Cambios

==Season 2024/25==

After Agua Bueno the trail is overgrown with a lot of thorny vegetation and not a lot of fun to walk. From "El Liano alto" we hitchhiked the arround 20km to avoid walking a day on the dusty road to Sierra Buena Vista Alto. From there it is a nice (Southbound) hike over the 2 Passes. There where some big Snowfields left. Most of them you can slide down southbound.

Shortly before "Las Quenes" we met a ranger and paid 12000 each.

Camp: km30 (a bite downstream at the ford) / km44 (about 100m before ford)

Buses from San Fernando only go as far as Puente Negro on a Sunday (1,000 CLP) (2,000 CLP to Las Peñas) started walking the road but someone offered us a ride to the Las Peñas junction.

==Season 2023/24==

I hitchhiked to Las Peñas in the late afternoon, shortly after on the street to the first Laguna a young friendly local couple picks me up, we drive to the Gate at -34.7739,-70.7782 they discuss with the lady, she lets them pass for free, but the gringo has to pay 4000. Got a piece of watermelon from her, at least.

In Los Queñes (little supermarket there, enough food) I tried to take the last bus to Curicó at 18:30 (as I read here) in front of the supermarket, but it already drove off at 18:10, leaving me, waiting for this bus at a little park next to it, behind. After 1 hour of hitchhiking attemps a very friendly couple takes me to Curicó even driving me directly to my Airbnb.

Nice section, the laguna fria zone is really beautiful, with all the remaining snowpatches.

No problems with dogs or private properties.

Road hiked variant A to avoid route finding around gates in the early morning.

I go for {04-A}, resupply at Puente Negro, 3 small shops and 2 tiny shops there. (Agua Buena and Las Peñas also have some small shops, but they were all close when I was there. Maybe too early?)

The route over the hill of Aguas Buenas cannot be reached via the route marked on the map, as there is a gate in the way. Further to the west is another path, which at some point further up the hill meets up with the original path again. From there it is easy to reach the road to Las Penas.

- Water : all markers are good and even more water present - snow from km 36,4 to km 40,5

==Season 2022/23==

We hitchhiked from Agua Buena to Las Peñas. Everything fine till -34.8001 -70.7687. There is a fenced cherry plantation with incorporated RR minor road for a few hundred meters. You can walk around on the left all along the fence and you get again to RR (or maybe take the OH where the fence starts?). Nice camp at the rio at -34.8398 -70.7613 way before the pass. There is still water going up to the pass. Last we found at -34.8576 -70.7593. Puesto with gate at -34.9740 -70.7455, nobody there. Nice camp at -34.9822 -70.7442, probably crowded on weekends and holidays...straight before we got out to the bridge close to Los Queñes another gate with supposed dogs behind, you can walk around this area left side moving down to the river. You will get out directly under the big bridge. In Los Queñes we stood for 15k each at the house of a señora who lives where is the feria de artesania, coming from the cordillera turn right after the Carabinero station and follow about 50m, turn right again, last house bottom left corner near river.

First I went from Terme del Flaco over the pass to Ruta-55. It is easy trail, almost all horse trail, not CC, but in parts overgrown at knee-height with those annoying spiky things, also dusty with little rocks falling into your shoes as it has not rained since ages. In the afternoon light it was quite scenic. There is a path going from the camping ground along the hot creek (see below) and then the river for about 1 km, then there is a bridge - nicer and shorter than the official route [2024: since incorporated into GPT]. It took me about seven hours of walking to get to the other side. There is a mine there (I think for cement) with cell reception and I think some 3G service. Then no coverage until Los Quenes. During workweek, there are lots of trucks with the mine material going to a junction 1 km from Los Quenes, so getting a ride should be easy. There is also some traffic towards the border, so a ride as far as this route follows the optional GPT05 track should also be possible, but could involve an hour or more of waiting. In Los Quenes, there are two shops, the first (on the right before you get to town from the direction of the mountains) is better stocked, it had some nectarines, no cherries. On Monday, restaurants were closed (the one marked in OSM at the exit of the town does not seem to exist), not sure about accomodation. Probably possible to stock for a week for GPT05 but it was not great, worse then Coya. (I returned on Thursday and the restaurants were opened, there is a pizzeria and another restaurant but I did not eat there, the second shop now also had some nectarines).

We started in the afternoon at the property of José Pedro (see our comment from the last section) who showed us a little different way than the beginning of RR with saying the owners changed since the trail was established and it might be problematic to get on the trail through some gate? We are not sure bc we decided to follow Jose’s advices and didn’t even try to start on the RR. His way should be a little shorter and easier, its basically the same direction to the bridge as RR but more on the left side. You just aim at the highest mountain visible in that direction, half way on the hill, and always stay on a clear path - anything else got us off after all. We lost the path a few times and ended up close to the top of the hill from where we got clear view over the farms. You just need to get down and from there you actually connect to the RR. In one point you get to a natural “fence” made out of branches that goes around the farm and thats the only time when you should go into it, just for a short time.. then there is a short section through the cherry farm (sufficient hole in the fence) and after reaching one of the main gates which was opened its easy walking down the road to the bridge.. we met even some cars with workers and there were plenty of cherries everywhere in this time of the year. We crossed the bridge at night already and therefore had to camp close to the road to Las Peñas, but there are some cabanas to spend the night in.

After having a relaxing rest day at Pedro's, we set off for GPT04. Although Pedro explained the route in detail, we got confused in the terrain and ended up going into the plantation.

==Season 2021/22==

We started from Agua Buena around noon and tried to follow Franks suggestion, but after a few hundred meters where the road turns left we encountered a gate with four angry dogs behind it, otherwise the gate would be climbable.

==Season 2019/20==

I thought it would be an easy hike from Agua Buena to Las Penas. It isn't. At Agua Buena 500M from start is a fruit farm with no entry sign. No one @ the gate & it was unlocked so I went in. Met the owner & he wasn't too happy to see me but after a discussion I was allowed through. If you go 500M beyond the start in Agua Buena on main road there is a dirt road which branches right just as the main road goes left. The dirt road should come in to join RR just where you exit the fruit farm, allowing you to avoid going through the farm.

Overview: If hiking southbound this is the first section where it really starts to get green and the pine trees start to appear more frequently. The first section is dominated by dirt roads with paying campsites, cabins, puestos and other developments. Later you go over a large mountain pass with sweeping views in all direction completely above the tree line. Finally, you follow the valley into Los Quenes which in a nice little town to resupply in. The town has a small supermarket with many food options along with a few restaurants. These include pizza, sandwiches and empanadas. The plaza in the center of town also has free access to WIFI which I used while I was there.

low water levels, no snow, trails in excellent condition. ...and food and accommodation in Los Queñes :-)

We started in Las Peñas (we took Uber there from San Fernando). It took us 2 days.