.4 km of bush bashing [RR-BB-A@33H-64.0+0.4]. Another 4 km [RR-CC&BB-A@33H-64.4+4.2] require a mix of cross country walking and bush bashing partly through swamps. Therefore, hikers that feel uncomfortable clambering over rocks and smashing through vegetation may opt to walk only to the pass [Pass 1310m @33H-62.2], enjoy the view of the Torres de Avellano, backtrack on the same route to diversion [Div @33H-54.6] and then follow GPT33H Option 2 which is a less demanding trail in the valley along Rio Avellano [OH-TL-V@33H-02-#001].
 
The regular route also climbs to 1300 m altitude where weather can become hostile even in summer. Therefore, the elevated and exposed part of the Regular Route should only be hiked in decent weather. GPT33H Option 2 is a lower, less exposed trail that provides a bypass around the Torres de Avellano in case of poor climatic conditions [OH-TL-V@33H-02-#001].
 
Some trails are rarely used, poorly maintained and therefore difficult to follow. In particular trail [RR-TL-V@33H-54.6+2.5] and [RR-TL-V@33H-68.6+1.4] are partly vaguely visible. Here hikers should frequently consult their GPS to not lose these trails.
 
Rio Avellano must be crossed at least once [Ford (Rio Avellano) @33H-81.4]. These fords of Rio Avellano might be difficult or unsafe at times. Therefore, good judgement and a careful selection of river crossing locations is essential. The flow rate of this glacier feed river is normally lower in the morning and on colder cloudy days. If a river crossing on foot appears unsafe i.e. after heavy rain or on hot sunny days (accelerated melting of glaciers) you may ask the settlers for help. The settlers normally ford this river on horseback.
 
The trail along the shore of Lago General Carrera is partly on the edge of steep cliffs. Hikers with vertigo (acrophobia / fear of height) will find these trail segments scary and tripping in these parts can be fatal.
 
The length of this section requires a good amount of food that makes the backpack heavy at the beginning.
 
Due to the above listed challenges the Difficulty Rating is 5 of 5.
 
The Regular Route of GPT33H was completely redrawn in 2020 to incorporate the Torres de Avellano into the GPT. Most of the new Regular Route was hiked by the founders of the GPT in February 2020 and the remaining unverified gravel roads of the Regular Route are clearly visible on satellite images. Therefore, the Regular Route can be considered verified.
 
The Regular Route is best hiked between December and March. Potential obstacles are high river levels during snowmelt till November and fresh snow in the elevated area at the Torres de Avellano starting from April or May.
 
The substantially shorter optional route GPT33H Option 1 is in the vicinity of Rio Ibañez and can be hiked all year around.
 
REGULAR HIKING ROUTE:
 
Kilometer 0.0 to 24.3: Villa Cerro Castillo to western end of Lago Lapparent at diversion [Div @33H-24.3]
 
Leave Villa Cerro Castillo on the Carretera Austral and follow this paved road for 1.2 km. Don’t miss the exit shortly after the bridge over Rio Ibañez and continue on gravel roads to the eastern terminus of Lago Laparent. There are several nice spots to pitch a tent partly on the shore of lakes. The water supply along this route is not verified yet, therefore carry enough water to get at least to the lakes along this route.
 
Kilometer 24.3 to 45.7: Gravel road to Avellano trail head at diversion [Div @33H-45.7]
 
Continue on the gravel road for 21 km. You can refill your water bottles on the numerous small side streams that run down the mountains. Alternatively ask the settlers along the road for water. There are plenty of attractive camp sites along the minor road. The Avellano trail head can easily be overlooked when walking the minor road. Therefore, pay attention to the GPS when approaching the diversion at Kilometer 45.7.
 
Kilometer 45.7 to 54.6: Horse trail along upper Rio Avellano to diversion [Div @33H-54.6]
 
The frequently used horse trail is well maintained and generally easy to follow. Only on the open pastures the trail dissipates and forms again where the route enters a forest. Water is frequently available but should be filtered if taken from the larger streams that cross the pastures. The pastures along the route provide scenic camp sites.
 
Kilometer 54.6 to 57.1: Ascent in forest on track [RR-TL-V@33H-54.6+2.5]
 
This trail section is rarely used, poorly maintained and partly not well visible. Fallen trees block the trail in numerous locations and several diversions around these obstacles complicate navigation. Hikers should consult frequently their GPS to not lose the trail in the forest. This more demanding trail ends where the route leaves the forest and enters the open valley.
 
Kilometer 57.1 to 62.2: Upper valley to Torres de Avellano outlook to [Pass 1310m @33H-62.2]
 
The wide open upper valley provides good grazing land for cattle and is used in the summer months for this purpose. Therefore, numerous animal tracks can be spotted in this area. In this area the GPS track often indicate an approximate route only and hikers should seek their way more freely. Only where the route enters a patch of trees the route should be followed closely. Towards the end of the valley the route becomes steeper and fields of rocks require careful walking. Water from the river should be filtered or boiled before consumption. There are plenty of attractive camp sites. The last reasonable well protected spot to pitch a tent is [Camp @33H-61.2]. The next protected camp site is approx. 3 to 4 hours walking hours after the pass down in the upper valley of Rio Ventisquiero after Kilometer 64.4.
 
Kilometer 62.2 to 64.0: Boulder descent on track [RR-CC-A@33H-62.1+1.9]
 
After the pass the route descents cross country through fields of boulders into the valley of Rio Ventisquiero. The GPS track guides around cliffs and should be followed relatively closely. Some water trickles down from the mountains above. The camp [Camp @33H-63.5] provides a perfect view of the Torres de Avellano but is very wind exposed and gets flooded in heavy rain. Therefore, pitch your tent only in this location if weather conditions are perfect and after checking the weather and wind forecast for the night and the next morning. If camping here, you will hear during the night the rumbling sound of falling glacier ice. Water can be collected in the glacier lake. There is no more drinking water from the glacier lake to Rio Ventisquiero at Kilometer 64.4.
 
Kilometer 64.0 to 64.4: Forest bush bashing on track [RR-BB-A@33H-64.0+0.4]
 
When reaching the end of boulder field enter the forest and seek your way 400 m through the forest to the Rio Ventisquiero. The bush bashing though the forest is slow and demanding.
 
Kilometer 64.4 to 68.6: Upper valley of Rio Ventisquiero on track [RR-CC&BB-A@33H-64.4+4.2]
 
The upper valley of Rio Venitsquiero got filled with sediments from the surrounding mountains. Therefore, the base of this upper valley is now 100 m to 200 m wide, flat and only lightly sloped. The valley bottom is covered by bare river sediments, swamps and some pastures that get occasionally used as grazing ground for cattle. Therefore, several vague animal tracks are visible but there is no continuous main trail. In this upper valley livestock rooms freely on the riverbanks, in the river itself, though the swamps and over the pastures but also in the rather open forest on either side of the river. In the same manner hikers should freely seek their way until reaching the trail head [Trail @33H-68.6]. Water is readily available but may need to be filtered or boiled. There are also several spots for a tent in this upper valley.
 
Kilometer 68.6 to 69.9: Descent in forest on track [RR-TL-V@33H-68.6+1.4]
 
At the end of the upper valley the Rio Ventisquiero enters a tight gorge and cascades down into the valley of Rio Avellano. Just before this gorge a trail starts, leads away from the river and descents through the forest to Rio Avellano. This trail is steep in parts and occasionally obstructed by fallen trees. About 300 m after leaving the river a tent can pitched in an old corral but water must be brought from the river [Camp NO Water @33H-68.9].
 
Kilometer 69.9 to 85.7: Horse trail along lower Rio Avellano to [Ford (Rio Avellano) @33H-85.7]
 
The horse trail along Rio Avellano is frequently used and well maintained. Several pastures provide nice camp sites and water is readily available but may need to be filtered or boiled. Rio Avellano must be crossed at least once at [Ford (Rio Avellano) @33H-81.4]. When passing the two homestead farms [Settler (Maria & Julio) @33H-76.9] and [Settler (Luis Diaz) @33H-85.2] be a kind guest and salute the owners of the land that you are crossing. If you visit Luis Diaz you will need to cross Rio Avellano two more times. In case Rio Avellano can not be forded on foot you may these settlers for help to cross the river on horseback.
 
Kilometer 85.7 to 98.7: Minor road along Rio Avellano to Puerto Avelleno to diversion [Div @33H-98.7]
 
Years ago, a mining company researched the lower valley of Rio Avellano for precious metals and build a minor road to facilitate this investigation. Luckily, the research did not result in the opening of mine, but the minor road remains in use. The road terminates at Puerto Avellano on the shore of Lago General Carrera. Water and camp sites can be found regularly on this route.
 
Kilometer 98.7 to 118.6: Horse trail along Lago General Carrera on track [RR-TL-V@33H-98.7+19.9]
 
The settlers in the valley of Rio Avellano get to their outposts either by ferry or on horseback. This horse trail next to Lago General Carrera is also occasionally used to move animals between the valley of Rio Avellano and Levicán. Walking this horse trail means quite some pointless ups and downs (“PUDs”) due to the very steep and rocky terrain. Occasionally streams cross the path and provide drinking water to refill bottles every hour or two. This steep terrain and the dense semi-desert vegetation makes it difficult to find a suitable camp site. The two best spots to pitch a tent are documented [Camp @33H-114.5] and [Camp @33H-116.9].
 
Kilometer 118.6 to 131.4: Minor road from Lago General Carrera to Levicán to diversion [Div Levican @33H-131.4]
 
In 2019 the minor road from Levicán was extended by 2 or 3 km and reaches now the shore of Lago General Carrera. With this extension some horse trail might become disused and overgrown in the coming years. Therefore, hikers should follow this new minor road from the shore of Lago General Carrera. This new route is not yet recorded in detail by GPS and therefore currently an investigation route. Before ascending this road refill your water bottles and bags as Lago General Carrera as this is the last reliable water supply for the next 22 km. Pastures around the settlers home provide nice camp sites but if these settlers are not at homes hikers might struggle to get water. The next reliable water supply is in the vicinity of [Bridge @33H-130.4].
 
Kilometer 131.4 to 157.5: Road from Levicán to section end in Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez
 
A wide and well maintained gravel road connects Levicán with Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez. Subsidized buses provide public transportation on the morning and the evening on Monday and Friday only. Chances to get a lift when hitchhiking are reasonably good. Water bottles can be refilled where the road gets in close vicinity of Rio Ibañez or at settlers homes. The occasional pastures along the road provide suitable camp sites.
 
OPTIONALS ROUTES:
 
GPT33H Option 1 Valle Ibañez
 
Outside of the recommended travel period or in poor weather hikers should consider taking the substantially shorter and less exposed Option 1.
 
This route is one of the remaining fragments of the Sendero de Chile trail project. Should you see “''Prohibido entrar''” signs (“Do not enter”) on a gate then don´t get discouraged to continue. These signs refer most likely to cars and not to hikers. The northern third of this optional route is mostly on trails while the remaining part follows minor roads. Hikers that walked this route described it as easy walking and scenic. Hitchhiking is possible and promising.
 
GPT33H Option 2 Torres de Avellano Bypass
 
The regular route via [Pass 1310m @33H-62.2] is very exposed. In bad weather hikers should consider taking Option 2 which is a well maintained trail in the less exposed valley of Río Avellano.
 
The Torres de Avellano Bypass requires about one dozen river crossings. By taking this bypass hikers miss the highlight of this section but in poor weather the Torres de Avellano are anyway covered in clouds and not visible.
 
GPT33H Option 3 Carretera Austral
 
This optional route represents the Carretera Austral between Villa Cerro Castillo and Puerto Tranquilo. Walking the Carrera Austral is not suggest but hikers that opt to walk Option 4,5 and/or 6 should take a bus that travels the Carretera Austral. This optional route is also the closest land route next to the packrafting option on the upper Rio Ibañez ([[GPT32]] Option 6), Rio Murta ([[#GPT33H Option 10 Río Murta|GPT33H Option 10]]) and Lago General Carrera ([[#GPT33H Option 11 Lago General Carrera Oeste|GPT33H Option 11]]).
 
GPT33H Option 4 Puerto Cristal
 
This fully verified route is a combination of minor roads, trails and cross country routes in the vicinity of Lago General Carrera that connects Bahia Murta via Puerto Sanchez and Puerto Cristales with Puerto Avellano. It is of interest for hikers that partly travel the Carretera Austral by bus and wish to explore the Valle Miller and the Valle Jaramillo to explore the little known western side of the Torres de Avellano.
 
For more information see the Wikiexplora Article:
 
[[Puerto Cristal]]
 
GPT33H Option 5 Valle Miller
 
The Valle Miller to the west of the Torres de Avellano is a death-end valley without a suitable hiking connection to the adjacent valleys. Therefore, this option is of interest for hikers that wish to explore the scenic Cordillera de Avellano without an ambitious long-distance goal.
 
For more information see the Wikiexplora Articles:
 
[[Valle Miller]]
 
[[Estero Jaramillo]]
 
GPT33H Option 6 Altiplano Este
 
This option is of interest for hikers that wish to explore an undocumented route that climbs up high up into treeless rocky terrain. The steep and long ascent will most likely require some demanding route finding and clambering what will not appeal to all hikers.
 
The settlers in Valle Avellano and the residents of Levicán described this route that traverses the altiplano and connects these two homesteads. This cross country routes climbs steep up from Río Avellano, reaches an altitude of 2170 m and then descends gradually towards Levicán. This route through barren terrain grants impressive views over Lago General Carrera and the surrounding mountains. But the elevated and exposed terrain makes this a “good weather only route”. Locals warned that strong wind, low clouds and snowstorms can transform this area into a disorienting and hostile place even in mid summer. There seems no drinking water on the altiplano (apart from remaining snow) and the satellite images do not indicate suitable wind protected camp sites in the elevated area. This route is not yet investigated by hikers and recorded by GPS.
 
GPT33H Option 7 Ruta Alto Norte
 
Hikers that are appealed by clambering through elevated exposed terrain might enjoy this shorter but not necessarily faster investigation route.
The settlers in Valle Avellano confirmed that this route has been used occasionally but no GPS record or detailed description is available. The character of this route is similar to the above described Option 6 but Option 7 might require in addition some bush-bashing.
 
A part of this route is described in the Wikiexplora Article:
 
[[Mirador Este de las Torres de Avellano]]
 
GPT33H Option 8 Valle Resbalín
 
This option is of interest for hikers that partly bus the Carretera Austral and wish to investigate routes. The Valley of Rio Resbalín connects Bahia Murta with the valley of Rio Avellano. This only partly verified optional route is approximately 20 km long and the shortest access to the Torres de Avellano from the Carretera Austral.
 
Till around 2010 the settlers of Bahia Murta used this trail to drive animals to the summer pastures in the Cordillera Avellano. But a landslide halfway on this route made this traverse unsuitable for animals. Now the center part of this route is unmaintained and difficult to follow. This makes it preferable to investigate this route from Bahia Murta and not from Rio Avellano. Therefore, hikers that wish to explore this option should take a bus that travels the Carretera Austral (See [[GPT33H]]) and leave the bus at the Bahia Murta junction. Hikers should carry a machete and be prepared that it may take up to two days to reach the Regular Route at [Puesto @33H-53.0]. If the now unmaintained trail turns out impassable than hikers can backtrack to Bahia Murta, resupply in this village and:
 
walk along the Lago General Carrera via Puerto Sanchez and Puerto Cristal to Puerto Avellano (see [[#GPT33H Option 4 Puerto Cristal|GPT33H Option 4]]) or walk into Valle Miller and Valle Jaramillo on the western side of the Torres de Avellano (see [[#GPT33H Option 5 Valle Miller|GPT33H Option 5]]).
 
*REGULAR PACKRAFTING ROUTE :
 
Kilometer 0.0 to 98.7: Same as Regular Hiking Route.
 
Packrafting Kilometer 98.7 to 131.4: Packrafting the coast of Lago General Carrera from Puerto Avellano to Levicán
 
Due to the normally strong wind and the resulting high waves packrafting Lago General Carrera is challenging and not inherently safe even if paddling close to the shore and in the predominant wind direction (from Puerto Avellano towards Levicán). This lake is infamous for suddenly starting wind, therefore don’t rely only on your observations but check the wind forecast before inflating the packraft. Only if a sufficiently long window of calm weather is predicted consider packrafting. The steep and rocky coast often inhibits exiting the lake and connecting to the trail. The 8.5 km long segment between [Lake In/Out @33H-104.6] and [Lake In/Out @33H-114.7] is without a suitable connection to the trail.
 
First 6.6 km till from [Lake In/Out @33H-98.9] to [Lake In/Out @33H-104.6]: Continuously easy lake exit and good trail access
 
Next 4.3 km till [Emergency Lake Out @33H-109.8]: No safe lake exit and no access to trail
 
At [Emergency Lake Out @33H-109.8]: Small beach for emergency lake exit but very difficult access to trail
 
Next 4.2 km till [Lake In/Out @33H-114.7]: No safe lake exit and no access to trail
 
At [Lake In/Out @33H-114.7]: Easy lake exit and good access to trail
 
Next 2.0 km till [Lake In/Out @33H-116.7]: No safe lake exit and no access to trail
 
Next 1.7 km till [Lake In/Out @33H-116.7]: Continuously easy lake exit and good access to trail
 
Next 10 km till [Lake In/Out @33H-127.7]: At least every 2 km beaches to exit lake but very difficult access to trail
 
Packrafting from Levicán to Puerto Avellano in south-western direction is not recommended due to the opposite predominant wind direction.
 
Kilometer 131.4 to 143.8: Walking from Levicán to Rio Ibañez at [River In @33H-143.8]
 
Packrafting from Levican to Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez in northern direction is not recommended due to the opposite predominant wind direction. Therefore packrafter should walk the hiking route from Levicãn to Rio Ibañez at [River In @33H-143.8]. Only when travelling from Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez to Levian packrafting might be considered on an exceptionally calm morning or evening.
 
Packrafting Kilometer 143.8 to 147.0: Packraft crossing of Rio Ibañez and walk to Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez
 
With a packraft it is normally not necessary to roadwalk 12.6 km via [Bridge @33H-148.7] and [Bridge @33H-149.5] to Puerto Ingeniero Ibañaez but Rio Ibañez can be crossed by packraft. Therefore, packrafters should consider inflating the packraft at [River In @33H-143.8] and take the 3.1 km short cut into town.
 
OPTIONAL PACKRAFTING ROUTE:
 
GPT33H Option 9 Laguna Verde
 
Packrafters that hike the section GPT33H northbound i.e. after crossing Lago General Carrera from Fachinal to Puerto Ingeniero Ibañez best terminate this section via Option 9 to use the packraft on the final 21 km to Villa Cerro Castillo. For more information see [[#Combining GPT33H with GPT32|Combining GPT33H with GPT32]].
 
GPT33H Option 10 Río Murta
 
This option is attractive for packrafters that use public transportation to cherry-pick easily accessible water routes or that plan to hike [[#GPT33H Option 4 Puerto Cristal|Option 4]], [[#GPT33H Option 5 Valle Miller|Option 5]] and [[#GPT33H Option 8 Valle Resbalín|Option 8]] or that want to packraft [[#GPT33H Option 11 Lago General Carrera Oeste|GPT33H Option 11]] along the shore of Lago General Carrera.
 
Rio Murta is a beautiful turquoise river that meanders through a wide valley and is surrounded by snow-covered peaks. The 44 km long river section from the recommended put-in till the outlet into Lago General Carrera is free of rapids and can be packrafted southbound only. The river descends gradually 70 m (elevation difference) over these 44 km what results in a moderate to fast river speed. The water volume changes substantially between seasons and depending on rain. Especially in late summer and autumn this river can be rather shallow even for a packraft resulting in ground contacts. A bigger hazard for packrafters are the dead trees in the bends where the current often accelerates. Many wide gravel banks facilitate entering and exiting the river. The nearby Carretera Austral can be easily reached in various locations
 
GPT33H Option 11 Lago General Carrera Oeste
 
Packrafters that look for a special challenge may consider paddling along the shore of Lago General Carrera. But only patient packrafters without a tight schedule may attempt this route should as the normally strong wind makes packrafting most of the time unsafe. During spring or autumn chances are better to have some days with less wind than during summer.
 
The proposed route follows the shoreline close to lake exits and in parallel to land routes to continue walking if wind impedes packrafting. Due to the predominant wind direction this route can only be paddled in westbound direction. The crossing from Puerto Tranquilo to Puerto Sanchez requires particular caution and should only be attempted on a very calm morning or evening [ OP-LK-2@33H-11-#002]. It is not advisable to packraft between [Lake In/Out @33H-11-#006] and [Lake In/Out @33H-11-#007] as the steep and particular wind exposed coast impedes exiting the lake in this 12 km long area. The advises to the [[#Regular Packrafting Route]] are equally applicable.
 
* '''2023-Mar-30 to 2023-Mar-31 / 1.5 days / Hiking / SOBO / RR + Option 1 / Martin & Helena'''
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